CN103820914B - A kind of Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric and production technology thereof - Google Patents

A kind of Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric and production technology thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103820914B
CN103820914B CN201410088712.3A CN201410088712A CN103820914B CN 103820914 B CN103820914 B CN 103820914B CN 201410088712 A CN201410088712 A CN 201410088712A CN 103820914 B CN103820914 B CN 103820914B
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warp
parallel
fabric
terylene
twist
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CN201410088712.3A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN103820914A (en
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朱威
郭刚
李彦
吕香红
李永航
高志强
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上海锵达纺织有限公司
云南麻纤科技发展有限公司
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Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric, interweaved through jacquard by warp and parallel and be made into, described warp is the blended yarn of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon, in warp, the weight ratio of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon is 30-50:50-70, the number of described warp is 60-45s, and twist multiplier is 450-490; Described parallel is the blended yarn of Porel fiber and terylene, and in parallel, the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 20-35:65-80, and the dawn number of described parallel is 100-200D, and twist multiplier is 370-390.This Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric, not only bright-colored, feel is soft, and has the warm and humid equilibrium function of Self-controlled, and its powerful and performance also can the demand of suitability for industrialized production.

Description

A kind of Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric and production technology thereof

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of weaving face fabric, particularly relate to Dai Nationality's cloth fabric and the production technology thereof of the large jacquard weave of a kind of Chinese fiber crops.

Background technology

The now fabric of commercially many national costume, especially the national costume fabric of the Dai nationality is substantially all lucuriant in design, the jacquard fabrics of pattern complexity, this Dai Nationality cloth jacquard fabrics is mainly with real silk, terylene, or cotton fiber is raw material, especially based on polyester fabric.But not the fabric of terylene only has manual product, large-scale production cannot be carried out.The shortcoming of existing the Dai nationality garment material is not for absorb water, airtight, and under the natural conditions of locality, comfort level is very poor, and there is certain problem due to the jacquard weave portion of material of Dai Nationality's cloth, has serious prodding and itching feeling when causing wearing.

" flax fibre " in daily life, mainly based on the small stores such as " rope made of hemp ", " gunnysack ", to people feel be: outward appearance is comparatively coarse, stiff, and color and luster withers secretly, wear-resisting, and skin contact is uncomfortable.Along with development in science and technology " flax fibre " textiles gets more and more, Related product is also more and more abundanter.But up to the present, due to the rigidity of flax fibre, be mainly still used on part weft-knitted fabric and simple woven, adopt on the numb garment material market of large jacquard weave weave and also do not have.

Have excellent fiber because the Chinese is numb functional, the fabric be made up of china-hemp fibers, has moisture absorbing and sweat releasing permeability, and has natural biocidal property, remarkable ultraviolet-resistent property.So, applied in the exploitation of knitwear and gone, to the green health, the economize energy own profound meaning that improve knit product.

But china-hemp fibers bending and torsion rigidity is large, and fiber is obvolvent not easily, and irregularity of length is higher, and fiber head end easily ejects yarn body, and filoplume is many, firmly grow.So the pure Chinese dimity is hard, crisp, straight, exist single low by force, the defects such as fiber crops knot is many, cause the difficulty of kinking, lopping, during braiding, broken yarn are many, fault is many, do not press-off to knitting braiding.

Summary of the invention

The shortcoming of prior art in view of the above, the object of the present invention is to provide the production technology of a kind of Dai Nationality cloth fabric, be specially the production technology of Dai Nationality's cloth fabric of the large jacquard weave of a kind of Chinese fiber crops, achieve the object of Dai Nationality's cloth fabric mechanization large-scale production of the large jacquard weave of Chinese fiber crops.

For achieving the above object and other object, the present invention adopts following technical scheme to realize:

A kind of Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric, interweaved through jacquard by warp and parallel and be made into, described warp is the blended yarn of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon, and in warp, the weight ratio of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon is 30-50:50-70, the number of described warp is 60-45s, and twist multiplier is 450-490; Described parallel is the blended yarn of Porel fiber and terylene, and in parallel, the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 20-35:65-80, and the dawn number of described parallel is 100-200D, and twist multiplier is 370-390.

Preferably, the monofilament twist of described bright rayon is 200 sth. made by twisting, and dawn number is 120D; The number of described Chinese fiber crops is 40s, and the twist is 18/ inch.

In the present invention, the monofilament twist of bright rayon is 200 sth. made by twisting, twists with the fingers low, thus ensure that the glossiness of fabric of the present invention than 400 in common process.

Porel fiber compared with common polyester fiber, the hydrophilic radical of introducing and soft segment, and have employed capillary cavity structure, it is applied to fabric of the present invention and makes it have and automatically regulate wet, thermally equilibrated function,

Preferably, described warp adopts the blended yarn plying of 2-3 root Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon, and the twist of the warp after plying is 20-50 sth. made by twisting/inch.The fabric formed after plying has better powerful and surface effect.

Preferably, described parallel adopts the blended yarn of 2-3 root Porel fiber and terylene plying to form.

Preferably, the warp density of described fabric is 405-500 root/10cm.

Warp described in the present invention is become by existing compact spinning technology blending.

Preferably, the weft density of described fabric has multiple and variable; The structure of weft density has 6, specifically comprises following several: 24 pieces/centimetre; 40 pieces/centimetre; 60 pieces/centimetre; 80 pieces/centimetre; 100 pieces/centimetre; 120 pieces/centimetre;

Parallel adopts multiple color, and color category is 2 ~ 8 kinds; Preferably, the color category of parallel is 2 ~ 6 kinds.

The invention also discloses a kind of method preparing Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric described above, described method is weaved for warp and parallel being used Japanese Toyota JA710 jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and make fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, when weaving jacquard weave, flower pattern one circulation is 2.6m;

The optimum configurations of Japan Toyota JA710 jet type loom is: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, the auxiliary power of spraying 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 430-460 turn/hour, entering the latitude time is designed to 90 °, and back beam height is-2 scales, and tension force is 140-160kg, and opening angle is 30 °-35 °, and opening closing time is 290 °;

France history pottery Bill LX320 fills the optimum configurations made and is: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800, porter 65.8/ inch, penetrates several 2, while penetrate several 3, and reed width 145 centimetres, door 135 centimetres.

Preferably, the optimum configurations of Japanese Toyota JA710 jet type loom is: the speed of a motor vehicle is 450 turns/hour, and tension force is 150Kg.

Preferably, what in weaving process, adopt the conjunction of two pieces clothes to knit weaves combination, and one is done 20 circulations, and totally 40, both sides add the plain weave of 30 centimeters, can not destroy every completing property of part clothes of the inside like this in the arrangement in rear road.Adopt this weaving process, originally locate jacquard weave every cloth and practicing whole and wanting loss 2-3 rice in dyeing, the loss of present jacquard weave every cloth is 60 centimeters; Fabric utilization rate improves 8%, solely spends the proportion of goods damageds in the processing procedure of fabric to decrease 20%.

The equipment up to 6 kinds of filling densities is used in the present invention, and the rigidity by selecting specific warp and parallel produced Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric not only to weaken blended yarn, the phenomenon making it broken yarn is many in industrialization fabrication processes, fault is many and do not press-off obtains to be improved greatly, can meet the demand of suitability for industrialized production; Adopt multiple filling density in the present invention and filling density is variable, this makes the fabric decorative pattern weaving out complicated, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss, and soft, I controls damp and hot function automatically to have moisture absorbing and sweat releasing; Improve the snugness of fit of national costume.

Detailed description of the invention

Below by way of specific instantiation, embodiments of the present invention are described, those skilled in the art the content disclosed by this description can understand other advantages of the present invention and effect easily.The present invention can also be implemented or be applied by detailed description of the invention different in addition, and the every details in this description also can based on different viewpoints and application, carries out various modification or change not deviating under spirit of the present invention.

Embodiment 1

Warp: the weight ratio of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon is 30:70, and the number of described warp is 60s, and twist multiplier is 450, and warp density is 450/10cm; Single-strand yarn is obtained by existing compact spinning technology.

Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 20:80, the dawn number of described parallel is 120D, and twist multiplier is 370, and weft density is 230/440 every centimetre; Parallel color category is two kinds;

Use Japanese Toyota JA710 jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make to weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and when weaving jacquard weave, flower pattern one circulation is 2.6m;

The optimum configurations of Japan Toyota JA710 jet type loom is: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, the auxiliary power of spraying 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle is 450 turns/hour, enters the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, and back beam height is-2 scales, and tension force is 150kg, and opening angle is 30 °-35 °, and opening closing time is 290 °;

France history pottery Bill LX320 fills the optimum configurations made and is: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800, porter 65.8/ inch, penetrates several 2, while penetrate several 3, and reed width 145 centimetres, door 135 centimetres.

The clean base physical index obtaining fabric in the present embodiment 1 is:

Clean base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 155-175g/m 2;

Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal): 0-1.0%/0-3%.

Thickness: 37M/M.

According in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment, the broken yarn of yarn is few, fault is few and phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern is complicated, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.

Embodiment 2

Warp: in warp, the weight ratio of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon is 35:65, and the number of described warp is 50s, and twist multiplier is 460, and warp density is 420/10cm; Warp is obtain single-strand yarn by existing compact spinning technology.

Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 35:65, the dawn number of described parallel is 100D, and twist multiplier is 390; Weft density is 280 every centimetre; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn of 2 sub-thread Porel fibers and terylene to pool capital and forms.

Use Japanese Toyota JA710 jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make to weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and when weaving jacquard weave, flower pattern one circulation is 2.6m;

The optimum configurations of Japan Toyota JA710 jet type loom is: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, the auxiliary power of spraying 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle is 460 turns/hour, enters the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, and back beam height is-2 scales, and tension force is 140kg, and opening angle is 30 °-35 °, and opening closing time is 290 °;

France history pottery Bill LX320 fills the optimum configurations made and is: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800, porter 65.8/ inch, penetrates several 2, while penetrate several 3, and reed width 145 centimetres, door 135 centimetres.

The clean base physical index obtaining fabric in the present embodiment 2 is:

Base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 135-155g/m 2;

Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal): 0-1.0%/0-3%.

Thickness: 35M/M.

According in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment, the broken yarn of yarn is few, fault is few and phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern is complicated, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.

Embodiment 3

Warp: the weight ratio of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon is 40:60, and the number of described warp is 55s, and twist multiplier is 470, and warp density is 450/10cm; Single-strand yarn is obtained by existing compact spinning technology.

Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 30:70, the dawn number of described parallel is 200D, and twist multiplier is 390; Weft density is 230/400/600/800 every centimetre, and parallel is 6 colors; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn of 3 sub-thread Porel fibers and terylene to pool capital and forms.

Use Japanese Toyota JA710 jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make to weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and when weaving jacquard weave, flower pattern one circulation is 2.6m;

The optimum configurations of Japan Toyota JA710 jet type loom is: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, the auxiliary power of spraying 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle is 460 turns/hour, enters the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, and back beam height is-2 scales, and tension force is 160kg, and opening angle is 30 °-35 °, and opening closing time is 290 °;

France history pottery Bill LX320 fills the optimum configurations made and is: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800, porter 65.8/ inch, penetrates several 2, while penetrate several 3, and reed width 145 centimetres, door 135 centimetres.

The clean base physical index obtaining fabric in the present embodiment 3 is:

Base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 210-230g/m 2;

Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal): 0-1.0%/0-3%.

Thickness: 51M/M.

According in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment, the broken yarn of yarn is few, fault is few and phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern is complicated, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.

Embodiment 4

Warp: the weight ratio of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon is 50:50, and the number of described warp is 45s, and twist multiplier is 450; Warp density is 400/10cm; Obtain single-strand yarn by 2 existing compact spinning technologies of pooling capital to form.

Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 35:65, the dawn number of described parallel is 200D, and twist multiplier is 390; Weft density is 230/400/600 every centimetre, and parallel is 2 kinds of colors; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn of 3 sub-thread Porel fibers and terylene to pool capital and forms.

Use Japanese Toyota JA710 jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make to weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and when weaving jacquard weave, flower pattern one circulation is 2.6m;

The optimum configurations of Japan Toyota JA710 jet type loom is: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, the auxiliary power of spraying 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle is 430 turns/hour, enters the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, and back beam height is-2 scales, and tension force is 140kg, and opening angle is 30 °-35 °, and opening closing time is 290 °;

France history pottery Bill LX320 fills the optimum configurations made and is: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800, porter 65.8/ inch, penetrates several 2, while penetrate several 3, and reed width 145 centimetres, door 135 centimetres.

The clean base physical index obtaining fabric in the present embodiment 4 is:

Base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 210-230g/m 2;

Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal): 0-1.0%/0-3%.

Thickness: 51M/M.

According in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment, the broken yarn of yarn is few, fault is few and phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern is complicated, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.

Embodiment 5

Warp: the weight ratio of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon is 45:55, and the number of described warp is 45s, and twist multiplier is 490, and warp density is 460/10cm; Obtain single-strand yarn by 2 existing compact spinning technologies of pooling capital to form;

Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 25:75, the dawn number of described parallel is 100D, and twist multiplier is 370; Weft density is 230/400/600 every centimetre, and the color category of parallel is 3 kinds; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn of 3 sub-thread Porel fibers and terylene to pool capital and forms.

Use Japanese Toyota JA710 jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make to weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and when weaving jacquard weave, flower pattern one circulation is 2.6m;

The optimum configurations of Japan Toyota JA710 jet type loom is: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, the auxiliary power of spraying 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 430-460 turn/hour, entering the latitude time is designed to 90 °, and back beam height is-2 scales, and tension force is 140-160kg, and opening angle is 30 °-35 °, and opening closing time is 290 °;

France history pottery Bill LX320 fills the optimum configurations made and is: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800, porter 65.8/ inch, penetrates several 2, while penetrate several 3, and reed width 145 centimetres, door 135 centimetres.

The clean base physical index obtaining fabric in the present embodiment 5 is:

Base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 210-230g/m 2;

Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal): 0-1.0%/0-3%.

Thickness: 51M/M.

According in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment, the broken yarn of yarn is few, fault is few and phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern is complicated, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.

Embodiment 6

Warp: the weight ratio of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon is 30:70, and the number of described warp is 60s, and twist multiplier is 490, and warp density is 480/10cm; Single-strand yarn is obtained by existing compact spinning technology;

Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 30:70, the dawn number of described parallel is 200D, and twist multiplier is 90; Weft density is 230/400/600/1000 every centimetre; Parallel color category is 6 kinds; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn of 3 sub-thread Porel fibers and terylene to pool capital and forms;

Use Japanese Toyota JA710 jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make to weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and when weaving jacquard weave, flower pattern one circulation is 2.6m;

The optimum configurations of Japan Toyota JA710 jet type loom is: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, the auxiliary power of spraying 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle is 460 turns/hour, enters the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, and back beam height is-2 scales, and tension force is 160kg, and opening angle is 30 °-35 °, and opening closing time is 290 °;

France history pottery Bill LX320 fills the optimum configurations made and is: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800, porter 65.8/ inch, penetrates several 2, while penetrate several 3, and reed width 145 centimetres, door 135 centimetres.

The clean base physical index obtaining fabric in the present embodiment 6 is:

Base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 230-250g/m 2;

Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal): 0-1.0%/0-3%.

Thickness: 55M/M.

According in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment, the broken yarn of yarn is few, fault is few and phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern is complicated, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.

Claims (3)

1. a Zhong Hanma Dai Nationality cloth fabric, interweaved through jacquard by warp and parallel and be made into, it is characterized in that, described warp is the blended yarn of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon, in warp, the weight ratio of Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon is 30-50:50-70, the number of described warp is 60-45s, and twist multiplier is 450-490; Described parallel is the blended yarn of Porel fiber and terylene, and in parallel, the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 20-35:65-80, and the dawn number of described parallel is 100-200D, and twist multiplier is 370-390;
The monofilament twist of described bright rayon is 200 sth. made by twisting/inch, and dawn number is 120D; The number of described Chinese fiber crops is 40s, and the twist is 18 sth. made by twisting/inch;
Described warp adopts the Chinese fiber crops of 2-3 root and the blended yarn plying of bright rayon, and the twist of the warp after plying is 20-50 sth. made by twisting/inch; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn of 2-3 root Porel fiber and terylene plying to form.
2. the Han Ma Dai Nationality as claimed in claim 1 cloth fabric, it is characterized in that, the warp density of described fabric is 405-500 root/10cm.
3. prepare the method for the Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric as described in claim as arbitrary in claim 1-2 for one kind, described method is weaved for warp and parallel being used Japanese Toyota JA710 jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and make fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, when weaving jacquard weave, flower pattern one circulation is 2.6m;
The optimum configurations of Japan Toyota JA710 jet type loom is: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, the auxiliary power of spraying 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 430-460 turn/hour, entering the latitude time is designed to 90 °, and back beam height is-2 scales, and tension force is 140-160kg, and opening angle is 30 °-35 °, and opening closing time is 290 °;
France history pottery Bill LX320 fills the optimum configurations made and is: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800, porter 65.8/ inch, penetrates several 2, while penetrate several 3, and reed width 145 centimetres, door 135 centimetres.
CN201410088712.3A 2014-03-11 2014-03-11 A kind of Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric and production technology thereof CN103820914B (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105350149A (en) * 2015-09-28 2016-02-24 太仓市鑫泰针织有限公司 Production process of imitated-silk chiffon fabric
CN105401305A (en) * 2015-12-17 2016-03-16 常熟市荣程纺织品有限公司 Fabric capable of adjusting body temperature
WO2018086103A1 (en) * 2016-11-14 2018-05-17 曹阳 Improved yarn-dyed fabric
WO2018090270A1 (en) * 2016-11-17 2018-05-24 陈霞 Yarn-dyed fabric having excellent performance

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CN102121155A (en) * 2011-03-21 2011-07-13 盐城悦弘织造有限公司 High-count high-density jacquard China hemp bedding fabric and product
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CN102534934A (en) * 2010-12-07 2012-07-04 天津天纺投资控股有限公司 Cotton georgette jacquard fabric and processing process thereof
CN202297989U (en) * 2011-10-09 2012-07-04 上海南方寝饰用品有限公司 Home textile fabric with interweaved viscose fibres and polyester fibres
CN103147208A (en) * 2013-03-29 2013-06-12 西双版纳汉麻农业科技有限公司 China-hemp jacquard fabric

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CN102534934A (en) * 2010-12-07 2012-07-04 天津天纺投资控股有限公司 Cotton georgette jacquard fabric and processing process thereof
CN102121155A (en) * 2011-03-21 2011-07-13 盐城悦弘织造有限公司 High-count high-density jacquard China hemp bedding fabric and product
CN102367614A (en) * 2011-06-09 2012-03-07 吴江市鑫凤织造有限公司 Artificial silk hollow check pattern plus material
CN202297989U (en) * 2011-10-09 2012-07-04 上海南方寝饰用品有限公司 Home textile fabric with interweaved viscose fibres and polyester fibres
CN103147208A (en) * 2013-03-29 2013-06-12 西双版纳汉麻农业科技有限公司 China-hemp jacquard fabric

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