CN108130648B - Four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents
Four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric and production method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN108130648B CN108130648B CN201810012382.8A CN201810012382A CN108130648B CN 108130648 B CN108130648 B CN 108130648B CN 201810012382 A CN201810012382 A CN 201810012382A CN 108130648 B CN108130648 B CN 108130648B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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Abstract
The invention discloses a four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric, which has the following grey cloth specification: 106 "JCF 100/2 mercerization x JCF80/2 mercerization 200 x 180, finished product specification: 106 "JCF 100/2 mercerization x JCF80/2 mercerization 203 x 183. The design of the invention takes flowers and birds as subject matters to express a vigorous natural beauty, every flower is flourishing and brocade, the color is bright, the atmosphere is joyful and hot, the bottom color adopts the most popular yellow and rose, the color is rich and the style is gorgeous, the design and weaving adopts four-color weft yarns to be interwoven with one-color warp yarns, and the warp and weft yarn float and sink design method is determined by the color display proportion, so that the fabric with strong stereoscopic impression, clear cloth cover flower type and rich colors is obtained.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of spinning, and particularly relates to a four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric and a production method thereof.
Background
With the continuous improvement of living standard and the continuous updating of consumption concept of people, the requirements of people on the design and color variety of household textile fabrics are also continuously improved, the fabric with the printing effect is expected to be made by the yarn-dyed jacquard technology, the pattern color is clear and rich, the level is full, and the whole fabric has strong stereoscopic impression.
Pure cotton yarn-dyed double-mercerized jacquard bedding fabric is generally formed by interweaving one-color warp yarns and one-color or two-color weft yarns, and patterns of various levels and colors can be presented on the surface of the fabric by means of the change of the fineness, the color and the pattern color of the yarns. The more patterns and colors are, the more complex the levels are, the more the colors of weft yarns are, for example, the three-color or four-color weft yarns are generally needed for the Fuanna pure cotton yarn-dyed double-mercerized jacquard bedding fabric, and the difficulty of design and production is obviously increased. At present, a common design method in designing four-color weft yarn-dyed jacquard bedding fabric is a weft double-weave color display method, the fabric designed by the design method has no layering, and is stiff, so that the aim of improving the grade of the fabric by using multi-color weft yarns cannot be fulfilled.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the continuous improvement of the requirements of people on the design and color variety of household textile fabrics, the invention provides a production method of a four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric, the process flow is shown as the attached drawing 10, and the production method comprises the following steps:
a warp yarn treatment step: unpacking, inspecting, dyeing and pulp-linking the raw materials;
weft yarn treatment: unpacking, inspecting and dyeing the raw materials;
pattern forming: designing a pattern, and laying tissues to generate a pattern plate;
finally, the fabric is formed by weaving, checking and finishing, dyeing and finishing;
the flower type is designed by taking flowers and birds as subject materials, the flower layer, the leaf layer and the ground layer are sequentially arranged from the upper layer to the lower layer, and the bird pattern at least comprises 5 yarn colors.
The flower layer is divided into 6 layers, the leaf layer is divided into 3 layers, and the ground layer is 1 layer; the bird in the bird pattern is Cuiguan, the bird pattern color is warp yarn rose red, and the weft yarn color comprises red, green, yellow and white.
The tissue laying comprises fabric specification design, texture process design, artistic designing and sample card design.
The fabric specification design warp adopts JCF100/2 mercerizing, and the weft adopts JCF80/2 mercerizing. According to design experience, weft density of four-color wefts is designed to be 180; the weaving process design is designed by taking 8 and 16 satins as basic tissues, finally, 6 layers are formed on a flower, the brightest and most prominent layer is white, 16 7 flying weft surface satins are adopted as weft yarns 24, the effect of displaying white by using single-color weft floating length is utilized, weft yarns of other three colors are hidden under warp yarns, light yellow in the flower is displayed by yellow weft yarns and a little white weft yarns, 16 7 flying weft surface satins are adopted as yellow weft yarns, 16 7 flying reinforcing 8 warp points are adopted as white weft yarns, one reinforcing point and the weft yarns form plain weave interweaving, the lightest green color in a leaf layer is displayed by the floating length of green weft yarns and white weft yarns which are arranged alternately, 16 flying weft surface satins are adopted as weft yarns, and 16 flying weft yarns are used for 7 reinforcing 6 warp points.
The design pattern width of the artistic design is 64.01cm, the number of vertical grids is 5040, the length of the pattern is 72.24cm, and the number of horizontal grids is 5120.
The sample card is designed according to the number of the tattooing needles 5040; a side needle 168 needle, shuttle box needle 8 needle design.
The warp yarn raw material and the weft yarn raw material of the four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric are both 100% long stapled cotton compact spun plied yarn.
The four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric produced by the method has the following grey cloth specification: 106 "JCF 100S/2 mercerization x JCF80S/2 mercerization 200 x 180, finished product specification: 106 "JCF 100S/2 mercerization x JCF80S/2 mercerization x 203 183.
The invention has the technical effects that: (1) the design of the invention takes flowers and birds as subject matters to express a vigorous natural beautiful scene, and in the picture, each flower is flourishing and has a bright and gorgeous color, and the atmosphere of joy and joy is happily, and the ground color adopts the most popular yellow and rose, so that the color is rich and the style is gorgeous.
(2) The invention relates to a four-color weft yarn-dyed jacquard bedding fabric, belonging to a high-grade yarn-dyed fabric, which has high difficulty in designing and weaving technology, adopts a four-color weft yarn and one-color warp yarn interweaving method, and adopts a color display ratio to determine a warp and weft yarn float-sink design method to obtain the fabric with strong stereoscopic impression, clear cloth cover pattern and rich colors.
(3) The four-color weft yarn-dyed jacquard bedding fabric is subjected to tests on water shrinkage, breaking strength, pilling performance and the like, and the test result meets the standard and is as follows:
| main indexes of finished fabric | Results |
| Content of Formaldehyde | ≤75mg/kg |
| pH value | 6.6 |
| Decomposable carcinogenic aromatic amine dye | Not detected out |
| Peculiar smell | Is free of |
| Color fastness to water | 4-5 stages |
| Color fastness to soaping | 4-5 stages |
| Colour fastness to acid perspiration | 4-5 stages |
| Color fastness to alkali perspiration | 4-5 stages |
| Colour fastness to rubbing | 4-5 stages |
| Breaking strength | Warp direction: 1160, weft direction 1090 |
| Rate of change of dimension in washing | Warp and weft directions are all-4.0 |
(4) The price of the weft-backed pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric is 100 yuan/m, while the price of the four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric is only 108 yuan/m, the stereoscopic impression of the four-color weft pattern is strong, and the pattern is fine and vivid. Compared with weft double-colored woven fabric, the four-color weft-colored woven jacquard bedding fabric has the advantages of high price and grade, is more in line with the consumption psychology of consumers, is high in quality and low in price, increases market share for products of enterprises, develops the silk large-jacquard home textile fabric, can meet the requirements of people on the quality and grade of the home textile fabric, can improve the product structure of the company, improves market competitiveness, brings better social benefits and enterprise economic benefits, and calculates the cost as follows:
according to calculation, the selling price of the four-color weft pure cotton jacquard home textile finished fabric is 108.00 yuan/m, 3 kilometers are produced, 324 ten thousand yuan of annual selling income can be realized, and 55.08 ten thousand yuan of profit and tax can be realized.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a flower pattern of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a basic structure of the design of the texturing process of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a diagram of the pattern hierarchy and organization of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a partial grain diagram of the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a composite texture corresponding to a single color of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a composite texture corresponding to two adjacent colors of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is a composite texture of the present invention corresponding to two alternate colors;
FIG. 8 is a drawing of a pattern card of the present invention;
FIG. 9 is a card drawing of the present invention;
FIG. 10 is a process flow of the production method of the four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further described with reference to specific examples to enable those skilled in the art to better understand the present invention and to practice the same, but the examples are not intended to limit the present invention.
The invention provides a four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric, which has the gray fabric specification: 106 "JCF 100S/2 mercerization x JCF80S/2 mercerization 200 x 180, finished product specification: 106 "JCF 100S/2 mercerization x JCF80S/2 mercerization x 203 183.
The production method of the four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric has the process flow as shown in the attached figure 10. In this embodiment, the warp and weft processing steps, weaving, inspecting, trimming, dyeing and finishing, are performed by using the prior art, and are not described herein again, specifically describing the pattern steps.
(1) Design flower type
The design belongs to a realistic grain design. The flower and bird painting is designed to take flowers and birds as subject matters to express an vigorous natural beautiful scene, and in the picture, each flower is flourishing and bright in cluster, bright in color and joyful and hot in style. The bottom color adopts the most popular yellow and rose colors at present, has rich colors and gorgeous style, and is shown in figure 1. The hierarchy division of the graph is a flower layer, a leaf layer and a ground layer in sequence from the upper layer to the lower layer, in consideration of detail expression, the flower layer can be divided into 6 layers, the leaf layer can be divided into 3 layers, the ground layer is 1 layer, and Cuilus in the pattern can comprehensively adopt 9 hierarchy expression methods of the flower layer and the leaf layer, so that the pattern at least needs 5 yarn colors, namely warp yarn rose, weft yarn red, weft yarn green, weft yarn yellow and weft yarn white.
(2) Design of fabric specifications
In order to show the layering and texture of the pattern, the warp and weft yarns adopt mercerized plied yarns, in order to express the fineness of the pattern, the warp yarns adopt JCF100/2 mercerized yarns, and the weft yarns adopt JCF80/2 mercerized yarns. The weft density of four-color weft is designed to be 180, so the specification of the pattern is as follows: 106' JCF100S/2 mercerized JCF80S/2 mercerized 200 x 180 four-color weft-dyed jacquard.
(3) Design of texture process
According to the pattern style and the fabric specification, a reasonable basic structure is designed, 8 or 16 satins are used as the basic structure for carrying out the structure design, the combined structure shown in figure 2 is used as the basic structure for strengthening or changing, and finally an approved color effect is formed. Due to the adoption of a composite organization design method, the details of the pattern can be fully reflected, and the level transition is smooth.
The fabric structure of the project is weft quadruple, and the arrangement of composite weave is introduced according to the configuration relation of the surface weft weave structure and the inner weft weave structure of the weft heavy fabric by taking a partial drawing as an example. The ten-level composite organization chart of this pattern is shown in FIG. 3.
The application of the design method of determining the float and sink of warp and weft yarns by using the color display proportion in the invention is illustrated by the design example of the weaving process of the local pattern in FIG. 4.
Monochrome color development method: the flower with local pattern has 6 layers, the brightest and most prominent part is white, the structure is shown in figure 5, 16 pieces of 7 flying weft surface satins are adopted as weft yarns, the effect of white is shown by using single-color weft floating length, and the weft yarns of other three colors are hidden under the warp yarns.
Adjacent color development method: the light yellow color in the flower is shown by yellow weft yarns and a little white weft yarns, 16 7 flying weft surface satins are adopted for the 23 yellow color of the weft yarns, 16 flying weft surface satins are adopted for the white color of the weft yarns, 8 warp points are reinforced by 7 flying weft yarns, and one reinforcing point and the weft yarns form plain weave interweaving for fixing the floating length and preventing slippage, as shown in fig. 6.
Phase-contrast color development method: the lightest green color in the leaf layer is commonly shown by the floating length of green weft yarns and white weft yarns which are alternately arranged, 16 pieces of 7 flying-weft surface satins are adopted as the weft yarns, 6 warp points are strengthened by the weft yarns, 6 strengthening points of the structure are concentrated, and the strengthening points can be slightly dispersed as shown in fig. 7.
The above three complex tissues represent respectively: the corresponding organization and color matching representation method adopted by a single color, two adjacent colors and two alternate colors.
(4) Arrangement of artistic conception
The design of the artistic designer is to design the length and width of the flower pattern, and the analysis shows that the width of the flower pattern is 64cm, and the number of the tattooing needles required by the width is 5039 needles, namely, the number of the longitudinal lattices 5039 needles. The number of each tissue cycle was 16 and 8, and the corrected pattern width was 64.01cm and the number of longitudinal grids was 5040 cm. Similarly, the length of the analysis pattern is about 72cm, the length of the corrected pattern is 72.24cm, and the number of transverse grids is 5120.
(5) Sample card design
The jacquard fabric is woven on a rapier ALPHA type 5376 needle electronic jacquard machine, the jacquard needle has 16 rows and 388 rows in total, and the number of the jacquard needles to be used is 5040 needles; the side needle 168 is used as a needle, and the shuttle box needle is used as an 8-needle. The pattern card is shown in fig. 8.
(6) Generating a pattern
And (3) entering a texture generation function of the texture CAD system, and automatically forming a texture after clicking 'generate texture', as shown in figure 9.
The above-mentioned embodiments are merely preferred embodiments for fully illustrating the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. The equivalent substitution or change made by the technical personnel in the technical field on the basis of the invention is all within the protection scope of the invention. The protection scope of the invention is subject to the claims.
Claims (4)
1. A production method of a four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric is characterized by comprising the following process flows:
a warp yarn treatment step: unpacking, inspecting, dyeing and pulp-linking the raw materials;
weft yarn treatment: unpacking, inspecting and dyeing the raw materials;
pattern forming: designing a pattern, and laying tissues to generate a pattern plate;
finally, the fabric is formed by weaving, checking and finishing, dyeing and finishing;
the designed flower type takes flowers and birds as subject materials, the flowers are a flower layer, a leaf layer and a ground layer from the upper layer to the lower layer in sequence, and the bird pattern at least comprises 5 yarn colors;
the flower layer is divided into 6 layers, the leaf layer is divided into 3 layers, and the ground layer is 1 layer; the bird in the bird pattern is Cuiguan, the bird pattern color is warp yarn rose red, and the weft yarn color comprises red, green, yellow and white;
the tissue laying comprises fabric specification design, texture process design, artistic designing and sample card design;
the weaving process design is designed by taking 8 and 16 satins as basic tissues, finally, the formed flower has 6 layers, the brightest and most prominent flower is white, 16 7 flying weft surface satins are adopted as weft yarns, the white effect is displayed by utilizing single-color weft floating length, the weft yarns of other three colors are hidden under the warp yarns, the light yellow color in the flower is displayed by yellow weft yarns and a little white weft yarns, and the lightest green color in the leaf layer is displayed by the floating lengths of the green weft yarns and the white weft yarns which are arranged alternately.
2. The method for producing a four-color weft-pure-cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein the jacquard design pattern width is 64.01cm, the number of vertical grids is 5040, the length of the pattern is 72.24cm, and the number of horizontal grids is 5120.
3. The production method of the four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein the sample card is designed with 5040 needles according to the number of the tattooing needles; a side needle 168 needle, shuttle box needle 8 needle design.
4. The production method of the four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the warp yarn raw material and the weft yarn raw material both adopt 100% long stapled cotton compact spinning folded yarn.
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| CN201810012382.8A CN108130648B (en) | 2018-01-05 | 2018-01-05 | Four-color weft pure cotton yarn-dyed jacquard fabric and production method thereof |
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| CN108130648B true CN108130648B (en) | 2020-10-16 |
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| CN105386191A (en) * | 2015-11-27 | 2016-03-09 | 浙江理工大学 | Method for producing variable loop fabric by using fixed jacquard mounting process |
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| JP2016223020A (en) * | 2015-05-27 | 2016-12-28 | 東洋紡Ｓｔｃ株式会社 | Air permeable fabric |
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| CN107385630A (en) * | 2017-07-02 | 2017-11-24 | 江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司 | The dyeing and finishing method of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer |
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- 2018-01-05 CN CN201810012382.8A patent/CN108130648B/en active Active
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP5823555B2 (en) * | 2014-04-02 | 2015-11-25 | 株式会社ミナ | Upholstery fabric |
| JP2016223020A (en) * | 2015-05-27 | 2016-12-28 | 東洋紡Ｓｔｃ株式会社 | Air permeable fabric |
| CN105386191A (en) * | 2015-11-27 | 2016-03-09 | 浙江理工大学 | Method for producing variable loop fabric by using fixed jacquard mounting process |
| CN105908325A (en) * | 2016-06-16 | 2016-08-31 | 江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司 | Compact spinning milk/pearl/tencel shirt fabric and production method thereof |
| CN107151855A (en) * | 2017-07-02 | 2017-09-12 | 江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司 | The method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer |
| CN107385630A (en) * | 2017-07-02 | 2017-11-24 | 江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司 | The dyeing and finishing method of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer |
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