CN110381917A - 相容性溶质的用途 - Google Patents
相容性溶质的用途 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN110381917A CN110381917A CN201880014120.3A CN201880014120A CN110381917A CN 110381917 A CN110381917 A CN 110381917A CN 201880014120 A CN201880014120 A CN 201880014120A CN 110381917 A CN110381917 A CN 110381917A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- alkyl
- skin
- compatible solute
- compound
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 230000006315 carbonylation Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 37
- 238000005810 carbonylation reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 37
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- 230000001603 reducing effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 238000009825 accumulation Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 230000002401 inhibitory effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000011149 active material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 238000010612 desalination reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- -1 glycosyl glycerol Chemical compound 0.000 claims description 106
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 84
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 50
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 47
- 235000018102 proteins Nutrition 0.000 claims description 44
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 34
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 33
- WQXNXVUDBPYKBA-YFKPBYRVSA-N ectoine Chemical group CC1=[NH+][C@H](C([O-])=O)CCN1 WQXNXVUDBPYKBA-YFKPBYRVSA-N 0.000 claims description 30
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 28
- 238000001914 filtration Methods 0.000 claims description 25
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 17
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical group 0.000 claims description 15
- 229960003237 betaine Drugs 0.000 claims description 14
- KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycine betaine Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 claims description 12
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 10
- 235000021317 phosphate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 10
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 claims description 10
- 108010016626 Dipeptides Chemical group 0.000 claims description 8
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-RWOPYEJCSA-N beta-D-mannose Chemical group OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-RWOPYEJCSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 229960000367 inositol Drugs 0.000 claims description 8
- DDXCFDOPXBPUJC-MTXRGOKVSA-N 2-(beta-D-mannosyl)-D-glyceric acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](C(O)=O)O[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H]1O DDXCFDOPXBPUJC-MTXRGOKVSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- CDAISMWEOUEBRE-UHFFFAOYSA-N scyllo-inosotol Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)C1O CDAISMWEOUEBRE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- LDVVTQMJQSCDMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3-dihydroxypropan-2-yl formate Chemical compound OCC(CO)OC=O LDVVTQMJQSCDMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- ZDXPYRJPNDTMRX-VKHMYHEASA-N L-glutamine Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC(N)=O ZDXPYRJPNDTMRX-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000012752 auxiliary agent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- ZDXPYRJPNDTMRX-UHFFFAOYSA-N glutamine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCC(N)=O ZDXPYRJPNDTMRX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000000896 monocarboxylic acid group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N α-D-glucopyranosyl-α-D-glucopyranoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)O1 HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- NEOGGGHDLGYATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,6-dimethylimidazo[4,5-b]pyridin-2-amine Chemical compound CC1=CN=C2N=C(N)N(C)C2=C1 NEOGGGHDLGYATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- XLGVHAQDCFITCH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-dihydroxypropanamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C(O)CO XLGVHAQDCFITCH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glutamic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ONIBWKKTOPOVIA-BYPYZUCNSA-N L-Proline Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H]1CCCN1 ONIBWKKTOPOVIA-BYPYZUCNSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-VKHMYHEASA-N L-glutamic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ONIBWKKTOPOVIA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Proline Natural products OC(=O)C1CCCN1 ONIBWKKTOPOVIA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-WSWWMNSNSA-N Trehalose Natural products O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-WSWWMNSNSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-LIZSDCNHSA-N alpha,alpha-trehalose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-LIZSDCNHSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- PZJOIILIPTVGFU-UWTATZPHSA-N cyclic 2,3-bisphospho-D-glyceric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@H]1COP(O)(=O)OP(O)(=O)O1 PZJOIILIPTVGFU-UWTATZPHSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000013922 glutamic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004220 glutamic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000000311 mannosyl group Chemical group C1([C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O1)CO)* 0.000 claims description 4
- XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N taurine Chemical compound NCCS(O)(=O)=O XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- KIIBBJKLKFTNQO-WHFBIAKZSA-N 5-hydroxyectoine Chemical compound CC1=N[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)CN1 KIIBBJKLKFTNQO-WHFBIAKZSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- QNAYBMKLOCPYGJ-REOHCLBHSA-N L-alanine Chemical compound C[C@H](N)C(O)=O QNAYBMKLOCPYGJ-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000004279 alanine Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- AWUCVROLDVIAJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N alpha-glycerophosphate Natural products OCC(O)COP(O)(O)=O AWUCVROLDVIAJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000000118 dimethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 3
- FKRCODPIKNYEAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl propionate Chemical compound CCOC(=O)CC FKRCODPIKNYEAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229960002429 proline Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- GUYHPGUANSLONG-SNAWJCMRSA-N (E)-4-(trimethylammonio)but-2-enoate Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)C\C=C\C([O-])=O GUYHPGUANSLONG-SNAWJCMRSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- VEYYWZRYIYDQJM-ZETCQYMHSA-N N(2)-acetyl-L-lysine Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H](C([O-])=O)CCCC[NH3+] VEYYWZRYIYDQJM-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- MPNZKEGCSZGKMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N NCC(=O)O.[As] Chemical compound NCC(=O)O.[As] MPNZKEGCSZGKMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000002915 carbonyl group Chemical group [*:2]C([*:1])=O 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960004203 carnitine Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- OEYIOHPDSNJKLS-UHFFFAOYSA-N choline Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)CCO OEYIOHPDSNJKLS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960001231 choline Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- WXCQAWGXWVRCGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N choline sulfate Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)CCOS([O-])(=O)=O WXCQAWGXWVRCGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000000020 sulfo group Chemical group O=S(=O)([*])O[H] 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960003080 taurine Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- UYPYRKYUKCHHIB-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethylamine N-oxide Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)[O-] UYPYRKYUKCHHIB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- PHIQHXFUZVPYII-ZCFIWIBFSA-N (R)-carnitine Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)C[C@H](O)CC([O-])=O PHIQHXFUZVPYII-ZCFIWIBFSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 235000016068 Berberis vulgaris Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- 241000335053 Beta vulgaris Species 0.000 claims 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 abstract description 65
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 87
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 46
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 46
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 43
- 235000019441 ethanol Nutrition 0.000 description 29
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 28
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 27
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 26
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 26
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 26
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 24
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 description 24
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 23
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N anhydrous diethylene glycol Natural products OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 23
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 23
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 23
- 210000004027 cell Anatomy 0.000 description 22
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 22
- PNEYBMLMFCGWSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Alumina Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Al+3].[Al+3] PNEYBMLMFCGWSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 21
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 description 21
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 20
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 20
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 19
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 19
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 description 17
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 17
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 16
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 16
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 16
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 14
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
- ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phenol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC=C1 ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
- REFJWTPEDVJJIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Quercetin Chemical compound C=1C(O)=CC(O)=C(C(C=2O)=O)C=1OC=2C1=CC=C(O)C(O)=C1 REFJWTPEDVJJIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N papa-hydroxy-benzoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 13
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 13
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 12
- 239000000523 sample Substances 0.000 description 12
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 12
- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 239000005642 Oleic acid Substances 0.000 description 11
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N all-trans-retinol Chemical compound OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N 0.000 description 11
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- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 description 11
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 11
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 description 11
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- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N d-alpha-tocopherol Natural products OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 description 11
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 11
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 10
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical compound CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 229940049964 oleate Drugs 0.000 description 10
- UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzene Chemical compound C1=CC=CC=C1 UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
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- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 description 9
- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N salicylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
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- 235000015424 sodium Nutrition 0.000 description 9
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- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 8
- 235000015165 citric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 8
- 239000013256 coordination polymer Substances 0.000 description 8
- 238000005286 illumination Methods 0.000 description 8
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 8
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 8
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 8
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Chemical group 0.000 description 8
- 150000003722 vitamin derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 8
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 13-cis retinol Natural products OCC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 7
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- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical group CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
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- JZRWCGZRTZMZEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N thiamine Chemical compound CC1=C(CCO)SC=[N+]1CC1=CN=C(C)N=C1N JZRWCGZRTZMZEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- 206010049752 Peau d'orange Diseases 0.000 description 5
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- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 5
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- WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 125000005456 glyceride group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 150000001469 hydantoins Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]=O JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 235000014655 lactic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000004310 lactic acid Substances 0.000 description 5
- DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxybenzone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
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- 239000001717 vitis vinifera seed extract Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 229940032912 zephiran Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 239000011686 zinc sulphate Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
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Abstract
本发明涉及至少一种相容性溶质和/或其生理学上可接受的盐用于抵抗与年龄相关的皮肤颜色变化或用于抑制和/或减少蛋白质羰基化和/或用于抑制和/或减少羰基化蛋白质在角质层中的累积的用途。本发明还涉及包含至少一种相容性溶质和/或其生理学上可接受的盐和至少一种另外的皮肤毛孔淡化活性物质的制剂,以及用于制备这种制剂的方法。
Description
本发明涉及至少一种相容性溶质和/或其生理学上可接受的盐用于抵抗与年龄相关的皮肤颜色变化或用于抑制和/或减少蛋白质羰基化和/或用于抑制和/或减少羰基化蛋白质在角质层中的累积的用途。本发明还涉及包含至少一种相容性溶质和/或其生理学上可接受的盐和至少一种另外的皮肤毛孔淡化活性物质的制剂,以及用于制备这种制剂的方法。
皮肤颜色是决定我们对皮肤的审美感受的主要因素之一。众所周知,随着年龄的增长,皮肤颜色可能变为黄黑色并变得不均匀。已经提出了导致皮肤颜色变化的一些潜在原因。在这方面,氧化的蛋白质如晚期糖基化(advanced glycation)终产物和羰基化蛋白质(其是脂质过氧化的终产物)可能导致老年人皮肤颜色变为黄黑色(Ogura等人2011,Journal of Dermatological Science 64,45-52)。最近,发现皮肤毛孔的增大也可能与皮肤颜色的不均匀有关。皮肤的显微镜观察显示皮肤毛孔周围的黑暗,这与毛囊性栓不同。这种较深色的区域也可能导致皮肤颜色不均匀。据报道,皮肤毛孔周围的变黑不是由黑色素引起的,而是由于皮肤毛孔周围角质层中羰基化蛋白质的累积(Akane Sasaki,August2016,“The accumulation of carbonylated proteins causes darkness around skinpores”,The 17th Annual Meeting of the Society for Photoaging Research)。
因此,本发明的目的是提供抵抗与年龄相关的皮肤颜色变化过程的活性物质。
令人惊讶的是,现在发现相容性溶质能够解决这个问题。
用于各种化妆品和药物目的的相容性溶质的用途是已知的。
例如,WO 94/15923描述了(S)-1,4,5,6-四氢-2-甲基-4-嘧啶羧酸或(S,S)-1,4,5,6-四氢-5-羟基-2-甲基-4-嘧啶羧酸可用于制备化妆品组合物或药物,例如用于治疗皮肤病。
此外,DE4342560描述了依克多因(ectoin)和依克多因衍生物作为化妆品中的润肤剂的用途。这些产品适用于例如老化、干燥或受刺激的皮肤的护理。
此外,DE19933466描述了依克多因和衍生物,例如羟基依克多因,可用作化妆品和皮肤病学组合物中的自由基清除剂。该组合物可用于治疗和/或预防由氧化应激和炎症反应引起的皮肤老化。
例如,在WO 00/07558、WO 00/07559、WO 00/07560和US 7981899中描述了依克多因和依克多因衍生物在化妆品制剂中的进一步应用,例如,干燥和/和干裂(flaky)皮肤的护理和预防,保护人体皮肤避免干燥和/或高盐浓度,保护人体皮肤的细胞、蛋白质和/或生物膜,保护人体皮肤的微生物区系,稳定皮肤屏障,以及保护和稳定人皮肤细胞的核酸。
然而,迄今为止还不知道选自相容性溶质的化合物(例如式Ia和Ib的化合物,式Ia和Ib的化合物的生理学上可耐受的盐和式Ia和Ib的化合物的立体异构形式)有利地适用于抵抗与年龄相关的皮肤颜色变化并抑制和/或减少角质层中(特别是在皮肤毛孔周围)的蛋白质羰基化。
因此,在第一个实施方案中,本发明涉及至少一种相容性溶质和/或其生理学上可接受的盐用于抵抗与年龄相关的皮肤颜色变化的用途。
通常,这种与年龄相关的皮肤颜色变化是向淡黄色或较深的皮肤或皮肤区域的变化。
蛋白质羰基化发生在全身(包括皮肤),并且可以由反应性醛化合物触发。这可以是外源的反应性醛或内源性形成的醛,例如由多不饱和脂肪酸(其在体内普遍存在)的氧化降解产生。得到的醛是例如丙烯醛和4-羟基壬烯醛。这种醛可以例如在皮肤表面皮脂的降解中形成。因此,可以在角质层中(特别是在暴露于阳光的区域的上部)发现羰基化蛋白质。已知在真皮上层产生的羰基化蛋白质而非黑色素沉着主要导致与光老化相关的淡黄色皮肤颜色改变的发展(Ogura等人2011,Journal of Dermatological Science 64,45-52)。由于羰基化蛋白质倾向于在毛孔周围积聚的事实,皮肤颜色变为淡黄色或较深色的这种变化经常发生在毛孔周围(Akane Sasaki,August 2016,“The accumulation of carbonylatedproteins causes darkness around skin pores”,The 17th Annual Meeting of theSociety for Photoaging Research)。
在这方面,发现相容性溶质能够淡化皮肤毛孔。
在一个优选的实施方案中,它用于淡化皮肤毛孔和/或减少人体皮肤中黄色或深色皮肤毛孔的数量。
在另一个优选的实施方案中,它用于使皮肤颜色均匀和/或用于减少皮肤颜色的不均匀性。
皮肤毛孔是皮肤表面存在的小开口。一般来说,它们被认为会排出体内存在的有毒和废弃的物质。在这样的概念中,它们对应于汗腺器官的口。然而,术语毛孔也适用于皮肤表面的可见微形貌(microtopographic)特征,其对应于毛皮脂腺囊的扩大的开口。它们看起来像空的漏斗状结构,或者相反,作为对应于粉刺的角质化圆柱形塞子。
已知相容性溶质能够最小化由于热休克蛋白的形成和其他保护性质而在皮肤内产生的氧化应激。进一步发现,相容性溶质能够减少角质层内羰基化蛋白质的形成。
在另一个实施方案中,本发明因此涉及至少一种相容性溶质和/或其生理学上可接受的盐用于抑制和/或减少蛋白质羰基化和/或用于抑制和/或减少羰基化蛋白质在角质层中,特别是在皮肤毛孔周围的累积的用途。
术语“抑制和/或减少蛋白质羰基化”涉及基于根据本发明的特定化合物的作用的蛋白质羰基化活性的任何降低。术语“抑制和/或减少角质层中羰基化蛋白质的累积”涉及基于根据本发明的特定化合物的作用的羰基化蛋白质的的累积的任何减少。
角质层是表皮的最外层,由死细胞(角质细胞(corneocyte))组成。该层由15至20层没有细胞核和细胞器的扁平细胞组成。它们的细胞质显示出丝状角蛋白。这些角质细胞嵌入由神经酰胺、胆固醇和脂肪酸组成的脂质基质中。
角质层起到形成屏障的作用,以保护下面的组织免受感染、脱水、化学物质和机械应力的影响。脱屑是细胞从角质层表面脱落的过程,其平衡在基底层中形成的增殖性角质形成细胞。这些细胞在大约14天的旅程中通过表皮向表面迁移。
化合物的上述用途可以在体外或体内模型中进行。特定细胞对式(I)的化合物的处理的敏感性可通过体外测试确定。为了体外测试,可以使用来自活组织检查样品的经培养的细胞。所述用途特别地对患有年龄引起的皮肤颜色变化的人类物种的样品体外进行。
多种特定化合物的测试使得能够选择看起来最适合于处理的活性化合物。
如上定义的相容性溶质的用途通常是局部的,并且优选是非治疗性或美容用途。它优选是化妆品用途,特别优选非治疗性化妆品用途。
根据通用的定义,相容性溶质是来自极端嗜盐和耐盐的真细菌的应激保护物质,所述真细菌通过生物合成或有效的运输机制大量累积它们。这些渗透活性物质阻止液体流出进入介质(变干燥),并且它们的名字来源于它们不会损害细胞代谢的事实(即使在高细胞质浓度下),即与代谢相容(根据:E.A.Galinski,M.Stein,B.Amendt,M.KinderComp.Biochem.Physiol.,117(3)(1997)357-365)。
根据本发明优选的相容性溶质选自糖和多元醇以及氨基酸和氨基酸衍生物。
根据本发明,至少一种相容性溶质优选选自:海藻糖,甘油,糖基甘油,β-甘露糖基甘油酸酯(firoin),β-甘露糖基甘油酸酰胺(firoinA),二-myo-肌醇磷酸酯(di-myo-inositol phosphate)(DIP),环状2,3-二磷酸甘油酸酯(cDPG),1,1-二甘油磷酸酯(DGP),二甘露糖基二肌醇磷酸酯(DMIP),甜菜碱,甘氨酸甜菜碱,脯氨酸甜菜碱,谷氨酸甜菜碱,丙氨酸,脯氨酸,谷氨酰胺,N-乙酰基赖氨酸,谷氨酰胺1-酰胺,牛磺酸,胆碱,胆碱O-硫酸盐,肉碱,砷-甜菜碱,巴豆甜菜碱,二甲基磺基乙酸酯,二甲基磺基丙酸酯,高甜菜碱,三甲胺N-氧化物,和选自根据式Ia和Ib的化合物的化合物
和/或其生理学上可接受的盐和/或立体异构体,
其中,
R1是H或烷基,
R2是H、COOH、COO-烷基或CO-NH-R5,
R3是H或OH,
R4是H或OH,
n是1、2或3,
R5是H、烷基、氨基酸部分、二肽部分或三肽部分
烷基是具有1至4个C原子的烷基。
更优选地,所述至少一种相容性溶质选自:海藻糖,β-甘露糖基甘油酸酯(firoin),β-甘露糖基甘油酸酰胺(firoin A),二-myo-肌醇磷酸酯(DIP),环状2,3-二磷酸甘油酸酯(cDPG),1,1-二甘油磷酸酯(DGP),二甘露糖基二肌醇磷酸酯(DMIP),甜菜碱,和选自如上定义的式Ia和Ib的化合物的化合物。
在更优选的实施方案中,所述至少一种相容性溶质选自如上定义的式Ia和Ib的化合物。
为了本发明的目的,以上和以下的选自式Ia和Ib的化合物、式Ia和Ib的化合物的生理学上可耐受的盐、以及式Ia和Ib的化合物的立体异构形式的所有化合物被称为“依克多因或依克多因衍生物”。
依克多因和依克多因衍生物是低分子量的环状氨基酸衍生物,其可以从各种嗜盐微生物中分离或合成制备。依克多因和羟基依克多因都具有不与细胞代谢反应的优点。
选自式Ia和Ib的化合物、式Ia和Ib的化合物的生理学上可耐受的盐和式Ia和Ib的化合物的立体异构形式的化合物可以以光学异构体、非对映异构体、外消旋体、两性离子、阳离子或其混合物的形式存在于组合物中。在选自式Ia和Ib的化合物、式Ia和Ib的化合物的生理学上可耐受的盐和式Ia和Ib的化合物的立体异构形式的化合物中,优选其中R1是H或CH3、R2是H或COOH、R3和R4彼此独立地是H或OH并且n是2的化合物。
特别优选地,所述至少一种相容性溶质选自(S)-1,4,5,6-四氢-2-甲基-4-嘧啶羧酸(依克多因)和(S,S)-1,4,5,6-四氢-5-羟基-2-甲基-4-嘧啶羧酸(羟基依克多因)。
最优选的是,所述至少一种相容性溶质是(S)-1,4,5,6-四氢-2-甲基-4-嘧啶羧酸(依克多因)。
式Ia和Ib的化合物的基团R5下提到的氨基酸残基衍生自相应的氨基酸。术语“氨基酸”是指以下化合物的立体异构形式,例如D和L形式:丙氨酸,β-丙氨酸,精氨酸,天冬酰胺,天冬氨酸,半胱氨酸,谷氨酰胺,谷氨酸,甘氨酸,组氨酸,异亮氨酸,亮氨酸,赖氨酸,甲硫氨酸,苯丙氨酸,丝氨酸,苏氨酸,色氨酸,酪氨酸,缬氨酸,γ-氨基丁酸,Nε-乙酰基-赖氨酸,Nδ-乙酰基鸟氨酸,Nγ-乙酰基二氨基丁酸和Nα-乙酰基二氨基丁酸。L-氨基酸是优选的。下列氨基酸的残基是优选的:丙氨酸,β-丙氨酸,天冬酰胺,天冬氨酸,谷氨酰胺,谷氨酸,甘氨酸,丝氨酸,苏氨酸,缬氨酸,γ-氨基丁酸,Nε-乙酰基-赖氨酸,Nδ-乙酰基鸟氨酸,Nγ-乙酰基二氨基丁酸和Nα-乙酰基二氨基丁酸。
在式Ia和Ib的化合物的基团R5下提到的二肽和三肽基团就其化学性质而言是酰胺(acid amide),并且在水解时分解得到2或3个氨基酸。二肽和三肽基团中的氨基酸通过酰胺键彼此键合。优选的二肽和三肽基团由优选的氨基酸构成。
在式Ia和Ib的化合物中,基团R1、R2和R5下提到的烷基包括甲基CH3,乙基C2H5,丙基CH2CH2CH3和CH(CH3)2和丁基CH2CH2CH2CH3,H3CCHCH2CH3,CH2CH(CH3)2和C(CH3)3。优选的烷基是甲基。
式Ia和Ib的化合物的优选的生理学上可耐受的盐是,例如,碱金属、碱土金属或铵盐,如Na、K、Mg或Ca盐,和衍生自有机碱三乙胺或三(2-羟基乙基)胺的盐。式Ia和Ib的化合物的进一步优选的生理学上可耐受的盐通过与无机酸如盐酸、硫酸和磷酸,或与有机羧酸或磺酸如乙酸、柠檬酸、苯甲酸、马来酸、富马酸、酒石酸和对甲苯磺酸反应而产生。
其中碱性和酸性基团(例如羧基或氨基)以相同的数量存在的式Ia和Ib的化合物形成内盐。
式Ia和Ib的化合物的制备描述于文献(DE4342560)中。(S)-1,4,5,6-四氢-2-甲基-4-嘧啶羧酸或(S,S)-1,4,5,6-四氢-5-羟基-2-甲基-4-嘧啶羧酸也可通过微生物学方法获得(Severin等人,J.Gen.Microb.138(1992)1629-1638或EP1409707A)。
已知相容性溶质能够最小化由于热休克蛋白的形成和其他保护性质而在皮肤内引起的氧化应激。然而,未知的是并且在本发明中首先描述了的是相容性溶质还能够减少羰基化蛋白质的形成。由于羰基化蛋白质倾向于在皮肤毛孔周围累积并且是这些区域中皮肤颜色变为黄色/棕色的原因,因此羰基化蛋白质形成的减少导致更均匀的皮肤颜色和皮肤中更少的深色或黄色毛孔。甚至皮肤颜色也可以恢复。
出于本发明的目的,术语“试剂”、“组合物”或“配制剂”也与术语“制剂”同义使用。
这里的制剂通常是可以局部施用的制剂,例如化妆品或皮肤病学制剂或医药产品。在本发明的意义上“可以局部施用”是指制剂在外部和局部施用,即制剂必须适合于例如能够施用于皮肤。在这种情况下,制剂包含化妆品、药物或皮肤病学上合适的媒介物(vehicle),以及根据所需的性质特征,任选其他的合适成分。局部制剂优选用作化妆品或皮肤病学制剂,特别优选用作化妆品制剂。合适的媒介物和助剂或填充剂在以下部分中详细描述。
制剂可包括或包含上文和/或下文提到的必要或任选的组分、基本上由其组成或由其组成。可用于制剂中的所有化合物或组分是已知的和可商购的或可通过已知方法合成。在权利要求中公开了进一步优选的实施方案组合。
如上所述并且也如优选所述的相容性溶质在本发明的制剂中通常以0.001至50重量%(基于制剂的总重量)的量存在,优选0.01至10重量%,和特别优选0.1至10重量%,基于组合物整体计。所述化合物在组合物中的比例非常特别优选为0.1至5重量%,基于组合物整体计。本领域技术人员在根据制剂的预期效果适当地选择量时绝对没有困难。
除相容性溶质外,组合物还可包含其他化妆品、皮肤病学或药学活性成分。
在一个实施方案中,本发明涉及包含至少一种相容性溶质和/或其生理学上可接受的盐和至少一种另外的皮肤毛孔淡化活性物质的制剂。
如上所述定义至少一种相容性溶质的优选实施方案。在一个特别优选的实施方案中,制剂中的至少一种相容性溶质选自如上定义的式Ia和Ib的化合物。
另外的皮肤毛孔淡化活性物质是本领域技术人员已知的,并且可以例如选自α-羟基酸(AHA),例如柠檬酸、乳酸或苹果酸,以及水杨酸、维生素C和其衍生物和余甘子(emblica)。
所述另外的活性化合物优选选自UV过滤剂、毛孔细化剂、抗氧化剂、维生素、皮肤增亮(skin-lightening)活性化合物、抗衰老活性化合物、抗炎活性化合物、抗微生物活性化合物、用于改善皮肤水分含量的活性化合物(皮肤水分调节剂)、抗脂肪团活性化合物、抗皱活性化合物、去头屑活性化合物、抗痤疮活性化合物、除臭剂、颜料和自晒黑物质;特别优选选自UV过滤剂、毛孔细化剂、抗氧化剂、维生素、皮肤增亮活性化合物、自晒黑物质、抗衰老活性化合物和抗脂肪团活性化合物。
在一个优选的实施方案中,制剂还包含UV过滤剂。原则上,所有UV过滤剂都适合于在根据本发明的制剂中组合。特别优选已经证明其生理学上的可接受性的UV过滤剂。对于UVA和UVB过滤剂从专业文献中已知有许多已证实的物质。以下列表中显示的化合物仅应视为示例。当然也可以使用其他UV过滤剂。
优选的制剂可包括有机UV过滤剂,所谓的亲水或亲脂防晒过滤剂,其在UVA区域和/或UVB区域和/或IR和/或VIS区域(吸收剂)中有效。这些物质尤其可以选自二苯甲酰甲烷衍生物、对氨基苯甲酸衍生物、水杨酸衍生物、β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物、樟脑衍生物、三嗪衍生物、肉桂酸衍生物和聚合物过滤剂和硅酮过滤剂,其在申请WO 93/04665中进行了描述。有机过滤剂的其他实例在专利申请EP-A0 487 404中指出。所述UV过滤剂通常根据INCI命名法在下面命名。
特别适合的组合有:
二苯甲酰甲烷衍生物:4-异丙基-二苯甲酰基-甲烷和4,4'-甲氧基-叔丁基-二苯甲酰基甲烷描述于FR-A-2326405、FR-A-2440933和EP-A-0114607中。4,4'-甲氧基-叔丁基-二苯甲酰甲烷例如由Merck以“Eusolex 9020”的名称销售。
对氨基苯甲酸及其衍生物:PABA,乙基PABA,乙基二羟丙基PABA,乙基己基二甲基PABA,例如由ISP以名称“Escalol 507”、Glyceryl PABA、PEG-25PABA销售,例如由BASF以名称“UvinulP25”销售。
水杨酸盐/酯:由Merck以“Eusolex HMS”的名称销售的胡莫柳酯;水杨酸乙基己酯,例如由Symrise以“Neo Heliopan OS”的名称销售;二丙二醇水杨酸酯,例如由Scher以“Dipsal”的名称销售;TEA水杨酸盐/酯,例如由Symrise以“Neo Heliopan TS”的名称销售。
β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物:氰双苯丙烯酸辛酯,例如由Merck以“OCR”的名称销售;来自巴斯夫的“Uvinul N539”;依托立林(Etocrylene),例如由BASF以“Uvinul N35”的名称销售。
二苯甲酮衍生物:二苯甲酮-1,例如以“Uvinul 400”的名称销售;二苯甲酮-2,例如以“Uvinul D50”的名称销售;二苯甲酮-3或氧苯酮,例如以“Uvinul M40”的名称销售;二苯甲酮-4,例如以“UvinulMS40”的名称销售;二苯甲酮-9,例如由BASF以“Uvinul DS-49”的名称销售;二苯甲酮-5、二苯甲酮-6,例如由Norquay以“Helisorb11”的名称销售;二苯甲酮-8,例如由American Cyanamid以“Spectra-Sorb UV-24”的名称销售;二苯甲酮-12n-己基2-(4-二乙基氨基-2-羟基苯甲酰基)苯甲酸酯或2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮,由Merck,Darmstadt以4360的名称销售。
亚苄基樟脑衍生物:3-亚苄基樟脑,例如由Chimex以“MexorylSD”的名称销售;4-甲基亚苄基-樟脑,例如由Merck以“Eusolex 6300”的名称销售;亚苄基樟脑磺酸,例如由Chimex以“Mexoryl SL”的名称销售;樟脑苄烷铵甲基硫酸盐,例如由Chimex以“MexorylSO”的名称销售;对苯二亚甲基-二樟脑磺酸,例如由Chimex以“MexorylSX”的名称销售;由Chimex以“Mexoryl SW”的名称销售的聚丙烯酰胺甲基亚苄基樟脑。
苯基苯并咪唑衍生物:苯基苯并咪唑磺酸,例如由Merck以“Eusolex 232”的名称销售;苯基二苯并咪唑四磺酸二钠,例如由Symrise以“Neo Heliopan AP”的名称销售。
苯基苯并三唑衍生物:甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷,例如由Rhodia Chimie以“Silatrizole”的名称销售;固体形式的亚甲基双(苯并三唑基)四甲基丁基苯酚,例如由Fairmount Chemical以“MIXXIM BB/100”的名称销售,或以微粉化形式作为水分散体,例如由BASF以“TinosorbM”的名称销售。
三嗪衍生物:乙基己基三嗪酮,例如由BASF以“Uvinul T150”的名称销售;二乙基己基丁酰胺三嗪酮,例如由Sigma 3V以“UvasorbHEB”的名称销售;2,4,6-三-(二异丁基-4'-氨基亚苄基丙二酸酯)-s-三嗪或2,4,6-三(联苯基)-1,3,5-三嗪,由BASF作为TinosorbA2B销售;2,2’-[6-(4-甲氧基苯基)-1,3,5-三嗪-2,4-二基]双[5-(2-乙基己基)氧基]苯酚;由BASF作为Tinosorb S销售;N2,N4-双[4-[5-(1,1-二甲基丙基)-2-苯并噁唑基]苯基]-N6-(2-乙基己基)-1,3,5-三嗪-2,4,6-三胺,由Sigma3V作为Uvasorb K 2A销售,或三苯基三嗪,由BASF作为A2B销售。
邻氨基苯甲酸盐(Anthraniline)衍生物:邻氨基苯甲酸薄荷酯,例如由Symrise以“Neo Heliopan MA”的名称销售。
咪唑衍生物:乙基己基二甲氧基亚苄基二氧代咪唑啉丙酸酯。
亚苄基丙二酸酯衍生物:含有官能性亚苄基丙二酸酯基团的聚有机硅氧烷,例如聚硅氧烷-15,例如由Hoffmann LaRoche以“ParsolSLX”的名称销售。
4,4-二芳基丁二烯衍生物:1,1-二羧基(2,2'-二甲基丙基)-4,4-二苯基丁二烯。
苯并噁唑衍生物:2,4-双[5-(1-二甲基丙基)苯并噁唑-2-基(4-苯基)亚氨基]-6-(2-乙基己基)亚氨基-1,3,5-三嗪,例如由Sigma 3V以Uvasorb K2A的名称销售,以及包含该物质的混合物。
哌嗪衍生物,例如化合物
或以下结构的UV过滤剂
还可以使用基于聚硅氧烷共聚物的UV过滤剂,其具有根据下式的无规分布,其中,例如,a=1,2;b=58和c=2,8:
这个化合物列表代表了示例;当然也可以使用其他UV过滤剂。
合适的有机UV防护物质可以优选选自以下列表:水杨酸乙基己酯,苯基苯并咪唑磺酸,二苯甲酮-3,二苯甲酮-4,二苯甲酮-5,n-己基2-(4-二乙基氨基-2-羟基苯甲酰基)苯甲酸盐,4-甲基亚苄基樟脑,对苯二亚甲基二樟脑磺酸,苯基二苯并咪唑四磺酸二钠,亚甲基双(苯并三唑基)四甲基丁基苯酚,丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷,乙基己基三嗪酮,二乙基己基丁酰胺三嗪酮,甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷,聚硅氧烷-15,1,1-二羧基(2,2'-二甲基丙基)-4,4-二苯基丁二烯,2,4-双[5-1(二甲基丙基)苯并噁唑-2-基(4-苯基)亚氨基]-6-(2-乙基己基)亚氨基-1,3,5-三嗪及其混合物。
这些有机UV过滤剂通常以0.01至20重量%,优选1至10重量%的量掺入配制剂中。
制剂可包含其他无机UV过滤剂,即所谓的颗粒UV过滤剂。这些与颗粒UV过滤剂的组合既可以是粉末也可以是以下类型的分散体或糊剂。
这里优选的是来自以下的那些:二氧化钛,例如涂覆的二氧化钛(例如T-2000,T-AQUA,T-AVO,T-PRO,T-EASY),氧化锌(例如),氧化铁或氧化铈和/或氧化锆。
此外,与颜料二氧化钛或氧化锌的组合也是可能的,其中这些颜料的粒度大于或等于200nm,例如FG或FF-Pharma。
另外优选的可以是制剂包含已经通过常规方法进行后处理的无机UV过滤剂,例如在Cosmetics&Toiletries 1990,105,53中所述的。可以在这里选择一种或多种以下后处理组分:氨基酸,蜂蜡,脂肪酸,脂肪酸醇,阴离子表面活性剂,卵磷脂,磷脂,脂肪酸的钠、钾、锌、铁或铝盐,聚乙烯,硅酮,蛋白质(特别是胶原蛋白或弹性蛋白),烷醇胺,二氧化硅,氧化铝,其他金属氧化物,磷酸盐,如六偏磷酸钠,或甘油。
这里优选使用的颗粒UV过滤剂是:
-未处理的二氧化钛,例如来自Tayca的Microtita-nium Dioxide MT 500 B产品;来自Degussa的二氧化钛P25;
-经过后处理的微粉化二氧化钛,其使用氧化铝和二氧化硅后处理,例如来自Tayca的产品“Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA,或来自Uniqema的产品”Tioveil Fin”;
-经过后处理的微粉化二氧化钛,其使用氧化铝和/或硬脂酸铝/月桂酸铝后处理,例如来自Tayca的Micro-titanium Dioxide MT 100T;来自Merck的Eusolex T-2000;
-经过后处理的微粉化二氧化钛,其使用氧化铁和/或硬脂酸铁后处理,例如来自Tayca的产品“Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F”;
-经过后处理的微粉化二氧化钛,其使用二氧化硅、氧化铝和硅酮后处理,例如来自Tayca的产品“Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100SAS”;
-用六偏磷酸钠后处理的微粉化二氧化钛,例如来自Tayca的产品“MicrotitaniumDioxide MT 150W”。
用于组合的经处理的微粉化二氧化钛也可以用以下进行后处理:
-辛基三甲氧基硅烷,例如来自Degussa的产品Tego Sun T 805;
-二氧化硅;例如,来自DSM的产品Parsol T-X;
-氧化铝和硬脂酸;例如,来自Sachtleben的产品UV-Titan M160;
-铝和甘油;例如,来自Sachtleben的产品UV-Titan,
-铝和硅油,例如来自Sachtleben的产品UV-Titan M262;
-六偏磷酸钠和聚乙烯吡咯烷酮,
-聚二甲基硅氧烷,例如来自Cardre的产品70250 Cardre UFTiO2SI3“;
-聚二甲基氢硅氧烷,例如来自Color Techniques的产品Microtitanium DioxideUSP Grade Hydrophobic。
与以下产品的组合也可以是有利的:
-未经处理的氧化锌,例如来自BASF(Sunsmart)的产品Z-Cote,来自Elementis的Nanox;
-经后处理的氧化锌,例如以下产品:
·来自Toshibi的“Zinc Oxide CS-5”(用聚甲基氢硅氧烷后处理的ZnO);
来自Nanophase Technologies的Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN;
·来自Shin-Etsu的“SPD-Z1”(用硅酮接枝的丙烯酸类聚合物后处理的ZnO,分散在环二甲基硅氧烷中);
·来自ISP的“Escalol Z100”(氧化铝后处理的ZnO,分散在甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯/PVP-十六碳烯/聚甲基硅氧烷共聚物混合物中);
·来自Fuji Pigment的“Fuji ZNO-SMS-10”(用二氧化硅和聚甲基硅倍半氧烷后处理的ZnO);
·未经处理的氧化铈微颜料(micropigment),例如来自RhonePoulenc的名称为“Colloidal Cerium Oxide”;
·未经处理和/或经过后处理的氧化铁,来自Arnaud的名称为Nanogar。
举例来说,还可以使用经过和没有经过后处理的各种金属氧化物的混合物,例如二氧化钛和氧化铈,例如来自Ikeda的产品Sunveil A。此外,还可以使用氧化铝、二氧化硅和硅酮后处理的二氧化钛/氧化锌混合物的混合物,例如来自Sachtleben的产品UV-TitanM261。
这些无机UV过滤剂通常以0.1至25重量%,优选2至10重量%的量加入制剂中。
通过组合一种或多种具有UV过滤作用的所述化合物,可以优化针对UV辐射的有害影响的保护作用。
所有所述UV过滤剂也可以以胶囊形式使用。特别是,采用胶囊形式的有机UV过滤剂是有利的。根据本发明使用的制剂中的胶囊优选以确保包封的UV过滤剂以上述重量百分比存在于制剂中的量存在。
根据本发明,制剂可优选进一步包含毛孔细化剂。毛孔细化剂是例如视黄醇(维生素A),5,7-二羟基-2-甲基色酮(以商品名Luremine销售)、烟酰胺或异槲皮素。
在本发明的另一个优选实施方案中,所述制剂还包含至少一种皮肤增亮活性化合物(或同义的脱色活性化合物)或具有皮肤增亮活性的提取物。
皮肤增亮活性化合物原则上可以是本领域技术人员已知的所有活性化合物。适合于组合的是市售的黑素生成抑制剂,例如抗坏血酸及其衍生物,芦荟苦素,烟酰胺,余甘子,鞣花酸,甘草提取物,桑树提取物,曲酸,甘草提取物,噜忻喏(Rucinol),氢醌,壬二酸,熊果苷,抗坏血酸磷酸镁,乳酸,丁基苯基甲氧基苯基丙二醇(可从Merck以购买)等。具有皮肤增亮活性的化合物的优选实例是氢醌、烟酰胺、抗坏血酸及其生理上可接受的盐、曲酸,熊果苷、芦荟苦素、壬二酸、鞣花酸、乳酸、丁基苯基甲氧基苯基丙二醇或rucinol。具有皮肤增亮活性的提取物的优选实例是甘草提取物、桑树提取物或余甘子。
如上所述的制剂还可包含一种或多种自晒黑物质。这种类型的制剂通常具有对比度降低效果并且能够实现均匀的皮肤色调。本发明同样涉及如所述的相容性溶质与一种或多种自晒黑物质组合用于对比度降低和实现均匀皮肤色调的用途。因此,对比度降低剂是通过降低较强和较不强着色的皮肤区域之间的对比度来减少不均匀的皮肤着色的物质。这里通过不均匀的色素沉着和/或角质皮肤的不同分布可以产生这种不均匀的皮肤着色。不均匀的色素沉着在人群中绝不罕见,并且是基于黑素细胞产生的不同黑色素水平或皮肤中黑素细胞的不规则分布。
特别地通过其中进一步存在自晒黑物质的制剂可以实现对比度降低。这种自晒黑物质可以是基于美拉德反应或迈克尔加成与皮肤的氨基酸反应的自晒黑物质,或者可以是所谓的黑素生成促性物质或促沉着(propigmentation)物质,其促进皮肤的天然色素沉着。
优选的自晒黑物质是,例如:1,3-二羟基丙酮(DHA)和由其衍生的衍生物,甘油醛,羟甲基乙二醛,γ-二醛,赤藓酮糖,6-醛(aldo)-D-果糖,茚三酮,5-羟基-1,4-萘醌(胡桃醌)或2-羟基-1,4-萘醌(指甲草醌)或所述化合物的混合物。特别优选的是1,3-二羟基丙酮、赤藓酮糖及其混合物。
促沉着物质是本领域技术人员已知的。实例是甘草次酸(glycerrithinic acid),黑素细胞激活激素(α-MSH),肽类似物,胸苷二核苷酸,L-酪氨酸及其酯,双环单萜二醇(bicyclicmonoterpendiole)(描述于Brown等人,Photochemistry andPhotobiology B:Biology 63(2001)148-161)或7-酰氧基-色烯-4-酮衍生物(描述于WO2012/097857A1),特别是十六烷酸5-羟基-2-甲基-4-氧代-4H-色烯-7-基酯(可以BronzylTM购自Merck KGaA,Darmstadt,Germany)。
优选地,自晒黑物质在组合物中的量为0.01至20重量%,更优选为0.5至15重量%,最优选为1至8重量%,与制剂的总重量相关。
在所述制剂中,还可以存在有色颜料,其中颜料的层结构不受限制。在使用0.5至5重量%时,有色颜料应优选为皮肤颜色或褐色。相应颜料的选择对于本领域技术人员来说是熟悉的。
在本发明的另一个优选实施方案中,该制剂包含一种或多种抗氧化剂和/或一种或多种维生素。抗氧化剂的使用能够通常实现针对氧化应激或自由基的作用的保护作用,本领域技术人员在选择适当快速或以延迟时间起作用的抗氧化剂方面绝对没有困难。从专题文献中已知有许多已证实可用作抗氧化剂的物质,例如氨基酸(例如甘氨酸,组氨酸,酪氨酸,色氨酸)及其衍生物,咪唑(例如尿刊酸)及其衍生物,肽,例如D,L-肌肽,D-肌肽,L-肌肽及其衍生物(例如鹅肌肽),类胡萝卜素,胡萝卜素(例如,α-胡萝卜素,β-胡萝卜素,番茄红素)和其衍生物,绿原酸及其衍生物,硫辛酸及其衍生物(例如二氢硫辛酸),葡糖硫金,丙基硫氧嘧啶和其他硫醇(例如硫氧还蛋白,谷胱甘肽,半胱氨酸,胱氨酸,胱胺和其糖基、N-乙酰基、甲基、乙基、丙基、戊基、丁基和月桂基、棕榈酰基、油烯基、γ-亚油基、胆固醇基和甘油基酯)及其盐,二月桂基硫代二丙酸酯,二硬脂基硫代二丙酸酯,硫代二丙酸及其衍生物(例如酯、醚、肽、脂质、核苷酸、核苷和盐)和亚砜亚胺化合物(例如丁硫氨酸亚砜亚胺,高半胱氨酸亚砜亚胺(homocystasulfoximine),丁硫氨酸砜,五、六-和七硫氨酸亚砜亚胺)(非常低耐受剂量(例如,pmol至μmol/kg)),以及(金属)螯合剂,(例如,α-羟基脂肪酸,棕榈酸,植酸,乳铁蛋白)),α-羟基酸(例如,柠檬酸,乳酸,苹果酸),腐殖酸,胆汁酸,胆汁提取物,胆红素,胆绿素,EDTA,EGTA,乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸五钠及其衍生物,不饱和脂肪酸及其衍生物,维生素C和衍生物(例如,抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯,抗坏血酸磷酸镁,抗坏血酸乙酸酯),生育酚和衍生物(例如维生素E乙酸酯),维生素A和衍生物(例如,维生素A棕榈酸酯),和安息香树脂的松柏醇苯甲酸酯,芸香亭酸及其衍生物,α-糖基芦丁,阿魏酸,亚糠基葡糖醇,肌肽,丁基羟基甲苯,丁基羟基茴香醚,去甲二氢愈创木酸,三羟基苯丁酮,槲皮素,尿酸及其衍生物,甘露糖和其衍生物,锌及其衍生物(例如ZnO,ZnSO4),硒及其衍生物(例如硒代甲硫氨酸),茋及其衍生物(例如二苯乙烯氧化物,反式二苯乙烯氧化物)。其他合适的抗氧化剂也描述于WO 2006/111233和WO 2006/111234中。
合适的抗氧化剂还是通式A或B的化合物
其中
R1表示-C(O)CH3、-CO2R3、-C(O)NH2和–C(O)N(R4)2,
X表示O或NH,
R2表示具有1至30个C原子的直链或支链烷基,
R3表示具有1至20个C原子的直链或支链烷基,
在每种情况下,R4彼此独立地表示H或具有1至8个C原子的直链或支链烷基,
R5表示H、具有1至8个C原子的直链或支链烷基或具有1至8个C原子的直链或支链烷氧基,和
R6表示具有1-8个C原子的直链或支链烷基。
优选2-(4-羟基-3,5-二甲氧基亚苄基)丙二酸和/或2-(4-羟基-3,5-二甲氧基苄基)丙二酸的衍生物,特别优选双(2-乙基己基)2-(4-羟基-3,5-二甲氧基亚苄基)丙二酸酯(例如ST Liquid)和/或双(2-乙基己基)2-(4-羟基-3,5-二甲氧基苄基)丙二酸酯(例如AP)。
抗氧化剂的混合物同样适用于根据本发明的制剂。已知和商用的混合物是例如包含作为活性成分的卵磷脂、L-(+)-抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯和柠檬酸、天然生育酚、L-(+)-抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯、L-(+)-抗坏血酸和柠檬酸(例如,K LIQUID)、天然来源的生育酚提取物、L-(+)-抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯、L-(+)-抗坏血酸和柠檬酸(例如,LLIQUID)、DL-α-生育酚、L-(+)-抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯、柠檬酸和卵磷脂(例如,LM)或丁基羟基甲苯(BHT)、L-(+)-抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯和柠檬酸(例如,2004)的混合物。这种类型的抗氧化剂与式(I)或其部分式的化合物通常以重量百分比计在1000:1至1:1000,优选以重量百分比计在100:1至1:100的范围用于这样的组合物中。
在具有抗氧化作用的酚中,多酚(其中一些是天然存在的)对于药物、化妆品或营养领域的应用特别有意义。例如,主要称为植物染料的类黄酮或生物类黄酮通常具有抗氧化潜力。Lemanska等人,Current Topics in Biophysics 2000,24(2),101-108涉及单和二羟基黄酮的取代模式的影响。其中观察到包含与酮官能团相邻的OH基团或在3'4'-或6,7-或7,8-位置具有OH基团的二羟基黄酮具有抗氧化性质,而在一些情况下其他单和二羟基黄酮没有抗氧化性质。
槲皮素(cyanidanol,cyanidenolon 1522,槲皮素(meletin),sophoretin,ericin,3,3',4',5,7-五羟基黄酮)经常被提及作为特别有效的抗氧化剂(例如Rice-Evans等人,Trends in Plant Science 1997,2(4),152-159)。Lemanska等人,Free RadicalBiology&Medicine 2001,31(7),869-881已经研究了羟基黄酮的抗氧化作用的pH依赖性。槲皮素在整个pH范围内在所研究的结构中表现出最高的活性。
根据本发明的制剂可包含维生素作为其他成分。根据本发明的制剂中优选存在维生素和维生素衍生物,其选自维生素A,维生素A丙酸酯,维生素A棕榈酸酯,维生素A醋酸酯,视黄醇,维生素B,盐酸氯化硫胺素(维生素B1),核黄素(维生素B2),烟酰胺,维生素C(抗坏血酸),维生素D,麦角钙化醇(维生素D2),维生素E,DL-α-生育酚,生育酚E乙酸酯,生育酚氢琥珀酸酯,维生素K1,秦皮甲素(维生素P活性化合物),硫胺素(维生素B1),烟酸(尼克酸),吡哆醇,吡哆醛,吡哆胺,(维生素B6),泛酸,生物素,叶酸和钴胺素(维生素B12),特别优选维生素A棕榈酸酯,维生素C及其衍生物,DL-α-生育酚,生育酚E乙酸酯,烟酸,泛酸和生物素。在化妆品应用的情况下,维生素通常以基于总重量的0.01至5重量%与制剂一起加入。营养-生理学应用面向各自推荐的维生素需求。
根据本发明的制剂还可包含至少一种用于维持和/或改善皮肤水分含量的物质。在不打算被视为限制的情况下,这些物质可以尤其是属于所谓的天然保湿因子的物质,例如,2-氧代吡咯烷5-羧酸。
根据本发明的制剂可另外包含抗衰老活性化合物、抗脂肪团活性化合物或常规皮肤保护或皮肤护理活性化合物。皮肤保护或皮肤护理活性化合物原则上可以是本领域技术人员已知的所有活性化合物。特别优选的抗衰老活性化合物是嘧啶羧酸、芳基肟、生物类黄酮、含生物类黄酮的提取物、色酮或类视黄醇。
另外,可以使用的抗衰老活性化合物是Merck的产品,例如5,7-二羟基-2-甲基色酮,以商品名Luremine,Isoquercetin,Tilirosid或Cyclopeptide 5销售。
已知的抗衰老物质还是色酮,如例如EP 1508327中所述,或类视黄醇,例如视黄醇(维生素A),视黄酸,视黄醛或以及维生素A的合成修饰的化合物。色酮和所描述的类视黄醇同时也是有效的抗脂肪团活性化合物。同样已知的抗脂肪团活性化合物是咖啡因。
在上述配制剂中,相容性溶质可有利地与所有已知的防腐剂或抗微生物活性化合物组合,例如茴香酸,醇,苯甲酸铵,丙酸铵,苯甲酸,溴硝丙二醇,对羟基苯甲酸丁酯,苄索氯铵,苯扎氯铵,5-溴-5-硝基-1,3-二噁烷,苯甲醇,硼酸,苯并异噻唑啉酮,苯并三唑,苄基半甲酸酯,苯甲酸苄酯(benzylparaben),2-溴-2-硝基丙烷-1,3-二醇,苯甲酸丁酯,氯苯甘醚,辛癸酸甘油酯,辛乙二醇(caprylyl glycol),茶树叶提取物(Camellia Sinensis leafextract),假丝酵母菌/葡萄糖/甲基菜籽酸酯,氯二甲酚,氯乙酰胺,氯己定,三氯叔丁醇,苯甲酸钙,对羟基苯甲酸钙,丙酸钙,水杨酸钙,山梨酸钙,克菌丹,氯胺T,氯己定二乙酸盐,氯己定二葡萄糖酸盐,盐酸氯己定,氯乙酰胺(chloroacetamine),对氯间甲酚,氯苯酚,对氯苯酚,氯麝酚,柚(CitrusGrandis)(葡萄柚)果实提取物,柚(葡萄柚)种子提取物,间甲酚,邻甲酚,对甲酚,混合的甲酚,1,2-癸二醇(INCI亚癸基二醇),重氮烷基脲,二氯苄醇,二甲基噁唑烷,DMDM乙内酰脲,二甲基羟甲基吡唑,脱氢乙酸,重氮烷基脲,DEDM乙内酰脲,DEDM乙内酰脲二月桂酸酯,二溴丙脒二异硫代硫酸盐,二羟甲基乙烯硫脲,二硫代甲基苯甲酰胺,DMHF,度米芬,7-乙基双环噁唑烷,对羟基苯甲酸乙酯,乙基己基甘油,乙醇,阿魏酸乙酯,甲醛,阿魏酸,甘油基癸酸酯,戊二醛,甘油甲酸酯,乙二醛,己脒定二(羟乙基磺酸)盐,己二醇,海克替啶,己脒定,己脒定二对羟基苯甲酸酯,己脒定对羟基苯甲酸酯,4-羟基苯甲酸,羟基甲基二氧氮杂双环辛烷,咪唑烷基脲,咪唑烷基脲NF,对羟基苯甲酸异丁基酯,异噻唑啉酮,碘代丙炔基丁基氨基甲酸酯,对羟基苯甲酸异癸基酯,异丙基甲酚,对羟基苯甲酸异丙酯,山梨酸异丙酯,山梨酸钾NF FCC,地衣酸铜,苯甲酸钾,对羟基苯甲酸乙酯钾,对羟基苯甲酸甲酯钾,对羟基苯甲酸钾,苯酚钾,邻苯基苯酚钾,丙酸钾,丙基对羟基苯甲酸钾,水杨酸钾,山梨酸钾,对羟基苯甲酸甲酯,甲基异噻唑啉酮,甲苄索氯铵苯酚,甲基二溴戊二腈,六亚甲基四铵氯化物,甲基溴戊二腈,苯甲酸镁,丙酸镁,水杨酸镁,MDM乙内酰脲,苯甲酸MEA盐,邻苯基苯酚MEA盐,水杨酸MEA盐,甲基氯噻唑啉酮(methylchloristhiazolinone),苯甲酸钠NF FCC,辛酸钠,脱氢乙酸钠,脱氢乙酸钠FCC,羟基甲基甘氨酸钠,对羟基苯甲酸甲酯钠,对羟基苯甲酸丙酯钠,碘酸钠,印度楝树籽油,乳链球菌素,苯甲酸钠,对羟基苯甲酸丁酯钠,对氯间甲酚钠,对羟基苯甲酸乙酯钠,甲酸钠,羟基甲烷磺酸钠,对羟基苯甲酸异丁酯钠,对羟基苯甲酸钠,苯酚磺酸钠,苯酚钠,邻苯基苯酚钠,丙酸钠,对羟基苯甲酸丙酯钠,吡啶硫酮钠,水杨酸钠,山梨酸钠,邻苯基苯酚,苯氧乙醇,对羟基苯甲酸丙酯,聚甲氧基-双环噁唑烷,海岸松树皮提取物,泊洛沙姆188,PVP碘,对羟基苯甲酸酯,吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐(pircotone olamines),苯乙醇,聚氨基丙基双胍,聚季铵盐-42(polyquarternium-42),PEG-5DEDM乙内酰脲,PEG-15DEDM乙内酰脲,PEG-5乙内酰脲油酸酯,PEG-15DEDM乙内酰脲硬脂酸酯,苯乙醇,苯酚,对羟基苯甲酸苯氧乙酯,苯氧基异丙醇,苯甲酸苯酯,苯基乙酸汞,苯基苯甲酸汞,苯基硼酸汞,苯基溴化汞,苯基氯化汞,苯基对羟基苯甲酸酯,邻苯基苯酚,聚氨丙基双胍硬脂酸酯,丙酸,苯甲酸丙酯,季铵盐-15,季铵盐-8,季铵盐-14,迷迭香叶(Rosmarinus officinalis leaf)提取物,山梨酸NF FCC,二硫化硒(selenium disulfine),山梨酸,水杨酸,硼硅酸银,磷酸银镁铝,三氯生,二-α-生育酚,生育酚乙酸酯,thimersal,三氯卡班,TEA山梨酸盐,硫柳汞,松萝酸,十一碳烯酰基PEG-5对羟基苯甲酸酯,葡萄籽提取物,茶树油,过氧化氢,吡啶硫酮锌,氧化锌,苯酚磺酸锌或其组合。
在这方面,制剂可包含WO2013/091775A2、WO2013/159865A1或WO2013/167220A1中描述的抗微生物活性化合物,特别是4-羟基-环己烷羧酸丁酯(可作为SereneShield购自Merck KGaA,Darmstadt,Germany)。
制剂可进一步包含抗痤疮活性化合物,例如,在WO2009/098139第47页第2行至第48页第27行和DE10324567中是可想到的。示例性的进一步抗痤疮活性化合物是银颗粒和银盐,例如乳酸银和柠檬酸银,壬二酸,鞣花酸,乳酸,乙醇酸,水杨酸,甘草酸,三氯生,苯氧基乙醇,己脒定羟乙基磺酸盐,酮康唑,过氧化物例如过氧化氢或过氧化苯甲酰,3-羟基苯甲酸,4-羟基苯甲酸,植酸,花生四烯酸,辛乙二醇,乙基己基甘油,法呢醇,十六烷基吡啶鎓盐,6-三甲基戊基-2-吡啶酮(吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐(Piroctone Olamine))和脂羟酸(lipohydroxy acid)(LHA)。
去头屑活性化合物是例如吡啶硫酮锌,吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐,二硫化硒,氯咪巴唑,三氯生,对羟基苯甲酸丁酯,1,3-双(羟甲基)-5,5-二甲基咪唑啉-2,4-二酮(DMDM乙内酰脲),富马酸,甲基氯异噻唑啉酮或甲基异噻唑啉酮(MIT)。
例如,可以提及以下作为根据本发明的制剂的使用形式:溶液,悬浮液,乳液,PIT乳液,糊剂,软膏,凝胶,乳霜,洗剂,泡沫,面膜(mask),粉末,肥皂,含有表面活性剂的清洁制剂,油,气溶胶,硬膏剂(plaster),敷布,绷带和喷雾剂,特别是用于外用。其他应用形式是例如棒、洗发剂和淋浴。此外,典型的化妆品使用形式还有唇膏、唇部护理棒、粉末、乳液和蜡化妆品,以及防晒、晒前和晒后制剂。
根据本发明的化妆品和皮肤病制剂尤其可以是无水制剂、洗剂或乳液,例如乳霜或乳,或微乳液(在每种情况下为油包水(W/O)型或水包油(O/W)型),多层乳液,例如水包油包水(W/O/W)型或反之亦然(O/W/O),凝胶或溶液(特别是油-醇,油-水或水-醇凝胶或溶液),固体棒,软膏或气溶胶。对于应用,将本发明的化妆品和皮肤病学制剂以化妆品的通常方式中的足够的量施用于皮肤。
可以向制剂中加入任何所需的常规媒介物、助剂和如果需要的其他活性化合物。优选的助剂来源于防腐剂、稳定剂、增溶剂、着色剂即颜料、染料、乳化剂或气味改进剂。
软膏、糊剂、乳霜和凝胶可包含适用于局部施用的常规媒介物,例如动物和植物脂肪、蜡、石蜡、淀粉、黄蓍胶、纤维素衍生物、聚乙二醇、硅酮、膨润土、二氧化硅、滑石和二氧化钛,或这些物质的混合物。
粉末和喷雾剂可包含常规媒介物,例如乳糖、滑石、二氧化硅、氢氧化铝、硅酸钙和聚酰胺粉末,或这些物质的混合物。喷雾剂可以另外包含常规的易挥发的液化推进剂,例如含氯氟烃、丙烷/丁烷或二甲醚。也可以有利地使用压缩的空气。然而,空气也可用于无压计量装置,例如泵式喷雾器。
溶液和乳液可包含常规媒介物,例如溶剂、增溶剂和乳化剂,例如水、乙醇、异丙醇、碳酸乙酯、乙酸乙酯、苯甲醇、苯甲酸苄酯、丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、油特别是棉籽油、花生油、小麦胚芽油、橄榄油、蓖麻油和芝麻油、甘油脂肪酸酯、聚乙二醇和脱水山梨糖醇的脂肪酸酯,或这些物质的混合物。
优选的增溶剂通常是2-异丙基-5-甲基环己烷-羰基-D-丙氨酸甲酯。
悬浮液可包括常规媒介物,例如液体稀释剂,例如水、乙醇或丙二醇、悬浮介质例如乙氧基化异硬脂醇、聚氧乙烯山梨糖醇酯和聚氧乙烯脱水山梨糖醇酯、微晶纤维素、偏氢氧化铝、膨润土、琼脂和黄蓍胶,或这些物质的混合物。
肥皂可包含常规媒介物,例如脂肪酸的碱金属盐,脂肪酸单酯的盐,脂肪酸蛋白水解物,异硫代硫酸盐(isothionate),羊毛脂,脂肪醇,植物油,植物提取物,甘油,糖或这些物质的混合物。
含表面活性剂的清洁产品可包含常规媒介物,例如脂肪醇硫酸盐,脂肪醇醚硫酸盐,磺基琥珀酸单酯,脂肪酸蛋白水解物,异硫代硫酸盐,咪唑啉鎓衍生物,甲基牛磺酸盐,肌氨酸盐,脂肪酸酰胺醚硫酸盐,烷基酰胺基甜菜碱,脂肪醇,脂肪酸甘油酯,脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺,植物油和合成油,羊毛脂衍生物,乙氧基化甘油脂肪酸酯,或这些物质的混合物。
面部和身体油可包含常规媒介物,例如合成油,例如脂肪酸酯,脂肪醇,硅油,天然油,例如植物油和油性植物提取物,石蜡油,羊毛脂油,或这些物质的混合物。
其他合适的媒介物是脂质体,环糊精或其他糖,例如山梨糖醇。
本发明的一个优选实施方案是乳液,其为乳霜或乳的形式,并且包含例如所述脂肪,油,蜡和其他脂肪物质,以及水或水相,例如具有溶剂或亲水性表面活性剂,和乳化剂,如通常用于这种类型的制剂的。
脂质相可以有利地选自以下物质组:
-矿物油,矿物蜡;
-油,例如癸酸或辛酸的甘油三酯,以及天然的油,例如蓖麻油;
-脂肪、蜡和其它天然和合成脂肪物质,优选脂肪酸与具有低碳数的醇(例如与异丙醇、丙二醇或甘油)的酯,或脂肪醇与具有低碳数的烷酸或与脂肪酸的酯;
-硅油,例如二甲基聚硅氧烷,二乙基聚硅氧烷,二苯基聚硅氧烷,及其混合形式。
出于本发明的目的,乳液、油凝胶或水分散体(hydrodispersion)或脂分散体(lipodispersion)的油相有利地选自链长为3至30个C原子的饱和和/或不饱和的支链和/或非支链的烷烃羧酸、链长为3至30个C原子的饱和和/或不饱和的支链和/或非支链的醇的酯,选自芳族羧酸和链长为3至30个C原子的饱和和/或不饱和的支链和/或非支链的醇的酯。这种类型的酯油可以有利地选自肉豆蔻酸异丙酯,棕榈酸异丙酯,硬脂酸异丙酯,油酸异丙酯,硬脂酸正丁酯,月桂酸正己酯,油酸正癸酯,硬脂酸异辛酯,硬脂酸异壬酯,异壬酸异壬酯,棕榈酸2-乙基己酯,月桂酸2-乙基己酯,硬脂酸2-十六烷基酯,棕榈酸2-辛基十二烷基酯,油酸油醇酯,瓢儿菜醇油酸酯,瓢儿菜醇芥酸酯油酸芥基酯,芥酸芥基酯,和这类酯的合成、半合成和天然混合物,例如,霍霍巴油。
此外,油相可有利地选自支链和非支链的烃和烃蜡、硅油、二烷基醚,选自饱和或不饱和的支链或非支链的醇和脂肪酸甘油三酯,特别是链长为8-24个C原子,特别是12-18个C原子的饱和和/或不饱和的支链和/或非支链的烷烃羧酸的三甘油酯。脂肪酸甘油三酯可以有利地选自,例如,合成、半合成和天然的油,例如橄榄油,向日葵油,大豆油,花生油,菜籽油,杏仁油,棕榈油,椰子油,棕榈仁油等。
这类油和蜡组分的任何所需的混合物也可有利地用于本发明的目的。使用蜡(例如十六烷基棕榈酸酯)作为油相的唯一脂质组分也可能是有利的。
根据本发明的制剂的水相可选地有利地包含具有低碳数的醇、二醇或多元醇,及其醚,优选乙醇,异丙醇,丙二醇,甘油,乙二醇,乙二醇单乙基或单丁基醚,丙二醇单甲基、单乙基或单丁基醚,二乙二醇单甲基或单乙基醚和类似产物,以及具有低碳数的醇,例如乙醇,异丙醇,1,2-丙二醇,甘油和特别地一种或多种增稠剂,其可以有利地选自二氧化硅、硅酸铝、多糖或其衍生物,例如透明质酸、黄原胶、羟丙基甲基纤维素,特别有利地选自聚丙烯酸酯,优选来自所谓的Carbopol的聚丙烯酸酯,例如Carbopol等级980、981、1382、2984、5984,在每种情况下其是单独的或组合的。特别是,使用上述溶剂的混合物。在醇溶剂的情况下,水可以是另一种成分。
在优选的实施方案中,根据本发明的制剂包含亲水性表面活性剂。亲水性表面活性剂优选选自烷基葡糖苷,酰基乳酸酯,甜菜碱和椰子两性乙酸盐。
可以使用的乳化剂是例如已知的W/O和O/W乳化剂。在根据本发明的优选O/W乳液中使用其他常规助乳化剂是有利的。
根据本发明选择的助乳化剂是有利的,例如,O/W乳化剂,主要选自HLB值为11-16(非常特别有利地具有14.5-15.5的HLB值)的物质,只要O/W乳化剂具有饱和基团R和R'。如果O/W乳化剂具有不饱和基团R和/或R',或者如果存在异烷基衍生物,则这种乳化剂的优选HLB值也可以更低或更高。
有利的是脂肪醇乙氧基化物选自乙氧基化硬脂醇、鲸蜡醇、十六烷基硬脂醇(鲸蜡硬脂醇)。
另外有利的是从以下组中选择脂肪酸乙氧基化物:
聚乙二醇(20)硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(21)硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(22)硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(23)硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(24)硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(25)硬脂酸酯,聚乙烯乙二醇(12)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(13)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(14)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(15)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(16)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(17)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(18)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(19)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(20)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(21)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(22)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(23)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(24)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(25)异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(12)油酸酯,聚乙二醇(13)油酸酯,聚乙二醇(14)油酸酯,聚乙二醇(15)油酸,聚乙二醇(16)油酸酯,聚乙二醇(17)油酸酯,聚乙二醇(18)油酸酯,聚乙二醇(19)油酸酯,聚乙二醇(20)油酸酯。
可有利地使用的乙氧基化烷基醚羧酸或其盐是月桂醇聚醚--11羧酸钠。可以有利地使用的烷基醚硫酸盐是月桂醇聚醚1-4硫酸钠。可有利地使用的乙氧基化胆固醇衍生物是聚乙二醇(30)胆固醇醚。聚乙二醇(25)大豆甾醇也被证明是成功的。可有利地使用的乙氧基化甘油三酯是聚乙二醇(60)月见草甘油酯。
此外,有利的是从以下选择聚乙二醇甘油脂肪酸酯:聚乙二醇(20)甘油基月桂酸酯,聚乙二醇(21)甘油基月桂酸酯,聚乙二醇(22)甘油基月桂酸酯,聚乙二醇(23)甘油基月桂酸酯,聚乙二醇(6)甘油基癸酸酯/cprinate,聚乙二醇(20)甘油基油酸酯,聚乙二醇(20)甘油基异硬脂酸酯,聚乙二醇(18)甘油基油酸酯(椰油酸酯)。
同样有利的是从聚乙二醇(20)脱水山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯、聚乙二醇(20)脱水山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯、聚乙二醇(20)脱水山梨糖醇单异硬脂酸酯、聚乙二醇(20)脱水山梨糖醇单棕榈酸酯和聚乙二醇(20)脱水山梨糖醇单油酸酯中选择脱水山梨糖醇酯。
以下可用作任选的W/O乳化剂,但是其根据本发明可能是有利的:
具有8-30个碳原子的脂肪醇,链长为8-24,特别是12-18个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和的支链和/或非支链的烷烃羧酸的单甘油酯,链长为8-24,特别是12-18个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和的支链和/或非支链的烷烃羧酸的二甘油酯,链长为8-24,特别是12-18个C原子的饱和和/或不饱和的支链和/或非支链的醇的单甘油醚,链长为8-24,特别是12-18个C原子的饱和和/或不饱和的支链和/或非支链的醇的双甘油醚,链长为8-24特别是12-18个碳原子的饱和和/或未饱和的支链和/或非支链的烷烃羧酸的丙二醇酯,链长为8-24,特别是12-18个C原子的饱和和/或不饱和的支链和/或非支链的烷烃羧酸的脱水山梨糖醇酯。
特别有利的W/O乳化剂是单硬脂酸甘油酯,单异硬脂酸甘油酯,单肉豆蔻酸甘油酯,单油酸甘油酯,单硬脂酸二甘油酯,单异硬脂酸二甘油酯,单硬脂酸丙二醇酯,单异硬脂酸丙二醇酯,单辛酸丙二醇酯,单月桂酸丙二醇酯,脱水山梨糖醇单异硬脂酸酯,脱水山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯,脱水山梨糖醇单辛酸酯,脱水山梨糖醇单异油酸酯,蔗糖二硬脂酸酯,鲸蜡醇,硬脂醇,花生醇,山萮醇,异山萮醇,沙油醇,鲛肝醇,聚乙二醇(2)十八烷基醚(硬脂醇聚氧乙烯醚-2),单月桂酸甘油酯,单癸酸甘油酯,单辛酸甘油酯或PEG-30二聚羟基硬脂酸酯。
制剂可包含通常用于此类制剂的化妆品佐剂,例如增稠剂,软化剂,润肤剂,表面活性剂,乳化剂,防腐剂,消泡剂,香料,蜡,羊毛脂,推进剂,染料和/或颜料(其使组合物本身或皮肤着色),以及化妆品中通常使用的其他成分。
所用的分散剂或增溶剂可以是油、蜡或其他脂肪物质、低级一元醇或低级多元醇或其混合物。特别优选的一元醇或多元醇包括乙醇、异丙醇、丙二醇、甘油和山梨糖醇。
进一步优选的实施方案是基于天然或合成油和蜡、羊毛脂、脂肪酸酯、特别是脂肪酸的甘油三酯的油性洗剂,或基于低级醇例如乙醇或甘油,例如丙二醇和/或多元醇,例如甘油以及油、蜡和脂肪酸酯例如脂肪酸的甘油三酯的油性醇洗剂。
根据本发明的制剂还可以是醇凝胶的形式,其包含一种或多种低级醇或多元醇(例如乙醇、丙二醇或甘油)和增稠剂,例如硅质土。油性醇凝胶还含有天然或合成的油或蜡。
固体棒优选由天然或合成的蜡和油、脂肪醇、脂肪酸、脂肪酸酯、羊毛脂和其他脂肪物质组成。
如果将制剂配制成气溶胶,则优选使用常用的推进剂,例如烷烃、空气、氮气、一氧化二氮,特别优选烷烃或空气。
本发明的另一个实施方案是如上所述的制剂,其特征在于存在适用于局部应用的媒介物和任选生理学上可接受的助剂和/或填充剂。这样的媒介物、助剂和填充剂如上文所述定义。
本发明的另一个实施方案涉及制备如上所述的制剂的方法,其特征在于将至少一种相容性溶质与至少一种另外的皮肤毛孔淡化活性物质和任选与其他成分混合。
这些化合物可以以通常的方式掺入化妆品或皮肤病学制剂中。
制备方法通常包括以下步骤:(a)将至少一种相容性溶质与至少一种另外的毛孔淡化活性化合物和至少一种适合局部应用的媒介物混合,并任选地与生理学上可接受的助剂和/或或填充剂混合,和任选地(b)相容性溶质的明显准备就绪(apparent making-ready)。可以借助于本领域技术人员熟知的技术制备本发明的制剂。如上文所述,混合可导致至少一种相容性溶质在媒介物中溶解、乳化或分散。本发明的与相容性溶质和制剂有关的先前教导及其实施方案是有效的,并且如果看起来合适,可以在不限制制剂的制备的情况下应用。
不言而喻的是,明显准备就绪是针对本发明意义上的用途,即用于抵抗与年龄相关的皮肤颜色变化,用于淡化毛孔和/或减少人体皮肤中的黄色或深色皮肤毛孔的数量,用于使皮肤颜色均匀和/或减少皮肤颜色的不均匀性,用于抑制和/或减少蛋白质羰基化和/或用于抑制和/或减少角质层中羰基化蛋白质的累积。例如,明显或适当的准备就绪可以在于:a)物质或事物的特定排列,即如果这些以这样的方式进行个性化以使得针对根据本专利的用途的适用性是明显的;b)出售使用说明附件(例如包装说明书);c)配制、装配、分配和即用包装;d)治疗计划、剂量建议;e)使用特定用途的商品名称(Schulte/Kühnen,GermanPatents Act,8th Edition,§14marginal note 101)。
将如上所述的组合物施用于皮肤。
即使没有进一步的评论,也假设本领域技术人员将能够在其最广泛的范围内利用以上描述。因此,优选实施方案应仅被视为描述性公开,其绝对不以任何方式进行限制。
以上和以下提及的所有申请和出版物的完整公开内容通过引用的方式并入本申请中。
以下实施例旨在举例说明本发明。但是,它们绝不应被视为是限制性的。
实施例
实施例1:具有细胞内累积的羰基化蛋白质的细胞的发育
蛋白质羰基化由通过脂质过氧化合成的活性醛化合物引发。由于皮肤毛孔总是被皮脂浸透,因此作为皮脂成分之一的油酸被用作细胞内合成反应性醛化合物的来源,以建立具有累积的羰基化蛋白质的细胞。
方法:
细胞培养:HaCaT角质形成细胞在补充有5%胎牛血清(FBS)(Thermofisher,Waltham,CA,USA)的Dulbeco改良Eagle培养基(DMEM)(Nissui,Tokyo,Japan)中于37℃下在5%CO2和95%空气中培养。
对于此实施例,将HaCaT角质形成细胞在含有几种浓度的油酸的DMEM中培养48小时。在用冷甲醇固定5分钟后,使细胞与0.1mol/L MES-Na缓冲液(pH5.5)中的20μmol/LFTSC(Sigma-Aldrich,St.Louis,MO,USA)在室温下反应1小时。使用荧光酶标仪TECAN SPARK10M(Switzerland)在Ex/Em 492nm/516nm处测量来源于CP的荧光强度。通过测量用Hoechst 33342-(Sigma-Aldrich(St.Louis,MO,USA))染色的细胞核的荧光强度测定细胞数。细胞内CP水平计算为FTSC的荧光强度/细胞核的荧光强度。
结果:
结果如图1所示:用油酸培养的HaCaT角质形成细胞显示出更高水平的细胞内CP。
实施例2:依克多因抑制细胞内羰基化蛋白质累积的影响
分析了依克多因对羰基化蛋白质累积的影响。
为了诱导Hsp70,将HaCaT角质形成细胞与100mM依克多因(Merck KGaA,Germany)一起培养24小时。将细胞与油酸一起培养另外48小时,并测定CP水平。在该检查中,使用200μM油酸来评估依克多因对细胞中CP累积的影响。
方法:
将HaCaT角质形成细胞在含有5%FBS和100mM依克多因的DMEM中培养24小时。用含有200μM油酸的DMEM进一步培养细胞48小时。用冷甲醇固定5分钟后,将细胞与0.1mol/LMES-Na缓冲液(pH5.5)中的20μmol/L FTSC在室温下反应1小时。来源于CP的荧光强度用荧光酶标仪TECAN SPARK 10M(Switzerland)在Ex/Em 492nm/516nm下测量。通过测量用Hoechst33342染色的细胞核的荧光强度来确定细胞数量。细胞内CP水平计算为FTSC的荧光强度/细胞核的荧光强度。
结果:
用依克多因预处理的细胞显示出抑制通过油酸的CP累积(图2)。
实施例3:依克多因对UVA和蓝光诱导的羰基化蛋白质形成的保护作用
评估了依克多因对UVA和蓝光诱导的羰基化蛋白质形成的保护活性。
方法:
将HaCaT角质形成细胞在具有10%SVF的无钙DMEM(Dulbecco改良的Eagle培养基)中在37℃和补充了5%CO2的潮湿的气氛中培养24小时。
在该初始时间段后,用各个活性化合物处理细胞培养物。未处理的样品用作参考。
以下活性化合物用于上述方法:
-溶于培养基中的0.5%w/v依克多因(Merck KGaA,Germany)
-溶于培养基中的0.3%w/v依克多因(Merck KGaA,Germany)
-作为内参的2.5mM N-乙酰半胱氨酸(NAC)(Sigma-Aldrich)
在24小时的时间段之后,通过用蓝光照射(460nm)或UVA照射(365nm)处理来在样品中诱导应激。另外,未经活性化合物处理的样品未进行照射以进行比较。
蓝光照射(460nm):
-来源:LED
-辐照度:53mW/cm2
-剂量:35J/cm2-(相当于计算机屏幕在8小时/天的过程中持续3天的发射量)
-照射时间:11分钟
UVA照射(365nm):
-来源:LED
-辐照度:50mW/cm2
-剂量:33J/cm2(即强度小于在欧洲中部阳光下在中午15分钟)
-照射时间:11分钟
在应激诱导后,立即将样品在-80℃下在液氮中快速冷冻用于分析。
为每种测试条件准备三个样品。
羰基化蛋白质的原位检测:在样品解冻后,使用OxiProteomics的验证方案从细胞中提取蛋白质。使用校准的BSA作为标准,通过Bradford方法(Bradford,1976,Anal.Biochem.,72,248)溶解和定量提取的蛋白质。将样品分成3份相等的量用于分析。
羰基化蛋白质用在蛋白质组学中常规使用的特异性功能化荧光探针(使用Cy3NHS(-羟基磺基琥珀酰亚胺))标记。然后通过高分辨率电泳分离(4-20%梯度SDS-PAGE;缓冲液trys-甘氨酸(Biorad))解析蛋白质。将蛋白质固定在凝胶上。用SyproRuby TM蛋白凝胶染剂对总蛋白质进行后染色。使用DIGE成像仪(GE Healthcare)进行羰基化和总蛋白质的图像采集。使用ImageJ分析软件(Rasband,W.S.,ImageJ,U.S.National Instituteof Health,Bethesda,Maryland,USA,http://imagej.nih.gov/ij/,1997-B014)进行蛋白质带的密度计(Densitomertric)分析。从每个样品获得羰基化和总蛋白质的定量。
结果:
结果如图3至图6所示:
图3和5显示了在使用UVA照射的样品(图3)和使用蓝光照射的样品(图5)的SDS-PAGE之后获得的图像。图3和5中的左侧凝胶显示荧光标记的羰基化蛋白质;图3和图5中的右侧凝胶显示了染色后的总蛋白质。
图4(UVA照射)和6(蓝光照射)分别显示了根据图3和5的SDS-PAGE凝胶的定量分析。
样品代码:
CTRL=未经处理、未经辐照的对照
UVA=未经处理,用UVA照射
BL/蓝光=未经处理,用蓝光照射
NAC=N-乙酰半胱氨酸处理,用UVA或蓝光照射
依克多因0.3=用0.3%w/v的依克多因处理,用UVA或蓝光照射
依克多因0.5=用0.5%w/v的依克多因处理,用UVA或蓝光照射
图3和4显示,与对照相比,浓度为0.3%的依克多因针对UVA诱导的蛋白质羰基化具有显著的保护作用。由于测量数据的统计偏差太高而无法实现可靠解释,因此未观察到对照和浓度为0.5%的依克多因之间的显著比较。
图5和6显示,浓度为0.3%和0.5%的依克多因针对蓝光诱导的蛋白质羰基化具有显著的保护作用。两种使用水平的性能是相当的。
实施例4:用于敏感和脱水皮肤的水性面膜
程序:
混合水、甘油和A相的活性成分。搅拌至均匀。在低搅拌下喷洒Covacryl MV60,然后增加搅拌并搅拌至均匀。加入B并搅拌至均匀。加入C并搅拌至均匀。必要时调节至pH6.5。
备注:
外观:白色凝胶
pH:6.5
粘度:40 000cP(Fungilab Expert,Spindle PB,5rpm)
稳定性:室温、4℃和45℃下3个月
供应商:
(1)Merck KGaA,Darmstadt,Germany/EMD Performance Materials
(2)Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
实施例5:用于敏感和干燥皮肤的舒缓面膜
Carbopol Ultrez 21分散在水中并搅拌至均匀。加入与甘油预混合的黄原胶,搅拌至均匀。加入活性成分,搅拌至均匀。加入Montanov并加热A至80℃。
制备B相并将B加热至80℃。乳液:在高搅拌下将B倒入A中。用C中和并均化。
在T<60℃下加入D并搅拌至均匀。在温和搅拌下缓慢冷却乳霜。在T<35℃下加入E并搅拌至均匀。
备注:
外观:浓稠的白色乳霜
pH:6.3
粘度:370 000cP(Fungilab Expert,Spindle PD,3rpm)。2周后产品达到其粘度
稳定性:室温、4℃和45℃下3个月
供应商:
(1)Merck KGaA,Darmstadt,Germany/EMD Performance Materials
(2)Gattefossé
(3)Solvay
(4)Seppic
(5)BASF AG
(6)Greentech SA
(7)Croda
实施例6:用于敏感和干燥皮肤的日霜
程序:
制备A相并在搅拌下混合直至均匀。制备B并将A和B加热至80℃。将C加入B中并搅拌至均匀。将D加入B+C中并搅拌至均匀。
乳液:在搅拌下将B+C+D倒入A中。均化。在温和搅拌下缓慢冷却乳霜。
在T<30℃时,添加预混合的E并搅拌至均匀。
备注:
外观:浓稠的白色乳霜
pH:6.3
粘度:120 000cP(Fungilab Expert,Spindle PC,5rpm)
稳定性:室温、4℃和45℃下3个月
供应商:
(1)Merck KGaA,Darmstadt,Germany/EMD Performance Materials
(2)Seppic
(3)BASF AG
(4)Brenntag Chemiepartner GmbH
实施例7:用于敏感和干燥皮肤的晚霜
程序:
在搅拌下将A相加热至85℃。在搅拌下将B1相加热至85℃。在搅拌下将B2相加热至85℃并检查Isoquercetin的分散。然后将B2添加到B1。搅拌至均匀。乳液:在快速混合下将B缓慢倒入A中并保持快速混合约15分钟。
在乳液步骤之后缓慢加入C并搅拌至均匀。冷却并在T<40℃下在快速混合下缓慢加入D并搅拌至均匀。
备注:
外观:黄色乳霜
粘度:85 000cP(Fungilab Expert,Spindle PC,5rpm)
稳定性:室温、4℃和45℃下3个月
供应商:
(1)Merck KGaA,Darmstadt,Germany/EMD Performance Materials
(2)Gattefossé
(3)BASF AG
(4)Stearinerie Dubois Fils
Claims (16)
1.至少一种相容性溶质和/或其生理学上可接受的盐用于抵抗与年龄相关的皮肤颜色变化的用途。
2.根据权利要求1的用途,其用于淡化皮肤毛孔和/或用于减少人体皮肤中黄色或深色皮肤毛孔的数量。
3.根据权利要求1或2的用途,其用于使皮肤颜色均匀和/或用于减少皮肤颜色的不均匀性。
4.至少一种相容性溶质和/或其生理学上可接受的盐用于抑制和/或减少蛋白质羰基化和/或用于抑制和/或减少羰基化蛋白质在角质层中,特别是在皮肤毛孔周围的累积的用途。
5.根据权利要求1至4中一项或多项的用途,其特征在于所述至少一种相容性溶质选自:海藻糖,甘油,糖基甘油,β-甘露糖基甘油酸酯(firoin),β-甘露糖基甘油酸酰胺(firoin A),二-myo-肌醇磷酸酯(DIP),环状2,3-二磷酸甘油酸酯(cDPG),1,1-二甘油磷酸酯(DGP),二甘露糖基二肌醇磷酸酯(DMIP),甜菜碱,甘氨酸甜菜碱,脯氨酸甜菜碱,谷氨酸甜菜碱,丙氨酸,脯氨酸,谷氨酰胺,N-乙酰基赖氨酸,谷氨酰胺1-酰胺,牛磺酸,胆碱,胆碱O-硫酸盐,肉碱,砷-甜菜碱,巴豆甜菜碱,二甲基磺基乙酸酯,二甲基磺基丙酸酯,高甜菜碱,三甲胺N-氧化物,和选自根据式Ia和Ib的化合物的化合物
和/或其生理学上可接受的盐和/或立体异构体,
其中,
R1是H或烷基,
R2是H、COOH、COO-烷基或CO-NH-R5,
R3是H或OH,
R4是H或OH,
n是1、2或3,
R5是H、烷基、氨基酸部分、二肽部分或三肽部分
烷基是具有1至4个C原子的烷基。
6.根据权利要求1至5中一项或多项的用途,其特征在于所述至少一种相容性溶质选自:海藻糖,β-甘露糖基甘油酸酯(firoin),β-甘露糖基甘油酸酰胺(firoin A),二-myo-肌醇磷酸酯(DIP),环状2,3-二磷酸甘油酸酯(cDPG),1,1-二甘油磷酸酯(DGP),二甘露糖基二肌醇磷酸酯(DMIP),甜菜碱,和选自根据式Ia和Ib的化合物的化合物
和/或其生理学上可接受的盐和/或立体异构体,
其中,
R1是H或烷基,
R2是H、COOH、COO-烷基或CO-NH-R5,
R3是H或OH,
R4是H或OH,
n是1、2或3,
R5是H、烷基、氨基酸部分、二肽部分或三肽部分
烷基是具有1至4个C原子的烷基。
7.根据权利要求1至6中一项或多项的用途,其特征在于所述至少一种相容性溶质选自根据式Ia和Ib的化合物
和/或其生理学上可接受的盐和/或立体异构体,
其中,
R1是H或烷基,
R2是H、COOH、COO-烷基或CO-NH-R5,
R3是H或OH,
R4是H或OH,
n是1、2或3,
R5是H、烷基、氨基酸部分、二肽部分或三肽部分
烷基是具有1至4个C原子的烷基。
8.根据权利要求1至7中一项或多项的用途,其特征在于所述至少一种相容性溶质选自(S)-1,4,5,6-四氢-2-甲基-4-嘧啶羧酸和(S,S)-1,4,5,6-四氢-5-羟基-2-甲基-4-嘧啶羧酸。
9.根据权利要求1-8中一项或多项的用途,其特征在于所述至少一种相容性溶质是(S)-1,4,5,6-四氢-2-甲基-4-嘧啶羧酸。
10.配制剂,其包含至少一种相容性溶质和/或其生理学上可接受的盐和至少一种另外的皮肤毛孔淡化活性物质。
11.根据权利要求10的配制剂,其中所述至少一种相容性溶质选自根据式Ia和Ib的化合物
和/或其生理学上可接受的盐和/或立体异构体,
其中,
R1是H或烷基,
R2是H、COOH、COO-烷基或CO-NH-R5,
R3是H或OH,
R4是H或OH,
n是1、2或3,
R5是H、烷基、氨基酸部分、二肽部分或三肽部分
烷基是具有1至4个C原子的烷基。
12.根据权利要求10或11的配制剂,其特征在于另外存在一种或多种UV过滤剂。
13.根据权利要求10-12中一项或多项的配制剂,其特征在于另外存在至少一种皮肤增亮活性化合物。
14.根据权利要求10-13中一项或多项的配制剂,其特征在于存在适用于局部施用的媒介物和任选生理学上可接受的助剂和/或填充剂。
15.根据权利要求10-14中一项或多项的配制剂,其特征在于所述至少一种相容性溶质在配制剂中的存在量为配制剂重量的0.01-10%。
16.用于制备根据权利要求10-15中一项或多项的配制剂的方法,其特征在于将至少一种相容性溶质与至少一种另外的皮肤毛孔淡化活性物质和任选其它成分混合。
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FR3104973B1 (fr) * | 2019-12-20 | 2022-07-22 | Sederma Sa | Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique agissant notamment sur les effets de la lumière bleue sur la peau et ses phanères, et utilisations associées |
WO2022219018A1 (en) * | 2021-04-16 | 2022-10-20 | Dsm Ip Assets B.V. | Retinol formulation (iii) |
CN115159671B (zh) * | 2022-06-30 | 2023-06-23 | 苏州博净源环境科技有限公司 | 一种基于高盐废水好氧处理的调渗剂及其制备方法与应用 |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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JP2020509069A (ja) | 2020-03-26 |
JP7132935B2 (ja) | 2022-09-07 |
WO2018162368A1 (en) | 2018-09-13 |
CN110381917B (zh) | 2023-10-31 |
US20200030214A1 (en) | 2020-01-30 |
EP3592329A1 (en) | 2020-01-15 |
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