CN112244396A - 一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法 - Google Patents

一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法 Download PDF

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CN112244396A
CN112244396A CN202010997897.5A CN202010997897A CN112244396A CN 112244396 A CN112244396 A CN 112244396A CN 202010997897 A CN202010997897 A CN 202010997897A CN 112244396 A CN112244396 A CN 112244396A
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李孟
穆立东
陈雪波
李东
陈雪峰
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Shanghai Tianqiang Textile Co ltd
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Abstract

一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，在采用可升华黑色分散染料染色的衬布基布上涂覆黑色底浆，在所述底浆上喷撒聚酯热熔胶粉，加热至190～200℃使所述可升华黑色分散染料升华，将所述聚酯热熔胶粉染色成黑色。本发明采用普通的白色胶粉，依靠可升华黑色分散染料在高温下升华的特点，使其对热熔胶粉进行染色，比使用黑色热熔胶粉更容易操作，产品的胶点具有和深色面料颜色接近的颜色，在压烫到较薄的深色面料上时，可以有效隐藏胶点透过面料的现象，即使是服装洗后也不会出现胶点变白印透过面料的情况，而且色牢度也能达到标准要求。

Description

一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法
技术领域
本发明属于服装粘合衬生产技术领域，具体涉及一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法。
背景技术
随着服装面料的多样化以及人们对服装要求和欣赏水平的提高，多数的服装都有热熔粘合衬的使用，特别是一些深色轻薄男女装面料，也有压烫粘合衬的需求。但市场上普通的粘合衬的热熔胶粉多为白色胶粉，在粘合衬压烫使用过程中容易透过面料，造成面料正面看到胶点，特别是水洗之后，胶点更加明显，使得服装外观出现质量问题。市场上虽然有少量的使用黑色胶粉(胶粉的种类也很有限)涂层的黑点衬布，但生产过程中黑粉容易沾染设备管道，以至于做过黑粉之后没有办法再生产白色产品，如果设备专门做黑粉，又降低了设备的利用率。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，能够满足深色轻薄男女装面料的粘合，以克服现有技术中存在的使用黑胶粉涂层衬布沾染设备管道不易清理的问题。
本发明的目的是通过以下技术方案来实现的：
本发明的一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，在采用可升华黑色分散染料染色的衬布基布上涂覆黑色底浆，在所述底浆上喷撒聚酯热熔胶粉，加热至190～200℃使所述可升华黑色分散染料升华，将所述聚酯热熔胶粉染色成黑色。
所述可升华黑色分散染料是指在一定温度下(本发明采用的190～200℃)染料可以从固态变为气态的黑色分散染料；所述底浆为采用丙烯酸酯乳液、水和增稠剂调制成的粘接用浆液，固含量为25％～28％、黏度为14～15万cps。
进一步地，所述黑色底浆中也添加有所述的可升华黑色分散染料。
更具体地，本发明的一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
(1)将采用可升华黑色分散染料染色的衬布基布送入双点涂层机，采用圆网转移的方式，将底浆的点状浆点涂覆在所述衬布基布的表面；
(2)向所述衬布基布的表面上喷撒聚酯热熔胶粉(PES)，除去所述底浆浆点之外的多余胶粉；加热至180～190℃使所述底浆浆点干燥；
(3)继续将所述衬布基布加热至190～200℃，使所述可升华黑色分散染料升华后将胶粉染色成黑色；冷却、收卷，即可得到本发明的升华染色黑点粘合衬。
进一步地，本发明的一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，还包括所述衬布的生产过程；所述衬布的生产过程包括以下步骤：
(Ⅰ)基布进缸：把涤纶低弹丝机织布作为基布送入溢流染色机的染缸中进行精炼和水洗；
(Ⅱ)溢流染色：将所述基布按照设定的染色程序进行溢流染色，所用染料为可升华黑色分散染料；
(Ⅲ)热定型：将染色后的基布浸轧整理液后，再送入热定型设备的烘箱内，在130～180℃的温度下，使织物烘干、定型，即可得到采用可升华黑色分散染料染色的衬布；
所述步骤(Ⅰ)中，所述基布进入染缸时，染缸内的水温控制在85～90℃；所述精炼的精炼液包括：金属离子螯合剂0.1～0.5克/升、氢氧化钠2～10克/升、精炼剂1～3克/升，其余为水；所述金属离子螯合剂为丙烯酸-丙烯酸酯共聚物和钠盐的复配物，例如：浙江传化的TF-133F；所述精炼剂为阴离子表面活性剂复配物，例如：JPK-N；
所述步骤(Ⅲ)中，所述整理液为有机硅柔软剂10～20克/升、防静电剂0.5～1.5克/升、渗透剂0.1～0.3克/升、酸1克/升，其余为水；
所述热定型设备的烘箱分为8段，各段的温度为：一段130～140℃，二段140～150℃，三段160～170℃，四段170～180℃，五段170～180℃，六段170～180℃，七段170～180℃，八段170～180℃；所述热定型过程的车速为每分钟30～45米。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有如下优点：
本发明采用普通的白色胶粉，依靠可升华黑色分散染料在高温下升华的特点，使其对热熔胶粉进行染色，比使用黑色热熔胶粉更容易操作，无需黑胶专用机台，也不需要专门清理机器。本发明的产品升华染色黑点粘合衬的胶点具有和深色面料颜色接近的颜色，在压烫到较薄的深色面料上时，可以有效隐藏胶点透过面料的现象，即使是服装洗后也不会出现胶点变白印透过面料的情况，而且色牢度也能达到标准要求。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体的实施方式对本发明做进一步的说明，所述实施例仅用于说明本发明而不是对本发明的限制。
实施例1
一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，采用经纬纱20D/24f*20D/24f的1/1结构的涤纶低弹丝平纹机织布作为基布，其生产过程为：
1、基布进缸：把涤纶低弹丝机织布作为基布送入溢流染色机的染缸中，进布时染缸内先注入一定量的水，水温控制在85～90℃；进入染缸中的基布先经过精炼和水洗；精炼液中助剂的成分为金属离子螯合剂0.5克/升、氢氧化钠2克/升、精炼剂3克/升，其余为水；
2、溢流染色：将洗好的基布按照设定的染色程序进行溢流染色，所用染料为可升华黑色分散染料；所述可升华黑色分散染料是中低温分散染料EX-SF 300％；
3、热定型：在热定型设备的整理液槽内加入整理液，将染色后的基布浸轧整理液后，再进入热定型设备的烘箱内，热定型设备的烘箱分为8段，各段的温度为：一段130℃，二段150℃，三段160℃，四段170℃，五段180℃，六段180℃，七段180℃，八段170℃；基布在烘箱内烘干、定型，得到衬布；定型的温度不宜过高，以防止染料在定型阶段升华；热定型的车速为每分钟45米；所述整理液为有机硅柔软剂20克/升、防静电剂0.5克/升、酸1克/升，其余为水；
4、涂层：将所得衬布经过双点涂层机，车速为每分钟25米，利用圆网转移的方式(圆网目数32目，孔径0.12um)，衬布经过圆网和支撑底辊的间隙后，底浆浆料从圆网的网孔中被刮浆刀刮涂转移到衬布的表面上；衬布继续前进，在撒粉装置处，衬布表面上被均匀地喷撒一层聚酯(PES)热熔胶粉，胶粉粒径60～120um，然后通过吹吸系统吸除底浆点与底浆点之间的多余热熔胶粉，仅使粉状热熔胶均匀地分布在底浆点上；再将所述衬布送入采用红外加热的180℃烘箱中，使底浆干燥并固着于衬布表面；最后将衬布进入200℃的烘房中，高温有利于底浆中和布面上的分散染料升华，将热熔胶粉染色成黑色；冷却、收卷，得到克重为25g/m2的升华染色黑点粘合衬成品。
将得到的升华染色黑点粘合衬进行测试，采用粘合衬组合试样制作方法测试胶点透过面料的隐藏性能，采用粘合衬水洗后外观变化试验方法方法测试组合试样洗后胶点透过面料的隐藏性能，采用织物耐洗色牢度试验方法测试衬布及胶点的皂洗色牢度性能，采用织物耐摩擦色牢度试验方法测试衬布的耐摩擦色牢度性能，结果列于表1中。
表1升华染色黑点粘合衬的测试结果
Figure BDA0002693231410000051
从表1可以看出，升华染色黑点粘合衬在压烫到较薄的深色面料上时，可以有效隐藏胶点透过面料的现象，即使是服装洗后也不会出现胶点变白印透过面料的情况，而且色牢度也能达到标准要求。

Claims (10)

1.一种升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，在采用可升华黑色分散染料染色的衬布基布上涂覆黑色底浆，在所述底浆上喷撒聚酯热熔胶粉，加热至190～200℃使所述可升华黑色分散染料升华，将所述聚酯热熔胶粉染色成黑色。
2.根据权利要求1所述的升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，所述可升华黑色分散染料是指在190～200℃的温度下染料可以从固态变为气态的黑色分散染料；所述底浆为采用丙烯酸酯乳液、水和增稠剂按照质量比为100：（32～34）：（6～7）的比例调制成的粘接用浆液，固含量为25%～28%、黏度为14～15万cps。
3.根据权利要求1所述的升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，所述黑色底浆中也添加有所述的可升华黑色分散染料。
4.根据权利要求1所述的升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
（1）将采用可升华黑色分散染料染色的衬布基布送入双点涂层机，采用圆网转移的方式，将底浆的点状浆点涂覆在所述衬布基布的表面；
（2）向所述衬布基布的表面上喷撒聚酯热熔胶粉（PES），除去所述底浆浆点之外的多余胶粉；加热至180～190℃使所述底浆浆点干燥；
（3）继续将所述衬布基布加热至190～200℃，使所述可升华黑色分散染料升华后将胶粉染色成黑色；冷却、收卷，即可得到本发明的升华染色黑点粘合衬。
5.根据权利要求4所述的升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，还包括所述衬布的生产过程；所述衬布的生产过程包括以下步骤：
（Ⅰ）基布进缸：把涤纶低弹丝机织布作为基布送入溢流染色机的染缸中进行精炼和水洗；
（Ⅱ）溢流染色：将所述基布按照设定的染色程序进行溢流染色，所用染料为可升华黑色分散染料；
（Ⅲ）热定型：将染色后的基布浸轧整理液后，再送入热定型设备的烘箱内，在130～180℃的温度下，使织物烘干、定型，即可得到采用可升华黑色分散染料染色的衬布。
6.根据权利要求5所述的升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，所述步骤（Ⅰ）中，所述基布进入染缸时，染缸内的水温控制在85～90℃。
7.根据权利要求5所述的升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，所述精炼的精炼液包括：金属离子螯合剂0.1～0.5克/升、氢氧化钠2～10克/升、精炼剂1～3克/升，其余为水。
8.根据权利要求7所述的升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，所述金属离子螯合剂为丙烯酸-丙烯酸酯共聚物和钠盐的复配物；所述精炼剂为阴离子表面活性剂复配物。
9.根据权利要求5所述的升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，所述步骤（Ⅲ）中，所述整理液为有机硅柔软剂10～20克/升、防静电剂0.5～1.5克/升、渗透剂0.1～0.3克/升、酸1克/升，其余为水。
10.根据权利要求5所述的升华染色黑点粘合衬的制造方法，其特征在于，所述热定型设备的烘箱分为8段，各段的温度为：一段130～140℃，二段140～150℃，三段160～170℃，四段170～180℃，五段170～180℃，六段170～180℃，七段170～180℃，八段170～180℃；所述热定型过程的车速为每分钟30～45米。
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