CN112826762B - Bicontinuous microemulsion composition and application thereof - Google Patents
Bicontinuous microemulsion composition and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/068—Microemulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
Abstract
The invention discloses a bicontinuous microemulsion composition, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The bicontinuous micro-emulsion composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 25-40 parts of emulsifier, 39-50 parts of emollient, 8-15 parts of humectant, 1.5-2.5 parts of chelating agent and 8-15 parts of water; the skin-moistening cream comprises an emulsifier, a humectant, a chelating agent and a skin-moistening agent, wherein the emulsifier is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, the emollient is at least one of isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, the humectant is propylene glycol, and the chelating agent is a compound of 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl hydroximic acid and 1, 3-propylene glycol.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a bicontinuous microemulsion composition and application thereof.
Background
According to statistics, with the continuous acceleration of urbanization process in recent years, the daily average working time of office workers is increasing, and the attention of consumers to the makeup retention of makeup products is becoming higher and higher. Therefore, consumer demands for cleansing power for make-up removal products are also increasing. However, the increase in surfactant causes increased skin irritation, and particularly, people with sensitive skin are prone to develop allergies or other skin problems.
The following problems commonly exist in the current commercially available makeup removing products: (1) the water preparation formulation: the makeup removing ability is weak, and the irritation is high; (2) oil formulation: sticky and greasy skin feel and difficult washing after use; (3) ordinary emulsion type (W/O or O/W): poor spreadability, difficult wetting of makeup removing cotton and slow speed of makeup dissolving.
At present, the types of makeup removing products in the market are mainly water type or all-oil type, but based on the principle of similarity and intermiscibility, the dissolving capacity of the makeup removing water type products to oil-soluble pigments is weak, and the dissolving capacity of the makeup removing oil/paste type products to water-soluble pigments is weak. Therefore, these makeup remover products have a large difference in cleaning ability for different kinds of makeup.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on the above, the invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provide a bicontinuous microemulsion composition with good spreadability, transparent appearance and strong makeup dissolving capacity.
In order to realize the purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: a bicontinuous micro-emulsion composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 25-40 parts of emulsifier, 39-50 parts of emollient, 8-15 parts of humectant, 1.5-2.5 parts of chelating agent and 8-15 parts of water; the skin-moistening cream comprises an emulsifier, a chelating agent and a humectant, wherein the emulsifier is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, the emollient is at least one of isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, the humectant is propylene glycol, and the chelating agent is a compound of 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl hydroximic acid and 1, 3-propylene glycol.
The method can form stable bicontinuous microemulsion by screening the emulsifier, the grease type and the addition proportion. The bicontinuous microemulsion composition prepared by the application has the advantages of good spreadability (low surface tension), transparent appearance, strong makeup dissolving capacity and the like because the water phase and the oil phase are external phases (continuous phases).
Preferably, the bicontinuous micro-emulsion composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 30 parts of emulsifier, 44 parts of emollient, 9 parts of humectant, 2 parts of chelating agent and 10 parts of water; wherein the chelating agent comprises 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl hydroximic acid and 1, 3-propanediol in the following weight ratio: 1, 2-hexanediol: caprylyl hydroximic acid: 1, 3-propanediol-30: 5: 65.
The emulsifier selected by the application is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, the makeup removing capability is strong, the irritation is relatively low, the HLB is approximately equal to 8, and the stable bicontinuous micro-emulsion composition can be formed by reasonable raw material types and proportion matching of a water phase and an oil phase. The emollient selected in the application is isopropyl myristate and ethyl palmitateAt least one of hexyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, and the selected emollient is low-molecular-weight grease with fresh skin feel, strong spreadability and high cost performance, and the grease has good compatibility with most pigments and good makeup dissolving capacity. The chelating agent selected by the application is a compound of 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl hydroximic acid and 1, 3-propylene glycol. Iron is a key element for microbial growth, and microbes release chelators to capture Fe from the environment 3+ And converting it to Fe 2+ . Octanoyl hydroximic acid P-Fe 3+ And Fe 2+ Has high-efficiency selective chelation. Especially for Fe 3+ The chelating stability constant of the iron-containing composite material is high, so that the microorganisms can be prevented from obtaining iron elements, and the growth of the microorganisms is limited in an iron ion limited environment.
Through a great deal of creative experimental research, the applicant finds that when the bicontinuous micro-emulsion composition provided by the application adopts the components and the parts by weight, the prepared bicontinuous micro-emulsion composition has the best effect.
In addition, the invention also provides the application of the bicontinuous micro-emulsion composition in cosmetics.
Further, the present invention provides a cosmetic of the bicontinuous microemulsion composition.
Preferably, the cosmetic is a makeup remover, and the makeup remover further comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-3 parts of olive fruit oil, 0.1-2 parts of jojoba seed oil, 0.1-2 parts of oat kernel oil, 0.1-2 parts of sunflower seed oil and 0.1-2 parts of shea butter.
Olive fruit oil is obtained by direct cold pressing of fresh olive fruits, and is known as "liquid gold", "vegetable oil queen", "mediterranean nectar" and the like in the west due to its excellent natural beauty efficacy. Contains vitamin A, B, D, E, K, minerals and high content of monounsaturated fatty acid, and has certain therapeutic effect on skin; has excellent moisture retention: can absorb external moisture and lock the moisture in the skin to form a breathable film to prevent moisture loss from the skin surface.
The jojoba seed oil has similar structure with sebum, has effects of moistening skin and hair, and is easy to be absorbed; after the hair-care mask is used, a breathable film is formed on skin or hair, so that water loss is reduced and pores are not blocked; after entering the intercellular substance, the lipid carrier of the skin-care cream helps to repair the intercellular substance and fixes water in the intercellular substance, so that the effects of reducing water loss and strengthening the skin are finally achieved; contains antioxidant components such as vitamin E, and can reduce free radical attack on skin and reduce wrinkle; the non-polar and antioxidant characteristics of the skin care product can keep the oil in a dissolved state, facilitate the oil to be discharged out of the skin surface, and reduce or remove blackheads.
The high content of linoleic acid in the oat kernel oil ensures that the oat kernel oil has UV protection, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties; can maintain the acid layer in the stratum corneum to form the natural antibacterial defense mechanism of the skin; high vitamin E content as a natural antioxidant to combat the signs of skin aging; avenamides have been shown to have antipruritic, anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects; clinical research results show that the oat kernel oil contains a small amount of ceramide which has the combined action with the oat amide generated by promoting oat lipid, so that the skin barrier function is effectively repaired; contains natural flavonoids, and has certain UV defense function.
The sunflower seed oil has activating effect on peroxidase-activated receptor, and has anti-inflammatory effect of promoting skin wound healing; can promote decomposition of fat cells, and has effect of reducing weight; has certain inhibition effect on tyrosinase and certain whitening effect.
The shea butter is derived from shea nuts, has weak hazelnut flavor, high safety to skin, rich vitamins, sterols, lecithin and the like, has good nutrition and osmosis effects, can fully nourish skin, makes the skin white, fine and glossy, and is suitable for dry, aged and problematic skin.
Preferably, the cosmetic also comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2 parts of olive fruit oil, 1 part of jojoba seed oil, 1 part of oat kernel oil, 0.5 part of sunflower seed oil and 0.5 part of shea butter.
In addition, the invention also provides a preparation method of the cosmetic, which comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing oleum Olivarum, jojoba seed oil, oat kernel oil, sunflower seed oil, shea butter oil, emulsifier and emollient uniformly, and recording as phase A;
(2) mixing humectant, chelating agent and water uniformly, and recording as phase B;
(3) and (3) pouring the phase B in the step (2) into the phase A, and uniformly stirring to obtain the cosmetic.
Preferably, in the step (2), the stirring speed is 30-40rpm, and the stirring time is 20-30 min.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) the structure of microemulsions can be classified into 3 types (as shown in figure 1) according to their microscopic morphology: oil-in-water type (W/O type, oil as continuous phase), water-in-oil type (O/W type, water as continuous phase) and bicontinuous type (BCME type, water and oil are continuous phases). The formula can form stable bicontinuous microemulsion through screening the types and the adding proportion of the emulsifier and the grease.
(2) The bicontinuous micro-emulsion prepared by the formula has the advantages of good spreadability (low surface tension), transparent appearance, strong makeup dissolving capacity (water-soluble and oil-soluble pigments can be dissolved simultaneously, as shown in figure 2) and the like because the water phase and the oil phase are both external phases (continuous phases).
(3) The formula adopts a preservative-free antibacterial system, and realizes the effects of mildness and low irritation while maintaining high makeup removing power through reasonable matching of an emulsifier and a skin conditioner (oat kernel oil), so that the skin care cream is more suitable for sensitive skin.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a structural diagram of a microemulsion of a makeup removing product;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the comparison of the cleansing power of the cleansing liquid prepared in example 1 with that of commercially available cleansing water and cleansing liquid;
wherein 1 is a water-soluble pigment dissolving diagram; 2 is the oil soluble pigment dissolving diagram.
Detailed Description
To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.
The present application sets forth examples 1-7, and the components and parts by weight of the cleansing liquid of specific examples 1-7 are selected as shown in table 1:
TABLE 1 selection of Components and parts by weight of specific examples 1-7
The preparation of the cleansing compositions of examples 1 to 7, after weighing the components according to Table 1, comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing olive fruit oil, jojoba seed oil, oat kernel oil, sunflower seed oil, shea butter oil, emulsifier and emollient, and recording as phase A;
(2) mixing humectant, chelating agent and water uniformly, and recording as phase B;
(3) and (3) pouring the phase B in the step (2) into the phase A, and uniformly stirring to obtain the makeup remover.
Meanwhile, the components and parts by weight of the cleansing liquid of comparative examples 1 to 10 are set in the application, the components and parts by weight of the cleansing liquid of specific comparative examples 1 to 9 are selected as shown in table 2, and the comparative example 10 is a commercially available makeup removing liquid of a certain brand.
Table 2 selection of components and parts by weight of make-up remover of specific comparative examples 1-9
The makeup remover of specific comparative examples 1 to 9 was prepared in exactly the same manner as in the examples after weighing the components as shown in Table 2.
Test examples Performance test
1. And (3) appearance judgment: visual inspection of solution clarity (clear, translucent, cloudy);
2. and (3) stability testing: the test is carried out according to the physicochemical index detection standard of the makeup remover (type II) in GB/T35914 & 2018 makeup remover oil (liquid, milk, paste and cream) GBT 35914-2018.
3. Testing the dissolving capacity; respectively adding a water-soluble pigment (CI 42090) and an oil-soluble pigment (CI 26100) into the solution to be detected, and observing whether the pigments can be completely and uniformly dissolved;
4. and (3) testing the makeup removing force: the same amount of lipstick, eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara and foundation liquid of the same type are respectively coated on the artificial leather with the same area, after standing for 5min, 1mL of solution to be tested is used for infiltrating a test cotton ball, and the artificial leather coated with the color cosmetic product is respectively wiped (the load is 200 g, and the process is repeated for 10 times). And (4) recording the makeup removal condition of each solution to be tested on each product, and scoring the makeup removal condition (0-5 points, wherein the higher the score is, the stronger the makeup removal capability is).
5. And (3) irritation test:
(1) the experimental principle is as follows: CAM is the middle chorioallantoic membrane of fertilized chick embryo of 10-14 days of incubation. According to the experiment, a certain amount of test substances are directly contacted with the CAM by utilizing the characteristics of completeness, clearness and transparency of the CAM vascular system, the CAM vascular injury is observed after a period of action, different vascular injury degrees are scored, and the more serious the vascular injury is, the larger the score is. The blood vessel distribution of the chorioallantoic membrane and the similarity between the environment and the conjunctiva of the human eye are used for simulating the stimulation change of the cosmetics;
(2) the test method comprises the following steps: SN/T2329-2009 cosmetic eye irritation/corrosiveness chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane test;
(3) and (4) testing standard: as shown in table 3:
TABLE 3 test standards
6. Testing corrosion protection challenge; the test was carried out according to the method of chapter 51-antimicrobial efficacy test (USP 51) of the national formulary of the United States Pharmacopoeia (USP).
The performance test results are shown in tables 4 and 5:
table 4 results of performance testing of examples
Table 5 results of performance testing of comparative examples
As can be seen from tables 4 and 5, the cleansing liquid of the present invention has good stability and can effectively dissolve water-soluble and oil-soluble pigments, which indicates that the cleansing liquid of the present invention has good cleansing effect for different cosmetics. Compared with the emulsion which cannot form a stable bicontinuous phase structure in the comparative example, the cleansing lotion disclosed by the embodiments of the invention has better cleaning effect on different color cosmetic products. According to the invention, by using the compounding of the specific chelating agent and the oat (AVENA SATIVA) kernel oil, the irritation of the product is reduced, so that compared with the currently commercially available mainstream makeup removing product and a comparative example, the makeup removing liquid disclosed by the embodiments of the invention has the characteristics of relatively low NC value, mildness and low irritation. According to the invention, the specific chelating agent is compounded with the oat (AVENA SATIVA) kernel oil to replace the traditional preservative, so that the bacteriostatic ability of the cleansing liquid disclosed by each embodiment can pass a preservative challenge test and simultaneously lower irritation is realized.
Meanwhile, the experimental research results of the comparative examples 1 to 6 also show that when the weight parts of the components are not in the preferable range of the invention, the obtained makeup remover has obvious differences from the indexes of the makeup remover obtained in the examples of the application. Comparative example 7 was a control with a conventional preservative, and the irritation was moderate and strong. Comparative example 8 contained no oat kernel oil and was more irritating. Comparative example 9 used another emulsifier, and the product irritation was severe irritation with irreversible damage. Comparative example 10 is a commercially available brand of make-up remover that does not form a bicontinuous phase structure.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.
Claims (5)
1. The cosmetic is characterized by being a makeup remover, wherein the makeup remover consists of the following components in parts by weight: 25-40 parts of emulsifier, 39-50 parts of emollient, 8-15 parts of humectant, 1.5-2.5 parts of chelating agent, 8-15 parts of water, 0.1-3 parts of olive fruit oil, 0.1-2 parts of jojoba seed oil, 0.1-2 parts of oat kernel oil, 0.1-2 parts of sunflower seed oil and 0.1-2 parts of shea butter;
the skin-moistening cream comprises an emulsifier, a chelating agent and a humectant, wherein the emulsifier is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, the emollient is at least one of isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, the humectant is propylene glycol, and the chelating agent is a compound of 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl hydroximic acid and 1, 3-propylene glycol.
2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein in the makeup remover, the weight part of the emulsifier is 30 parts, the weight part of the emollient is 44 parts, the weight part of the humectant is 9 parts, the weight part of the chelating agent is 2 parts, and the weight part of the water is 10 parts; wherein, the weight ratio of 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl hydroximic acid and 1, 3-propylene glycol in the chelating agent is: 1, 2-hexanediol: caprylyl hydroximic acid: 1, 3-propanediol =30:5: 65.
3. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the makeup remover comprises 2 parts by weight of olive fruit oil, 1 part by weight of jojoba seed oil, 1 part by weight of oat kernel oil, 0.5 part by weight of sunflower seed oil and 0.5 part by weight of shea butter.
4. A method for preparing the cosmetic according to claim 1, comprising the steps of:
(1) mixing oleum Olivarum, jojoba seed oil, oat kernel oil, sunflower seed oil, shea butter oil, emulsifier and emollient uniformly, and recording as phase A;
(2) mixing humectant, chelating agent and water uniformly, and recording as phase B;
(3) and (3) pouring the phase B in the step (2) into the phase A, and uniformly stirring to obtain the cosmetic.
5. The method for preparing a cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein in the step (2), the stirring rate is 30 to 40rpm and the stirring time is 20 to 30 min.
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Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2000256132A (en) * | 1999-03-04 | 2000-09-19 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Liquid crystal composition and cosmetic |
| CN111973490A (en) * | 2019-05-23 | 2020-11-24 | 美特瑞生物科技(上海)有限公司 | Skin care cosmetic with liquid crystal structure |
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| CN109662909A (en) * | 2019-01-28 | 2019-04-23 | 广州尊伊化妆品有限公司 | A kind of makeup removing oleogel essence dew and preparation method thereof with self-emulsifying moisturizing effect |
| CN110882171A (en) * | 2019-12-25 | 2020-03-17 | 广州蜜妆生物科技有限公司 | Micro-emulsified cleansing oil and preparation method thereof |
| CN111096912B (en) * | 2020-02-14 | 2022-06-07 | 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 | Bicontinuous phase type eye and lip makeup remover and preparation method thereof |
| CN111450003A (en) * | 2020-04-21 | 2020-07-28 | 圣迪斯哥(深圳)生物科技有限公司 | Anti-aging and beautifying nutrient containing golden fragrant willow extract, preparation method thereof, essence and extraction method of golden fragrant willow extract |
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Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2000256132A (en) * | 1999-03-04 | 2000-09-19 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Liquid crystal composition and cosmetic |
| CN111973490A (en) * | 2019-05-23 | 2020-11-24 | 美特瑞生物科技(上海)有限公司 | Skin care cosmetic with liquid crystal structure |
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