CN113089158A - Natural green sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric and production process thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a natural, green and sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric and a production process thereof. At present, no interwoven fabric which can combine the excellent performances of pure real silk and pure hemp yarns is available. The fabric obtains natural antibacterial, bacteriostatic, ultraviolet-proof, antistatic and wearing comfort through design, and comprises silk yarns and hemp yarns, wherein the silk yarns are silk, spun silk or spun silk hemp blended yarns, and the hemp yarns are hemp blended yarns or spun silk hemp blended yarns. The invention combines the excellent properties of real silk and hemp together on a new fabric, so that the fabric is not scratchy when worn and can not be stuck on the body when sweating, and simultaneously has the effects of lasting antibiosis, bacteriostasis, static resistance and ultraviolet resistance, and is natural, green and sustainable.

Description

Natural green sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric and production process thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to a real silk and hemp blended or interwoven fabric and a production process thereof, in particular to a natural, green and sustainable functional real silk and hemp fabric and a production process thereof.

Background

The silk is composed of sericin and fibroin, is formed by combining 18 amino acids according to different proportions and spaces, is a protein fiber and is called as 'fiber queen'. The fabric is elegant and soft in luster, bright in pearl shape, soft, smooth, thick, plump and elastic, has elegant appearance, good moisture absorption and air permeability, and has skin care and health care effects. However, real silk clothes have poor crease resistance and dyeing fastness, are easy to yellow and fade in the sun and are easy to damage by worms.

China hemp has the reputation of "the king of natural fiber", which means that the Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) content of the leaves and the flower spikes at the top of the flowering phase of a plant population is less than 0.3% (dry matter percentage), and the hemp type which does not have drugs extracted or can be directly used as drugs is not available. The growth period of the hemp is generally 100-150 days, the hemp is simple to plant, the hemp grows rapidly, the adaptability is strong, the plant diseases and insect pests are few, the saline-alkali resistance and drought resistance are strong, the requirement on soil is not high, the adaptability is extremely wide, most areas in China can be planted, and the hemp has the planting characteristic of not competing with grains, cotton and oil. The hemp fiber has the functions of natural antibiosis, moisture absorption and sweat releasing, ultraviolet resistance, peculiar smell adsorption, heat resistance and the like, and is a high-yield special biological resource which is green, multipurpose and easy to plant. But the spinning difficulty is high, the fabric feels coarse and hard, and the elasticity is poor.

In recent years, sustainable fashion has become one of the major development trends in the global textile apparel industry. In the post epidemic era, new consumption needs are being developed, and new consumption structures are being constructed. People pay more and more attention to the health and the strong physique, and pay more attention to the safety, the comfort and the environmental protection sustainability of the clothes. Consumers are more willing to support the products which they like and attach to, and also to know the story behind the products, how the products are born, what the components of the products are, etc., and these ideas will further stimulate consumers and promote their buying behavior.

At present, fabrics combining silk and hemp are also available, for example, in Chinese patent with publication number CN105908309A of 2016, 08 and 31, 2016, a wet spinning process method for blending spun silk and flax is disclosed, the method is a blending process, and the performance of the silk and the hemp can not be really and effectively combined; also, as disclosed in chinese patent publication No. CN1104269A, published as 28/06/1995, a silk and hemp interwoven silk and a method for producing the same are disclosed, which blend silk and hemp and are difficult to combine the properties of silk and hemp effectively. At present, no interwoven fabric which can combine the excellent performances of pure real silk and pure hemp yarns is available.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provides a natural green sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric and a production process thereof, which combine the advantages of real silk and hemp on a new fabric, so that the fabric is not scratchy when worn by other hemp fabrics, can not be stuck to the body when sweating, has the effects of lasting antibiosis, bacteriostasis, static resistance and ultraviolet resistance, is natural green sustainable, integrates the advantages of real silk and hemp fibers, complements the respective defects of the real silk and hemp fibers, forms the natural sustainable green functional fabric, and is mainly suitable for casual clothes such as shirts, trousers, coats, skirts and the like and home fabrics.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the problems is as follows: the natural, green and sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric is characterized in that: the fabric obtains natural antibacterial, bacteriostatic, ultraviolet-proof, antistatic and wearing comfort through design, and comprises silk yarns and hemp yarns, wherein the silk yarns are silk, spun silk or spun silk hemp blended yarns, and the hemp yarns are hemp blended yarns or spun silk hemp blended yarns.

Preferably, the specification of the real silk is 2/20/22D-8/20/22D, the specification of the real silk is 36 Nm-120 Nm and 48 Nm/2-240 Nm/2, the specification of the hemp is 24 Nm-60 Nm pure spinning yarn, and the specification of the spun silk hemp blended yarn is 48 Nm/2-170 Nm/2.

Preferably, the hemp content of the functional real silk hemp fabric is 20-70%, and the tightness of the fabric is less than 60%.

A production process of natural, green and sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:

1) material selection and fabric design:

selecting hemp yarns from 24-60 Nm hemp pure yarns or 48-2-170 Nm/2 spun silk hemp blended yarns, wherein the hemp accounts for 20-70%, and then matching with silk yarns;

secondly, according to the yarn and the yarn arrangement, the fabric texture and the fabric tightness are designed, and the fabric tightness is less than 60 percent to ensure that the finished product has soft hand feeling.

2) Weaving:

the warping is performed in a sectional mode, the winding density of a warp beam is 15-30% higher than that of a bobbin, and the warping speed is 500-700 m/min;

secondly, drafting and reeding, wherein the density of the heddles is 8-12 threads/cm, and reeding is performed by adopting a sequential threading manner of 2-6;

weaving, wherein the plain weave and plain weave change weave adopts an early shedding process, the twill weave and twill weave change weave adopt a middle shedding process, and the satin weave, the small jacquard weave and the large jacquard weave adopt a late shedding process;

inspecting and finishing the grey cloth.

3) Dyeing and finishing:

first, pretreatment

Pretreatment: 2-5 g/L of sodium carbonate, 60-80 ℃ and 30-60 min;

refining: 3-5 g/L of refining agent, 5-15 g/L of sodium carbonate, and treating at 95 +/-3 ℃ for 20-90 min; and adding 5-15 g/L of hydrogen peroxide and 0.5-2 g/L of chelating dispersant, and treating for 20-60 min.

② dyeing

The dyeing formula comprises the following components: 0.1-10% of reactive dye, 30-50 g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate, 0.5-3 g/L of leveling agent, 5-15 g/L of soda ash and 0.1-1 g/L of glacial acetic acid; the percentage of the reactive dye in 0.1-10% refers to the weight percentage of the reactive dye in the fabric;

adding an auxiliary agent, a dye and a leveling agent into a dyeing bath ratio of 1: 10-30, uniformly stirring, regulating the pH value of a dye solution to 4-5 by using glacial acetic acid when dyeing is started, heating to 45 +/-5 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20-40 min, then adding soda ash, heating to 60-70 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 30-70 min;

soap boiling and water washing.

Thirdly, after finishing and mechanical soft finishing.

And fourthly, checking and warehousing the finished product.

Preferably, the production process of the natural, green and sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: weaving in the step 2) is as follows: dobby rapier loom, warp density: 24-115 roots/cm, weft density: 20-62 roots/cm; warp tension: 120-160 cn, vehicle speed: 240 to 400 RMP.

Preferably, the production process of the natural, green and sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the dyeing and finishing in the step 3) is as follows:

firstly, pretreatment (refining and degumming), wherein the alkalinity cannot be too strong during refining for protecting fibroin, and the pH value is controlled to be 9-11;

dyeing, namely dyeing silk yarns (real silk) by using acid dye and leaving white hemp yarns (hemp); when the silk yarns and the hemp yarns are dyed in the same color, reactive dyes are used for dyeing, the pH value of a dye solution is controlled to be 4-5 during initial dyeing, the using amount of anhydrous sodium sulphate is 30-50 g/L, and the using amount of soda during fixation is 6-10 g/L, so that better homochromatism can be obtained;

thirdly, after finishing, a method of mechanical soft finishing or mechanical soft finishing and chemical soft finishing is adopted.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and effects: the functional real silk hemp fabric is suitable for casual clothes and home fabrics of men and women, has the advantages of easy washing, quick drying, soft hand feeling, good hygroscopicity, comfortable wearing, single color or double color dyeing, and has the functions of antibiosis, bacteriostasis, ultraviolet resistance, static resistance, no close fitting of sweating, peculiar smell adsorption and the like. These functions are mainly realized by the physical structure of the fiber, the weave structure of the fabric, and natural active phenols and other substances carried by the fiber.

According to GB/T20944.3-2008, the functional silk hemp fabric has the antibacterial and bacteriostatic effects. The measured value of the escherichia coli bacteriostasis rate is more than 90 percent; the antibacterial rate of staphylococcus aureus is over 95 percent; the bacteriostatic rate of the candida albicans is more than 99 percent.

According to AATCC183-2014 (E2016), the functional silk hemp fabric has a good ultraviolet resistance effect. A Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) greater than 50; (ii) an ultraviolet transmittance, T (UVA), of less than 3; (ii) an ultraviolet transmittance, T (UVB), of less than 2; the ultraviolet blocking rate is more than 97 at 315-400nm UVA; the ultraviolet blocking rate is more than 98 at 280-315nm UVB.

The specific resistance of the functional real silk hemp fabric is measured to be 10⁸～10¹¹Omega, has antistatic effect.

Drawings

In order to more clearly illustrate the embodiments and/or technical solutions of the present invention, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments and/or the prior art will be briefly described below, it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are only some embodiments of the present invention, and other drawings can be obtained by those skilled in the art without creative efforts.

FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of a natural green sustainable functional silk hemp fabric in an embodiment of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which are illustrative of the present invention and are not to be construed as being limited thereto.

Examples

The natural, green and sustainable functional real silk and hemp fabric in the embodiment comprises silk yarns and hemp yarns, wherein the silk yarns can be real silk, spun silk or spun silk and hemp blended yarns, the hemp yarns can be hemp blended yarns or spun silk and hemp blended yarns, the real silk can be 2/20/22D-8/20/22D, the spun silk can be 36 Nm-120 Nm and 48 Nm/2-240 Nm/2, the hemp can be 24 Nm-60 Nm pure spun yarns, and the spun silk and hemp blended yarns can be 48 Nm/2-170 Nm/2.

The weave structure of the functional silk hemp fabric in the embodiment can be plain weave, plain weave change weave, twill weave change weave, satin weave change weave, mini jacquard weave or big jacquard weave. Warp yarns in the functional silk hemp fabric are silk yarns, and weft yarns are hemp yarns or the silk yarns and the hemp yarns which are mixed; or the warp yarns are hemp yarns, and the weft yarns are silk yarns or silk yarns and hemp yarns. For example, in fig. 1, warp: (A) 3/20/22D 2.5T/S Silk; weft yarn: (A) 50Nm Hemp, (B) 6/20/22D Silk, 1:1 alignment.

The production process of the natural, green and sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric in the embodiment comprises the following steps:

the warping is conducted in a sectional mode, the winding density of a warp beam is 15-30% higher than that of a bobbin, and the warping speed is 500-700 m/min.

And secondly, drafting and reeding, wherein the density of the heddles is 8-12 threads/cm, and reeding is performed by sequentially penetrating 2-6 threads.

Weaving, wherein the plain weave and plain weave change weave adopts an early shedding process, the twill weave and twill weave change weave adopt a middle shedding process, and the satin weave, the small jacquard weave and the large jacquard weave adopt a late shedding process; for example, the weft rib weave is as follows: dobby rapier loom, warp density: 24-115 roots/cm, weft density: 20-62 pieces/cm, warp tension: 120-160 cn, vehicle speed: 240 to 400 RMP. The earlier opening process, the middle opening process, and the later opening process referred to in the present invention are prior art to those skilled in the art, and will not be described in detail herein.

Inspecting and finishing the grey cloth.

And fifthly, dyeing and finishing.

And sixthly, checking and warehousing the finished product.

The dyeing and finishing process of the fifth step in this embodiment may be as follows:

a pretreatment (refining degumming)

Pretreatment: 2-5 g/L of sodium carbonate, 60-80 ℃ and 30-60 min;

refining: 3-5 g/L of refining agent, 5-15 g/L of sodium carbonate, and treating at 95 +/-3 ℃ for 20-90 min; and adding 5-15 g/L of hydrogen peroxide and 0.5-2 g/L of chelating dispersant, and treating for 20-60 min. In order to protect the fibroin, attention needs to be paid to refining, the alkalinity cannot be too strong, and the pH value should be controlled to be 9-11.

B dyeing

The dyeing formula comprises the following components: 0.1-10% of reactive dye, 30-50 g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate, 0.5-3 g/L of leveling agent, 5-15 g/L of soda ash and 0.1-1 g/L of glacial acetic acid;

adding an auxiliary agent, a dye and a leveling agent into a dyeing bath ratio of 1: 10-30, uniformly stirring, regulating the pH value of a dye solution to 4-5 by using glacial acetic acid when dyeing is started, heating to 45 +/-5 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20-40 min, then adding soda ash, heating to 60-70 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 30-70 min;

soap boiling and water washing.

The reactive dye is used for dyeing, the pH value of a dye solution is controlled to be 4-5 during initial dyeing, the using amount of anhydrous sodium sulphate is 30-50 g/L, and good homochromatism can be obtained.

C, after finishing, adopting a mechanical soft finishing method or a mechanical soft and chemical soft finishing method, for example, adopting an air beating soft finishing machine to finish.

In addition, it should be noted that the specific embodiments described in the present specification are only examples of the structures of the present invention. Equivalent or simple changes in the structure, characteristics and principles of the invention are included in the protection scope of the patent. Various modifications, additions and substitutions for the specific embodiments described may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the invention as defined in the accompanying claims.

Claims (7)

1. A natural green sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric is characterized in that: the functional real silk hemp fabric comprises hemp, and the fabric has natural antibacterial, bacteriostatic, ultraviolet-proof and anti-static performances and is comfortable to wear through design.

2. The natural green sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric of claim 1, wherein: the specification of the hemp is 24 Nm-60 Nm pure spinning or 36 Nm-80 Nm, 48 Nm/2-170 Nm/2 spun silk hemp blended yarn.

3. The natural green sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric of claim 1, wherein: the tightness of the functional real silk hemp fabric is less than 60%, and the hemp accounts for 20-70%.

4. A production process of natural, green and sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:

1) material selection and fabric design:

firstly, selecting Han hemp yarns from 24-60 Nm pure spun yarns or 36-80 Nm, 48 Nm/2-170 Nm/2 spun silk Han hemp blended yarns, wherein the Han hemp accounts for 20-70%, and then matching with real silk yarns;

secondly, designing fabric texture and fabric tightness according to the yarns and yarn arrangement, wherein the fabric tightness is less than 60% to ensure that the finished product has soft hand feeling;

2) weaving:

the warping is performed in a sectional mode, the winding density of a warp beam is 15-30% higher than that of a bobbin, and the warping speed is 500-700 m/min;

secondly, drafting and reeding, wherein the density of the heddles is 8-12 threads/cm, and reeding is performed by adopting a sequential threading manner of 2-6;

weaving, wherein the plain weave and plain weave change weave adopts an early shedding process, the twill weave and twill weave change weave adopt a middle shedding process, and the satin weave, the small jacquard weave and the large jacquard weave adopt a late shedding process;

inspecting and finishing gray fabric;

3) dyeing and finishing:

first, pretreatment

Pretreatment: 2-5 g/L of sodium carbonate, 60-80 ℃ and 30-60 min;

refining: 3-5 g/L of refining agent, 5-15 g/L of sodium carbonate, and treating at 95 +/-3 ℃ for 20-90 min; adding 5-15 g/L of hydrogen peroxide and 0.5-2 g/L of chelating dispersant, and treating for 20-60 min;

② dyeing

The dyeing formula comprises the following components: 0.1-10% of reactive dye, 30-50 g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate, 0.5-3 g/L of leveling agent, 5-15 g/L of soda ash and 0.1-1 g/L of glacial acetic acid;

adding an auxiliary agent, a dye and a leveling agent into a dyeing bath ratio of 1: 10-30, uniformly stirring, regulating the pH value of a dye solution to 4-5 by using glacial acetic acid when dyeing is started, heating to 45 +/-5 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20-40 min, then adding soda ash, heating to 60-70 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 30-70 min;

soap boiling and water washing;

thirdly, after finishing, mechanically softening and finishing;

and fourthly, checking and warehousing the finished product.

5. The process for producing natural green sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric as claimed in claim 4, wherein the process comprises the following steps: weaving in the step 2) is as follows: dobby rapier loom, warp density: 24-115 roots/cm, weft density: 20-62 roots/cm; warp tension: 120-160 cn, vehicle speed: 240 to 400 RMP.

6. The process for producing natural green sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric as claimed in claim 4, wherein the process comprises the following steps: the dyeing and finishing in the step 3) is as follows:

firstly, pretreatment, wherein the alkalinity cannot be too strong when refining is needed for protecting silk fibroin, and the pH value is controlled to be 9-11;

dyeing, namely dyeing the silk yarns by using acid dye when singly dyeing the silk yarns, and leaving white hemp yarns; when the silk yarns and the hemp yarns are dyed in the same color, dyeing by using reactive dyes, controlling the pH value of a dye solution at the beginning of dyeing to be 4-5, and controlling the using amount of anhydrous sodium sulphate to be 30-50 g/L;

thirdly, after finishing, a method of mechanical soft finishing or mechanical soft finishing and chemical soft finishing is adopted.

7. A natural green sustainable functional real silk hemp fabric is characterized in that: the preparation method is characterized by comprising the production process as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 6.

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