WO2022054413A1 - Spun yarn having two-layer structure, and woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The problem of the present invention is to provide a spun yarn having a two-layer structure which can be given excellent anti-pilling properties and stretchability when made into a woven or knitted fabric.　This spun yarn having a two-layer structure has a core part and a sheath part in a cross section in the direction perpendicular to the yarn longitudinal direction, wherein the core part and the sheath part are both formed of short fibers, the core part contains two-component conjugate short fibers made of poly(ethylene terephthalate) and poly(trimethylene terephthalate), the spun yarn having the two-layer structure contains the two-component conjugate short fibers at 20-70% by mass, and the property values in (1)-(3) below are all satisfied. (1) The single yarn tensile strength is at least 1.0 cN/dtex, (2) the twist coefficient K is 120-180, and (3) the hot water dimensional change rate is at least 4%.

Description

Two-layer structure spun yarn and woven and knitted fabrics

The present invention is a two-layer structure spun yarn having a core portion and a sheath portion in a cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the core portion is composed of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate). It relates to a two-layer structure spun yarn containing two-component composite staple fibers and a woven or knitted fabric obtained from the spun yarn.

Conventionally, as a fiber capable of obtaining a woven or knitted fabric having stretchability, in a spun yarn, a filament having elasticity such as polyurethane is used as a core, and natural fibers such as cotton or synthetic fiber staples are used to cover the spun yarn. Composite spun yarn is widely used.

However, polyurethane is highly embrittled by chemicals such as chlorine and has problems such as low dyeing fastness. In addition, polyurethane yarn breakage occurs frequently during the production and post-processing of woven and knitted fabrics, and the quality of the obtained woven and knitted fabrics. There is a problem that it decreases. In addition, when the obtained woven or knitted fabric is used for trousers, etc., knee slippage may occur due to deterioration of the stretch back property of polyurethane due to repeated bending and stretching of the knee. Has been done.

For the above reasons, in recent years, fibers using poly (trimethylene terephthalate) or poly (butylene terephthalate), and composite fibers in which poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (ethylene terephthalate) are bonded side by side have been developed. (See, for example, Patent Document 1).

These fibers are excellent in deterioration due to chlorine and knee slippage, which are the drawbacks of polyurethane, but because they are filaments rather than spun yarns, the resulting woven or knitted fabric has a hard texture, stretchability, and water absorption. It was also inferior in terms of comfort such as moisture absorption and moisture absorption.

Further, Patent Document 2 describes a composite fiber (long) in which poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (ethylene terephthalate) are bonded side-by-side as a spun yarn capable of obtaining a stretch fabric having a dry feeling and soft to the touch. A core spun yarn has been proposed in which a fiber) is placed in the center as a core yarn and the circumference thereof is covered with cotton staple fibers.

The core spun yarn described in Patent Document 2 can obtain a woven or knitted fabric that is soft to the touch, but since the purpose is to obtain a stretch fabric having a thin fabric and a flat feeling, it is bulky and water-absorbent. It was difficult to obtain excellent woven and knitted fabrics. In addition, since long fibers are used for the core, it is difficult to achieve both soft flexibility and stretchability.

In general, as a method for producing a core spun yarn, as described in Patent Document 3, in a spinning machine during a spinning process, a spinning machine is used while applying a constant tension to the long fiber yarn via a feed roller. A known technique is known in which a method of supplying a front roller common to a short fiber bundle in a draft process and compounding and twisting a long fiber yarn and a short fiber having a constant mass in the yarn axis direction is known. By attaching a feed roller to the spinning machine and inserting long fibers into the center of the blister yarn spun from the front roller, core spun yarn with a high coverage can be obtained, but the tension of the long fiber yarn and blister yarn fluctuates. Then, the coverage of the long fiber yarn by the short fiber also fluctuates, and the long fiber yarn forming the core portion may be exposed on the surface of the composite spun yarn, and pilling may easily occur when the fabric is made. There is.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2009-46800 Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-221743 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2008-248402

An object of the present invention is to provide a two-layer structure spun yarn capable of having excellent anti-pilling property and stretchability when made into a woven or knitted fabric.

As a result of diligent studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have decided to use a two-layer structure spun yarn using short fibers for both the core and the sheath instead of the core spun yarn using long fibers for the core. Two layers in which a specific amount of two-component composite staple fibers composed of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) is used for the core, and the single yarn tensile strength, twist coefficient K, and hot water dimensional change rate satisfy the specific range. By using the structural spun yarn, it is possible to sufficiently exhibit the bulkiness and stretchability of the two-component composite staple fiber in the core portion, and it is possible to provide excellent anti-pilling property and stretchability when made into a woven or knitted fabric. We have found that we can do it and arrived at the present invention.

That is, the present invention provides the inventions of the following aspects (a) to (h).
(B) A two-layer spun yarn having a core and a sheath in a cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn.
Both the core and the sheath are made of short fibers, and the core contains a two-component composite staple fiber composed of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate), and the two components are contained in a two-layer structure spun yarn. A two-layer structure spun yarn containing 20 to 70% by mass of composite staple fibers and satisfying all of the following characteristic values (1) to (3).
(1) Single yarn tensile strength is 1.0 cN / dtex or more (2) Twist coefficient K is 120 to 180
(3) Hot water dimensional change rate of 4.0% or more (b) Cellulose-based staple fibers are contained in the sheath, and cellulosic staple fibers are contained in the two-layer structure spun yarn in an amount of 30 to 70% by mass (a). The described two-layer structure spun yarn.
(C) The two-layer structure spun yarn according to (a), wherein the sheath portion contains animal hair fibers and the two-layer structure spun yarn contains 30 to 70% by mass of animal hair fibers.
(D) Total mass of single fibers forming the core portion: Total mass of single fibers forming the sheath portion is 30 to 70): (70 to 30, according to any one of (a) to (c). Two-layer structure spun yarn.
(E) The two according to any one of (a) to (d), wherein the two-component composite staple fiber is a composite short fiber in which poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) are bonded in a side-by-side manner. Layered spun yarn.
(F) The cross-sectional shape in the direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the two-component composite staple fiber is an oval shape having a groove on the outer periphery, and the two-component composite staple fiber is the following (a) to (e). The two-layer structure spun yarn according to (e), which satisfies all the characteristic values.
(A) Aspect ratio A: B (A is the long axis length of the cross section and B is the short axis length of the cross section) is 1.8: 1 to 1.2: 1.
(B) Single fiber fiber is 0.8-3.0 dtex
(C) Fiber length is 30 to 60 mm
(D) Tensile strength is 2.0-4.0 cN / dtex
(E) A woven fabric containing the two-layer structure spun yarn according to any one of (g), (a) to (f), wherein the number of grooves is two or more.
(H) A knitted fabric containing the two-layer structure spun yarn according to any one of (a) to (f).

The two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention uses a specific amount of two-component composite staple fibers composed of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) in the core portion, and has a single yarn tensile strength and a twist coefficient K. And by satisfying the specific range of the hot water dimensional change rate, it is possible to sufficiently develop the bulkiness and stretchability of the two-component composite staple fiber in the core, and the soft stretchability and bulkiness, A woven or knitted fabric having excellent water absorption and excellent pilling performance can be obtained.
Therefore, the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is a suitable material for both outerwear and innerwear for clothing purposes.

It is a schematic diagram which shows one Embodiment of the cross-sectional shape of the two-component composite staple fiber used for the two-layer structure spun yarn of this invention. It is a schematic schematic diagram which shows one Embodiment of the sabo spinning machine used in the manufacturing process of the two-layer structure spun yarn of this invention. It is a schematic schematic diagram which shows one Embodiment of the sabo spinning machine used in the manufacturing process of the two-layer structure spun yarn of this invention.

1. 1. Two-layer structure spun yarn The two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention is a two-layer structure spun yarn having a core portion and a sheath portion in a cross section in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the core portion and the sheath portion are formed. Both are made of short fibers, and the core contains a two-component composite short fiber composed of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate), and the two-component composite short fibers are contained in a two-layer structure spun yarn from 20 to 20. It is characterized in that it contains 70% by mass, and the single yarn tensile strength, twist coefficient K, and hot water dimensional change rate satisfy a specific range. Hereinafter, the two-layer structure spinning of the present invention will be described in detail.

[Core]
The core of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention contains a two-component composite staple fiber composed of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate). In the present invention, the "two-component composite staple fiber" is a staple fiber in which two kinds of polymers are bonded to each other in one single fiber.

The constituent polymers of the two-component composite staples used in the present invention are poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate). Since the two-component composite staple fiber used in the present invention is composed of the above two kinds of polymers, it can have the property of expressing crimp (crimp) by undergoing heat treatment (latent crimping performance). It becomes possible to impart bulkiness and stretchability to a woven or knitted fabric obtained by using the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention.

In the two-component composite staple fiber used in the present invention, the mass ratio of poly (ethylene terephthalate) / poly (trimethylene terephthalate) is preferably 35/65 to 65/35, preferably 40/60 to 60/35. It is more preferably 40.

In the two-component composite staple fiber used in the present invention, the composite form of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) is not particularly limited, but the two components of the present invention are provided with excellent latent crimping performance. Layer structure From the viewpoint of further improving the stretchability of woven and knitted yarns obtained by using spun yarn, it is a side-by-side type, that is, a structure in which poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) are bonded to each other in a side-by-side type. Is preferable.

When the two-component composite short fiber used in the present invention is a side-by-side type, the cross-sectional shape in the direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction (hereinafter, may be simply referred to as “cross-sectional shape”) is an egg-shaped shape. It is preferable that the egg-shaped outer periphery has a groove. The number of grooves is preferably two or more, and above all, a snowman-shaped cross-sectional shape having two grooves is preferable. Here, the "snowman-shaped cross-sectional shape having two grooves" is specifically an egg-shaped shape formed by laminating poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) in a side-by-side manner. On the outer periphery, a recess (groove portion) is provided in the outer peripheral portion of the joint portion between poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate), and examples thereof include the cross-sectional shape shown in FIG. By having a cross-sectional shape having such a groove portion, crimping is more likely to occur.

When the two-component composite short fiber used in the present invention is a side-by-side type, the aspect ratio (A: B) of the cross-sectional major axis length A and the cross-sectional minor axis length B in the cross-sectional shape is not particularly limited, but the aspect ratio. (A: B) is preferably 1.8: 1 to 1.2: 1, more preferably 1.6: 1 to 1.4: 1. When the aspect ratio (A: B) satisfies the above range, it is possible to provide sufficient latent crimping performance, while also improving the rigidity of the developed crimping to provide excellent stretchback property. Here, the cross-sectional long axis length A refers to the length of the longest line segment among the line segments connecting the end portions of the cross-sectional shape, and the cross-sectional short axis length B is a line obtained by obtaining the cross-sectional long axis length. It refers to the length of a line segment that connects the ends of a straight line that passes through the midpoint of a minute and is orthogonal to the major axis length. A and the cross-sectional short axis length B are as shown in FIG.

The single fiber fineness of the two-component composite staples used in the present invention is preferably 0.8 to 3.0 dtex, and in particular, the stretch of the woven or knitted fabric obtained by using the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention. From the viewpoint of resilience and texture, 1.7 to 2.2 dtex is preferable. Here, the single fiber fineness of the two-component composite short fiber conforms to the method described in "a) Method A" of "8.5.1 Positive amount fineness" of JIS L 1015: 2010 "Chemical fiber staple test method". It is a value measured by.

The fiber length of the two-component composite staple fiber used in the present invention may be appropriately adjusted depending on the type of staple fiber used for the sheath portion, but is preferably 20 to 50 mm, preferably 25 to 50 mm. More preferred. Here, the fiber length of the two-component composite short fiber is described in "a) Staple diagram method (A method)" of "8.4.1 Average fiber length" of JIS L 1015: 2010 "Chemical fiber staple test method". It is a value measured according to the method of.

Further, the tensile strength of the two-component composite staple fiber used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 2.0 to 4.0 cN / dtex, and is preferably 3.0 to 4.0 cN / dtex. It is more preferable to have. By satisfying such tensile strength, sufficient strength is imparted to the two-layer structure spun yarn, yarn breakage is less likely to occur during the production of the woven and knitted fabric, and sufficient strength and anti-pilling property are suitable for the obtained woven and knitted fabric. It will be possible to prepare for. Here, the tensile strength of the two-component composite short fiber is described in "8.7.1 Standard time test" of "8.7 Tensile strength and elongation" of JIS L 1015: 2010 "Chemical fiber staple test method". It is a value measured by setting a gripping interval of 20 mm and a tensile speed of 20 mm / min according to the above method.

The ratio of the two-component composite staple fibers contained in the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention is 20 to 70% by mass, preferably 30 to 65% by mass, and preferably 30 to 45% by mass. More preferred. When the ratio of the two-component composite staple fibers is less than 20% by mass, the occurrence of crimping due to the two-component composite staple fibers is reduced, and the obtained woven or knitted fabric cannot be imparted with stretchability or bulkiness, while 70. If it exceeds% by mass, the number of fibers constituting the sheath portion is insufficient, the core portion is exposed on the thread surface, the anti-pilling property of the obtained woven or knitted fabric is inferior, and the texture becomes hard.

The core of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention may be formed of only two-component composite staple fibers, or may be formed of two-component composite staple fibers and other short fibers. In the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, the ratio of the two-component composite staple fibers to the total amount of 100 parts by mass of the short fibers constituting the core portion is, for example, 75 parts by mass or more, preferably 75 to 100 parts by mass, more preferably. Is 80 to 100 parts by mass. By containing the two-component composite staple fibers in the core at such a ratio, the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention is used while providing sufficient latent crimping performance to the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention. It becomes possible to impart even more excellent stretchability and bulkiness to the woven and knitted fabric obtained.

In the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, when the core contains short fibers other than the two-component composite short fibers, the type of the short fibers is not particularly limited, but for example, polyester, nylon, vinylon, polyurethane, etc. Synthetic fibers such as polypropylene; Plant fibers such as cotton, linen and bamboo; Recycled fibers such as biscorayon, solvent-spun cellulose fiber and lyocell; Animal hair such as sheep, cashmere, camel, angora, moheya, alpaca, mink and azalea Fiber; Modal fiber and the like can be mentioned.

In the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, when synthetic fibers, regenerated fibers, or plant fibers are contained as short fibers in addition to the two-component composite staple fibers in the core, the single fiber fineness of these short fibers is the short. It may be set appropriately according to the type of fiber. For example, when the core contains a synthetic fiber or a regenerated fiber in addition to the two-component composite short fiber, the single fiber fineness of the synthetic fiber or the regenerated fiber is preferably 0.8 to 3.0 dtex, 1.7. -2.2 dtex is more preferable. Further, for example, when the core portion contains plant fibers other than the two-component composite staple fibers, the fineness of the plant fibers is preferably 2.6 to 6.0 μg / inch, and 3.0 to 5. 0 μg / inch is preferable. Here, the single fiber fineness of the synthetic fiber or the regenerated fiber is the method described in "a) Method A" of "8.5.1 Positive amount fineness" of JIS L 1015: 2010 "Chemical fiber staple test method". It is a value measured in accordance with it. The fineness of the plant fiber is a value measured by a standard method defined by JIS or the like according to the type of the plant fiber. Specifically, in the case of cotton, JIS L 1019. : It is a value measured according to the method described in "7.4.1 Micronea method" of "7.4 Fineness" of 2006 "Cotton fiber test method".

Further, in the case where the core portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention contains short fibers other than the two-component composite staple fibers, the fiber length of the short fibers may be appropriately set according to the type of the short fibers. It is good, but 20 to 50 mm is preferable, and 25 to 50 mm is more preferable. When the staple fiber is animal hair fiber, it may be cut and used so as to have the fiber length. Here, the fiber length of the short fiber is a value measured by a standard method defined by JIS or the like according to the type of short fiber used, and specifically, a synthetic fiber or a regenerated fiber. In the case of JIS L 1015: 2010, the method described in "a) Staple diagram method (A method)" of "8.4.1 Average fiber length" of "Chemical fiber staple test method"; In the case of cotton, JIS L 1019: 2006 "Cotton fiber test method" "7.2 Fiber length" "7.2.1 Sorter method" "A method (double sorter method)"; In the case of wool, JIS L 1081 : It is a value measured according to the method described in "7.2.1 Method A (method by electronic machine)" of "7.2 Average fiber length" of 2014 "Wool fiber test method".

In the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, as a suitable example when the core portion contains short fibers other than the two-component composite short fibers, the short fibers other than the two-component composite short fibers form a sheath portion in the core portion. It is the same as the staple fiber.

[Sheath]
The sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention may be formed of short fibers, but as the short fibers forming the sheath portion, cellulosic short fibers and / or animal hair fibers are preferable.

Cellulose-based short fibers used in the sheath of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention include, for example, plant fibers such as cotton, hemp, and bamboo; recycled fibers such as biscorayon, solvent-spun cellulose fibers, and lyocell; modal. Examples include fibers. These cellulosic staple fibers may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among these, natural fibers and regenerated fibers are preferable, and cotton and lyocell are more preferable.

When cellulose-based staple fibers are used in the sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, the sheath portion may be formed only of cellulose-based staple fibers, or a combination of cellulose-based staple fibers and other staple fibers. May be formed. When the sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention is formed of cellulose-based staple fibers and other staple fibers, the type of the other staple fibers is not particularly limited, and is, for example, polyester, nylon, vinylon, polyurethane. , Synthetic fibers such as polypropylene; animal hair fibers and the like.

Further, in the present invention, the animal hair fiber is an animal-derived short fiber containing a protein as a constituent. Examples of the animal hair fiber used for the sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention include animal fibers obtained from sheep, cashmere, camel, angora, mohair, alpaca, mink, azalea and the like. These animal hair fibers may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among these, wool is preferable.

It is preferable that the animal hair fiber used for the sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention is shrink-proofed. Animal hair fiber has a high-class feel and is excellent in terms of sensitivities such as excellent tailoring, but it has the drawback of shrinking significantly during home washing and becoming felt, and shrink-proof processing is applied to improve these. Is preferable. The shrink-proofing of animal hair fiber can be carried out by a known method. For example, (1) the scale of animal hair fiber is chlorinated by sodium hypochlorite, sodium dichloroisosianurate, or monopersulfate, permanganic acid. Method of desorbing with an oxidizing agent such as potassium; (2) Method of coating the scale of animal hair fiber with polyamide epichlorohydrin resin after the treatment of (1) above; (3) Scale of animal hair fiber with synthetic polymer Coating method; (4) A method of reducing the anisotropy of the friction coefficient of animal hair fibers by modifying the fiber surface by low-temperature plasma treatment, corona discharge treatment, or the like can be mentioned. Among these shrink-proof processing, it is preferable to apply the method (1) in consideration of the balance between operability, cost, and shrink-proof effect.

When animal hair fibers are used in the sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, the sheath portion may be formed only of animal hair fibers, or may be formed by combining animal hair fibers and other short fibers. You may. When the sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention is formed of animal hair fibers and other staple fibers, the type of the other staple fibers is not particularly limited, but for example, synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon; Examples include cellulose-based staple fibers.

When a cellulosic staple fiber is used in the sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, the single fiber fineness of the cellulosic staple fiber may be appropriately set according to the type. For example, when a regenerated fiber is used as a cellulosic staple fiber, the single fiber fineness of the regenerated fiber is preferably 0.8 to 3.0 dtex, more preferably 1.7 to 2.2 dtex. When a plant fiber is used as the cellulosic staple fiber, the fineness of the plant fiber is preferably 2.6 to 6.0 μg / inch, preferably 3.0 to 5.0 μg / inch. Here, the single fiber fineness of the regenerated fiber conforms to the method described in "a) Method A" of "8.5.1 Positive amount fineness" of JIS L 1015: 2010 "Chemical fiber staple test method". It is a value to be measured. The fineness of the plant fiber is a value measured by a standard method defined by JIS or the like according to the type of the plant fiber. Specifically, in the case of cotton, JIS L 1019. : It is a value measured according to the method described in "7.4.1 Micronea method" of "7.4 Fineness" of 2006 "Cotton fiber test method".

When cellulose-based staple fibers and / or animal hair fibers are used in the sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, the fiber length of the cellulose-based staple fibers and / or animal hair fibers depends on the type thereof. However, for example, 20 to 50 mm is preferable, and 25 to 50 mm is more preferable. In the case of animal hair fiber, it may be cut to the fiber length and used. Here, the cellulose-based short fibers and / or animal hair fibers are values measured by a standard method defined by JIS or the like according to the type thereof, and specifically, cotton (cellulose-based short fibers). In the case of fiber), it is described in "A method (double sorter method)" of "7.2. Method: In the case of regenerated fiber (cellulose-based short fiber), "a) Staple diagram method (Method A) of" 8.4.1 Average fiber length "of JIS L 1015: 2010" Chemical fiber staple test method ". In the case of wool (animal fiber), JIS L 1081: 2014 "Wool fiber test method" "7.2 Average fiber length" "7.2.1 A method (electronic machine) It is a value measured according to the method described in).

When cellulose-based staple fibers and / or animal hair fibers are used in the sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, the cellulose-based short fibers and / or animal hair fibers with respect to 100 parts by mass of the total amount of the short fibers constituting the sheath portion. The ratio is preferably 80 to 100 parts by mass, and more preferably 90 to 100 parts by mass. By containing cellulosic staple fibers and / or animal hair fibers in the sheath portion in such a ratio, even better anti-pilling is applied to the woven or knitted fabric obtained by using the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention. It is possible to impart excellent water absorption, bulkiness, and soft texture while imparting property and stretchability.

When cellulose-based staple fibers and / or animal hair fibers are used in the sheath portion of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, the ratio of the cellulose-based staple fibers and / or animal hair fibers contained in the two-layer structure spun yarn is determined. It is preferably 30 to 70% by mass, more preferably 40 to 65% by mass. Here, the "ratio of cellulose-based staple fibers and / or animal hair fibers contained in the two-layer structure spun yarn" is two when the core portion contains cellulose-based staple fibers and / or animal hair fibers. It is the ratio of the total mass of the cellulose-based staple fibers and / or the animal hair fibers contained in the core portion and the sheath portion to the total mass of the layered spun yarn. By containing cellulosic staple fibers and / or animal hair fibers in such a ratio, even better anti-pilling property and stretch are obtained for woven and knitted fabrics obtained by using the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention. In addition to imparting properties, it is possible to impart excellent water absorption, bulkiness, and a soft texture.

[Two-layer structure spun yarn core sheath structure]
The two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention has a two-layer structure in which the core portion is covered with the sheath portion in a cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

In the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, the ratio of the total mass of the short fibers forming the core portion to the total mass of the short fibers forming the sheath portion is preferably 30 to 70:70 to 30, preferably 35 to 65 :. 65 to 35 is more preferable, and 40:66 to 50:50 is even more preferable.

[Single yarn tensile strength of two-layer structure spun yarn, twist coefficient K, and hot water dimensional change rate]
The two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention satisfies all of the following characteristic values (1) to (3).
(1) Single yarn tensile strength is 1.0 cN / dtex or more (2) Twist coefficient K is 120 to 180
(3) Hot water dimensional change rate is 4.0% or more

The single yarn tensile strength of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention may be 1.0 cN / dtex or more, but is preferably 1.2 to 3.0 cN / dtex. When the single yarn tensile strength is less than 1.0 cN / dtex, yarn breakage due to high-speed operation during spinning and wear during weaving and knitting processes becomes severe, and the quality of the obtained woven and knitted fabric deteriorates. Further, if the single yarn tensile strength of the two-layer structure spun yarn is in the range of 1.0 to 3.0 cN / dtex, the obtained woven or knitted fabric is likely to have fluff falling off due to friction, and has better anti-pilling property. It will be easier to prepare. Here, the single yarn tensile strength of the two-layer structure spun yarn is "9.5.1 JIS method" of "9.5 single yarn tensile strength and elongation rate" of JIS L 1095: 2010 "general spun yarn test method". It is a value measured under the conditions of a gripping interval of 50 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm in accordance with the method described in "a) Standard time".

In order to keep the tensile strength of the single yarn within the above range, for example, the amount of the two-component composite staples forming the core of the two-layer structure spun yarn, other than the two-component composite staples arranged in the core as needed. The type and amount of the staple fibers, the type and amount of the staple fibers arranged in the sheath portion, the draw ratio of the blister yarn in the manufacturing process, and the like may be adjusted.

The twist coefficient K of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention may be 120 to 180, but is more preferably 130 to 150 from the viewpoint of further improving stretchability, anti-pilling property, and yarn strength. preferable. When the twist coefficient K is less than 120, the development of crimping of the two-component composite staple fibers in the core is not hindered, so that the obtained woven or knitted fabric has good stretchability, bulkiness, and soft texture, but the yarn. Since the strength is lowered and the convergence of the staple fibers is also lowered, the yarn is loosened and the fluff is increased, and the anti-pilling property is deteriorated. On the other hand, when the twist coefficient K exceeds 180, the stretchability and bulkiness of the obtained woven or knitted fabric are lowered by preventing the development of crimping of the two-component composite staple fibers in the core portion. Here, the twist coefficient K of the two-layer structure spun yarn is a value calculated according to the following formula (i). The number of twists T is based on the method described in "a) Method A" of "9.15.1 JIS method" of "Number from 9.15" of JIS L 1095: 2010 "General spun yarn test method". It is a value measured by. f001

In order to set the twist coefficient K in the above-mentioned range, for example, the draw ratio of the blister yarn, the conditions of the twisting operation, and the like may be adjusted in the manufacturing process.

Further, the hot water dimensional change rate of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention may be 4.0% or more, but preferably 4.5 to 8.0%, and 4.6 to 6.0%. Is more preferable. When the hot water dimensional change rate is less than 4%, the obtained woven or knitted fabric is inferior in stretchability. Here, the hot water dimensional change rate of the two-layer structure spun yarn conforms to the method described in "Method A" of "9.24 Hot water dimensional change rate" of JIS L 1095: 2010 "General spun yarn test method". It is a value measured by.

In order to keep the hot water dimensional change rate within the above-mentioned range, for example, the composition and amount of the two-component composite staple fibers forming the core of the two-layer structure spun yarn, the draw ratio of the blister yarn in the manufacturing process, etc. can be adjusted. good.

[Count of two-layer structure spun yarn]
The count of the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention is preferably 10 to 80, more preferably 20 to 60, and even more preferably 30 to 60 in English cotton count. Here, the English cotton count of the two-layer structure spun yarn is measured according to the method described in "9.4.2 Apparent tex and count" of JIS L 1095: 2010 "General spun yarn test method". Value.

[Form of two-layer structure spun yarn]
The two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention can be used as a single yarn, but a twin yarn obtained by twisting two two-layer structure spun yarns of the present invention, or a two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention and another spun yarn. Alternatively, it may be used as a twin yarn in which filaments of synthetic fibers are twisted together.

When the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention is used as a twin yarn, the number of twists of the twin yarn is set to the two-layer structure of the present invention in consideration of the development of bulkiness and stretchability by the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention. The number of twists of the spun yarn is preferably 30 to 100%, preferably 40 to 70%.

[Manufacturing method of two-layer structure spun yarn]
The method for producing a two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as a two-layer structure spun yarn having the above-described configuration can be obtained. A suitable example of the above will be described.

First, each of the short fibers forming the core and the sheath is put into a cotton carder and a card machine to obtain a core forming card sliver and a sheath forming card sliver. Then, the core portion forming card sliver is subjected to the kneading step to obtain the sliver S1, and the sheath portion forming card sliver is similarly subjected to the kneading step to obtain the sliver S2.

Next, a sliver S1 for the core portion and a sliver S2 for the sheath portion are supplied by using a roving machine having the structures shown in FIGS. 2 (schematic cross section) and 3 (schematic sectional view), and the draft direction in FIG. The traveling angle θ of the sliver S1 with respect to the flyer head is set to 60 °, and a twisted blister yarn is obtained.

Then, the obtained blister yarn is passed through a trumpet (guide) of a spinning frame, passed through a back roller, an apron, and a front roller in this order, and stretched 20 to 50 times between these total rollers, and then the spindle is rotated. By performing the twisting and winding operations using the above, a two-layer structure spun yarn satisfying the desired single yarn tensile strength, twist coefficient K, and hot water dimensional change rate can be obtained. The obtained spun yarn is large packaged in the finishing process and defects are removed.

2. 2. Woven Knitting The woven or knitted fabric (woven fabric or knitted fabric) of the present invention is characterized by containing the two-layer structure spun yarn (two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention) as a constituent yarn. The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention can be provided with excellent anti-pilling property and stretchability by weaving and knitting using the two-layer structure spun yarn. Hereinafter, the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention will be described in detail.

[fabric]
In the woven fabric of the present invention, the two-layer structure spun yarn may be used for at least one of the warp and weft. The amount of the two-layer structure spun yarn used in the woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 35 to 100% by mass, still more preferably 50 to 100% by mass. When the amount of the two-layer structure spun yarn used in the woven fabric satisfies the above range, excellent anti-pilling property and stretchability can be suitably embodied, and a feeling of stretch is felt at the time of wearing, and a comfortable wearing feeling is obtained. The stretch back property is also good by repeated wearing, and it is possible to effectively suppress the occurrence of defects such as knee slippage of trousers.

The weaving density of the fabric of the present invention may be appropriately set according to the intended use of the fabric, and for example, the warp density is 50 to 200 / 2.54 cm and the weft density is 50 to 100 / 2.54 cm. Preferably, the warp density is 80 to 150 lines / 2.54 cm and the weft density is 50 to 80 lines / 2.54 cm. Here, the weaving density of the woven fabric is the method described in "a) A method (JIS method) of" 8.6.1 Textile density "of JIS L 1096: 2010" Fabric test method of woven fabric and knitted fabric ". It is a value measured in accordance with it.

As an index of having excellent stretchability in the woven fabric of the present invention, the elongation rate in the weft direction (after 1 minute of loading) is 10 to 20%. Here, the elongation rate in the weft direction (after 1 minute of load) is the "b) B method (of the woven fabric) of "8.16.1 Elongation rate" of JIS L 1096: 2010 "Dough test method for woven fabrics and knitted fabrics". It is a value obtained by measuring the elongation rate after applying a load of 14.7 N and holding for 1 minute by marking at intervals of 200 mm according to the method described in "Constant load method)".

Further, as an index that the woven fabric of the present invention has excellent stretchability, the elongation rate in the weft direction (1 hour after loading) is 12 to 25%. Here, the elongation rate in the weft direction (after 1 hour of load) is the "b) B method (of the woven fabric) of "8.16.1 Elongation rate" of JIS L 1096: 2010 "Dough test method for woven fabrics and knitted fabrics". It is a value obtained by measuring the elongation rate after applying a load of 14.7 N and holding it for 1 hour by marking at intervals of 200 mm according to the method described in "Constant load method)".

Further, in order to make the elongation rate in the weft direction (after 1 minute of load loading) and (after 1 hour of load loading) within the above ranges, the two-layer structure spun yarn is used as the constituent yarn of the woven fabric of the present invention, and for example. , The cover factor (CF) of the woven fabric may be set to 20 to 33, preferably 30 to 33. Here, the woven fabric cover factor (CF) is a value calculated according to the following formula (ii).

The woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, crest weave (lappet, dobby, jacquard, etc.), double weave, and the like.

The woven fabric of the present invention has excellent anti-pilling property and stretchability, is also excellent in bulkiness, and has a soft texture, and is a material suitable for both outerwear and innerwear as a cloth for clothing. Become.

[knitting]
In the knitting of the present invention, the two-layer structure spun yarn may be used as at least one of the constituent yarns. The amount of the two-layer structure spun yarn used in the knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 50 to 100% by mass, still more preferably 80 to 100% by mass.

The knitting density in the knitted fabric of the present invention may be appropriately set according to the intended use of the knitted fabric, and for example, the course density is 30 to 70 / 2.54 cm and the wale density is 20 to 50 / 2.54 cm. Preferably, the course density is 32 to 70 lines / 2.54 cm and the wale density is 24 to 45 lines / 2.54 cm. Here, the knitting density of the knitted fabric is a value measured according to the method described in "8.6.2 Knitting density" of JIS L 1096: 2010 "Fabric test method of woven fabric and knitted fabric".

The basis weight of the knitted fabric of the present invention may be appropriately set according to the intended use of the knitted fabric, and examples thereof include 100 to 200 g / m ² , preferably 110 to 190 g / m ² .

Further, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, an index of having excellent stretchability is that the elongation rate in the horizontal direction is 28 to 70%. Here, the elongation rate in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric is "b) B method (constant load method of the woven fabric) of" 8.16.1 elongation rate "in JIS L 1096: 2010" Fabric test method for woven fabrics and knitted fabrics ". It is a value obtained by measuring the elongation rate after applying a load of 14.7 N and holding for 1 minute by marking at intervals of 200 mm according to the method described in 1.

When the two-layer structure spun yarn and other yarns are mixed as the constituent yarns of the knitted fabric of the present invention, the two-layer structure spun yarns are arranged so as to appear on the surface of the fabric in order to have excellent anti-pilling properties. It is preferable that the tissue is made. With such a structure, it is possible to have an anti-pilling property of grade 3 or higher without any special processing. Here, the grade of anti-pilling property is JIS L 1076: 2012 "Pilling test method for woven fabrics and knits", "8.1 JIS method", "8.1. 1 A method (method using ICI type tester)". It is a value obtained in accordance with the method described in ".

Specific examples of the knitting structure of the knitted fabric of the present invention include weft knitting such as tenjiku, smooth, milling cutter, waffle, fleece structure, piqué, picket, mesh, blister, and reversible structure. Further, the knitting structure of the knitted fabric of the present invention may be a structure using a WHOLEGARMENT computer flat knitting machine, a warp knitting such as a tricot half, or the like.

The knitted fabric of the present invention has excellent anti-pilling property and stretchability, is also excellent in bulkiness, and has a soft texture. Become.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the examples.

1. 1. Measurement / test method The measurement / test method for each characteristic value in the examples is as follows.

[Fiber length and single fiber fineness of two-component composite staples, polyester fibers, vinylon fibers, and lyocell fibers]
JIS L 1015: 2010 "Chemical fiber staple test method""8.4.1 Average fiber length""a) Staple diagram method (A method)" in accordance with the method described in the two-component composite short fiber The fiber length was measured. Further, the single fiber fineness of the two-component composite short fiber is based on the method described in "a) Method A" of "8.5.1 Positive fineness" of JIS L 1015: 2010 "Chemical fiber staple test method". Was measured.

[Cotton fiber length and single fiber fineness]
For the cotton fiber length, refer to the method described in "A method (double sorter method)" of "7.2. 1 Sorter method" of "7.2 Fiber length" of JIS L 1019: 2006 "Cotton fiber test method". Measured according to. The single fiber fineness of cotton was measured according to the method described in "7.4.1 Micronear Method" of "7.4 Fineness" of JIS L 1019: 2006 "Cotton Fiber Test Method".

[Fiber length of wool fiber]
The cut length (fiber length) of the wool fiber is described in "7.2. A average fiber length" of "7.2 Average fiber length" of JIS L 1081: 2014 "Wool fiber test method" (method by electronic machine). Measured according to the method of.

[Tension strength of two-component composite staple fibers, polyester fibers, and vinylon fibers]
JIS L 1015: 2010 Gripping interval 20 mm, tensile speed 20 mm in accordance with the method described in "8.7.1 Standard time test" of "8.7 Tensile strength and elongation" of "Chemical fiber staple test method". At / min, the tensile strength of the two-component composite staples was measured.

[Single yarn tensile strength of spun yarn]
JIS L 1095: 2010 In accordance with the method described in "a) Standard time" of "9.5.1 JIS method" of "9.5 Single yarn tensile strength and elongation" of "General spun yarn test method". The single yarn tensile strength of the spun yarn was measured at a grip interval of 50 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm.

[Twisting coefficient K]
The twist coefficient K was calculated according to the following equation (i). K = T / √Ne ... Equation (i)
T = number of twists / m
Ne = English cotton count Here, the number of twists T is JIS L 1095: 2010 "Number from 9.15" in "General spun yarn test method""9.15.1 JIS method""a) Method A. It was measured according to the method described in.

[English cotton count]
The English cotton count of the spun yarn was measured according to the method described in "9.4.2 Apparent tex and count" of JIS L 1095: 2010 "General spun yarn test method".

[Heat water dimensional change rate]
The hot water dimensional change rate of the spun yarn was measured according to the method described in "Method A" of "9.24 Hot water dimensional change rate" of JIS L 1095: 2010 "General spun yarn test method".

[Elongation rate of woven fabrics and knits]
JIS L 1096: 2010 "B) Method B (constant load method for woven fabrics)" in "8.16.1 Elongation rate" of "Fabric test method for woven fabrics and knitted fabrics" at intervals of 200 mm. By marking and applying a load of 14.7 N, the elongation rate in the weft direction of the woven fabric and the elongation rate in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric were measured. The measured value of the elongation rate after the load was applied and held for 1 minute was defined as "elongation rate 1", and the measured value of the elongation rate after the load was applied and held for 1 hour was defined as "elongation rate 2".

[Anti-pilling property]
JIS L 1076: 2012 In accordance with the method described in "8.1. A method (method using ICI type tester)" of "8.1 JIS method" of "Pilling test method of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics". The anti-pilling property (class) of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics was evaluated. The operation time was 10 hours for woven fabrics and 5 hours for knitting.

2. 2. Staples used as raw materials The following staples were used in the production of the spun yarns of Examples and Comparative Examples.

[Two-component composite staples]
F1: The mass ratio of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) is 50/50, and the cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the fiber is oval-shaped (two grooves) as shown in FIG. A short fiber F2: F1 that is attached side-by-side to a snowball shape), has a single fiber fineness of 2.0 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, a tensile strength of 3.4 cN / dtex, and an aspect ratio (A: B) of 1.5: 1. Short fibers similar to those with a fiber length of 51 mm

〔cotton〕
M1: Fineness 4.9 μm / inch, fiber length 33 mm (Australian cotton)

[Lyocell fiber]
R1: Unitika Trading Co., Ltd. "Lyocell KF" (single fiber fineness 1.3 dtex, fiber length 38 mm)

[Animal hair fiber]
U1: Wool fiber treated with sodium hypochlorite and sodium dichloroisosianurate to prevent shrinkage (merino wool, cut into 38 mm and used)

[Polyester fiber]
P1: Short fibers made of polyethylene terephthalate with a fiber length of 38 mm, a single fiber fineness of 1.45 dtex, and a tensile strength of 5.9 cN / dtex.

[Vinylon fiber]
V1: Water-soluble vinylon "K-II type WN4" manufactured by Kuraray, with a fiber length of 38 mm, a single fiber fineness of 1.7 dtex, and a tensile strength of 7.0 cN / dtex.

3. 3. Manufacture of spun yarn and evaluation of physical properties [Example 1]
Core sliver; 81.6% by mass of two-component composite staple fiber F1 and 18.4% by mass of cotton M1 are mixed and put into a cotton carder and a card machine to obtain a card sliver, and further, a card sliver. Was subjected to the kneading process to obtain sliver S1.
Sliver for sheath portion; 100% by mass of cotton M1 was used, and a sliver S2 was obtained through a mixed cotton step, a card step, and a kneading step.
Using the rough spinning machine having the structures shown in FIGS. 2 (schematic cross section) and 3 (schematic cross section), the sliver S1 for the core portion and the sliver S2 for the sheath portion are supplied, and the mass ratio of each sliver after stretching is supplied. S1: S2 = 49: 51, and the traveling angle θ of the sliver S1 for the core portion with respect to the draft direction to the flyer head in FIG. 2 is 60 °, and the coarse yarn mass is 275 gr / 30 yd (1 gr = 0.65 g). 1 yd = 0.9144 m), and a blister yarn having a twist number of 0.961 times / 2.54 cm was obtained.
This blister thread is passed through the trumpet (guide) of the spinning frame, passed through the back roller, apron, and front roller in that order, and after stretching 35.5 times, twisting and winding operations using the rotation of the spindle are performed. went. In the twisting and winding operation, a thread is passed through a traveler fitted in a ring-shaped guide and wound on a bobbin, and the traveler rotates slower than the bobbin due to friction or the like to impart twist. Thus, a two-layer structure spun yarn having a twist coefficient of K = 150 and a count of 30 (English cotton count) was obtained.

[Example 2]
Using the same blister yarn as in Example 1, spinning was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio in the spinning frame was changed to 47.3 times, and the yarn count was 40 (English cotton count) and the twist coefficient. A two-layer structure spun yarn with K = 150 was obtained.

[Example 3]
In the sliver for the core portion, the sliver S1 for the core portion was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the lyocell fiber R1 was used instead of the cotton M1.
As a sliver for the sheath portion, 100% by mass of lyocell fiber R1 was used, and a sliver S2 was obtained through a mixed cotton step, a card step, and a kneading step.
Spinning was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 2 except that these slivers S1 and S2 were used to obtain a two-layer structure spun yarn having a 40th count (English cotton count) and a twist coefficient K = 150.

[Example 4]
In the sliver for the core portion, the sliver S1 for the core portion was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the animal hair fiber U1 was used instead of the cotton M1.
As a sliver for the sheath portion, 100% by mass of animal hair fiber U1 was used, and a sliver S2 was obtained through a mixed cotton step, a card step, and a kneading step.
Spinning was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that these slivers S1 and S2 were used to obtain a two-layer structure spun yarn having a count of 30 (English cotton count) and a twist coefficient of K = 150.

[Example 5]
Using the same blister yarn as in Example 4, spinning was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio in the spinning frame was changed to 47.3 times, and the yarn count was 40 (English cotton count) and the twist coefficient. A two-layer structure spun yarn with K = 150 was obtained.

[Example 6]
A blister yarn similar to that in Example 1 is passed through a trumpet (guide) of a spinning frame, stretched 47.3 times in the order of a back roller, an apron, and a front roller, and then twisted and twisted using the rotation of the spindle. The take-up operation was performed. In the twisting and winding operations, twisting was added by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of revolutions of the spindle. Thus, a two-layer structure spun yarn having a twist coefficient of K = 130 and a count of 40 (English cotton count) was obtained.

[Example 7]
A blister yarn similar to that in Example 1 is passed through a trumpet (guide) of a spinning frame, stretched 47.3 times in the order of a back roller, an apron, and a front roller, and then twisted and twisted using the rotation of the spindle. The take-up operation was performed. In the twisting and winding operations, twisting was added by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of revolutions of the spindle. Thus, a two-layer structure spun yarn having a twist coefficient of K = 140 and a count of 40 (English cotton count) was obtained.

[Example 8]
Sliver for core; Sliver S1 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 80% by mass of the two-component composite staple fiber F1 and 20% by mass of the vinylon fiber V1 were mixed.
Sliver for sheath portion; 100% by mass of lyocell fiber R1 was used, and a sliver S2 was obtained through a mixed cotton step, a card step, and a kneading step.
Using a roving machine having the structures shown in FIGS. 2 (schematic cross section) and 3 (schematic cross section), a sliver S1 for a core portion and a sliver S2 for a sheath portion are supplied, and the mass ratio of each sliver after stretching is supplied. A crude yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that S1: S2 = 40: 60.
This blister thread is passed through the trumpet (guide) of the spinning frame, stretched 59.1 times in the order of the back roller, apron, and front roller, and then twisted and wound using the rotation of the spindle. rice field. In the twisting and winding operations, twisting was added by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of revolutions of the spindle. Thus, a two-layer structure spun yarn having a twist coefficient of K = 150 and a count of 50 (English cotton count) was obtained.

[Example 9]
Sliver for core; Sliver S1 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 100% by mass of the two-component composite staple fiber F1 was used.
Sliver for sheath portion; 100% by mass of lyocell fiber R1 was used, and a sliver S2 was obtained through a mixed cotton step, a card step, and a kneading step.
Using a roving machine having the structures shown in FIGS. 2 (schematic cross section) and 3 (schematic cross section), a sliver S1 for a core portion and a sliver S2 for a sheath portion are supplied, and the mass ratio of each sliver after stretching is supplied. A crude yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that S1: S2 = 40: 60.
This blister thread is passed through the trumpet (guide) of the spinning frame, stretched 71.0 times through the back roller, apron, and front roller in that order, and then twisting and winding operations are performed using the rotation of the spindle. rice field. In the twisting and winding operations, twisting was added by adjusting the overall speed supplied to the spindle and the spindle speed. Thus, a two-layer structure spun yarn having a twist coefficient of K = 150 and a count of 60 (English cotton count) was obtained.

[Comparative Example 1]
Sliver for core; 100% by mass of polyester fiber P1 was used and put into a cotton carder and a card machine to obtain a card sliver, and further, the card sliver was subjected to a kneading process to obtain a sliver S1.
Spinning was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the sliver for the core was changed to the above, to obtain a two-layer structure spun yarn having a count of 30 (English cotton count) and a twist coefficient of K = 150.

[Comparative Example 2]
Using the same blister yarn as in Comparative Example 1, spinning was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio in the spinning frame was changed to 47.3 times, and the yarn count was 40 (English cotton count) and the twist coefficient. A two-layer structure spun yarn with K = 150 was obtained.

[Comparative Example 3]
Two-component composite staple fibers F1 and cotton M1 were blended at a mass ratio of 40/60 to obtain blister yarn.
This blister thread is passed through the trumpet (guide) of the spinning frame, passed through the back roller, apron, and front roller in that order, and after stretching 35.5 times, twisting and winding operations using the rotation of the spindle are performed. went. In the twisting and winding operations, twisting was added by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of revolutions of the spindle. Thus, a blended spun yarn having a yarn count of 30 (English cotton count) and a twist coefficient of K = 150 was obtained.

[Comparative Example 4]
A blister yarn similar to that in Example 1 is passed through a trumpet (guide) of a spinning frame, passed through a back roller, an apron, and a front roller in this order, and then stretched 47.3 times, and then twisted using the rotation of the spindle. And the winding operation was performed. In the twisting and winding operations, twisting was added by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of revolutions of the spindle. Thus, a two-layer structure spun yarn having a twist coefficient of K = 100 and a count of 40 (English cotton count) was obtained.

[Comparative Example 5]
A blister yarn similar to that in Example 1 is passed through a trumpet (guide) of a spinning frame, passed through a back roller, an apron, and a front roller in this order, and then stretched 47.3 times, and then twisted using the rotation of the spindle. And the winding operation was performed. In the twisting and winding operations, twisting was added by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of revolutions of the spindle. Thus, a two-layer structure spun yarn having a twist coefficient of K = 190 and a count of 40 (English cotton count) was obtained.

Table 1 shows the characteristic values of the spun yarns obtained in Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5.

4. Manufacture and evaluation of woven fabric [Example 11]
Warp and weft: A spun yarn (30/2 count twin yarn) obtained by combining two double-layer structure spun yarns of Example 1 and twisting them 16 times / 2.54 cm in the S direction.
Warp: A two-layer structure spun yarn of Comparative Example 2.
Using the above-mentioned spun yarn for the weft and the warp, a plain weave (Oxford) loom having a warp density of 92 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 50 / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 29.6 was obtained by an air jet loom. Further, after hair baking, degluing, and scouring were performed by a known method, mercerizing was performed without applying tension in the weft direction. Then, the dyeing process and the finishing process were performed under the following conditions to obtain an Oxford woven fabric having a warp density of 112 lines / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 52 lines / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 31.1.
(Dyeing process)
Ubiteq EBF (manufactured by Ciba-Geigy Japan Co., Ltd.) 5 g / l and Illuminal URL (manufactured by Showa Kako Co., Ltd.) 5 g / l are used as fluorescent whitening dyes to impregnate the woven fabric, and the adhesion rate as a chemical is 0. It was squeezed with a mangle so as to be 35%, and dried with a tenter under the condition of 170 ° C. × 1 minute.
(Finishing)
Using Sunsofter GA Conc NEW (manufactured by NICCA CHEMICAL CO., LTD.) 20 g / l as a softening agent, squeeze it with a mangle so that the adhesion rate as a chemical is 1.4%, and tenter under the condition of 150 ° C x 1 minute. Was dried in.

[Example 12]
Using the two-layer structure spun yarn of Example 2 for the weft and the two-layer structure spun yarn of Comparative Example 2 for the warp, the warp density is 112 / 2.54 cm, the weft density is 70 / 2.54 cm, and the cover is used by an air jet loom. A plain weave loom with a factor of 28.8 was obtained. Further, after hair baking, degluing, and scouring were performed by a known method, mercerizing was performed without applying tension in the weft direction. Then, the fabric was dyed and finished with a softener under the following conditions to obtain a plain woven fabric having a warp density of 130 lines / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 70 lines / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 31.6.
<Dyeing process>
20 g / L of Glauber's salt and 30 g / L of soda ash were added to the reactive dye "Remazol Brilliant Blue R 3% (owf)", and the woven fabric after degluing was dipped in this and dyed under the conditions of 60 ° C. × 60 minutes. ..
<Finishing>
Sandslash DTC (manufactured by Sandoz Co., Ltd.) 1 g / L was used, and after performing soaping treatment under the condition of 90 ° C. × 10 minutes, Sunsofter GA Conc NEW (manufactured by NICCA CHEMICAL CO., LTD.) 20 g / l was used. It was squeezed with a mangle so that the adhesion rate as a chemical was 1.4%, and dried with a tenter under the conditions of 150 ° C. × 1 minute.

[Example 13]
Warp: A spun yarn (40/2 count twin yarn) obtained by combining two double-layer structure spun yarns of Example 5 and twisting them 19 times / 2.54 cm in the S direction.
Warp and weft: A spun yarn (30/2 count twin yarn) obtained by combining two double-layer structure spun yarns of Example 4 and twisting them 16 times / 2.54 cm in the S direction.
Using the above-mentioned spun yarn for the weft and warp, an air jet loom was used to obtain a raw machine with a warp density of 100 threads / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 55 threads / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 27.4, which is a 3/4 right twill structure. rice field. Furthermore, hair burning, enzyme degluing, and scouring are performed by a known method, and dyeing and softener finishing are performed under the following conditions. 8/3/1 right twill structure woven fabric was obtained.
<Dyeing process>
20 g / L of Glauber's salt and 30 g / L of soda ash were added to the reactive dye "Remazol Brilliant Blue R 3% (owf)", and the woven fabric after degluing was dipped in this and dyed under the conditions of 60 ° C. × 60 minutes. ..
<Finishing>
After performing soaping treatment using Monogen 170TN (manufactured by Dai-ichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) at 90 ° C for 10 minutes, Sunsofter GA Conc NEW (softener manufactured by NICCA CHEMICAL CO., LTD.) 20 g / l. Was squeezed with a mangle so that the adhesion rate as a drug was 1.4%, and dried with a tenter under the conditions of 150 ° C. × 1 minute.

[Example 14]
Weaving, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 12, except that the two-layer structure spun yarn of Example 6 was used for the weft, and the warp density was 130 / 2.54 cm and the weft density was 70 / 2.54 cm. A plain fabric with a cover factor of 31.6 was obtained.

[Example 15]
Weaving, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 12, except that the two-layer structure spun yarn of Example 7 was used for the weft, and the warp density was 130 / 2.54 cm and the weft density was 70 / 2.54 cm. A plain fabric with a cover factor of 31.6 was obtained.

[Comparative Example 11]
Except for using two spun yarns (30/2 count twin yarns) obtained by combining two double-layer structure spun yarns of Comparative Example 1 as wefts and twisting them 16 times / 2.54 cm in the S direction. Weaved, dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 11 to obtain an Oxford fabric having a warp density of 112 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 52 yarns / 2.54 cm and a cover factor of 31.1.

[Comparative Example 12]
Weaving, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 12 except that the two-layer structure spun yarn of Comparative Example 2 was used for both the warp and weft, and the warp density was 130 / 2.54 cm and the weft density was 70 / 2.54 cm. , A plain woven fabric with a cover factor of 31.6 was obtained.

[Comparative Example 13]
Weaving, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 12 except that the blended spun yarn of Comparative Example 3 was used for the weft, and the warp density was 130 / 2.54 cm, the weft density was 70 / 2.54 cm, and the cover factor 31. A plain woven fabric of 0.6 was obtained.

[Comparative Example 14]
Weaving, dyeing, and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 12, except that the weft was a 36-count (English-style cotton-count) long-short composite spun yarn described in Example 1 of JP-A-2008-248402. , A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 130 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 70 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 32.2 was obtained.

[Comparative Example 15]
Weaving, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 12 except that the two-layer structure spun yarn of Comparative Example 4 was used for the weft, and the warp density was 130 / 2.54 cm, the weft density was 70 / 2.54 cm, and the cover. A factor 31.6 plain fabric was obtained.

[Comparative Example 16]
Weaving, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 12 except that the two-layer structure spun yarn of Comparative Example 5 was used for the weft, and the warp density was 130 / 2.54 cm, the weft density was 70 / 2.54 cm, and the cover. A factor 31.6 plain fabric was obtained.

Tables 2 and 3 show the results of the characteristic values, physical properties, etc. of the woven fabrics obtained in Examples 11 to 15 and Comparative Examples 11 to 16.

As is clear from Table 2, the woven fabrics obtained in Examples 11 to 15 use the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention, and both the elongation rates 1 and 2 in the weft direction are 10% or more. Therefore, the stretchability was good. In addition, the woven fabric has excellent anti-pilling properties, is soft to the touch with cotton or wool, and has few serious defects due to spinning.

On the other hand, as is clear from Table 3, the woven fabrics obtained in Comparative Example 11 and Comparative Example 12 were general polyester fibers having a round cross section at the core of the two-layer structure spun yarn used, so that they were in the weft direction. Both the elongation rates 1 and 2 were less than 10%, which was inferior in stretchability. Since the woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 13 used a blended spun yarn in which a two-component composite staple fiber and cotton were simply blended as a warp and weft, the two-component composite staple fiber was present on the surface of the woven fabric. The two-component composite staple fiber of No. 1 was the core, and the fallen cotton was easily entangled, so that the anti-pilling property was inferior. Since the woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 14 used long and short composite spun yarns for the wefts, the elongation rates 1 and 2 in the warp direction were both less than 10%, which was inferior in stretchability. In addition, there were many serious drawbacks due to spinning.
In the woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 15, since the spun yarn of Comparative Example 4 was used as the weft, the fluff of the yarn increased due to the insufficient conjugation force of the yarn itself, and the anti-pilling property was inferior.
In the woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 16, since the spun yarn of Comparative Example 5 was used as the weft, the crimping was inhibited by twisting, and both the elongation rates 1 and 2 in the weft direction were less than 10%, and the stretchability was high. There was a decrease, and the texture of the fabric became hard.

5. Manufacture and evaluation of knitted fabric [Example 21]
Two double-layer structure spun yarns of Example 2 were combined and twisted 19 times / 2.54 cm in the S direction to obtain spun yarns (40/2 count twin yarns).
Using the above twin yarns, a knitted fabric having a Tenjiku structure was obtained using a 30-inch, 22-gauge knitting machine. This knit is scoured and bleached under known conditions, dyed and finished under the following conditions, and a weight of 160 g / m ² , course 37 / 2.54 cm, wale 31 / 2.54 cm is made into a plain knit. Obtained.
<Dyeing process>
20 g / L of Glauber's salt and 30 g / L of soda ash were added to the reactive dye "Remazol Brilliant Blue R 3% (owf)", and the knitted fabric after degluing was immersed in this and dyed under the conditions of 60 ° C. × 60 minutes. ..
<Finishing>
After dyeing, Lipotor RK-5 (manufactured by NICCA CHEMICAL CO., LTD.) 1 g / L is used, and after performing soaping treatment under the condition of 90 ° C. × 10 minutes, Cheelcut CF-2 (manufactured by Senka Co., Ltd.) 20 g. / L, NK-1 30 g / L was squeezed with a mangle so that the adhesion rate as a drug was 3%, and dried with a tenter under the conditions of 150 ° C. × 2 minutes.

[Example 22]
Two double-layer structure spun yarns of Example 3 were combined and twisted 19 times / 2.54 cm in the S direction to obtain spun yarns (40/2 count twin yarns).
Except for the use of the above twin yarns, knitting, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 21, and the basis weight was 160 g / m ² , the course was 37 / 2.54 cm, and the wale was 31 / 2.54 cm. I got a knit.

[Example 23]
Using the same twin yarn as in Example 21, a knitted fabric of Kanoko structure was obtained using a 26-inch, 24-gauge knitting machine. This knit is scoured and bleached under known conditions, and dyed and finished under the following conditions to produce a Kanoko knit with a basis weight of 190 g / m ² , 44 courses / 2.54 cm, and 26 wales / 2.54 cm. Obtained.
<Dyeing process>
20 g / L of Glauber's salt and 30 g / L of soda ash were added to the reactive dye "Remazol Brilliant Blue R 3% (owf)", and the woven fabric after degluing was dipped in this and dyed under the conditions of 60 ° C. × 60 minutes. ..
<Finishing>
After dyeing, Lipotor RK-5 (manufactured by NICCA CHEMICAL CO., LTD.) 1 g / L is used, and after performing soaping treatment under the condition of 90 ° C. × 10 minutes, Cheelcut CF-2 (manufactured by Senka Co., Ltd.) 20 g. It was squeezed with a mangle and dried with a tenter under the conditions of 150 ° C. × 2 minutes so that the adhesion rate as a drug to / L and NK-1 30 g / L was 2% and 3%, respectively.

[Example 24]
Using the two-layer structure spun yarn of Example 8, knitting was performed using a circular knitting machine 19 "19G manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki to obtain a knitted material having a milling structure.
The obtained knitted fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 21 to obtain a milling knit with a basis weight of 124 g / m ² , 52 courses / 2.54 cm, and 40 wales / 2.54 cm.

[Example 25]
Using the two-layer structure spun yarn of Example 9, knitting, dyeing, and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 24 except that the circular knitting machine 17 ”24G manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki was used, and the grain size was 122 g / m ² . , 65 courses / 2.54 cm, 42 wales / 2.54 cm milling knits were obtained.

[Comparative Example 21]
Two double-layer structure spun yarns of Comparative Example 2 were combined and twisted 19 times / 2.54 cm in the S direction to obtain spun yarns (40/2 count twin yarns).
Knitting, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 21 except that the above ^twin yarns were used. Got

[Comparative Example 22]
Two double-layer structure spun yarns of Comparative Example 2 were combined and twisted 19 times / 2.54 cm in the S direction to obtain spun yarns (40/2 count twin yarns).
Knitting, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 23 except that the above ^twin yarns were used. I got a knit.

[Comparative Example 23]
Two blended spun yarns of Comparative Example 3 were combined and twisted 19 times / 2.54 cm in the S direction to obtain spun yarns (40/2 count twin yarns).
Knitting, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 21 except that the above twin yarns were used, and a tenjiku knitted fabric having a basis weight of 160 g / m ² , a course of 37 lines / 2.54 cm, and a wale of 31 lines / 2.54 cm was obtained. Obtained.

Tables 4 and 5 show the results of the characteristic values, physical properties, etc. of the knitted fabrics obtained in Examples 21 to 25 and Comparative Examples 21 to 23.

The knitted fabrics obtained in Examples 21 to 25 were knitted using the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention so that the two-layer structure spun yarn appeared on the surface of the fabric, and thus had excellent anti-pilling property.
On the other hand, the knits obtained in Comparative Examples 21 and 22 are loose because they are two-layer structure spun yarns having a general polyester fiber having a round cross section in the core and have a small rate of change in hydrothermal dimensions. It became a knit. As a result, the polyester fiber in the core is easily exposed to the surface of the spun yarn or knitted fabric due to friction or kneading, and since the polyester fiber has high fiber strength, it does not fall off and becomes a core, resulting in poor anti-pilling property. The result was.
Since the knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Example 23 used a blended spun yarn in which a two-component composite staple fiber and cotton were simply blended, the two-component composite staple fiber was present on the surface of the knitted fabric. Ingredients Composite staple fibers became the core, and the cotton that had fallen off was easily entangled, resulting in poor anti-pilling properties.

A Back roller B Middle roller C Apron D Front roller E Flyer head F Flyer G Spinning yarn H Coarse yarn S1 Core sliver S2 Sheath sliver

Claims (8)

1. A two-layer spun yarn having a core and a sheath in a cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn.
   Both the core and the sheath are made of short fibers, and the core contains a two-component composite staple fiber composed of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate), and the two components are contained in a two-layer structure spun yarn. A two-layer structure spun yarn containing 20 to 70% by mass of composite staple fibers and satisfying all of the following characteristic values (1) to (3).
   (1) Single yarn tensile strength is 1.0 cN / dtex or more (2) Twist coefficient K is 120 to 180
   (3) Hot water dimensional change rate is 4.0% or more
2. The two-layer structure spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the sheath portion contains cellulosic staple fibers and the two-layer structure spun yarn contains 30 to 70% by mass of the cellulosic staple fibers.
3. The two-layer structure spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the sheath portion contains animal hair fibers and the two-layer structure spun yarn contains 30 to 70% by mass of animal hair fibers.
4. The two-layer structure spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the total mass of the short fibers forming the core portion: the total mass of the short fibers forming the sheath portion is 30 to 70: 70 to 30.
5. The two-layer structure spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the two-component composite staple fiber is a composite staple fiber in which poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) are bonded in a side-by-side manner.
6. The cross-sectional shape in the direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the two-component composite staple fiber is an oval shape having a groove on the outer periphery, and the two-component composite staple fiber has the following characteristic values (a) to (e). The two-layer structure spun yarn according to claim 5, which is all satisfied.
   (A) Aspect ratio A: B (A is the long axis length of the cross section and B is the short axis length of the cross section) is 1.8: 1 to 1.2: 1.
   (B) Single fiber fiber is 0.8-3.0 dtex
   (C) Fiber length is 30 to 60 mm
   (D) Tensile strength is 2.0-4.0 cN / dtex
   (E) The number of grooves is 2 or more.
7. A woven fabric containing the two-layer structure spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 6.
8. A knit containing the two-layer structure spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

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