JP5869719B1 - Knitted fabric with uniform surface quality - Google Patents
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Abstract
【課題】機能性糸等の染まらない繊維を含んだ糸、特に機能性糸の毛羽を持つ糸を使用していても編地の表面が均一な染め面であり、深みのある高級な色調を表現することが可能な編物を提供する。【解決手段】染色された一対の両面編み糸条に対して、裏面側に染色されない繊維を含む紡績糸条をオールニット及び／又はニットウエルトで配置した組織からなることを特徴とする編物。裏面側に配置されない紡績糸条は、染色されない機能性繊維を５〜１００重量％含む。本発明の編物は、快適性の高いインナーやミドルウェアに使用するのに好適である。【選択図】図１[PROBLEMS] To provide a deep, high-grade color tone with a uniform dyed surface on the surface of a knitted fabric even when yarns containing undyed fibers such as functional yarns, especially yarns having functional yarns are used. Provide a knitted fabric that can be expressed. A knitted fabric comprising a structure in which a spun yarn including fibers that are not dyed on the back side is arranged in all knit and / or knit welt with respect to a pair of dyed double-sided knitting yarns. The spun yarn not arranged on the back side contains 5 to 100% by weight of functional fibers that are not dyed. The knitted fabric of the present invention is suitable for use in innerwear and middleware with high comfort. [Selection] Figure 1
Description
本発明は、機能性繊維等の染色されない繊維を含みながらも表面から見たときの染色斑が少なく、均一で綺麗な表面品位を有する編物に関する。 The present invention relates to a knitted fabric that contains a non-dyed fiber such as a functional fiber, has few dyeing spots when viewed from the surface, and has a uniform and clean surface quality.
インナーやミドルウエア等には、風合いが柔らかく、伸縮性が高く、しかも軽い編物が使用されている。更に、これらの編物は、表面がソリッドで綺麗な深みのある均一な色合いであると高級感が得られて商品価値が向上する。しかし、快適性や機能性を持つ繊維は染色できなかったり、十分な濃度で染色できないものが多いため、これらの繊維を含んだ編物は、機能性と均一な染色を両立することが難しかった。特に、カットファイバーの高機能繊維を用いた紡績糸の場合は、染まらない高機能繊維の毛羽が表面に存在するため、染め面の高級感が著しく低下してしまう問題があった。 For inner wear and middle wear, knitted fabrics with soft texture, high elasticity and light weight are used. Furthermore, these knitted fabrics have a solid surface and a beautiful and uniform color with a deep depth, so that a high-class feeling is obtained and the commercial value is improved. However, since many fibers having comfort and functionality cannot be dyed or cannot be dyed at a sufficient concentration, it is difficult for a knitted fabric including these fibers to achieve both functionality and uniform dyeing. In particular, in the case of a spun yarn using high-performance fibers of cut fibers, there is a problem that the high-quality feeling of the dyed surface is remarkably lowered because fluff of high-performance fibers that are not dyed exists on the surface.
この問題を解決するための従来の試みの一例として、毛羽の少ない紡績糸に関する技術がある。例えば、特許文献１では、毛羽が少なく、ピリングになりにくいエア交絡紡績糸が提案されている。このエア交絡紡績糸は、毛羽が少ないことが特徴であるが、この紡績糸を使っただけでは、上記問題を充分に解消するには至らない。 As an example of a conventional attempt to solve this problem, there is a technique related to spun yarn with less fluff. For example, Patent Document 1 proposes an air entangled spun yarn that has less fuzz and is difficult to pill. This air-entangled spun yarn is characterized by few fuzz, but the use of this spun yarn does not sufficiently solve the above problem.
また、編物の構造を工夫した試みの一例として、特許文献２には、添糸編によって形成されたリバーシブル構造を有する編地が提案されている。しかし、この方法では、添糸と地糸がひっくり返りやすく、染まらない糸が表面に出て白剥きが起こり易い問題があった。また一方では、特許文献３には、表層と裏層の二層または表層と中間層と裏層の三層からなり、合成繊維とセルロース系短繊維を含む結束紡績糸が裏層に配置され、表層及び／又は中間層を構成する少なくとも一種の糸が裏層にニット及び又はタックで接結されていることを特徴とする編物が提案されている。この方法を用いた場合、紡績糸として風合いが硬くなりやすい結束紡績糸を使う必要があることや、重い編地になりやすい問題があった。 As an example of an attempt to devise the structure of a knitted fabric, Patent Document 2 proposes a knitted fabric having a reversible structure formed by splicing. However, this method has a problem that the splicing yarn and the ground yarn are easily turned over, and the undyed yarn is likely to appear on the surface and whitening is likely to occur. On the other hand, Patent Document 3 consists of two layers of a surface layer and a back layer or three layers of a surface layer, an intermediate layer, and a back layer, and a bound spun yarn containing synthetic fibers and cellulose short fibers is arranged in the back layer. There has been proposed a knitted fabric characterized in that at least one type of yarn constituting the surface layer and / or the intermediate layer is connected to the back layer by knit and / or tack. When this method is used, there is a problem that it is necessary to use a bound spun yarn that tends to have a hard texture as a spun yarn, and that a heavy knitted fabric tends to be formed.
このように従来の技術では、いずれも問題があり、紡績糸中の染まらない繊維の混率を低く抑えなくてはならなかったり、特殊な糸構成にしたり、編地が分厚く重くなったりして汎用的に満足するものがないのが現状である。 As described above, all of the conventional technologies have problems, and it is necessary to keep the mixing ratio of undyed fibers in the spun yarn low, to use a special yarn configuration, and to make the knitted fabric thicker and heavier. At present, there is nothing to satisfy.
本発明は、かかる従来技術の現状に鑑み創案されたものであり、その目的は、機能性糸等の染まらない繊維を含んだ糸、特に機能性糸の毛羽を持つ糸を使用していても編地の表面が均一な染め面であり、深みのある高級な色調を表現することが可能な編物を提供することにある。更には、軽量で高い伸縮性を兼ね備え、快適なインナーやミドラーの衣料に最適な編物を提供することにある。 The present invention was devised in view of the current state of the prior art. The purpose of the present invention is to use yarns containing fibers that do not dye, such as functional yarns, particularly yarns having fluff of functional yarns. An object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric in which the surface of the knitted fabric is a uniform dyed surface and can express a deep high-grade color tone. Furthermore, it is to provide a knitted fabric that is lightweight and highly stretchable, and that is optimal for comfortable inner and midler clothing.
本発明者らは、かかる目的を達成するために鋭意検討した結果、２本の糸で１×１リブ編が二重に重なった組織構造（両面編組織）が、この一対の糸で見掛け１コースを形成するため非常に緻密な構造をとることができることに着目し、この構造を利用して染色されない繊維を含む糸を裏側の特定の位置に配置して、その両側からこの緻密な両面編み組織で挟み込む構造をとることによって、染色されない繊維が表面からは殆ど見えず、また洗濯したときに染色されない繊維が動いて表面に毛羽が出てくることを防止できることを見出した。それに加えて、この編地の表面に嵩高な糸を用いて、編地全体をニットループのみで組織することで、インナーやミドラー衣料に必要な伸縮性や軽量性を兼ね備えた編地を提供できることも見出した。 As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the inventors of the present invention have a texture structure (double-sided knitted structure) in which 1 × 1 rib knitting is overlapped with two yarns in appearance 1 with this pair of yarns. Paying attention to the fact that a very dense structure can be taken to form the course, this structure is used to place yarns containing undyed fibers at specific positions on the back side, and this double-sided knitting from both sides It has been found that by adopting a structure sandwiched between tissues, undyed fibers are hardly visible from the surface, and it is possible to prevent undyed fibers from moving and fluff from appearing on the surface when washed. In addition, by using bulky yarn on the surface of this knitted fabric and organizing the entire knitted fabric with only knit loops, it is possible to provide a knitted fabric that combines the elasticity and light weight required for inner and midler clothing. I also found.
即ち、本発明は、上記の知見に基づいて完成されたものであり、以下の（１）〜（８）の構成を有するものである。
（１）染色され難い繊維を含む紡績糸条が、それに隣接する両側の染色された一対の両面編み糸条で挟まれるように、染色された一対の両面編み糸条に対して、染色され難い繊維を含む紡績糸条をオールニット及び／又はニットウエルトで配置した組織からなること、及び染色され難い繊維が、アクリレート繊維、ポリアクリル酸繊維、ポリフェニレンベンズオキサゾール繊維、ポリエチレン繊維、ポリプロピレン繊維、アラミド繊維、ポリフェニレンサルファイト繊維、液晶ポリエステル繊維、ポリアクリレート繊維、及びポリパラフェニレン繊維からなる群から選択される少なくとも１種の繊維であることを特徴とする編物。
（２）染色され難い繊維を含む紡績糸条が、染色され難い繊維を５〜１００重量％含むことを特徴とする（１）に記載の編物。
（３）染色された一対の両面編みとオールニット又はニットウエルトとで配置した組織として３コースで一完全の組織からなることを特徴とする（１）又は（２）に記載の編物。
（４）染色された一対の両面編みを構成する糸として、沸水収縮率差が１０％以上異なる異収縮繊維を混用した紡績糸を使用することを特徴とする（１）〜（３）のいずれかに記載の編物。
（５）染色された一対の両面編みを構成する糸として、捲縮伸長率２５〜７０％の仮撚加工糸を使用することを特徴とする（１）〜（４）のいずれかに記載の編物。
（６）染色された一対の両面編みからなる表面を起毛していることを特徴とする（１）〜（５）のいずれかに記載の編物。
（７）染色された一対の両面編みからなる表面に存在する染色され難い繊維の本数が１ｃｍ２当り１５本以下であることを特徴とする（１）〜（６）のいずれかに記載の編物。
（８）編地の組織が全てニットループで構成され、目付が１００〜２５０ｇ／ｍ２であり、定荷重法によるタテ、ヨコの伸度の平均が７０〜１００％であり、且つ定荷重法によるタテ、ヨコの伸長回復率の平均が９０〜１００％であることを特徴とする（１）〜（７）のいずれかに記載の編物。
That is, this invention is completed based on said knowledge, and has the following structures (1)-(8).
(1) is spun yarn comprising dyed hard fibers, so as to be sandwiched by a pair of double-sided knitting yarns dyed on both sides adjacent thereto, with respect stained pair of double-sided knitting yarn is stained be made of tissue disposed spun yarns comprising flame had fibers in all knit and / or Nittoueruto, and dyed hard fibers, acrylate fibers, polyacrylic acid fibers, polyphenylene benzoxazole fibers, polyethylene fibers, polypropylene fibers, A knitted fabric comprising at least one fiber selected from the group consisting of aramid fiber, polyphenylene sulfite fiber, liquid crystal polyester fiber, polyacrylate fiber, and polyparaphenylene fiber .
(2) spun yarns comprising dyed hard fibers, or knitted fabric according to the dyed difficulty have fibers characterized the early days containing 5 to 100% by weight (1).
(3) The knitted fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the knitted fabric is composed of three complete courses as a structure arranged by a pair of dyed double-sided knitting and all knit or knit welt.
(4) Any one of (1) to (3), wherein a spun yarn in which different shrinkage fibers differing in boiling water shrinkage ratio by 10% or more are used as a yarn constituting a pair of dyed double-side knittings Knitted fabric according to crab.
(5) The false twisted yarn having a crimp elongation of 25 to 70% is used as the yarn constituting the pair of dyed double-sided knittings. (1) to (4) knitting.
(6) The knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (5), wherein a surface comprising a pair of dyed double-sided knittings is raised.
(7) The number of stained difficulty have fibers present on the surface made of stained pair of double-sided knitting is equal to or less than 2 per fifteen 1 cm (1) ~ according to any one of (6) knitting.
(8) The structure of the knitted fabric is entirely composed of knit loops, the basis weight is 100 to 250 g / m 2 , the average of the vertical and horizontal elongation by the constant load method is 70 to 100%, and the constant load method (1)-(7) The knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (7), wherein the average elongation recovery rate of warp and width is 90 to 100%.
本発明の編物は、染色された一対の両面編み糸条に対して、裏面側に染色されない繊維をオールニット及び／又はニットウエルトで配置した組織からなるので、表面側が非常に緻密な構造を形成し、その結果、表面側から染色されない繊維がほとんど見えず、さらには洗濯を繰り返しても表面側に露出することがないため、均一で綺麗な表面品位を保つことができる。従って、本発明の編物は、非常に高機能であるが染まり難い繊維を用いても編地表面側に染まらない糸が響かないため、例えば熱伝導性が低い或いは高い繊維を肌側に用いて接触温感や冷感を高めたり、高吸放湿繊維を用いて衣服内湿度をコントロールして蒸れたり乾燥しすぎることを防ぐといった快適性や安全性について外観を損なわずに高めることができる。更には、本発明の編物は、軽量感があり、かつ伸縮性を持たせることができるので、インナー等の用途でも着用快適性に優れたものを提供することができる。 The knitted fabric of the present invention has a structure in which fibers that are not dyed on the back side are arranged in all knits and / or knit welts with respect to a pair of dyed double-sided knitting yarns, so that the surface side forms a very dense structure. As a result, fibers that are not dyed are hardly visible from the surface side, and are not exposed to the surface side even after repeated washing, so that a uniform and clean surface quality can be maintained. Therefore, the knitted fabric of the present invention does not resonate with the yarn that does not dye on the knitted fabric surface side even when using fibers that are very highly functional but difficult to dye. For example, fibers with low or high thermal conductivity are used on the skin side. It is possible to enhance the comfort and safety without increasing the appearance, such as increasing the feeling of contact and cooling, or controlling moisture in the clothes using high moisture-absorbing and releasing fibers to prevent it from being too steamed or dried. Furthermore, since the knitted fabric of the present invention has a feeling of light weight and can be stretched, it is possible to provide a knitted fabric excellent in wearing comfort even for uses such as an inner.
本発明の編物は、一対の糸で１×１リブ編が二重に重なった組織（両面編組織）に、染色されない繊維を含む紡績糸を裏側の隣接した位置に配置する組織からなるものであり、最小基本構造として３コースで完全組織となるものである。この最小基本構造の組織は、図１または図２の組織で表わすことができる。図１は、一対の両面編み組織に隣接して裏面にオールニットで紡績糸を配置したものである。また、図２は、一対の両面編み組織に隣接して裏面にニットウエルトで紡績糸を配置したものである。図１、図２の組織は、一般的な組織名を持たないので、本発明者らは、図１の組織をダイヤロック、図２の組織をウエルトダイヤロックと呼ぶことにする。この二つの基本組織をそれぞれ単独で用いてもよいし、組み合わせて使用してもよい。しかし、インナーやミドラー等の肌に近い衣料では、肌の伸縮性に追随する伸度を持つと着心地よく着用することができるため、そのような用途に用いる場合は、編物全体がニットループで編み上げるダイヤロック組織が好適である。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a structure in which a spun yarn containing undyed fibers is arranged at an adjacent position on the back side in a structure (double-sided knitted structure) in which a 1 × 1 rib knitting is doubled by a pair of yarns. Yes, the minimum basic structure is a complete organization with 3 courses. The organization of this minimal basic structure can be represented by the organization of FIG. 1 or FIG. FIG. 1 shows an arrangement in which spun yarn is arranged in an all-knit manner on the back surface adjacent to a pair of double-sided knitted structures. FIG. 2 shows a spun yarn arranged with knit welt on the back surface adjacent to a pair of double-sided knitted structures. 1 and FIG. 2 does not have a general organization name, the present inventors will refer to the structure of FIG. 1 as Dialock and the structure of FIG. 2 as Welt Dialock. These two basic structures may be used alone or in combination. However, clothing close to the skin, such as inner and midler, can be worn comfortably if it has an elongation that follows the elasticity of the skin. When used in such applications, the entire knitted fabric is knitted with a knit loop. A diamond lock structure is preferred.
本発明の編物の組織においては、少なくとも一対の両面編みを構成する糸条は染色されていることが必要である。染色は、原着糸であっても、原綿を染色しても、糸染めでも後染めでもよく、特に限定しない。また、本発明の編物は、染色されない短繊維を裏面のみに配置するが、染色されない繊維としては、例えば、アクリレート繊維、ポリアクリル酸繊維、（超高分子）ポリエチレン繊維、ポリプロピレン繊維、、ポリフェニレンサルファイト繊維、ポリパラフェニレンベンズオキサゾール（ＰＢＯ）繊維、アラミド繊維、液晶ポリエステル繊維、ポリアリレート繊維等の高機能繊維が挙げられる。これらの高機能繊維は、単独又は２種以上で使用することができる。これらの機能性繊維は、染まり難い代わりに編物に高機能性を付加することが可能である。勿論、染色しない汎用繊維を用いても良い。 In the knitted fabric structure of the present invention, it is necessary that the yarns constituting at least a pair of double-sided knitting are dyed. Dyeing is not particularly limited, and may be an original yarn, dyeing raw cotton, yarn dyeing or post dyeing. In the knitted fabric of the present invention, unstained short fibers are arranged only on the back surface. Examples of unstained fibers include acrylate fibers, polyacrylic acid fibers, (ultra high molecular weight) polyethylene fibers, polypropylene fibers, and polyphenylene sulfide. Examples include phytofibers, polyparaphenylene benzoxazole (PBO) fibers, aramid fibers, liquid crystal polyester fibers, and polyarylate fibers. These highly functional fibers can be used alone or in combination of two or more. These functional fibers can add high functionality to the knitted fabric instead of being difficult to dye. Of course, general-purpose fibers that are not dyed may be used.
染色しない繊維と混用しうる繊維（染色繊維）は、一般的な汎用繊維なら何でも使用でき、特に限定されない。例えば、ポリエステル、ナイロン、アクリルのような合成繊維、レーヨン、キュプラ、ポリノジック、溶剤紡糸セルロース等の再生繊維、アセテートのような半合成繊維、綿、麻等のセルロース繊維、羊毛や他の獣毛繊維、絹等の天然繊維を用いることができる。 Any general-purpose fiber can be used as the fiber (dye fiber) that can be mixed with the fiber that is not dyed, and is not particularly limited. For example, synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon and acrylic, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, polynosic, solvent-spun cellulose, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, cellulose fibers such as cotton and hemp, wool and other animal hair fibers Natural fibers such as silk can be used.
裏面側に配置される紡績糸における染色されない短繊維の混率は、５〜１００重量％が好ましく、より好ましくは１０〜１００重量％である。混率がこの範囲未満では、機能性繊維の性能が十分に活かされ難くなる。 The blend ratio of short fibers not dyed in the spun yarn arranged on the back side is preferably 5 to 100% by weight, more preferably 10 to 100% by weight. When the mixing ratio is less than this range, the performance of the functional fiber is not sufficiently utilized.
本発明において使用される染色されない繊維を含む紡績糸の毛羽数は、一般的なリング紡績糸における表面毛羽数の範囲であれば問題無く使用できる。勿論、毛羽が少ない形態の紡績糸が表面への毛羽の吹き出し防止には有利であるが、本発明は、毛羽が多い一般的なリング紡績糸でもうまく吹き出しを防止できる。リング紡績糸の毛羽数は、総繊度、撚係数、及び毛焼きの有無によって変化するが、一般的な通常撚の糸であれば、糸長１０ｍあたりの長さ３ｍｍ以上の毛羽数が５０個以下である。また、洗濯での揉み処理を繰り返しても吹き出ししない好ましい毛羽の状態は、毛羽の長さ１ｍｍ以上の毛羽数が５０〜１０００個である。より好ましくは、長さ３ｍｍ以上の毛羽数が１０個以下、長さ１ｍｍ以上の毛羽数が３００個以下、さらにより好ましくは長さ３ｍｍ以上の毛羽数が５個以下、長さ１ｍｍ以上の毛羽数が２５個以下である。上記範囲を超える毛羽が非常に多い紡績糸を使った場合には、編地の表面外観に影響を及ぼす可能性はある。 The number of fluffs of the spun yarn containing undyed fibers used in the present invention can be used without any problem as long as it is in the range of the number of surface fluff in a general ring spun yarn. Of course, a spun yarn with a small amount of fluff is advantageous for preventing the fluff from blowing to the surface, but the present invention can also prevent a general ring spun yarn having a lot of fluff from blowing out well. The number of fluffs of the ring spun yarn varies depending on the total fineness, twisting coefficient, and presence / absence of fried yarn, but in the case of a general normal twisted yarn, the number of fluffs having a length of 3 mm or more per 10 m of yarn length is 50. It is as follows. Moreover, the preferable state of the fluff which does not blow out even if the scouring process in washing is repeated is the number of fluff having a fluff length of 1 mm or more is 50 to 1,000. More preferably, the number of fluffs having a length of 3 mm or more is 10 or less, the number of fluffs having a length of 1 mm or more is 300 or less, and even more preferably, the number of fluffs having a length of 3 mm or more is 5 or less, and the length is 1 mm or more. The number is 25 or less. When a spun yarn having a very large amount of fluff exceeding the above range is used, the surface appearance of the knitted fabric may be affected.
本発明の紡績糸の紡績方法としては、リング精紡、ＭＶＳ、中空スピンドル精紡等が挙げられる。このうち、特にリング精紡が好ましい。糸強度が高く、糸質も良く、また細番手化も容易であり、汎用性も高いためである。 Examples of the spinning method of the spun yarn of the present invention include ring spinning, MVS, and hollow spindle spinning. Of these, ring spinning is particularly preferable. This is because the yarn strength is high, the yarn quality is good, the fine count is easy, and the versatility is high.
本発明の編物における染色されない繊維の混率は、３〜５０重量％、好ましくは５〜３０重量％、より好ましくは７〜２５重量％である。染色されない繊維の混率が上記範囲未満の場合には、目的とする機能性が得られない可能性がある。 The mixing ratio of undyed fibers in the knitted fabric of the present invention is 3 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 7 to 25% by weight. If the mixing ratio of undyed fibers is less than the above range, the intended functionality may not be obtained.
紡績糸の繊度は、英式番手で１０〜１２０番手であることが好ましく、より好ましくは２０〜６０番手である。番手が上記範囲より太い場合、編地表面に毛羽が出やすくなる。また、上記範囲より細い場合、機能繊維の混率が低くなって、機能効果が得られにくくなる。 The fineness of the spun yarn is preferably 10 to 120, and more preferably 20 to 60 in English. When the count is thicker than the above range, fluff is likely to appear on the surface of the knitted fabric. Moreover, when thinner than the said range, the mixing rate of a functional fiber becomes low and it becomes difficult to obtain a functional effect.
両面編みを構成する一対の糸は、特に限定しないが、それぞれ同じ糸であることが好ましい。一対の糸がそれぞれ繊度が違ったり、物性が違うと裏面の染色しない繊維を隠蔽する効果が低下しやすくなる場合がある。また、両面編みの糸は、裏面に配置する染色されない繊維を含む紡績糸に比べて糸の繊度が５０〜３００％であることが好ましい。より好ましくは７０％〜２００％、更に好ましくは８０〜１５０％である。表面を構成する糸の繊度が上記範囲未満になると、裏面の染色しない繊維の毛羽が表面に現れ易くなる。また、上記範囲を超えると、機能繊維の混率が低くなり過ぎて効果が得られにくくなる。 The pair of yarns constituting the double-sided knitting is not particularly limited, but each is preferably the same yarn. If the pair of yarns have different fineness or different physical properties, the effect of concealing the undyed fiber on the back surface may be easily reduced. The double-sided knitted yarn preferably has a yarn fineness of 50 to 300% as compared to a spun yarn containing undyed fibers arranged on the back surface. More preferably, it is 70% to 200%, and still more preferably 80 to 150%. When the fineness of the yarn constituting the surface is less than the above range, the fluff of undyed fibers on the back surface tends to appear on the surface. On the other hand, if the above range is exceeded, the mixing ratio of the functional fibers becomes too low, and it becomes difficult to obtain the effect.
両面編みに用いる糸の繊維素材（染色繊維）は、一般的な汎用繊維なら何でも使用でき、特に限定されない。例えば、ポリエステル、ナイロン、アクリルのような合成繊維、レーヨン、キュプラ、ポリノジック、溶剤紡糸セルロース等の再生繊維、アセテートのような半合成繊維、綿、麻等のセルロース繊維、羊毛や他の獣毛繊維、絹等の天然繊維を用いることができる。 The fiber material (dyed fiber) of the yarn used for double-sided knitting can be any general general-purpose fiber, and is not particularly limited. For example, synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon and acrylic, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, polynosic, solvent-spun cellulose, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, cellulose fibers such as cotton and hemp, wool and other animal hair fibers Natural fibers such as silk can be used.
また、両面編みを構成する糸は紡績糸であっても、長繊維であっても、複合糸であっても構わないが、これが紡績糸の場合は、沸水収縮率差が１０％以上異なる異収縮繊維を混用した紡績糸にするのが好ましい。より好ましくは、沸水収縮率差は１５〜５０％である。沸水収縮率差が上記数値以上異なる異収縮繊維を混用すると、収縮差が発現したときに糸内に空隙ができてバルキーな糸になり、染色されない繊維を隠蔽する効果が高まる。編物の目付に対して厚みが大きくなるため、軽い編地を作ることができ、着用快適性が向上する。 In addition, the yarn constituting the double-sided knitting may be a spun yarn, a long fiber, or a composite yarn, but in the case of a spun yarn, the difference in boiling water shrinkage is different by 10% or more. It is preferable to use a spun yarn mixed with shrink fibers. More preferably, the boiling water shrinkage difference is 15 to 50%. When different shrinkage fibers having different boiling water shrinkage differences by more than the above values are mixed, voids are formed in the yarn when the shrinkage difference is developed, resulting in a bulky yarn, and the effect of concealing undyed fibers is enhanced. Since the thickness increases with respect to the basis weight of the knitted fabric, a light knitted fabric can be made, and the wearing comfort is improved.
また、両面編みを構成する糸を長繊維とする場合は、捲縮加工糸であることが好ましい。捲縮加工糸とは、仮撚法、擦過法、加撚−熱固定−解撚法、押込法、賦型法、複合捲縮法、開繊混繊法等の加工糸を言うが、本発明では、仮撚法により製造した仮撚加工糸が特に好ましい。捲縮加工糸の捲縮伸長率は２５〜７０％が好ましい。更に好ましくは、捲縮伸長率は４０〜６０％である。高捲縮とすることで、表層の厚みが増して表層表面の毛羽の飛出しを効果的に防ぐことができる。捲縮伸張率が上記範囲未満では、表層表面への毛羽防止効果が低下しやすくなり、上記範囲を越える場合には、編地の風合いが粗硬になりやすい。上述の高捲縮仮撚加工糸は、従来公知の方法により製造することができ、例えばスピンドル仮撚、フリクションデイスク仮撚、ベルト仮撚等の仮撚加工法を採用することができる。 Moreover, when making the thread | yarn which comprises double-sided knitting into a long fiber, it is preferable that it is a crimped yarn. Crimped yarn refers to processed yarns such as false twisting method, rubbing method, twisting-heat setting-untwisting method, indentation method, shaping method, composite crimping method, fiber opening blending method, etc. In the invention, a false twisted yarn produced by a false twist method is particularly preferable. The crimp elongation rate of the crimped yarn is preferably 25 to 70%. More preferably, the crimp elongation is 40 to 60%. By making the crimp high, the thickness of the surface layer can be increased and the fluffing of the surface layer surface can be effectively prevented. If the crimp extension is less than the above range, the effect of preventing fluff on the surface of the surface layer tends to be reduced, and if it exceeds the above range, the texture of the knitted fabric tends to be coarse. The above-mentioned highly crimped false twisted yarn can be produced by a conventionally known method. For example, a false twisting method such as spindle false twist, friction disk false twist, or belt false twist can be adopted.
本発明の編物の製編において、編機のゲージは高いほど染色されない毛羽の隠蔽性を上げることができる。糸の太さにより使えるゲージは限定されるが、インナー用途に好適に使える編地向けにはゲージは２０〜４６Ｇ／インチが好適である。より好適には２１〜４１Ｇ／インチである。上記範囲より低いゲージでは、隠蔽性が低下するおそれがあり、上記範囲を超えると、非常に緻密な生地になるが、より細い糸を使う必要があり、製編性も低下しやすくなる。 In the knitting of the knitted fabric of the present invention, the higher the gauge of the knitting machine, the higher the hiding property of the fuzz that is not dyed. Although the gauge that can be used is limited depending on the thickness of the yarn, the gauge is preferably 20 to 46 G / inch for a knitted fabric that can be suitably used for inner use. More preferably, it is 21 to 41 G / inch. If the gauge is lower than the above range, the concealability may be lowered, and if it exceeds the above range, a very dense fabric is obtained, but it is necessary to use a thinner thread, and the knitting property tends to be lowered.
本発明の編物は、染色されない繊維を含む紡績糸を、隣接する両側の両面編組織で挟み込んだ緻密な組織になっている。この両面編み組織は一対の２本の糸で１コースとなる。表面からみたときのコース密度は、両面編みを構成する糸の太さで変化するが、例えば英式番手３０〜４５ｓ（１９７〜１３１ｄｔｅｘ）の場合、２０コース／インチ以上とするのが好ましい。より好ましくは２５〜４０コース／インチである。コース密度が上記範囲を下回ると裏側の染色しない繊維の毛羽が面に現れやすくなる。また、表面から見たときのウエール密度は、２０〜５０ウエール／インチが好適であり、さらには３０〜４０ウエール／インチが好適である。ウエール密度が上記範囲を下回っても裏面の染色しない繊維が吹き出しやすくなる。また、英式番手４６〜７０ｓ（１３０〜８４ｄｔｅｘ）の場合、３０コース／インチ以上とするのが好ましい。より好ましくは３５〜６０コース／インチである。コース密度が上記範囲を下回ると裏側の染色しない繊維の毛羽が面に現れやすくなる。また、ウエール密度は３０〜７０ウエール／インチが好適であり、さらには３５〜６０ウエール／インチが好適である。ウエール密度が上記範囲を下回っても裏面の染色しない繊維が吹き出しやすくなる。 The knitted fabric of the present invention has a dense structure in which a spun yarn including undyed fibers is sandwiched between adjacent double-sided knitted structures. This double-sided knitting structure forms one course with a pair of two yarns. The course density when viewed from the surface varies depending on the thickness of the yarn constituting the double-sided knitting. For example, in the case of English count 30 to 45 s (197 to 131 dtex), it is preferably 20 course / inch or more. More preferably, it is 25 to 40 course / inch. When the course density is lower than the above range, the fluff of undyed fibers on the back side tends to appear on the surface. Moreover, 20-50 wales / inch is suitable for the wal density when viewed from the surface, and 30-40 wales / inch is more suitable. Even if the wale density falls below the above range, fibers that are not dyed on the back surface are easily blown out. In the case of English counts of 46 to 70 s (130 to 84 dtex), it is preferably 30 courses / inch or more. More preferably, it is 35 to 60 courses / inch. When the course density is lower than the above range, the fluff of undyed fibers on the back side tends to appear on the surface. Moreover, 30-70 wales / inch is suitable for a wal density, Furthermore, 35-60 wales / inch is suitable. Even if the wale density falls below the above range, fibers that are not dyed on the back surface are easily blown out.
本発明の編物は、一般的な丸編地の染色加工条件で加工すればよく、特に限定されない。本発明の編地を染色した場合に染色されない毛羽が目立たず綺麗な目面になるが、起毛するとそれが顕著になる。例えば、針布起毛して毛足が長いと優雅で深みのある色調になるが、このときに染色されない毛羽が目立つと高級感が台無しになる。しかし、本発明では、表面に染色されない毛羽が殆ど見えないので、優雅で深みのある目面を表現することが可能である。 The knitted fabric of the present invention may be processed under general circular knitted fabric dyeing conditions, and is not particularly limited. When the knitted fabric of the present invention is dyed, the fuzz that is not dyed becomes inconspicuous and has a beautiful eye surface. For example, if the fleece is raised and the hairs are long, the color tone becomes graceful and deep, but if fuzz that is not dyed is noticeable at this time, the sense of quality is spoiled. However, in the present invention, since fuzz that is not dyed on the surface is hardly visible, it is possible to express an elegant and deep eye surface.
本発明の編物の表層表面では、上述したように目視で観察したときにほとんど毛羽がみられないか、または目立たないことが特徴である。実施例に記載の表面毛羽の平均毛羽密度で見た場合、本発明の編物の表面で観察される染色されない繊維の毛羽数は、１ｃｍ２あたり１５個以下、より好ましくは１０個以下、特に好ましくは５個以下となる。また、１０回の繰り返し洗濯後においても、本発明の編物の表層表面は綺麗であり、観察される染色されない繊維の毛羽数は、１ｃｍ２あたり１８個以下、より好ましくは１２個以下、特に好ましくは８個以下と優れている。 The surface layer surface of the knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized in that fuzz is hardly observed or noticeable when visually observed as described above. When viewed with the average fluff density of the surface fluff described in the examples, the number of fluffs of undyed fibers observed on the surface of the knitted fabric of the present invention is 15 or less per cm 2 , more preferably 10 or less, particularly preferably Is 5 or less. Further, even after 10 times of laundering, the surface of the knitted fabric of the present invention has a beautiful surface, and the number of fluffs of unstained fibers observed is 18 or less per 1 cm 2 , more preferably 12 or less, particularly preferably. Is excellent with 8 or less.
また、本発明の編物は、ダイヤロックを採用した場合、ＪＩＳ−Ｌ−１０９６のＢ法（定荷重法）で測定した伸度が、タテ・ヨコの平均で７０％以上と伸縮性に富む。この特性は、編物に柔軟性をもたらし、特に肌の動きに追随することが必要なインナー等の衣類では重要な特性である。 Moreover, when the knitted fabric of this invention employs a diamond lock, the elongation measured by the JIS-L-1096 method B (constant load method) is 70% or more on the average of length and width, and is highly stretchable. This characteristic is an important characteristic for garments such as an inner that needs to bring flexibility to the knitted fabric and need to follow the movement of the skin.
本発明の編物は、綺麗な染め面を要求される用途で使用されることが好ましく、衣料用途、主にインナー用途、シャツ等のミドラー用途等に好適に用いられる。そのため着用感を考慮して、目付は１００〜２５０ｇ／ｍ２の範囲が好ましく、特に１５０〜２２０ｇ／ｍ２が好ましい。厚みは０．６〜２．０ｍｍが好ましく、特に１．０〜１．５ｍｍが好ましい。更に軽量感に関係する嵩高性は６．１５〜８．５ｃｍ３／ｇが好ましく、特に６．３〜８．０ｃｍ３／ｇが好ましい。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably used for applications requiring a beautiful dyed surface, and is suitably used for apparel applications, mainly inner applications, midler applications such as shirts, and the like. Therefore in view of the feeling of wearing, the basis weight is preferably in the range of 100 to 250 g / m 2, in particular 150~220g / m 2 is preferred. The thickness is preferably 0.6 to 2.0 mm, particularly preferably 1.0 to 1.5 mm. Further bulkiness associated with lightness is 6.15~8.5cm 3 / g are preferred, particularly 6.3~8.0cm 3 / g are preferred.
本発明の編物をインナー用途に使用する場合の好適な伸度は、タテ、ヨコの伸度の平均が６０〜１２０％、より好ましくは７０〜１００％である。伸度の平均が上記範囲を下回ると、身体の動きに追随しずらく、運動したときに不快になりやすい。上記範囲を超えると、編地の表面に染色しない繊維の毛羽が発生しやすくなる。また、本発明の編物のタテ、ヨコの伸長回復率の平均は８５％以上が好ましい。より好ましくは９０〜１００％である。本発明の編物は、このように伸長回復率が優れるので保形性が良好であり、運動した後のシルエットも良好である。 When the knitted fabric of the present invention is used for inner use, the average of the vertical and horizontal elongation is 60 to 120%, more preferably 70 to 100%. When the average elongation is below the above range, it is difficult to follow the movement of the body, and it is likely to become uncomfortable when exercising. When the above range is exceeded, fiber fluff that is not dyed on the surface of the knitted fabric tends to occur. Further, the average of the recovery rate of warp and width of the knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 85% or more. More preferably, it is 90 to 100%. Since the knitted fabric of the present invention has an excellent elongation recovery rate, the shape retention is good, and the silhouette after exercise is also good.
次に、実施例及び比較例を用いて本発明を具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれらに限定されるものではない。本発明で用いた各特性値の測定法は以下の通りである。 Next, the present invention will be specifically described using Examples and Comparative Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these. The measuring method of each characteristic value used in the present invention is as follows.
＜紡績糸の番手＞
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ−１０９５−９．４．１の一般紡績糸試験法の正量テックス・番手測定の綿番手測定方法に準拠して測定した。
<Count of spun yarn>
It measured based on the cotton count measurement method of the correct amount tex and count measurement of the general spun yarn test method of JIS-L-1095-9.4.1.
＜捲縮伸長率（％）＞
適度なテンション調整装置を有するラップリール（周長１．１２５ｍ）を用い、１／１０（ｇ／ｄ）の荷重をかけて８巻きの綛を作る。これをフックにかけ、１００℃の熱水中に無荷重の状態で５分間浸漬し、この試料を熱水中より取り出し湿潤状態のまま（２／１０）×８×２×表示デニールのｇ数の荷重をかけ、１分後の長さａを測定する。次に、荷重を取り除き、無荷重の状態でフックにかけたまま６０±２℃の乾燥機で３０分間乾燥し、標準状態の試験室に１時間以上放置し、次に（２／１０００）×８×２×表示デニールのｇ数の初荷重をかけ、１分後の長さｂを測る。以下の式により、上記のａ、ｂを用いて捲縮伸長率を算出する。試験回数は２回とし、その平均値で表わす（小数点以下１桁まで）。
捲縮伸長率（％）＝［（ａ−ｂ）／ａ］×１００
<Crimp elongation (%)>
Using a lap reel (circumferential length: 1.125 m) having an appropriate tension adjusting device, a load of 1/10 (g / d) is applied to make an 8-wind kite. This is put on a hook and immersed in hot water at 100 ° C. for 5 minutes under no load. The sample is taken out of hot water and left in a wet state (2/10) × 8 × 2 × g of display denier g. Apply a load and measure the length a after 1 minute. Next, the load is removed, and it is dried with a dryer at 60 ± 2 ° C. for 30 minutes while being applied to the hook in an unloaded state, left in a standard test room for 1 hour or longer, and then (2/1000) × 8 Apply an initial load of g × 2 × display denier and measure the length b after 1 minute. The crimp expansion rate is calculated using the above-mentioned formulas a and b. The number of tests is 2 times and is expressed as the average value (up to one decimal place).
Crimp elongation (%) = [(ab) / a] × 100
＜沸水収縮率＞
繊維のトウを把持板に固定して１０ｍｇ／ｄの荷重をかけ１ｍの長さにマークする。１００℃×１５分のスチーミング後マークした長さＬ（ｃｍ）を測定し、次式によって沸水収縮率を算出する。
沸水収縮率＝［（１００−Ｌ）／１００］×１００（％）
<Boiling water shrinkage>
The fiber tow is fixed to the holding plate, a load of 10 mg / d is applied, and a length of 1 m is marked. The length L (cm) marked after steaming at 100 ° C. × 15 minutes is measured, and the boiling water shrinkage is calculated by the following equation.
Boiling water shrinkage = [(100−L) / 100] × 100 (%)
＜繊維の混率＞
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ１０３０−２の混用率試験法（溶解法により測定）に準拠して測定した。
<Fiber mixing ratio>
It measured based on the mixed rate test method (measured by the dissolution method) of JIS-L1030-2.
＜編地の厚み＞
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ１０１８−８．５．１ 編地の厚さに準拠して測定した。
<Thickness of knitted fabric>
It measured based on the thickness of JIS-L1018-8.5.1 knitted fabric.
＜編地の密度＞
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ１０１８−８．８ 密度に準拠して測定した。
<Density of knitted fabric>
It measured based on JIS-L1018-8.8 density.
＜編地の目付＞
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ１０１８−８．４．２ 標準状態における単位面積当たりの質量に準拠して測定した。
<Weight of knitted fabric>
It measured based on the mass per unit area in a JIS-L1018-8.4.2 standard state.
＜編物の嵩高性＞
編物の厚みと目付の測定値を用いて以下の式により嵩高性を算出した。
嵩高性（ｃｍ３／ｇ）＝｛編地の厚み（ｍｍ）／編地の目付（ｇ／ｍ２）｝×１０００
<Bulkness of knitted fabric>
The bulkiness was calculated by the following equation using the measured thickness and basis weight of the knitted fabric.
Bulkiness (cm 3 / g) = {thickness of knitted fabric (mm) / weight of knitted fabric (g / m 2 )} × 1000
＜洗濯条件＞
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ０２１７−１０３法に従って洗濯した。乾燥は吊干しした。
<Washing conditions>
Washing was performed according to JIS-L0217-103 method. The drying was suspended.
＜編地表面の染色しない繊維の毛羽数＞
（株）キーエンス製のデジタルマイクロスコープＶＨＸ−５０００を用いて編地表面に対して垂直にカメラをセットして観察し、倍率を５０〜２００倍で写真撮影した。写真に１０００μｍのメジャー（線）を表示させて、編地表面１ｃｍ２内にある染色しない繊維の毛羽数を数えた。場所を変えて３回写真撮影して、数えた毛羽数の平均値を求めた。また、洗濯処理を１０回行った場合も同様に写真撮影して染色しない繊維の表面毛羽数を数えた。
表面毛羽が目立たない品位として、１ｃｍ２内に毛羽数の平均値が１５個以下のものを○と判定した。若干毛羽が目立つ１６〜２０個のものを△、毛羽が非常に目立って表面品位が悪い２１個以上のものを×として評価した。参考として、図８に染色しない繊維の毛羽数０個／ｃｍ２のときの編物の表面写真、図９に毛羽数１６個／ｃｍ２の表面写真、図１０に毛羽数２７個／ｃｍ２の表面写真を示す。
<Number of fuzz of fibers not dyed on the knitted fabric surface>
Using a digital microscope VHX-5000 manufactured by Keyence Corporation, a camera was set perpendicularly to the surface of the knitted fabric and observed, and a photograph was taken at a magnification of 50 to 200 times. A 1000 μm measure (line) was displayed on the photograph, and the number of fluffs of undyed fibers within 1 cm 2 of the knitted fabric surface was counted. The photograph was taken three times at different locations, and the average number of fluffs counted was determined. In addition, when the washing treatment was performed 10 times, the number of surface fluffs of fibers not photographed and counted was counted in the same manner.
As the quality in which the surface fluff is not conspicuous, the case where the average value of the number of fluffs in 1 cm 2 is 15 or less was judged as ◯. The evaluation was evaluated as Δ for 16-20 pieces having slightly noticeable fluff, and X for those having 21 or more pieces having very poor fuzz and poor surface quality. For reference, FIG. 8 shows a surface photograph of a knitted fabric when the number of fluffs of the undyed fiber is 0 / cm 2 , FIG. 9 shows a surface photograph of the number of fluffs 16 / cm 2 , and FIG. 10 shows a number of fluffs 27 / cm 2 . A surface photograph is shown.
＜伸長性および伸長回復性＞
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ１０９６−８．１６．１伸び率 Ｄ法（定荷重法）、および８．１６．２伸長回復率 Ｅ法（繰り返し定荷重法）を繰返し回数１回にて測定した。
<Extension and extension recovery>
JIS-L1096-8.16.1 elongation rate D method (constant load method) and 8.16.2 elongation recovery rate E method (repetitive constant load method) were measured at the number of repetitions of once.
＜柔軟性＞
１０人のモニターで編物の柔軟性を比較評価した。編物の柔軟性は、実施例１の仕上がり品を◎とし、比較例５の柔軟性を×として、実施例１の仕上試料より少し柔軟性が劣る場合は○、比較例５より柔軟性はあるが柔軟性が乏しい場合は△として４段階評価とした。
<Flexibility>
The flexibility of the knitted fabric was comparatively evaluated with 10 monitors. As for the flexibility of the knitted fabric, the finished product of Example 1 is ◎, the flexibility of Comparative Example 5 is ×, and the flexibility is slightly worse than the finished sample of Example 1; However, when the flexibility is poor, a 4-point evaluation was made as Δ.
＜表面ソリッド感＞
編地表面の色の均一性を目視評価し、均一性の高いものから良好、悪い、非常に悪いの３段階評価を行った。
<Surface solid feeling>
The uniformity of the color on the surface of the knitted fabric was visually evaluated, and a three-level evaluation was performed from a high uniformity to a good, bad, and very bad.
実施例１
日本エクスラン工業製のアクリル短繊維（単繊維繊度１．０ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ、沸水収縮率２％、タイプＫ８６２）６０重量％と、レンチング社製 ハイウエットモジュラスレーヨン「モダール（登録商標）」（単繊維繊度１．２ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ）４０重量％をＯＨＡＲＡ製混綿機を用いて混綿した。引き続き石川製作所製カード機を用いてカードスライバーとし、原織機製練条機に２回通して２５０ゲレン／６ｙｄのスライバーを得た。更に、このスライバーを豊田自動織機製粗紡機に通して１００ゲレン／１５ｙｄの粗糸を作成した。そして、豊田自動織機製リング精紡機を用いてドラフト３３倍、トラベラ回転数９０００ｒｐｍで紡出して英式番手４０′ｓの紡績糸１を得た。そのときの撚係数（Ｋ）は３．８（撚数２９．４Ｔ／ｉｎｃｈ）であった。
Example 1
60% by weight of acrylic short fibers (single fiber fineness 1.0dtex, fiber length 38mm, boiling water shrinkage 2%, type K862) manufactured by Nippon Exlan Industries, and high-wet modulus rayon “Modal (registered trademark)” (single) 40% by weight (fiber fineness: 1.2 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm) was mixed using an OHARA blender. Subsequently, a card sliver was obtained using a card machine manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho, and a sliver of 250 gelen / 6 yd was obtained by passing twice through a loom mill. Further, this sliver was passed through a Toyoda Automatic Loom roving machine to produce a roving of 100 gelen / 15 yd. Then, using a ring spinning machine manufactured by Toyota Industries Corporation, spinning was performed at a draft of 33 times and a traveler rotation speed of 9000 rpm to obtain a spun yarn 1 having an English count of 40's. The twist coefficient (K) at that time was 3.8 (twist number 29.4 T / inch).
染色しない糸として、日本エスクラン工業製の吸放湿繊維“エクス”（アクリレート繊維、単繊維繊度２．０ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３７ｍｍ、２０℃６５％ＲＨでの水分率２７％、タイプＧ５０Ｈ−２．０Ｔ）３０重量％と、レンチング社製「モダール（登録商標）」（単繊維繊度１．２ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ）７０重量％を紡績糸１と同様にして紡績して英式番手４０′ｓの紡績糸２を得た。 As an undyed yarn, moisture absorbing / releasing fiber "EX" (Escranic fiber, single fiber fineness 2.0dtex, fiber length 37mm, moisture content 27% at 20 ° C 65% RH, type G50H-2.0T ) 30% by weight and 70% by weight of "Modal (registered trademark)" (single fiber fineness 1.2 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) manufactured by Lenzing Co., Ltd. Yarn 2 was obtained.
紡績糸１の２本を両面編みとし、紡績糸２を裏にオールニットに交互編みして図１の組織のダイヤロックを編製した。編機は３０インチ−２２ゲージ ＬＰＪ（福原精機製）を使用した。この編地における裏面の紡績糸の混率は３４重量％、染色しない繊維（アクリレート）の混率は１０重量％であった。この編地を精練後、レーヨンを反応染料（Ｄｒｉｍａｒｅｎｅ Ｂｌａｃｋ Ｐ−ＢＬＮ）で黒色に染色した後、アクリルをカチオン染料（Ｋａｙａｃｒｙｌ Ｂｌａｃｋ Ｒ−ＥＤ）で黒色に染色して開反・仕上を行って、アクリレート繊維を編地の肌側に含んだ吸放湿快適な編地を作製した。この編地の詳細と評価結果を表１に示す。以下の実施例、比較例の編地についても同様に詳細と評価結果を表１に示す。 The two yarns 1 of the spun yarn 1 were knitted on both sides, and the yarn 2 having the structure shown in FIG. The knitting machine used was a 30 inch-22 gauge LPJ (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki). The mixing ratio of the spun yarn on the back surface of this knitted fabric was 34% by weight, and the mixing ratio of the undyed fiber (acrylate) was 10% by weight. After scouring this knitted fabric, rayon is dyed black with reactive dye (Drimarene Black P-BLN), then acrylic is dyed black with cationic dye (Kayacryl Black R-ED), and then opened and finished. A knitted fabric comfortable to absorb and release moisture containing acrylate fibers on the skin side of the knitted fabric was prepared. The details of the knitted fabric and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1. The details and evaluation results are also shown in Table 1 for the knitted fabrics of the following examples and comparative examples.
実施例２
酸化チタンを０．５重量％練り込まれた、丸断面の８４ｄｔｅｘ、フィラメント数４８のポリエステルフィラメントを三菱重工製スピンドル仮撚機ＬＳ−６を用いて、１ヒーターにて仮撚り加工して捲縮伸長率５０％の仮撚加工糸１を作製した。
Example 2
A polyester filament with a round cross-section of 84dtex and 48 filaments kneaded with 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide is false twisted by false twisting with one heater using Mitsubishi Heavy Industries spindle false twisting machine LS-6. A false twisted yarn 1 having an elongation rate of 50% was produced.
染色しない繊維として、東洋紡製ポリフェニレンサルファイド繊維「プロコン」（単繊維繊度２．２ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長５１ｍｍ）３０重量％と、超長綿「スーピマ」７０重量％を用いて，混綿混紡した後、カードスライバーとし、練条機に２回通して２５０ゲレン／６ｙｄのスライバーとした。更に、このスライバーから６０ゲレン／１５ｙｄの粗糸を作成した。そして、精紡機を用いてドラフト４０倍、トラベラ回転数９０００ｒｐｍで紡出して英式番手６０′ｓの紡績糸３を得た。そのときの撚係数（Ｋ）は３．８（撚数２９．４Ｔ／ｉｎｃｈ）であった。 Card sliver after blending with Toyobo polyphenylene sulfide fiber “Procon” (single fiber fineness 2.2 dtex, fiber length 51 mm) 30% by weight and super-long cotton “Supima” 70% by weight And passed through the drawing machine twice to make a 250 selenium / 6 yd sliver. Further, 60 selenium / 15 yd roving was prepared from this sliver. Then, using a spinning machine, spinning was performed at a draft of 40 times and a traveler rotation speed of 9000 rpm to obtain a spun yarn 3 having an English count of 60's. The twist coefficient (K) at that time was 3.8 (twist number 29.4 T / inch).
この仮撚加工糸を両面編みに用い、上記紡績糸３を裏面に配してダイヤロック組織（図１）にて製編した。編機は３０インチ−３２ゲージ ＬＩＬ−８（福原精機製）を使用した。紡績糸３の編地内混率は３７重量％、プロコンの編地内混率は１１重量％であった。この編地を開反して、プレセット・精練・漂白後、ポリエステルを分散染料（Ｄｉａｎｉｘ Ｂｌａｃｋ Ｋ−Ｂ）で、綿を反応染料（Ｄｒｉｍａｒｅｎｅ Ｂｌａｃｋ Ｐ−ＢＬＮ）で黒色に染色した後、柔軟剤を付与してファイナルセットして、プロコンを肌側に用いた接触温感の高い編地を仕上げた。 The false twisted yarn was used for double-sided knitting, and the spun yarn 3 was arranged on the back surface and knitted with a diamond lock structure (FIG. 1). As the knitting machine, 30 inch-32 gauge LIL-8 (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki) was used. The mixing ratio of the spun yarn 3 in the knitted fabric was 37% by weight, and the mixing ratio of the procon in the knitted fabric was 11% by weight. After opening this knitted fabric, pre-setting, scouring and bleaching, dyeing polyester with disperse dye (Dianix Black K-B) and cotton with reactive dye (Drimarene Black P-BLN) in black, then softening agent A final knitted fabric with high contact temperature using Procon on the skin side was finished.
実施例３
実施例１の編地の染色後、起毛油剤を付与して、開反後に表面を針布起毛した。その後、テンターで仕上げた。
Example 3
After dyeing the knitted fabric of Example 1, a brushed oil was applied, and the surface was brushed after opening. Then, it finished with a tenter.
実施例４
実施例１の紡績糸２をオールニットにせず、図２に記載のように１ウエール毎にウエルトを配置したウエルト−ニット組織として裏面に配置した以外は、実施例１と同様に製編して染色加工を行って編地を仕上げた。
Example 4
The spun yarn 2 of Example 1 is not all-knit, but is knitted in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the spun yarn 2 is arranged on the back surface as a welt-knit structure in which welts are arranged for each wale as shown in FIG. The knitted fabric was finished by dyeing.
実施例５
日本エクスラン工業製の高収縮アクリル短繊維（単繊維繊度１．０ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ、沸水収縮率１８％、タイプＫ８１７）４０重量％と、日本エクスラン工業製のアクリル短繊維（単繊維繊度１．０ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ、沸水収縮率２％、タイプＫ８６２）２０重量％を用いて、紡績糸中のアクリル繊維の混率を６０重量％とした以外は紡績糸１と同じ方法で英式番手４０′ｓの紡績糸４を得た。紡績糸１の代わりに紡績糸４を両面編み部に用いて交編した以外は、実施例１と同様に編立て、染色加工を行って編地を仕上げた。
Example 5
Highly shrinkable acrylic short fiber (single fiber fineness 1.0 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, boiling water shrinkage 18%, type K817) 40% by weight made by Nippon Exlan Industry, and acrylic short fiber (single fiber fineness 1. 0 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, boiling water shrinkage 2%, type K862) 20% by weight, and the mixture ratio of acrylic fibers in the spun yarn was changed to 60% by weight. s spun yarn 4 was obtained. The knitted fabric was finished by knitting and dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the spun yarn 4 was used instead of the spun yarn 1 for the double-sided knitting portion and knit.
実施例６
染色しない繊維としてダイワボウ製のポリプロピレン短繊維（単繊維繊度１．６ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３５ｍｍ）６０重量％と、レンチング社製「モダール（登録商標）」（単繊維繊度１．２ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ）４０重量％を用いて、紡績糸２と同様にして紡績して英式番手４０′ｓの紡績糸５を得た。紡績糸２の代わりに紡績糸５を裏面に配置した以外は、実施例１と同様に編立て、染色加工を行って接触温感と保温性に優れる編地を仕上げた。
Example 6
Daiwabo short polypropylene fibers (single fiber fineness 1.6 dtex, fiber length 35 mm) 60% by weight as non-dyed fibers, and “Modal (registered trademark)” (single fiber fineness 1.2 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) 40 manufactured by Lenzing Co., Ltd. 40 Spinning was performed in the same manner as the spun yarn 2 using% by weight to obtain a spun yarn 5 having an English count of 40's. Except that the spun yarn 5 was arranged on the back surface in place of the spun yarn 2, knitting and dyeing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to finish a knitted fabric excellent in contact warmth and heat retention.
実施例７
染色しない繊維として“プロコン”（単繊維繊度２．２ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長５１ｍｍ）を１００重量％用いた以外は、紡績糸２と同様に紡績して英式番手４０′ｓの紡績糸６を得た。紡績糸２の代わりに紡績糸６を裏面に配置した以外は、実施例１と同様に編立て、染色加工を行って編地を仕上げた。
Example 7
Spinning yarn 6 having an English count of 40's was obtained by spinning in the same manner as spinning yarn 2 except that 100% by weight of "Procon" (single fiber fineness 2.2 dtex, fiber length 51 mm) was used as the undyed fiber. . The knitted fabric was finished by knitting and dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the spun yarn 6 was disposed on the back surface instead of the spun yarn 2.
比較例１
編組織をダイヤロックの代わりに図３のタックリバースにした以外は、実施例１と同様に編み立て、染色加工を行って編地を仕上げた。紡績糸２は、図３のＦ３に使用して編み上げた。仕上がった編地は、エクス繊維の毛羽が表面に多く現れて埃が付着したように見えて、均一で深みのある黒色にならなかった。
Comparative Example 1
The knitted fabric was finished by knitting and dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitting structure was changed to the tack reverse of FIG. 3 instead of the diamond lock. The spun yarn 2 was knitted using F3 in FIG. The finished knitted fabric did not become uniform and deep black, with a lot of ex-fiber fluff appearing on the surface and appearing to be dusty.
比較例２
編組織をダイヤロックの代わりに図４のモックロディにした以外は、実施例１と同様に編み立て、染色加工を行って編地を仕上げた。この際、表面のウエルト−ニット（Ｆ００）は紡績糸１を用いて、裏側のウエルト−ニット（Ｆ２、Ｆ５）にのみ紡績糸２を用いて編み立てた。仕上がった編地は、エクス繊維の毛羽が表面に多く現れて埃が付着したように見えて、均一で深みのある黒色にならなかった。また、この編地は、伸度が少ない編地となり、身体の動きに追随する柔軟性は得られなかった。
Comparative Example 2
The knitted fabric was finished by knitting and dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitting structure was changed to the mock-rod shown in FIG. 4 instead of the diamond lock. At this time, the surface welt-knit (F00) was knitted using the spun yarn 1 and only the back side welt-knit (F2, F5) using the spun yarn 2. The finished knitted fabric did not become uniform and deep black, with a lot of ex-fiber fluff appearing on the surface and appearing to be dusty. Moreover, this knitted fabric became a knitted fabric with low elongation, and the flexibility to follow the movement of the body could not be obtained.
比較例３
編組織をダイヤロックの代わりに図５のポンチローマにした以外は、実施例１と同様に編み立て、染色加工を行って編地を仕上げた。この際、表面のオールニット（天竺部Ｆ００）は紡績糸１を用いて、裏側のオールニット（天竺部Ｆ２）にのみ紡績糸２を用いて編み立てた。仕上がった編地は、表面のエクス繊維の毛羽が目立って綺麗な黒色にはならなかった。また、この編地には伸縮性はあるが、厚みと目付が高すぎてアウターに使用できてもインナー用途には目付的に使い難いものとなった。
Comparative Example 3
The knitted fabric was finished by knitting and dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitting structure was changed to the ponchiroma shown in FIG. 5 instead of the diamond lock. At this time, the spun yarn 1 was used for the all-knit surface (tensile part F00) on the surface, and the spun yarn 2 was used only for the all-knit part on the back side (tensile part F2). The finished knitted fabric did not become beautiful black due to the outstanding fluff of the ex fiber on the surface. Further, although this knitted fabric has elasticity, the thickness and basis weight are too high, and even if it can be used for the outer, it is difficult to use for the inner purpose.
比較例４
編組織をダイヤロックの代わりに図６のモックロイヤルにした以外は、実施例１と同様に編み立て、染色加工を行って編地を仕上げた。この際、裏面の一対のウエルト−ニット（Ｆ２）に紡績糸２を用いて編み立てた。仕上がった編地は、表面のエクス繊維の毛羽が目立って綺麗な黒色にはならなかった。また、この編地も伸度が少なく、柔軟な編地ではなかった。
Comparative Example 4
The knitted fabric was finished by knitting and dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitting structure was changed to the mock royal of FIG. 6 instead of the diamond lock. At this time, the pair of welt-knits (F2) on the back surface was knitted using the spun yarn 2. The finished knitted fabric did not become beautiful black due to the outstanding fluff of the ex fiber on the surface. In addition, this knitted fabric also had a low elongation and was not a flexible knitted fabric.
比較例５
編組織をダイヤロックの代わりに図７のウエルトリップルにした以外は、実施例１と同様に編み立て、染色加工を行って編地を仕上げた。この際、裏面の２対のウエルト−ニット（Ｆ１、Ｆ２、Ｆ３、Ｆ４）に紡績糸２を用いて編み立てた。仕上がった編地の表面には、エクス繊維の毛羽が非常に多く、綺麗な黒色にはならなかった。また、この編地も伸度が少なく、柔軟な編地にはならなかった。
Comparative Example 5
A knitted fabric was finished by knitting and dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitting structure was changed to the well triple shown in FIG. 7 instead of the diamond lock. At this time, two pairs of welt-knits (F1, F2, F3, F4) on the back surface were knitted using the spun yarn 2. The surface of the finished knitted fabric had a lot of fluff of ex fiber and did not become beautiful black. Further, this knitted fabric also had a low elongation and did not become a flexible knitted fabric.
本発明の編物は、表面側が非常に緻密な構造を形成し、その結果、表面側から染色されない繊維がほとんど見えず、さらには洗濯を繰り返しても表面側に露出することがないため、均一で綺麗な表面品位を保持することができる。 The knitted fabric of the present invention forms a very dense structure on the surface side, and as a result, fibers that are not dyed from the surface side are hardly visible, and further, it is not exposed to the surface side even after repeated washing. A beautiful surface quality can be maintained.
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| WO2018066481A1 (en) * | 2016-10-05 | 2018-04-12 | 日本エクスラン工業株式会社 | Spun yarn having excellent lightweight properties/bulkiness and excellent pilling resistance, and fabric containing said spun yarn |
| JP2018096001A (en) * | 2016-12-14 | 2018-06-21 | 帝人株式会社 | Air-conditioning garment |
| JP2018096003A (en) * | 2016-12-15 | 2018-06-21 | 帝人株式会社 | Garment having heating or cooling function |
| WO2018113766A1 (en) * | 2016-12-23 | 2018-06-28 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Filling body and use thereof |
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| JP6556974B1 (en) * | 2018-01-29 | 2019-08-07 | ダイワボウホールディングス株式会社 | Spun yarn, method for producing the same, and fabric including the same |
| CN108754803B (en) * | 2018-06-11 | 2021-04-06 | 江苏聚杰微纤科技集团股份有限公司 | Production method of weft-knitted suede fabric with double-color vertical bar appearance |
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