JP2013199721A - Spun yarn having two-layer structure and woven and knitted fabric using the spun yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a spun yarn which is suitably used for obtaining a woven and knitted fabric that can keep stretch properties without impairing texture specific to a natural fiber, can be used in the open air and hardly reduces strength and extension recovery ratio; and to provide a woven and knitted fabric that is formed by using the spun yarn and is suitable for various material for uniforms.SOLUTION: The spun yarn having a two-layer structure is formed by arranging a polyester staple fiber at a core part, and arranging a cotton fiber at a sheath part, the polyester staple fiber being obtained by joining two types of polyester polymers having different thermal shrinkage characteristics side-by-side. A mass ratio (core part/sheath part) of the core part to the sheath part is 0.4-1.5, and the thickness of the spun yarn having the two-layer structure is 5-50S (English cotton count). In addition, the woven and knitted fabric using the spun yarn having the two-layer structure is also disclosed.

Description

  The present invention relates to a two-layer structure spun yarn and a woven or knitted fabric using the spun yarn.

  Conventionally, a fiber capable of imparting stretchability to a woven or knitted fabric is known, and a polyurethane elastic yarn is known as a typical one. When a polyurethane elastic yarn is used, it is generally used as a covering yarn in which, for example, natural fibers are wound around the polyurethane elastic yarn (see, for example, Patent Document 1).

  However, since the polyurethane elastic yarn is a long fiber, the resilience peculiar to the long fiber is strongly reflected in the woven or knitted fabric, and the puffiness peculiar to the natural fiber tends to be erased.

  Furthermore, polyurethane elastic yarns also have the problem that when exposed to the outdoors, the fibers become brittle and easily cut, and in outer materials that are often exposed to the outdoors, degradation of stretchability due to fiber cutting is regarded as a problem. It was. For example, a working uniform material applied to work clothes on a construction site is preferred to have excellent stretchability so that the work clothes can easily follow the movement of the wearer. However, because of the above reasons, the stretchability of work clothes is reduced while the outdoor work is repeated.

  On the other hand, a technique is known in which a woven or knitted fabric using a composite spun yarn made of natural fibers as a warp is given stretchability by forcibly applying a tension in the warp direction in finishing. In the woven or knitted fabric obtained by this method, the swelling feeling derived from natural fibers is not erased, and the stretchability is hardly reduced even when exposed outdoors. However, in such a woven or knitted fabric, there is a tendency for the strength of the woven or knitted fabric to be reduced due to the tension applied, and because the composite spun yarn is inherently poor in stretchability, The recovery rate also tended to decrease. In this respect, if the elongation recovery rate is poor, knee and elbow are likely to occur when the garment is worn, and the aesthetics of the garment cannot be maintained.

Registered Utility Model No. 3017537

  In order to solve the above problems, there is an attempt to obtain a woven or knitted fabric using latent crimped yarn. Latent crimped yarn is a yarn composed of polyester fibers obtained by joining two types of polyester polymers with different viscosities in a side-by-side manner. Polyester terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, etc. are usually used for polyester polymers. The By using the latent crimped yarn, it becomes possible to provide a knitted or knitted fabric that is useful not only as stretchability but also as an outer material and that is difficult to decrease in strength, elongation recovery rate, and the like.

  When a latent crimped yarn is used, it is generally used as a covering yarn in which natural fibers are wound around itself as in the case of a polyurethane elastic yarn. However, the latent crimped yarn is generally a long fiber yarn, and as with the use of polyurethane elastic yarn, there is a tendency for the feeling of swelling peculiar to natural fibers to be erased. Moreover, latent crimped yarns tend to be less stretchable than polyurethane elastic yarns, so if you try to obtain a stretchy woven or knitted fabric, the amount used will increase accordingly, and the feeling of swelling will be reduced accordingly. It becomes.

  Therefore, the development of yarn suitable for obtaining woven or knitted fabrics that can maintain stretchability without damaging the unique texture of natural fibers, can be used outdoors, and is difficult to reduce strength and elongation recovery rate. However, the actual situation has not yet been put into practical use.

  The present invention solves the above-mentioned disadvantages of the prior art, can maintain the stretchability without damaging the texture unique to natural fibers, can be used outdoors, and is difficult to reduce strength and elongation recovery rate. It is an object of the present invention to provide a spun yarn suitable for obtaining a knitted fabric and a woven or knitted fabric suitable for various uniform materials using the spun yarn.

  As a result of diligent research, the present inventor has used polyester short fibers and cotton fibers obtained by joining two types of polyester polymers in a side-by-side manner, and is used as a double-layer spun yarn having a specific structure. As a result, the inventors have found that the above problems can be solved, and have reached the present invention.

That is, the first invention of the present invention is a two-layer structure in which polyester short fibers obtained by bonding two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties to a side-by-side type are arranged in the core and cotton fibers are arranged in the sheath. It is a structured spun yarn, and the mass ratio of the core part to the sheath part (core part / sheath part) is 0.4 to 1.5, and the thickness is 5 to 50S (English cotton count). The gist of the characteristic double-layered spun yarn is as follows.
And the 2nd invention makes it the summary of the woven / knitted fabric formed using the said two-layer structure spun yarn.

  According to the present invention, not only can the stretchability be maintained without impairing the texture unique to natural fibers, but also suitable for obtaining a woven or knitted fabric that can be used outdoors and that is difficult to decrease in strength and elongation recovery rate. Spinned yarn can be provided. And the knitted fabric suitable for various uniform materials can be provided using the spun yarn.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  In this invention, the polyester short fiber which joined two types of polyester polymers from which a heat shrink characteristic differs to the side-by-side type is used. When this polyester short fiber is subjected to a wet heat treatment, a difference in thermal shrinkage occurs between the two polymers, and a fine spiral crimp appears. And by this crimp expression, stretchability is imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. Usually, the finishing process of the woven or knitted fabric involves a wet heat treatment, and as a result, the polyester short fibers are subjected to a wet heat treatment through the finishing process, thereby imparting stretchability to the woven or knitted fabric.

  As the polyester polymer in the present invention, those mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate can be preferably used, taking into consideration the texture and color developability of the woven or knitted fabric, the polyester polymer containing a copolymer component. Coalescence may be used. As copolymerization components, adipic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, dimer acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, oxybenzoic acid, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, neopentyl Examples thereof include ethylene oxide adducts of glycol, pentaerythritol, or bisphenol A, and one or more may be used as necessary.

  In addition, the polymer may contain a matting agent, an antioxidant, an ultraviolet absorber, a pigment, a flame retardant, an antibacterial agent, a conductive agent, and the like as necessary. You can do it.

  Selecting two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties is, for example, selecting both polymers having different relative viscosities, or one containing a copolymer component and the other not containing a copolymer component. It is possible by selecting one. For example, when selecting those having different relative viscosities, the high-viscosity side polyester polymer usually corresponds to the high shrinkage side, and the low-viscosity side polyester polymer corresponds to the low shrinkage side. In this case, the relative viscosity of the high viscosity side polyester polymer is preferably 1.35 to 1.43, and the relative viscosity of the low viscosity side polyester polymer is preferably 1.20 to 1.40. In general, the greater the difference in viscosity between the two polymers, the greater the expression of crimp.However, if the amount is too large, the knee spinning phenomenon may increase when the fiber is composite-spun, and the yarn-making property may deteriorate. Is preferably 0.3 or less for practical use.

  The mass ratio of both polymers (high shrinkage side / low shrinkage side) is preferably in the range of 40/60 to 60/40.

  In the present invention, both polymers are joined to the side-by-side type to constitute one fiber, and the joint surface in the fiber cross section at that time may or may not be curved, The fibers tend to be more crimped.

  In the present invention, the polyester short fibers as described above are used. If these are long fibers, the woven or knitted fabric has a strong rebound feeling, and the desired texture cannot be obtained.

  In the present invention, cotton fibers are used in combination. As the fiber length and fineness of both short fibers, in the case of polyester short fibers, an effective fiber length of 32 to 51 mm and a fineness of 1.1 to 4.4 dtex are preferable. On the other hand, in the case of cotton fibers, an effective fiber length of 22.2 to 38.1 mm and a fineness of 0.15 to 5.5 dtex are preferable.

  The spun yarn of the present invention has polyester short fibers in the core and cotton fibers in the sheath. The polyester short fibers mainly contribute to imparting elasticity to the woven or knitted fabric, and the cotton fibers contribute to imparting a texture. In this invention, since the cotton fiber is distribute | arranged to the sheath part, the texture derived from a cotton fiber will be transmitted directly to a wearer. Moreover, since the polyester short fiber is used, the obtained woven or knitted fabric can be used outdoors, and the strength and the elongation recovery rate are not easily lowered. Moreover, pilling of the woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed by confining the polyester short fibers inside the spun yarn. That is, in the case of blended yarn, both fibers tend to get entangled as the opportunities for contact of both fibers increase. The occurrence of pilling is not preferable for maintaining the good appearance of the woven or knitted fabric.

  As the mixing ratio in the spun yarn of the present invention, the mass ratio of the core portion to the sheath portion (core portion / sheath portion) needs to be in the range of 0.4 to 1.5. When the mass ratio is outside this range, a woven or knitted fabric lacking the balance between stretchability and texture is obtained.

  And as thickness of a spun yarn, it is necessary to set it as the range of 5-50S in conversion of an English type cotton count. If the thickness is less than 5S, that is, thicker than 5S, a woven or knitted fabric suitable for the garment field cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the thickness exceeds 50S, that is, thinner than 50S, the spinning property of the spun yarn decreases.

  Next, a method for obtaining the spun yarn of the present invention will be described.

  The spun yarn of the present invention is prepared, for example, by preparing a roving yarn made of each fiber, and simultaneously spinning while arranging a roving yarn made of polyester short fiber on the core side and a roving yarn made of cotton fiber on the sheath side, Alternatively, prepare a sliver made of each fiber, and simultaneously spin while arranging a sliver made of polyester short fiber on the core side and a sliver made of cotton fiber on the sheath side, and then spinning the resulting composite roving yarn later Can be manufactured.

  Specifically, in the former method, first, each roving is produced by a series of spinning steps. Next, each roving is introduced into the ring spinning machine, and spinning is performed while increasing the feeding amount on the sheath side from the core side. At this time, each roving is introduced into the same draft region in parallel. As the roving to be introduced, one core side and one sheath side may be basically used. However, from the viewpoint of improving the coverage of the spun yarn, one core side roving is used by using a plurality of sheath side rovings. It is also possible to use a method of covering.

  On the other hand, also in the latter method, first, each sliver is produced by a series of spinning processes. Next, each sliver is introduced into the roving machine. At this time, each sliver is introduced in parallel to the same draft area, and at the same time, the core-side sliver is introduced outside the draft area and the sheath-side sliver is introduced inside as viewed from the flyer head. The angle formed by the draft axis direction (however, the yarn traveling direction) of the core side sliver and the line (however, the yarn traveling direction) connecting the front roller final nip point of the core side sliver and the flyer head is projected onto the horizontal plane. When set, it is preferably set so as to satisfy the range of 0 to 60 °. Further, the sheath side sliver is preferably supplied at a higher speed than the core side sliver, so that the sheath side is slightly loosened while the core side is slightly stretched. By carrying out like this, as a result of the twist by rotation of a flyer being propagated intensively to a core side sliver, a sheath side sliver can be wound around a core side sliver.

  After obtaining the roving yarn, the two-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention can be obtained by spinning using a known spinning machine.

  In the present invention, by using the above-described spun yarn, a woven or knitted fabric having a texture derived from cotton fibers and excellent stretchability, which can be used outdoors, and whose strength and elongation recovery rate are difficult to decrease is obtained. be able to. At this time, in the present invention, other yarns may be used in combination, and both can be used in combination by twisting, blending, drawing, arrangement, union, knitting and the like. However, in order to obtain the effect peculiar to the present invention, the spun yarn is preferably contained in the woven or knitted fabric in an amount of 40% by mass or more. As the other yarns, any yarn can be used, but a yarn that does not easily impair the effects unique to the present invention is preferably used.

  The density of the woven or knitted fabric may be set as appropriate in consideration of stretchability. When the density is somewhat coarse, the stretchability tends to be easily exhibited.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is suitable for various uniform materials. Among them, it is suitable for a working uniform material, can easily follow the movement of the wearer, can be made comfortable and excellent in various mechanical properties, and can be made into work clothes having an excellent texture.

  Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. In addition, the textile fabric obtained by the Example and the comparative example was evaluated by the following means.

1. Elongation rate Based on the constant load method described in JIS L1096, the elongation rate was measured in the weft direction of the sample. The elongation rate is a measure of stretchability, and by extension, becomes a measure of the ease with which the clothes follow the wearer's movement.

2. Elongation Recovery Rate After measuring “1. Elongation rate”, the elongation recovery rate was measured for the sample after 30 seconds of dewetting and the sample after 1 hour. The elongation recovery rate is a measure of the ease of occurrence of knee or elbow when wearing clothes, and thus also a measure of maintaining the aesthetics of the clothes.

3. Tear strength Based on the pendulum method described in JIS L1096, the tear strength was measured in both the warp and weft tear directions of the sample.

4). Pilling Based on method A (ICI method) described in JIS L1076, pilling of the sample was measured.

(Example)
First, a sliver (A) made of polyester short fibers having a fineness of 1.7 dtex and an effective fiber length of 44 mm and a sliver (B) made of cotton fibers having a fineness of 0.8 dtex and an effective fiber length of 29 mm were prepared. The polyester short fiber is a short fiber in which two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics are joined in a side-by-side manner.

Next, each sliver is introduced into the roving machine, and when viewed from the flyer head, (A) is arranged outside the draft region, (B) is arranged inside, and each is drafted, and later (A) is the core side, (B) Both were overlapped while being arranged on the sheath side to obtain a composite roving having a core / sheath mass ratio of 40/60. Then, the obtained composite roving was spun under normal conditions to obtain a double-layer spun yarn (X) of English cotton count 30S.
Further, a sliver (C) made of polyester short fibers having a fineness of 1.45 dtex and an effective fiber length of 38 mm and a sliver (D) made of cotton fibers having a fineness of 0.8 dtex and an effective fiber length of 38 mm were prepared, and the same as above. Then, after obtaining a composite roving having a core / sheath mass ratio of 30/70, spinning was performed to obtain a double-layer spun yarn (Y) of English cotton count 30S. The polyester short fibers constituting the sliver (C) are made of polyethylene terephthalate.
Then, the two-layer structure spun yarn (Y) is arranged on the warp yarn, and the two-layer structure spun yarn (X) is driven as a weft yarn using an air jet loom, and the warp density is 75 yarns / 2.54 cm, the weft yarn density is 70 yarns / 2. A living machine with a flat structure of .54 cm was obtained. The obtained raw machine was subjected to hair burning, scouring, mercerizing, relaxer, presetting, continuous dyeing, and final setting in this order.

  The woven fabric after processing was evaluated for the above items. The elongation rate was 16.8%, the recovery rate was 76.0% after 30 seconds of dewetting, 86.2% after 1 hour of dewetting, and the tear strength was warp. The tear direction was 16.4 N, the weft tear direction was 17.7 N, and the pilling was 4.5 grade.

(Comparative example)
The use of double-layered spun yarn (Y) for the wefts, and the step of the relaxer was omitted in the series of finishing processes, and the presetting conditions were changed to conditions that give the fabric stretchability. Except for the above, the same procedure as in the above Example was performed to obtain a woven fabric.

  The woven fabric after processing was evaluated for the above items. The elongation rate was 16.3%, the elongation recovery rate was 66.0% after 30 seconds of weight removal, 79.7% after 1 hour of weight removal, and the tear strength was warp. The tear direction was 16.7 N, the weft tear direction was 12.4 N, and the pilling was 4.5 grade.

  The woven fabric according to the comparative example is a woven fabric that has been given stretchability through the finishing process. However, although the stretchability is excellent, the elongation recovery rate is greatly reduced as compared with the fabric according to the example, and in the weft tearing direction. Such tear strength was also greatly reduced.

As described above, by using the double-layered spun yarn of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric that is excellent in texture and stretchability, can be used outdoors, and is excellent in various mechanical properties. Therefore, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is suitable for various uniform materials, and particularly suitable for a working uniform material.

Claims (2)

  A double-layered spun yarn comprising polyester short fibers joined to two side-by-side polyester polymers with different heat shrinkage properties in a side-by-side configuration and cotton fibers in the sheath. The two-layer structure spun yarn is characterized by having a mass ratio (core portion / sheath portion) to a portion of 0.4 to 1.5 and a thickness of 5 to 50S (English cotton count). A woven or knitted fabric using the double-layer structure spun yarn according to claim 1.