CN114592364A - 一种斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，属于纺织技术领域。本发明的染整工艺包括退浆、碱煮、汽雾染色机开纤、去毛、汽雾染色机染色步骤。本发明使用低能耗的前处理、染色和后整理方法，整体降低了莱赛尔染色的用电、蒸汽和水的能耗。同时，该工艺提高了莱赛尔的整体色牢度，干摩擦达到了4‑5级，湿摩擦达到了2‑3级，符合国家标准。本发明后整理用空气洗替代砂洗，最终可以避免砂洗产生的缸差，提高面料颜色一致性。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织技术领域，尤其涉及一种斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法。
背景技术
莱赛尔纤维俗称“天丝绒”，以天然植物纤维为原料，是一种全新的纺织、服装面料，于20世纪90年代中后期在欧美兴起。它不仅具有天然纤维棉花所具有的舒适性、手感好、易染色等特点，还具有传统粘胶纤维所不具备的环保优点。
但是现有莱赛尔面料染整工艺复杂，成本高，且制备的莱赛尔纤维色牢度差，尤其是湿摩擦牢度，通常只能做到1-2级，低于国家标准。并且莱赛尔纤维大部分都是使用液流染色，后整理使用砂洗的工艺。染色和砂洗过程能耗高，用水量大。每一次用砂洗缸做砂洗工艺都会有色差，最终会造成统一批次面料产生严重缸差。
因此，提供一种能够降低莱赛尔面料制备成本的方法，且提高色牢度的方法，是目前要解决的问题。
发明内容
有鉴于此，本发明提供了一种斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，该方法具有能耗低和莱赛尔面料色牢度高的优点。
本发明斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)退浆：在温度55℃，车速60M/min的条件下，将斜纹莱赛尔面料置于含有退浆酶和渗透剂的溶液中浸轧15～20秒，然后打卷堆置8小时；
(2)碱煮：在连续平幅煮漂机60M/min车速条件下，将步骤(1)打卷堆置的面料置于含有烧碱和精炼剂的溶液中浸轧15～20秒，取出后在100℃的温度下汽蒸1～3min，浸入6格平洗槽中85℃水洗，烘干；
(3)汽雾染色机开纤：按照浴比为1:2～3将步骤(2)烘干的面料置于装有烧碱溶液的气雾染色机中，在100～105℃的温度下运行80～85min，排出液体，再用80℃的流动水洗涤20～25min；
(4)去毛：将步骤(3)处理的面料置于含有酵素酶的溶液中，50℃温度下浸泡30min，然后用80℃热水洗涤20～25min；
(5)汽雾染色机染色：将步骤(4)去毛处理的面料置于汽雾染色机中，以浴比1:2～3浸泡于水中，升温至60℃后，缓慢注入含有活性染料的染液，注料时间为30min，保温运行20min；注入元明粉溶液注料时间为30min，运行20min，60℃条件下注入纯碱，注料时间为50min，保温30min，然后在90℃的温度下皂洗20min，常温流动水洗10min，加醋酸运行5min后出缸；
(6)将步骤(5)染色后的面料在定型机中130℃烘干，置于含柔软剂的溶液中浸泡3～5秒，然后在140℃的温度下轧水空气洗10M/min。
优选的，所述面料为100％莱赛尔纱线，纺纱方式为环锭纺，纱线支数为30支，面料组织通常使用梭织的斜纹组织。
优选的，步骤(1)所述退浆酶为@-淀粉酶，渗透剂为仲烷基磺酸类复配物；所述退浆酶的浓度为8g/L，渗透剂的浓度为1g/L。
优选的，步骤(2)所述精炼剂为多碳烷基糖苷和聚乙氧基化异构醇中的一种或两种；所述烧碱的浓度为50g/L，所述精炼剂的浓度为5g/L。
优选的，步骤(3)所述烧碱的浓度为6g/L。
优选的，步骤(4)所述酵素酶的质量浓度为1.2％。
优选的，步骤(5)所述活性染料的质量浓度为6～8％，元明粉溶液的浓度为75～85g/L，纯碱的浓度为28～32g/L，醋酸的浓度为1～1.2g/L；
优选的，步骤(5)所述皂洗的具体方法为在90℃下洗20min。
优选的，步骤(6)所述柔软剂为三元共聚硅油。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下有益效果：
本发明提供了一种斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，使用低能耗的前处理、染色和后整理方法，整体降低了莱赛尔染色的用电、蒸汽和水的能耗。同时，该工艺提高了莱赛尔的整体色牢度，干摩擦达到了4-5级，湿摩擦达到了2-3级，符合国家标准。后整理用空气洗替代砂洗，最终可以避免砂洗产生的缸差，提高面料颜色一致性。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
本发明提供了一种斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，在本申请的实施例和对比例中，所述退浆酶为@-淀粉酶，渗透剂为常州金源化工仲烷基磺酸类复配物；所述柔软剂为苏州联胜化工三元共聚硅油6971；所述精炼剂为常州金源化工精炼剂88；所述煮炼酶为常州金源化工CB-98生物复合酶，其他原料均为市场购买的常规原料。
实施例
一种斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)退浆：在温度55℃，车速60M/min的条件下，将斜纹莱赛尔面料(100％莱赛尔纱线，纺纱方式为环锭纺，纱线支数为30支，面料组织通常使用梭织的斜纹组织)置于退浆酶(@-淀粉酶)的浓度为8g/L，渗透剂(常州金源化工仲烷基磺酸类复配物)的浓度为1g/L的溶液中浸轧15秒，然后打卷堆置8小时；
(2)碱煮：在连续平幅煮漂机60M/min车速条件下，将步骤(1)打卷堆置的面料置于烧碱的浓度为50g/L，精炼剂(常州金源化工精炼剂88)的浓度为5g/L的溶液中浸轧15秒，取出后在100℃的温度下汽蒸1min，浸入6格平洗槽中85℃水洗，烘干；
(3)汽雾染色机开纤：按照浴比为1:2.2将步骤(2)烘干的面料置于装有烧碱溶液(浓度为6g/L)的气雾染色机中，在100℃的温度下运行80min，排出液体，再用80℃的流动水洗涤20min；
(4)去毛：将步骤(3)处理的面料置于诺唯信酵素酶质量浓度为1.2％的溶液中，50℃温度下浸泡30min，然后用80℃热水洗涤20min；
(5)汽雾染色机染色：将步骤(4)去毛处理的面料置于汽雾染色机中，以浴比1:2.2浸泡于水中，升温至60℃后，缓慢注入含有活性染料(质量浓度为6％)的染液，注料时间为30min，保温运行20min；注入元明粉溶液(浓度为80g/L)，注料时间为30min，运行20min，60℃条件下注入纯碱(浓度为30g/L)，注料时间为50min，保温30min，然后在90℃的温度下皂洗20min，常温流动水洗10min，加醋酸(浓度为1g/L)运行5min后出缸；
(6)将步骤(5)染色后的面料在定型机中130℃烘干，置于含柔软剂的溶液中浸泡3秒，然后在140℃的温度下轧水空气洗10M/min。
采用美标4分制检验方法对本发明染整后的面料进行检测，检测结果为干摩擦牢度4-5级，湿摩擦牢度2-3级。本发明的染整工艺，水电蒸汽成本价在0.95～1元米。
对比例
(1)退浆：在温度55℃，车速60M/min的条件下，将斜纹莱赛尔面料(100％莱赛尔纱线，纺纱方式为环锭纺，纱线支数为30支，面料组织通常使用梭织的斜纹组织)置于退浆酶(@-淀粉酶)的浓度为8g/L，渗透剂(常州金源化工仲烷基磺酸类复配物)的浓度为1g/L的溶液中浸轧15秒，然后在55℃蒸箱内堆置15min后进入6格洗槽85℃水洗后烘干；
(2)冷堆：在60M/min车速，常温条件下，将步骤(1)的面料置于烧碱的浓度为10g/L，精炼剂(常州金源化工精炼剂88)的浓度为12g/L，煮炼酶(常州金源化工CB-98生物复合酶)浓度为20g/L的溶液中浸轧15秒，取出后打卷室温堆置20小时；
(3)碱蒸：连续平幅煮漂机60M/min车速条件下，面料置于烧碱20g/L，精炼剂(常州金源化工精炼剂88)5g/L的溶液中浸轧15秒，然后在100℃汽蒸1min进入6格平洗槽85℃水洗后烘干；
(4)丝光：在布铗丝光机上80M/min车速条件下，面料置于烧碱浓度为70ɡ/L的溶液中浸轧10秒，通过丝光机绷布辊反应、布铗扩幅进入10格平洗槽，85℃水洗后烘干；
(5)汽雾染色机开纤：按照浴比为1:2.2将步骤(2)烘干的面料置于装有烧碱溶液(浓度为6g/L)的气雾染色机中，在100℃的温度下运行80min，排出液体，再用80℃的流动水洗涤20min；
(6)汽雾染色机染色：将步骤(4)去毛处理的面料置于汽雾染色机中，以浴比1:2.2浸泡于水中，升温至60℃后，缓慢注入含有活性染料(质量浓度为6％)的染液，注料时间为30min，保温运行20min；注入元明粉溶液(浓度为80g/L)，注料时间为30min，运行20min，60℃条件下注入纯碱(浓度为30g/L)，注料时间为50min，保温30min，然后在90℃的温度下皂洗20min，常温流动水洗10min，加醋酸(浓度为1g/L)运行5min后出缸；
(7)去毛：将步骤(3)处理的面料置于诺唯信酵素酶质量浓度为1.2％的溶液中，50℃温度下浸泡30min，然后用80℃热水洗涤20min；
(8)将步骤(5)染色后的面料在定型机中130℃烘干，置于含柔软剂的溶液中浸泡3秒，然后在140℃的温度下轧水空气洗10M/min。
采用美标4分制检验方法对本发明染整后的面料进行检测，检测结果为干摩擦牢度4级，湿摩擦牢度1-2级。本发明的染整工艺，水电蒸汽成本价在1.5～1.6元米。
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。
Claims (8)
1.一种斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
(1)退浆：在温度55℃，车速60M/min的条件下，将斜纹莱赛尔面料置于含有退浆酶和渗透剂的溶液中浸轧15～20秒，然后打卷堆置8小时；
(2)碱煮：在连续平幅煮漂机60M/min车速条件下，将步骤(1)打卷堆置的面料置于含有烧碱和精炼剂的溶液中浸轧15～20秒，取出后在100℃的温度下汽蒸1～3min，浸入6格平洗槽中85℃水洗，烘干；
(3)汽雾染色机开纤：按照浴比为1:2～3将步骤(2)烘干的面料置于装有烧碱溶液的气雾染色机中，在100～105℃的温度下运行80～85min，排出液体，再用80℃的流动水洗涤20～25min；
(4)去毛：将步骤(3)处理的面料置于含有酵素酶的溶液中，50℃温度下浸泡30min，然后用80℃热水洗涤20～25min；
(5)汽雾染色机染色：将步骤(4)去毛处理的面料置于汽雾染色机中，以浴比1:2～3浸泡于水中，升温至60℃后，缓慢注入含有活性染料的染液，注料时间为30min，保温运行20min；注入元明粉溶液注料时间为30min，运行20min，60℃条件下注入纯碱，注料时间为50min，保温30min，然后在90℃的温度下皂洗20min，常温流动水洗10min，加醋酸运行5min后出缸；
(6)将步骤(5)染色后的面料在定型机中130℃烘干，置于含柔软剂的溶液中浸泡3～5秒，然后在140℃的温度下轧水空气洗10M/min。
2.根据权利要求1所述的斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，其特征在于，所述面料为100％莱赛尔纱线，纺纱方式为环锭纺，纱线支数为30支，面料组织通常使用梭织的斜纹组织。
3.根据权利要求1所述的斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，其特征在于，步骤(1)所述退浆酶为@-淀粉酶，渗透剂为仲烷基磺酸类复配物；所述退浆酶的浓度为8g/L，渗透剂的浓度为1g/L。
4.根据权利要求1所述的斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，其特征在于，步骤(2)所述精炼剂为多碳烷基糖苷和聚乙氧基化异构醇中的一种或两种；所述烧碱的浓度为50g/L，所述精炼剂的浓度为5g/L。
5.根据权利要求1所述的斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，其特征在于，步骤(3)所述烧碱的浓度为6g/L。
6.根据权利要求1所述的斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，其特征在于，步骤(4)所述酵素酶的质量浓度为1.2％。
7.根据权利要求1所述的斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，其特征在于，步骤(5)所述活性染料的质量浓度为6～8％，元明粉溶液的浓度为75～85g/L，纯碱的浓度为28～32g/L，醋酸的浓度为1～1.2g/L。
8.根据权利要求1所述的斜纹莱赛尔面料的染整方法，其特征在于，步骤(6)所述柔软剂为三元共聚硅油。
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