CN113262190B - External composition for resisting skin aging and application thereof - Google Patents
External composition for resisting skin aging and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/347—Phenols
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P29/00—Non-central analgesic, antipyretic or antiinflammatory agents, e.g. antirheumatic agents; Non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs [NSAID]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/005—Antimicrobial preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
Abstract
The invention discloses an anti-skin-aging external composition and application thereof, belonging to the technical field of daily cosmetics. The external composition is prepared from bletilla striata polysaccharide extract, bighead atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extract, ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract and lotus flavone extract in a mass ratio of 1-4: 1-6: 1-3: 1-3, the composition is prepared into emulsion for human skin, a stronger skin aging resistance effect is shown, a synergistic interaction effect is generated among the four extracts, and the skin aging resistance effect of the composition is obviously improved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of daily cosmetics, in particular to an external composition with an anti-skin aging effect, which is compounded by an atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract, a bletilla striata polysaccharide extract, an ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract and a lotus flavone extract, and an application thereof.
Background
Skin aging refers to aging caused by environmental factors such as light (sun exposure) and air pollution and lifestyle factors such as diet, sleep and exercise, and is mainly manifested by wrinkle, loose skin, roughness, yellowish or grayish yellow skin discoloration, telangiectasia, pigmentation spots, etc. Current research indicates that important means to combat skin aging are as follows:
1. and (5) moisturizing. The water retention capacity of the skin is reduced due to external environmental factors or genetic factors, the hydration state of the horny layer of the skin is further influenced, the physical properties of the skin are changed, the flexibility and the plasticity of the skin are reduced, and visible fine cracks appear on the surface of the skin. And the improvement of the water retention capacity of the skin can effectively keep the flexibility and plasticity of the skin, thereby reducing the formation of skin wrinkles and reducing the roughness of the skin.
2. And (4) oxidation resistance. Ultraviolet rays can excite a large number of natural ultraviolet ray chromophores existing in the skin, and the chromophore molecules absorb photon energy of the ultraviolet rays and then generate I-type or II-type photodynamic reaction with molecular oxygen in the skin, and excessive active oxygen is formed in the skin, so that the skin is aged. The natural antioxidant has good active oxygen scavenging ability, and can scavenge excessive active oxygen in skin tissue to maintain skin oxidative stress balance.
3. Anti-inflammatory. Environmental factors such as ultraviolet rays and air pollution or living habit factors such as staying up and unhealthy diet can induce skin to generate inflammatory reaction, promote skin aging, and even cause skin diseases such as acne, seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis and the like. Active ingredients in many natural products can reduce the level of skin inflammation by modulating the level of inflammation-associated molecules, thereby protecting skin health.
4. Regulating skin micro-ecology. Over 1000 billion different species of microorganisms are present on human skin. The skin micro-ecology is influenced by factors. Meanwhile, the skin micro-ecology also participates in a series of physiological processes of the skin to influence the health condition of the skin, and is closely related to the defense, repair, barrier action and the like of the skin. It has been shown that imbalance in skin micro-ecology is associated with skin problems such as skin aging, roughness, etc., and maintaining the balance of skin micro-ecology will help the skin to maintain a healthy state. For example, excess amounts of staphylococcus aureus can cause acne or pustules in the skin, while staphylococcus epidermidis can promote skin tissue repair.
Different natural products have different physiological activities. When multiple natural products are used simultaneously, if the actual activity effect is greater than the additive activity effect when the natural products are used alone, the synergistic effect exists among the natural products. The synergistic effect among different natural products is utilized, so that toxicity possibly caused by using a single natural product with an excessively high dose can be avoided, and after multiple natural products are compounded, stronger physiological activity can be exerted through the synergistic effect.
At present, there are reports of skin care compositions or products prepared by taking one or more of atractylodes, bletilla and ampelopsis as raw materials, but the following problems generally exist in the products: 1. crude plant extracts are mostly adopted in reports, but functional components derived from plants are not adopted; or main functional components in the composition or the product are not calibrated, so that the product has poor effect stability and even is ineffective; 2. many compositions or products incorporate radix Angelicae Dahuricae. The angelica dahurica is a plant component which is forbidden according to the regulations of cosmetic safety technical specifications in 2015 edition; 3. the action mechanism is single. The skin aging is related to a series of factors, such as skin barrier damage caused by skin dryness, skin peroxidation, skin inflammation, skin microecological imbalance and the like, and the currently reported composition or product has a single action mechanism, so that a plurality of active ingredients do not have synergistic effects, and the expected optimal anti-skin aging effect is difficult to achieve. The skin care products on the market are various, and different skin care products are provided for different skin problems. However, many consumers have a strong need for a skin care product that provides an overall improvement in the skin. Accordingly, the present invention provides an anti-skin aging external composition, which can be applied to skin care products or cosmetics, has excellent product stability and excellent anti-skin aging effect, and does not irritate the skin.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide an external composition with skin aging resistance, which can relieve skin aging caused by environmental factors such as sun exposure, air pollution and the like by playing the roles of moisturizing, oxidation resistance, inflammation resistance and skin micro-ecology regulation.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
an external composition for resisting skin aging is prepared from bletilla striata polysaccharide extract, bighead atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extract, ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract and lotus flower flavone extract in a mass ratio of 1-4: 1-6: 1-3: 1-3.
Bletilla striata (Bletilla striata Reichb) is a plant of Bletilla of perennial Orchidaceae, is rich in polysaccharide, and the polysaccharide is a neutral heteropolysaccharide mainly composed of beta- (1 → 4) -mannose, beta- (1 → 4) -glucose and alpha- (1 → 6) glucose residue, and has effects of inhibiting pathogenic bacteria and promoting proliferation of beneficial bacteria.
The bletilla striata polysaccharide extract is prepared by a hot water extraction method, and specifically, the preparation method of the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract comprises the following steps: pulverizing dried bletilla striata, and sieving with a 80-mesh sieve, wherein the bletilla striata powder is prepared by mixing bletilla striata powder with a raw material liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 10-20 mL of the extract with water of 40-70 ℃, extracting for 40-80 min, cooling the leaching solution to room temperature, centrifuging at 5000rpm for 10min, taking supernatant to obtain a bletilla striata polysaccharide extracting solution, and drying to obtain the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract. The content of polysaccharide (taking glucose as a standard substance) in the bletilla striata extract is detected to be 30-70% by adopting a sulfuric acid-phenol colorimetric method.
Preferably, the extraction conditions of the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract are as follows: the extraction temperature is 45-60 ℃, the extraction time is 50-60 min, and the polysaccharide content in the obtained bletilla striata polysaccharide extract is 40-70%; more preferably, the extraction conditions of the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 15mL, the extraction temperature is 50 ℃, the extraction time is 60min, and the polysaccharide content in the obtained bletilla striata polysaccharide extract is about 70%.
Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz is a perennial herb of Atractylodes of Compositae, contains abundant polysaccharides, and the polysaccharides mainly comprise heteropolysaccharide consisting of beta-D- (1 → 3) -glucose and beta- (1 → 3, 6) -glucose, has good water absorption, and can be used for skin moisture.
The atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract is prepared by a hot water extraction method, and specifically, the preparation method of the atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract comprises the following steps: crushing dried white atractylodes rhizome, sieving with a 80-mesh sieve, and mixing the raw materials according to a material-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 10-30 mL of the extract with water at 60-90 ℃, leaching for 60-120 min to obtain an bighead atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extracting solution, drying to obtain a bighead atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extract, and detecting the polysaccharide content (taking glucose as a standard substance) in the bletilla striata extract by a sulfuric acid-phenol colorimetric method to be 20-60%;
preferably, the extraction conditions of the atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 15-20 mL, the extraction temperature is 60-70 ℃, the extraction time is 90-120 min, and the polysaccharide content in the obtained atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract is 30-60%. More preferably, the extraction conditions of the atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 20mL, the extraction temperature is 65 ℃, the extraction time is 90min, and the polysaccharide content in the obtained rhizoma atractylodis macrocephalae polysaccharide extract is about 60%.
Ampelopsis japonica (Ampelopsis japonica Makino) is a vine of Ampelopsis of Vitaceae, and is rich in phenols, and its phenols mainly include gallic acid, galloyl glucose, emodin and catechin, and has antiinflammatory effect.
The ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract is prepared by an alcohol extraction method, and specifically, the preparation method of the ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract comprises the following steps: crushing dried ampelopsis japonica, sieving the crushed ampelopsis japonica through a 80-mesh sieve, and mixing the crushed ampelopsis japonica powder and the crushed ampelopsis japonica powder according to a feed-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 20-35 mL of the radix ampelopsis extract with an ethanol aqueous solution A with the concentration of 30% -65% at 50-70 ℃, leaching for 60-90 min to obtain an radix ampelopsis extract, passing the radix ampelopsis extract through D101 macroporous adsorption resin, eluting with 80% ethanol, collecting eluent, and drying the eluent to obtain the radix ampelopsis polyphenol extract. The content of total polyphenol (using gallic acid as a standard substance) in the ampelopsis japonica extract is detected to be 10-25% by adopting a forskolin phenol method. The high performance liquid chromatography is used for detecting that the content of the gallic acid in the ampelopsis polyphenol extract is 2-5 percent, and the content of the emodin is 2-6 percent.
Preferably, the extraction conditions of the ampelopsis polyphenol extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 25-35 mL, wherein the volume percentage concentration of ethanol in the ethanol aqueous solution A is 40-65%, the extraction temperature is 50-70 ℃, the extraction time is 60-90 min, the total polyphenol content in the obtained ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract is 15-20%, the content of gallic acid is 3-5%, and the content of emodin is 3-6%; more preferably, the extraction conditions of the ampelopsis polyphenol extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 30mL, the volume percentage concentration of ethanol in the ethanol water solution A is 55%, the extraction temperature is 60 ℃, the extraction time is 60min, and the total polyphenol content in the obtained ampelopsis japonica extract is about 25%, wherein the content of gallic acid is about 5%, and the content of emodin is about 6%.
Lotus (Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn.) is a perennial herb of Nelumbo of Nymphaeaceae, and contains abundant flavones and flavonoid substances such as quercetin and glycosides thereof, anthocyanidin and glycosides thereof, kaempferol and glycosides thereof, and research shows that the ingredients have antioxidant effect.
The lotus flower flavone extract is prepared by an alcohol extraction method, and specifically, the preparation method of the lotus flower flavone extract comprises the following steps: the lotus flowers are crushed and sieved by a 80-mesh sieve, and the lotus flower powder is prepared by mixing the following raw materials in a ratio of 1 g: mixing 10-25 mL of the extract with 40% -50% ethanol water solution B at 50-60 ℃, leaching for 30-90 min to obtain lotus flower extract, passing the lotus flower extract through AB-8 macroporous adsorption resin, eluting with 70% ethanol water solution, and drying the eluent to obtain the lotus flower flavone extract. The total flavone content (rutin is used as a standard substance) in the lotus flower extract is detected to be 5-20% by adopting an aluminum trichloride method, the quercetin glycoside content in the lotus flower flavone extract is detected to be 1-4% by adopting a high performance liquid chromatography, and the kaempferol glycoside content is detected to be 2-5%.
Preferably, the extraction conditions of the lotus flavone extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 15-25 mL, wherein the volume percentage concentration of ethanol in the ethanol aqueous solution B is 40-50%, the extraction temperature is 60 ℃, the extraction time is 60-90 min, and the total flavone content in the obtained lotus flower flavone extract is 10-20%, wherein the quercetin glycoside content is 3-4%, and the kaempferol glycoside content is 4-5%. More preferably, the extraction conditions of the lotus flavone extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 20mL, wherein the volume percentage concentration of ethanol in the ethanol water solution B is 50%, the extraction temperature is 60 ℃, the extraction time is 60min, and the total flavone content in the obtained lotus flavone extract is 20%, wherein the quercetin glycoside content is about 4%, and the kaempferol glycoside content is about 5%.
The research of the invention finds that compared with the single use, two-by-two compounding and three-by-three compounding of the four components, the composition compounded by the four components has a remarkably better anti-skin aging effect. In addition, compared with the composition compounded according to the proportion outside the range required by the invention, the composition compounded according to the proportion required by the invention has more remarkable anti-skin aging effect.
Research shows that the composition provided by the invention can effectively inhibit skin potential pathogenic bacteria (such as staphylococcus aureus) to promote the proliferation of staphylococcus epidermidis, and the staphylococcus epidermidis can relieve skin cell inflammatory reaction by secreting short-chain fatty acid; the polysaccharide in the composition has a good moisturizing effect, so that the integrity of a skin barrier can be protected, external pollutants are prevented from infecting the skin, and the occurrence of skin inflammation is reduced; the phenolic substances in the composition can effectively inhibit the activation of NF-kB channels in skin inflammation; the flavonoid substances can regulate the excessive active oxygen caused by exogenous pollutants through an Nrf2 antioxidant pathway, so as to relieve skin inflammation and reduce skin aging. The composition has good effects of keeping moisture, resisting oxidation, resisting inflammation and regulating skin micro-ecology, and can inhibit a series of key factors (skin barrier damage, inflammation, peroxidation, skin micro-ecology disorder, etc.) in skin aging process to achieve synergistic effect in inhibiting skin aging. In addition, the ampelopsis polyphenol extract and lotus flower brass extract contain a large amount of polyphenol substances, so that the ampelopsis polyphenol extract and lotus flower brass extract have strong oxidation resistance and free radical removal capacity, but the strong activity of the polyphenol substances can also cause irritation to sensitive skin, so that the sensitive skin is red and swollen, itchy and the like. The research of the invention discovers that when the bletilla polysaccharide extract, the white atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extract, the ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract and the lotus flower flavone extract are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1-4: 1-6: 1-3: 1-3, the irritation of polyphenol and other substances to the skin can be effectively avoided, and the red swelling, pruritus and other conditions to the skin sensitive people can not be generated. It is probably that the gel structure of the polysaccharide component in the composition can encapsulate the polyphenols and release the polyphenols slowly, thereby avoiding the skin allergic reaction caused by the direct contact of the polyphenols with the skin in high concentration.
The invention controls the effective content of each active component through adjusting process parameters so as to ensure the effectiveness of the composition in the aspect of resisting skin aging. The research result of the invention shows that the efficacy (antioxidation, anti-inflammation, etc.) of the extract is weaker if the concentration of the active ingredients in the extract is too low; the efficacy of the extract is gradually enhanced along with the increase of the concentration of the active ingredients in the extract; the concentration of active ingredients in the extract is too high, so that the efficacy of the extract is reduced and even has adverse effect; when the concentration of the active ingredients in each extract is within a suitable range, a synergistic effect is produced.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract, the white atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extract, the ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract and the lotus flower flavone extract is 2-3: 2-4: 2-3: 1-2, compounding.
More preferably, the weight ratio of the bletilla polysaccharide extract, the atractylodes polysaccharide extract, the ampelopsis polyphenol extract and the lotus flavone extract is 1: 1: 1:1, compounding.
The invention also provides an anti-skin-aging cosmetic or skin care product, which comprises a cosmetic auxiliary material matrix and the external composition, wherein the addition amount of the external composition in the cosmetic or skin care product is 1-10% by mass percentage.
Preferably, the external composition is added in an amount of 1 to 5% to the cosmetic or skin care product. The cosmetic or skin care product is in the form of lotion, spray, lotion, essence cream, foundation solution, concealer, cream or facial mask.
Specifically, the invention provides an external emulsion for resisting skin aging, wherein each 10g of the emulsion contains the following components: 2.5g of polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, 0.6g of cetyl alcohol, 4.2g of olive oil, 0.6g of glycerol, 1.8g of water and 0.3g of the external composition.
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing oil phase (polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, cetyl alcohol, and oleum Olivarum) and stirring; heating to 60-70 ℃, stirring at the speed of 3000-3500 r/min for 5-10 min, and preserving heat for later use;
(2) mixing the water phase (glycerol, water, composition) and stirring; heating to 60-70 ℃, and uniformly stirring for later use;
(3) adding the oil phase into the water phase, heating to 60-70 ℃, and stirring at a speed of 3000-3500 r/min for 5-10 min;
(4) and (4) stopping heating after sterilization, and stirring at 500-1000 r/min to cool the mixed phase to room temperature to obtain the emulsion.
Compared with the prior art, the technical scheme provided by the invention has the following advantages:
(1) the invention ensures the effect stability of the composition in the production and use processes by extracting the effective components in the bighead atractylodes rhizome, the bletilla striata, the ampelopsis japonica and the lotus flower.
(2) According to the invention, the polysaccharide extract of the white atractylodes rhizome, the polysaccharide extract of the bletilla striata, the polyphenol extract of the Japanese ampelopsis root and the lotus flower flavone extract are compounded, so that the composition has an obvious effect of resisting skin aging. The polysaccharide in the composition has good moisturizing effect and skin micro-ecology regulating effect, the phenolic substances can effectively relieve skin inflammation, and the flavone and flavonoid substances have strong antioxidant effect. The external composition prepared by compounding the four substances according to a certain proportion is prepared into emulsion and then applied to human skin, the effects of stronger moisture retention and skin roughness reduction are shown, the four extracts have a synergistic interaction effect, and the skin aging resistance of the composition is obviously improved.
(3) When the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract, the white atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extract, the ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract and the lotus flower flavone extract are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1-4: 1-6: 1-3: 1-3, the irritation of polyphenol and other substances to the skin can be effectively avoided, and the red swelling, pruritus and other conditions to the skin sensitive people can not be generated.
(4) The atractylodes macrocephala koidz or bletilla striata polysaccharide in the external composition has the functions of moisturizing, thickening and emulsifying, so that the composition can be used as a skin conditioner, a moisturizing agent, a thickening agent and an emulsifying agent when being used for preparing cosmetics. Meanwhile, the ampelopsis polyphenol and lotus flavonoid in the external composition can be used as a skin conditioner. Therefore, when preparing skin care products or cosmetics, the external composition provided by the invention can replace part of the moisturizing agent, the thickening agent and the emulsifying agent. The external composition is used in skin care products or cosmetics, so that the cost of the product is reduced, and the skin care effect of the product is improved.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the synergistic mechanism of the composition of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The claims of the present invention will be further described in detail with reference to the specific embodiments. However, these examples and comparative examples are only intended to illustrate the present invention in more detail, and do not constitute any limitation to the scope of the appended claims.
The test methods used in the following examples are all conventional methods unless otherwise specified; the materials, reagents and the like used are, unless otherwise specified, commercially available reagents and materials.
Example 1
Firstly, the extract is prepared as follows:
1. bletilla striata extract
Pulverizing dried rhizoma bletilla, sieving with 80 mesh sieve, mixing with 50 deg.C hot water at a ratio of 1:15(g/mL), and extracting in 50 deg.C water bath for 1 hr. And after the temperature of the leaching liquor is reduced to room temperature, centrifuging at 5000rpm for 10 minutes, and taking supernate to obtain extracting solution. Freeze drying rhizoma bletilla leaching solution to obtain rhizoma bletilla extract. The content of polysaccharide (glucose as standard substance) in rhizoma bletilla extract was 69.8% by using sulfuric acid-phenol colorimetric method.
2. Atractylodis rhizoma extract
Pulverizing dried Atractylodis rhizoma, sieving with 80 mesh sieve, mixing with 65 deg.C hot water at a ratio of 1:20(g/mL), and extracting in 65 deg.C water bath for 1.5 hr. And after the temperature of the leaching liquor is reduced to room temperature, centrifuging at 5000rpm for 10 minutes, and taking supernate to obtain extracting solution. Freeze drying Atractylodis rhizoma leaching solution to obtain Atractylodis rhizoma extract. The content of polysaccharide (glucose is used as standard substance) in the rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae extract is 58.9% by sulfuric acid-phenol colorimetric method.
3. Radix Ampelopsis extract
Crushing dried ampelopsis japonica, sieving the crushed ampelopsis japonica through a 80-mesh sieve, and mixing the crushed ampelopsis japonica powder and ampelopsis japonica powder according to a material-liquid ratio of 1: mixing 30(g/mL) and 55% ethanol at 60 ℃, extracting for 1 hour at 60 ℃, cooling the leaching liquor to room temperature, centrifuging at 5000rpm for 10 minutes, taking supernate to obtain an ampelopsis japonica extractive solution, passing the ampelopsis japonica extractive solution through D101 macroporous adsorption resin, eluting with 80% ethanol, collecting eluent, and drying the eluent to obtain the ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract. The content of total polyphenols in radix Ampelopsis extract (gallic acid is used as standard substance) is detected by adopting Folin phenol method to obtain radix Ampelopsis extract with total polyphenols content of 23.6%, wherein the content of gallic acid is about 4.82%, and the content of emodin is about 5.83%.
4. Lotus flower extract
Crushing the dried lotus flowers, sieving the crushed lotus flowers with a 80-mesh sieve, and mixing the crushed lotus flowers with the water according to a material-liquid ratio of 1:20(g/mL) was mixed with 50% ethanol at 60 ℃ and extracted at 60 ℃ for 1 hour. And after the temperature of the leaching liquor is reduced to room temperature, centrifuging at 5000rpm for 10 minutes, and taking supernate to obtain lotus flower extracting solution. Passing the flos Nelumbinis extract solution through AB-8 macroporous adsorbent resin, eluting with 70% ethanol water solution, and drying the eluate to obtain flos Nelumbinis flavone extract. The total flavone content in the lotus flower extract is detected by adopting an aluminum trichloride method (rutin is taken as a standard substance) to obtain the total flavone content in the lotus flower flavone extract of 19.8 percent, wherein the quercetin glycoside content is about 3.98 percent, and the kaempferol glycoside content is about 4.79 percent.
Mixing the obtained extracts to obtain an external composition with the effect of resisting exogenous skin aging, which is prepared by compounding bletilla striata extract, bighead atractylodes rhizome extract, Japanese ampelopsis root extract and lotus flower extract. The components of the traditional Chinese medicine composition are 1 part of bletilla extract, 1 part of bighead atractylodes rhizome extract, 1 part of radix ampelopsis extract and 1 part of lotus flower extract.
Comparative example 1
Comparative examples 1-1 to 1-15 were prepared by adjusting the preparation parameters of the extracts of example 1 according to the following table, and the composition ratios were the same as in example 1.
TABLE 1
Activity test example 1
80 healthy mice were randomly selected and evenly divided into a model group, an example 1 group, comparative example 1-1 groups, comparative example 1-2 groups, comparative example 1-3 groups, comparative example 1-4 groups, comparative example 1-5 groups, comparative example 1-6 groups, comparative example 1-7 groups, comparative example 1-8 groups, comparative example 1-9 groups, comparative example 1-10 groups, comparative example 1-11 groups, comparative example 1-12 groups, comparative example 1-13 groups, comparative example 1-14 groups, and comparative example 1-15 groups.
The hair on the back of the mouse is removed by using the depilatory cream, and the area is about 2x3cm 2 . And analyzing the roughness of the skin on the back of the mouse by adopting a MicroSkin II multifunctional skin mirror image analysis system. The daily dose is 400mJ/cm 2 UVB+2000mJ/cm 2 UVA irradiates the back of the mice once. After each irradiation, approximately 0.5mL of distilled water was applied to the model groups and approximately 0.5mL of a 50mg/mL solution of the corresponding composition was applied to each of the other groups. After 4 weeks, the mouse back skin roughness was analyzed by using a MicroSkin ii multifunctional skin mirror image analysis system, and the relative change of the skin roughness was ═ 100% (relative skin roughness after four weeks/relative skin roughness before application before first UVA + UVB irradiation-1%).
TABLE 2 relative variation of skin roughness on the back of mice in different groups
Note: p <0.05, P <0.01 compared to the UV-B model group;
the compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1-1 to 1-15 were able to alleviate rough skin in mice caused by UV irradiation. However, the compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1-1 to 1-5 are superior to those of comparative examples 1-6 to 1-10 in effect. The compositions of comparative examples 1-6 to 1-10 were superior to the compositions of comparative examples 1-11 to 1-15 in the effect of relieving rough skin. Therefore, the composition formed by combining the extracts prepared according to the patent requirement has better capability of resisting skin aging, and the composition prepared in the preferable range of the patent has better capability of resisting skin aging.
Example 2
(I) preparation of extract as in example 1.
And (II) mixing the obtained extracts to obtain the external composition with the effect of resisting skin aging, wherein the external composition is prepared by compounding a bletilla polysaccharide extract, a white atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extract, an ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract and a lotus flavone extract. The traditional Chinese medicine composition comprises, by weight, 1 part of bletilla striata polysaccharide extract, 1 part of bighead atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extract, 1 part of radix ampelopsis polyphenol extract and 1 part of lotus flower flavone extract.
And (III) taking the emulsion as an example, illustrating the application of the external composition in a skin care product and testing the influence of the external composition on the moisture retention, the micro ecology and the roughness of human skin.
An emulsion of a composition for external use is prepared from the following components in parts by weight:
oil phase: 2.5g of polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, 0.6g of cetyl alcohol and 4.2g of olive oil;
water phase: 0.6g of glycerin, 1.8g of water, and 0.3g of the composition in (II);
the preparation method comprises the following steps:
1. mixing the oil phase and stirring uniformly; heating to 65 ℃, stirring at 3000r/min for 5-10 min, and keeping the temperature for later use;
2. mixing the water phases and stirring uniformly; heating to 65 ℃, and uniformly stirring for later use;
3. adding the oil phase into the water phase, heating to 65 ℃, and stirring at the speed of 3000r/min for 5-10 min;
4. and (4) stopping heating after sterilization, and stirring at 500r/min to cool the mixed phase to room temperature to obtain the emulsion.
Comparative example 2
Comparative examples 2-0 to 2-1-14 were prepared by adjusting the preparation parameters of the extracts of example 2 as follows.
TABLE 3 preparation parameters for comparative examples 2-0 to 2-1-14
Comparative examples 2-2-1 to 2-2-9 were prepared by adjusting the preparation parameters of the extracts of example 2 as follows.
TABLE 4 preparation parameters for comparative examples 2-2-1 to 2-2-9
Comparative examples 2-3-1 to 2-3-7 were prepared by adjusting the preparation parameters of the extracts of example 2 as follows.
TABLE 5 preparation parameters for comparative examples 2-3-1 to 2-3-7
Activity test example 2
1. The compositions were prepared as emulsions to test the effects of the compounded compositions on moisturizing, regulating human skin microorganisms, and skin roughness.
The subjects with no scars, damages and known severe allergy history of skin care products are selected. The subjects were randomly and equally divided into groups of example 2, comparative examples 2 to 0, comparative examples 2-1 to 1, comparative examples 2-1 to 2, comparative examples 2-1 to 3, comparative examples 2-1 to 4, comparative examples 2-1 to 5, comparative examples 2-1 to 6, comparative examples 2-1 to 7, comparative examples 2-1 to 8, comparative examples 2-1 to 9, comparative examples 2-1 to 10, comparative examples 2-1 to 11, comparative examples 2-1 to 12, comparative examples 2-1 to 13, comparative examples 2-1 to 14, comparative examples 2-2 to 1, comparative examples 2-2 to 2, comparative examples 2-2 to 3, Comparative example 2-2-4 sets, comparative example 2-2-5 sets, comparative example 2-2-6 sets, comparative example 2-2-7 sets, comparative example 2-2-8 sets, comparative example 2-2-9 sets. The skin patch test of human body was performed according to the procedure in "technical standards for cosmetic safety" to test the sensitivity of the examples and comparative examples to human skin. The result judgment criteria were: level 0: no obvious sensitive reaction; level 1: suspicious reactions, only faint erythema; and 2, stage: weak positive reaction, erythema and slight pruritus of skin; and 3, level: strong positive reaction, a large amount of erythema and increased skin pruritus; grade 4, extremely positive reaction, erythema, edema, herpes fusiformis, and skin pruritus, and the reaction exceeds the tested area. The results are shown in Table 6.
Selecting healthy women with the age of 30-60, the facial wrinkle depth of 90-110 mu m, no scars or damages to the skin, obvious wrinkles on the face and no known serious allergy history of skin care products. The subjects were randomly and equally divided into groups of example 2, comparative examples 2 to 0, comparative examples 2-1 to 1, comparative examples 2-1 to 2, comparative examples 2-1 to 3, comparative examples 2-1 to 4, comparative examples 2-1 to 5, comparative examples 2-1 to 6, comparative examples 2-1 to 7, comparative examples 2-1 to 8, comparative examples 2-1 to 9, comparative examples 2-1 to 10, comparative examples 2-1 to 11, comparative examples 2-1 to 12, comparative examples 2-1 to 13, comparative examples 2-1 to 14, comparative examples 2-2 to 1, comparative examples 2-2 to 2, comparative examples 2-2 to 3, Comparative example 2-2-4 sets, comparative example 2-2-5 sets, comparative example 2-2-6 sets, comparative example 2-2-7 sets, comparative example 2-2-8 sets, comparative example 2-2-9 sets.
After the test subject cleans the face in the morning and evening, the soybean product is uniformly smeared on the face, and after 3 months, the wrinkle depth of the face is analyzed by a rapid optical three-dimensional imaging system Primos-lite of the skin. The relative change of the skin roughness of a subject before and after use is determined by using a MicroSkin II multifunctional skin mirror image analysis system, wherein the relative change of the skin roughness is (the relative roughness of the skin after smearing/the relative roughness of the skin before smearing-1) multiplied by 100 percent. The facial wrinkle depth and the skin roughness are taken as indexes for representing the skin aging degree. Data from the experiments were analyzed for variance by SPSS statistical software and the results are expressed as (mean. + -. standard error) and counted between groups using the t-test. The results are shown in Table 7.
TABLE 6 evaluation of sensitivity of different groups of subjects to test substances
TABLE 7 relative variation of wrinkle depth and skin roughness for different groups of subjects
Note: p compared with comparative examples 2-0<0.05，**P<0.01; in comparison with the group of example 1, # P<0.05， ## P<0.01
as can be seen from table 6, the emulsion containing only the ampelopsis polyphenol extract or the lotus flower flavone extract has a large irritation to the skin when used alone. The skin irritation can be greatly reduced by using the emulsion containing rhizoma bletilla polysaccharide extract or Atractylodis rhizoma polysaccharide extract. After the four extracts are compounded according to the proportion of the patent, the irritation of the emulsion to the skin can be greatly reduced.
As can be seen from table 7, example 2 significantly improved skin wrinkle depth. The emulsion which is singly added with the bletilla polysaccharide extract, the atractylodes polysaccharide extract, the ampelopsis polyphenol extract and the lotus flavone extract or a composition compounded by two or two of the bletilla polysaccharide extract, the atractylodes polysaccharide extract, the ampelopsis polyphenol extract and the lotus flavone extract does not obviously improve the skin wrinkle depth. The effect of reducing the skin wrinkle depth of the group 2 in the embodiment is about 2-5 times that of the group 2-0-2-1-14 in the comparative example, which shows that the composition has synergistic effect on regulating the skin micro-ecology by compounding the four extracts. The embodiment 2 and the comparative examples 2-2-1 to 2-2-3 have better capability of improving the wrinkle depth of the skin, and the effect of the skin wrinkle improvement agent is obviously better than that of the comparative examples 2-2-4 to 2-2-9. The wrinkle depth capability of comparative examples 2-2-4 to 2-2-6 is significantly better than the effect of comparative examples 2-2-7 to 2-2-9. Thus, the composition ratio in the range claimed in the patent has more excellent capability of improving the wrinkle depth, while the composition ratio in the range preferred in the patent has significantly more capability of improving the wrinkle depth.
As can be seen from table 7, example 2 significantly reduced skin roughness. In the emulsion which is singly added with the bletilla polysaccharide extract, the atractylodes polysaccharide extract, the ampelopsis polyphenol extract and the lotus flavone extract or the composition compounded by two or two of the bletilla polysaccharide extract, the atractylodes polysaccharide extract, the ampelopsis polyphenol extract and the lotus flavone extract, the skin roughness is not reduced in some comparative examples. The relative variation of the skin roughness of the group in the example 2 is reduced by 1-6 times, which shows that the combination of the four extracts can lead the composition to have synergistic effect on the capability of relieving skin aging (relieving rough skin).
The skin roughness reducing effect of the embodiment 2 and the comparative examples 2-2-1 to 2-2-3 is remarkably superior to that of the comparative examples 2-2-4 to 2-2-9. The comparative examples 2-2-4 to 2-2-6 are significantly superior in the effect of reducing skin roughness to the comparative examples 2-2-7 to 2-2-9. It follows that compositions in the range claimed have a significantly greater capacity to reduce skin roughness, whereas compositions in the range preferred in this patent have a significantly greater capacity to reduce skin roughness.
2. Emulsions of various composition additions were prepared to test the effect of the addition on the anti-skin aging effect of the emulsions.
The subjects were randomly and equally divided into the example 2 group, the comparative example 2-3-1 group, the comparative example 2-3-2 group, the comparative example 2-3-3 group, the comparative example 2-3-4 group, the comparative example 2-3-5 group, the comparative example 2-3-6 group, and the comparative example 2-3-7 group.
The subjects applied the test substance of the corresponding group (normal control group applied with water only) to the same part of the inner side of the arm every day. The relative change of the skin roughness of a subject before and after use is determined by using a MicroSkin II multifunctional skin mirror image analysis system, wherein the relative change of the skin roughness is (relative roughness of skin after smearing/relative roughness of skin before smearing-1) multiplied by 100 percent. The roughness of the skin is used as an index for representing the aging degree of the skin. Data from the experiments were analyzed for variance by SPSS statistical software and the results are expressed as (mean. + -. standard error) and counted between groups using the t-test.
TABLE 8 relative change in skin roughness of different groups of subjects
| Relative change in skin roughness (%) | |
| EXAMPLE 2 group | -24.58±1.32 ** |
| Comparative examples 2 to 0 groups | -5.10±0.43 |
| Comparative examples 2-3-1 groups | -5.92±0.21 ##,** |
| Comparative examples 2-3-2 groups | -22.28±1.26 ** |
| Comparative examples 2-3-3 groups | -21.54±1.43 ** |
| Comparative examples 2-3-4 groups | -13.23±0.69 ##,** |
| Comparative examples 2-3-5 groups | -12.51±0.73 ##,** |
| Comparative examples 2-3-6 groups | -10.01±0.52 ## |
| Comparative examples 2-3-7 groups | -9.38±0.28 ## |
Note: compared with the comparative examples 2-0 groups, * P<0.05， ** P<0.01; in comparison with the group of example 1, # P<0.05， ## P<0.01。
the effect of relieving the skin roughness of the emulsion in the range required by the patent is 1-2 times of the effect of relieving the skin roughness of the emulsion outside the range required by the patent, wherein the effect of relieving the skin roughness of the emulsion in the preferred range is the best.
Finally, it is also noted that the above list is only a few specific examples and comparative examples of the present invention. It is apparent that the present invention is not limited to the above examples and comparative examples, and many modifications are possible. All modifications which can be derived or derived directly from the disclosure of the invention by a person skilled in the art are to be considered within the scope of the invention.
Claims (8)
1. The external composition for resisting skin aging is characterized by comprising bletilla striata polysaccharide extract, bighead atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extract, ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract and lotus flower flavone extract in a mass ratio of 1-4: 1-6: 1-3: 1-3 are compounded;
the preparation method of the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract comprises the following steps: mixing bletilla striata powder according to the ratio of 1g to liquid: mixing 10-20 mL of the extract with water at the temperature of 40-70 ℃, extracting for 40-80 min, and drying the leaching liquor to obtain a bletilla polysaccharide extract, wherein the polysaccharide content in the extract is 30-70%;
the preparation method of the atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract comprises the following steps: crushing the bighead atractylodes rhizome, and mixing the materials according to a material-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 10-30 mL of the extract with water at the temperature of 60-90 ℃, leaching for 60-120 min to obtain an extract of the bighead atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide, and drying to obtain an extract of the bighead atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide, wherein the polysaccharide content in the extract is 20-60%;
the preparation method of the ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract comprises the following steps: crushing the ampelopsis japonica, and mixing the following raw materials according to a material-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 20-35 mL of the extract with 30-65% ethanol water solution A at 50-70 ℃, leaching for 60-90 min to obtain an Ampelopsis japonica extractive solution, passing the Ampelopsis japonica extractive solution through D101 macroporous adsorption resin, eluting with 80% ethanol, collecting eluent, and drying the eluent to obtain an Ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract, wherein the total polyphenol content in the extract is 10-25%, the gallic acid content is 2-5%, and the emodin content is 2-6%;
the preparation method of the lotus flavone extract comprises the following steps: the lotus powder is prepared by mixing lotus powder and liquid according to the ratio of 1 g: 10-25 mL of the extract is mixed with 40% -50% ethanol water solution B at 50-60 ℃, the mixture is extracted for 30-90 min to obtain lotus flower extract, the lotus flower extract passes through AB-8 macroporous adsorption resin, is eluted by 70% ethanol water solution, and the eluent is dried to obtain lotus flower flavone extract, wherein the total flavone content in the extract is 5% -20%, the quercetin glycoside content is 1% -4%, and the kaempferol glycoside content is 2% -5%;
the composition can be used for relieving skin aging by exerting its moisturizing, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin micro-ecological effects.
2. The external composition for resisting skin aging according to claim 1, wherein the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract is extracted under the following conditions: the extraction temperature is 45-60 ℃, the extraction time is 50-60 min, and the polysaccharide content in the bletilla polysaccharide extract is 40-70%;
the extraction conditions of the atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 15-20 mL, the extraction temperature is 60-70 ℃, the extraction time is 90-120 min, and the polysaccharide content in the obtained atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract is 30-60%;
the extraction conditions of the ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 25-35 mL, wherein the volume percentage concentration of ethanol in the ethanol aqueous solution A is 40-65%, the extraction temperature is 50-70 ℃, the extraction time is 60-90 min, the total polyphenol content in the obtained radix ampelopsis polyphenol extract is 15-20%, the content of gallic acid is 3-5%, and the content of emodin is 3-6%;
the extraction conditions of the lotus flower flavone extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 15-25 mL, wherein the volume percentage concentration of ethanol in the ethanol water solution B is 40-50%, the extraction temperature is 60 ℃, the extraction time is 60-90 min, and the total flavone content in the obtained lotus flower flavone extract is 10-20%, wherein the quercetin glycoside content is 3-4%, and the kaempferol glycoside content is 4-5%.
3. The external composition for resisting skin aging according to claim 2, wherein the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract is extracted under the following conditions: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 15mL, the extraction temperature is 50 ℃, and the extraction time is 60 min;
the extraction conditions of the atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 20mL, the extraction temperature is 65 ℃, and the extraction time is 90 min;
the extraction conditions of the ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 30mL, wherein the volume percentage concentration of ethanol in the ethanol water solution A is 55%, the extraction temperature is 60 ℃, and the extraction time is 60 min;
the extraction conditions of the lotus flower flavone extract are as follows: 1g of feed-liquid ratio: 20mL, wherein the volume percentage concentration of ethanol in the ethanol water solution B is 50%, the extraction temperature is 60 ℃, and the extraction time is 60 min.
4. The composition for external use for resisting skin aging according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight ratio of the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract, the white atractylodes rhizome polysaccharide extract, the ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract and the lotus flower flavone extract is 2-3: 2-4: 2-3: 1-2, compounding.
5. The composition for external use for skin aging resistance according to claim 4, wherein the weight ratio of the bletilla striata polysaccharide extract, the atractylodes macrocephala polysaccharide extract, the ampelopsis japonica polyphenol extract and the lotus flower flavone extract is 1: 1: 1:1, compounding.
6. An anti-skin aging cosmetic is characterized by comprising a cosmetic auxiliary material matrix and the external composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the external composition is added into the cosmetic in an amount of 1 to 10% by mass.
7. The anti-skin-aging cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the external composition is added in an amount of 1 to 5%.
8. The cosmetic for skin aging resistance according to claim 6, wherein the formulation of the cosmetic is in the form of a lotion, a spray, a lotion, a serum, a cream, a foundation, a concealer or a mask.
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