JPH1077584A - Yarn structure having worn-out cloth-like appearance and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a yarn structure comprising polyester yarns, capable of being dyed into various color tones, having the faded appearance and worn-out appearance of jeans, and having the worn-out cloth-like appearance. SOLUTION: This yarn structure comprises sheath-core complex type two layer structure polyester yarns. The core part of each yarn comprises polyester fibers slightly or not dyed with a dispersion dyestuff under the atmospheric pressure, and the sheath part comprises polyester fibers dyed with the dispersion dyestuff into a concentrated color under the atmospheric pressure. The sheath part surrounds the periphery of the core part to constitute the outer layer, and the core part is partially exposed to the surface.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a fibrous structure having a worn out appearance and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester fibers are originally developed to be characterized by being uniform in dyeing properties and being less discolored and discolored in washing, that is, being dyed with good color fastness. On the other hand, fashion in recent years is rich in diversity, and in recent fashion trends of young people, for example, blue denim,
Washed and worn out feelings are preferred. Among them, uniform polyester filaments also require unevenness, and materials having color unevenness typified by thick and thin yarn have formed one genre. Many proposals have been made for this thick-and-thin yarn, and various color spots have been made possible, but a thick-and-thin material that has actually peeled off or has the feeling of being peeled (outdated) has not been reached.

On the other hand, there has been proposed a worn-out feeling polyester fabric which aims at heterodyeability with a cationic dye in a core-sheath conjugate yarn of a cationic dyeable polymer and a normal polyester polymer (JP-A-7-173766). . However, in this prior art, since a heterochromatic property is imparted between the core and the sheath of the conjugate yarn, the feeling of peeling and wearing out is poor, and high-temperature dyeing is required.
A problem arises in dyeing with a cross-knitted woven fabric with other fibers such as natural fibers and acrylic fibers.

In addition, casual pants called bleach out denim are bleached twill fabrics or sewn products dyed with indigo dye after using a bleaching agent. Not only blue but also color denims of various hues are worn out, that is, products with a feeling of bleaching out have been favored. Conventionally, these products are colored with a reactive dye and then bleached with chlorine, or colored with a vat dye and bleached with chlorine, but each has its own defects. That is, the former is generally difficult to control the concentration of the dyed cloth because the chlorine fastness of the reactive dye is poor,
In the latter case, the chlorine fastness is too good and the feeling of bleaching out is hard to appear. In either case, the bleaching process is a batch method such as winch, and it takes a long time, and even if a bleaching agent is used, even the dye remaining without bleaching due to bleaching is affected by the bleaching agent. However, there remain problems such as reduced fastness and limited hue (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 6-322676). In addition, when sodium hypochlorite or the like is used as a bleaching agent, there is a disadvantage that workability is poor due to a problem of odor.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, can impart a variety of hues, and imparts the feeling of peeling and wearing of jeans in a polyester yarn at normal pressure. It is an object of the present invention to provide a fibrous structure having a worn-out appearance and a method of manufacturing the same.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a fiber structure comprising a core-sheath composite type two-layer polyester yarn in which the sheath is dyed more densely than the core, wherein the core comprises a disperse dye under normal pressure. The polyester yarn is a lightly dyed or undyed polyester yarn, and the sheath portion is a polyester yarn that is deeply dyed with a disperse dye under normal pressure, and the sheath portion surrounds the core portion to form an outer layer portion. A fibrous structure having an old-fashioned appearance characterized in that a part is partially exposed on the surface.

Further, the present invention provides a polyester yarn whose core is made of a polyester polymer which is lightly dyed or undyed with a disperse dye under normal pressure, and whose sheath is made of a polyester polymer which can be dyed with a disperse dye under normal pressure. Weaving and weaving a core-sheath composite type two-layered polyester yarn composed of a polyester yarn and a polyester fiber, and then subjecting the obtained fiber structure to at least one treatment selected from the group consisting of alkali treatment, hot water treatment and rubbing treatment And a dyeing treatment. A method for producing a fibrous structure having a worn-out appearance.

[0008]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The fiber structure having a worn-out appearance according to the present invention is obtained by dyeing a polyester-sheath composite-type double-layered polyester yarn made of a different polymer into various hues under ordinary pressure.
During or after dyeing, in order to obtain a worn out look, the fiber surface is actually partially removed by stripping or dissolving, such as jeans. If the removed portion does not have a metachromatic property to the portion before the removal, the removed portion does not exhibit the feeling of peeling, and it is necessary to maintain the strength even after partially removing the fiber surface.

Here, the core-sheath composite type 2 used in the present invention
With layer structure polyester yarn, when it becomes a fiber structure,
Like the jeans, they show the feeling of peeling off the color,
That is, it is necessary that the exposed core portion is colorless or light-colored by partial removal of the sheath portion, and that the sheath portion not removed is darker than the core portion. Therefore, the core-sheath composite type two-layer polyester yarn used in the present invention is composed of a modified polyester polymer whose sheath polymer is easily dyeable with a disperse dye under normal pressure and a normal polyester polymer whose core polymer is represented by polyethylene terephthalate. Is done. The reason that the sheath polymer is a modified polyester polymer is that, other than the above-mentioned hue, in the case of alkali weight reduction which may be used as a part of the removal method in the present invention, the sheath portion is easily weight-reduced so that the sheath portion can be partially removed. It is necessary to have. In addition, the sheath portion of the core-sheath composite type two-layer polyester yarn forms an outer layer portion by alternately twisting around the core portion which is lightly dyed or undyed than the sheath portion, and the core portion is partially formed. Must be exposed to the surface.

The polymer constituting the sheath is preferably a modified polyester polymer, more preferably a modified polyester polymer having a glass transition temperature (Tg) of 68 ° C. or less. Here, the glass transition temperature (Tg) means that at low temperature or room temperature, a polymer in an amorphous glass state in which molecular chains are frozen in a random coil shape or in a partially crystallized solid state increases the temperature. The temperature at which the micron Brownian motion of the polymer backbone begins. Above this Tg, the material gradually softens, flows when a force is applied, and finally becomes molten. When a modified polyester polymer having a Tg of 68 ° C. or less is used as the polymer constituting the sheath portion, the dye is easily diffused into the fiber due to low molecular chain crystallinity, and can be dyed in a dark color under normal pressure. .

The modified polyester polymer has, for example, a skeleton mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units and a copolymer of at least 8 mol% of adipic acid or other copolymerizable components.
Sebacic acid, polyethylene glycol and the like. In the case of adipic acid copolymerization, if it is less than 8 mol%, the effect of easy dyeing (dense dyeing) is small. Also, adipic acid has a copolymerization amount of at most 15 mol% or less, and if it exceeds 15 mol%, there is a concern about polymer fusion. These sheaths are dyeable to disperse dyes under normal pressure, while the cores are lightly or undyed to disperse dyes under normal pressure and dyeable at high temperatures of 130 ° C. Can easily correspond to those having a non-colored exposed portion. Further, the sheath may include fine particles such as titanium oxide.

On the other hand, the core portion is preferably a polymer having a glass transition temperature (Tg) of more than 68 ° C., for example, a normal polyester polymer represented by polyethylene terephthalate, and preferably a polymer having a dull luster. The bright polymer has high transparency, and even if the core is exposed, it looks the same color as the sheath and does not form a fibrous structure that feels like peeling. In order to obtain the dull effect, it is effective to include inorganic fine particles. Examples of the inorganic fine particles that can be used include titanium oxide, magnesium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, zircon, aluminum metaphosphate, and calcium phosphate.

Further, the sheath and the core may contain a stabilizer, an antioxidant, an antistatic agent, a fluorescent brightener, a catalyst, a coloring agent, etc. as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired. Good.

The form of the core-sheath composite type two-layer polyester yarn used in the present invention may be a uniform ordinary drawn yarn or a spot drawn yarn (thick and thin yarn). In addition, it is possible to use both long fibers and short fibers, and the single yarn denier is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.7 to 5 deniers, and particularly preferably 1 to 5 deniers.
3 denier is preferred.

In obtaining the worn-out fiber structure of the present invention, the above-mentioned core-sheath composite type two-layer structure polyester yarn is used,
For example, after combining two types of yarns having different elongations (high elongation yarns are side yarns) with air or the like, crimping obtained by false twisting and a processed yarn having a yarn length difference, and a shrinkage ratio of After combining different yarns (low shrinkage yarns are side yarns) with air or the like and then performing a heat treatment, the processed yarns may exhibit a yarn length difference, or may be a composite processed yarn with a natural fiber or the like.

The fibrous structure of the present invention may be a cellulose fiber such as cotton or hemp, a regenerated cellulosic fiber such as rayon, polynosic, cupra or tencel; a protein fiber such as wool or silk; a polyamide fiber; It may be knitted and woven with synthetic fibers such as fibers and acrylic fibers.

The polyester fiber is used for producing the fibrous structure of the present invention. The polyester fiber originally has excellent physical properties, and the object of the present invention is to remove the fiber to be peeled. Is an unsuitable fiber.
Therefore, a step for triggering peeling and / or a step for actually peeling (a rubbing step) is required. here,
The step of triggering the peeling is a method of deteriorating the sheath portion, which is the fiber surface, and includes, for example, an alkali treatment method and a hot water treatment method.

Of these, the alkali treatment method is a method of weight reduction using a common alkaline agent such as caustic soda, and can be a continuous weight loss method, a treatment method in a bath, or a partial treatment method such as partial application. In this case, in the continuous weight reduction method or the in-bath treatment method, since the entire fabric (fibrous structure) is uniformly treated, it is necessary to partially rub in a subsequent rubbing step. On the other hand, in the partial treatment method by partial coating, partial deterioration and partial weight loss progress, so that even in the rubbing step, the core portion is partially exposed even when rubbed uniformly. The weight loss rate varies depending on the purpose, but in the case of uniform treatment, if the weight loss rate exceeds the sheath component ratio, metachromatic properties cannot be obtained. The preferred weight loss rate is 30 to 60% by weight of the sheath component. The step of triggering the peeling may be before dyeing, during dyeing, or after dyeing, but is preferably before dyeing.

The rubbing step includes, for example, rubbing with a raw material and rubbing with a sewn product. There are two types of rubbing on the raw material: rubbing in a dry state and rubbing in a bath. Of these, dry rubbing refers to rubbing in a dry state, and a buffing process using a sandpaper or the like attached to the surface of a roller rotating at high speed can be used. In this case, it is possible to cause a difference in the rubbing effect depending on conditions such as the particle size of the sandpaper and the number of contact rotations between the roller and the surface to be processed. On the other hand, the rubbing in the bath is a method of rubbing, dropping, or impacting the dough to rub between the dough and the dough and the dyeing machine (can be used in combination with the dyeing step). here,
The kneading is performed under high temperature and high pressure, but may be an independent step. It is also possible in a simultaneous processing step with dyeing. The term "fall" refers to a method of repeating the fall with a high-temperature and high-pressure washer, and the term "impact" refers to a method of providing a collision plate in a dyeing machine and hitting the cloth there. This method is effective when used in combination with kneading.

The rubbing of the sewn product can be performed by the above-mentioned rubbing, but a method unique to the sewn product such as stone wash can also be adopted. This method is a method in which pumice and the like are added and mixed together with the sewn product, and the pumice repeatedly collides with and rubs against the sewn product to peel off the fabric surface, and is also an effective method in the present invention.

The dyeing of the fiber structure of the present invention is carried out by modifying the dyeability of the core with a polyester yarn made of a polyester polymer which is lightly dyed or undyed with a disperse dye under normal pressure and the sheath with a disperse dye under normal pressure. Since the polyester yarn is made of a polyester polymer, the core-sheath portion becomes the same color or a similar color of a light color and a dark color by performing normal pressure dispersion dyeing. At this time, the difference in the tint of the dyeability depends on the dye, the dyeing conditions, and the difference in the dyeability of the polymer. Among them, those having high dependence are the dyeing conditions and the polymer. In the case of high-temperature dyeing and adipic acid copolymerization, when the amount of adipic acid is less than 8 mol%, the core-sheath heterodyning effect is small.

When a normal aqueous dispersion is used, the dyeing temperature must be carried out under normal pressure (100 ° C. or lower), and the temperature must be 80 ° C. or higher, and is preferably 85 to 100 ° C. If the temperature is less than 80 ° C., the dyeability of the sheath is insufficient,
On the other hand, when the temperature exceeds 100 ° C., the dyeing speed of the core portion is sharply increased, and there is a possibility that the heterochromatic effect of the core-sheath decreases.

The disperse dye is a dye that is hardly soluble in water and is used for dyeing hydrophobic fibers from a system dispersed in water. Examples of the disperse dye include benzene azo (monoazo, disazo, etc.) and heterocyclic azo (thiazole azo, benzothiazole azo, quinoline azo, pyridine azo, imidazole azo, thiophen azo, etc., which are often used for dyeing polyester fibers and acetate fibers. ), Anthraquinone-based and condensed-based (quinophthaline, styryl, coumarin, etc.).

[0024]

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. In addition, each evaluation item in an Example was evaluated as follows. Evaluation of the weight loss rate The weight loss rate was evaluated by subjecting the yarn constituting the core and the yarn constituting the sheath to alkali treatment independently in advance, and evaluating according to the following formula. Weight loss rate (%) = {[sample weight before alkali treatment (g) −sample weight after alkali treatment (g)] / sample weight before alkali treatment (g)} × 100 worn out effect ◎; extremely good jeans-like peeling effect Has been obtained. ；: Jeans-like peeling effect is obtained. C: Jeans-like peeling effect was not obtained.

Example 1 As a core / sheath composite type double-layered polyester yarn, a core portion is made of a polyethylene terephthalate polymer containing 3.0% by weight of titanium oxide, and a sheath portion is made of adipic acid at 12.5 mol%. Modified polyester yarn [core: sheath (weight ratio) = 1: 1] composed of copolymerized modified polyethylene terephthalate polymer was spun at a spinning speed of 1,500 m / min, and a drawing temperature (preheating) of 68 ° C. ,
It was obtained by stretching 3.5 times at a set temperature of 150 ° C. Thereafter, the polyester yarn constituting the core / sheath portion was aligned and subjected to entanglement treatment and false twisting to obtain a core / sheath composite type two-layer polyester filament.

The filament was twisted at 800 times / mS to obtain a green fabric as a warp and a weft having a 3/1 twill structure (density; warp × weft = 160 × 100 / in). The woven fabric was refined with a score roll 400 (manufactured by Kao Corporation) at 1 g / liter and 80 ° C. for 20 minutes. After washing with water and drying, it was heat-treated at 160 ° C. for 1 minute. Then, it was boiled with caustic soda (50 g / l) for 60 minutes and alkali-treated. Next, the temperature was raised from room temperature at a rate of 2 ° C./min in the following dyeing bath, and dyeing was performed at 98 ° C. for 60 minutes.

Dye [Resolin Blue FBL (manufactured by Bayer)] 4% owf Dispersion leveling agent Disper VB [manufactured by Meisei Kasei Co., Ltd.] 0.5 g / l acetic acid 0.2 cc / l Bath ratio 1:10

Next, the stained sample was reduced and washed in a washing bath described below at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes. After reduction washing, wash thoroughly with water, dry and heat treat (160 ° C x
1 minute). Table 1 shows the results.

Example 2 The same treatment as in Example 1 was carried out except that after the alkali treatment, the cloth was rubbed for 10 minutes with a tumbler (rotary hot air drier) in which sandpaper was wound around the inner layer. And evaluated. Table 1 shows the results.

Example 3 The same treatment as in Example 1 was carried out, except that, after the alkali treatment, the cloth was buffed by buffing with a brush raising machine in which sandpaper was adhered to the surface of a roller rotating at high speed. evaluated. Table 1 shows the results.

Comparative Example 1 The same fabric as in Example 1 was used and treated in the same manner except that the dyeing temperature was set at 130 ° C., and evaluated. Table 1 shows the results. Comparative Example 2 The same fabric as in Example 2 was used, and the treatment and evaluation were performed in the same manner except that the dyeing temperature was 130 ° C. Table 1 shows the results.

Comparative Example 3 The same filaments as in Example 1 were used and treated and evaluated in the same manner except that the core / sheath configuration was reversed. Table 1 shows the results. Comparative Example 4 The same fabric as in Example 1 was used and treated and evaluated in the same manner except that the alkali treatment was not performed. Table 1 shows the results.

[0033]

[Table 1]

[0034]

According to the present invention, there can be obtained a fibrous structure which is composed of polyester yarn, can be dyed in various hues, has a feeling of peeling and wearing of jeans, and has a worn-out appearance.

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Claims (8)

[Claims] 1. A fiber structure comprising a core-sheath composite type two-layer polyester yarn in which a sheath portion is dyed more densely than a core portion, wherein the core portion is lightly dyed or undyed with a disperse dye under normal pressure. The yarn is a polyester yarn whose sheath is deeply dyed with a disperse dye under normal pressure, and the sheath surrounds the core and constitutes the outer layer, and the core is partially exposed to the surface A fibrous structure having an old-fashioned appearance, characterized in that it has a worn-out appearance. 2. The fiber structure having an worn-out appearance according to claim 1, wherein the polyester constituting the sheath has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of 68 ° C. or lower. 3. The fibrous structure having an worn-out appearance according to claim 1, wherein the sheath portion is a polyester yarn made of a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing 8 to 15 mol% of adipic acid. 4. The fiber structure having an worn-out appearance according to claim 1, wherein the polyester constituting the core has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of more than 68 ° C. 5. A polyester yarn comprising a polyester polymer whose core portion is lightly dyed or undyed with a disperse dye under normal pressure, and a polyester yarn whose sheath portion is made of a polyester polymer which can be deeply dyed with a disperse dye under normal pressure. Weaving and weaving the formed core-sheath composite type two-layer polyester yarn, and then subjecting the obtained fiber structure to at least one treatment selected from the group consisting of alkali treatment, hot water treatment and rubbing treatment, and dyeing treatment. A method for producing a fibrous structure having an old-fashioned appearance, characterized by performing the following. 6. The method for producing a fibrous structure having an worn-out appearance according to claim 5, wherein the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the polyester constituting the sheath portion is 68 ° C. or less. 7. The method for producing a fibrous structure having an outdated appearance according to claim 5, wherein the sheath is a polyester yarn made of a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing 8 to 15 mol% of adipic acid. 8. The method according to claim 5, wherein the polyester constituting the core has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of more than 68 ° C.