CN110055668B - Processing method of novel knitted jacquard over-wool fabric - Google Patents

Processing method of novel knitted jacquard over-wool fabric Download PDF

Info

Publication number
CN110055668B
CN110055668B CN201910313991.1A CN201910313991A CN110055668B CN 110055668 B CN110055668 B CN 110055668B CN 201910313991 A CN201910313991 A CN 201910313991A CN 110055668 B CN110055668 B CN 110055668B
Authority
CN
China
Prior art keywords
fabric
machine
wool
follows
roller
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
CN201910313991.1A
Other languages
Chinese (zh)
Other versions
CN110055668A (en
Inventor
黄雪红
陈志华
郁宇
郁丽
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Jiangyin Longyang Textiles Co ltd
Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Original Assignee
Jiangyin Longyang Textiles Co ltd
Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Jiangyin Longyang Textiles Co ltd, Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College filed Critical Jiangyin Longyang Textiles Co ltd
Priority to CN201910313991.1A priority Critical patent/CN110055668B/en
Publication of CN110055668A publication Critical patent/CN110055668A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CN110055668B publication Critical patent/CN110055668B/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Images

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C13/00—Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C21/00—Shrinking by compressing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
    • D06C3/10—Hooks, pin-blocks, or like apparatus
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/39—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using acid dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/445—Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8209—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing amide groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/20—Protein-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2211/24—Casein
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14—Dyeability

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a processing method of a novel knitted jacquard woolen fabric, which comprises the following steps: raw material selection → yarn dyeing → weaving → after finishing → finished product packaging, wherein the after finishing process comprises the following steps: the method comprises the following steps: fulling, shaking, scutching, rolling a softening agent, presetting, napping, burling, carding, setting, ironing, shearing and decating. The raw materials of the invention adopt 80% of wool protein fiber and 20% of wool for blending, the wool protein fiber integrates the advantages of natural wool fiber and regenerated cellulose fiber, has silk luster and velvet softness, the produced fabric has soft hand feeling like cashmere, excellent heat retention property, rich amino acid, good skin-friendly property, excellent moisture absorption and air permeability, good comfort, bright color, bright luster, and can be dyed by an acid one-bath method, the original performance is still kept after dyeing, the invention has excellent taking safety, can be naturally degraded, and meets the requirement of environmental protection.

Description

Processing method of novel knitted jacquard over-wool fabric
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of fabrics in the textile industry, and particularly relates to a processing method of a novel knitted jacquard woolen fabric.
Background
The wool protein fiber is protein composite fiber prepared by utilizing a superfine pulverization technology, pulverizing wool into protein powder with proper particle size, carrying out special process protection treatment on the protein powder and carrying out a regenerated cellulose fiber production process. The fiber is different from the traditional regenerated protein fiber preparation technology, avoids protein dissolution, cannot damage the original structure of protein, avoids environmental pollution caused by the subsequent crosslinking and curing process in the traditional process, and realizes perfect coexistence of cellulose materials and protein materials on the microstructure.
Fiber properties were analyzed as follows: 1. the superior thermal performance derives from the special cross-section: common viscose fiber, protein fiber section and cashmere section; 2. rich in various amino acids, and is skin-friendly; 3, the C-shaped hollow section is rich in amino acid, absorbs moisture, generates heat, and is bacteriostatic and antibacterial.
Disclosure of Invention
The purpose of the invention is as follows: in order to overcome the defects in the prior art, the invention provides a processing method of a novel knitted jacquard woolen fabric.
The technical scheme is as follows: a processing method of a novel knitted jacquard woolen fabric comprises the following steps:
raw material selection → yarn dyeing → weaving → after finishing → finished product packaging;
1, selecting raw materials:
yarn count 1: 16Nm, roving (20% wool/80% lyocell);
yarn count 2: 40D chinlon;
2, yarn dyeing:
the formula of the black dye solution comprises:
Figure BDA0002032474300000021
the dyeing process comprises the following steps: the temperature is 100 ℃, and the time is 30 min;
the formula of the gray dye solution comprises:
Figure BDA0002032474300000022
the dyeing process comprises the following steps: the temperature is 100 ℃, and the time is 30 min;
3, weaving of the fabric:
the computer double-sided wool-smoothing jacquard fabric is used, the design pattern of the plover lattice is adopted, the jacquard is used for weaving the fabric, and the fabric is subjected to the double-sided wool-smoothing post-finishing process, so that the two sides of the fabric can have good suede effect;
4, after-finishing process: the method comprises the following steps: fulling, swinging, scutching, rolling a softening agent, presetting, napping, burling, shaping, ironing, shearing and decating;
the milling is as follows: the rope-shaped fulling is adopted, one side of the fabric is firstly put into the inlet of a machine, then the fabric is put in and out by rotating the machine, and then the fabric is sewn together end to end by needles and threads. The rope-shaped fulling machine can well shrink the density of the fabric by putting the fabric into the rope-shaped fulling machine and adjusting the cloth feeding width, air pressure and time of the machine, so that the fabric becomes thicker, and the fluff of the fabric is covered on the surface of the fabric to achieve the effect of a suede;
the preparation work is as follows: the method comprises the steps of firstly washing and drying the large-circle woven fabric in water, and then marking the fabric with a length of one meter at the position of about two meters from the beginning. In the fulling process, the original sample is compared with the fabric at regular time, and the shrinkage of the original sample is kept similar to that of the fabric. After the fulling is finished, recording the fabric, recording the fulling time, the width after fulling and the length after fulling of one-meter cloth marks of the fabric, providing parameters for the subsequent shaping, and additionally, cleaning the fulling machine before fulling;
the requirements of the fulling parameters are as follows: the color is black gray, 23 KG/piece, the milling time is 18 minutes, the width is 50CM, and the length after milling is 80CM/100 CM;
the shaking particle: putting the fulshed fabric into a polar fleece machine, adding a detergent and water with proper temperature, and carrying out polar fleece for five minutes at a specified time; by shaking the fabric, wrinkles of the fabric in the milling process can be removed, and individual fibers which are attached to the surface of the fabric but not fixed can be washed away; the requirements for the parameters of the shaken grains are as follows: the grain shaking time is 5 minutes; the detergent is a detergent.
As an optimization: the rolling softening agent comprises the following components: the water squeezing parameter requirements are as follows: the speed is 15 km/h.
As an optimization: the pre-setting: and (3) loading requirements: the gram weight and the width of the fabric under the condition of off-machine are realized by adjusting the on-machine overfeeding (upper overfeeding and lower overfeeding) and the width of the machine; the moisture content and the type of the fabric after shaping are realized by adjusting the temperature of the shaping machine, the speed of an air blower and the running speed of the machine; the setting and machining parameters are as follows: the running speed of the machine is 11.5 km/h; 118.3% of upper overfeed; 106.6 percent of lower overfeed; the width is 105 cm; the temperature was 160 ℃.
As an optimization: the pre-setting: the machine-off requirement is as follows: the lower overfeeding (upper overfeeding and lower overfeeding) of the machine is adjusted to prevent the fabric from skewing and the fabric from being in an upper arc or a lower arc; carving and weighing the fabric by using a carving disc, measuring the width of the fabric, and weighing the fabric; the machine parameters under the sizing are as follows: a grammage of 430 gsm; the width of the door is 103 cm; one piece weighs 21 kg.
As an optimization: the napping: the double-acting raising machine is adopted, a raising roller is respectively provided with a forward needle roller and a reverse needle roller which are arranged at intervals in sequence, wherein the forward needle roller has the same movement direction with the fabric and plays the role of raising the wool, the reverse needle roller has the opposite movement direction with the fabric and plays the role of raising the wool, and different raising and raising effects can be achieved by respectively adjusting the speed of the fabric or the speeds of the forward needle roller and the reverse needle roller; the front side is pulled 8 times, and the back side is pulled 6 times.
As an optimization: the bur carding: the bur raising machine mainly comprises burs, a doffing frame, a water tank, a tight cloth frame, a tension roller, a raising roller, a small guide roller, a dust suction device and an arc-shaped discharging plate, wherein the bur surface is formed by barbed hooks with the same direction, so the bur surface is regularly distributed on a big roller to form the raising roller, the raising effect can be generated by adjusting the contact surface of the fabric and the carding roller, a brush roller is arranged below the carding roller and is opposite to the running direction of the fabric and used for removing redundant fibers on the burs, and the fibers are removed by the dust suction device.
As an optimization: the shaping: the setting and machining parameters are as follows: the running speed of the machine is 11.5 km/h; upper overfeeding 116.3%; 105.6 percent of overfeeding; the width is 105 cm; the temperature is 160 ℃; the parameters of the sizing machine-off fabric are as follows: a grammage of 430 gsm; the width of the door is 103 cm; one piece weighs 21 kg.
As an optimization: shearing: because the selected fabric is double-sided smooth, double-sided shearing is needed, and the ironing and polishing treatment is matched, namely the ironing and polishing treatment is carried out once, the shearing is carried out once, and the process is repeated for three times.
As an optimization: the decating comprises the following steps: according to the stable setting property of the wool fibers under the condition of damp heat, the steaming effect of the decating is utilized to improve the hand feeling and the luster of the fabric; before decating, firstly discharging the lining cloth, paying attention to the tidiness of the lining cloth, then flatly placing the fabric in the lining cloth, winding one lining cloth in a decating roller, and allowing steam to enter the fabric through the lining cloth to perform decating operation; the decating parameters are required as follows: the cloth feeding tension is 800N, the increasing tension is 400N, the cloth discharging tension is 500N, the speed is 18km/h, and the time is 10 minutes.
As an optimization: the specification of the finished fabric is as follows: wool/lyocell with a loop length of 148 mm/50N; the transverse density is 78 longitudinal rows/10 cm; the density was 72 rows/10 cm.
Has the advantages that: the raw materials of the invention adopt 80% of wool protein fiber and 20% of wool for blending, the wool protein fiber integrates the advantages of natural wool fiber and regenerated cellulose fiber, has silk luster and velvet softness, the produced fabric has soft hand feeling like cashmere, excellent heat retention property, rich amino acid, good skin-friendly property, excellent moisture absorption and air permeability, good comfort, bright color, bright luster, and can be dyed by an acid one-bath method, the original performance is still kept after dyeing, the invention has excellent taking safety, can be naturally degraded, and meets the requirement of environmental protection.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic design drawing of the flower type of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a weave diagram of the present invention;
fig. 3 is a structural view of the shearing machine of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below so that those skilled in the art can better understand the advantages and features of the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention will be more clearly defined. The embodiments described herein are only a few embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments, and all other embodiments that can be derived by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive faculty based on the embodiments described herein are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.
Examples
The process flow of the invention is as follows: raw material selection → yarn dyeing → weaving → after finishing → finished product packaging.
1, selecting raw materials:
yarn count 1: 16Nm, roving (20% wool/80% lyocell);
yarn count 2: 40D nylon.
2, yarn dyeing:
the formula of the black dye solution comprises:
Figure BDA0002032474300000061
the dyeing process comprises the following steps: the temperature is 100 ℃, and the time is 30 min;
the formula of the gray dye solution comprises:
Figure BDA0002032474300000062
the dyeing process comprises the following steps: the temperature is 100 ℃, and the time is 30 min;
3, weaving of the fabric:
a computer double-sided, flat jacquard fabric was used.
The design intention is as follows:
the fabric is woven by a jacquard machine by adopting a design pattern of the plover lattice. The fabric is subjected to a double-sided wool smoothing post-finishing process, so that the two sides of the fabric can have a good suede effect. Adopts a simple organization process, and is simple and elegant. It is believed to be popular.
The weaving process comprises the following steps:
equipment selection: the loom specifications are presented in table 1.
TABLE 1 loom Specifications
Figure BDA0002032474300000071
The flower pattern artistic conception map is shown in figure 1; the weave pattern is shown in figure 2.
The triangle and pin row arrangement is shown in tables 2 and 3.
TABLE 2 triangle
Figure BDA0002032474300000072
4 after-finishing process
The method comprises the following steps: fulling, shaking, scutching, rolling a softening agent, presetting, napping, burling, carding, setting, ironing, shearing and decating.
4.1 fulling
(1) Rope-shaped milling cloth
The process is carried out by putting one side of the fabric into the inlet of the machine, then passing it in and out by rotating the machine, and then sewing it together end to end with a needle. The rope-shaped fulling machine is characterized in that the fabric is placed into the rope-shaped fulling machine, the fabric density can be well shrunk by adjusting the cloth feeding width, air pressure and time of the machine, the fabric becomes thick, the fluff of the fabric is covered on the surface of the fabric, and the effect of the fluff is achieved.
(2) Working principle of rope-shaped fulling machine
According to the specific directional friction effect of wool, namely according to the principle that the friction coefficient of the inverse scales on the wool is far larger than that of the forward scales on the wool, the directional friction effect taking the inverse scales as the main component is formed. Then the fabric is extruded and rubbed by repeated external force of the fulling machine to form the effects of continuous shrinkage, thickening and surface napping of the fabric.
(3) Preparation work
The method comprises the steps of firstly washing and drying the large-circle woven fabric in water, and then marking the fabric with a length of one meter at the position of about two meters from the beginning. In the fulling process, the original sample is compared with the fabric at regular time, and the shrinkage of the original sample is kept similar to that of the fabric. After the fulling is finished, recording the fabric, and recording the fulling time, the width after fulling and the length after fulling of the fabric by one-meter cloth mark so as to provide parameters for the subsequent sizing. In addition, the cleaning work of the fulling machine is required to be done before fulling.
(4) The felting requirements are shown in table 4.
TABLE 4 tweezing requirements
Figure BDA0002032474300000081
4.2 Shake
(1) Function of industrial washing machine
The fulling fabric is put into a polar fleece machine, added with detergent and water with proper temperature, and subjected to polar fleece for a specified time and five minutes. By means of the shaking of the fabric, wrinkles of the fabric in the milling process can be removed, and individual fibers which are attached to the surface of the fabric but not fixed can be washed away.
(2) The requirements for the granulation parameters are shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 Shake parameter requirements
Figure BDA0002032474300000082
4.3 scutching
Action of scutchers
Because the big circular loom is woven out of the circular rope-shaped fabric, the row needs to be scutched in order to facilitate subsequent processing such as shaping of the fabric, and the like, so that workers need to perform scutching work carefully.
4.4 roll softener
The parameter requirements are shown in table 6.
TABLE 6 Water squeezing parameter requirements
Figure BDA0002032474300000091
4.5 Pre-shaping
(1) Purpose of shaping
Because the wool fiber has good high-temperature shaping stability, the wool fiber is not easy to deform after high-temperature treatment and can be shaped. And the fabric is an important link foundation for meeting the requirements of customers on gram weight, breadth, fabric function (softness) and the like according to the requirements of the customers.
(2) Operational requirements of the machine
Operating machine requirement
The gram weight and the width of the fabric under the condition of off-machine are realized by adjusting the on-machine overfeeding (upper overfeeding and lower overfeeding) and the width of the machine.
The moisture content and the version of the fabric after shaping are realized by adjusting the temperature of the shaping machine, the speed of the air blower and the running speed of the machine.
The sizing and machining parameters are shown in table 7.
TABLE 7 finalized set-up parameters
Figure BDA0002032474300000092
② requirement for machine-off
The lower overfeeding (upper overfeeding and lower overfeeding) of the machine is adjusted to prevent the fabric from skewing and the fabric from being in an upper arc or a lower arc.
And (4) carving and weighing the fabric by using a carving disc, measuring the width of the fabric, and weighing the fabric.
The sizing discharge fabric parameters are shown in table 8.
TABLE 8 set-Up run-Down parameters
Figure BDA0002032474300000093
Figure BDA0002032474300000101
4.6 napping machine
Full-scale card clothing raising machines are divided into single-acting and double-acting raising machines. The device mainly comprises a dust washer, a tension roller, a brush roller, a wool feeding roller, a needle roller, a brush roller and a fluffing roller. A double action raising machine is used here.
(1) Working principle of double-acting raising machine
The raising roller is respectively provided with two needle rollers of a forward needle and a reverse needle which are arranged at intervals in sequence. Wherein the needle roller and the fabric move in the same direction, thereby playing a role of smoothing the wool. The reverse needle roller and the fabric move in opposite directions to play a role in napping. By respectively adjusting the speed of the fabric or the speed of the forward needle roller and the reverse needle roller, different forward wool and napping effects can be achieved.
(2) Napping
The galling requirement parameters are shown in table 9.
TABLE 9 napping requirement parameters
Figure BDA0002032474300000102
4.7 Burnet carding machine
Also known as a teasel raising machine. The novel wool making machine mainly comprises burs, a wool falling frame, a water tank, a tight wool frame, a tension roller, a fluffing roller, a small guide roller, a dust collection device and an arc-shaped scouring plate.
(1) Working principle of bur carding machine
The surface of the bur is formed by the bur hooks with the same direction, so the bur hooks are regularly distributed on the big roller to form the prior carding roller (namely the fluffing roller). By adjusting the contact surface of the shell fabric and the carding roller, a fluffing effect can be generated. And a brush roller is arranged below the carding roller, and the brush roller is opposite to the running direction of the fabric and is used for removing redundant fibers on the burs. The fibres are removed by a dust extraction device.
(2) Prickly ash combing
The parameters of the bur combing requirements are shown in table 10.
TABLE 10 Crataegus oxyacantha combing parameter requirements
Figure BDA0002032474300000111
4.8 shaping
The sizing and machining parameters are shown in table 11.
TABLE 11 finalized machining parameters
Figure BDA0002032474300000112
The sizing discharge fabric parameters are shown in table 12.
TABLE 12 sizing off-line fabric parameters
Figure BDA0002032474300000113
4.9 lustre finishing
(1) Action of single-roller twice natural luster finishing machine
The fabric after the ironing treatment has bright color and luster, the surface fluff is softer and more fluffy, and the fabric can play a better effect when being matched with a shearing machine.
The parameter requirements for the single roll two-pass natural luster finishing machine are shown in table 13.
TABLE 13 lustre parameter requirements
Figure BDA0002032474300000114
Figure BDA0002032474300000121
4.10 shearing
(1) Purpose of shearing wool
After napping and ironing, the pile needs to be trimmed to improve the smoothness of the fabric due to the difference in pile length on the fabric.
(2) The structure of the shearing machine is shown in the structure of the shearing machine in figure 3, which comprises 1-spiral knife, 2-flat knife, 3-bracket and 4-fabric.
(3) Shearing process
The shearing process of the fabric is different according to different styles and varieties. The fabric selected at this time needs double-sided shearing because of double-sided smoothing. The finishing treatment is matched, namely the finishing treatment is carried out once, the shearing is carried out once, and the process is repeated for three times.
(3) Matters of attention
In addition to the shearing process, which generally affects the shearing effect, there are shearing machines themselves. Mainly whether the options of a hair cutter, a trailing cutter and sharpening are reasonable or not.
Generally, the fluff has a fixed direction, so if the fluff is sheared in the forward direction, the fiber is bunched and has ripples. Reverse shearing can make the fabric level and smooth.
(5) Shearing hair
The shearing parameters are shown in table 14.
TABLE 14 shearing parameters
Figure BDA0002032474300000131
4.11 decating
(1) Purpose of decating
According to the stable setting property of the wool fibers under the condition of damp heat, the steaming effect of the decating is utilized to improve the hand feeling and the luster of the fabric. Before decating, the lining cloth is firstly discharged, then the fabric is flatly placed in the lining cloth, and one lining cloth is wound in a decating roller. Steam enters the fabric through the lining cloth to perform decating operation.
(2) Factors affecting the fabric
As the decating time and pressure increase, the stability of the fabric will be better. However, if the time is too long or the pressure is too high, the texture of the fabric fibers is damaged, with irreversible consequences. In addition, because the wool fabric is protein fiber, the decating temperature is not easy to be too high. Before decating, the neatness of the lining cloth is also required to be noticed so as to prevent color cross.
3 decating requirements are shown in Table 15.
TABLE 15 decating parameter requirements
Figure BDA0002032474300000132
5 finished fabric specification
The fabric specifications are shown in table 16.
TABLE 16 Fabric parameters
Figure BDA0002032474300000133
The raw materials of the invention adopt 80% of wool protein fiber and 20% of wool for blending, the wool protein fiber integrates the advantages of natural wool fiber and regenerated cellulose fiber, has silk luster and velvet softness, the produced fabric has soft hand feeling like cashmere, excellent heat retention property, rich amino acid, good skin-friendly property, excellent moisture absorption and air permeability, good comfort, bright color, bright luster, and can be dyed by an acid one-bath method, the original performance is still kept after dyeing, the invention has excellent taking safety, can be naturally degraded, and meets the requirement of environmental protection.

Claims (1)

1. A processing method of a knitted jacquard woolen fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:
raw material selection → yarn dyeing → weaving → after finishing → finished product packaging;
1, selecting raw materials:
yarn count 1: 16Nm, roving: 20% wool/80% lyocell;
yarn count 2: 40D chinlon;
2, yarn dyeing:
the formula of the black dye solution comprises:
Figure FDA0003132793100000011
the dyeing process comprises the following steps: the temperature is 100 ℃, and the time is 30 min;
the formula of the gray dye solution comprises:
Figure FDA0003132793100000012
the dyeing process comprises the following steps: the temperature is 100 ℃, and the time is 30 min;
3, weaving of the fabric:
the computer double-sided wool-smoothing jacquard fabric is used, the design pattern of the plover lattice is adopted, the jacquard is used for weaving the fabric, and the fabric is subjected to the double-sided wool-smoothing post-finishing process, so that the two sides of the fabric can have good suede effect;
4, after-finishing process: the method comprises the following steps: fulling, swinging, scutching, rolling a softening agent, presetting, napping, burling, shaping, ironing, shearing and decating;
the milling is as follows: the method is characterized in that the rope-shaped fulling is adopted, one side of the fabric is firstly placed into an inlet of a machine, then the fabric is fed in and out by rotating the machine, and then the fabric is sewn together by using needle threads from head to tail;
the preparation work is as follows: firstly, washing and drying a fabric woven by a large circular loom in water, then marking a mark with the length of one meter at the position of two meters at the beginning of the fabric, comparing a sample with the fabric at regular time in a milling process, keeping the milling rate of the sample similar to that of the fabric, recording the fabric after milling, recording the milling time of the fabric, the width of the milled fabric and the milling length of the mark of one meter of fabric to provide parameters for later sizing, and in addition, cleaning the milling machine before milling;
the requirements of the fulling parameters are as follows: the color is black gray, 23 KG/piece, the milling time is 18 minutes, the width is 50CM, and the length after milling is 80CM/100 CM;
the shaking particle: putting the fulshed fabric into a polar fleece machine, adding a detergent and water with proper temperature, and carrying out polar fleece for five minutes at a specified time; by shaking the fabric, wrinkles of the fabric in the milling process can be removed, and individual fibers which are attached to the surface of the fabric but not fixed can be washed away; the requirements for the parameters of the shaken grains are as follows: the grain shaking time is 5 minutes; the using agent is a detergent;
the rolling softening agent comprises the following components: the water squeezing parameter requirements are as follows: the speed is 15 km/h;
the pre-setting: and (3) loading requirements: the gram weight and the width of the fabric are realized by adjusting the on-machine overfeeding and the width of the machine when the fabric is off the machine; the moisture content and the type of the fabric after shaping are realized by adjusting the temperature of the shaping machine, the speed of an air blower and the running speed of the machine; the setting and machining parameters are as follows: the running speed of the machine is 11.5 km/h; 118.3% of upper overfeed; 106.6 percent of lower overfeed; the width is 105 cm; the temperature is 160 ℃;
the pre-setting: the machine-off requirement is as follows: the lower overfeeding of the machine is adjusted to prevent the fabric from skewing and the upper arc or the lower arc of the fabric; carving and weighing the fabric by using a carving disc, measuring the width of the fabric, and weighing the fabric; the machine parameters under the sizing are as follows: a grammage of 430 gsm; the width of the door is 103 cm; one piece of the cotton is 21 kg;
the napping: the double-acting raising machine is adopted, a raising roller is respectively provided with a forward needle roller and a reverse needle roller which are arranged at intervals in sequence, wherein the forward needle roller has the same movement direction with the fabric and plays the role of raising the wool, the reverse needle roller has the opposite movement direction with the fabric and plays the role of raising the wool, and different raising and raising effects can be achieved by respectively adjusting the speed of the fabric or the speeds of the forward needle roller and the reverse needle roller; pulling the front side 8 times and the back side 6 times;
the bur carding: the bur raising machine mainly comprises burs, a doffing frame, a water tank, a tight cloth frame, a tension roller, a raising roller, a small guide roller, a dust suction device and an arc-shaped discharging plate, wherein the bur surface is formed by bur hooks with the same direction, so the bur surfaces are regularly distributed on a big roller to form the raising roller;
the shaping: the setting and machining parameters are as follows: the running speed of the machine is 11.5 km/h; upper overfeeding 116.3%; 105.6 percent of overfeeding; the width is 105 cm; the temperature is 160 ℃; the parameters of the sizing machine-off fabric are as follows: a grammage of 430 gsm; the width of the door is 103 cm; one piece of the cotton is 21 kg;
shearing: because the selected fabric is double-sided smooth, double-sided shearing is needed, and the ironing and polishing treatment is matched, namely the ironing and polishing treatment is carried out once, the shearing is carried out once, and the process is repeated for three times;
the decating comprises the following steps: according to the stable setting property of the wool fibers under the condition of damp heat, the steaming effect of the decating is utilized to improve the hand feeling and the luster of the fabric; before decating, firstly discharging the lining cloth, paying attention to the tidiness of the lining cloth, then flatly placing the fabric in the lining cloth, winding one lining cloth in a decating roller, and allowing steam to enter the fabric through the lining cloth to perform decating operation; the decating parameters are required as follows: the cloth feeding tension is 800N, the increasing tension is 400N, the cloth discharging tension is 500N, the speed is 18km/h, and the time is 10 minutes;
the specification of the finished fabric is as follows: wool/lyocell with a loop length of 148 mm/50N; the transverse density is 78 longitudinal rows/10 cm; the density was 72 rows/10 cm.
CN201910313991.1A 2019-04-18 2019-04-18 Processing method of novel knitted jacquard over-wool fabric Active CN110055668B (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201910313991.1A CN110055668B (en) 2019-04-18 2019-04-18 Processing method of novel knitted jacquard over-wool fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201910313991.1A CN110055668B (en) 2019-04-18 2019-04-18 Processing method of novel knitted jacquard over-wool fabric

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN110055668A CN110055668A (en) 2019-07-26
CN110055668B true CN110055668B (en) 2021-08-24

Family

ID=67319439

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CN201910313991.1A Active CN110055668B (en) 2019-04-18 2019-04-18 Processing method of novel knitted jacquard over-wool fabric

Country Status (1)

Country Link
CN (1) CN110055668B (en)

Families Citing this family (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110791857A (en) * 2019-10-15 2020-02-14 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 Production process of jacquard color point woolen cloth
CN110863282B (en) * 2019-10-16 2021-03-02 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 Preparation process of ring-shaped vertical stripe overcoat woolen cloth
CN111793970A (en) * 2020-05-27 2020-10-20 江苏烨天羊绒科技有限公司 Sizing finishing process of over-wool fabric
CN112746420A (en) * 2020-12-04 2021-05-04 湖北际华针织有限公司 Anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling 4-level dyeing and finishing process for double-sided cloth of knitted polyester cotton interlayer
CN113279111B (en) * 2021-04-26 2022-08-19 杭州新天元织造有限公司 Double-sided special-shaped colored spun fabric and production method thereof
CN114411314B (en) * 2021-11-29 2024-01-23 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 Flannelette imitation woolen high-texture fabric and preparation method thereof

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US9027366B2 (en) * 2010-01-07 2015-05-12 Alida Cathleen Raynor System and method for forming a design from a flexible filament having indicators
CN102851845B (en) * 2012-06-14 2014-10-29 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 High-count smooth double-faced wool and production process thereof
CN106192132B (en) * 2016-09-28 2017-11-17 阜新新溢达毛纺织有限公司 A kind of half spinning double-side different color is along hair ripple and its production technology
CN107190403A (en) * 2017-07-26 2017-09-22 江苏工程职业技术学院 A kind of processing method of imitative etching knitting
CN108286104A (en) * 2018-03-19 2018-07-17 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 A kind of two-sided production technology of blended suitable hair of wool/alpaca fibre/Persian synthetic fibre
CN109183261B (en) * 2018-09-19 2021-03-19 利郎(中国)有限公司 Preparation process of novel air layer woolen fabric with high heat preservation performance
CN109338577B (en) * 2018-12-21 2020-09-15 新泰市华美毛纺织有限公司 Production process of knitted jacquard woolen cloth

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN110055668A (en) 2019-07-26

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
CN110055668B (en) Processing method of novel knitted jacquard over-wool fabric
CN104178872B (en) A kind of slubbing height frivolous suitable hair fancy suiting and production technology
CN103998662B (en) Stretchable and dimensionally stable the Woven fabric being made up of the covering yarn based on PTT
CN104131408B (en) A kind of containing cotton warp-knitted face fabric and processing method thereof
CN106012261B (en) Close SEILE textile air-conditioning/modal fiber blended knitting fabric and production method
CN1026346C (en) Process for making preshrunk size-free denim
TW201920789A (en) Anti-pilling cloth and method for manufacturing same
CN105780257A (en) Method for weaving high-count and high-density home textile fabric and method for aftertreatment thereof
CN201952580U (en) Tencel and polyvinyl acetate (PVA) blended light silk-like fabric
CN111719217A (en) Jean fabric with coral fleece handfeel and production method thereof
CN102758307A (en) Natural silk cotton Raschel blanket and preparation method thereof
CN103132196A (en) Bedding fabric with antibacterial and cool functions and post-finishing process thereof
CN109667038A (en) A kind of cuprammonium dacron and its production method
CN110435250B (en) Wool knitted shorn sheepskin-like fabric and production process thereof
CN105442147B (en) A kind of preparation method of uvioresistant far infrared ecological fabrics
CN110409030B (en) Production and application of TT yarn based on semi-worsted yarn as decorative yarn
CN103849980A (en) Cotton, viscose and linen rotor spinning fabric manufacturing method
CN206654602U (en) A kind of seamless garments layout machine cloth-pressing device
CN203128767U (en) Tencel wool bedding fabric
CN109943952A (en) Wei Lefute-nitrile glues the preparation method that color knits thermal fabric
CN106498726A (en) The technique of warming-type woolen fabric
CN110396747B (en) Production method and application of full-wool camel hair as loop yarn
CN108754819A (en) A kind of preparation method of high-elastic skin softening knitting fabric
CN108754666A (en) A kind of preparation method of high-elastic skin softening knitting fabric
CN107881627A (en) A kind of production method of thermal fabric

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PB01 Publication
PB01 Publication
SE01 Entry into force of request for substantive examination
SE01 Entry into force of request for substantive examination
GR01 Patent grant
GR01 Patent grant