CN111096912B

CN111096912B - Bicontinuous phase type eye and lip makeup remover and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111096912B
Application number: CN202010094991.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 苏晋峰; 邓伟健; 林锦雄
Original assignee: Guangzhou Aibei Biological Technology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Aibei Biological Technology Co Ltd
Priority date: 2020-02-14
Filing date: 2020-02-14
Publication date: 2022-06-07
Anticipated expiration: 2040-02-14
Also published as: CN111096912A

Abstract

The invention discloses a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip makeup remover and a preparation method thereof, wherein the bicontinuous phase type eye and lip makeup remover comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 15-35% of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate, 5-15% of sorbitol polyether-30 tetraisostearate, 10-25% of an emollient and 10-35% of deionized water; wherein the mass ratio of the deionized water to the emollient is 0.5-2; the cleansing liquid has simple components and convenient preparation; the HLB value is adjusted to about 9 by adjusting the components of the emulsifier, so that the stable bicontinuous microemulsion can be formed, and the obtained makeup remover has the advantages of stability, good spreadability (low viscosity), transparent appearance and strong makeup dissolving capacity, and can simultaneously dissolve water-soluble pigments and oil-soluble pigments. In addition, disodium EDTA and natural humectant 1, 3-propylene glycol are added for synergistic preservation, so that the dosage of the preservative is reduced, the irritation is reduced to the minimum, and sensitive eye and lip skins are protected.

Description

Bicontinuous phase type eye and lip makeup remover and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, and relates to a makeup remover, in particular to a bicontinuous phase type eye-lip makeup remover and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Beauty is the nature of human beings, and as early as the primitive period, human beings begin to decorate themselves with special things to make themselves more beautiful. The makeup is a female beauty technology with a long history, and on one hand, the makeup can increase the beauty of the female and promote the self-confidence of the female; on the other hand, the social etiquette is also respected by others. Therefore, various cosmetics cannot be applied to the face every day, and if the makeup is not completely removed, the cosmetics remain on the face, so that pores are blocked, and serious skin problems are caused.

The skin is thoroughly cleaned and the makeup is thoroughly removed, which is absolutely the root of beauty, and eyes and lips are the most important parts in makeup and need to be thoroughly cleaned. The skin on the lips is inherently fragile and, in addition, is exposed to the environment, and therefore is vulnerable to environmental insults and becomes inert. Because sebaceous glands capable of secreting grease do not exist, lips lack a natural protective film and are easy to lose moisture; the skin of the eyes and the skin around the eyes are sensitive and delicate, the makeup of the eyes is generally thick, and the skin of the eyes can be damaged or aging can be accelerated due to poor makeup removal.

At present, the makeup removing products aiming at the skin of the eye and the lip in the market are few, the makeup removing force is strong, the general stimulation is too strong, and the makeup removing products are not suitable for the skin of the eye and the lip; mild products often have insufficient cleansing power and do not remove the makeup from the skin of the lips well; there are also some inconveniences in use, resulting in poor makeup removal. Therefore, there is a need to develop a makeup remover that is easy to use and can effectively remove the makeup from the skin of the eye and lips.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide the makeup remover which is convenient to use, suitable for eyes and lips and good in makeup removing effect aiming at the defects of the prior art.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that: a bicontinuous phase type cleansing fluid comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 15-35% of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate, 5-15% of sorbitol polyether-30 tetraisostearate, 10-25% of an emollient and 10-35% of deionized water; wherein the mass ratio of the deionized water to the emollient is 0.5-2. PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate has HLB of 8, and is a common mild makeup removing product emulsifier.

The HLB of the sorbierite polyether-30 tetraisostearate is 11.1, the sorbierite polyether-30 tetraisostearate is a mild emulsification solubilizer and can be used for removing makeup on eyes and reducing the overall irritation of the makeup removing liquid; the hydrophilic emulsifier has wide emulsification range and is suitable for the emulsification of nonpolar oil.

The HLB value is adjusted to about 9 by adjusting the emulsifier component, so that the stable bicontinuous micro-emulsion can be formed.

As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the emollient comprises at least one of ethylhexyl palmitate, isotridecanol isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, mineral oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene.

More preferably, the cleansing lotion comprises the following emollients in percentage by mass: 5-20% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 1-10% of isotridecanol isononanoate and 1-10% of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane.

The ethylhexyl palmitate is a high-purity higher fatty acid ester product, is mainly used as a cosmetic raw material, and is an excellent skin softening agent. Has stable property, and is not easy to oxidize or generate peculiar smell.

Isotridecanol isononanoate is a low-viscosity oil with low greasy feeling and very fresh and cool skin feeling. Has good silicone oil compatibility and pigment dispersibility, and is common oil in color cosmetics. The pigment residue in the skin can be removed better when the pigment is applied to a makeup removing product.

Cyclopenta dimethyl siloxane has low viscosity, good volatility, easy cleaning, and good skin care and moisture keeping effects.

As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the makeup remover further comprises the following surfactants in percentage by mass: 1-5% of coconut oil amide DEA.

The dosage of the cocamide DEA in the formula is low, the cocamide DEA mainly plays a role of foaming during washing, and the bicontinuous phase formed by the system cannot be obviously influenced.

As a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cleansing liquid further comprises the following humectants in percentage by mass: 1-10% of PEG/PPG/polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin and 5-20% of 1, 3-propylene glycol.

The PEG/PPG/polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin is a humectant soluble in water and oil, has excellent moisturizing effect, good skin softening property, enhanced permeability, non-sticky touch feeling, good skin affinity, high safety and low irritation; and the emulsion can be mutually dissolved with an oil phase or a water phase in any proportion to form a bicontinuous phase emulsification system through induction.

The 1, 3-propylene glycol is a natural humectant derived from corn, has low irritation, has no bitterness compared with other polyhydric alcohol humectants, and is suitable for lip products.

As a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cleansing liquid also comprises an antioxidant with the mass percentage of 0.01-0.1%; 0.2-1% of preservative by mass; 0.01-0.2% of chelating agent and the balance of deionized water.

As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the antioxidant is tocopherol.

The tocopherol oil-soluble natural antioxidant can avoid rancidity oxidation of grease, stabilize the grease and simultaneously has a good skin moistening effect.

As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerin.

Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerin mixture is a liquid cosmetic preservative available from sumei, germany under the trade name Euxyl PE 9010; has broad-spectrum balanced inhibiting effect on bacteria, yeast and mold.

As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA.

The disodium EDTA has the function of antisepsis and synergism by chelating mineral ions in water, thereby destroying the conditions required by the growth of microorganisms. Disodium EDTA and 1, 3-propylene glycol are compounded in the formula, so that the composition has a synergistic preservative effect, can reduce the dosage of the preservative, minimizes the irritation of the preservative, and protects sensitive eye and lip skins.

As a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cleansing lotion comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10% ethylhexyl palmitate, 5% isotridecanol isononanoate, 5% cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, 30% PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, 10% sorbitan polyether-30 tetraisostearate, 2% cocamide DEA, 5% PEG/PPG/polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerol, 15%1, 3-propanediol, 0.02% tocopherol, 0.5% phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol mixture, 0.05% disodium EDTA, and the balance deionized water.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the cleansing lotion, which comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing deionized water and EDTA disodium, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixture A;

(2) mixing the rest raw materials, and stirring uniformly to obtain a mixture B;

(3) the mixture a was slowly added to the mixture B while stirring, and stirring was continued to a transparent and uniform state.

According to the cleansing liquid formula, the types and the addition amounts of the emulsifier, the grease and the humectant are screened, other polyols are not adopted as the humectant, the bitter taste is reduced, and the cleansing liquid formula is more suitable for lip products.

The bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing lotion disclosed by the invention is simple in component and convenient to prepare; the HLB value is adjusted to about 9 by adjusting the components of the emulsifier, so that the stable bicontinuous microemulsion can be formed; because the water phase and the oil phase both have lower surface tension, the obtained makeup remover has the advantages of stability, good spreadability (low viscosity), transparent appearance and strong makeup dissolving capacity, and can simultaneously dissolve water-soluble pigments and oil-soluble pigments. In addition, disodium EDTA and natural humectant 1, 3-propylene glycol are added for synergistic preservation, so that the dosage of the preservative is reduced, the irritation is reduced to the minimum, and sensitive eye and lip skins are protected.

Detailed Description

To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples.

Example 1

The invention relates to an embodiment of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid, which consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 10% ethylhexyl palmitate, 5% isotridecanol isononanoate, 5% cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, 30% PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, 10% sorbitan polyether-30 tetraisostearate, 2% cocamide DEA, 5% PEG/PPG/polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerol, 15%1, 3-propanediol, 0.02% tocopherol, 0.5% phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol mixture, 0.05% disodium EDTA, and the balance deionized water.

The preparation method of the cleansing lotion comprises the following steps:

Example 2

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerin with the mass percentage of 0.2%, and deionized water is used for complementing the balance.

Example 3

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerin with the mass percentage of 1%, and deionized water is used for complementing the balance.

Example 4

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains 5 mass percent of 1, 3-propylene glycol and deionized water for supplementing the balance.

Example 5

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains 20 mass percent of 1, 3-propylene glycol and deionized water for supplementing the balance.

Example 6

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains 0.01 percent of EDTA disodium by mass and deionized water for supplementing the balance.

Example 7

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains 0.1 mass percent of EDTA disodium and deionized water for supplementing the balance.

Example 8

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains 0.2 mass percent of EDTA disodium and deionized water for supplementing the balance.

Example 9

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains 15 mass percent of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate and deionized water for supplementing the balance.

Example 10

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains 35% of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate by mass percentage, and deionized water is used for complementing the balance.

Example 11

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains 5% of sorbitol polyether-30 tetraisostearate by mass and deionized water for supplementing the balance.

Example 12

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover contains 15 mass percent of sorbitol polyether-30 tetraisostearate, and deionized water for supplementing the balance.

Example 13

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% ethylhexyl palmitate, 10% isotridecanol isononanoate, 10% cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, 18% PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate, and deionized water to make up the balance.

Example 14

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 20% ethylhexyl palmitate, 1% isotridecanol isononanoate, 1% cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, and deionized water to make up the balance.

Example 15

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 26% PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, 5% cocamide DEA, 10% PEG/PPG/polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin, 0.01% tocopherol, and deionized water to make up the balance.

Example 16

An example of a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except that the contents of the following components are changed; the makeup remover comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1% of cocamide DEA, 1% of PEG/PPG/polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin, 0.1% of tocopherol and deionized water to make up the balance.

Synergistic preservative effect of mono, 1, 3-propanediol, disodium EDTA and a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin

The samples of examples 1-16 were tested for antimicrobial activity and the comparative examples were set as follows: comparative example 1 contains no phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerin mixture, and the rest is the same as example 1; comparative example 2 contains no 1, 3-propanediol and is otherwise the same as example 1; comparative example 3 contains no disodium EDTA and is otherwise the same as in example 1.

The test method comprises the following steps: three strains, Escherichia coli NBRC 3972 (Escherichia coli), Pseudomonas aeruginosa NBRC 13275 (Pseudomonas aeruginosa) and Staphylococcus aureus NBRC 13276 (Staphylococcus aureus), were respectively planted in the bacterial culture medium and cultured at 32 ℃ for 18-24 hours. Preparing culture medium containing sample to be tested for three different bacteria, adding corresponding bacteria liquid respectively to make the number of bacteria in each sample 10^5～6And (4) performing sequencing culture at 32 ℃ for 18-24 hours, and observing the turbidity degree of the culture medium to obtain the bacteriostatic ability of each test product, wherein the results are shown in table 1.

TABLE 1 test results of examples and comparative examples

Note: "-" represents completely clear, "+" represents slightly cloudy (translucent), "+" represents severely cloudy.

According to the embodiments 1-12, the better the antiseptic effect is with the content increase of the mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerin, EDTA disodium or 1, 3-propylene glycol; when the mixture of the disodium EDTA, the 1, 3-propylene glycol, the phenoxyethanol and the ethylhexyl glycerin has a synergistic preservative effect, the dosage of the mixture of the phenoxyethanol and the ethylhexyl glycerin can be reduced by adding 0.05 percent of the disodium EDTA and 15 percent of the 1, 3-propylene glycol.

Second, screening of oil phase raw materials

The cleansing liquid samples were prepared according to the following table components.

Table 2 shows the mass percentage of each component in the cleansing liquid

The preparation method of the cleansing lotion comprises the following steps:

(3) the mixture A is slowly added to the mixture B while stirring, and stirring is continued until a uniform state is obtained.

The same amount of lipstick, eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara and foundation liquid of the same type were coated on the same area of artificial leather, respectively, after standing for 5min, the test cotton ball was soaked with 1mL of the above makeup remover sample, and the artificial leather coated with the color makeup product was wiped off (load 200 g, repeat 10 times). The makeup removal of each product for each test solution was recorded and scored (0-20 points, higher score indicates stronger makeup removal). The results are shown in Table 3.

TABLE 3 cosmetic removal test results for each sample

The test result shows that the ethylhexyl palmitate has better makeup removing capability on lipstick, eye shadow and eyeliner; isotridecanol isononanoate has good makeup removing capability on lipstick, eye shadow and mascara, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane has good makeup removing capability on foundation liquid, but the formula system has weak compatibility on cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (silicon oil) and needs to be compounded with other carbon chains for solubilization. In the formula, ethylhexyl palmitate, isotridecanol isononanoate and cyclopenta dimethyl silicone polymer are compounded to achieve the best makeup removing effect.

Third, stability test

The stability tests were performed on examples 1 to 16 and examples 24, 25 and 26, wherein the components of examples 24 to 26 are shown in the following table (the preparation method is the same as example 1).

Table 4 shows the mass percentage of each component in the cleansing liquid

And (3) appearance judgment: the solution was visually inspected for clarity (clear, translucent, cloudy).

Stability (heat, cold, centrifuge test) test: the test is carried out according to the physicochemical index detection standard of the makeup remover (type II) in GB/T35914 & 2018 makeup remover oil (liquid, milk, paste and cream) GBT 35914-2018.

The test results are given in table 5 below.

Table 5 stability test results

From the table, the cleansing liquid provided by the embodiments of the invention has good stability, and can effectively dissolve water-soluble and oil-soluble pigments, so that the cleansing liquid provided by the invention has good cleaning effect on different cosmetics.

Further, the stability of the product of the invention at 48 ℃ and-18 ℃ was further tested, and the results are given in the following table.

TABLE 6 stability of the products of the invention at 48 ℃ and-18 ℃

	Heat resistance test (48 ℃ C.)	Cold resistance test (-18 ℃ C.)
			Example 1	Without change	Without change
Example 2	Without change	Without change
			Example 3	Without change	Without change
Example 4	Without change	Without change
			Example 5	Without change	Without change
Example 6	Without change	Without change
			Example 7	Without change	Without change
Example 8	Without change	Without change
			Example 9	Layering	Semi-transparent
Example 10	Semi-transparent	Semi-transparent
			Example 11	Layering	Semi-transparent
Example 12	Without change	Without change
			Example 13	Layering	Without change
Example 14	Without change	Without change
			Example 15	Semi-transparent	Without change
Example 16	Semi-transparent	Without change
			Example 24	Semi-transparent	Without change
Example 25	Without change	Without change
			Example 26	Semi-transparent	Without change

From Table 6, it can be seen that the product of the invention also maintains better stability in hotter or colder environments.

Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims

1. A bicontinuous phase type eye and lip makeup remover is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 15-35% of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, 5-15% of sorbitol polyether-30 tetraisostearate, 10-25% of an emollient, 10-35% of deionized water, 0.2-1% of a preservative, 0.01-0.2% of a chelating agent and 5-20% of 1, 3-propylene glycol; wherein the mass ratio of the deionized water to the emollient is 0.5-2; the makeup remover comprises the following emollients in percentage by mass: 5-20% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 1-10% of isotridecanol isononanoate and 1-10% of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; the preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerin; the chelating agent is disodium EDTA.

2. The cleansing liquid according to claim 1, further comprising the following surfactants in percentage by mass: 1-5% of cocamide DEA.

3. The cleansing liquid according to claim 1, further comprising a humectant in the following mass percent: 1-10% PEG/PPG/polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerol.

4. The cleansing liquid according to claim 1, further comprising an antioxidant in an amount of 0.01 to 0.1% by mass.

5. The cleansing liquid of claim 4, wherein the antioxidant is tocopherol.

6. The cleansing liquid according to claim 1, which consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 10% ethylhexyl palmitate, 5% isotridecanol isononanoate, 5% cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, 30% PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, 10% sorbitan polyether-30 tetraisostearate, 2% cocamide DEA, 5% PEG/PPG/polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerol, 15%1, 3-propanediol, 0.02% tocopherol, 0.5% phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol mixture, 0.05% disodium EDTA, and the balance deionized water.

7. The method for preparing the cleansing liquid according to claim 6, comprising the steps of: