CN113786362B - Toning lotion composition with effects of relieving balance and protecting skin and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Toning lotion composition with effects of relieving balance and protecting skin and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN113786362B
CN113786362B CN202111127091.1A CN202111127091A CN113786362B CN 113786362 B CN113786362 B CN 113786362B CN 202111127091 A CN202111127091 A CN 202111127091A CN 113786362 B CN113786362 B CN 113786362B
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祝希宇
杨帆
周紫燕
郭苗
周正
郭阳
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Hubei Maishite Biotechnology Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention relates to a toning lotion composition with the effects of relieving and balancing and protecting skin and a preparation method thereof. The cosmetic water of the present invention comprises, based on the total weight of the composition: 1-35% of a composition with a soothing balance efficacy, 5-30% of a humectant, 0-30% of a skin conditioning agent, 0-10% of a thickening agent, 0.01-2% of a chelating agent, 0.01-1% of a solubilizer, 0.3-5% of a preservative, 0.01-1.0% of daily essence, a proper amount of a pH regulator and the balance of deionized water. Wherein the effective components are Abies starburst algae extract, desert rose leaf cell extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-5/halophyte Dunaliella/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5. The functional components have the promotion effect of the expression of the moisture-keeping related factor genes, high moisture-keeping effect, balance skin, improve the immunity of the skin and resist the capability of external stimulus. The cosmetic water composition provided by the invention has the advantages that through scientific combination of raw materials and by utilizing the synergistic effect of the functional components, the safe and effective moisturizing and relieving effects are finally achieved, and the skin is kept moist and comfortable.

Description

Toning lotion composition with effects of relieving balance and protecting skin and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to a skin care product and a preparation method thereof, belongs to the technical field of daily chemicals, and particularly relates to a toning lotion composition with the effects of relieving balance and skin care and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The cosmetic liquid is usually a skin care product used for the purpose of supplementing moisture and moisturizing components to the horny layer of the skin after cleaning dirt on the skin with a cleanser or the like, and adjusting the physiological action of the skin, plays a role after the foundation skin care, and is an essential important part in daily skin care. The toning lotion can play three roles of cleaning skin, moisturizing and moisturizing, balancing and relieving, effectively relieve and condition pressure skin and maintain the stable state of the skin.
Along with the acceleration of the social development and life pace, the skin is stressed while the living pressure is high. A series of factors such as bad living habits such as staying up all night, spicy and stimulated diet, sun and wind during commute, air pollution and the like can unbalance the state of skin, and various problems such as dry and streak, long spots, acne and sensitive muscles are caused. When these problems occur, it is necessary to perform certain soothing and conditioning on the skin.
In addition, the skin needs to withstand external physical and chemical damage, light irradiation damage, in-vivo nutrient component and water loss, and the like. In the aspect of skin protection, the barrier effect of the skin itself and the relief of the stimulus are particularly important.
In the current research, although some common moisturizing and soothing components are independently applied to moisturizing cosmetics, the moisturizing and soothing effects are limited, and meanwhile, the effects of moisturizing, soothing and balancing skin are not achieved by combining the components with the moisturizing, soothing and balancing effects in the toning lotion.
Therefore, how to develop a safe and effective cosmetic with the effects of moisturizing and soothing and balancing skin is a problem to be solved by the skilled person in the cosmetic industry.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a toning lotion composition with the effects of relieving and balancing skin care, which can permeate deep skin to efficiently moisturize, promote the generation of natural moisturizing factors and increase the water content of horny layer; can stimulate the regeneration of epidermis and the synthesis of collagen, repair damaged skin, and play a role in relieving and balancing skin.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the toning lotion composition with the efficacy of relieving balance and protecting skin.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the cosmetic water composition with the efficacy of relieving and balancing skin care comprises the following raw material components in terms of the total weight of the composition:
1-35% of a balance-soothing efficacy composition comprising: 0.1-30% of a Huperzia serrata extract, 0.1-30% of a desert rose leaf cell extract, and 0.1-30% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B;
5-30% of a humectant;
0-30% skin conditioning agent;
0-10% of a thickener;
0.3-5.0% preservative;
0.01-2% of a chelating agent;
0.01-1% of a solubilizing agent;
0.01-1.0% of daily essence;
proper amount of pH regulator and deionized water balance.
Furthermore, the toning lotion composition with the efficacy of relieving balance and protecting skin comprises the following components in terms of the total weight of the composition:
the balance-relieving efficacy composition 3.0-30.0% comprises: 1-25% of a huperzia serrata extract, 1-25% of a desert rose leaf cell extract, 1-25% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5 1-25%;
Figure BDA0003279232220000021
further, the skin care efficacy composition for relieving balance comprises the following raw material components:
1.5-20% of Abies starburst algae extract, 1.5-20% of desert rose leaf cell extract, and 1.5-20% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B.
Further, the balance-relieving efficacy composition comprises the following raw material components:
2-15% of a huperzia serrata extract, 2-15% of a desert rose leaf cell extract, and 5-palmitoyl tripeptide/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5 2-15%.
Furthermore, the toning lotion composition with the efficacy of relieving balance and protecting skin comprises the following components in terms of the total weight of the composition:
the balance-relieving efficacy composition 6.0-17.0% comprises: 2-5% of a huperzia serrata extract, 2-8% of a desert rose leaf cell extract, and 5 2-4% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B;
Figure BDA0003279232220000031
specifically, the desert rose leaf cell extract adopts a cell culture technology, and comprises the following steps:
1) Seed cell collection:
2 parts of fresh desert rose leaves are preferably taken, soaked for 20 minutes by 10% -30% of sodium hypochlorite disinfectant after cleaning and disinfecting, then sterile water is used for cleaning and removing disinfectant residues, then raw materials after cleaning and disinfecting are put into a pulverizer, 50mL of MS culture medium is added, the raw materials are pulverized to obtain slurry, 60-100mg/kg of cellulase is added for 3-5 hours, the slurry is filtered by a 100-micrometer microporous filter and then subjected to low-speed centrifugal separation, and the supernatant is discarded, so as to collect seed cells;
2) Seed cell culture:
inoculating the seed cells collected in the step 1) into a shake flask containing an MS culture medium, and shake culturing at the pH of 5-6 and 25 ℃ for 48 hours at 100r/min, wherein the culture can be stopped when the cell count is more than 20000/mL;
3) Subculture expansion culture:
inoculating the seed cells after culturing in step 2) into MS culture medium again, adding auxin IAA5-10mg/L and pectase 50-100mg/L, suspending and culturing in bioreactor, stirring at 100r/min, and pH of 5-6 at 0.03m 3 Introducing sterile oxygen, culturing in dark for 20-30 days, and stopping culturing when cell count is above 45000/mL;
4) Centrifuging and collecting supernatant, and extracting desert rose leaf cells.
Specifically, the preparation method of the Huperzia serrata extract comprises the following steps:
1) Selecting algae: selecting fresh Abies starburst algae, removing impurities such as grass sticks, silt and the like attached to the algae leaves, soaking in 75% ethanol solution for 15-30 min, and airing for later use;
2) Drying and powdering: drying the pretreated astronomical fir algae in the step 1) in an environment of 50-80 ℃ for 36-48 hours until the moisture content in algae leaves is reduced to below 8%, taking out the dried astronomical fir algae, pulverizing into powder, and sieving with a 80-200 mesh sieve to obtain algae powder;
3) Foaming and ultrasonic treatment: mixing the algae powder and water in the step 2) according to the mass ratio of 1:20, foaming for 8 hours to obtain a mixed solution, placing the mixed solution into an ultrasonic cell crusher, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 6-8 hours under the condition of 200-500W of power to obtain an algae ultrasonic solution;
4) And (3) enzymolysis and fermentation: adding citric acid into the alga ultrasonic solution in the step 3), adjusting the pH value of the solution to 4.0-6.0, and adding 6X 10 into the alga ultrasonic solution 4 ~8×10 4 U/L pectase and 0.1X10 thereof 4 ~1×10 4 U cellulase is subjected to enzymolysis for 3 to 5 hours at the temperature of 40 to 60 ℃; heating the hydrolyzed alga ultrasonic solution to boiling, inactivating enzyme for 5-20 minutes, and cooling to room temperature to obtain alga enzymolysis solution;
5) And (3) filtering, decompressing, distilling and collecting: adding 90% ethanol into the algae enzymolysis liquid in the step 4), extracting for 12 hours at 30 ℃, filtering, taking filtrate, distilling under reduced pressure, and removing ethanol in the solution to obtain the cephalotaxus astroxypegani extract.
Further, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerin acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, glycerin polyether-26, hexylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol-32, urea, allantoin, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, PPG-28-butanol polyether-35, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, sorbitol, and combinations thereof. The content is selected from the range of 5-30%, preferably 10-30%.
The skin conditioner is selected from one or more of Mel extract, arginine, lysine, ornithine, sodium lactate, nicotinamide, yeast extract, hamamelis mollis extract, thermus thermophilus fermentation product, testa oryzae extract, ammonium glycyrrhizinate, zinc gluconate, caffeine, and biotin. The content is selected from the range of 0.1-30%, preferably 5-25%.
The thickener is selected from one or a combination of acrylic acid dimethyl taurate ammonium/VP copolymer, acrylic acid dimethyl taurate ammonium/behenate polyether-25 methyl acrylic ester cross-linked polymer, glycerin acrylic ester/acrylic acid copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer sodium, polyacrylate-13, acrylic acid hydroxyethyl/acrylic acid dimethyl taurate sodium copolymer, xanthan gum, acrylic acid hydroxyethyl/acrylic acid dimethyl taurate sodium copolymer, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester) type/C10-30 alkanol acrylic ester cross-linked polymer. The content is selected from the range of 0-10%, preferably 0.5-8%.
The preservative is one or more selected from methylparaben, propylparaben and phenoxyethanol. The content thereof is selected from the range of 0.3-5%, preferably 0.3-1%.
The chelating agent is selected from one or more of EDTA-disodium, EDTA-tetrasodium, and combinations thereof. The content thereof is selected from the range of 0.01-2%, preferably 0.1-0.5%.
The solubilizer is one or more selected from PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate-20 and polysorbate-60. The content thereof is selected from the range of 0.01-1%, preferably 0.05-1%.
The pH regulator is selected from one or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and combinations thereof.
In addition, the invention also discloses a preparation method of the toning lotion composition with the effects of relieving and balancing skin care, which comprises the following process steps:
1) Adding water, chelating agent, humectant, part of preservative and pH regulator into water phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85deg.C, and stirring for 20-25 min;
2) Cooling water, stirring and cooling to 40-45deg.C, adding the composition with effects of relieving balance, skin conditioner, solubilizer, thickener, daily essence and other antiseptic, adding into emulsifying pot, and stirring for 15-20 min;
3) Continuously stirring and cooling to a temperature lower than 38 ℃, stopping stirring, and discharging after the detection is qualified.
Furthermore, the cosmetic water composition with the efficacy of relieving balance and protecting skin is in a solvent dispersion or suspension mode, or in the form of emulsified particles or in the form of polymer packages.
In particular, the cosmetic with the efficacy of soothing and balancing skin care is a skin care product, in particular an emulsion, essence, face cream, eye cream, body lotion, gel, sun cream.
By means of the technical scheme, the invention has the following advantages and beneficial technical effects:
1) The invention contains a plurality of active ingredients with moisturizing and soothing effects and balancing skin effects, such as a huperzia serrata extract, a desert rose leaf cell extract and palmitoyl tripeptide-5/halophyte Dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5, and can be used for soothing and balancing skin in various ways and maintaining skin steady state.
2) The moisturizing and balance-relieving efficacy toning lotion composition is selected from the group consisting of a huperzia serrata extract, a rose leaf cell extract and palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5, and the optimal composition proportion and efficacy test show that the moisturizing and balance-relieving skin is most preferred.
3) In the moisturizing and balancing efficacy toning lotion composition, the cell extracts of the desert rose leaves use a cell culture technology, so that the plant cell vitality is maintained to the maximum extent, and natural lipid inclusion formed on the cell walls is beneficial to transdermal absorption of the efficacy components.
4) The novel moisturizing and balancing efficacy toning lotion disclosed by the invention has the advantages that the efficacy components can permeate into the deep layer of the skin through intercellular lipid, so that the skin can be directly and effectively nourished, the generation of natural moisturizing factors is promoted, the skin roughness is effectively moisturized, the skin elasticity is improved, the collagen synthesis is promoted, the skin repairing process is improved, the dynamic balance of the epidermis is maintained, the triple skin barrier protection function is comprehensively improved, the skin is relieved, the skin is more moist and full and fine, and the external stimulus is effectively resisted. The components of the toning lotion disclosed by the invention are synergistic mutually, so that the effects of safely and effectively moisturizing, relieving and balancing skin are achieved.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a diagram showing the mechanism of action of a moisturizing relief composition;
FIG. 2 is a diagram showing that the moisturizing relief composition promotes expression of moisturizing related factor genes;
FIG. 3 is the transepidermal water loss of skin after lesion exfoliation using example 1;
fig. 4 shows the skin color a values after lesion stripping using example 1;
FIG. 5 shows skin red blood cell concentration after lesion stripping using example 1;
FIG. 6 is a graph of partial subject lesion stripping versus control area skin image acquisition control;
FIG. 7 is the transepidermal water loss rate of skin after lesion exfoliation using example 1 and comparative examples 1-6;
fig. 8 shows the values of skin color a after lesion stripping using example 1 and comparative examples 1-6.
Detailed Description
The invention discloses a toning lotion composition containing various moisturizing, balancing and balancing efficacy components and a preparation method thereof. The moisturizing, soothing and balancing skin care lotion composition comprises the following raw material components:
1.0 to 35.0 percent of moisturizing and balancing efficacy composition, 5 to 30 percent of humectant, 0 to 30 percent of skin conditioning agent, 0 to 10 percent of thickening agent, 0.3 to 5 percent of preservative, 0.01 to 2 percent of chelating agent, 0.01 to 1 percent of solubilizer, 0.01 to 1.0 percent of daily essence, a proper amount of pH regulator and the balance of deionized water.
The moisturizing and balance-relieving efficacy composition is prepared by mixing a huperzia serrata extract, a desert rose leaf cell extract and palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5.
(1) Abies starburst algae extract
The Abies starburst algae extract is rich in sulfated polysaccharide, can help the skin repair process, improve skin texture, and fill the dry skin with water, so that the skin is more elastic and tender. Specifically, the extract of the huperzia serrata can induce and activate skin multifunctional barriers, regulate skin wettability and control skin barrier permeability, reduce skin moisture loss, and supplement water and preserve moisture; promoting, regulating and improving the repair process of skin, and maintaining the dynamic balance of epidermis; the triple skin barrier protection function is comprehensively improved; has important antioxidation and toxin expelling potential, can resist various stress environments and constructs a strong antioxidation barrier.
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
1) Algae selection: selecting fresh Abies starburst algae, removing impurities such as grass sticks, silt and the like attached to the algae leaves, soaking in 75% ethanol solution for 15-30 min, and airing for later use;
2) Drying and powdering: drying the pretreated astronomical fir algae in the step 1) in an environment of 50-80 ℃ for 36-48 hours until the moisture content in algae leaves is reduced to below 8%, taking out the dried astronomical fir algae, pulverizing into powder, and sieving with a 80-200 mesh sieve to obtain algae powder;
3) Foaming and ultrasonic treatment: mixing the algae powder in the step 2) with water according to the weight ratio of 1: mixing and stirring uniformly in a mass ratio of 20, foaming for 8 hours to obtain a mixed solution, placing the mixed solution into an ultrasonic cell crusher, and performing ultrasonic treatment for 6-8 hours under the condition of 200-500W of power to obtain an ultrasonic solution of the astrotrichia pastoris;
4) And (3) enzymolysis and fermentation: adding citric acid into the alga ultrasonic solution in the step 3), adjusting the pH value of the solution to 4.0-6.0, and adding 6X 10 into the alga ultrasonic solution 4 ~8×10 4 U/L pectase and 0.1X10 thereof 4 ~1×10 4 U cellulase is subjected to enzymolysis for 3 to 5 hours at the temperature of 40 to 60 ℃; heating the hydrolyzed alga ultrasonic solution to boiling, inactivating enzyme for 5-20 minutes, and cooling to room temperature to obtain alga enzymolysis solution;
5) And (3) filtering, decompressing, distilling and collecting: adding 90% ethanol into the algae enzymolysis liquid in the step 4), extracting for 12 hours at 30 ℃, filtering, taking filtrate, distilling under reduced pressure, and removing ethanol in the solution to obtain the cephalotaxus astroxypegani extract.
(2) Desert rose leaf cell extract
The desert rose, also called Tianbao flower, belongs to oleander, and is distributed in North China such as Zhuqiao, aland, morocco and the like from east Africa to south Arabian peninsula. Desert rose is good at high temperature and dry and sunny environment, and is resistant to summer heat and drought. The desert rose flower is like a small loudspeaker, and the rose is red and very gorgeous. The compound refined extract extracted from the leaves of the desert rose can help skin deeply and permanently moisturize, excite the natural moisturizing potential of the skin and resist the influence of environmental pressure and aging.
The desert rose leaf cell extract acts on three layers to promote the water retention capacity of skin again: promote the cell renewal of the epidermis layer, help to retain water molecules and strengthen the water system. Improving and enhancing synthesis of glycosaminoglycan in dermis layer. Improving the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and ensuring that moisture can be transported from the dermis layer to the epidermis layer without resistance. The generation of radicals can be reduced. Inhibiting cell dysfunction caused by free radicals, including skin dehydration, etc. The plant cell culture technology is used for extracting the desert rose leaf cells, so that the cell activity is maintained to the greatest extent, and natural lipid inclusion is formed, so that the desert rose leaf cells are more beneficial to absorption and permeation of skin.
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
1) Seed cell collection:
2 parts of fresh desert rose leaves are preferably taken, soaked for 20 minutes by 10% -30% of sodium hypochlorite disinfectant after cleaning and disinfecting, then sterile water is used for cleaning and removing disinfectant residues, then raw materials after cleaning and disinfecting are put into a pulverizer, 50mL of MS culture medium is added, the raw materials are pulverized to obtain slurry, 60-100mg/kg of cellulase is added for 3-5 hours, the slurry is filtered by a 100-micrometer microporous filter and then subjected to low-speed centrifugal separation, and the supernatant is discarded, so as to collect seed cells;
2) Seed cell culture:
inoculating the seed cells collected in the step 1) into a shake flask containing an MS culture medium, and shake culturing at the pH of 5-6 and 25 ℃ for 48 hours at 100r/min, wherein the culture can be stopped when the cell count is more than 20000/mL;
3) Subculture expansion culture:
inoculating the seed cells after culturing in step 2) into MS culture medium again, adding auxin IAA5-10mg/L and pectase 50-100mg/L, suspending and culturing in bioreactor, stirring at 100r/min, and pH of 5-6 at 0.03m 3 Introducing sterile oxygen, culturing in dark for 20-30 days, and stopping culturing when cell count is above 45000/mL;
4) Centrifuging and collecting supernatant, and extracting desert rose leaf cells.
(3) Palmitoyl tripeptide-5/Dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 promotes skin cell growth, inhibits oxygen and hydroxyl radicals, promotes synthesis of matrix proteins, particularly collagen, and may also increase production of elastin, hyaluronic acid, glycosaminoglycans, and fibronectin. Dunaliella salina is a kind of green algae, and as a single cell organism, dunaliella salina can survive under extremely hot and high salinity conditions. As a way to adapt itself to extreme conditions, dunaliella algae cells can produce special materials to help their survival. The special material can also help human skin regeneration, improve skin metabolism, inject important nutrients, keep skin moist, protect skin from damage caused by environmental factors (radiation and high temperature), and slow down skin aging. Sodium hyaluronate is an inherent biological substance of skin, and exogenous sodium hyaluronate is a supplement to endogenous sodium hyaluronate of skin, and can permeate into skin epidermis layer to promote the supply of skin nutrition. Meanwhile, the composition has the effects of promoting proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells and scavenging oxygen free radicals, and can promote regeneration of the skin at the injured part and repair the injured skin. In addition, the skin care product has strong lubricating feel and film forming property, and can form a layer of film on the surface of the skin, so that the skin can generate good smooth feel and moist feel, and the skin can be protected. Vitamin B5 is also called panthenol, is easy to permeate the horny layer, has strong moisturizing effect, is helpful for relieving skin discomfort and itching, and stimulates the growth of epidermal cells.
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5 is a high quality active mixture of synthetic peptide combined with highly effective skin bioactive ingredients, which can form a skin barrier effective against external stimuli, and simultaneously stimulate epidermal renewal and collagen synthesis, assist in repairing skin tissue function, effectively moisturize and sooth skin, and maintain healthy skin condition.
Specifically, the mass ratio of the mixture is (2-5): 1-3): 3-6): 1-4, 2-5 parts by mass of palmitoyl tripeptide-5, 1-3 parts by mass of dunaliella salina extract, 3-6 parts by mass of sodium hyaluronate and 1-4 parts by mass of provitamin B5 are mixed with 0.2 part by mass of phenoxyethanol, 0.8 part by mass of sodium benzoate, 1 part by mass of potassium sorbate and 0.5 part by mass of ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mixture is homogenized at 1000r/min for 30min at 35 ℃ to obtain the mixture.
The moisturizing and balance-relieving effect toning lotion composition consists of the astronomical fir algae extract, the desert rose leaf cell extract and the palmitoyl tripeptide-5/halophyte Dunaliella/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5, and the mechanism diagram of moisturizing and moisturizing effects of the composition for relieving the dry state of skin, improving the quality of dermis layers and is shown in figure 1 through endogenous and exogenous moisturizing and moisturizing effects of the composition.
The composition components act synergistically to promote the expression of moisture-related factor genes (FIG. 2, control is a lotion consisting of 94.5% water, 5.0% propylene glycol and 0.5% ethylene glycol phenyl ether), such as SPT gene, AQP3 gene and HAS3 gene. Wherein, the SPT gene regulates the synthesis of Serine Palmitoyltransferase (SPT) which can synthesize ceramide, and the ceramide of sphingolipids in skin accounts for about half of the total weight of lipid in horny layer, and participates in the formation of the barrier function of epidermis to form a barrier for preventing water loss; the AQP3 gene codes the skin aquaporin, controls the ingress and egress of skin moisture, can transport water and nonpolar small molecules in the skin to the epidermis to form a barrier layer, and improves the moisturizing capability of the skin; the HAS3 gene is located in human chromosome 16, q22.1 band, and encodes one of the genes for hyaluronate synthase. The hyaluronic acid synthase is an extremely important source for synthesizing hyaluronic acid in human life activities, the hyaluronic acid has good moisturizing effect, the hyaluronic acid mainly exists in the dermis layer in a colloid form and is mainly responsible for water storage, so that the skin looks plump and elastic.
In conclusion, the moisturizing, soothing and balancing efficacy toning lotion composition disclosed by the invention has the effects of efficiently moisturizing, promoting skin nutrition supply, forming a skin protection barrier, effectively resisting the damage of the external environment to the skin, repairing the damaged skin and soothing and balancing the skin.
The invention is illustrated by the following examples which are given for further illustration of the invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. Some insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the invention by others are within the scope of the invention.
The following percentages (%) are mass percentages unless otherwise indicated. All raw material components of the invention are commercial products.
Examples 1 to 4
A cosmetic water composition with effects of keeping moisture, relieving balance and caring skin comprises the raw materials of examples 1-4 in proportion as shown in the following table 1.
TABLE 1 raw material composition ratios (unit: mass%) of examples 1-4
Figure BDA0003279232220000091
Figure BDA0003279232220000101
The preparation process method of the toning lotion with the effects of relieving and balancing skin care in the embodiments 1-4 can be expressed as follows:
1) Adding water, allantoin, EDTA-disodium, citric acid, sodium citrate, glycereth-26, glycerol, glycerylacrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, 1, 3-propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol-32 and methylparaben into a water phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 20-25 minutes;
2) Adding cooling water, stirring and cooling to 40-45deg.C, adding the balance relieving composition, rice chaff extract, hamamelis mollis extract, polysorbate-20, sodium polyacrylate, essence, and phenoxyethanol into emulsifying pot, stirring for 15-20 min;
3) Continuously stirring and cooling to a temperature lower than 38 ℃, stopping stirring, and discharging after the detection is qualified.
Effect verification test example
Short-term moisturizing effect test 1
1. The tester: 33 healthy people (20-35 years old), women; the formulation of example 1 was tried.
2. Test part: the inner side of the forearm; the double forearms are normal skin, and the skin injury, redness, dander and other uncomfortable symptoms are avoided;
3. the testing method comprises the following steps: the inner sides of the forearms of the subject were each marked with 1 test area of 3cm×3cm, 1 was used as a test sample area, 1 was used as a blank control area, 2 test areas were peeled off 15 times with tape, respectively, and the skin barrier was damaged (as shown by an increase in the skin transepidermal water loss rate value), and the sample area was used in example 1.
4. Test instrument: skin moisture loss tester
Figure BDA0003279232220000102
TM300。
5. The test indexes are as follows: the rate of transepidermal water loss of the skin.
Rate of change in percutaneous water loss = (rate of percutaneous water loss after trial-rate of percutaneous water loss before trial)/rate of percutaneous water loss before trial.
6. The test results are shown in fig. 3 and table 2 below:
TABLE 2 skin transepidermal water loss rate after use of example 1
Figure BDA0003279232220000111
As seen from the results of fig. 3 and table 2, the peeling was performed immediately after the damage: 10min after use, the skin transepidermal water loss rate of the sample area is obviously reduced by 25.05%, and the contrast area is reduced by 11.14%; after 1 day of use, the skin transepidermal water loss rate of the sample area is obviously reduced by 27.83%, and the control area is reduced by 26.53%; after 3 days of use, the skin transepidermal water loss rate of the sample area is remarkably reduced by 42.86%, and the control area is reduced by 36.77%; after 7 days of use, the skin of the sample area and the skin of the control area both recover to the normal moisture retention level, the transepidermal water loss rate of the sample area is obviously reduced by 37.69%, and the control area is reduced by 37.10%.
The percutaneous loss of water was reduced in the skin after application of example 1. The most obvious effect of reducing in 10min shows that the moisturizing agent has a short-term instant moisturizing effect, and can maintain the reduction of the percutaneous water loss rate within 3 days, thus showing that the moisturizing agent has longer lasting moisturizing performance. As can be seen from the sample results, this example 1 has a short-lasting moisturizing effect within 3 days of use, and the damaged site has recovered within 7 days, with the control and sample data being similar.
The cosmetic water composition has a relatively obvious short-acting moisturizing effect.
Test example 2 for soothing efficacy
1. The tester: 33 healthy people (20-35 years old), women; the formulation of example 1 was tried. 2. Test part: the inner side of the forearm; the double forearms are normal skin, and the skin injury, redness, dander and other uncomfortable symptoms are avoided;
3. the testing method comprises the following steps: the subjects were allowed to rest for 20min at a temperature of 21±1 ℃ and a relative humidity of 50±5% rh, and then the laboratory staff measured the skin red blood cell concentration, skin color inside the subject's forearm.
The experimenter peeled off the tape 15 times in 2 test areas, respectively, and then measured the skin red blood cell concentration and skin color inside the forearm of the subject. The experimenter measures the concentration of skin red blood cells on the inner side of the forearm immediately after the sample application area is smeared with the test sample, and the control area is a blank control.
The skin color was measured at 3min after use, 6min after use, 8min after use, 10min after use, 30min after use, 60min after use, and 120min after use, respectively, by the laboratory staff to measure the skin red blood cell concentration inside the forearm, 10min after use.
After 1 day, 3 days, and 7 days of use, the subjects were given a return visit, and after wiping the forearm with dry facial tissues, the subjects were allowed to rest for 20min in an environment at a temperature of 21±1 ℃ and a relative humidity of 50±5%rh, and the experimenters measured skin color inside the forearm.
4. Test instrument: skin color measuring instrument
Figure BDA0003279232220000121
CL400; skin heme cell tester TiVi700.
5. The test indexes are as follows: the higher the skin color, the higher the a value, indicating a redder skin color; skin red blood cell concentration. The larger the measurement, the higher the skin red blood cell concentration.
6. The test results are shown in the following FIGS. 4-6 and tables 3-4:
table 3 skin color a values after use of example 1
Skin colour a value Immediately after peeling damage After use for 10min After 1 day of use After 3 days of use After 7 days of use
Sample of 8.97 8.32 7.03 6.84 7.41
Control 8.92 8.60 7.15 6.79 7.48
TABLE 4 skin red blood cell concentration after use of example 1
Figure BDA0003279232220000122
As shown in fig. 4 and table 3, the skin color a value is compared with the immediately after the lesion peeling: 10min after use, the skin color a of the sample area is obviously reduced by 7.26%, and the control area is reduced by 3.58%; after 1 day of use, the skin color a value of the sample area is significantly reduced by 21.59%, and the control area is significantly reduced by 19.86%; after 3 days of use, the skin color a value of the sample area is remarkably reduced by 23.70%, and the skin color a value of the control area is remarkably reduced by 23.91%; after 7 days of use, the skin color a values of the sample areas were significantly reduced by 17.32% and the control areas were significantly reduced by 16.17%.
The data shows that immediately upon application of example 1, the skin color recovery effect was evident in the area of the peel damage, and the repair damage rate was faster for example 1 compared to the control group. During use, the damaged areas were each less skin colored than the control areas, indicating that the examples had a significant rapid reddening effect.
As shown in fig. 5 and table 4, the skin red blood cell concentration was lower than that immediately after the lesion was peeled: immediately after use, the skin red blood cell concentration of the sample area is obviously increased by 2.42%, and the control area is obviously increased by 1.76%; 3min after use, the skin red blood cell concentration of the sample area is obviously increased by 2.27%, and the control area is obviously increased by 0.93%; 6min after use, the skin red blood cell concentration of the sample area is obviously increased by 1.70%, and the control area is not obviously increased by 0.40%; 8min after use, the skin red blood cell concentration of the sample area is remarkably increased by 1.54%, and the control area is not remarkably increased by 0.23%; 10min after use, the skin red blood cell concentration of the sample area is not remarkably increased by 0.66%, and the control area is not remarkably reduced by 0.70%; 30min after use, the skin red blood cell concentration of the sample area is reduced by 1.12% without significance, and the significance of the control area is reduced by 1.86%; 60 minutes after use, the skin red blood cell concentration of the sample area is obviously reduced by 3.02 percent, and the control area is obviously reduced by 3.06 percent; 120min after use, the skin red blood cell concentration of the sample area is obviously reduced by 4.36%, and the control area is obviously reduced by 3.61%.
The data shows that the skin red blood cell concentration can be restored to the control area red blood cell concentration level 120min after using example 1 of the present invention, macroscopically showing the regression of the red swelling in the damaged area (fig. 6).
The above data and fig. 6 illustrate that the lotion of the present invention has remarkable skin repairing and soothing effects.
Safety test example 3
1. Number of test persons: 30 healthy people, 13 men and 17 women; the age range is 20-45 years.
2. The testing method comprises the following steps: the selected area is not more than 50mm 2 A suitable patch tester with a depth of about 1mm is used for testing a patch by a closed patch test methodAbout 0.020-0.025 mL (g) of the sample is added into the plaque tester. The patch tester was applied to the forearm of the subject, the test substance was removed after 24 hours, and skin reactions were observed at 0.5, 24, and 48 hours after the removal, and the results were recorded according to the skin reaction classification standard in cosmetic safety technical Specification 2015.
3. The evaluation criteria are shown in Table 5 below:
TABLE 5 skin adverse reaction grading criteria
Figure BDA0003279232220000131
The results show that: the results of the human skin patch test show that the scoring grades of 0.5h, 24h and 48h at 3 observation time points after the patch is removed are all 0 score, namely, 0 cases of 30 subjects have positive reactions, and according to the specification in the cosmetic safety technical Specification (2015 edition), the test object does not cause skin adverse reactions to the subjects in the batch.
Synergistic test example 4
Comparative examples 1 to 6
The raw material formulation composition of the astringent composition with moisturizing and soothing effects is shown in table 6 below.
TABLE 6 raw material composition ratios (unit: mass%) of comparative examples 1 to 6
Figure BDA0003279232220000141
The preparation process of the toning lotion with moisturizing and soothing effects of comparative examples 1 to 6 can be expressed as follows:
1) Adding water, allantoin, EDTA-disodium, citric acid, sodium citrate, glycereth-26, glycerol, glycerylacrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, 1, 3-propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol-32 and methylparaben into a water phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 20-25 minutes;
2) Adding cooling water, stirring and cooling to 40-45deg.C, adding moisturizing and balancing composition, rice chaff extract, hamamelis mollis extract, polysorbate-20, sodium polyacrylate, essence, and phenoxyethanol into emulsifying pot, stirring for 15-20 min;
3) Continuously stirring and cooling to a temperature lower than 38 ℃, stopping stirring, and discharging after the detection is qualified.
The moisturizing effect test and the soothing effect test were performed on example 1 of table 1 and comparative examples 1 to 6 of table 6, and the test results are shown in fig. 7 and 8, in which the control is a blank control.
As can be seen from fig. 7, the skin percutaneous water loss reduction rates were ranked as: example 1> comparative example 3>1>2>4>6>5;
the soothing effect test was conducted on example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 6, and the test results are shown in FIG. 8:
after 10min of application, the skin color a-value reduction values were ranked by size: example 1> comparative example 3>1>2>4>6>5.
In conclusion, the moisturizing and soothing compound has obvious moisturizing and soothing effects on skin through the synergistic effect of the components, and is more obvious than the moisturizing and soothing effects of a single component and a combination of two components.
The present invention is not limited to the preferred embodiments, but can be modified, equivalent, and modified in any way without departing from the technical scope of the present invention.

Claims (7)

1. A toning lotion composition with the efficacy of relieving and balancing skin care, which is characterized in that:
the composition comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight:
a soothing balance efficacy composition 3.0-30.0%, said soothing balance efficacy composition comprising: 1-25% of a huperzia serrata extract, 1-25% of a desert rose leaf cell extract, 1-25% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5 1-25%;
10-30% of humectant;
5-25% of skin conditioning agent;
0.5-8% of thickening agent;
0.3-1.0% of preservative;
0.1-0.5% of chelating agent;
0.05-1% of solubilizer;
0.01-0.05% of daily essence;
a proper amount of pH regulator;
the balance of deionized water is added to 100.0%;
the preparation method of the cephalotaxus stenosatus extract comprises the following steps:
1) Algae selection: selecting fresh Abies starburst algae, removing grass sticks and sediment impurities attached to algae leaves, soaking in 75% ethanol solution for 15-30 min, and airing for standby;
2) Drying and powdering: drying the pretreated astronomical fir algae in the step 1) in an environment of 50-80 ℃ for 36-48 hours until the moisture content in algae leaves is reduced to below 8%, taking out the dried astronomical fir algae, pulverizing into powder, and sieving with a 80-200 mesh sieve to obtain algae powder;
3) Foaming and ultrasonic treatment: mixing the algae powder in the step 2) with water according to the weight ratio of 1: mixing and stirring uniformly in a mass ratio of 20, foaming for 8 hours to obtain a mixed solution, placing the mixed solution into an ultrasonic cell crusher, and performing ultrasonic treatment for 6-8 hours under the condition of 200-500W of power to obtain an ultrasonic solution of the astrotrichia pastoris;
4) And (3) enzymolysis and fermentation: adding citric acid into the alga ultrasonic solution in the step 3), adjusting the pH value of the solution to 4.0-6.0, and adding 6X 10 into the alga ultrasonic solution 4 ~8×10 4 U/L pectase and 0.1X10 thereof 4 ~1×10 4 U cellulase is subjected to enzymolysis for 3 to 5 hours at the temperature of 40 to 60 ℃; heating the hydrolyzed alga ultrasonic solution to boiling, inactivating enzyme for 5-20 minutes, and cooling to room temperature to obtain alga enzymolysis solution;
5) And (3) filtering, decompressing, distilling and collecting: adding 90% ethanol into the algae enzymolysis solution in the step 4), extracting for 12 hours at 30 ℃, filtering, taking filtrate, distilling under reduced pressure, and removing ethanol in the solution to obtain a huperzia serrata extract;
the preparation method of the desert rose leaf cell extract comprises the following steps:
1) Seed cell collection:
taking 2 parts of fresh desert rose leaves, cleaning and disinfecting, soaking for 20 minutes by using 10% -30% sodium hypochlorite disinfectant, cleaning by using sterile water to remove disinfectant residues, then putting the cleaned and disinfected raw materials into a pulverizer, adding 50mL of MS culture medium, pulverizing to obtain slurry, adding 60-100mg/kg of cellulase for 3-5 hours, filtering by using a 100-micrometer microporous filter, centrifuging at a low speed, discarding the supernatant, and collecting seed cells;
2) Seed cell culture:
inoculating the seed cells collected in the step 1) into a shake flask containing an MS culture medium, and shake culturing at the pH of 5-6 and 25 ℃ for 48 hours at 100r/min, wherein the culture is stopped when the cell count is more than 20000/mL;
3) Subculture expansion culture:
inoculating the seed cells after culturing in step 2) into MS culture medium again, adding auxin IAA5-10mg/L and pectase 50-100mg/L, suspending and culturing in bioreactor, stirring at 100r/min, and pH of 5-6 at 0.03m 3 Introducing sterile oxygen, culturing in dark for 20-30 days, and stopping culturing when the cell count is above 45000/mL;
4) Centrifuging and collecting to obtain supernatant, and extracting desert rose leaf cells;
the palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5 is a mixture composed of palmitoyl tripeptide-5, dunaliella salina, sodium hyaluronate and provitamin B5 with the mass ratio of (2-5): (1-3): (3-6): (1-4).
2. The cosmetic water composition having a soothing balance skin care effect as claimed in claim 1, wherein:
the balance-soothing efficacy composition comprises:
1.5-20.0% of Abies starburst algae extract, 1.5-20.0% of desert rose leaf cell extract, and 5.5-20.0% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B.
3. The cosmetic water composition having a soothing balance skin care effect as claimed in claim 2, wherein:
the balance-soothing efficacy composition comprises:
2.0-15.0% of Abies starburst algae extract, 2.0-15.0% of desert rose leaf cell extract, and 5.0-15.0% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B.
4. The cosmetic water composition having a soothing balance skin care effect as claimed in claim 1, wherein:
the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, propylene glycol, glycerin acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, glycerin polyether-26, hexylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol-32, urea, allantoin, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, PPG-28-butanol polyether-35, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, sorbitol and their combinations;
the skin conditioner is selected from one or more of Mel extract, arginine, lysine, ornithine, sodium lactate, nicotinamide, yeast extract, hamamelis mollis extract, thermus thermophilus fermentation product, testa oryzae extract, ammonium glycyrrhizinate, zinc gluconate, caffeine, and biotin;
the thickener is selected from one or a combination of acrylic acid dimethyl taurate ammonium/VP copolymer, acrylic acid dimethyl taurate ammonium/behenate polyether-25 methacrylate cross-linked polymer, glycerin acrylic acid ester/acrylic acid copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer sodium, polyacrylate-13, acrylic acid hydroxyethyl/acrylic acid dimethyl taurate sodium copolymer, xanthan gum, acrylic acid hydroxyethyl/acrylic acid dimethyl taurate sodium copolymer, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester) type/C10-30 alkanol acrylic acid ester cross-linked polymer;
the preservative is one or more selected from methylparaben, propylparaben and phenoxyethanol;
the chelating agent is selected from one or more of EDTA-disodium, EDTA-tetrasodium and combinations thereof;
the solubilizer is selected from one or more of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate-20 and polysorbate-60;
the pH regulator is selected from one or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and combinations thereof.
5. A method for preparing the lotion composition with the efficacy of soothing balance and protecting skin as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, which comprises the following steps:
1) Adding water, chelating agent, humectant, part of preservative and pH regulator into water phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85deg.C, and stirring for 20-25 min;
2) Cooling water, stirring and cooling to 40-45deg.C, adding the composition with effects of relieving balance, skin conditioner, solubilizer, thickener, daily essence and other antiseptic, adding into emulsifying pot, and stirring for 15-20 min;
3) Continuously stirring and cooling to a temperature lower than 38 ℃, stopping stirring, and discharging after the detection is qualified.
6. The method for preparing the cosmetic water composition with the efficacy of relieving and balancing skin care according to claim 5, which is characterized in that: the cosmetic water composition is in a solvent dispersion or suspension mode.
7. The method for preparing the cosmetic water composition with the efficacy of relieving and balancing skin care according to claim 6, which is characterized in that: the cosmetic water composition is in the form of emulsified particles or polymer-coated form.
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