CN111719217A - Jean fabric with coral fleece handfeel and production method thereof - Google Patents

Jean fabric with coral fleece handfeel and production method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111719217A
CN111719217A CN202010574765.1A CN202010574765A CN111719217A CN 111719217 A CN111719217 A CN 111719217A CN 202010574765 A CN202010574765 A CN 202010574765A CN 111719217 A CN111719217 A CN 111719217A
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yarn
fiber
fabric
speed
fibers
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CN111719217B (en
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王宗文
周冰倩
柯文博
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Advance Denim Co ltd
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Advance Denim Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C13/00Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C15/00Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
    • D06C15/02Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics between co-operating press or calender rolls
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C21/00Shrinking by compressing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C9/00Singeing
    • D06C9/02Singeing by flame
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24Viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/10Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides a coral velvet hand-feeling jean fabric and a production method thereof, wherein one side or two sides of the coral velvet hand-feeling jean fabric are subjected to hair grabbing treatment to form a velvet surface, and warp yarns or weft yarns of the coral velvet hand-feeling jean fabric are made of warm-keeping core-spun yarns; the warm-keeping core-spun yarn comprises a middle-layer short fiber yarn 2 and an outer-layer chemical fiber filament 1; the chemical fiber filament is spirally coated on the short fiber yarn; the short fiber yarn is yarn formed by twisting two fibers including cotton fiber and honeycomb polyester fiber. By adopting the warm-keeping core-spun yarn with the short fiber yarn as the middle layer and the chemical fiber filament as the outer layer, the jean fabric with the coral fleece hand feeling is good in fleece feeling and strong in cloth surface texture and road feeling after being napped, so that the warm-keeping effect can be ensured, and the requirement of fashion can be met.

Description

Jean fabric with coral fleece handfeel and production method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of textiles, and mainly relates to a jean fabric with coral fleece handfeel and a production method thereof.
Background
Along with the development of economy and the improvement of the living standard of people, more and more people have higher requirements on the functionality, comfort, fashion and the like of the clothes, for example, in hot summer, people are easy to generate a large amount of sweat due to heat, and hope that the clothes can have the functions of moisture absorption and sweat releasing; in cold winter, it is desirable to wear garments that are comfortable to keep warm but are not bulky.
There are some fabrics on the market that are napped on their underside, which fabrics improve the warmth retention of the fabric. Some of these fabrics are made with pile by a combination technique in which the bottom layer of the face fabric is bonded to a pile material by gluing. However, the raised fabric obtained by the composite technology has the advantages of relatively hard hand feeling, uncomfortable wearing and poor air permeability.
Before the application date, the composite-imitated double-layer fabric is characterized in that yarns with different elasticity are used as weft yarns to enable the weft yarns on the bottom surface of the fabric to be floated and long, the weft yarns on the bottom surface of the fabric are made of chemical fiber filaments, and the bottom surface of the fabric is napped through napping treatment, so that the warm-keeping effect of the fabric is achieved. However, the fabric with the double-layer weave structure has the advantages of increased weft density, low production efficiency, high cost and unsuitability for sustainable development.
And the weft adopts chemical fiber filaments, and the bottom surface of the fabric is napped by directly carrying out fabric napping treatment, but the fabric has short napping, the surface of the fabric is not stiff enough, and the weft-wise strength of the fabric after napping is low. Particularly for the elastic fabric, the weft adopts chemical fiber filaments to coat the elastic yarns, the elastic yarns are easily damaged in the wool grabbing process, and the elastic fabric is easily subjected to the phenomenon of losing elasticity or slipping elasticity when the fabric is subjected to a physical or chemical washing method.
In the above several kinds of warm-keeping fabrics, the weft yarn can be selected from filament, core-spun yarn of filament-covered stretch yarn, core-spun yarn of staple-covered stretch yarn, or core-spun yarn of staple-covered filament-covered stretch yarn. Because the filament is composed of the monofilament with superfine denier and ultrahigh F number and has certain elasticity, the thermal fabric adopting the filament or the covering yarn of the filament covered with the stretch yarn as the weft yarn has the velvet feeling and the elasticity superior to those of the latter two, but the filament has the defects of being too soft and without skeleton feeling, and the woven fabric has weak grain feeling and does not meet the requirement of fashion. The outer layers of the core-spun yarn of the elastic yarn covered by the short fibers and the core-spun yarn of the elastic yarn covered by the long fibers are both the short fibers, the short fibers and the long fibers have good stiff skeleton feeling, but the short fibers are not easy to fluff and have lower strength than the long fibers, so the core-spun yarn is not good in fluff feeling and is not suitable for manufacturing the thermal fabric.
According to the existing technologies for manufacturing the thermal fabric, the manufactured fabric is soft and thermal but has no bone feeling, the texture of the fabric surface is not too strong, and the requirements of consumers on the functionality, comfort and fashion of clothes cannot be met.
Accordingly, the prior art is yet to be improved and developed.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a jean fabric with coral fleece handfeel and a production method thereof, and aims to solve the problems that the existing single-layer imitation composite fabric is poor in heat retention and cloth cover texture.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
the coral velvet-feeling jean fabric is characterized in that one side or two sides of the coral velvet-feeling jean fabric are subjected to hair grabbing treatment to form a plush surface, and warp yarns or weft yarns of the coral velvet-feeling jean fabric are made of warm-keeping core-spun yarns;
the warm-keeping core-spun yarn comprises an inner layer of short fiber yarn and an outer layer of chemical fiber filament; the chemical fiber filament is spirally coated on the short fiber yarn; the short fiber yarn is yarn comprising cotton fiber and honeycomb polyester fiber.
The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel is characterized in that the short fiber yarn is core spun yarn, the short fiber yarn further comprises stretch yarn, and the stretch yarn is spirally coated with five fibers, namely cotton fiber, honeycomb polyester fiber, bulk acrylic fiber, tencel fiber and soluble vinylon, which are twisted into a strip shape; the chemical fiber filament is coated on the short fiber yarn; the yarn twisting direction of the short fiber yarn is opposite to the coating direction of the chemical fiber filament.
The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel is characterized in that the short fiber yarn is formed by twisting five fibers, namely cotton fiber, honeycomb polyester fiber, bulked acrylic fiber, tencel fiber and soluble vinylon, into strip-shaped yarn; the short fiber yarn consists of five short fibers, and comprises, by weight, 30-40 parts of cotton fibers, 30-40 parts of honeycomb polyester fibers, 10-20 parts of bulked acrylic fibers, 10-20 parts of tencel fibers and 10-15 parts of soluble vinylon fibers.
The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel is characterized in that the short fiber yarn is a core spun yarn, and the short fiber yarn further comprises stretch yarns; five fibers, namely cotton fiber, honeycomb polyester fiber, bulked acrylic fiber, tencel fiber and soluble vinylon, are twisted into strips and spirally coated on the elastic yarn, the short fiber yarn is coated on the elastic yarn, and the chemical fiber filament yarn is coated on the short fiber yarn; the yarn twisting direction of the staple fiber yarn is opposite to the coating direction of the chemical fiber filaments.
The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel is characterized in that the short fiber yarn further comprises one or more than two of tencel fibers, modal fibers or viscose fibers.
The denim fabric with the coral fleece handfeel is characterized in that the denier of the chemical fiber filament is 100D-500D, and the F number is 50-900; the chemical fiber filament is functional warm-keeping filament fiber or sea-island type composite fiber.
The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel is characterized in that the twist number TM value of the short fiber yarn is 3.8-4.8, and the yarn count range is 8S-50S.
The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel is obtained by washing the jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel, and gaps are formed in the short fiber yarns after the soluble vinylon is dissolved.
The production method of the jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel comprises the steps of spinning, weaving and after-finishing;
wherein the spinning process comprises the following steps:
a premixing step: before the blowing process, mixing cotton fiber, honeycomb terylene, tencel, bulk acrylic fiber and soluble vinylon to uniformly mix a plurality of fibers;
a blowing procedure: the premixed fibers are processed for the second time in the blowing circular table, the fiber is to be grabbed, the descending speed of a beater of a plucker is 3mm each time, the rotating speed is 950r/min, the speed of a rotary trolley is 2.6r/min, a blade extends out of a rib for 3mm, the beater speed is 780r/min, the fan speed is 940r/min, the distance between the beater and a balance roller is 10mm, the distance between a dust rod and a dust rod is 11mm (the effect of beating less and more combs is realized by adjusting the distance between the dust rods), the speed of a lap roller is 12r/min, and the dry weight ration of a lap is 350 g/m;
cotton carding process: the spacing between the cylinder and the licker-in is 12 inches, the spacing between the cylinder and the doffer is 5 inches, the speed of the cylinder is 290r/min, the speed of the licker-in is 595r/min, the speed of the doffer is 15.8r/min, the speed of the cover plate is 186mm/min, and the dry basis weight of cotton carding is 18.5g/5 m;
drawing: after 4 times of combination, 8 fibers are combined together, the roller gauge is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 7.58 times, and the back zone drafting is 1.68 times; combining 6 secondary combined yarns, wherein the dry weight ration is 16.4g/5m, the roller gauge is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.36 times, and the back zone drafting is 1.46 times; combining 6 combined yarns, wherein the dry weight is 15.8g/5m, the gauge of a roller is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.23 times, the drafting in a rear zone is 1.36 times, combining 6 combined yarns, the dry weight is 15g/5m, the gauge of the roller is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.23 times, and the drafting in the rear zone is 1.25 times;
roving: the twist of the roving is 4.2 twists/10 cm, the back zone drafting is 1.2 times, the jaw spacing is 6.3mm, the dry weight ration of the roving is 3.85g/10m, and the mechanical drafting is 8.2 times;
spinning: the siro spinning method is adopted, two rovings are placed on a suspended spindle, the prepared rovings are fed in parallel, the rovings are fed through a bell mouth, a rear roller, a middle roller and a front roller, an overhead frame is additionally arranged above a spinning frame, an elastic yarn is placed, the elastic yarn is axially and actively unwound, a yarn guide wheel is introduced through a tension regulator, the elastic yarn is fed into a jaw of the front roller through a yarn guide device, the elastic yarn is coated by short fibers, the distance between the bell mouths of two eyes is 4-5mm, the back zone drafting is 1.12, the mechanical drafting is 27.8, the twist is 72 twists/10 cm, the model PG1-42 for a steel wire collar and the model W32130 # for a steel wire ring;
chemical fiber filament coating process: the yarn is coated with chemical fiber filaments in the reverse direction, and the twist of the chemical fiber filament coating is 800-;
the weaving process comprises the following steps:
the speed of the vehicle is 450-DEG, the opening time is 305-312 DEG, the height of the back beam is 8-12mm, the depth of the back beam is 5-10mm, the tension is 3-4KN, the ground tissue drafting is 3, 4, 5, 6, the side tissue drafting is 1, 2, the ground tissue drafting and the side tissue drafting are 4, the side tissue adopts 2/2 warp re-flattening, and the upper-English weft density is 55-70.
The after-finishing process comprises the following steps:
singeing: when in singeing, the flame temperature is controlled at 800 ℃, the singeing speed is 70m/min, and the singeing times are two positive singes and one negative singes, namely, the front singes twice and the back singes once.
Desizing: the speed of the desizing machine is 65m/min, the concentration of desizing enzyme is 8g/L, the penetrant is 5g/L, the temperature of a pulp rolling tank is 70 ℃, the temperature of a washing tank is 60 ℃, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 110 ℃, the pressure of a padder is 0.2MPa, and the cropping humidity is controlled to be 5%.
Loose wash water: setting the temperature to 80 ℃ on an overflow machine, and treating for 80 min;
washing with water: washing the processed fabric with water, adding a cleaning agent into a machine with the concentration of 4g/L, and processing for 20 min;
hydrophilic treatment: hydrophilic soft oil is adopted for treatment, the hydrophilic soft oil is mixed with water for use, and the required hydrophilic soft oil is 20g/L-50 g/L;
shaping: the temperature of the setting machine is 160 ℃, the speed is 45m/min, and the padder pressure is 30N/mm;
plucking: the hair-catching conditions are as follows: the speed of the vehicle is 6-14 m/min, the tension is 0.5-2.0%, and the rotating speed of the cylinder is 60-100 r/min;
the conditions for scalding the hair are as follows: reverse-texturing the cloth, wherein the speed is 10-18 m/min, the temperature is 170-185 ℃, and the tension is 0.9-1.6%; the forward rotating speed of the No. 1 ironing roller is 650-720 r/min, and the forward rotating speed of the No. 2 ironing roller is 720-820 r/min;
the shearing conditions are as follows: the speed is 10-20m/min, the tension is 0.8-1.8%, and the forward rotation speed of the circular knife is 700-;
pre-shrinking: the vehicle speed is 35m/min, the rubber blanket pressure is 16%, the rubber blanket temperature is 135 ℃, and the blanket drying cylinder temperature is 135 ℃.
Has the advantages that: the invention provides a coral fleece denim fabric and a production method thereof, and the coral fleece denim fabric with the hand feeling is good in fleece feeling and strong in cloth surface texture after being plucked by adopting the warm-keeping covering yarn taking the short fiber yarn as the inner layer and the chemical fiber filament yarn as the outer layer, so that the warm-keeping effect can be ensured, and the requirement on fashion can be met.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic structural view of the warm core-spun yarn of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The invention provides a jean fabric with coral fleece handfeel and a production method thereof, and the invention is further described in detail below in order to make the purpose, technical scheme and effect of the invention clearer and more clear. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention.
The invention also provides the jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel, which is warm-keeping and comfortable, and has clear and fashionable cloth texture, specifically, one side or two sides of the jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel are subjected to napping treatment to form a napped surface, and warp yarns or weft yarns of the jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel adopt warm-keeping core-spun yarns;
as shown in fig. 1, the thermal core-spun yarn comprises a middle layer staple fiber yarn 2 and an outer layer chemical fiber filament 1; the chemical fiber filament is spirally coated on the short fiber yarn; the short fiber yarn is yarn formed by twisting two fibers including cotton fiber and honeycomb polyester fiber.
The structure of the warm-keeping core-spun yarn is characterized in that the outer layer is made of the chemical fiber filaments capable of raising, the middle layer is made of the short fiber yarns with stiff bone feeling, the chemical fiber filaments with raised outer layer contact the sanding process in the raising process can not cause abrasion to the short fiber yarns in the middle layer, the advantages of the chemical fiber filaments, which are easier to raise and the stiff skeleton feeling of the short fiber yarns are integrated, the appearance of the raised fabric made of the warm-keeping core-spun yarn is warm, the cloth surface lines are clear, and the style is retro.
The chemical fiber filament is preferably ultra-fine denier high-F number filament (100D-500D, F number is 50-900), or is preferably functional thermal filament fiber (such as polyimide thermal fiber produced by Changchun Gaokazai, special-shaped hollow polyester thermal fiber produced by Taicang Shahui, thermal storage polyacrylonitrile thermal fiber produced by Jilin Qifeng), sea-island composite fiber, and other super thermal filament.
An island-in-sea type composite fiber is formed by embedding one polymer in a very fine form (fibrils) in the other polymer (matrix), and is called an island-in-sea fiber because the dispersed phase fibrils are distributed in the form of islands in the cross section of the fiber. The composite fiber is obtained by compounding or blending and spinning two thermodynamically incompatible high polymers according to a certain proportion, wherein one component is a disperse phase (island component) and the other component is a continuous phase (sea component). The sea-island fiber has the characteristics that the aim of raising can be achieved by peeling with alkali by utilizing the sea-island structure of the sea-island filament (the chemical fiber filament can be raised through alkaline treatment or a hair-catching process), and a coral-like pile-feeling-like fabric with fine and smooth surface pile feeling and comfortable touch feeling can be developed; when combined with other fibers, conventional products can be developed, but their appearance is different from conventional products.
The short fiber yarn is yarn formed by twisting two fibers including cotton and honeycomb terylene. Because the cotton fiber is natural fiber, the fabric has the characteristic of skin-friendly softness, and meanwhile, the honeycomb terylene is softer than the common terylene, and the fabric can effectively improve the skeleton feeling and bring comfortable hand feeling when the fabric has the skeleton feeling through the combination of the cotton fiber and the common terylene. In the prior art, staple fiber is defined as cotton staple fibers having a length of 25-38mm, staple fibers of chemical filaments having a length of several centimeters or ten-odd centimeters.
The honeycomb polyester is a fiber with a porous surface and a honeycomb-shaped cross section, sweat on the body of a wearer can be quickly drained in hot days, and air can be stored in cold days to achieve the function of keeping warm. The cellular polyester is preferably cellular polyester with porous irregular cross section, and has better moisture absorption, sweat releasing and warm keeping effects. Because the porous materials have different functions in different environments, when the temperature of the part between the clothes and the skin is higher, if the heat of the part cannot be timely discharged out of the body, people feel uncomfortable, and the heat of the part can be discharged out of the body through the honeycomb terylene at the middle layer, so that the comfortable level of the human body can be maintained.
The staple fiber yarn may further include one or more than two of tencel fiber, modal fiber or viscose fiber. The middle layer short fiber yarn can adopt cotton and honeycomb terylene blended yarn, or cotton and honeycomb terylene blended yarn with one or more of tencel, modal and viscose. Because the hygroscopicity of cotton, tencel, modal and viscose fibers is good, and the honeycomb polyester is a porous polyester, the fabric can absorb moisture and ventilate and has a warm-keeping effect. Because cotton fiber, tencel, modal, viscose fiber have good hygroscopicity, and the porous structure of the honeycomb dacron has the moisture absorption and ventilation and can store static air at the same time, the fabric is favorable for the warm-keeping effect and the comfort is improved.
Furthermore, the short fiber yarn comprises a strip-shaped yarn formed by twisting five fibers, namely cotton fiber, honeycomb polyester fiber, bulk acrylic fiber, tencel fiber and soluble vinylon. Preferably, the staple fiber yarn comprises five staple fibers, by weight, 30-40 parts of cotton fibers, 30-40 parts of honeycomb polyester fibers, 10-20 parts of bulked acrylic fibers, 10-20 parts of tencel fibers and 10-15 parts of soluble vinylon fibers.
The bulk acrylic fiber is adopted because the acrylic fiber has the characteristic of heating, and simultaneously has the fluffy effect, so the heat preservation effect of the fabric is better, and simultaneously, the strength of the acrylic fiber is high, and the strength of the yarn can be enhanced. The tencel fiber has high strength and smooth surface, and after being blended into yarns, the tencel fiber is made into a fabric with good hand feeling, and simultaneously, the tencel fiber can be fibrillated under the condition of higher temperature, so that the fiber surface can be napped, and the hand feeling and the heat preservation effect of the fabric are improved. After the denim fabric with the coral fleece handfeel is subjected to after-finishing, the soluble vinylon can be dissolved after the after-finishing, and therefore gaps can be formed in the short fiber yarns. Because the short fiber yarn has a gap structure and the cellular terylene is the fiber with a cellular surface porous section, the yarn can effectively store static air and hinder the transmission of heat to a certain extent. After the soluble vinylon is dissolved, compared with the insoluble fiber adopted in the same specification, the soluble yarn is adopted to make the fabric fluffy; meanwhile, the bulk acrylic fiber has the crimp like wool, which also causes the fabric to have the effect of increasing the bulkiness.
Further, the higher the twist of the middle layer short fiber yarn 2, the higher the hardness of the yarn, the stronger the texture of the cloth surface, and the more bone feeling the fabric. The twist of middle level short-staple yarn 2 can influence the feel and the line sense of surface fabric, if the twist value undersize, the fibre is embraced with inseparable in the yarn, and the yarn is too fluffy, can make surface fabric line feel not strong, if the twist value is too high, the fibre is embraced with too inseparable in the yarn, and the fibre distortion condition is serious, can make the surface fabric feel uncomfortable, also extrudees the hole structure simultaneously and can cause certain influence to the moisture absorption of surface fabric, cold-proof function. Therefore, the twist TM value of the middle staple fiber yarn 2 in the present invention is preferably 3.8 to 4.8.
Further, the short fiber yarn is a covering yarn, and the short fiber yarn also comprises an inner layer stretch yarn 3; five fibers, namely cotton fiber, honeycomb polyester fiber, bulked acrylic fiber, tencel fiber and soluble vinylon, are twisted into strips and spirally coated on the elastic yarn, the short fiber yarn is coated on the elastic yarn, and the chemical fiber filament yarn is coated on the short fiber yarn; the yarn twisting direction of the staple fiber yarn is opposite to the coating direction of the chemical fiber filaments. By adding the stretch yarn, the jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel has elasticity, and the comfort of the fabric is improved.
The yarn count of the short fiber yarn can be 8S-50S. The larger the yarn count is, the lower the strength of the yarn is, and the twisting degree setting and the yarn count specification are improved, so that the fabric has a certain stiffening effect after the wool grabbing treatment. The twist of the short fiber yarn is preferably 3.8-4.8, because when the twist of the yarn is improved, the fibers are tightly held, although the strength of the yarn is improved, the fluffy effect of the yarn is poor due to overhigh twist, the warming, moisture absorption and sweat release effects of the yarn are weakened, and the warming, moisture absorption and sweat release performances and the stiffening effect of the fabric are comprehensively considered.
In addition, the yarns in the middle layer not only provide the function of supporting the fabric, but also provide high breaking strength, so that the fabric is not easy to pull open during transverse stretching, the fabric is effectively prevented from not keeping warm after being stretched, and the function of keeping warm is increased to a certain extent. The middle layer short fiber yarn 2 can provide strength, and when the warm-keeping core-spun yarn is used as weft, the weft strength of the fabric after hair catching can meet the requirement. Meanwhile, the composite yarn composed of the outer layer, the middle layer and the inner layer has certain strength and torsion resistance after twisting, so that the warm-keeping core-spun yarn can play a role of supporting the fabric after the fabric is napped, the effect that the fabric of a napping product is not stiff can be effectively achieved, and meanwhile, the stretch yarn of the core layer can be protected from being damaged, so that the fabric cannot have the risk of losing elasticity or slipping elasticity.
According to the coral fleece denim fabric with the hand feeling, the chemical fiber filaments capable of being napped are adopted in the outer layer, the short fiber yarns with stiff bone feeling are adopted in the middle layer, and the chemical fiber filaments napped in the outer layer are in contact with the napping process, so that the short fiber yarns in the middle layer are not abraded, the advantages of easiness in napping of the chemical fiber filaments and stiff skeleton feeling of the short fiber yarns are integrated, the coral fleece denim fabric is good in heat-insulating effect, clear in cloth surface lines and retro in style. Because the outer layer adopts the chemical fiber filament, the fabric surface has fine and smooth velvet feeling and comfortable touch feeling, thereby achieving the warm-keeping effect, having comfortable warm-keeping touch feeling close to the skin and being comparable to coral velvet fabric. The plush density can be improved to the maximum extent without worrying about the influence of the wool grabbing on the yarn strength, so that the high heat preservation rate can be kept when the fluff of the fabric is short, the fabric is relatively light and thin, and the fleece is not bloated when being worn by people. The middle layer short fiber yarn 2 and the inner layer stretch yarn are not damaged by the plucking, so the strength of the warm-keeping core-spun yarn is not damaged; when the fabric is stretched, the middle layer short fiber yarn 2 can still provide strength, and ventilation caused by excessive stretching of the fabric is limited to a certain extent, so that the heat preservation effect of the fabric is further ensured.
The stretch yarn, the short fiber and the chemical fiber filament yarn are all commercially available products, and the jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel can also be prepared by adopting conventional spinning, weaving and after-finishing methods.
However, in the production process, combined with the production experience of many years, the invention also provides an optimized production method of the jean fabric with coral fleece handfeel, which comprises spinning, weaving and after-finishing.
The spinning process is to mix and process short fibers forming the short fiber yarn into roving; the core-spun technology is adopted on a spinning machine, so that the short fiber roving is wrapped with the stretch yarn and twisted into core-spun yarn; and then, coating the warm-keeping covering yarn by using chemical fiber filaments, wherein the twisting direction is opposite to the twisting direction of the covering yarn, so that the warm-keeping covering yarn is obtained.
Therefore, the selection of the yarn has requirements on the cotton fiber, and the long stapled cotton is preferably selected, so that the maturity is good, and the breaking strength of the cotton fiber is high. Since the cellular polyester is a porous structure and the strength of the monofilament is not high, the short fiber yarn must contain cotton fiber and cellular polyester in order to increase the heat retention and breaking strength of the fabric. Meanwhile, the honeycomb terylene has large breaking elongation and can provide certain stretching effect to the fabric, thereby effectively reducing the deformation of the yarn structure caused by stretching. In addition, the proper combination of the bulk acrylic fiber and the soluble vinylon can ensure that the manufactured fabric has fluffy hand feeling and achieves the effect of keeping warm.
Preferably, before the blowing process, the cotton fiber, the honeycomb terylene, the tencel, the bulk acrylic fiber and the soluble vinylon are pre-mixed for one time according to the proportion, so that the fibers are uniformly mixed, and the vinylon fibers are bonded under different temperatures and humidity to cause non-uniform mixing, so that the different positions of the fabric are different due to non-uniform holes after the prepared yarn is dissolved later, and therefore, the pre-mixing is performed for uniformly mixing the fibers in the yarn for one time.
Specifically, the warm-keeping core-spun yarn is obtained by spinning according to the following method:
(1) a premixing step: before the blowing process, mixing cotton fiber, honeycomb terylene, tencel, bulk acrylic fiber and soluble vinylon to uniformly mix a plurality of fibers;
(2) a blowing procedure: and (2) carrying out secondary treatment on the premixed fibers in a blowing circular table to be grabbed, wherein the descending speed of a beater of a bale plucker is 3mm each time, the rotating speed is 950r/min, the speed of a rotary trolley is 2.6r/min, a blade extends out of a rib for 3mm, the beater speed is 780r/min, the fan speed is 940r/min, the distance between the beater and a balance roller is 10mm, the distance between a dust rod and a dust rod is 11mm (the effect of beating less and more combs is realized by adjusting the distance between the dust rods), the speed of a lap roller is 12r/min, and the dry weight ration of a lap is 350 g/m.
(3) Cotton carding process: the spacing between the cylinder and the licker-in is 12 inches, the spacing between the cylinder and the doffer is 5 inches, the speed of the cylinder is 290r/min, the speed of the licker-in is 595r/min, the speed of the doffer is 15.8r/min, the speed of the cover plate is 186mm/min, and the dry basis weight of cotton carding is 18.5g/5 m.
(4) Drawing: after 4 times of combination, 8 fibers are combined together, the roller gauge is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 7.58 times, and the back zone drafting is 1.68 times; combining 6 secondary combined yarns, wherein the dry weight ration is 16.4g/5m, the roller gauge is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.36 times, and the back zone drafting is 1.46 times; combining 6 combined yarns, wherein the dry weight is 15.8g/5m, the gauge of a roller is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.23 times, the drafting in a rear zone is 1.36 times, combining 6 combined yarns, the dry weight is 15g/5m, the gauge of the roller is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.23 times, and the drafting in the rear zone is 1.25 times.
Through the four times of combination, all fibers in the yarn are mixed more uniformly, so that the fibers in the yarn are mixed uniformly when the fabric prepared by the yarn is used for testing, and the tested fabric has high performance uniformity.
(5) Roving: the twist of the roving is 4.2 twists/10 cm, the back zone drafting is 1.2 times, the jaw spacing is 6.3mm, the dry weight ration of the roving is 3.85g/10m, and the mechanical drafting is 8.2 times.
(6) Spinning: the siro spinning method is adopted, two rovings are placed on a suspended spindle, the prepared rovings are fed in parallel, the rovings are fed through a bell mouth, a rear roller, a middle roller and a front roller, an overhead frame is additionally arranged above a spinning frame, elastic yarns are placed, an axial active unwinding mode is adopted, a yarn guide wheel is introduced through a tension regulator, the elastic yarns are fed into a jaw of the front roller through a yarn guide device, the coating of short fibers on the elastic yarns is realized, the distance between the bell mouths of two eyes is 4-5mm, the back zone drafting is 1.12, the mechanical drafting is 27.8, the twist degree is 72 twist/10 cm, the model number PG1-42 for a steel wire collar is adopted, and the model number W32130 # for a steel wire ring is adopted.
Through the steps (1) to (6), the fibers are mixed more uniformly, and the prepared fabric is dissolved to form a more uniform hole structure. Meanwhile, as the honeycomb terylene is in a porous structure, the strength of the fiber is lower than that of the common terylene, so that the damage of the process to the fiber is reduced when the spinning process is designed.
In the carding process, the opening and picking process of each piece of cotton picking equipment follows the process principle of 'flexible opening and efficient impurity removal', so that opening is only ensured without beating, the spacing between dust bars is reduced, the beater speed is properly reduced, and the fiber damage is reduced.
In the drawing process, the evenness and the parallel straightness of the drawn sliver are directly influenced by the drawing drafting multiple and the roller gauge thereof. The drawing draft multiple is not too large, which can cause large movement between fibers, thereby affecting the evenness of half-cooked slivers, and simultaneously the roller gauge is not too large, the channel is smooth, and the caliber of a bell mouth is proper and small, so as to improve the holding force between fibers. The can has proper capacity, the length is not too long, and the long length is easy to cause a large amount of friction and fuzzing of the upper layer of the cotton sliver, thereby seriously affecting the quality.
The roving process mainly improves the straightening parallel separation degree of fibers, improves yarn evenness and controls elongation, and is mainly focused on reducing hairiness. The total draft multiple of the roving is preferably smaller, the spacing of the rear area is properly reduced, the fiber is straightened to the maximum extent and does not displace, and the damage to the fiber is reduced. The roving twist meets the large requirement under the condition of normal drafting of spun yarns, the control on fibers can be enhanced due to the large twist, the tightness of the fibers is increased, and the head and the tail of the fibers are not easy to extend out of the surface of a main body of a sliver so as to reduce hairiness.
Because the soluble vinylon is easy to stick together under certain temperature and humidity, the mixing is not uniform, the premixing is carried out for one time before the blowing procedure, and the four-pass drawing is carried out during the drawing, so that the vinylon is fully mixed in the yarn, and the yarn evenness caused by the fact that the vinylon is easy to stick on a roller in the subsequent roving and spinning procedures can be avoided.
(7) Chemical fiber filament coating process: the yarn is coated with chemical fiber filaments in the reverse direction. Wherein the denier of the chemical fiber filament is 100D-500D, the F number is 50-900, and the twist degree (800-.
The yarn is coated in the opposite direction by adopting the twist range, so that the chemical fiber filament can be tightly and properly coated, and the filament can not be seriously twisted when the chemical fiber filament is coated; meanwhile, the chemical fiber filaments are coated into a circle of spiral effect without accumulation, and the hand feeling of the fabric can be effectively improved by coating in the opposite direction.
During weaving, proper warp yarns are selected, the woven fabric is compact and proper due to proper weaving processes such as reed number, weft density and reed insertion, and the proper texture structure such as weft tissue point floating length lines are larger than or equal to 3, so that the fabric is favorable for being subjected to hair grabbing treatment. When the fabric is too tight to grab wool, the fabric is not easy to fluff, and meanwhile, the needles for grabbing the wool can be damaged, and the fluff of the fabric is different in length; the fabric is not compact, although the air permeability of the fabric is good, the heat preservation effect of the fabric is not good after the fabric is scratched, and particularly the fabric is a single-layer fabric.
Preferably, the jean fabric for coral fleece handfeel is woven by the following method:
the prepared warm-keeping core-spun yarn is used as weft yarn to be woven with warp yarn, and the weaving process has the following technological parameters: the speed of the vehicle is 450-DEG, the opening time is 305-312 DEG, the height of the back beam is 8-12mm, the depth of the back beam is 5-10mm, the tension is 3-4KN, the ground tissue drafting is 3, 4, 5, 6, the side tissue drafting is 1, 2, the ground tissue drafting and the side tissue drafting are 4, the side tissue adopts 2/2 warp re-flattening, and the upper-English weft density is 55-70.
In the weaving process, the weft adopts a structure that long filaments cover short fibers, so that the yarn strength is high, and the tension of the weft in the weaving process needs to be adjusted, so that the phenomenon that the weft is broken due to improper on-machine tension is prevented, and the quality problem of the fabric is further caused. Meanwhile, when the arrow weft feeding of the weaving machine enters a weaving opening, weft yarns need to be chopped, and due to the adoption of the structure that long yarns cover short fibers, the strength of the yarns is high, sometimes the weft yarns cannot be chopped in time, so that defects such as cloth cover tension weft yarns and the like are caused, a blade for cutting the weft yarns can be added to a weft blocking block of the weaving machine, the yarns can be effectively cut, and the cloth cover quality problem of the tension weft yarns is reduced.
Preferably, the denim fabric for coral fleece handfeel is subjected to after-finishing by adopting the following method:
singeing: when in singeing, the flame temperature is controlled at 800 ℃, the singeing speed is 70m/min, and the singeing times are two positive singes and one negative singes, namely, the front singes twice and the back singes once.
Desizing: the speed of the desizing machine is 65m/min, the concentration of desizing enzyme is 8g/L, the penetrant is 5g/L, the temperature of a pulp rolling tank is 70 ℃, the temperature of a washing tank is 60 ℃, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 110 ℃, the pressure of a padder is 0.2MPa, and the cropping humidity is controlled to be 5%.
Loose wash water: on an overflow machine, the temperature was set at 80 ℃ and the treatment time was 80 min. In this step, soluble vinylon is dissolved. Under the condition, the soluble vinylon fiber is subjected to dissolution treatment, and the temperature and time of the treatment need to be reasonably controlled, so that vinylon can be fully dissolved; when the fabric is treated at the temperature, the bulked fibers can swell, so that the fabric has better heat-insulating effect and hand feeling.
Washing with water: and (3) washing the processed fabric with water, adding a cleaning agent into a machine at a concentration of 4g/L, and processing for 20 min. Because the dissolved substances can block the porous structure of the honeycomb terylene when the vinylon is dissolved in the previous step, the performance of the fabric is reduced, and the dissolved substances remained in the fabric can be effectively removed by washing once again.
Hydrophilic treatment: hydrophilic soft oil is adopted for treatment, the hydrophilic soft oil is mixed with water for use, and the required hydrophilic soft oil is 20g/L-50 g/L. Hydrophilic treatment can make the fabric moisture absorption performance get good, and when the human body goes out sweat or heat when high, the sweat can be through the fine hair one side of contact skin, can absorb the sweat more fast to because cotton fiber's moisture absorption performance is good and the porous structure of honeycomb dacron, can play and lead to fast and give off behind the fabric surface. The prior fabrics which are napped do not have the function after being worn, and cannot achieve the comfortable effect.
Shaping: the temperature of the setting machine is 160 ℃, the speed of the vehicle is 45m/min, and the pressure of the padder is 30N/mm.
Plucking: the hair-catching conditions are as follows: the speed of the vehicle is 6-14 m/min, the tension is 0.5-2.0%, and the rotating speed of the cylinder is 60-100 r/min.
The conditions for scalding the hair are as follows: reverse-texturing the cloth, wherein the speed is 10-18 m/min, the temperature is 170-185 ℃, and the tension is 0.9-1.6%; the forward rotating speed of the No. 1 ironing roller is 650-720 r/min, and the forward rotating speed of the No. 2 ironing roller is 720-820 r/min;
the shearing conditions are as follows: the speed is 10-20m/min, the tension is 0.8-1.8%, and the forward rotation speed of the circular knife is 700-.
Pre-shrinking: the vehicle speed is 35m/min, the rubber blanket pressure is 16%, the rubber blanket temperature is 135 ℃, and the blanket drying cylinder temperature is 135 ℃.
The invention is further illustrated by the following examples.
Example 1
Warp yarn: 10S pure cotton ring spindle +10S pure cotton ring spinning bamboo joint
Weft yarn: an outer layer 300D 536F superfine sea-island type composite filament bag 40S middle layer short fiber (comprising 30 parts by weight of cellular polyester, 10 parts by weight of soluble vinylon, 10 parts by weight of bulk acrylic, 10 parts by weight of tencel and 30 parts by weight of common cotton) and an inner layer 70D lycra, wherein the drafting multiple of the lycra is 3.5 times
The fabric weave structure: 3/1 right side
Washing the fabric, and weighing in gram: 13.5OZ
The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel in the embodiment is prepared by the following production method:
preparing a warm-keeping core-spun yarn:
(1) a premixing step: before the blowing process, the cotton fiber, the honeycomb terylene, the tencel, the bulk acrylic fiber and the soluble vinylon are mixed, so that various fibers are uniformly mixed.
(2) A blowing procedure: and (2) carrying out secondary treatment on the premixed fibers in a blowing circular table to be grabbed, wherein the descending speed of a beater of a bale plucker is 3mm each time, the rotating speed is 950r/min, the speed of a rotary trolley is 2.6r/min, a blade extends out of a rib for 3mm, the beater speed is 780r/min, the fan speed is 940r/min, the distance between the beater and a balance roller is 10mm, the distance between a dust rod and a dust rod is 11mm (the effect of beating less and more combs is realized by adjusting the distance between the dust rods), the speed of a lap roller is 12r/min, and the dry weight ration of a lap is 350 g/m.
(3) Cotton carding process: the spacing between the cylinder and the licker-in is 12 inches, the spacing between the cylinder and the doffer is 5 inches, the speed of the cylinder is 290r/min, the speed of the licker-in is 595r/min, the speed of the doffer is 15.8r/min, the speed of the cover plate is 186mm/min, and the dry basis weight of cotton carding is 18.5g/5 m.
(4) Drawing: after 4 times of combination, 8 fibers are combined together, the roller gauge is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 7.58 times, and the back zone drafting is 1.68 times; combining 6 secondary combined yarns, wherein the dry weight ration is 16.4g/5m, the roller gauge is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.36 times, and the back zone drafting is 1.46 times; combining 6 combined yarns, wherein the dry weight is 15.8g/5m, the gauge of a roller is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.23 times, the drafting in a rear zone is 1.36 times, combining 6 combined yarns, the dry weight is 15g/5m, the gauge of the roller is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.23 times, and the drafting in the rear zone is 1.25 times.
(5) Roving: the twist of the roving is 4.2 twists/10 cm, the back zone drafting is 1.2 times, the jaw spacing is 6.3mm, the dry weight ration of the roving is 3.85g/10m, and the mechanical drafting is 8.2 times.
(6) Spinning: the siro spinning method is adopted, two rovings are placed on a suspended spindle, the prepared rovings are fed in parallel, the rovings are fed through a bell mouth, a rear roller, a middle roller and a front roller, an overhead frame is additionally arranged above a spinning frame, elastic yarns are placed, an axial active unwinding mode is adopted, a yarn guide wheel is introduced through a tension regulator, the elastic yarns are fed into a jaw of the front roller through a yarn guide device, the coating of short fibers on the elastic yarns is realized, the distance between the bell mouths of two eyes is 4-5mm, the back zone drafting is 1.12, the mechanical drafting is 27.8, the twist degree is 72 twist/10 cm, the model number PG1-42 for a steel wire collar is adopted, and the model number W32130 # for a steel wire ring is adopted.
(7) Chemical fiber filament coating process: the yarn is coated with chemical fiber filaments in the reverse direction.
Weaving: the speed of the vehicle is 450-DEG, the opening time is 305-312 DEG, the height of the back beam is 8-12mm, the depth of the back beam is 5-10mm, the tension is 3-4KN, the ground tissue drafting is 3, 4, 5, 6, the side tissue drafting is 1, 2, the ground tissue drafting and the side tissue drafting are 4, the side tissue adopts 2/2 warp re-flattening, and the upper-English weft density is 55-70.
And (3) after finishing:
singeing: when in singeing, the flame temperature is controlled at 800 ℃, the singeing speed is 70m/min, and the singeing times are two positive singes and one negative singes, namely, the front singes twice and the back singes once.
Desizing: the speed of the desizing machine is 65m/min, the concentration of desizing enzyme is 8g/L, the penetrant is 5g/L, the temperature of a pulp rolling tank is 70 ℃, the temperature of a washing tank is 60 ℃, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 110 ℃, the pressure of a padder is 0.2MPa, and the cropping humidity is controlled to be 5%.
Loose wash water: setting the temperature to 80 ℃ on an overflow machine, and treating for 80 min;
washing with water: washing the processed fabric with water, adding a cleaning agent into a machine with the concentration of 4g/L, and processing for 20 min;
hydrophilic treatment: hydrophilic soft oil is adopted for treatment, the hydrophilic soft oil is mixed with water for use, and the required hydrophilic soft oil is 20g/L-50 g/L;
shaping: the temperature of the setting machine is 160 ℃, the speed is 45m/min, and the padder pressure is 30N/mm;
plucking: the hair-catching conditions are as follows: the speed of the vehicle is 6-14 m/min, the tension is 0.5-2.0%, and the rotating speed of the cylinder is 60-100 r/min;
the conditions for scalding the hair are as follows: reverse-texturing the cloth, wherein the speed is 10-18 m/min, the temperature is 170-185 ℃, and the tension is 0.9-1.6%; the forward rotating speed of the No. 1 ironing roller is 650-720 r/min, and the forward rotating speed of the No. 2 ironing roller is 720-820 r/min;
the shearing conditions are as follows: the speed is 10-20m/min, the tension is 0.8-1.8%, and the forward rotation speed of the circular knife is 700-;
pre-shrinking: the vehicle speed is 35m/min, the rubber blanket pressure is 16%, the rubber blanket temperature is 135 ℃, and the blanket drying cylinder temperature is 135 ℃.
The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel in the embodiment has the advantages of good fleece sense, clear cloth surface lines and antique style. The denim fabric with coral fleece handfeel of the present example was subjected to performance tests, and the results are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
Rate of heat preservation Air permeability Tearing strength in weft direction Elastic elongation in weft
31.6% 29mm/s 650N 58%
Example 2
Warp yarn: 16S pure cotton sirospun
Weft yarn: the outer layer 160D 243F superfine warm-keeping filament bag middle layer 26S short fiber (according to the parts by weight, comprising 30 parts of honeycomb polyester, 10 parts of soluble vinylon, 10 parts of bulk acrylic, 10 parts of tencel and 30 parts of common cotton) bag inner layer 40D lycra, wherein the drafting multiple of the lycra is 3.0 times
The fabric weave structure: 4/1 right side
Fabric gram weight: 12.8OZ
The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel in the embodiment is prepared by the production method in the embodiment 1. The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel in the embodiment has the advantages of good fleece sense, clear cloth surface lines and antique style. The denim fabric with coral fleece handfeel of the present example was subjected to performance tests, and the results are shown in table 2.
TABLE 2
Rate of heat preservation Air permeability Tearing strength in weft direction Elastic elongation in weft
35.3% 33.5mm/s 732N 63.5%
Example 3
Warp yarn: 16S pure cotton sirospun loose twisted yarn and 16S pure cotton sirospun loose twisted yarn slub
Weft yarn: an outer layer 225D 186F volcanic rock superfine filament bag middle layer 32S short fiber (according to parts by weight, comprising 30 parts of honeycomb terylene, 10 parts of soluble vinylon, 10 parts of bulk acrylic fiber, 10 parts of tencel and 30 parts of common cotton) bag inner layer 40D lycra, wherein the drafting multiple of the lycra is 3.0 times
The fabric weave structure: 4/1 twill
Washing the fabric, and weighing in gram: 13.3OZ
The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel in the embodiment is prepared by the production method in the embodiment 1. The jean fabric with the coral fleece handfeel in the embodiment has the advantages of good fleece sense, clear cloth surface lines and antique style. The denim fabric with coral fleece handfeel of the present example was subjected to performance test, and the results are shown in table 3.
TABLE 3
Rate of heat preservation Air permeability Tearing strength in weft direction Elastic elongation in weft
38.1% 31.5mm/s 682N 52.6%
Comparative example
Comparative example 1: the warp yarns, the fabric weave structure, the napping process, and the like were the same as in example 1, except that the weft yarns were 160D polyester. The fabric obtained by the comparative example has weak texture and low velvet feeling on the cloth surface. The comparative example fabric was subjected to performance test, and the results are shown in table 4.
TABLE 4
Rate of heat preservation Air permeability Tearing strength in weft direction Elastic elongation in weft
26.5% 24.6mm/s 352N 42.5%
Comparative example 2: the warp yarns, the fabric weave structure, the napping process and the like were the same as in example 1, except that the weft yarns were made of 160D/40D polyester-covered spandex. The fabric obtained by the comparative example has weak texture and low velvet feeling on the cloth surface. The comparative example fabric was subjected to performance test, and the results are shown in table 5.
TABLE 5
Rate of heat preservation Air permeability Tearing strength in weft direction Elastic elongation in weft
28.8% 25.3mm/s 462N 48.9%
It is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the examples described above, but that modifications and variations may be effected thereto by those of ordinary skill in the art in light of the foregoing description, and that all such modifications and variations are intended to be within the scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

Claims (9)

1. The coral velvet-feeling jean fabric is characterized in that one side or two sides of the coral velvet-feeling jean fabric are subjected to hair grabbing treatment to form a plush surface, and warps or wefts of the coral velvet-feeling jean fabric are made of warm-keeping core-spun yarns;
the warm-keeping core-spun yarn comprises a middle-layer short fiber yarn and an outer-layer chemical fiber filament; the chemical fiber filament is spirally coated on the short fiber yarn; the short fiber yarn is a strip yarn formed by twisting two fibers including cotton fiber and honeycomb polyester fiber.
2. The coral velvet handfeel denim fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the short fiber yarn is a core spun yarn, the short fiber yarn further comprises stretch yarn, and the stretch yarn is spirally wrapped with five fibers, namely cotton fiber, honeycomb polyester fiber, bulk acrylic fiber, tencel fiber and soluble vinylon, in a twisted strip shape; the chemical fiber filament is coated on the short fiber yarn; the yarn twisting direction of the short fiber yarn is opposite to the coating direction of the chemical fiber filament.
3. The coral velvet feeling denim fabric as claimed in claim 2, wherein the staple fiber yarn is a strip yarn twisted by five fibers of cotton fiber, honeycomb polyester fiber, bulk acrylic fiber, tencel fiber and soluble vinylon; the short fiber yarn comprises five short fibers, by weight, 30-40 parts of cotton fibers, 30-40 parts of honeycomb polyester fibers, 10-20 parts of bulked acrylic fibers, 10-20 parts of tencel fibers and 10-15 parts of soluble vinylon fibers.
4. The coral velvet handfeel denim fabric as claimed in claim 2, wherein the staple fiber yarn is a core spun yarn, the staple fiber yarn further comprising stretch yarn; five fibers, namely cotton fiber, honeycomb polyester fiber, bulked acrylic fiber, tencel fiber and soluble vinylon, are twisted into strips and spirally coated on the elastic yarn, the short fiber yarn is coated on the elastic yarn, and the chemical fiber filament yarn is coated on the short fiber yarn; the yarn twisting direction of the staple fiber yarn is opposite to the coating direction of the chemical fiber filaments.
5. The coral velvet feeling denim fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the staple fiber yarn further comprises one or more of tencel fiber, modal fiber or viscose fiber.
6. The coral velvet feeling denim fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the denier of the chemical fiber filament is 100D-500D, and the F number is 50-900; the chemical fiber filament is functional warm-keeping filament fiber or sea-island type composite fiber.
7. The coral velvet feeling denim fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the twist degree TM of the staple fiber yarn is 3.8-4.8, and the yarn count range is 8S-50S.
8. The coral velvet jean fabric according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein the coral velvet jean fabric is water-washed, and gaps are formed in the staple fiber yarns due to the dissolution of the soluble vinylon.
9. A method for producing jean fabric with coral fleece handfeel as claimed in claim 3, which comprises spinning, weaving and finishing;
wherein the spinning process comprises the following steps:
a premixing step: before the blowing process, mixing cotton fiber, honeycomb terylene, tencel, bulk acrylic fiber and soluble vinylon to uniformly mix a plurality of fibers;
a blowing procedure: carrying out secondary treatment on the pre-mixed fibers in a blowing circular table, wherein the pre-mixed fibers are to be grabbed, the descending speed of a beater of a bale plucker is 3mm each time, the rotating speed is 950r/min, the speed of a rotary trolley is 2.6r/min, the blade extends out of a rib for 3mm, the beater speed is 780r/min, the fan speed is 940r/min, the distance between the beater and a balance roller is 10mm, the distance between a dust rod and a dust rod is 11mm, the speed of a lap roller is 12r/min, and the dry weight ration of lap is 350 g/m;
cotton carding process: the spacing between the cylinder and the licker-in is 12 inches, the spacing between the cylinder and the doffer is 5 inches, the speed of the cylinder is 290r/min, the speed of the licker-in is 595r/min, the speed of the doffer is 15.8r/min, the speed of the cover plate is 186mm/min, and the dry basis weight of cotton carding is 18.5g/5 m;
drawing: after 4 times of combination, 8 fibers are combined together, the roller gauge is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 7.58 times, and the back zone drafting is 1.68 times; combining 6 secondary combined yarns, wherein the dry weight ration is 16.4g/5m, the roller gauge is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.36 times, and the back zone drafting is 1.46 times; combining 6 combined yarns, wherein the dry weight is 15.8g/5m, the gauge of a roller is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.23 times, the drafting in a rear zone is 1.36 times, combining 6 combined yarns, the dry weight is 15g/5m, the gauge of the roller is 15mm multiplied by 25mm, the mechanical drafting is 6.23 times, and the drafting in the rear zone is 1.25 times;
roving: the twist of the roving is 4.2 twists/10 cm, the back zone drafting is 1.2 times, the jaw spacing is 6.3mm, the dry weight ration of the roving is 3.85g/10m, and the mechanical drafting is 8.2 times;
spinning: the siro spinning method is adopted, two rovings are placed on a suspended spindle, the prepared rovings are fed in parallel, the rovings are fed through a bell mouth, a rear roller, a middle roller and a front roller, an overhead frame is additionally arranged above a spinning frame, an elastic yarn is placed, the elastic yarn is axially and actively unwound, a yarn guide wheel is introduced through a tension regulator, the elastic yarn is fed into a jaw of the front roller through a yarn guide device, the elastic yarn is coated by short fibers, the distance between the bell mouths of two eyes is 4-5mm, the back zone drafting is 1.12, the mechanical drafting is 27.8, the twist is 72 twists/10 cm, the model PG1-42 for a steel wire collar and the model W32130 # for a steel wire ring;
chemical fiber filament coating process: the yarn is coated with chemical fiber filaments in the reverse direction, and the twist of the chemical fiber filament coating is 800-;
the weaving process comprises the following steps: the speed is 450-DEG, the opening time is 305-312 DEG, the height of the back beam is 8-12mm, the depth of the back beam is 5-10mm, the tension is 3-4KN, the ground tissue drafting is 3, 4, 5, 6, the side tissue drafting is 1, 2, the ground tissue drafting and the side tissue drafting are 4 in, the side tissue adopts 2/2 warp re-flattening, and the upper-English weft density is 55-70;
the after-finishing process comprises the following steps:
singeing: when in singeing, the flame temperature is controlled to be 800 ℃, the singeing speed is 70m/min, the singeing times are two positive and one negative, namely, the front surface of the fabric is singed twice, and the back surface is singed once;
desizing: the speed of the desizing machine is 65m/min, the concentration of desizing enzyme is 8g/L, the penetrant is 5g/L, the temperature of a pulp rolling tank is 70 ℃, the temperature of a washing tank is 60 ℃, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 110 ℃, the pressure of a padder is 0.2MPa, and the cropping humidity is controlled to be 5%;
loose wash water: setting the temperature to 80 ℃ on an overflow machine, and treating for 80 min;
washing with water: washing the processed fabric with water, adding a cleaning agent into a machine with the concentration of 4g/L, and processing for 20 min;
hydrophilic treatment: hydrophilic soft oil is adopted for treatment, the hydrophilic soft oil is mixed with water for use, and the required hydrophilic soft oil is 20g/L-50 g/L;
shaping: the temperature of the setting machine is 160 ℃, the speed is 45m/min, and the padder pressure is 30N/mm;
plucking: the hair-catching conditions are as follows: the speed of the vehicle is 6-14 m/min, the tension is 0.5-2.0%, and the rotating speed of the cylinder is 60-100 r/min;
the conditions for scalding the hair are as follows: reverse-texturing the cloth, wherein the speed is 10-18 m/min, the temperature is 170-185 ℃, and the tension is 0.9-1.6%; the forward rotating speed of the No. 1 ironing roller is 650-720 r/min, and the forward rotating speed of the No. 2 ironing roller is 720-820 r/min;
the shearing conditions are as follows: the speed is 10-20m/min, the tension is 0.8-1.8%, and the forward rotation speed of the circular knife is 700-;
pre-shrinking: the vehicle speed is 35m/min, the rubber blanket pressure is 16%, the rubber blanket temperature is 135 ℃, and the blanket drying cylinder temperature is 135 ℃.
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CN112391717A (en) * 2020-10-26 2021-02-23 吴江市天缘纺织有限公司 Filling-free cotton-padded garment fabric and production process thereof
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CN113668119A (en) * 2021-08-02 2021-11-19 浙江鑫兰纺织有限公司 Processing method of double-layer warm-keeping jean fabric
CN113832582A (en) * 2021-08-26 2021-12-24 江阴市茂达棉纺厂有限公司 Composite yarn and preparation and coloring method thereof
CN114941192A (en) * 2022-06-23 2022-08-26 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 Core-unexposed yarn and jean fabric
CN114941192B (en) * 2022-06-23 2024-05-07 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 Yarn without exposing core and jean fabric

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