CN114381935B - 一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎及其加工工艺 - Google Patents

一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎及其加工工艺 Download PDF

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CN114381935B
CN114381935B CN202210156783.7A CN202210156783A CN114381935B CN 114381935 B CN114381935 B CN 114381935B CN 202210156783 A CN202210156783 A CN 202210156783A CN 114381935 B CN114381935 B CN 114381935B
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余小红
邢媛媛
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Zhejiang Jiaxin Jinsanta Silk Clothing Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎及其加工工艺，属于纺织技术领域，旨在提供一种拉伸比为1:1.7‑2.2的真丝高弹面料且用于生产该面料的加工工艺，该素绉缎为拉伸比为1:1.7‑2.2的真丝高弹面料，面料的组织结构为缎纹组织结构，每个缎纹组织结构由10根经纱和10根纬纱交织而成，且该经纱10根、纬纱10根为一个纱线排列组织循环；工艺流程为：面料织厂完成织造→根据需求计算面料所需的拉伸倍率→脱胶练整→染色或者印花→检验→包装。

Description

一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎及其加工工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织领域，更具体地说，它涉及一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎及其加工工艺。
背景技术
真丝的织造行业和现有市场上，生产工厂织造的真丝弹力素绉缎的生产流程为：面料织厂完成坯料织造→脱胶练整→染色或者印花→检验→包装→出货，现有的生产模式中，对于面料上述生产加工的每个生产环节均较为复杂，且每个环节由不同独立的公司或者厂家完成，各个生产环节都是独立、分开的，且这种模式于市面上成为既定、固化且统一的生产加工模式，通过该流程加工完成的面料，其弹力的拉升度只有1:1.35-1.4，在做一些特殊功能产品，比如真丝文胸、运动类产品等，不能满足拉伸要求。
发明内容
针对现有技术存在的不足，本发明的目的在于提供一种拉伸比为1:1.7-2.2的真丝高弹面料且用于生产该面料的加工工艺。
为实现上述目的，本发明提供了如下技术方案：
一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎，该素绉缎为拉伸比为1:1.7-2.2的真丝高弹面料。
进一步的，面料的组织结构为缎纹组织结构，每个缎纹组织结构由10根经纱和10根纬纱交织而成，且该经纱10根、纬纱10根为一个纱线排列组织循环；
进一步的，经纱均为1/20/22D的6A级桑蚕丝；
进一步的，纬纱由A、B两种构成，A种纱线有5根，且规格均为2股20/22D桑蚕丝加1股20D氨纶加S捻向中捻度的包覆弹力丝；B种纱线有5根，且规格为2股20/22D桑蚕丝加1股20D氨纶加Z捻向中捻度的包覆弹力丝。
进一步的，面料组织结构为从左往右的第一根、第六根经组织点为经纱一上四下一上四下；第二根、第七根经组织点为经纱二下一上二下二下一上二下；第三根、第八根经组织点为经纱四下一上四下一上；第四根、第九根经组织点为经纱一下一上三下一下一上三下；第五根、第十根经组织点为经纱三下一上一下三下一上一下。
通过采用上述技术方案，本发明的有益效果为：本发明采用桑蚕丝、桑蚕丝+氨纶包覆弹力丝进行制造，汲取了这二种材料的优点，且进行脱胶练整后在氨纶弹力丝的作用下，面料产生自然的皱纹纹理，配合两种不同捻向的纬纱织造出手感柔滑、组织密实且富有高弹性的面料，且经向具有自然光泽，纬向高弹性穿着舒适度高。
由于该面料的组织结构为缎纹组织，所以织造过程中采用相对较为简单的一顺穿法，降低了纺织工的穿棕工作复杂程度，穿棕后可基本实现自动化生产，坯布下机后采用机械化练整，降低了人工成本，提高了生产效率，且降低了生产成本。
一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎的加工工艺，该工艺流程为：面料织厂完成织造→根据需求计算面料所需的拉伸倍率→脱胶练整→定型→染色或者印花→检验→包装。
进一步的，工艺流程包括步骤：
S1、采用桑蚕丝、桑蚕丝+氨纶包覆弹力丝作为原料，采用意大利进口R9500剑杆织机进行织造成坯布；
S2、采用剑杆织机进行织造时，经纱穿棕采用10片棕一顺穿法；
S3、采用剑杆织机进行织造的过程中，该面料的上机张力为18±2g；
S4、将坯绸进行脱胶练整，采用的压力为3～7公斤蒸汽压；
S5、坯绸脱胶练整预缩后通过定型机进行定型，定型温度为140～175℃，速度为每分钟7～13米。
进一步的，脱胶练整包括脱胶煮炼和漂白，
脱胶练整为：将织好的面料置于温度为90℃的煮炼液中，浴比为1：20，处理2h；煮炼液的pH值为10且由纯碱和助剂组成，组分为：纯碱4g/L、肥皂8g/L、磷酸三钠0 .5%owf、净洗剂LS0 .4g/L、分散剂WA0.2ml/L、浓度40°Bé的硅酸钠2ml/L、渗透剂JFC0 .8ml/L、浓度85%的保险粉0 .7g/L；
漂白为将煮炼好的面料置于温度为80℃的漂白液中，浴比1：20，处理80min；漂白液的pH值为9，组分为：浓度30%的双氧水4g/L、浓度40°Bé的硅酸钠2ml/L、匀染剂O.2g/L。
通过采用上述技术方案，本发明的有益效果为：
本发明通过重新调整面料的工艺流程，基本不减少（或者微减少）真丝的含量，从需求出发，成功开发拉伸比从1:1.7到2.2的真丝高弹面料；
在满足定型机可以做的幅宽的前提下，可以根据客户需要的拉伸比要求来定型面料幅宽尺寸，满足面料的功能。
具体实施方式
本发明提供了如下技术方案：
一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎，该素绉缎为拉伸比为1:1.7-2.2的真丝高弹面料，面料的组织结构为缎纹组织结构，每个缎纹组织结构由10根经纱和10根纬纱交织而成，且该经纱10根、纬纱10根为一个纱线排列组织循环；经纱均为1/20/22D的6A级桑蚕丝；
纬纱由A、B两种构成，A种纱线有5根，且规格均为2股20/22D桑蚕丝加1股20D氨纶加S捻向中捻度的包覆弹力丝；B种纱线有5根，且规格为2股20/22D桑蚕丝加1股20D氨纶加Z捻向中捻度的包覆弹力丝。
面料组织结构为从左往右的第一根、第六根经组织点为经纱一上四下一上四下；第二根、第七根经组织点为经纱二下一上二下二下一上二下；第三根、第八根经组织点为经纱四下一上四下一上；第四根、第九根经组织点为经纱一下一上三下一下一上三下；第五根、第十根经组织点为经纱三下一上一下三下一上一下。
本发明采用桑蚕丝、桑蚕丝+氨纶包覆弹力丝进行制造，汲取了这二种材料的优点，且进行脱胶练整后在氨纶弹力丝的作用下，面料产生自然的皱纹纹理，配合两种不同捻向的纬纱织造出手感柔滑、组织密实且富有高弹性的面料，且经向具有自然光泽，纬向高弹性穿着舒适度高。
一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎的加工工艺，该工艺流程为：面料织厂完成织造→根据需求计算面料所需的拉伸倍率→脱胶练整→定型→染色或者印花→检验→包装。
工艺流程包括步骤：
S1、采用桑蚕丝、桑蚕丝+氨纶包覆弹力丝作为原料，采用意大利进口R9500剑杆织机进行织造成坯布；
S2、采用剑杆织机进行织造时，经纱穿棕采用10片棕一顺穿法；
S3、采用剑杆织机进行织造的过程中，该面料的上机张力为18±2g；
S4、将坯绸进行脱胶练整，采用的压力为3～7公斤蒸汽压；脱胶练整包括脱胶煮炼和漂白；
脱胶练整为：将织好的面料置于温度为90℃的煮炼液中，浴比为1：20，处理2h；煮炼液的pH值为10且由纯碱和助剂组成，组分为：纯碱4g/L、肥皂8g/L、磷酸三钠0 .5%owf、净洗剂LS0 .4g/L、分散剂WA0.2ml/L、浓度40°Bé的硅酸钠2ml/L、渗透剂JFC0 .8ml/L、浓度85%的保险粉0 .7g/L；
漂白为将煮炼好的面料置于温度为80℃的漂白液中，浴比1：20，处理80min；漂白液的pH值为9，组分为：浓度30%的双氧水4g/L、浓度40°Bé的硅酸钠2ml/L、匀染剂O.2g/L。
S5、坯绸脱胶练整预缩后通过定型机进行定型，定型温度为140～175℃，速度为每分钟7～13米。
该面料生产加工的工艺，打破了传统且固定化的工艺流程，使得加工出的面料弹力的拉升度不再局限于1:1.35-1.4，而是可以根据客户的需求，于坯绸纺织完成后脱胶练整之前对面料的拉伸倍率进行计算，再通过本发明的脱胶练整工序完成对坯绸的预缩，最后完成对面料的自定义定型幅宽，从而满足一些特殊产品的拉伸需求。
以上所述仅为本发明的较佳实施例，并不用以限制本发明，本领域的技术人员在本发明技术方案范围内进行通常的变化和替换都应包含在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (4)

1.一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎，其特征在于，
所述素绉缎为拉伸比为1:1.7-2.2的真丝高弹面料；
面料的组织结构为缎纹组织结构，每个缎纹组织结构由10根经纱和10根纬纱交织而成，且该经纱10根、纬纱10根为一个纱线排列组织循环；
所述经纱均为1/20/22D的6A级桑蚕丝；
所述纬纱由A、B两种构成，A种纱线有5根，且规格均为2股20/22D桑蚕丝加1股20D氨纶加S捻向中捻度的包覆弹力丝；B种纱线有5根，且规格为2股20/22D桑蚕丝加1股20D氨纶加Z捻向中捻度的包覆弹力丝；
所述面料组织结构为从左往右的第一根、第六根经组织点为经纱一上四下一上四下；第二根、第七根经组织点为经纱二下一上二下二下一上二下；第三根、第八根经组织点为经纱四下一上四下一上；第四根、第九根经组织点为经纱一下一上三下一下一上三下；第五根、第十根经组织点为经纱三下一上一下三下一上一下。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述工艺流程为：面料织厂完成织造→根据需求计算面料所需的拉伸倍率→脱胶练整→定型。
3.根据权利要求2所述的一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述工艺流程包括步骤：
S1、采用桑蚕丝、桑蚕丝+氨纶包覆弹力丝作为原料，采用意大利进口R9500剑杆织机进行织造成坯布；
S2、采用剑杆织机进行织造时，经纱穿棕采用10片棕一顺穿法；
S3、采用剑杆织机进行织造的过程中，该面料的上机张力为18±2g；
S4、将坯绸进行脱胶练整，采用的压力为3～7公斤蒸汽压；
S5、坯绸脱胶练整预缩后通过定型机进行定型，定型温度为140～175℃，速度为每分钟7～13米。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一种高弹的真丝弹力素绉缎的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述脱胶练整包括脱胶煮炼和漂白，
所述脱胶练整中将织好的面料置于温度为90℃的煮炼液中，浴比为1：20，处理2h；煮炼液的pH值为10且由纯碱和助剂组成，组分为：纯碱4g/L、肥皂8g/L、磷酸三钠0 .5%owf、净洗剂LS0 .4g/L、分散剂WA0.2ml/L、浓度40°Bé的硅酸钠2ml/L、渗透剂JFC0 .8ml/L、浓度85%的保险粉0 .7g/L；
所述漂白为将煮炼好的面料置于温度为80℃的漂白液中，浴比1：20，处理80min；漂白液的pH值为9，组分为：浓度30%的双氧水4g/L、浓度40°Bé的硅酸钠2ml/L、匀染剂0.2g/L。
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