CN114941192A - Core-unexposed yarn and jean fabric - Google Patents
Core-unexposed yarn and jean fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN114941192A CN114941192A CN202210717812.2A CN202210717812A CN114941192A CN 114941192 A CN114941192 A CN 114941192A CN 202210717812 A CN202210717812 A CN 202210717812A CN 114941192 A CN114941192 A CN 114941192A
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- elastic
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 141
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 120
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 83
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims description 21
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 229920002972 Acrylic fiber Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 abstract description 27
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- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 abstract description 24
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- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 174
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 19
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 15
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 description 15
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 13
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- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 12
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- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 3
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- ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorine atom Chemical compound [Cl] ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- NLHHRLWOUZZQLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylonitrile Chemical compound C=CC#N NLHHRLWOUZZQLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000000177 Indigofera tinctoria Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- HGINCPLSRVDWNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylaldehyde Natural products C=CC=O HGINCPLSRVDWNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229940097275 indigo Drugs 0.000 description 1
- COHYTHOBJLSHDF-BUHFOSPRSA-N indigo dye Chemical compound N\1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C/1=C1/C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2N1 COHYTHOBJLSHDF-BUHFOSPRSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000007774 longterm Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002940 repellent Effects 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
- D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
The application relates to the field of textile fabrics, discloses a yarn and denim fabric of core do not reveal, the yarn of core does not reveal includes: at least one inner yarn; at least one outer layer filament composed of chemical fiber filaments; the outer layer filaments are coated on the outer surface of the inner layer yarns; the weight of the inner layer yarn accounts for less than 60% of the weight of the yarn without the exposed core. The yarn of core is not revealed to this application, surface that outer filament can evenly wrap at the inlayer yarn covers the surface of inlayer yarn completely. When the yarn without the exposed core is adopted to weave the jean fabric, the damage to the yarn at the inner layer caused by the friction between the yarn and machinery in the weaving process and the chemical treatment in the treatment process of the subsequent washing procedure can be effectively reduced under the protection wrapping of the filament at the outer layer, and the problem of the exposed core of the jean fabric can be solved.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to the field of textile fabrics, and mainly relates to a core-unexposed yarn and a denim fabric.
Background
The jeans wear is erected on the stage of fashion wear through one hundred years of development and is deeply loved by consumers, the unique fading style of the jeans wear imitating the old and returning to the ancient becomes an element of fashion design and an indispensable element in the design process of designers, the fading style is a key influence factor for endowing the jeans wear with extra added value, the fabric is faded through the washing process, the jeans wear is endowed with a changeable style, the culture of the jeans wear is durable, and the jeans wear is always chased.
The traditional jean fabric is formed by interweaving warps and white wefts up and down by adopting indigo pure cotton yarns, with the improvement of society and the improvement of living standard of people, people pursue clothes not only by the style of the clothes, but also pay more attention to the wearing comfort, the elastic jean fabric is developed and applied to the manufacturing and production of jean clothes, the jean clothes are endowed with excellent elastic performance, and the clothes are endowed with small constraint feeling on the human body by the excellent ductility in the wearing motion process, so that the wearing motion comfort is achieved. In the production process of the elastic denim fabric, elastic yarns are adopted for weaving, such as single core-spun yarns and double core-spun yarns, wherein the core layer of the core-spun yarns is elastic filaments, and the outer layer of the core-spun yarns is short fibers for coating. In the preparation process of the core-spun yarn, the elastic filaments of the core layer are improperly controlled or the technological parameters are improperly set, the elastic filaments of the core layer cannot be completely coated by the short fibers of the outer layer, and friction exists between the core-spun yarn and a machine in the weaving process, so that the elastic denim fabric woven by the core-spun yarn has the quality defect of exposed core.
Because the surface of the denim fabric is generally blue (indigo dye) or black (sulfur black dye), white can be exposed on the surface of the denim fabric at the exposed core position, so that irreparable quality problems are caused, and the denim fabric cannot be sold. Furthermore, the jeans wear made of jeans fabric needs to be treated by washing procedures (enzyme bleaching, chlorine bleaching and oxygen bleaching), the treatments have destructiveness on natural fibers, regenerated cellulose fibers and dyes, and the chlorine bleaching damages spandex, so the washing procedure and process conditions need to be strictly controlled, the risk of slippery elasticity is reduced, and particularly, the seam of trousers is easy to wrinkle due to slippery elasticity, and the beauty and quality of the wear are seriously affected.
In the prior art, the technical problem is solved by mainly modifying the structure of spandex by adopting the spandex with an anti-skid bullet, but other properties of the spandex can be changed correspondingly, so that the property of the spandex is reduced; also, technicians can fully wrap the core yarn by the outer layer short fibers by adjusting the core-spun yarn process, but the friction between the yarn and a machine in the weaving process and the damage to the yarn in the washing process cannot be avoided, so that the probability of the quality problems of core exposure and even slipping and bouncing is still high.
Accordingly, the prior art is yet to be improved and developed.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the defects of the prior art, the present application aims to provide a yarn without core exposure and a denim fabric, and aims to solve the problem that the core exposure is easy to occur when the existing core-spun yarn is used for preparing the denim fabric.
The technical scheme of the application is as follows:
a core-unexposed yarn, comprising:
at least one inner yarn;
at least one outer layer filament composed of chemical fiber filaments;
the outer layer filaments are coated on the outer surface of the inner layer yarns;
the weight of the inner layer yarn accounts for less than 60% of the weight of the yarn of the non-exposed core.
The yarn of core is not revealed to this application, and inlayer yarn occupies certain volume and space, when outer filament and inlayer yarn adopted this quality proportion, can ensure that outer filament can twine the surface at the inlayer yarn uniformly, covers the surface of inlayer yarn completely. Under the protection and wrapping of the outer layer filaments, the damage to the inner layer yarns caused by the friction between the inner layer yarns and the machine in the weaving process and the chemical treatment in the subsequent washing process can be effectively reduced, and the core exposure problem of the denim fabric can be solved.
The yarn without the exposed core is characterized in that the yarn in the inner layer yarn is elastic yarn or inelastic yarn.
When the yarns in the inner layer yarns are non-elastic yarns, the yarns without exposed cores adopting the structure can solve the problem of exposed cores and the problem of the shrinkage of the core-spun yarns. When the yarns in the inner layer yarns are elastic yarns, the yarns without exposed cores adopting the structure can solve the problems of exposed cores and shrinkage, and can also solve the problem of smooth elasticity of the elastic fabric.
The yarn without exposing the core, wherein when the yarn in the inner layer yarn is the inelastic yarn, the inelastic yarn is pure spun yarn, blended yarn or core-spun yarn.
The yarn without the exposed core is characterized in that when the yarn in the inner layer yarn is the elastic yarn, the elastic yarn is a core-spun yarn, the core-spun yarn comprises at least one elastic yarn, and the outer surface of the elastic yarn is coated with short fibers.
The core-unexposed yarn is characterized in that the twist coefficient of the covering yarn is 3.5-6.0, and the wrapping twist degree when the outer layer filament wraps the inner layer yarn is 500-1300 twist/m.
The yarn without the exposed core is characterized in that the inner layer yarn consists of at least one covering yarn, at least one chemical fiber filament and at least one stretch yarn;
in the inner layer yarn, the elastic elongation of the elastic yarn is more than 200%, the elastic elongation of the chemical fiber filament is less than or equal to 30%, and the elastic elongation of the elastic yarn of the core-spun yarn is 200-800%.
The yarn without the exposed core is characterized in that in the inner layer yarn, the number of the covering yarn is 32-60S, the number of D of stretch yarns in the covering yarn is 20-150D, and short fibers of the outer layer of the covering yarn comprise 40-50% of cotton fibers, 20-30% of chinlon and 20-30% of acrylon according to mass percentage.
The yarn without the exposed core, wherein the outer layer filament consists of at least one chemical fiber filament and at least one elastic yarn;
in the outer layer filament, the elastic performance of the chemical fiber filament is 5-25%, and the elastic performance of the stretch yarn is 200-600%.
The yarn without core exposure is characterized in that the number D of the chemical fiber filaments in the outer layer filaments is 2 times of the number D of the stretch yarns.
The denim fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein the denim fabric comprises at least one yarn with the non-exposed core as the warp yarns or the weft yarns.
Has the beneficial effects that: the yarn of core is not revealed to this application, surface that outer layer filament can be wrapped at the inlayer yarn evenly, covers the surface of inlayer yarn completely. When the yarn without the exposed core is adopted to weave the jean fabric, the damage to the yarn at the inner layer caused by the friction between the yarn and machinery in the weaving process and the chemical treatment in the treatment process of the subsequent washing procedure can be effectively reduced under the protection wrapping of the filament at the outer layer, and the problem of the exposed core of the jean fabric can be solved.
Detailed Description
The present application provides a core-unexposed yarn and a denim fabric, and the purpose, technical scheme and effect of the present application are clearer and clearer, and the present application is further described in detail below. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the present application and are not intended to limit the present application.
The application provides a yarn of not revealing core includes:
at least one inner yarn;
at least one outer layer filament composed of chemical fiber filaments;
the outer layer filaments are coated on the outer surface of the inner layer yarns;
the weight of the yarns of the inner layer is 60% or less, preferably 40% or less, more preferably 30% or less of the weight of the yarns of the entire unexposed core.
The yarn of core that does not expose that this application provided, nexine yarn occupy certain volume and space, when outer filament and nexine yarn adopted this quality proportion, can ensure that outer filament wraps the surface at nexine yarn uniformly, covers the surface of nexine yarn completely. When the yarn without the exposed core is adopted to weave the jean fabric, the damage to the yarn at the inner layer caused by the friction between the yarn and machinery in the weaving process and the chemical treatment in the treatment process of the subsequent washing procedure can be effectively reduced under the protection wrapping of the filament at the outer layer, and the problem of the exposed core of the jean fabric can be solved.
Meanwhile, the outer layer filament is limited to be composed of at least one chemical fiber filament, the moisture absorption performance of the chemical fiber filament is poor, and after the outer layer filament is coated on the outer surface of the inner layer yarn, the yarn without core exposure is difficult to transfer relatively when being treated in post-finishing and washing procedures, so that the fabric shrinkage rate is controlled stably and slightly without a plurality of low-tension treatment processes. The outer layer filament is a polymer filament, the outer layer filament is uniformly coated on the inner layer yarn, so that the inner layer yarn is in a closed coating space, the water absorption of the outer layer filament is poor due to the characteristic of the outer layer filament, if polypropylene is close to 0, terylene is 0.4% and the like, the water repellency is embodied to a certain extent, and therefore the shrinkage of the yarn without core exposure is small in the after-finishing process, the water shrinkage rate of the yarn is small, and the width of the fabric obtained by weaving is relatively wide. Therefore, the core-unexposed yarn adopting the structure can solve the problem of the shrinkage rate of the core-spun yarn.
Moreover, the chemical fiber filaments of the outer layer filaments have smooth surfaces, so that the yarns without the exposed cores have smooth surfaces and comfortable handfeel after the outer layer filaments are coated on the outer surface of the inner layer yarns. Moreover, the outer layer filament can adopt chemical fiber filament with the functions of antibiosis, moisture conduction or cool feeling, and the like, and can meet the performance required when the yarn without the exposed core is adopted as weft.
The yarn of core is not revealed to this application, and the mode cladding of outer layer long filament accessible gas bag or machine package is on the nexine yarn, and the preferred machine package can realize the even cladding of outer layer long filament on the nexine yarn.
One, the inner layer yarn
In the present embodiment, the yarns in the inner layer yarns may be elastic yarns or inelastic yarns.
When the yarn in the inner layer yarn is the inelastic yarn, the inelastic yarn can be pure spun yarn, blended yarn or core-spun yarn. Preferably, the twist multiplier of the inner yarn is 3.5-6.0, preferably 4.0-5.2, and the wrapping twist of the outer filaments when wrapping the inner yarn is 500-. When the inelastic yarn is pure spun yarn, the inelastic yarn can be pure cotton yarn; when the non-elastic yarn is blended yarn, the non-elastic yarn can be cotton blended yarn of cotton fiber and one or more than two of tencel, modal, fibrilia, terylene or nylon. When the inelastic yarn is a pure or blended yarn, the count is 20S to 100S, preferably 32S to 60S. When the inelastic yarn is a core-spun yarn, the outer fiber can be pure cotton fiber, or the outer fiber can be one or more than two of cotton fiber and tencel, modal, fibrilia, terylene or nylon, and the core yarn is one of polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, polyethylene fiber, and the like. Preferably, the core yarn may be polyester or nylon. When the inelastic yarn is a core yarn, the count may be 16 to 80S, preferably 21 to 60S, and the D number of the core yarn may be 20 to 200D. The outer layer filament is a polymer filament, the outer layer filament is uniformly coated on the inner layer yarn, so that the inner layer yarn is in a closed coating space, the water absorption of the outer layer filament is poor due to the characteristic of the outer layer filament, if polypropylene is close to 0, terylene is 0.4% and the like, the water repellency is embodied to a certain extent, and therefore the shrinkage of the yarn without core exposure is small in the after-finishing process, the water shrinkage rate of the yarn is small, and the width of the fabric obtained by weaving is relatively wide.
When the yarn in the inner layer yarn is elastic yarn, preferably, the elastic yarn is core-spun yarn, and the core-spun yarn comprises at least one elastic yarn, and the outer surface of the elastic yarn is covered with short fiber. The core-spun yarn can enable the yarn without core exposure to have certain elastic performance, so that the woven jean fabric has certain elastic performance and certain ductility, the wearing comfort is achieved, and the restraint feeling on a human body is small.
When the yarn in the inner layer yarn is an elastic yarn and the elastic yarn is a covering yarn, the twist factor of the inner layer yarn is preferably 3.5-6.0, preferably 4.0-5.2, and the wrapping twist of the outer layer filament wrapping the inner layer yarn is 500-. In this preferred embodiment, the elastic yarn has a high twist multiplier and the outer filaments have a low tightness upon spiral wrapping. When the yarns in the inner layer of yarns are elastic yarns, the yarn twisting coefficient is large, the degree of internal and external transfer between the outer layer of fibers is large during twisting, the fibers are held tightly, the friction force between the fibers in the yarns is increased, the short fibers can tightly wrap the inner layer of elastic yarns, and the shrinkage rate of the fabric is effectively reduced. The outer surface of the inner layer yarn is spirally coated by the outer layer filament yarn consisting of at least one chemical fiber filament yarn, the outer layer filament yarn can be uniformly coated on the outer surface of the inner layer yarn, the chemical fiber filament yarn is poor in water absorption performance and small in washing size change, when the chemical fiber filament yarn is coated on the inner layer, the chemical fiber filament yarn is relatively tightly coated, and the water repellent performance characteristic is embodied on a certain length, so that when the chemical fiber filament yarn is used for manufacturing the fabric, the shrinkage rate is stably controlled and is small, the shrinkage rate of the yarn which does not expose the core in the after finishing process is small, the shrinkage rate is small, the width of the fabric obtained by weaving is relatively wide, and the elastic fabric can have the effects of elasticity and low shrinkage rate without being processed through additional multiple processes. Meanwhile, the chemical fiber filament spiral wrapping core-spun yarn can completely cover the core-spun yarn, the core layer elastic yarn in the core-spun yarn can be effectively prevented from being exposed, and when the manufactured jeans wear is treated by a washing procedure, the outer layer filament covers the core-spun yarn, so that the influence of chemical substances in the washing procedure on the core layer elastic yarn in the core-spun yarn can be reduced, and the structure of the core layer elastic yarn in the core-spun yarn cannot be damaged. Because the outer layer filament is spirally coated on the core-spun yarn, the influence of the washing procedure on the core-spun yarn is small, and a plurality of washing procedures can be adopted for treatment, so that more fading styles are given to the jeans wear, and the antique style of the jeans wear is met.
Further, when the yarn in the inner yarn is elastic yarn and the elastic yarn is core yarn, the count of the core yarn can be 16-70S, and the D number of the elastic yarn of the core yarn can be 20-300D. Further, the core spun yarn in the inner layer yarn, the stretch yarn is a polymer, and may include one of polyurethane, polyolefin, and rubber filament, preferably spandex. The short fiber of the outer layer is natural fiber, or is a blended fiber of natural fiber and chemical fiber, the natural fiber can be cotton fiber, hemp fiber, wool fiber, etc., the chemical fiber can be regenerated cellulose fiber or polymer fiber, such as tencel, modal, viscose fiber, terylene, chinlon, etc.
When the conventional jean fabric uses filaments as weft yarns, the filaments are generally directly woven, and due to the structural characteristics of the filaments, the woven jean fabric has a flat bottom surface and a cool feeling of the filaments, but the fabric is difficult to embody the antique and antique style after being treated by a washing process, and cannot meet the requirements of jean clothes. In the scheme of the application, when the yarn without the exposed core is used as weft yarn and warp yarn to be interwoven into the denim fabric, the outer-layer filament yarns spirally and tightly wrap the inner-layer yarn, the twist coefficient of the inner-layer elastic yarn is large, the fibers are tightly embraced, and in the after-finishing treatment process, the elastic yarn is tightly embraced among the fibers, so that a small amount of fibers can be transferred in the treatment process, the fibers are more tightly embraced, gaps between the inner-layer yarn and the outer-layer filament yarns are slightly increased, the tightness degree between the outer-layer filament yarns and the inner-layer yarn is relatively reduced, and the elastic yarn can be freely stretched relatively when the yarn without the exposed core is stretched, and meanwhile, the outer-layer filament yarns can limit the stretching of the yarn, so that the excellent recovery performance is provided. And moreover, the elastic yarns are high in twist and can retract, and the elastic yarns can be irregularly twisted due to high elasticity and twist coefficient in the outer layer filaments, so that the jean fabric can endow the jean clothes with an irregular retro effect after being washed and treated. In addition, by adopting the yarns without the exposed cores as the weft yarns, when most of the bottom layer of the denim fabric is weft tissue points, the contact area of the outer layer filaments and the skin is large, and discomfort can not be caused when the outer layer filaments are in contact with the skin. In addition, the problem of slipping and bouncing can not occur in any water washing process, and the problem of core exposure can not occur on the surface of the denim fabric, so that the quality of the denim fabric is effectively improved.
More preferably, the inner yarn is composed of at least one core spun yarn, at least one chemical fiber filament and at least one stretch yarn. Preferably, in the inner layer yarn, the twist factor of the core-spun yarn is 3.5 to 6.0, preferably 4.0 to 5.2, and the wrapping twist of the outer layer filament covering the inner layer yarn is 500-1300 twist/m. Wherein the elastic elongation of the elastic yarn is more than 200%, the elastic elongation of the chemical fiber filament is less than or equal to 30%, and the elastic elongation of the elastic yarn of the core-spun yarn is 200-800%. The core-spun yarn, the chemical fiber filament and the stretch yarn can form an inner layer yarn in a side-by-side or doubling mode, and then the outer layer filament is wound and coated on the outer surface of the inner layer yarn. Preferably, the chemical fiber filaments of the inner yarn are firstly coated with the stretch yarns, then are arranged side by side or are doubled with the covering yarns to form the inner yarn, and finally the outer filaments are wound and coated on the outer surface of the inner yarn, wherein the winding twist can be 500-1300 twist/m. The inner layer yarn adopts the combination of the covering yarn, the chemical fiber filament and the stretch yarn, the shrinkage rate of the yarn without exposing the core can be controlled stably and little, the elastic recovery rate is high, and after the yarn is stretched for a long time, the yarn cannot be arched due to the weakening of the elastic recovery performance of the yarn, so that the bottom surface of the fabric is uneven and the fabric feels uncomfortable. Preferably, in the inner layer yarn, the number of the covering yarn is 32-60S, the number of D of the stretch yarn in the covering yarn is 20-150D, the outer layer short fiber of the covering yarn comprises 40-50% of cotton fiber, 20-30% of nylon and 20-30% of acrylic fiber according to the mass percentage, and the cotton fiber, the nylon and the nylon are processed into the yarn according to a certain proportion due to the poor moisture absorption of the nylon and the acrylic fiber. Because the inner layer adopts the core-spun yarn, the outer layer of the core-spun yarn adopts specific fiber components and proportion as the short fiber of the outer layer, and the different characteristics of various fibers are utilized, the quality of the yarn made of the short fiber of the outer layer is stable, and the fibers are tightly held and are difficult to transfer mutually. Meanwhile, the chemical fiber filament is adopted to wrap the elastic yarn, so that the elastic yarn is wrapped by the chemical fiber filament and then is arranged side by side or intertwined with the covering yarn, and the chemical fiber filament is wrapped by the outer filament together with the covering yarn, so that the structure of the inner layer yarn can be effectively protected from being damaged, the elastic yarn in the inner layer yarn is wrapped, the protection effect can be better played, the strength of the chemical fiber filament in the inner layer yarn is high, the wear resistance is strong, and the stability of the size line of the fabric is effectively ensured. When this application does not reveal the yarn of core by tensile, effect when the chemical fiber filament of outer filament and nexine yarn, can effectively prevent not revealing the yarn of core by further tensile, make outer filament cladding effect be difficult for being destroyed, in long-term use, still keep not revealing the structure of the yarn of core not destroyed to the problem of core and the destroyed condition of the stretch yarn structure do not appear. And the stretch yarn is coated by multiple layers, so that the quality problem of slipping and bouncing can be effectively prevented, and the outer layer of filament yarn is coated, so that the slippage between fibers can be effectively controlled, and the shrinkage of the denim fabric can be effectively reduced. And the nylon and the acrylic fibers have smooth surfaces, the combined cotton fibers and the chemical fiber filaments have relatively smooth surfaces, the surface of the inner layer yarn can be uniformly wrapped when the outer layer filaments are wrapped, the twisting amplitude of the fibers in the yarn is increased due to the twisting of the yarn when the covering yarn, the chemical fiber filaments and the elastic filaments are wrapped, the yarn is in uneven kinks, the wrapping effect of the outer layer filaments is seriously influenced, and the nylon and the acrylic fibers have certain ductility, can provide certain ductility when the composite yarn is made into a fabric, and have excellent resilience, so that the problem of slippery and elastic phenomenon cannot occur when the fabric made of the composite yarn is stretched for a long time to a certain extent. Specifically, in the inner layer yarn, the chemical fiber filament is a polymer, preferably, the chemical fiber filament includes but is not limited to one of terylene and chinlon, and the stretch yarn is a polymer, and may include one of polyurethane, polyolefin and rubber filament, preferably spandex. Preferably, in the inner layer yarn, the number D of the chemical fiber filaments is 40D-300D, the number D of the stretch yarn is 20D-150D, more preferably, the number D of the chemical fiber filaments is 40D-150D, and the number D of the stretch yarn is 20D-75D, the preferable scheme is mainly adopted to enable the chemical fiber filaments to uniformly coat the stretch yarn, so that the stretch yarn is not easily damaged and provides a certain strength, and in the stretching process, the inner layer yarn and the yarn containing the unexposed core of the inner layer yarn are prevented from being stretched due to the effect of the chemical fiber filaments, so that the yarn containing the unexposed core has excellent recovery performance, and the chemical fiber filaments have relatively smooth surfaces, so that when the inner layer yarn is coated by the outer layer filaments, the yarns can be wrapped more tightly, the structure of the yarn containing the unexposed core is effectively ensured not to be easily damaged, and the quality problems of the exposed core and smooth elasticity of the manufactured jean fabric are effectively prevented, and can effectively ensure that the shrinkage rate of the fabric is stable and small.
Second, outer layer filament
In the embodiment of the application, the denier of the chemical fiber filament in the outer layer filament is 40-600D, preferably 75-300D, and more preferably 100-200D. With the adoption of the chemical fiber filament in the denier range, the inner layer yarn can be better and uniformly coated, and the strength can be provided for the yarn without exposing the core.
Further, the outer layer filament comprises at least one chemical fiber filament, the chemical fiber filament in the outer layer filament is a polymer, and preferably, the chemical fiber filament comprises but is not limited to one of terylene and nylon.
More preferably, the outer filaments are composed of at least one chemical fiber filament and at least one stretch yarn. The chemical fiber filaments in the outer layer filaments uniformly coat the stretch yarns in the outer layer filaments in the middle to form a core-spun yarn structure, and then the inner layer yarns are wound and coated. In the outer layer filament, the twisting twist of the elastic filament covered by the chemical fiber filament can be 500-1300 twist/m. The stretch yarn in the outer layer filament is polymer and can comprise one of polyurethane, polyolefin and rubber filament, and spandex is preferred. The chemical fiber filaments and the stretch yarns in the outer layer filaments form composite filaments in the wrapping equipment, and then the inner layer yarns are wrapped in a winding mode. In the outer layer filament, the elastic performance of the chemical fiber filament is 5-25%, and the elastic performance of the stretch yarn is 200-600%. The outer layer filaments are the combination of chemical fiber filaments and stretch yarns, and have excellent recovery performance, so that the denim fabric has certain extensibility and can recover when being stretched, and a comfortable effect is achieved. Preferably, in the outer layer filament, the number D of the chemical fiber filament is 150D, the number D of the stretch yarn is 75D, and the number D of the chemical fiber filament is 2 times of the number D of the stretch yarn, so that the stretch yarn is uniformly coated in the middle of the chemical fiber filament.
The denim fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein the denim fabric comprises at least one piece of the non-exposed yarn as the warp yarns or the weft yarns in the denim fabric. After the jean fabric is subjected to washing treatment, irregular retro effect can be given to jean clothes. In addition, in any washing process, the problem of core exposure does not occur on the surface of the denim fabric, the shrinkage rate is low, and the problem of slipping and elasticity does not occur, so that the quality of the denim fabric is effectively improved. Preferably, the weft of the denim fabric adopts the yarn without the exposed core, the yarn without the exposed core is adopted as the weft, and when most of the bottom layer of the denim fabric is weft tissue points, the contact area of the outer layer filament and the skin is large, so that discomfort can not be caused when the outer layer filament is in contact with the skin.
The present application is further illustrated by the following specific examples.
Example 1 (inner layer yarn: single, pure, non-elastic; outer layer filament: chemical fiber filament)
The embodiment provides a denim fabric, the organizational structure is 3/1 twills, the warp adopts 8S pure cotton yarn (the twist coefficient is 3.5), the woof adopts the yarn of core that does not expose, this yarn of core that does not expose in the inlayer yarn be a 32S pure cotton yarn (the twist coefficient is 4.0), outer filament is a 150D polyester filament (elastic elongation is 5%), the package twist degree when outer filament cladding inlayer yarn is 1000 twists with fingers/m, the weight of inlayer yarn accounts for 35% of whole yarn weight of core that does not expose.
Carrying out after-finishing treatment on the fabric, wherein the after-finishing process comprises the following steps:
singeing: singeing the fabric in a singeing machine by adopting a front singeing mode at the temperature of 400 ℃ and two fire rows at the speed of 80 m/min;
desizing: desizing the fabric in a desizing machine, wherein the fabric is washed by two desizing tanks and three times of clear water, 10g/L desizing enzyme and 2g/L penetrant are added into the desizing tanks, the treatment temperature is 50 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 65 m/min;
pre-shrinking: pre-shrinking the fabric in a pre-shrinking machine, wherein the compression amount of a blanket is 16 percent, and the drying temperature of a drying cylinder is 110 ℃.
The denim fabric prepared in the embodiment is tested, and the shrinkage rate test is based on the following standard: AATCC 135 one 2015 fabric home laundering size was changed and core exposure was observed visually. The test result shows that the jean fabric has no core exposure phenomenon, and the shrinkage is-4.5%.
Example 2 (inner layer yarn: single, blended, no stretch; outer layer filament: chemical fiber filament)
The denim fabric provided in the embodiment has the same fabric weave structure and yarn selection as those in embodiment 1, and is different in that the weft yarn adopts a yarn without an exposed core, the inner layer yarn is a 32S blended yarn (the twist coefficient is 4.0), the blended yarn is formed by blending cotton fibers and polyester staple fibers (the blending mass ratio of the cotton fibers to the polyester staple fibers is 50/50), the outer layer filament is the same as that in embodiment 1, the wrapping twist degree of the outer layer filament when the inner layer yarn is wrapped by the outer layer filament is 1000 twists/m, and the weight of the inner layer yarn accounts for 35% of the weight of the whole yarn without the exposed core.
The fabric is subjected to after-finishing treatment, and the after-finishing process is the same as that of the example 1.
The denim fabric prepared in this example was tested, and the shrinkage test was based on the following criteria: AATCC 135 one 2015 fabric home laundering size was changed and core exposure was observed visually. The test result shows that the jean fabric has no core exposure phenomenon, and the shrinkage rate is-3.6%.
Example 3 (inner layer yarn: Single, core spun, No stretch; outer layer filament: chemical fiber filament)
The denim fabric provided in the embodiment has the same fabric weave structure and yarn selection as those in embodiment 1, and is different in that weft yarns are made of yarns without exposing the core, the inner layer yarn is a core-spun yarn, 32S pure cotton is wrapped with 40D terylene (the twist coefficient is 4.0), the outer layer filament is the same as that in embodiment 1, the wrapping twist degree of the outer layer filament when wrapping the inner layer yarn is 1000 twists/m, and the weight of the inner layer yarn accounts for 35% of the weight of the whole yarns without exposing the core.
The fabric is subjected to after-finishing treatment, and the after-finishing process is the same as that of the example 1.
The denim fabric prepared in the embodiment is tested, and the shrinkage rate test is based on the following standard: AATCC 135 one 2015 fabric home laundering size was changed and core exposure was observed visually. The test result shows that the jean fabric has no core exposure phenomenon, and the shrinkage is-4.6%.
Example 4 (inner layer yarn: Single, core spun, elastic; outer layer filament: chemical fiber filament)
The denim fabric provided in the embodiment has the same fabric weave structure and yarn selection as those in embodiment 1, and is different in that the weft yarn is a yarn without exposing the core, the inner layer yarn is a core-spun yarn, a 32S pure cotton yarn is wrapped with 40D spandex (elastic elongation is 300%), the twist coefficient is 4.0, the outer layer filament is the same as that in embodiment 1, the wrapping twist degree when the inner layer yarn is wrapped with the outer layer filament is 1000 twists/m, and the weight of the inner layer yarn accounts for 35% of the weight of the whole yarn without exposing the core.
The fabric is subjected to after-finishing treatment, and the after-finishing process is the same as that of the example 1.
The denim fabric prepared in the embodiment is tested, and the shrinkage rate test is based on the following standard: AATCC 135 one 2015 fabric home laundering size was changed and core exposure was observed visually. The test result shows that the jean fabric has no core exposure phenomenon, and the shrinkage is-4.8%. The elastic recovery rate of the jean fabric is 96.8%. The jeans wear made of the jeans fabric has no slippery and elastic quality problem after being treated by a washing process.
Example 5 (inner layer yarn: Single, core spun, elastic; outer layer filament: chemical fiber filament + stretch yarn)
The denim fabric provided in the embodiment has the same fabric weave structure and yarn selection as those in embodiment 4, and is different in that weft yarns are made of non-exposed yarns, outer filaments of the denim fabric are made of a chemical fiber filament and an elastic yarn, the chemical fiber filament and the elastic yarn are 150D terylene (elastic elongation is 5%) coated with 40D spandex (elastic elongation is 300%), the twist coefficient is 4.0, the inner yarn is the same as that in embodiment 4, the wrapping twist degree of the outer filament coated with the inner yarn is 1000 twists/m, and the weight of the inner yarn accounts for 35% of the weight of the whole non-exposed yarns.
The fabric is subjected to after-finishing treatment, and the after-finishing process is the same as that of the example 1.
The denim fabric prepared in the embodiment is tested, and the shrinkage rate test is based on the following standard: AATCC 135 one 2015 fabric home laundering size was changed and core exposure was observed visually. The test result shows that the jean fabric has no core exposure phenomenon, and the shrinkage is-4.7%. The elastic recovery rate of the jean fabric is 96.4%. The jeans wear made of the jeans fabric has no slippery and elastic quality problem after being treated by a washing process.
Example 6 (inner layer yarn: multiple yarn, covering yarn + chemical fiber filament + elastic yarn, elastic; outer layer filament: chemical fiber filament)
The embodiment provides a denim fabric, the fabric weave structure and the yarn selection of which are the same as those in embodiment 4, the difference is that the weft yarn adopts a yarn without exposing a core, the inner layer yarn of the denim fabric consists of a core-spun yarn, a chemical fiber filament yarn and an elastic yarn, the core-spun yarn structure is the same as that in embodiment 4, the chemical fiber filament yarn and the elastic yarn are 75D terylene (elastic elongation is 5%) coated with 20D spandex (elastic elongation is 300%), the twist coefficient is 4.0, the outer layer filament yarn is the same as that in embodiment 4, the wrapping twist degree when the outer layer filament is coated on the inner layer yarn is 1000 twist/m, and the weight of the inner layer yarn accounts for 35% of the weight of the whole yarn without exposing a core.
The fabric is subjected to after-finishing treatment, and the after-finishing process is the same as that of the example 1.
The denim fabric prepared in this example was tested, and the shrinkage test was based on the following criteria: AATCC 135-2015 fabric home washing size change, and core exposure is observed by naked eyes. The test result shows that the jean fabric has no core exposure phenomenon, and the shrinkage rate is-4.1%. The elastic recovery rate of the jean fabric is 97.2%. The jeans wear made of the jeans fabric has no slippery and elastic quality problem after being treated by a washing process.
Example 7 (inner layer yarn: multiple yarn, covering yarn + chemical fiber filament + stretch yarn, elastic; outer layer filament: chemical fiber filament + stretch yarn)
The denim fabric provided in the embodiment has the same fabric weave structure and yarn selection as those in embodiment 6, and is different in that weft yarns are made of non-exposed yarns, outer filaments of the denim fabric are made of a chemical fiber filament and an elastic yarn, the chemical fiber filament and the elastic yarn are 150D terylene (elastic elongation is 5%) coated with 40D spandex (elastic elongation is 300%), the twist coefficient is 4.0, the inner yarn is the same as that in embodiment 6, the wrapping twist degree of the outer filament coated with the inner yarn is 1000 twists/m, and the weight of the inner yarn accounts for 35% of the weight of the whole non-exposed yarns.
The fabric is subjected to after-finishing treatment, and the after-finishing process is the same as that of the example 1.
The denim fabric prepared in the embodiment is tested, and the shrinkage rate test is based on the following standard: AATCC 135 one 2015 fabric home laundering size was changed and core exposure was observed visually. The test result shows that the jean fabric has no core exposure phenomenon, and the shrinkage is-3.9%. The elastic recovery rate of the jean fabric is 97.5%. The jeans wear made of the jeans fabric has no slippery and elastic quality problem after being treated by a washing process.
Example 8 (inner layer yarn: multiple yarn, covering yarn + chemical fiber filament + stretch yarn, elastic; outer layer filament: chemical fiber filament + stretch yarn)
The denim fabric provided in the embodiment has the same fabric weave structure and yarn selection as those in embodiment 7, and is different in that weft yarns adopt yarns without exposed cores, wherein an inner layer yarn is composed of a core-spun yarn, a chemical fiber filament yarn and an elastic yarn, the core-spun yarn structure is formed by using 40D spandex (elastic elongation of 300%) as the elastic yarn, blended fibers of 50% cotton fibers, 25% nylon fibers and 25% acrylic fibers are used as outer layer staple fibers, the twist coefficient of the core-spun yarn is 4.0, the chemical fiber filament yarn and the elastic yarn of the inner layer yarn are 75D terylene (elastic elongation of 5%) coated with 20D spandex (elastic elongation of 300%), the twist coefficient is 4.0, the outer layer filament yarn is the same as that in embodiment 7, the wrapping twist degree when the outer layer filament yarn is coated with the inner layer yarn is 1000 twists/m, and the weight of the inner layer yarn accounts for 35% of the weight of the whole yarns without exposed cores.
The fabric is subjected to after-finishing treatment, and the after-finishing process is the same as that of the example 1.
The denim fabric prepared in the embodiment is tested, and the shrinkage rate test is based on the following standard: AATCC 135 one 2015 fabric home laundering size was changed and core exposure was observed visually. The test result shows that the jean fabric has no core exposure phenomenon, and the shrinkage is-2.8%. The elastic recovery rate of the jean fabric is 94.6%. The jeans wear made of the jeans fabric has no slippery and elastic quality problem after being treated by a washing process.
Comparative example 1 (ordinary core spun yarn, no elasticity)
The denim fabric provided in the embodiment has the same fabric weave structure and yarn selection as those in embodiment 1, and is different in that the warp yarns are made of 10S pure cotton yarns (the twist coefficient is 3.5), and the weft yarns are made of 32S pure cotton-covered 40D polyester (the twist coefficient is 4.0).
The fabric is subjected to after-finishing treatment, and the after-finishing process is the same as that of the example 1.
The jean fabric prepared in the comparative example 1 is tested, and the shrinkage rate test is based on the following standard: AATCC 135 one 2015 fabric home laundering size was changed and core exposure was observed visually. The test result shows that the jean fabric has a core exposure phenomenon, and the shrinkage rate is-9.6%.
Comparative example 2 (plain core spun yarn, elastic)
The denim fabric provided in the embodiment has the same fabric weave structure and yarn selection as those in embodiment 1, and is different in that the warp yarns are 10S pure cotton yarns (the twist coefficient is 3.5), and the weft yarns are 32S pure cotton-covered 40D spandex (the twist coefficient is 4.0).
The fabric is subjected to after-finishing treatment, and the after-finishing process is the same as that of the example 1.
The denim fabric prepared in the comparative example 2 is tested, and the water shrinkage rate is tested according to the following standard: AATCC 135 one 2015 fabric home laundering size was changed and core exposure was observed visually. The test result shows that the core of the jean fabric is exposed, and the shrinkage rate is-10.1%. The elastic recovery rate of the jean fabric is 88.9%. After the jeans wear made of the jeans fabric is treated by a washing process, the sliding and elastic phenomena occur at the seam joint.
It should be understood that the application of the present application is not limited to the above examples, and that modifications and variations can be made by persons skilled in the art in light of the above teachings, and all such modifications and variations are intended to fall within the scope of the present application.
Claims (10)
1. A core-unexposed yarn, comprising:
at least one inner yarn;
at least one outer layer filament composed of chemical fiber filaments;
the outer layer filaments are coated on the outer surface of the inner layer yarns;
the weight of the inner layer yarn accounts for less than 60% of the weight of the yarn without the exposed core.
2. The core-unexposed yarn of claim 1, wherein the yarns in the inner yarn are stretch yarns or inelastic yarns.
3. The non-core-revealing yarn of claim 2 wherein when said yarn in said inner yarn is said inelastic yarn, said inelastic yarn is a pure spun yarn, a blended yarn or a core spun yarn.
4. The yarn of claim 2, wherein when the yarn of the inner yarn is the stretch yarn, the stretch yarn is a core spun yarn, the core spun yarn comprises at least one stretch yarn, and an outer surface of the stretch yarn is covered with staple fibers.
5. The yarn as claimed in claim 4, wherein the core-spun yarn has a twist multiplier of 3.5-6.0, and the outer filaments cover the inner yarn with a wrapping twist of 500-1300 twist/m.
6. The yarn of claim 1, wherein the inner yarn is composed of at least one core spun yarn, at least one chemical fiber filament, and at least one stretch yarn;
in the inner layer yarn, the elastic elongation of the elastic yarn is more than 200%, the elastic elongation of the chemical fiber filament is less than or equal to 30%, and the elastic elongation of the elastic yarn of the core-spun yarn is 200-800%.
7. The yarn without exposing the core as claimed in claim 6, wherein in the inner layer yarn, the number of the covering yarn is 32-60S, the number of the stretch yarn in the covering yarn is 20-150D, and the short fiber of the outer layer of the covering yarn comprises 40-50% of cotton fiber, 20-30% of nylon and 20-30% of acrylic fiber by mass percentage.
8. The core-unexposed yarn of claim 1, wherein the outer filaments are comprised of at least one chemical fiber filament and at least one stretch yarn;
in the outer layer filament, the elastic performance of the chemical fiber filament is 5-25%, and the elastic performance of the stretch yarn is 200-600%.
9. The core-unexposed yarn of claim 8, wherein the chemical fiber filaments have a D number 2 times greater than the D number of the stretch yarn in the outer filaments.
10. A denim fabric formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein the denim fabric comprises at least one non-core-exposed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 9 as the warp yarns or the weft yarns.
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