CN114948815B - Sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN114948815B
CN114948815B CN202210647276.3A CN202210647276A CN114948815B CN 114948815 B CN114948815 B CN 114948815B CN 202210647276 A CN202210647276 A CN 202210647276A CN 114948815 B CN114948815 B CN 114948815B
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powder
extract
parts
corn starch
sun
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CN114948815A (en
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赵文渊
王波
王煜
陈家丽
刘云颖
王正德
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Inner Mongolia University of Science and Technology
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Inner Mongolia University of Science and Technology
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279Porous; Hollow
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P37/00Drugs for immunological or allergic disorders
    • A61P37/08Antiallergic agents
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/84Products or compounds obtained by lyophilisation, freeze-drying
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

Abstract

The invention provides sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants and a preparation method thereof, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 75-80 parts of porous corn starch; 5-6 parts of trollius chinensis bunge extract; 0.5-5 parts of cistanche extract; 0.5-5 parts of glycyrrhizin; 2-15 parts of loose powder matrix auxiliary materials; 2-8 parts of an auxiliary agent; 20-50 parts of a solvent. Wherein, the trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche salsa extract and glycyrrhizin can strengthen the ultraviolet resistance and antioxidation of the powder, cooperatively inhibit the release of skin sensitization substance histamine and relieve skin anaphylactic reaction. The porous corn starch is powder particles modified by biological enzyme and having a porous structure, and can effectively load the active molecules. After the powder is made up, the porous corn starch powder can continuously absorb sebum secreted by skin while slowly releasing active molecules, so that the mild and long-acting sun-proof anti-aging skin-nourishing and skin-conditioning powder is prepared. Further simplifying the cosmetic steps and reducing the skin burden.

Description

Sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The powder for fixing makeup is a common cosmetic for face makeup, is mainly applied after foundation liquid or foundation cream and is used for beautifying and finishing, so that the face presents matte transparent skin color, meanwhile, the problems of greasy feeling and makeup removal of the face caused by late sweat and sebum secretion are reduced, and the makeup holding time is effectively prolonged.
The existing commercially available powder for fixing cosmetics uses inorganic minerals such as talcum powder as main raw materials, and the additive amount of the powder is 60-85wt% for absorbing facial grease and preventing makeup removal. However, the cosmetic powder sold in the market at present basically has no sun protection and skin care effects, so that sun protection cream must be applied before makeup in order to prevent the damage caused by ultraviolet rays. The sun protection component of the sun protection cream also depends on metal oxides or chemicals, and is not friendly to the skin. The sun cream and the make-up powder can be used together to make the make-up feel thick and greasy, and long-term make-up can cause pores to be blocked, allergy and skin barrier damage, and finally cause skin problems such as darkness, acne and the like.
In conclusion, how to prepare the make-up powder with sun protection, oxidation resistance and hyposensitization by taking natural herbaceous plants as main sun protection components is a problem to be solved by the person skilled in the art.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants, which is prepared from porous corn starch, trollius chinensis extract, cistanche extract, glycyrrhizin and powder matrix auxiliary materials as main components, wherein auxiliary materials can be added according to the performance requirements of the blended powder to enhance the effect. The main functional components used in the invention are natural herbal plant extracts, so that the skin care cream has the effects of mildly protecting and maintaining the skin, can resist ultraviolet rays effectively, and can also produce the effects of resisting oxidation and resisting sensitization. Thereby realizing the purposes of simplifying the cosmetic steps and reducing the skin burden.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: the composite material comprises the following components in parts by weight: 75-80 parts of porous corn starch; 5-6 parts of trollius chinensis bunge extract; 0.5-5 parts of cistanche extract; 0.5-5 parts of glycyrrhizin; 2-15 parts of loose powder matrix auxiliary materials; 2-8 parts of an auxiliary agent; 20-50 parts of a solvent.
In a preferred embodiment, the sun-proof make-up powder uses trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche salsa extract and glycyrrhizin loaded on the surface and the inside of porous corn starch as active molecules, and the prepared sun-proof make-up powder has fine powder quality and D 50 =14.8 μm, DPPH clearance of 59.6%, and oil absorption rate was still 50% or more after 10 hours of makeup.
In a preferred embodiment, the porous corn starch is prepared by the steps of:
uniformly mixing superfine corn starch and biological enzyme to obtain mixed powder, dispersing the mixed powder in ethanol solution, fully reacting in an intermittent ultrasonic mode, and freeze-drying after the reaction is finished to obtain the superfine corn starch with a porous structure.
In a preferred embodiment, the superfine corn starch has an average particle size D 50 ≤10μm;
The biological enzyme comprises one or more of saccharifying enzyme, alpha-amylase and glucoamylase;
the mass ratio of the superfine corn starch to the biological enzyme is (1-500): 1.
in a preferred embodiment, the mass fraction of the ethanol solution is 70-90%;
the mass ratio of the mixed powder to the ethanol solution is 1:1.
In a preferred embodiment, the intermittent ultrasound specific operation is: standing at 25-60deg.C for 1-48 hr, and dispersing with ultrasound every 50 min for 1-30min.
In a preferred embodiment, the powder matrix auxiliary material comprises one or two of pearl powder and mica powder;
the auxiliary agent comprises a powder phase auxiliary agent and an oil phase auxiliary agent;
the solvent is ethanol solution with the mass fraction of 70% -90%.
In a preferred embodiment, the powder phase booster comprises one or both of a skin feel modifier and a colorant; the oil phase auxiliary agent comprises one or more of an emollient, a fragrance and a preservative.
In a preferred embodiment, the skin feel modifier comprises one or more of silica, polydimethylsiloxane, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane, polymethyl methacrylate, polyurethane, trimethylol hexyl lactone crosslinked polymer;
the colorant comprises one or more of zinc oxide, CI77163, CI 77346, CI 77492, and CI 75492;
the emollient comprises one or more of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 12- (stearyl) alkoxystearyl-2-stearyl ester, and hydrogenated polydecane;
the essence comprises one or more of 3-methoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone (acetoin), convallaria, farnesol, citral, menthol, rosehip oil, tangerine oil and spearmint oil;
the preservative comprises one or more of phenoxyethanol, sodium dehydroacetate, sodium benzoate and sorbitan octoate.
The invention further aims at providing a preparation method of the sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants. The preparation method is simple and efficient, can be completed only by blending at room temperature, has low requirements on equipment and environment, and is particularly suitable for large-scale industrial production and preparation.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention provides a preparation method of sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants, which comprises the following steps:
s1, dispersing trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche salsa extract and glycyrrhizin in a solvent, adding porous corn starch after all the trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche salsa extract and glycyrrhizin are dissolved, mixing for 1-12 hours at room temperature until the color of a mixed solution becomes light, and freeze-drying to obtain a powder matrix;
s2, adding matrix auxiliary materials and powder phase auxiliary agents into the powder matrix of the powder obtained in the step S1, and grinding and uniformly mixing to obtain powder;
s3, uniformly mixing the powder with an oil phase auxiliary agent to obtain the sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants.
Compared with the prior art, the technical scheme of the invention has the following advantages:
1. according to the invention, the trollius chinensis extract and cistanche deserticola extract can be mixed to synergistically resist the damage of UVA and UVB to skin, so that the make-up powder has a sun-proof effect, and further, the make-up powder has an antioxidation effect. The glycyrrhizin and the trollius chinensis bunge extract can synergistically influence a plurality of biological metabolism channels, so that the effects of inhibiting skin allergy and inflammation and stabilizing skin are achieved.
2. In the invention, the porous corn starch can effectively absorb sebum secreted by skin, and slowly release herbaceous active factors, so that the powder has mild and long-acting sun-screening and make-up functions.
3. The main functional components used in the invention are natural herbaceous plants or extracts thereof, have the effects of mildly protecting and curing skin, effectively resist ultraviolet rays and simultaneously can generate the effects of resisting oxidation and resisting sensitization. Compared with the traditional talcum powder, the powder matrix auxiliary material is milder and safer, and can effectively improve the oil control capability, reduce color cast and increase skin glossiness after being compounded with the porous corn starch.
Drawings
These and/or other aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent and more readily appreciated from the following detailed description of the embodiments of the invention, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein:
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the comparison of porous corn starch prepared in example 1 of the present invention before and after adsorption of trollius chinensis extract, cistanche deserticola extract and glycyrrhizin;
FIG. 2 is a distribution diagram of the powder particle size of the sunscreen make-up powder prepared in example 1 of the present invention;
fig. 3 shows the ultraviolet blocking effect of the sunscreen make-up powder prepared in example 1 of the present invention and the commercial make-up powder.
Detailed Description
For a better understanding of the present invention, those skilled in the art will now make further details with reference to the drawings and the detailed description, but it should be understood that the scope of the invention is not limited by the detailed description.
The embodiment of the invention solves the problems that the powder in the prior art is mainly talcum powder, does not have the functions of sun protection and skin care and is easy to sensitize by providing the sun protection and skin care powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants and the preparation method thereof.
The technical scheme of the invention aims to solve the problems, and the general idea is as follows:
in order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 75-80 parts of porous corn starch; 5-6 parts of trollius chinensis bunge extract; 0.5-5 parts of cistanche extract; 0.5-5 parts of glycyrrhizin; 2-15 parts of loose powder matrix auxiliary materials; 2-8 parts of an auxiliary agent; 20-50 parts of a solvent.
In the invention, the porous corn starch particles can absorb redundant grease and increase the refreshing feeling of the make-up surface. Corn starch contains glucopyranose molecules, a certain amount of proteins, trace elements and the like, can balance the pH value of skin, effectively nourish the skin and keep the skin moist for a relatively mild and long time. The porous corn starch particles can also adsorb trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche deserticola extract and glycyrrhizin on the surface and inside by physical adsorption or hydrogen bond formation with glycoside on the surface. The porous corn starch particles can be ensured to release active molecules on the skin surface continuously, and the effect of long-acting skin care is achieved.
The flos Trollii extract is selected from petals of flos Trollii with short petal, is rich in active ingredients such as flavone, orientin, phenylpropanoid and compound polyphenol OPC, and has strong absorption, antioxidation and antibacterial effects of sun protection (UVA, 320-400 nm). The trollius chinensis bunge extract is fully loaded on the surface and the inner holes of the porous corn starch, a physical sun-proof layer is firstly formed on the surface of the skin when the powder is made up, and more trollius chinensis bunge extract is slowly released from the porous corn starch particles along with the increase of the make-up holding time so as to enhance the long-acting ultraviolet-resistant effect. The cistanche extract is selected from cistanche rhizomes, is rich in the beneficial components such as phenylethanoid glycosides, polysaccharides, flavone and alkaloids, can remove hydroxyl free radicals and superoxide anions, has strong absorption in medium-wave ultraviolet rays (UVB, 280-320 nm), and has remarkable antioxidation, sun protection and moisture preservation effects.
The flos Trollii extract and herba cistanches extract can synergistically resist UVA and UVB damage to skin. In the trollius chinensis bunge extract, flavone and compound polyphenol OPC can remove hydroxyl free radicals and superoxide anions, orientin can improve the activity of antioxidase such as Catalase (CAT) and the like, and can effectively inhibit skin lipid oxidation; the phenylethanoid glycosides and polysaccharides in cistanche salsa can remove superoxide anions, improve superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity, inhibit synthesis of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), so that extracts of two herbaceous plants can resist oxidation and inhibit skin aging through a plurality of biological metabolism channels.
Glycyrrhizin has antiallergic effect (inhibition rate of hyaluronidase > 80%). The flavonoid glycoside compounds in flos Trollii can influence the activity of functional enzymes such as apoptosis signal regulating kinase 1 (ASK 1) in inflammatory process, and inhibit inflammation. The glycyrrhizin and the trollius chinensis extract synergistically influence a plurality of biological metabolism channels, so that the effects of inhibiting skin allergy and inflammation and maintaining and stabilizing skin are achieved.
In conclusion, the trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche salsa extract and glycyrrhizin can be compounded to enhance the ultraviolet resistance and antioxidation of the cosmetic powder, and cooperatively inhibit the release of skin sensitization substance histamine, so that skin allergy is relieved to a certain extent.
In a preferred embodiment, the powder matrix auxiliary material comprises one or both of pearl powder and mica powder, more preferably, the average particle size of the pearl powder is 80nm-15 μm and the average particle size of the mica powder is 1 μm-20 μm; the particle size of the powder matrix auxiliary material in the range is smaller, the fusion property with the porous corn starch is better, the prepared powder is fine and smooth, and the powder is more attached to the skin surface, so that the oil control effect can be further improved.
The powder matrix auxiliary materials are selected from pearl powder and/or mica powder, and can be mixed with porous corn starch to form powder matrix. Wherein, the pearl powder can make the makeup look have a healthy luster; in addition, the pearl powder is rich in various amino acids and microelements such as glutamic acid, and the like, so that the activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD) can be improved, and the pearl powder can moisten and nourish skin, whiten and fade spots after long-term use. The cosmetic-grade muscovite can not only promote the lubrication feeling of the powder, but also correct the color deviation of the sun-proof make-up powder caused by flavonoid natural pigment.
Therefore, the main functional components used in the invention are natural herbaceous plants or extracts thereof, have the effects of mildly protecting and caring skin, effectively resist ultraviolet rays and simultaneously can generate the effects of resisting oxidation and resisting sensitization. Compared with the traditional talcum powder, the powder matrix auxiliary material is milder and safer, and the compound porous corn starch can effectively improve the oil control capability, reduce color cast and increase skin glossiness.
In a preferred embodiment, the sun-proof make-up powder uses trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche salsa extract and glycyrrhizin loaded on the surface and the inside of porous corn starch as active molecules, and the prepared sun-proof make-up powder has fine powder quality and D 50 =14.8μm,D 90 =33.7 μm, DPPH clearance of 59.6%, and oil absorption rate was still 50% or more after 10 hours of makeup.
In a preferred embodiment, the porous corn starch is prepared by the steps of:
uniformly mixing superfine corn starch and biological enzyme to obtain mixed powder, dispersing the mixed powder in ethanol solution, fully reacting in an intermittent ultrasonic mode, and freeze-drying after the reaction is finished to obtain the superfine corn starch with a porous structure.
In a preferred embodiment, the superfine corn starch has an average particle size D 50 ≤10μm。
In a preferred embodiment, the biological enzyme comprises one or more of a saccharifying enzyme, an alpha-amylase, a glucoamylase; more preferably, the mass ratio of saccharifying enzyme, alpha-amylase and glucoamylase is 1: (0.1-10): (0.1-10).
In a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio of the ultra-fine corn starch to the biological enzyme is (1-500): 1, more preferably, the mass ratio of the superfine corn starch to the biological enzyme is (10-100): 1, controlling the mass ratio of the superfine corn starch and the biological enzyme can fully form a pore structure on the surface and inside of the corn starch in the range, which is beneficial to the filling of herbaceous plant molecules during the preparation of the powder.
In a preferred embodiment, the mass fraction of the ethanol solution is 70-90%.
In a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio of the mixed powder to the ethanol solution is 1:1.
In the invention, the porous corn starch is a biological enzyme modified powder particle with a porous structure, and can effectively load various active molecules. After the powder is made up, the porous corn starch powder can continuously absorb sebum secreted by skin while slowly releasing active molecules; it contains abundant amino acid components, so that the powder has mild and long-acting functions of sun protection, aging resistance and sebum adsorption.
Average particle size of corn starch particles (D 50 ) The powder quality of the prepared powder is fine and smooth and can be more attached to the skin, and the powder can be naturally and not blocked after the powder is used. After the biological enzyme and the superfine corn starch are treated according to the mass ratio and the reaction conditions, enough holes can be formed in the superfine corn starch and on the surface of the superfine corn starch, so that the hole volume and the specific surface area are increased, and meanwhile, the smoothness of the porous corn starch particles is not affected.
Further, in preparing the porous corn starch, the intermittent ultrasound is specifically operated as: standing and reacting for 1-48 hours at 25-60 ℃, wherein the ultrasonic dispersion is carried out for 1-30 minutes every 50 minutes, and the ultrasonic power is 35-240W. More preferably, the intermittent ultrasound specific operation is: the reaction was allowed to stand at 50℃for 12 hours, with ultrasonic dispersion at 50 minute intervals for 2 minutes at an ultrasonic power of 40W.
Furthermore, in the preparation of the porous corn starch, in order to ensure the preparation effect, the freeze-drying can be further subjected to biological enzyme inactivation treatment, and the treatment mode can be any mode known to a person skilled in the art as long as the biological enzyme activity can be removed; preferably at 80℃for 5-30 minutes.
Further, in preparing the porous corn starch, the freeze-drying means or device may be any means or device known to those skilled in the art, and this step aims at removing the moisture on the surface and in the interior of the superfine corn starch while maintaining the porous structure, so long as the above purpose is achieved; the preferred freeze-drying conditions are freezing at-10deg.C to-50deg.C for 12-72 hours, and evacuating for 1-12 hours; more preferably, the lyophilization conditions are-40℃for 12 hours and vacuum is applied for 6 hours.
In a preferred embodiment, the adjuvants include a powder phase adjuvant and an oil phase adjuvant, wherein the powder phase adjuvant includes one or both of a skin feel modifier and a colorant; the oil phase auxiliary agent comprises one or more of an emollient, an essence and a preservative;
the solvent is ethanol solution with the mass fraction of 70% -90%.
Further, the skin feel modifier comprises one or more of silicon dioxide, polydimethylsiloxane, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane, polymethyl methacrylate, polyurethane and trimethylol hexyl lactone crosslinked polymer;
the colorant comprises one or more of zinc oxide, CI77163, CI 77346, CI 77492, and CI 75492;
the emollient comprises one or more of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 12- (stearyl) alkoxystearyl-2-stearyl ester, and hydrogenated polydecane;
the essence comprises one or more of 3-methoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone (acetoin), convallaria, farnesol, citral, menthol, rosehip oil, tangerine oil and spearmint oil;
the preservative comprises one or more of phenoxyethanol, sodium dehydroacetate, sodium benzoate and sorbitan octoate.
In the invention, according to the performance requirement of the blended powder, an auxiliary agent can be added to enhance the effect:
the skin feel regulator can improve the texture of powder coated on the skin, improve the compatibility of the powder and the skin, enable the powder to be more fit after being coated on the face, reduce makeup removal, and enhance the effect of softening the makeup. The silica has smooth touch feeling, and the spreadability of the silica on the skin surface can be improved by adding the silica into the sun-proof make-up powder; the polydimethyl siloxane has better comprehensive performance of spreadability, heavy feel and smooth feel, and can improve the lubrication feel and glossiness when being added into the sun-proof make-up powder; vinyl polydimethylsiloxane is a silicon elastic sphere, soft in skin feel and soft in focus effect, and can improve concealer and make-up feel more natural when added into sun-proof make-up powder; the polymethyl methacrylate has certain hardness and smooth particles, so that the lubricity and dispersibility of the sun-proof make-up powder can be improved; the polyurethane and the trimethylol hexyl lactone crosslinked polymer have optical desalination effects, soft skin feel and strong elasticity, and can increase the soft waxy feel of the sun-proof make-up powder.
Because the active ingredients of the invention use natural herbal plant extracts, the prepared sun-proof make-up powder contains natural pigments such as flavonoid compounds, saponins compounds and the like, and the coloring agent is added to correct the color of the powder, thereby playing roles in concealing, beautifying and modifying the make-up.
The skin-protecting and make-up-fixing powder has the advantages of improving the adhesive force and affinity of the sun-protecting and make-up-fixing powder on the surface of skin, effectively enhancing the moisturizing capability of the powder and preventing the skin from being patchy and stuck due to excessive dryness of the powder.
The essence is extracted from plants to obtain essential oil or synthetic perfume, has higher biocompatibility with active macromolecules in trollius chinensis, cistanche deserticola and liquorice, has natural smell and mild skin feel, does not irritate, and can be mixed and blended with one or more of the active macromolecules according to the requirements of the sun-proof make-up powder.
More preferably, the preservative is more than two of phenoxyethanol, sodium dehydroacetate, sodium benzoate and sorbitan octoate; because the extracts of the trollius chinensis and the cistanche deserticola contain polyphenols, flavonoids and organic acid active substances, the extracts are combined with the glycyrrhizin, so that incomplete synthesis of cell walls (or cell membranes) of bacteria can be induced, the antibacterial effect is achieved, and the antibacterial effect of the sun-proof make-up powder can be synergistically enhanced by the additionally added preservative.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 75-80 parts of porous corn starch; 5-6 parts of trollius chinensis bunge extract; 0.5-5 parts of cistanche extract; 0.5-5 parts of glycyrrhizin; 1-10 parts of pearl powder; 1-5 parts of mica powder; 1-5 parts of skin feel regulator; 1-3 parts of an emollient; 0.001-0.005 part of essence; 0.0001-0.001 part of colorant; 0.001-0.003 part of preservative and 20-50 parts of solvent.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants, which comprises the following steps:
s1, dispersing trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche salsa extract and glycyrrhizin in a solvent, adding porous corn starch after all the trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche salsa extract and glycyrrhizin are dissolved, mixing for 1-12 hours at room temperature until the color of a mixed solution becomes light, and freeze-drying to obtain a powder matrix;
s2, adding matrix auxiliary materials and powder phase auxiliary agents into the powder matrix of the powder obtained in the step S1, and grinding and uniformly mixing to obtain powder;
s3, uniformly mixing the powder with an oil phase auxiliary agent to obtain the sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants.
In a preferred embodiment, the freeze-drying means or device in step S1 may be any means or device known to those skilled in the art, and this step aims to remove the moisture effect after the active molecule is sufficiently not on the surface and inside of the porous corn starch, so long as the above-mentioned purpose can be achieved; the preferred freeze-drying conditions are freezing at-10deg.C to-50deg.C for 12-72 hours, and evacuating for 1-12 hours; more preferably, the lyophilization conditions are-40℃for 12 hours and vacuum is applied for 6 hours.
In a preferred embodiment, before the powder is mixed with the oil phase auxiliary agent uniformly, a plurality of oil phase auxiliary agents or different components in the same oil phase auxiliary agent can be mixed uniformly, so that layering phenomenon caused by direct mixing of the powder with different oil phase auxiliary agents is avoided.
In a preferred embodiment, the mixing or homogenizing in steps S1-S3 may be performed in a manner or apparatus known to those skilled in the art, so long as the uniformity of the reaction system is achieved without delamination, and more preferably, the homogenizing conditions in steps S2 and S3 are 200-1000rpm for stirring for 1-30min.
The following describes the technical scheme of the present application in detail through specific embodiments:
unless otherwise specified, all experimental facilities and the like used are commercially available; unless otherwise specified, all raw materials used are commercial chemicals of cosmetic grade or more; the preparation method and the technological parameters in the embodiment of the invention are all conventional methods in the field unless otherwise specified.
In the present invention, the parts by weight may be those known in the art such as mu g, mg, g, kg, or may be multiples thereof such as 1/10, 1/100, 10 times, 100 times, etc.
In the present invention, room temperature means 25 ℃.
In the embodiment of the invention, partial raw material sources are shown in table 1:
TABLE 1
A preparation method of flos Trollii extract and herba cistanches extract comprises the following steps:
the experimental procedure of the trollius chinensis bunge extract comprises the following steps: 10 parts by weight of trollius chinensis bunge is crushed and put into a gauze bag, 100 parts by weight of trollius chinensis bunge is put into 70-90% ethanol solution with the mass fraction of ultrasonic wave (the ultrasonic frequency is 40 kHz) for 5-30min, then soaked for 5 hours, then transferred into a Soxhlet extraction device to reflux for 2 times, each time for 1-3 hours, the obtained extracts are combined, the extract is concentrated by rotary evaporation at the temperature of 60-70 ℃ and cooled to room temperature, the concentrated solution is added with petroleum ether with the same volume to extract and remove impurities, the petroleum ether layer is removed for three times, each time, the extract is poured into an AB-8 macroporous resin chromatographic column, the elution is carried out by adopting 50-80% ethanol eluent with the mass fraction, the trollius chinensis bunge extract is obtained, and the trollius chinensis bunge extract is obtained by freeze drying.
Cistanche extract experimental procedure: crushing 10 parts by weight of cistanche stem, soaking in 100 parts by weight of 70-95% ethanol solution for 5h, performing ultrasonic treatment for 10-30min, transferring into a Soxhlet extraction device for refluxing for 2 times each for 1-3h, combining the extracting solutions, performing rotary evaporation and concentration on the extracting solutions at 60-70 ℃, cooling to room temperature, sequentially extracting and removing impurities from the concentrated solution by using equal volumes of petroleum ether, ethyl acetate and water-saturated n-butanol solution, pouring the extracting solution into an AB-8 macroporous resin chromatographic column, eluting by using 70-90% ethanol solution by mass fraction, obtaining cistanche extract, and performing freeze drying to obtain the cistanche extract.
Example 1
A sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants and a preparation method thereof comprise the following preparation steps:
(1) Mixing superfine corn starch and biological enzymes (saccharifying enzyme, alpha-amylase, glucoamylase and the like) according to a certain mass ratio, uniformly dispersing in 70% ethanol solution (mass fraction), heating to 50 ℃, standing for reaction for 12 hours, wherein ultrasonic dispersion is carried out for 2 minutes every 50 minutes, ultrasonic power is 40W, standing for 5 minutes at 80 ℃ for inactivating the biological enzymes after the reaction is finished, and then freeze-drying to obtain the superfine corn starch with a porous structure;
(2) Dissolving flos Trollii extract, herba cistanches extract and glycyrrhizin in 70% -90% ethanol solution (mass fraction), mixing, ultrasonic dissolving completely, adding porous corn starch, mixing at room temperature for 4 hr, waiting for the color of the solution to fade (as shown in figure 1, the color of the solution is obviously different before and after adsorption, and the solution is changed from milky white to clear pale yellow), and lyophilizing to obtain powder matrix of the powder;
(3) Adding the powder matrix auxiliary material and the powder phase auxiliary agent into the powder matrix obtained in the step (2), and fully grinding and mixing to obtain powder;
(4) Uniformly mixing the oil phase auxiliary agent to obtain an oil phase;
(5) Slowly grinding and mixing the powder and the oil phase for 30 minutes at the mixing temperature of 25-50 ℃ to obtain the sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants.
The specific experimental materials and the dosage are shown in Table 2
TABLE 2
Example 2:
as with the procedure of example 1, the specific experimental materials and amounts are shown in Table 3
TABLE 3 Table 3
Example 3:
as with the procedure of example 1, the specific experimental materials and amounts are shown in Table 4
TABLE 4 Table 4
Example 4:
as with the procedure of example 1, the specific experimental materials and amounts are shown in Table 5
TABLE 5
Comparative example 1:
consistent with the preparation procedure of example 1, but lacking trollius chinensis extract;
comparative example 2:
consistent with the preparation procedure of example 1, but lacking cistanche extract;
comparative example 3:
consistent with the preparation procedure of example 1, but lacking glycyrrhizin;
comparative example 4:
consistent with the preparation procedure of example 1, but lacking trollius chinensis extract and cistanche extract;
comparative example 5:
consistent with the preparation procedure of example 1, but lacking trollius chinensis extract and glycyrrhizin;
comparative example 6:
the procedure is as in example 1, but lacks cistanche and glycyrrhizin.
Comparative example 7:
the procedure was identical to that of example 1, but lacking pearl powder.
Comparative example 8:
the procedure was identical to that of example 1, but without mica powder.
Effect example
1. Sun protection test
4 subjects having daily cosmetic needs were selected for make-up using the powder prepared according to example 1, comparative example 2 and comparative example 4, the melanin content of the skin of the subjects was measured using a skin melanin tester (CKMC-760, germany) before make-up, and made up according to the normal make-up procedure every day as a basic value, the duration of outdoor activities during the test was kept consistent with the duration of outdoor activities at ordinary times, the change in melanin content of the skin of the face of the subjects was measured after 7 days, and the% melanin inhibition = (test value before test-test value after test)/test value x 100% before test of the subjects was calculated, and the efficacy of the samples in terms of sunscreening was evaluated, and the results were recorded in table 6.
TABLE 6
Test item Melanin inhibition rate%
Example 1 1.49
Comparative example 1 0.86
Comparative example 2 0.5
Comparative example 4 -0.9
By comparison of the data in Table 6, it can be seen that: the number of inhibition of skin melanin formation increases significantly after the use of the make-up powder of example 1, and the number of inhibition of skin melanin becomes negative after the use of the make-up powder of comparative example 4 (without addition of trollius chinensis extract and cistanche extract), indicating that the addition of trollius chinensis extract and cistanche extract makes the make-up powder have a sun-screening effect.
The skin melanin inhibiting rate of the cosmetic powder of comparative example 1 (without the trollius chinensis bunge extract) gradually increases, which indicates that the cistanche deserticola extract of comparative example 1 has a certain sun protection effect.
The skin melanin inhibiting rate of the cosmetic powder of comparative example 2 (without cistanche extract) gradually increased, which indicates that the trollius chinensis extract of comparative example 2 has a certain sun protection effect.
The numerical changes in melanin inhibiting rates of comparative example 1, comparative example 1 and comparative example 2 indicate that trollius chinensis extract and cistanche deserticola extract can synergistically enhance sun-screening effect.
In order to better illustrate the difference of the sun protection effect between the make-up powder prepared in the application and the commercial make-up powder, 0.005g of the powder prepared in the example 1 and 0.005g of the commercial powder are taken as reference substances, respectively and uniformly smeared on a 3M adhesive tape, placed on a glass slide, and irradiated by an ultraviolet lamp (the wave band is 320-400 nm) to verify the blocking effect of the powder on ultraviolet rays, and the result is shown in figure 1.
As is apparent from fig. 1, the ultraviolet blocking effect of the sun-proof make-up powder is better than that of the common powder on the market, and further illustrates that the sun-proof make-up powder prepared by the technical scheme of the invention can effectively absorb ultraviolet rays and plays roles of sun-proof red and sun-proof black.
2. Antioxidation test:
accurately weighing 1mg of DPPH reagent, adding 50mL of absolute ethyl alcohol, and fully dissolving to prepare the DPPH-ethanol solution. Experimental group: adding 0.05g sample into 5.0mL DPPH-ethanol mixed solution, mixing, standing at room temperature for 30min at room temperature under dark condition, and measuring absorbance at 517nm (A 1 ) The same method was used for three times of testing, and the average value was taken. Control group: 1.0mL of distilled water was added to 5.0mL of the prepared DPPH-ethanol mixed solution, and the absorbance was recorded as (A) in the same manner as in the experimental group operation 0 ) The same method was tested three times and averaged.
Carrying out formula calculation:
the test results are recorded in table 7:
TABLE 7
Comparing the data of example 1 with the data of comparative examples 1-6, the compound use of the trollius chinensis bunge extract, the cistanche deserticola extract and the glycyrrhizin has better antioxidation effect than the single use of the trollius chinensis bunge extract, the cistanche deserticola extract or the glycyrrhizin, and the make-up powder has the characteristic of relieving the oxidation of the makeup; the data of comparative examples 7-8 demonstrate that pearl powder and mica powder have little effect on the antioxidant effect of the make-up powder.
3. Oil control test
The environment temperature and the environment humidity are kept unchanged all the time, and after 20 subjects are selected to clean the faces, the faces are selectedThe T region of the part is divided into 3 regions, and the initial value (microgram/cm) of the skin fat content is detected 2 ) The non-cosmetic area is a blank control group, the area where the sun-proof make-up powder is uniformly applied is a test group, wherein the area where the sun-proof make-up powder (50+ -0.5 mg, prepared according to example 1) is uniformly applied is an experimental group, and the area where the commercial make-up powder (50+ -0.5 mg) is uniformly applied is a control group in the experimental group. Skin oil levels were measured for 2,4,6,8 and 10 hours, respectively, skin oil absorption was calculated, and the experimental results were averaged.
The calculation formula is as follows:
the test results are recorded in table 8:
TABLE 8
As can be seen from the data in the table, the oil absorption rate of the sun-proof make-up powder is obviously superior to that of the commercial product, and can be maintained to be more than 50% after the make-up is maintained for 10 hours, so that the sun-proof make-up powder has an excellent long-acting oil control effect, can meet the daily make-up maintenance requirement, and reduces the inconvenience of make-up and the damage of repeated make-up to the skin.
The foregoing descriptions of specific exemplary embodiments of the present invention are presented for purposes of illustration and description. It is not intended to limit the invention to the precise form disclosed, and obviously many modifications and variations are possible in light of the above teaching. The exemplary embodiments were chosen and described in order to explain the specific principles of the invention and its practical application to thereby enable one skilled in the art to make and utilize the invention in various exemplary embodiments and with various modifications as are suited to the particular use contemplated. It is intended that the scope of the invention be defined by the claims and their equivalents.

Claims (10)

1. The sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 75-80 parts of porous corn starch; 5-6 parts of trollius chinensis bunge extract; 0.5-5 parts of cistanche extract; 0.5-5 parts of glycyrrhizin; 2-15 parts of loose powder matrix auxiliary materials; 2-8 parts of an auxiliary agent; 20-50 parts of a solvent; wherein, the trollius chinensis bunge extract and the cistanche salsa extract are extracted by ethanol, the trollius chinensis bunge extract is prepared by ethanol solution with the mass fraction of 70-90%, and the cistanche salsa extract is prepared by ethanol solution with the mass fraction of 70-95%;
the porous corn starch is prepared by the following steps: uniformly mixing superfine corn starch and biological enzyme to obtain mixed powder, dispersing the mixed powder in ethanol solution, fully reacting in an intermittent ultrasonic mode, and freeze-drying after the reaction is finished to obtain superfine corn starch with a porous structure, wherein the average particle size D of the superfine corn starch 50 Less than or equal to 10 mu m; the biological enzyme is saccharifying enzyme;
dispersing flos Trollii extract, herba cistanches extract, and glycyrrhizin in solvent, dissolving completely, adding porous corn starch, mixing at room temperature for 1-12 hr until the color of the mixed solution becomes light, and lyophilizing to obtain powder matrix.
2. The sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbs as claimed in claim 1, wherein the sun-proof make-up powder is fine and smooth in quality and D, and comprises flos Trollii extract, herba cistanches extract and glycyrrhizin loaded on the surface and inside of porous corn starch as active molecules 50 =14.8 μm, DPPH clearance of 59.6%, and oil absorption rate was still 50% or more after 10 hours of makeup.
3. The natural herbal sunscreen cosmetic powder of claim 1 wherein the saccharifying enzyme comprises alpha-amylase when preparing porous corn starch.
4. The sun protection and make-up powder prepared from natural herbs according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the ultra-fine corn starch to the bio-enzyme is (1-500): 1.
5. the natural herbal based sunscreen cosmetic powder of claim 1, wherein the ethanol solution is 70-90% by mass when porous corn starch is prepared;
the mass ratio of the mixed powder to the ethanol solution is 1:1.
6. A sunscreen make-up powder prepared from natural herbs as in claim 3 wherein said intermittent ultrasound is specifically operative to: standing at 25-60deg.C for 1-48 hr, and dispersing with ultrasound every 50 min for 1-30min.
7. The sun-protecting make-up powder prepared from natural herbs as defined in claim 1, wherein said powder base adjuvant comprises one or both of pearl powder and mica powder;
the auxiliary agent comprises a powder phase auxiliary agent and an oil phase auxiliary agent;
the solvent is ethanol solution with the mass fraction of 70% -90%.
8. The natural herbal based sunscreen cosmetic powder of claim 7 wherein the powder phase aid comprises one or both of a skin feel modifier and a colorant; the oil phase auxiliary agent comprises one or more of an emollient, a fragrance and a preservative.
9. The natural herbal based sunscreen cosmetic powder of claim 8 wherein the skin feel modifier comprises one or more of silica, polydimethylsiloxane, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane, polymethyl methacrylate, polyurethane, trimethylol hexyl lactone crosslinked polymer;
the colorant comprises one or more of zinc oxide, CI77163, CI 77346, CI 77492, and CI 75492;
the emollient comprises one or more of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 12- (stearyl) alkoxystearyl-2-stearyl ester, and hydrogenated polydecane;
the essence comprises one or more of 3-methoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone (acetoin), convallaria, farnesol, citral, menthol, rosehip oil, tangerine oil and spearmint oil;
the preservative comprises one or more of phenoxyethanol, sodium dehydroacetate, sodium benzoate and sorbitan octoate.
10. A process for the preparation of a sunscreen make-up powder prepared from natural herbs as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising in particular the steps of:
s1, dispersing trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche salsa extract and glycyrrhizin in a solvent, adding porous corn starch after all the trollius chinensis bunge extract, cistanche salsa extract and glycyrrhizin are dissolved, mixing for 1-12 hours at room temperature until the color of a mixed solution becomes light, and freeze-drying to obtain a powder matrix;
s2, adding matrix auxiliary materials and powder phase auxiliary agents into the powder matrix of the powder obtained in the step S1, and grinding and uniformly mixing to obtain powder;
s3, uniformly mixing the powder with an oil phase auxiliary agent to obtain the sun-proof make-up powder prepared from natural herbaceous plants.
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