CN112891256A

CN112891256A - Concentrated soluble matrix and preparation method and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN112891256A
Application number: CN202110105952.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 孙怀庆; 孙云起; 胡露; 聂艳峰; 郭朝万; 蒲艳
Original assignee: Guangdong Marubi Biological Technology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangdong Marubi Biological Technology Co Ltd
Priority date: 2021-01-26
Filing date: 2021-01-26
Publication date: 2021-06-04
Also published as: JP2022114422A; JP7152571B2

Abstract

The invention provides a concentrated and solubilized matrix and a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the concentrated and solubilized matrix comprises, by weight, 35-40 parts of hydrocarbon, 20-30 parts of vegetable fat and oil, 0.5-2 parts of isostearic acid, 3-7 parts of polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, 0.005-0.015 part of tocopherol, 85-10 parts of PEG-85, 20-20 parts of PEG-1215 and 0.3-0.7 part of ethanol. The concentrated and soluble matrix provided by the invention has high universality, and the prepared cosmetic has good skin moistening effect and good stability, and improves the efficiency of formula design and mass production.

Description

Concentrated soluble matrix and preparation method and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a concentrated and soluble matrix as well as a preparation method and application thereof, in particular to a concentrated and soluble matrix for moistening skin as well as a preparation method and application thereof.

Background

Generally, cosmetics are developed by determining their respective formulations and manufacturing methods according to product plans, and selecting mass production facilities and manufacturing standards based thereon. Currently, the cosmetics industry is roughly divided into two categories. One is a washing and caring cosmetic (shampoo, bath lotion, etc.) produced in large quantity in small quantity, and the other is a cosmetic (skin care product, color cosmetic, etc.) produced in small quantity in large quantity in multiple quantities. Unlike the production of a plurality of products in a small amount, the development of the formula and the preparation method is generally carried out on the premise of considering the production of full-automatic equipment in the case of the production of a small amount of products, the products produced in a small amount of a plurality of products are generally in a high price range, and because the product appeal has diversity, the design formula can be formed only after the selection of concept components and the diversity of a matrix formula are considered in the development process, and then the selection of equipment and the like are considered, so that the development time is relatively long. In addition, since the types of products are many and the dosage forms are different, the equipment and manufacturing time required for mass production are also increased. Therefore, the matrix formula with high universality suitable for common dosage forms (lotion, emulsion and the like) is independently developed and then diluted for use, so that the efficiency of formula design and mass production is improved.

CN107375145B discloses a cosmetic matrix, a preparation method and application thereof, eye cream and a preparation method thereof, relating to the technical field of cosmetics. The cosmetic matrix is mainly prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 10-20% of tea extract-coated boswellia serrata extract, 5-10% of citrus peel extract, 10-20% of date seed, 55-10% of acetyl tetrapeptide, 3-6% of a mixture of wild soybean protein, hydrolyzed rice protein and superoxide dismutase, 3-6% of polygonum cuspidatum root extract, 1-3% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 1-2% of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and the balance of water. The invention solves the technical problems of poor effects of removing dark eye circles and improving skin brightness of the existing eye cosmetics.

CN106726669A discloses an anti-aging cosmetic matrix containing sea cucumber polypeptide and a preparation method thereof. The sea cucumber polypeptide is obtained by hydrolyzing collagenase, papain, alkaline protease and the like. The average molecular weight is less than 5000 Da. The skin care matrix comprises 40-50% of sea cucumber polypeptide hydrolysate, 5-15% of ganoderan, 5-15% of ginseng root extract and 20-50% of water. The skin care matrix of the invention can effectively improve the proliferation activity of skin cells and relieve the symptoms of skin aging.

At present, the problem of long development time of cosmetics due to diversity of product appeal is solved. Therefore, how to provide a cosmetic base with high versatility and improved efficiency of formulation design and mass production is a problem to be solved.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a concentrated and soluble matrix and a preparation method and application thereof, in particular to a concentrated and soluble matrix for moistening skin and a preparation method and application thereof. The concentrated and soluble matrix provided by the invention has high universality, and the prepared cosmetic has good skin moistening effect and good stability, and improves the efficiency of formula design and mass production.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

in a first aspect, the present invention provides a concentrated solubilized matrix comprising, by weight, 35 to 40 parts of a hydrocarbon, 20 to 30 parts of a vegetable fat or oil, 0.5 to 2 parts of isostearic acid, 3 to 7 parts of polyglycerin-2 diisostearate, 0.005 to 0.015 part of tocopherol, 5 to 10 parts of PEG-8 (glyceryl isostearate), 15 to 20 parts of PEG-12 (laurate), and 0.3 to 0.7 part of ethanol.

Wherein the hydrocarbon may be 35 parts, 36 parts, 37 parts, 38 parts, 39 parts, 40 parts, etc., the vegetable oil and fat may be 20 parts, 21 parts, 22 parts, 23 parts, 24 parts, 25 parts, 26 parts, 27 parts, 28 parts, 29 parts, 30 parts, etc., the isostearic acid may be 0.5 parts, 1 part, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, etc., the polyglycerin-2 diisostearate may be 3 parts, 4 parts, 5 parts, 6 parts, 7 parts, etc., the tocopherol may be 0.005 parts, 0.006 parts, 0.007 parts, 0.008 parts, 0.009 parts, 0.01 parts, 0.011 parts, 0.012 parts, 0.013 parts, 0.014 parts, 0.015 parts, etc., the PEG-8 parts may be 5 parts, 6 parts, 7 parts, 8 parts, 9 parts, or 10 parts, etc., the PEG-12 parts may be 15 parts, 16 parts, 17 parts, 19 parts, 0.013 parts, 0.015 parts, 0.20 parts, 0.15 parts, 3 parts, 0.15 parts, 0.7 parts, 3 parts, 0.015, 0.7 parts, 0.15 parts, 0.7 parts, 3 parts, 0.20 parts, 3 parts, but not limited to, the above-listed numerical values, and other numerical values not listed in the above numerical range are also applicable.

The specific components and the proportion of the concentrated and soluble matrix have high universality, and the efficiency of formula design and mass production is improved; the skin moistening effect of the cosmetics prepared by the concentrated and soluble matrix is obviously improved by compounding hydrocarbon and vegetable oil and compounding polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, PEG-8 and PEG-12; meanwhile, the concentrated and soluble matrix is prepared before the cosmetics are prepared, partial cosmetic raw materials are mixed in advance, and the stability of the prepared cosmetics is improved.

The vegetable oil ester is fatty fat extracted from plant seeds, pulp and other parts, is a natural high molecular compound compounded by fatty acid and glycerol, is widely distributed in nature, and mainly has the effect of moistening skin.

Polyglycerol-2 diisostearate is a high-grade oil having lipophilic nonionic surfactant characteristics, has an emulsifying effect, and is generally used as an emulsifier.

PEG-8 has strong emulsifying effect and good stability, can reduce water surface tension, has moistening, softening and emulsifying effects, and can prevent skin aging and maintain health state.

PEG-12 has excellent emulsifying, dispersing, solubilizing and lubricating capabilities, and is a nonionic surfactant.

Preferably, the concentrated and soluble matrix comprises, by weight, 37-39 parts of hydrocarbon, 23-27 parts of vegetable fat and oil, 1-1.5 parts of isostearic acid, 4-6 parts of polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, 0.005-0.015 part of tocopherol, 86-8 parts of PEG-86, 7-19 parts of PEG-1217 and 0.4-0.6 part of ethanol.

Preferably, the concentrated solubilized matrix further comprises water.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon compound includes any one or a combination of at least two of squalane, isododecane, isohexadecane, or dioctyl ether, such as squalane and isododecane, isododecane and isohexadecane, or squalane and dioctyl ether, but not limited to the above-listed combinations, and other combinations not listed within the above-mentioned combinations are also applicable.

Preferably, the vegetable oil and fat includes any one or a combination of at least two of jojoba seed oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, rice bran oil, grape seed oil, macadamia nut seed oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sunflower seed oil, or rice germ oil, such as a combination of jojoba seed oil and wheat germ oil, a combination of corn oil and avocado oil, or a combination of rice bran oil and grape seed oil, and the like, but is not limited to the above-listed combinations, and other combinations not listed within the above-mentioned combination range are also applicable.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for the preparation of a concentrated solubilized matrix as described above, comprising the steps of:

(1) mixing and heating hydrocarbon, vegetable oil ester, isostearic acid, polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, tocopherol, PEG-8 and PEG-12 to obtain a mixture A;

(2) mixing ethanol with the mixture A obtained in step (1) to obtain the concentrated solubilized matrix.

The preparation method has simple operation steps, and can quickly and conveniently prepare the concentrated and solubilized matrix.

Preferably, the heating in step (1) is carried out to a temperature of 38-42 ℃, for example 38 ℃, 39 ℃, 40 ℃ or 42 ℃, etc., but not limited to the above-listed values, and other values not listed in the above-mentioned range of values are equally applicable.

Preferably, the step (2) of mixing ethanol with the mixture A obtained in the step (1) further comprises mixing ethanol with water to obtain a mixture B.

As a preferred technical scheme of the invention, the preparation method comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing hydrocarbon, vegetable oil ester, isostearic acid, polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, tocopherol, PEG-8 and PEG-12, and heating to 38-42 deg.C to obtain mixture A; mixing ethanol and water to obtain a mixture B;

(2) mixing the mixture A obtained in the step (1) with the mixture B to obtain the concentrated solubilized matrix.

In a third aspect, the present invention also provides the use of a concentrated solubilized matrix as described above for the preparation of a cosmetic product.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

the invention prepares a concentrated soluble matrix by newly selecting specific components and proportioning, has high universality, and improves the efficiency of formula design and mass production; the skin moistening effect of the cosmetics prepared by the concentrated and soluble matrix is obviously improved by compounding hydrocarbon and vegetable oil and compounding polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, PEG-8 and PEG-12; meanwhile, the concentrated and soluble matrix is prepared before the cosmetics are prepared, partial cosmetic raw materials are mixed in advance, and the stability of the prepared cosmetics is improved.

Detailed Description

To further illustrate the technical means and effects of the present invention, the following further describes the technical solution of the present invention with reference to the preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the scope of the embodiments.

In the following examples and comparative examples, polyglycerol-2 diisostearate was obtained from Nippon Kazao Kagaku K.K., model IS-202P.

In the following application examples and comparative application examples, the source of the concentrated lotion base refers to the patent application entitled "a concentrated lotion base and preparation method and application thereof", filed by the applicant on the same day as the present patent application, and the composition and the proportion thereof are as follows:

example 1

This example provides a concentrated solubilized matrix comprising the following components in parts by weight:

components	Weight percent (%)
		Dioctyl ether	38.79
Jojoba seed oil	24
		Isostearic acid	1.2
Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate	5
		Tocopherol	0.01
PEG-8	7
		PEG-12	18
Ethanol	0.5
		Water (W)	Balance of

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing hydrocarbon, vegetable oil ester, isostearic acid, polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, tocopherol, PEG-8 and PEG-12, and heating to 40 deg.C to obtain mixture A; mixing ethanol and water to obtain a mixture B;

Example 2

components	Weight percent (%)
		Squalane	37
Wheat germ oil	27
		Isostearic acid	1
Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate	6
		Tocopherol	0.005
PEG-8	8
		PEG-12	17
Ethanol	0.6
		Water (W)	Balance of

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing hydrocarbon, vegetable oil ester, isostearic acid, polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, tocopherol, PEG-8 and PEG-12, and heating to 38 deg.C to obtain mixture A; mixing ethanol and water to obtain a mixture B;

Example 3

components	Weight percent (%)
		Isododecane	39
Macadamia nut seed oil	23
		Isostearic acid	1.5
Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate	4
		Tocopherol	0.015
PEG-8	6
		PEG-12	19
Ethanol	0.4
		Water (W)	Balance of

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing hydrocarbon, vegetable oil ester, isostearic acid, polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, tocopherol, PEG-8 and PEG-12, and heating to 42 deg.C to obtain mixture A; mixing ethanol and water to obtain a mixture B;

Example 4

the preparation method is the same as example 1.

Example 5

components	Weight percent (%)
		Dioctyl ether	40
Jojoba seed oil	20
		Isostearic acid	2
Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate	3
		Tocopherol	0.015
PEG-8	5
		PEG-12	20
Ethanol	0.3
		Water (W)	Balance of

The preparation method is the same as example 1.

Comparative example 1

The comparative example provides a concentrated solubilized matrix comprising the following components in parts by weight:

components	Weight percent (%)
		Dioctyl ether	45
Jojoba seed oil	15
		Isostearic acid	2.5
Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate	1
		Tocopherol	0.02
PEG-8	1
		PEG-12	23
Ethanol	0.1
		Water (W)	Balance of

The preparation method is the same as example 1.

Comparative example 2

components	Weight percent (%)
		Dioctyl ether	30
Jojoba seed oil	35
		Isostearic acid	0.1
Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate	10
		Tocopherol	0.001
PEG-8	13
		PEG-12	10
Ethanol	1
		Water (W)	Balance of

The preparation method is the same as example 1.

Comparative example 3

This comparative example provides a concentrated solubilized matrix having a composition identical to that of example 1 except that it does not contain dioctyl ether and a reduced portion is distributed to jojoba seed oil.

The preparation process is referred to example 1.

Comparative example 4

This comparative example provides a concentrated solubilized matrix having a composition identical to example 1 except that jojoba seed oil is not included and a reduced portion is assigned to the dioctyl ether.

The preparation process is referred to example 1.

Comparative example 5

This comparative example provides a concentrated solubilized matrix having a composition identical to that of example 1 except that it does not comprise polyglycerol-2 diisostearate and the reduced fraction is apportioned to PEG-8 and PEG-12.

The preparation process is referred to example 1.

Comparative example 6

This comparative example provides a concentrated solubilized matrix having a composition consistent with example 1 except that no PEG-8 is included, and the reduced fraction is apportioned to polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate and PEG-12.

The preparation process is referred to example 1.

Comparative example 7

This comparative example provides a concentrated solubilized matrix having a composition identical to that of example 1 except that it does not comprise PEG-12, and the reduced fraction is apportioned to PEG-8 and polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate.

The preparation process is referred to example 1.

Application example 1

The application example provides toning lotion which comprises the following components in parts by weight:

components	Weight percent (%)
		Concentrated lotion base	20
Example 1 provides a concentrated solubilized matrix	10
		Water (W)	Balance of

The preparation method comprises the following steps: the lotion was obtained by mixing water, the concentrated lotion base, and the concentrated solubilized base provided in example 1.

Application examples 2 to 5

Application examples 2 to 5 each provide a cosmetic liquid having the same composition as in application example 1 except that the concentrated solubilized matrix provided in example 1 was replaced with the concentrated solubilized matrices provided in examples 2 to 5, respectively.

The preparation method refers to application example 1.

Comparative application examples 1 to 7

Comparative application examples 1 to 7 each provide a cosmetic liquid having a composition in accordance with application example 1 except that the concentrated solubilized matrix provided in example 1 was replaced with the concentrated solubilized matrix provided in comparative examples 1 to 7, respectively.

The preparation method refers to application example 1.

Comparative application example 8

The comparative application example provides toning lotion which comprises the following components in parts by weight:

components	Weight percent (%)
		Concentrated lotion base	20
Dioctyl ether	3.879
		Jojoba seed oil	2.4
Isostearic acid	1.2
		Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate	0.5
Tocopherol	0.01
		PEG-8	0.7
PEG-12	0.18
		Ethanol	0.05
Water (W)	Balance of

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing and heating dioctyl ether, jojoba seed oil, isostearic acid, polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, tocopherol, PEG-8 and PEG-12 to obtain a mixture A; mixing ethanol and water to obtain a mixture B;

(2) mixing the mixture A obtained in the step (1) with the mixture B to obtain a mixture C;

(3) mixing the mixture C obtained in the step (2), the concentrated lotion base and the rest water to obtain the lotion.

And (3) testing the skin moistening effect:

1. test sample and object

(1) Test samples: lotions according to application examples 1 to 5 and lotions provided in comparative application examples 1 to 7 were used.

(2) And (4) selecting the standard by people: selecting 40 cases of Chinese adult female with normal skin, wherein the female is 20-45 years old, and excluding patients with acute inflammation or other skin diseases on the skin, patients with allergic constitution or cosmetic allergy history, and patients in pregnancy or lactation.

(3) Testing parts: inside the arm.

2. Test environment

Constant temperature and humidity environment with uniform light, temperature: 22 ℃. + -. 1 ℃, humidity: 50% +/-5%. The subject was allowed to sit still for 20min in this environment before testing.

3. Test method

The test method is described in T/GDCA 1-2020 general evaluation of cosmetic sensory rules. 1g of a test sample is smeared in a circular area with the radius of 2cm at the inner side of an arm, indexes such as texture, brightness, spreadability, water-moist feeling, thickness, smoothness and absorbance of the test sample are respectively graded, and the recording results are as follows:

sample (I)	Texture of	Lightness of light	Spreadability	Feeling of moistening with water	Thickness and solidity	Feeling of softness and smoothness	Degree of absorption
								Application example 1	13.2	11.6	13.0	12.5	12.2	12.5	12.8
Application example 2	12.8	11.5	12.5	12.2	12.0	12.4	12.3
								Application example 3	12.5	11.6	12.4	12.2	12.0	12.3	12.4
Application example 4	12.0	11.2	12.2	12.0	11.9	11.8	11.6
								Application example 5	11.9	11.0	11.8	12.2	12.4	11.9	11.5
Comparative application example 1	10.6	10.7	11.2	11.5	11.8	10.9	11.2
								Comparative application example 2	10.9	10.5	11.5	11.6	10.8	10.5	11.0
Comparative application example 3	10.5	10.2	11.6	11.8	11.0	10.8	10.9
								Comparative application example 4	11.2	10.5	11.4	11.9	11.0	11.2	11.1
Comparative application example 5	10.8	10.6	10.9	11.3	10.8	11.0	10.6
								Comparative application example 6	11.5	10.5	11.0	11.8	11.2	11.6	11.0
Comparative application example 7	11.2	11.0	10.8	11.5	11.1	10.9	11.0

The data show that the cosmetics prepared by compounding the condensed and solubilized matrix with the hydrocarbon and the vegetable oil and by compounding the polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, the PEG-8 and the PEG-12 have remarkable skin moistening effect, and the skin moistening effect is further improved within the preferable range of the invention.

And (3) stability testing:

the lotion samples of application example 1 and comparative application example 8 were placed under the following conditions for 6 months, respectively, and changes in texture, color and fragrance of the product were observed and the results were recorded.

Condition 1 (heat resistance): 45 ℃ constant temperature incubator

Condition 2 (cold resistance): -18 ℃ refrigerator

Condition 3 (cycle): -18 ℃ -45 ℃ high and low temperature alternating incubator (7 day cycle)

Condition 4 (light): illumination/ultraviolet climate incubator

Application example 1 the stability test results are given in the following table:

comparative application example 8 the stability test results are given in the following table:

the above data show that the cosmetics made with the concentrated solubilized matrix provided by the present invention have higher stability than the cosmetics made with the starting materials.

The applicant states that the present invention is illustrated by the above examples of the concentrated solubilized matrix of the present invention and the preparation method and application thereof, but the present invention is not limited to the above examples, i.e., it does not mean that the present invention must be implemented by the above examples. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that any modification of the present invention, equivalent substitutions of the raw materials of the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., are within the scope and disclosure of the present invention.

The preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail, however, the present invention is not limited to the specific details of the above embodiments, and various simple modifications may be made to the technical solution of the present invention within the technical idea of the present invention, and these simple modifications are within the protective scope of the present invention.

It should be noted that the various technical features described in the above embodiments can be combined in any suitable manner without contradiction, and the invention is not described in any way for the possible combinations in order to avoid unnecessary repetition.

Claims

1. The concentrated and solubilized matrix is characterized by comprising, by weight, 35-40 parts of hydrocarbon, 20-30 parts of vegetable fat and oil, 0.5-2 parts of isostearic acid, 3-7 parts of polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, 0.005-0.015 part of tocopherol, 85-10 parts of PEG-85, 20-20 parts of PEG-1215 and 0.3-0.7 part of ethanol.

2. The concentrated solubilized matrix of claim 1, wherein the concentrated solubilized matrix comprises, in parts by weight, 37 to 39 parts of hydrocarbon, 23 to 27 parts of vegetable fat and oil, 1 to 1.5 parts of isostearic acid, 4 to 6 parts of polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, 0.005 to 0.015 part of tocopherol, 86 to 8 parts of PEG-86, 1217 to 19 parts of PEG-1217 to and 0.4 to 0.6 part of ethanol.

3. The concentrate-solubilized matrix of claim 1 or 2, further comprising water.

4. The concentrated solubilized matrix of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrocarbon comprises any one or a combination of at least two of squalane, isododecane, isohexadecane, or dioctyl ether.

5. The concentrated solubilized matrix of any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said vegetable oil or fat comprises any one or a combination of at least two of jojoba seed oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, rice bran oil, grape seed oil, macadamia nut oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sunflower seed oil, or rice germ oil.

6. A process for the preparation of a concentrated solubilized matrix according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

7. The process for the preparation of a concentrated solubilized matrix of claim 6, wherein the heating of step (1) is carried out at a temperature of 38 to 42 ℃.

8. The process for the preparation of a concentrated solubilized matrix according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the step (2) of mixing ethanol with the mixture A obtained in the step (1) further comprises mixing ethanol with water to obtain a mixture B.

9. Process for the preparation of a concentrated solubilized matrix according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

10. Use of a concentrated solubilized matrix according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for the preparation of a cosmetic product.