CN110158223A - 棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺 - Google Patents

棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN110158223A
CN110158223A CN201910415871.2A CN201910415871A CN110158223A CN 110158223 A CN110158223 A CN 110158223A CN 201910415871 A CN201910415871 A CN 201910415871A CN 110158223 A CN110158223 A CN 110158223A
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cotton
tentering
woven fabric
production technology
cotton wool
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曹媛媛
牛金海
蔡海娟
翟天泽
张文娟
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Luthai Textile Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C9/00—Singeing
    • D06C9/02—Singeing by flame
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/50—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with organometallic compounds; with organic compounds containing boron, silicon, selenium or tellurium atoms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

本发明提供一种棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：经纬纱均采用纱支为棉羊毛混纺40英支单纱或50英支单纱或60英支单纱，混纺比为棉70～85％，羊毛30～15％，面料组织为3/1斜纹、2/1斜纹、2/2斜纹或2/2破斜，经密为120～150根/英寸，纬密为80～110根/英寸，生产流程依次为纺纱→染色→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→液氨→预拉幅→磨毛→磨毛→拉幅→预缩。利用本发明织出的面料不仅具有棉纤维的吸湿、透气，手感柔软特点，又保留了羊毛纤维优异的弹性、柔软的手感及保暖性能，由棉和羊毛做制成的高档色织混纺面料同时兼具两者的优点，面料质地轻薄，手感柔软、保暖性能好，具有优越的耐洗性和一定的抗皱性。

Description

棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及一种棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，属于纺织技术领域。
背景技术
羊毛纤维膨松，质感柔软，保暖性好，回弹好，广泛应用各种针织领域，但其起毛起球性差、缩水性差，有一定刺痒感，不能洗衣机洗涤，在高档色织面料、高档色织衬衣领域还是空白。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种能克服上述缺陷、织出性能优良面料的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺。其技术方案为：
一种棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：经纬纱均采用纱支为棉羊毛混纺40英支单纱或50英支单纱或60英支单纱，混纺比为棉70～85％，羊毛30～15％，面料组织为3/1斜纹、2/1斜纹、2/2斜纹或2/2破斜，经密为120～150根/英寸，纬密为80～110根/英寸，生产流程依次为纺纱→染色→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→液氨→预拉幅→磨毛→磨毛→拉幅→预缩。
所述的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，烧毛车速为85～105m/min，烧毛方式采用切烧或者直烧，火焰强度8-12毫巴。
所述的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，液氨车速为25～50m/min。
所述的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，预拉幅工序中，轧槽内脂肪酸类柔软剂的浓度为5～15g/L，预拉幅温度110～140℃。
所述的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，磨毛车速为10～30m/min，大锡林转速15-30r/min，张力200-300N。
所述的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，拉幅工序中，轧槽内有机硅类柔软剂和脂肪酸类柔软剂的浓度均为5～20g/L，落布含水率6.5±0.5％，拉幅温度120～140℃。
本发明与现有技术相比，其优点在于：
1)由于面料采用天然纤维棉与动物纤维羊毛科学混比，浑然天成，采用合理的烧毛工艺、磨毛工艺和柔软剂用量，结合液氨整理技术，弥补了羊毛纤维的缺点，彻底改变传统羊毛面料缩水率差、起毛起球性差、不能水洗、有刺痒感的概念。
2)本方法可以处理羊毛和长绒棉混纺纱线，所制成面料具有较高的纱支，不仅具有棉纤维的吸湿、透气，手感柔软，且保留了羊毛纤维保暖性能和优异的弹性，所以制成的面料质地轻薄，抗起毛起球性能好，可耐手洗、洗衣机洗涤等水洗方式，具有一定抗皱效果。
3)本发明工艺稳定性强且能适应大货、多品种的快速生产要求。
具体实施方式
实施例1：
经向 密度：120根/英寸，纱支：40英支单纱，成分：棉70％、羊毛30％
纬向 密度：90根/英寸，纱支：40英支单纱，成分：棉70％、羊毛30％
组织结构 2/2破斜
颜色 蓝灰黑多色格子
其具体步骤为：
生产流程依次为纺纱→染色→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→液氨→预拉幅→磨毛→磨毛→拉幅→预缩。其中烧毛车速为95m/min，烧毛方式采用切烧，火焰强度10毫巴；液氨车速为30m/min；磨毛车速为15m/min，大锡林转速20r/min，张力200N；在预拉幅工序中，轧槽内脂肪酸类柔软剂RQR的浓度为15g/L，预拉幅温度120℃；在拉幅工序中，轧槽内有机硅类柔软剂SMI-50和脂肪酸类柔软剂RQR的浓度均为10g/L，落布含水率6.5％，拉幅温度120℃，其它工序均为常规。
实施例2：
经向 密度：140根/英寸，纱支：50英支合股纱，成分：棉80％、羊毛20％
纬向 密度：90根/英寸，纱支：50英支合股纱，成分：棉80％、羊毛20％
组织结构 2/2斜纹
颜色 红白灰多色格子
其具体步骤为：
生产流程依次为纺纱→染色→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→液氨→预拉幅→磨毛→磨毛→拉幅→预缩。其中烧毛车速为90m/min，烧毛方式采用直烧，火焰强度8毫巴；液氨车速为25m/min；磨毛车速为20m/min，大锡林转速25r/min，张力250N；在预拉幅工序中，轧槽内脂肪酸类柔软剂RQR的浓度为10g/L，预拉幅温度130℃；在拉幅工序中，轧槽内有机硅类柔软剂SMI-50和脂肪酸类柔软剂RQR的浓度均为20g/L，落布含水率7％，拉幅温度130℃，其它工序均为常规。
实施例3：
经向 密度：150根/英寸，纱支：60英支合股纱，成分：棉85％、羊毛15％
纬向 密度：100根/英寸，纱支：60英支合股纱，成分：棉85％、羊毛15％
组织结构 3/1斜纹
颜色 经向白色纬向蓝色
其具体步骤为：
生产流程依次为纺纱→染色→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→液氨→预拉幅→磨毛→磨毛→拉幅→预缩。其中烧毛车速为105m/min，烧毛方式采用切烧，火焰强度12毫巴；液氨车速为20m/min；磨毛车速为25m/min，大锡林转速15r/min，张力300N；在预拉幅工序中，轧槽内脂肪酸类柔软剂RQR的浓度为5g/L，预拉幅温度135℃；在拉幅工序中，轧槽内有机硅类柔软剂SMI-50和脂肪酸类柔软剂RQR的浓度均为5g/L，落布含水率6％，拉幅温度135℃，其它工序均为常规。
测试结果：
成品面料外观效果较好，对实施例1、实施例2、实施例3所得到面料进行内在质量测试数据，测试标准执行：起毛起球GB/T4802.1法、缩水率GB/T8629-2017法、吸水性AATCC79法，平整度AATCC 124法、断裂强力ASTM D5035法、撕破强力ASTM D1424法，结果如下表：

Claims (6)

1.一种棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：经纬纱均采用纱支为棉羊毛混纺40英支单纱或50英支单纱或60英支单纱，混纺比为棉70～85％，羊毛30～15％，面料组织为3/1斜纹、2/1斜纹、2/2斜纹或2/2破斜，经密为120～150根/英寸，纬密为80～110根/英寸，生产流程依次为纺纱→染色→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→液氨→预拉幅→磨毛→磨毛→拉幅→预缩。
2.根据权利要求1所述的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：烧毛车速为85～105m/min，烧毛方式采用切烧或者直烧，火焰强度8-12毫巴。
3.根据权利要求1所述的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：液氨车速为25～50m/min。
4.根据权利要求1所述的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：预拉幅工序中，轧槽内脂肪酸类柔软剂的浓度为5～15g/L，预拉幅温度110～140℃。
5.根据权利要求1所述的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：磨毛车速为10～30m/min，大锡林转速15-30r/min，张力200-300N。
6.根据权利要求1所述的棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：拉幅工序中，轧槽内有机硅类柔软剂和脂肪酸类柔软剂的浓度均为5～20g/L，落布含水率6.5±0.5％，拉幅温度120～140℃。
CN201910415871.2A 2019-05-18 2019-05-18 棉羊毛混纺色织面料的生产工艺 Pending CN110158223A (zh)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113005598A (zh) * 2021-02-24 2021-06-22 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 高密暖棉整理的纯棉面料及制造方法
CN113564780A (zh) * 2021-08-02 2021-10-29 金利来(中国)有限公司 一种羊毛混纺面料的制造方法

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101220541A (zh) * 2008-01-28 2008-07-16 杨竹园 羊绒棉面料及其纯天然环保加工工艺
CN103276500A (zh) * 2013-05-31 2013-09-04 江阴福斯特纺织有限公司 超仿棉羊绒双面面料及其制备工艺
CN104178883A (zh) * 2014-08-16 2014-12-03 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 棉腈纶混纺色织面料的生产工艺
CN107164868A (zh) * 2017-07-13 2017-09-15 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 一种含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料及其加工方法

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101220541A (zh) * 2008-01-28 2008-07-16 杨竹园 羊绒棉面料及其纯天然环保加工工艺
CN103276500A (zh) * 2013-05-31 2013-09-04 江阴福斯特纺织有限公司 超仿棉羊绒双面面料及其制备工艺
CN104178883A (zh) * 2014-08-16 2014-12-03 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 棉腈纶混纺色织面料的生产工艺
CN107164868A (zh) * 2017-07-13 2017-09-15 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 一种含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料及其加工方法

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113005598A (zh) * 2021-02-24 2021-06-22 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 高密暖棉整理的纯棉面料及制造方法
CN113564780A (zh) * 2021-08-02 2021-10-29 金利来(中国)有限公司 一种羊毛混纺面料的制造方法

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