CN107151855B - The method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer - Google Patents

The method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer Download PDF

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CN107151855B
CN107151855B CN201710529683.3A CN201710529683A CN107151855B CN 107151855 B CN107151855 B CN 107151855B CN 201710529683 A CN201710529683 A CN 201710529683A CN 107151855 B CN107151855 B CN 107151855B
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yarn
fabric
20min
cotton
latitude
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CN107151855A (en
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王圣杰
凌良仲
刘莹莹
孙仁斌
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Jiangsu Yueda Home Textile Products Co Ltd
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JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C9/00—Singeing
    • D06C9/02—Singeing by flame
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/10—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen
    • D06L4/12—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen combined with specific additives
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/10—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen
    • D06L4/13—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen using inorganic agents
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/11—Starch or derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
    • D06M15/333—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
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    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/66—Natural or regenerated cellulose using reactive dyes
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
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  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
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Abstract

A kind of method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer：Warp thread is combed cotton yarn, 14.6tex, through it is close be 472/10cm；Weft yarn chooses three kinds of specification yarns, and latitude one is combing twine cotton, and 14.6tex*2, latitude is second is that air-flow spinning yarn, 58.3tex, latitude three are air spinning twine cottons, and 58.3tex*2, filling density is 374/10cm；It is organized as the big Developing of Jacquard Weave of six layer tissues；Fabric width is 280cm；The weaving step of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer is：Successively by through starching the warp thread of connection and technique of gaiting and passing through the weft yarn of kiering dyeing, after being weaved by the big jacquard loom of arrow shaft, correcting.

Description

The method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, the method for weaving of specifically a kind of big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer.
Background technology
With the fast development of modern science and technology and social economy, people's living standard improves, and consumption idea is gradually to fashion Comfortably, the functionalization direction of health care is developed.Bed necessaries belong to rigid demand product, and people are initially to the demand of bed necessaries only to protect Nowadays warm effect becomes and follows the fashion, the symbolic product of high-quality life, bedding have been incorporated many streams of epochal character Row element, people also become to be getting faster to the renewal speed of household bed necessaries.
Disposably it is made into the Multilayer plus material that every layer of yarn count density is different and is stiched together using jacquard, between every layer all There is binding place to prevent from shifting, clear patterns.In six layer tissues every layer with different densities and the weft yarn of fineness, intermediate roving count is close Spend small, more outer layer yarn count is thinner, and density is bigger, can form air layer, and gas permeability is good, absorbing sweat, quick-drying, not sultry and warming.Six Layer tissue can make inner layer be coated with full air, and the stitch weave of comfort multiplication junction again closely ties every layer It closes, by multiple washing, more washing can be more soft for the material of multilayered structure, the more washes the more fluffy sense of touch and pliability is become better and better. Fabric has both good heat insulating ability, gas permeability, water imbibition and rapid-drying properties.On raw material, using purified cotton yarns, fine length and have Toughness, it is not easy to break, tiny lint will not be caused to come off.In process of production, it avoids using fluorescer using environment-protective process Etc. harmful substance, reduce environmental pollution.
Multilayer tissue's pattern fabric by two groups and warp thread more than two respectively with two groups and weft yarns more than two and Into being segmented into table, inner two levels or many levels in institutional framework.With again through weight latitude pattern fabric compared with, multilayer tissue Pattern fabric increases the group number of yarn, therefore the choice increase on raw material and color matching through weft yarn.Utilize different groups Various colors can be shown by knitting structure change and its collocation, can so as to make the color of multilayer tissue's pattern fabric extremely abundant The complicated color representation of coloured image scene, oil painting, decoration painting is come out, can be applied in sofa fabric, bedcover, curtain and color images Jing Shang.
Invention content
This programme mainly studies the key technology of design and the production of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, develops multilayer Cotton jacquard carpet surface material, can according to color matching and patterning design different-style multilayer jacquard fabrics.The present invention focuses on fabric Specification, the design of flower pattern and color matching are designed using the big Jacquard Weaving to match, by the advantage of the equipment such as company's weaving, are ground The big jacquard blanket of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer processed can select different specifications and yarn count, obtain the multilayer jacquard fabric that thickness differs.
Originally specification 280cm " JC14.6tex that this project is manufactured experimently × (JC14.6tex × 2 (color)+OEC58.3tex+ OEC58.3tex × 2+OEC58.3tex × 2+OEC58.3tex+JC14.6tex × 2) 472 × 374 pieces/10cm all-cotton yarn-dyeds are more The big jacquard blanket fabric of layer.
A kind of big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, warp thread are combed cotton yarns, 14.6tex, through it is close be 472/10cm； Weft yarn chooses three kinds of specification yarns, and latitude one is combing twine cotton, and 14.6tex*2, latitude is second is that air-flow spinning yarn, 58.3tex, latitude three It is air spinning twine cotton, 58.3tex*2, filling density is 374/10cm；It is organized as the big Developing of Jacquard Weave of six layer tissues.Finished product width Width is 280cm.
A kind of production method of the fabric, step include：
2) dyeing and finishing：Fabric, which turns over, to be stitched → move back and boil → and shapes → softness → product inspection clot；
In the step 1),
(1), warp thread through starch connection technique
Using sizing warper, a double-clip-double-nip starching mechanism has been added between the bobbin cradle and head of sectional warper With a set of drying cylinder formula drying mechanism.
The PVA20550kg of selection complete alcoholysis, converted starch 50kg (converted starch preferably 123 type denaturation cornstarch, PVA polyvinyl alcohol, the preferred PVA205 of model), the control of the temperature of stock tank is at 35 DEG C~40 DEG C, and the control of slurries solid content is 9%, slurry Liquid viscosity 8s~9s.Stock tank slurry temperature is at 50 DEG C hereinafter, slurry temperature is controlled by mixing cirtern.
The sizing warper uses Pneumatic Pressure, and the front is high and the back is low for the pressure selection of squeezing roller.First squeezing roller pressure 0.44MPa, actual pressure about 3200N using larger pressure, can make being impregnated with for warp thread more preferable, the second squeezing roller pressure 0.28MPa, actual pressure about 2100N can improve yarn coating.Squeezing roller pressure can be taken into account using the pattern that the front is high and the back is low The enhancing of yarn and wear-resisting.Sized warp moisture regain is controlled 7.0% or so.Regain is excessively high, and yarn can be adhered, easily long-pending at menopause tablet Poly- flyings；Regain is too low, and brittle failure head can increase in weaving process.Drying chamber steam pressure will be according to the line density of yarn and yarn Radical determines, steam pressure is necessary≤0.3MPa.During booting, the condensed water in drying cylinder is first bled off using steam pressure, otherwise It may cause drying tube temperature that preset requirement is not achieved, cause yarn regain bigger than normal.In production process, spinner wants side to produce Frontier inspection looks into the regain of sizing, and regain is bigger than normal, can turn steam pressure down, and regain is less than normal, it is possible to increase steam pressure, but cannot More than 0.3MPa.Beam of a loom withdrawal speed 70m/min, whole slurry speed 55m/min~60m/min.
(2), the kiering dyeing of weft yarn
Technological process：Raw yarn detects → singes → reeling → pre-treatment (kiering, bleaching) → dyeing → final finishing → dehydration Strand → waxing → packaging and warehousing is fallen in drying → semi-finished product detect →.
1st, raw yarn detects
Raw yarn (processing yarn still sells yarn) has to pass through stringent detection, including strength, moisture regain, the twist, number, with And the dry cotton junction number of item.
2nd, it singes
After spinning processing, yam surface can generate many fine hair, need to singe to yarn.Purified cotton yarns are singed use Gas singeing machine, 1000 ± 50 DEG C of singeing fire hole temperature, linear velocity 1000r/min.
3rd, reeling
Cylinder yarn after singing is shaken into the reeled yarn of fixed frame length on reeling frame, to facilitate the following process such as yarn dyeing. Reeled yarn quality settings is often twist 250g.
4th, pre-treatment (kiering, bleaching)
Technological process：It water inlet → addition scouring agent, soda ash, liquid caustic soda → plus hydrogen peroxide (8g/L, 95 DEG C, 20min) → plus oozes Saturating agent (0.5g/L, 90 DEG C, 20min) → hot water wash (70 DEG C, 10min) → pickling, enzyme wash (acetic acid 0.3g/L, 45 DEG C, 10min； The cellulase 0.08g/L of model TY, 45 DEG C, 20min)
Technology preparation/(g/L)
5th, it dyes
Dyeing installation injecting type hank-dyeing machine
Technological process：Material → dyeing → plus salt promote dye (20min) → plus alkali fixation (75min) → drain → washing
Technology preparation (color matching of certain specific color)
Points for attention：Running check bundle dyeing situation is needed in dyeing course, to prevent yarn from twisting bad；It is needed after dyeing It takes out 1~2 reeled yarn to soap to color, prevents aberration excessive, and carry out complementary color in time.
6th, dyeing post processing
Technological process：Pickling (0.8g/L acetic acid, 40 DEG C, 20min) → hot water wash (95 DEG C, 20min, 2 times) → (type of soaping Number it is formulated for DZ-652 soaping agents 2g/L and model DA-701 soaping agents 2g/L) → cold water washes (room temperature × 5min, 2 times) → to color → fixation (model DG-801 color fixing agent 3%, 45 DEG C, 20min) → soft (acetic acid 0.15g/L, 801 type softening agents 1.5g/L (the optional soft brand in east), 45 DEG C, 20min) → dehydration → drying
7th, it dries
Dehydration, drying, need before drying to color, and measure every color fastness of yarn after dyeing soap boiling.It should if pinpointing the problems It returns something for repairs, is dried again after qualified in time.
8th, semi-finished product detect
Single yarn stretches 6 times and takes its average value, and strongly not less than 3.5N, staining fastness requires to reach 3~4 grades, pH value control System is 7~8.
9th, it falls to twist, waxing (one-pass molding)
Yarn is being twisted, is being waxed after the assay was approved.According to the difference of the count of yarn, processing speed is about 450r/ min。
(3), it gaits
Porter is that (tooth/2 inch) are 77#；Reed width is 290cm；Middle support is put at the reed width 150.6cm of the left side；Ground tissue is comprehensive Threading method is suitable wears；The comprehensive threading method of Selvage Stitch is suitable wears；Ground tissue it is comprehensive enter number be 1；Selvage Stitch it is comprehensive enter number be 1；Ground tissue reed enters number 3；It is 3 that Selvage Stitch reed, which enters number,；Menopause tablet threading method is 1,2,3,4,5,6；Using plastic heddle；
(4), arrow shaft dobby machine (can use 304 types) is weaved
Speed is 250rpm；Weft density on machine is 364/10cm；The pattern that is open is jacquard head；Opening time is 315 degree； It it is 65 degree into the sword time；It is 180 degree to connect the sword time；Pre-tension is 400kg；Temperature and relative humidity are 23 DEG C~27 DEG C respectively With 73%~79%；
(5), it modifies
Lump length 120m；Every overall length 240m；Every cloth weight 220kg；Into packet regain 9.5%；
In the step 2),
(1), it moves back and boils
Technology preparation (/gL-1)
2000L type desizing enzyme (such as Novi's letter production) 1~3
Penetrating agent JFC (fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether) 2~3
Scouring agent (being suitable for the refining agent of cotton yarn, no particular requirement) 5~10
PH value 6.5~7
Technological process：Warm water (70~80 DEG C) → pad is padded to move back boil liquid (two leachings two, which are rolled, (first soaks, rolls primary, then soaking, roll Once), pick-up 80%~100%) → decatize (100~102 DEG C, 60min) → hot water wash → cold water washes
(2), it shapes
In order to not influence the feel and wearability of fabric, setting temperature can not be excessively high, is generally advisable with 150~160 DEG C, 45~60s of time.
(3), soft finish
Using cellulase (β-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-glucan -4- glucan hydrolases) soft finish, technology preparation is:
Specific embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the present invention is further described：
Trial-manufacture technology
1 sample technical indicator to be achieved
The big jacquard blanket fabric technical indicator to be achieved of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer of this project research and development has：1st, each layer of fabric It can organically be combined together and not make binding place excessive.2nd, the inherent index of fabric quality and presentation quality meet relevant criterion Grade A requirement.
2 product standards
(1) GB18401-2010 national general safety technical code for textile products B classes
(2) FZ/T 61005-2006 cotton blankets
The technical issues of being solved in 3 trial-productions
Design of the main research of project for the specification of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, tissue and flower pattern, Initial idea just hopes that making can directly replace the fabric of summer cool quilt, and the big jacquard blanket fabric of this all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer belongs to a kind of High-grade novelty fabric.In the design and production process of fabric, under the requirement and cloth cover looped weft unanimous circumstances of multilayer tissue, To denting, latitude and synthesis group is selected to be woven with special requirement, this is the difficult point of the fabric design.
(1) how fabric specification, which designs, can meet grammes per square metre and cloth cover effect, and how fabric longitude and latitude yarn count and thread count match Conjunction can bring out the best in each other, the ratio reasonable disposition between the thread count of every layer of structure.
(2) how pre-treatment can meet weaving and cloth cover effect to yarn.Since weft yarn has a kind of specification for dyed yarn, then remaining Non- dyed yarn yarn be required for as boiled yarn.
(3) several layers of tissues is selected, which kind of tissue binding can meet process specification.With reference to the design for selecting latitude, institutional framework For six layer tissues, using three kinds of specification weft yarns, by dyed yarn and beyber yarn reasonable disposition, fabric is made to have levels, three-dimensional sense is strong, in Interbed yarn is hidden wherein, sandwich bending, the effect for having a kind of innervation laid, and fabric has both beautiful and comfortable effect.
(4) weaving process of uniaxial weaving multiple layer jacquard fabric, the rational design of six layer tissues ensure when single shaft is weaved Every layer of shrinkage is consistent.
(5) select the configuration of suitable type, how drawn needle can meet design through close specification requirement.
The present invention 6 layer tissue structures of design, upper epidermis and layer use plain weave, and weft density setting is relatively high, Structure relative close, inner 2,3,4,5 layers form fluffy structure by low weft density, thicker air-flow spinning yarn as weft yarn, Suitable floral designs are designed, decorative pattern Ridge tracing is stitch weave, by the reasonable layout of binding place, makes 6 laminated reason bindings, And form certain decorative pattern, so as to reach it is fluffy it is plentiful, quality is light and soft, the resultant effect of moisture absorbing and sweat releasing, Comfortable attractive.Product exists The jacquard loom last time is molded, and technological process is short, less energy consumption, and added value is high.For the two-sided of blanket fabric while the spy that shows If the weft yarn of upper epidermis and layer selection different colours, there is double-sided effect in point.
2nd, trial-manufacturing process
1 design concept
Feature Development Rule according to the big jacquard blanket of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer：
(1) produce a kind of blanket of multilayered structure using existing loom, assign fabric it is fluffy it is plentiful, quality is light and soft, inhales It is wet perspire, the performance of Comfortable attractive, increase practicality and the aesthetics of blanket.
(2) choose cotton make raw material, woven pure-cotton fabric it is very more to the benefit of human body, human body can be maintained The environment of the metabolism of itself, breathes freely comfortable, does not add harmful substance.Consumer can be met to " multi-functional, multipurpose " It pursues, is ideal household textiles in modern life at home.
(3) air layer face fabric shows the abundant appearance of concave-convex skin texture, and gracefulness is created by jacquard weave weaving And dynamic texture, and inject a scientific and technological texture for soft fabric.
2 raw material specifications design
In order to highlight the class of fabric and comfort level, warp thread uses combed cotton 14.6tex (40S) yarn, and weft yarn uses three kinds The cotton yarn of specification, upper epidermis, layer weft yarn be combed cotton 14.6tex*2 (40S/2), inner two, inner five layers of weft yarn For air-flow spinning yarn 58.3tex (10S), inner three, inner four layers of weft yarn be air-flow spinning yarn 58.3tex*2 (10S/2), our company Grope by drawing a design, according to grammes per square metre and style, finally determining fabric specification is 280cm JC14.6 (40S) * (JC14.6tex*2 (color)+OEC58.3tex+OEC58.3tex*2+OEC58.3tex*2+OEC58.3tex+JC14.6te x*2) 472*374 roots/ 10cm colors knit big jacquard weave
The technological design of 3 multi-layer blanket fabrics
The specification of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer of the present invention：472/10cm of warp-wise density, latitudinal density 374 Root/10cm, six layer tissue design methods of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer are as follows：
(1) in the case where specifications design is good, it is 13200 to calculate total quantity of warps.
(2) MULTILAYER COMPOSITE tissue is designed：By repeatedly groping, first, second, third and fourth, five, six layer finally is pressed through close through close The ratio between be followed successively by 2:2:2:2:1:2, when doing tissue in this arrangement ratio of warp thread, third and fourth layer is intermediate two layers first directly conjunction It is synthesized into a double-layered structure, then with remaining tissue.
(3) latitude is selected to set：It is 3 according to the ratio between practical filling density:1:1:1:1:3, second, five layer of weft yarn specification is consistent, therefore Latitude is selected to be set to latitude two, third and fourth layer directly synthesizes a double-layered structure, therefore the 4th layer of third layer selects latitude to be set to Latitude three, latitude one are set as JC14.6tex*2 (dyed yarn), and latitude two is set as 58.3tex, and latitude three is set as 58.3tex*2, and latitude four is set It is set to JC14.6tex*2, is designed according to process specification, latitude is selected to be set as four latitude of latitude one latitude, two latitudes, four latitudes, one latitude, three latitudes, three latitude, one latitude Two latitudes 41 recycle.
(4) tissue synthesizes：According to above-mentioned longitude and latitude ratio and arrangement, tissue synthesis is carried out with Zhejiang University's longitude and latitude CAD software.
(5) artistic conception designs
Artistic conception design designs the length and width of flower pattern, since final use will make blanket, so having to flower pattern Certain requirement, exactly bonded place cannot account for too many area, but have enough bindings again, can neither exactly destroy fabric Softness with it is fluffy, Multilayer plus material is made to combine again, in the geometrical pattern for doing this, initially it is expected that flower pattern Wide height is all 15cm, and 5040 needle/145 are made with reference to dress, and maximum spends width as 88.28cm, and the present invention is done in a complete flower pattern cycle It makees six small design even to shine, finely tune as the wide 14.71cm of flower pattern, according to being 695 needles through the close thread number for calculating and going out needs, It is vertical lattice number 690 according to tissue and through close fine tuning.Similarly, the length of flower pattern about 15cm, according to needed for filling density calculates flower pattern length The thread number wanted is 561 needles, is changed to lined number 560.
(5) scale designs
This pattern fabric is weaved on arrow shaft ALPHA type needle electronic jacquard machines, and the existing thread number made that fills of our company is 5040 Needle shares 14 row, 360 rows, 168 needle of side needle, 8 needles of shuttle box needle.Drawn needle, conjunctive tissue and warp are carried out now according to grammes per square metre Close, effective thread number is 4140 needles, to take out 900 line needles.
(6) Selvage Stitch is designed, generates line version：Selvage Stitch is rationally designed according to picking and weft density, generates line version.This project It is that five times latitude galassings on five are used according to picking and weft density, then generates line version.Into the generation line version work(of jacquard weaving CAD system Can, after clicking " generation line version ", system automatically forms line version.
(7) arrow shaft is weaved：Loom matches the rapier loom of electronic jacquard for extra width single loom beam, and door width is 110 inches. Woven technological design is：472/10cm of warp-wise density, 374/10cm of latitudinal density, six layer tissues.It is 250 to weave speed Rev/min.
(8) it modifies
(9) desizing, preshrunk, sizing, washing：It is fixed to damp and hot sizing.
The method of technological difficulties and solution in 4 trial-productions
The technological difficulties of the big jacquard blanket of this all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer are：1) selection of yarn, the selection including raw material and yarn count. Yarn pre-treatment is most important, and through weft yarn all with boiled yarn, the kiering degree of warp thread and weft yarn is inconsistent, grasp respectively warp thread and The kiering degree of weft yarn；2) design of multilayer tissue, the organizational choice of this multi-layer blanket fabric is six layer tissues, and grain pattern is related to How the synthesis of six layer tissues with reference to the longitude and latitude of each layer arranges the difficult point that is Ridge tracing the design that carries out synthetic tissue, if It synthesizes bad, difficulty of weaving can be increased, and occur reed road and open reed on cloth cover.
5 trial results
After the completion of manufacturing experimently the big jacquard blanket of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, our company summarizes the relevant technologies, all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer How the design of big jacquard blanket is mutually arranged with reference to multilayer tissue, filling yarn density and thread count if focusing on, give expression to ideal Effect, and fabric thickness is moderate, neither too hard, nor too soft.Our company has carried out the fabric of trial-production the progress such as ultimate strength, color fastness Test, test result comply with standard.
Breadth：280cm
Through close：472/10cm
Filling density：374/10cm
Gram Mass：330g/m2
Technological design：
First, product specification
Fabric specification：280cm " JC14.6tex × (JC14.6tex × 2 (color)+OEC58.3tex+OEC58.3tex × 2+ OEC58.3tex × 2+OEC58.3tex+JC14.6tex × 2) 472 × 374 pieces/the big jacquard weave carpet surface of 10cm all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayers Material.
2nd, production process
Weaving --->Running repair is whole --->Dyeing and finishing is processed.
The big jacquard blanket fabric of this all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, warp thread are combed cotton yarns, 14.6tex, through it is close be 472/10cm；Latitude Yarn chooses three kinds of specification yarns, and latitude one is combing twine cotton, and 14.6tex*2, latitude is second is that air-flow spinning yarn, 58.3tex, latitude three are Air spinning twine cotton, 58.3tex*2, filling density are 374/10cm；It is organized as the big Developing of Jacquard Weave of six layer tissues.Fabric width For 280cm.
The method for weaving of this fabric, step are：
The warp thread through slurry connection and technique of gaiting and the weft yarn by kiering dyeing is passed through successively, by the big jacquard weave of arrow shaft After loom is weaved, correct；
The warp thread through slurry connection technique requirement be：
Using sizing warper, a double-clip-double-nip starching has exactly been added between the bobbin cradle of sectional warper and head Machine and a set of baking cylindrical dryer；In the current direction of production line, double-clip-double-nip starching machine dries cylindrical dryer and exists preceding Afterwards；
It is 1 that mass fraction is used in slurries：The PVA and converted starch of 1 complete alcoholysis, stock tank temperature control 35 DEG C~ 40 DEG C, the control of slurries solid content 9%, serum viscosity 8s~9 this；Stock tank slurry temperature is at 50 DEG C hereinafter, slurry temperature is by adjusting Slurry bucket controls；
The sizing warper is by Pneumatic Pressure, and the front is high and the back is low for the pressure selection of squeezing roller, the first squeezing roller pressure 0.44MPa, the second squeezing roller pressure 0.28MPa；Sized warp moisture regain is controlled 7.0%；Drying chamber steam pressure steam pressure≤ 0.3MPa；During booting, the condensed water in drying cylinder is first exhausted；In production process, regain is adjusted, and steam by adjusting steam pressure Steam pressure is no more than 0.3MPa；Beam of a loom withdrawal speed 70m/min, whole slurry speed 55m/min~60m/min；
The technological requirement of gaiting of the warp thread is：It is 77#, reed width is 290cm that the porter of reed, which is (tooth/2 inch), the left side Middle support is put at reed width 150.6cm；Tissue comprehensive threading method in ground is suitable wears；The comprehensive threading method of Selvage Stitch is suitable wears；Ground tissue it is comprehensive enter number be 1； Selvage Stitch it is comprehensive enter number be 1；It is 3 that ground tissue reed, which enters number,；It is 3 that Selvage Stitch reed, which enters number,；Menopause tablet threading method is 1,2,3,4,5,6；Using Plastic heddle；
The step of kiering dyeing of the weft yarn is：Raw yarn detects → singes → reeling → kiering, bleaching → dyeing → post processing → dewatered drying → semi-finished product detect → falls strand → waxing → packaging and warehousing；
In step of singing, purified cotton yarns are singed using gas singeing machine, 1000 ± 50 DEG C of singeing fire hole temperature, linear velocity 1000r/min；
In reeling step, the cylinder yarn after singing is shaken into the reeled yarn of fixed frame length on reeling frame, reeled yarn quality settings are Often twist 250g.
Kiering, the technological process bleached are：Water inlet → addition scouring agent, soda ash, liquid caustic soda → plus 8g/L hydrogen peroxide, 95 DEG C Lower processing 20min → add 0.5g/L bleeding agents handles 20min → with 70 DEG C of hot water wash 10min → and uses 0.3g/L acetic acid at 90 DEG C The pickling 10min → enzyme washes 20min at 45 DEG C with the cellulase of 0.08g/L at 45 DEG C；
In staining procedure, dyeing installation is injecting type hank-dyeing machine, and technological process is：Dyeing is handled at material → 80 DEG C 20min → plus salt promote dye processing 20min → plus alkali fixation treatment 75min → drain → washing；
Material is to match colorant according to color, then colorant is dissolved in solution and forms dyestuff, in dyestuff：It is anhydrous sodium sulphate 90g/L, pure Alkali 20g/L, levelling agent 0.2g/L, bath raio are 1:15；
Dye the technological process of post processing：Pickling 20min → 95 DEG C hot water wash 20min at 40 DEG C of 0.8g/L acetic acid, totally 2 times → soap → room temperature cold water washes 5min, totally 2 times → to being handled at 45 DEG C of 20min → softening agent of processing at 45 DEG C of color → color fixing agent 20min；
Semi-finished product detect：Single yarn stretches and takes its average value 6 times, and strongly not less than 3.5N, staining fastness requires to reach 3~ 4 grades, pH value is controlled 7~8；
Twist and wax one-pass molding, and processing speed is 450r/min；
The big jacquard loom of arrow shaft carries out woven requirement：Loom speed is 250rpm；Weft density on machine is 364/10cm； The pattern that is open is jacquard head；Opening time is 315 degree；It it is 65 degree into the sword time；It is 180 degree to connect the sword time；Pre-tension is 400kg；The temperature and relative humidity of environment are 23 DEG C~27 DEG C and 73%~79% respectively；
Finishing：Lump length 120m；Every overall length 240m；Every cloth weight 220kg；Into packet regain 9.5%.
The whole dyeing method of this fabric, step are：Fabric, which turns over, to be stitched → move back and boil → and shapes → soft finish → product inspection clot；
Moving back the requirement boiled is：
Technology preparation：1~3g/L of desizing enzyme 2000L, 2~3g/L of penetrating agent JFC, 5~10g/L of scouring agent, pH value 6.5 ~7；
Technological process：Pad → pad in 70~80 DEG C of warm water move back boil liquid using it is secondary leaching it is secondary roll, pick-up 80%~ 100% → 100~102 DEG C of decatize 60min → hot water wash → cold water are washed；
Setting requires：150~160 DEG C of 45~60s of setting processing；
Soft finish：Using cellulase soft finish, it is desirable that be:It is 5, bath raio that cellulase, which is 3% (owf), pH value, It is 50min, temperature 1: 20, time is 50 DEG C to be.
The testing result of this fabric is as follows：

Claims (1)

1. a kind of method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, it is characterized in that the big jacquard blanket of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer Fabric：
Warp thread is combed cotton yarn, 14.6tex, through it is close be 472/10cm；
Weft yarn chooses three kinds of specification yarns, and latitude one is combing twine cotton, 14.6tex*2, and latitude is second is that air-flow spinning yarn, 58.3tex, Latitude three is air spinning twine cotton, and 58.3tex*2, filling density is 374/10cm；
It is organized as the big Developing of Jacquard Weave of six layer tissues；Fabric width is 280cm；
The weaving step of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer is：
The warp thread through slurry connection and technique of gaiting and the weft yarn by kiering dyeing is passed through successively, by the big jacquard loom of arrow shaft After being weaved, correct；
The warp thread through slurry connection technique requirement be：
Using sizing warper, exactly added between the bobbin cradle of sectional warper and head a double-clip-double-nip starching machine and A set of baking cylindrical dryer；In the current direction of production line, double-clip-double-nip starching machine dries cylindrical dryer rear preceding；
It is 1 that mass fraction is used in slurries：The PVA and converted starch of 1 complete alcoholysis, the temperature of stock tank are controlled 35 DEG C~40 DEG C, the control of slurries solid content is 9%, serum viscosity 8s~9s；Stock tank slurry temperature is at 50 DEG C hereinafter, slurry temperature is by mixing cirtern Control；
The sizing warper is by Pneumatic Pressure, and the front is high and the back is low for the pressure selection of squeezing roller, the first squeezing roller pressure 0.44MPa, the Two squeezing roller pressure 0.28MPa；Sized warp moisture regain is controlled 7.0%；Drying chamber steam pressure≤0.3MPa；During booting, first exhaust Condensed water in drying cylinder；In production process, regain is adjusted, and steam pressure is no more than 0.3MPa by adjusting steam pressure； Beam of a loom withdrawal speed 70m/min, whole slurry speed 55m/min~60m/min；
The technological requirement of gaiting of the warp thread is：It is 290cm that the porter of reed, which is 77#, reed width, is put at the reed width 150.6cm of the left side Middle support；Tissue comprehensive threading method in ground is suitable wears；The comprehensive threading method of Selvage Stitch is suitable wears；Ground tissue it is comprehensive enter number be 1；Selvage Stitch it is comprehensive enter number be 1； It is 3 that ground tissue reed, which enters number,；It is 3 that Selvage Stitch reed, which enters number,；Menopause tablet threading method is 1,2,3,4,5,6；Using plastic heddle；
The step of kiering dyeing of the weft yarn is：Raw yarn detects → singes → and reeling → kiering, bleaching → dyeing → after Strand → waxing → packaging and warehousing is fallen in processing → dewatered drying → semi-finished product detect →；
In step of singing, purified cotton yarns are singed using gas singeing machine, 1000 ± 50 DEG C of singeing fire hole temperature, linear velocity 1000r/ min；
In reeling step, the cylinder yarn after singing is shaken into the reeled yarn of fixed frame length on reeling frame, reeled yarn quality settings is often twist 250g；
Kiering, the technological process bleached are：Water inlet → addition scouring agent, soda ash, liquid caustic soda → plus 8g/L hydrogen peroxide, at 95 DEG C 20min → plus 0.5g/L bleeding agents are managed, processing 20min → with 70 DEG C of hot water wash 10min → uses 0.3g/L acetic acid 45 at 90 DEG C Pickling 10min at DEG C → with the cellulase of 0.08g/L, enzyme washes 20min at 45 DEG C；
In staining procedure, dyeing installation is injecting type hank-dyeing machine, and technological process is：Dyeing is handled at material → 80 DEG C 20min → plus salt promote dye processing 20min → plus alkali fixation treatment 75min → drain → washing；
Material is to match colorant according to color, then colorant is dissolved in solution and forms dyestuff, in dyestuff：Anhydrous sodium sulphate 90g/L, soda ash 20g/L, levelling agent 0.2g/L, bath raio are 1:15；
Dye the technological process of post processing：Pickling 20min → 95 DEG C hot water wash 20min at 40 DEG C of 0.8g/L acetic acid, totally 2 times → soap Wash → room temperature cold water washes 5min, totally 2 times → to handling 20min at 45 DEG C of 20min → softening agent of processing at 45 DEG C of color → color fixing agent；
Semi-finished product detect：Single yarn stretches 6 times and takes its average value, and strongly not less than 3.5N, staining fastness requires to reach 3~4 grades, PH value is controlled 7~8；
Twist and wax one-pass molding, and processing speed is 450r/min；
The big jacquard loom of arrow shaft carries out woven requirement：Loom speed is 250rpm；Weft density on machine is 374/10cm；Opening Pattern is jacquard head；Opening time is 315 degree；It it is 65 degree into the sword time；It is 180 degree to connect the sword time；Pre-tension is 400kg；The temperature and relative humidity of environment are 23 DEG C~27 DEG C and 73%~79% respectively；
Finishing：Lump length 120m；Every overall length 240m；Every cloth weight 220kg；Into packet regain 9.5%.
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