Disclosure of Invention
The moisturizing and repairing composition has good moisturizing and repairing effects and can effectively repair skin barriers.
The invention adopts the following technical scheme for solving the technical problems:
a moisturizing repair composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.08-0.2 part of hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, 0.15-0.3 part of gluconolactone, 0.2-0.5 part of tocopherol acetate, 0.3-0.6 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.3-0.6 part of allantoin, 0.4-0.7 part of potentilla discolor extract, 0.6-1 part of trehalose, 0.8-1.2 parts of mirabilis jalapa extract, 1-1.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 laurate, 2-4 parts of decyl glucoside, 7-12 parts of glycerol and 75-90 parts of deionized water.
The moisturizing repair composition disclosed by the invention is reasonable in formula matching, has good moisturizing and repair effects, and can effectively repair skin barriers.
As a preferable scheme, the moisturizing repair composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.08-0.15 part of hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, 0.15-0.25 part of gluconolactone, 0.3-0.5 part of tocopherol acetate, 0.4-0.6 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.4-0.6 part of allantoin, 0.5-0.7 part of potentilla discolor extract, 0.6-0.9 part of trehalose, 0.8-1.1 part of mirabilis jalapa extract, 1-1.4 parts of polyglycerol-10 laurate, 2.5-4 parts of decyl glucoside, 8-12 parts of glycerol and 75-85 parts of deionized water.
As a preferable scheme, the moisturizing repair composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1 part of hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, 0.2 part of gluconolactone, 0.4 part of tocopherol acetate, 0.5 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.5 part of allantoin, 0.6 part of potentilla discolor extract, 0.8 part of trehalose, 1 part of mirabilis jalapa extract, 1.2 parts of polyglycerol-10 laurate, 3 parts of decyl glucoside, 10 parts of glycerol and 81.7 parts of deionized water.
The inventor of the invention finds that the moisturizing and repairing composition has the best moisturizing and repairing effects under the weight ratio.
As a preferable scheme, the preparation method of the mirabilis jalapa extract comprises the following steps:
s01, cleaning the whole mirabilis jalapa, drying, and crushing to 50-80 meshes to obtain mirabilis jalapa powder;
s02, adding mirabilis jalapa powder into deionized water, uniformly mixing to obtain slurry, adding complex enzyme and CTAB, reacting for 4-10 h at 45-60 ℃, heating to 80-95 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 6-12 min for inactivation to obtain enzymatic hydrolysate; the weight ratio of the mirabilis jalapa powder to the deionized water to the composite enzyme to the CTAB is 1: 5-10: 0.02-0.05: 0.005-0.015;
s03, adding the enzymatic hydrolysate into an extraction kettle for extraction to obtain an extract, and drying to obtain the mirabilis jalapa extract.
Preferably, the complex enzyme is prepared from beta-glucosidase, pectinase and glucoamylase according to a weight ratio of 1: 0.5-2: 0.5 to 2.
The inventor of the invention finds that the mirabilis jalapa extract with good repairing effect is obtained through crushing, enzymolysis and supercritical extraction, and can effectively repair the skin barrier.
The inventor finds that in the preparation process of the mirabilis jalapa extract, the dissolution of components with repair effect of the mirabilis jalapa can be effectively promoted by enzymolysis of the complex enzyme and the CTAB, and the subsequent supercritical extraction is facilitated.
As a preferred scheme, the pressure of supercritical extraction is 20-28 Mpa, the extraction temperature is 50-65 ℃, the extraction time is 80-120 min, and CO is added2The flow rate of the fluid is 15-25 kg/h.
As a preferred scheme, the preparation method of the potentilla discolor extract comprises the following steps:
s11, cleaning the potentilla discolor whole grass, drying, and crushing to 60-100 meshes to obtain potentilla discolor powder;
s12, adding the discolor cinquefoil herb powder and the citric acid into deionized water, soaking for 40-80 min, heating to 55-70 ℃, and preserving heat for 80-150 min to obtain an extracting solution; the weight ratio of the discolor cinquefoil herb powder to the citric acid to the deionized water is 1: 0.02-0.06: 6 to 10.
S13, adding the extracting solution and the auxiliary agent into an extraction kettle for extraction to obtain an extract, and drying to obtain the potentilla discolor extract; the weight ratio of the extracting solution to the auxiliary agent is 1: 0.01 to 0.04;
the supercritical extraction pressure is 30-35 Mpa, the extraction temperature is 45-55 ℃, the extraction time is 100-200 min, and CO is added2The flow rate of the fluid is 20-28 kg/h.
The inventor of the invention finds that the potentilla discolor extract with good repairing effect can be obtained by adopting crushing, acid-assisted water extraction and alkyl glycoside-assisted extraction in the process of extracting a large amount of potentilla discolor.
As a preferable embodiment, the auxiliary is dodecyl glucoside.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the moisturizing and repairing composition, which comprises the following steps:
adding hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and polyglycerol-10 laurate into glycerol, heating to 55-70 ℃, uniformly stirring, adding deionized water, uniformly stirring, cooling to 38-45 ℃, adding gluconolactone, tocopheryl acetate, allantoin, potentilla discolor extract, trehalose, mirabilis jalapa extract and decyl glucoside, and uniformly stirring to obtain the moisturizing repair composition.
The invention also provides an application of the moisturizing and repairing composition prepared in the preparation of moisturizing and repairing cosmetics.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the moisturizing and repairing composition has good moisturizing and repairing effects, can effectively repair skin barriers, can effectively relieve skin, repair the balance of elements inside and outside the skin, promote the skin to be free from external stimulation and enhance the safety protection of the skin.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are a part of the embodiments of the present invention, but not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
A moisturizing repair composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1 part of hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, 0.2 part of gluconolactone, 0.4 part of tocopherol acetate, 0.5 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.5 part of allantoin, 0.6 part of potentilla discolor extract, 0.8 part of trehalose, 1 part of mirabilis jalapa extract, 1.2 parts of polyglycerol-10 laurate, 3 parts of decyl glucoside, 10 parts of glycerol and 81.7 parts of deionized water.
The preparation method of the mirabilis jalapa extract comprises the following steps:
s01, cleaning the whole mirabilis jalapa, drying, and crushing to 60 meshes to obtain mirabilis jalapa powder;
s02, adding mirabilis jalapa powder into deionized water, mixing uniformly to obtain slurry, adding complex enzyme and CTAB, reacting at 55 ℃ for 6h, heating to 85 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 10min for inactivation to obtain enzymatic hydrolysate; the weight ratio of the mirabilis jalapa powder to the deionized water to the composite enzyme to the CTAB is 1: 8: 0.045: 0.01;
s03, adding the enzymolysis liquid into an extraction kettle for extraction, wherein the pressure of the supercritical extraction is 25Mpa,the extraction temperature is 60 ℃, the extraction time is 100min, and CO is added2The flow rate of the fluid is 20kg/h to obtain the extract, and the extract is dried to obtain the mirabilis jalapa extract.
The compound enzyme is prepared from beta-glucosidase, pectinase and glucoamylase according to a weight ratio of 1: 1: 1.
The preparation method of the potentilla discolor extract comprises the following steps:
s11, cleaning the discolor cinquefoil herb, drying, and crushing to 80 meshes to obtain discolor cinquefoil herb powder;
s12, adding the discolor cinquefoil herb powder and the citric acid into deionized water, soaking for 50min, heating to 60 ℃, and preserving heat for 120min to obtain an extracting solution; the weight ratio of the discolor cinquefoil herb powder to the citric acid to the deionized water is 1: 0.05: 9.
s13, adding the extracting solution and dodecyl glucoside into an extraction kettle for extraction, wherein the supercritical extraction pressure is 32Mpa, the extraction temperature is 50 ℃, the extraction time is 150min, and CO is2The flow rate of the fluid is 25kg/h to obtain an extract, and the extract is dried to obtain the potentilla discolor extract; the weight ratio of the extracting solution to the auxiliary agent is 1: 0.03.
the preparation method of the moisturizing and repairing composition comprises the following steps:
adding hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and polyglycerol-10 laurate into glycerol, heating to 60 ℃, uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 400rpm, adding deionized water, uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 500rpm, cooling to 40 ℃, adding gluconolactone, tocopheryl acetate, allantoin, potentilla discolor extract, trehalose, mirabilis jalapa extract and decyl glucoside, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 200rpm to obtain the moisturizing repair composition.
In the preparation process of the mirabilis jalapa extract, the components with the repairing effect of the mirabilis jalapa can be effectively promoted to be dissolved out through enzymolysis of the complex enzyme and the CTAB, the subsequent supercritical extraction is facilitated, other enzymes are adopted to compositely replace the complex enzyme and the CTAB, the repairing effect of the obtained mirabilis jalapa can be obviously reduced, namely, the mirabilis jalapa extract with the good repairing effect can be obtained only by matching the complex enzyme with the CTAB.
The potentilla discolor extract with good repairing effect can be obtained by adopting crushing, acid-assisted water extraction and alkyl glycoside-assisted extraction.
Example 2
A moisturizing repair composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.12 part of hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, 0.3 part of gluconolactone, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.3 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.6 part of allantoin, 0.4 part of potentilla discolor extract, 1 part of trehalose, 0.8 part of mirabilis jalapa extract, 1.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 laurate, 4 parts of decyl glucoside, 7 parts of glycerol and 83.48 parts of deionized water.
The preparation method of the mirabilis jalapa extract comprises the following steps:
s01, cleaning the whole mirabilis jalapa, drying, and crushing to 80 meshes to obtain mirabilis jalapa powder;
s02, adding mirabilis jalapa powder into deionized water, mixing uniformly to obtain slurry, adding complex enzyme and CTAB, reacting at 50 ℃ for 5h, heating to 80 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 12min for inactivation to obtain enzymatic hydrolysate; the weight ratio of the mirabilis jalapa powder to the deionized water to the composite enzyme to the CTAB is 1: 6: 0.03: 0.01;
s03, adding the enzymolysis liquid into an extraction kettle for extraction, wherein the pressure of the supercritical extraction is 22Mpa, the extraction temperature is 55 ℃, the extraction time is 90min, and CO is used for extracting2The flow rate of the fluid is 18kg/h to obtain the extract, and the extract is dried to obtain the mirabilis jalapa extract.
The compound enzyme is prepared from beta-glucosidase, pectinase and glucoamylase according to a weight ratio of 1: 1.2: 0.8.
The preparation method of the potentilla discolor extract comprises the following steps:
s11, cleaning the potentilla discolor whole grass, drying, and crushing to 100 meshes to obtain potentilla discolor powder;
s12, adding the discolor cinquefoil herb powder and the citric acid into deionized water, soaking for 70min, heating to 58 ℃, and preserving heat for 100min to obtain an extracting solution; the weight ratio of the discolor cinquefoil herb powder to the citric acid to the deionized water is 1: 0.03: 8.
s13, adding the extract and dodecyl glucoside into an extraction kettle for extraction, wherein the pressure of the supercritical extraction is 30Mpa, the extraction temperature is 48 DEG CExtraction time of 120min, CO2The flow rate of the fluid is 24kg/h to obtain an extract, and the extract is dried to obtain the potentilla discolor extract; the weight ratio of the extracting solution to the auxiliary agent is 1: 0.03.
the preparation method of the moisturizing and repairing composition comprises the following steps:
adding hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and polyglycerol-10 laurate into glycerol, heating to 60 ℃, uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 400rpm, adding deionized water, uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 500rpm, cooling to 40 ℃, adding gluconolactone, tocopheryl acetate, allantoin, potentilla discolor extract, trehalose, mirabilis jalapa extract and decyl glucoside, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 200rpm to obtain the moisturizing repair composition.
Example 3
A moisturizing repair composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.08 part of hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, 0.15 part of gluconolactone, 0.2 part of tocopherol acetate, 0.6 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.5 part of allantoin, 0.6 part of potentilla discolor extract, 0.9 part of trehalose, 0.9 part of mirabilis jalapa extract, 1 part of polyglycerol-10 laurate, 3.5 parts of decyl glucoside, 11 parts of glycerol and 80.57 parts of deionized water.
The preparation method of the mirabilis jalapa extract comprises the following steps:
s01, cleaning the whole mirabilis jalapa, drying, and crushing to 50 meshes to obtain mirabilis jalapa powder;
s02, adding mirabilis jalapa powder into deionized water, mixing uniformly to obtain slurry, adding complex enzyme and CTAB, reacting at 60 ℃ for 7h, heating to 85 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 10min for inactivation to obtain enzymatic hydrolysate; the weight ratio of the mirabilis jalapa powder to the deionized water to the composite enzyme to the CTAB is 1: 8: 0.02: 0.01;
s03, adding the enzymolysis liquid into an extraction kettle for extraction, wherein the pressure of the supercritical extraction is 25Mpa, the extraction temperature is 60 ℃, the extraction time is 100min, and CO is used for extraction2The flow rate of the fluid is 20kg/h to obtain the extract, and the extract is dried to obtain the mirabilis jalapa extract.
The compound enzyme is prepared from beta-glucosidase, pectinase and glucoamylase according to a weight ratio of 1: 0.6: 1.4.
The preparation method of the potentilla discolor extract comprises the following steps:
s11, cleaning the potentilla discolor whole grass, drying, and crushing to 60 meshes to obtain potentilla discolor powder;
s12, adding the discolor cinquefoil herb powder and the citric acid into deionized water, soaking for 50min, heating to 62 ℃, and preserving heat for 100min to obtain an extracting solution; the weight ratio of the discolor cinquefoil herb powder to the citric acid to the deionized water is 1: 0.04: 8.
s13, adding the extracting solution and dodecyl glucoside into an extraction kettle for extraction, wherein the supercritical extraction pressure is 30Mpa, the extraction temperature is 48 ℃, the extraction time is 120min, and CO is2The flow rate of the fluid is 24kg/h to obtain an extract, and the extract is dried to obtain the potentilla discolor extract; the weight ratio of the extracting solution to the auxiliary agent is 1: 0.03.
the preparation method of the moisturizing and repairing composition comprises the following steps:
adding hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and polyglycerol-10 laurate into glycerol, heating to 60 ℃, uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 400rpm, adding deionized water, uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 500rpm, cooling to 40 ℃, adding gluconolactone, tocopheryl acetate, allantoin, potentilla discolor extract, trehalose, mirabilis jalapa extract and decyl glucoside, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 200rpm to obtain the moisturizing repair composition.
Comparative example 1
Comparative example 1 differs from example 1 in that comparative example 1 does not contain the Mirabilis jalapa extract, and the rest are the same.
Comparative example 2
Comparative example 2 is different from example 1 in that the preparation method of the mirabilis jalapa extract in the comparative example 2 is different from example 1, and in the comparative example, single pectinase is adopted to replace the complex enzyme and CTAB, and the rest are the same.
The preparation method of the mirabilis jalapa extract comprises the following steps:
s01, cleaning the whole mirabilis jalapa, drying, and crushing to 60 meshes to obtain mirabilis jalapa powder;
s02, adding mirabilis jalapa powder into deionized water, uniformly mixing to obtain a slurry, adding pectinase, reacting for 6 hours at 55 ℃, heating to 85 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 10min for inactivation to obtain an enzymatic hydrolysate; the weight ratio of the mirabilis jalapa powder to the deionized water to the composite enzyme to the CTAB is 1: 8: 0.055;
s03, adding the enzymolysis liquid into an extraction kettle for extraction, wherein the pressure of the supercritical extraction is 25Mpa, the extraction temperature is 60 ℃, the extraction time is 100min, and CO is used for extraction2The flow rate of the fluid is 20kg/h to obtain the extract, and the extract is dried to obtain the mirabilis jalapa extract.
Comparative example 3
Comparative example 3 is different from example 1 in that the preparation method of the mirabilis jalapa extract in the comparative example 3 is different from example 1, and in the comparative example, a compound enzyme consisting of pectinase and saccharifying enzyme is used to replace the compound enzyme and CTAB in the example 1, and the rest is the same.
The preparation method of the mirabilis jalapa extract comprises the following steps:
s01, cleaning the whole mirabilis jalapa, drying, and crushing to 60 meshes to obtain mirabilis jalapa powder;
s02, adding mirabilis jalapa powder into deionized water, mixing uniformly to obtain slurry, adding a complex enzyme, reacting at 55 ℃ for 6h, heating to 85 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 10min for inactivation to obtain an enzymatic hydrolysate; the weight ratio of the mirabilis jalapa powder to the deionized water to the composite enzyme to the CTAB is 1: 8: 0.055;
s03, adding the enzymolysis liquid into an extraction kettle for extraction, wherein the pressure of the supercritical extraction is 25Mpa, the extraction temperature is 60 ℃, the extraction time is 100min, and CO is used for extraction2The flow rate of the fluid is 20kg/h to obtain the extract, and the extract is dried to obtain the mirabilis jalapa extract.
The compound enzyme is prepared from pectinase and glucoamylase according to a weight ratio of 1: 1.
Comparative example 4
Comparative example 4 is different from example 1 in that comparative example 1 does not contain the potentilla discolor extract, and the others are the same.
Comparative example 5
Comparative example 5 is different from example 1 in that the method for preparing the potentilla discolor extract described in comparative example 5 is different from example 1 in that citric acid is not used in S12 and an adjuvant (lauryl glucoside) is not used in S13, all of which are the same.
The preparation method of the potentilla discolor extract comprises the following steps:
s11, cleaning the discolor cinquefoil herb, drying, and crushing to 80 meshes to obtain discolor cinquefoil herb powder;
s12, adding the discolor cinquefoil herb powder and the citric acid into deionized water, soaking for 50min, heating to 60 ℃, and preserving heat for 120min to obtain an extracting solution; the weight ratio of the discolor cinquefoil herb powder to the citric acid to the deionized water is 1: 0.05: 9.
s13, adding the extracting solution and dodecyl glucoside into an extraction kettle for extraction, wherein the supercritical extraction pressure is 32Mpa, the extraction temperature is 50 ℃, the extraction time is 150min, and CO is2The flow rate of the fluid is 25kg/h to obtain an extract, and the extract is dried to obtain the potentilla discolor extract; the weight ratio of the extracting solution to the auxiliary agent is 1: 0.03.
to further demonstrate the effect of the present invention, the following test methods were provided:
1. 10 healthy women with age of 25-30 years without skin diseases are selected as test subjects, test areas (area 5cm × 5 cm) are determined on the left and right front arms of 70 test subjects, and the skin moisture content of the test areas of the test subjects is tested by using a skin stratum corneum moisture content tester (high-frequency conductivity tester Skicon 200), which is an initial value. After the moisturizing repair composition described in examples 1 to 3 was used correspondingly (2, 4, 6, 8 hours), the moisture content in the test area was measured by the same instrument and method, and the measurement results are test values, and the moisture content increase rate was calculated and shown in table 1.
The water content increase rate (%) was (test value water content-initial value water content)/initial value water content × 100%
TABLE 1 Water cut growth Rate
As can be seen from table 1, the moisturizing repair composition of the present invention has good moisturizing effect, wherein the moisturizing repair composition described in example 1 has the best moisturizing effect.
2. Change of skin moisture loss
Selecting 40 volunteers, dividing the volunteers into 8 groups, and detecting skin barrier function of 5 groups (respectively using the moisturizing repair compositions described in subsequent examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-5): the transcutaneous water loss (TEWL) was measured using the German CK company multi-probe skin test system MPA9, CM825 (moisture test probe) and TM300 (moisture loss test probe). The measurement is carried out under the conditions of constant temperature and constant humidity, a tested person cleans the skin to be tested before the detection and enters the testing environment for quiet test 30min in advance, and the testing supplementary positions are the left front arm and the right front arm.
The area under test (5 cm. times.5 cm) was marked 5cm inside the subject's arm from the base of the palm, and the same arm was marked 3 areas simultaneously (5 cm apart). The blank value of each test area is measured, and then the test sample is measured according to the ratio of 2.0mg/cm2The amount of the moisture-preserving repair composition is used for single coating (the moisture-preserving repair composition described in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-5), after 2 hours of coating, the water loss rate is tested by using the instrument, the average value is calculated, and the test result is shown in table 2.
The skin water dispersion loss reflects the change rule of the water dispersion of an experimental area along with time in a test period, and can represent the skin barrier repair function of a test sample, and the smaller the value of the water dispersion loss is, the less the water dispersion is, the stronger the skin repair capability is; conversely, the weaker the skin-repairing ability.
Water loss (%) - (sample component water dispersion-initial water dispersion)/initial water dispersion × 100%.
TABLE 2 Water loss
As can be seen from table 2, the moisturizing repair composition of the present invention has a good repairing effect and can effectively repair the skin barrier.
Compared with the examples 1 to 3, the repairing effect can be effectively improved by optimizing the proportion of the moisturizing and repairing composition and the preparation parameters of the mirabilis jalapa extract and the discolor cinquefoil extract, wherein the example 1 has the best repairing effect.
Compared with the comparative examples 1 and 1-3, the Mirabilis jalapa extract prepared by the method can effectively improve the repairing effect, and in the preparation method of the Mirabilis jalapa extract, if the complex enzyme and the CTAB are replaced by other enzymes, the repairing effect of the obtained Mirabilis jalapa extract is remarkably reduced, and the Mirabilis jalapa extract with good repairing effect can be obtained only by combining the complex enzyme and the CTAB.
Comparing example 1 with comparative examples 4 and 5, it can be seen that the potentilla discolor extract prepared by the invention can significantly improve the repairing effect, and the citric acid and the auxiliary agent are added in the preparation process to significantly improve the repairing effect of the potentilla discolor extract.
In light of the foregoing description of preferred embodiments according to the invention, it is clear that many changes and modifications can be made by the person skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the invention. The technical scope of the present invention is not limited to the contents of the specification, and must be determined according to the scope of the claims.