CN110055668A - A kind of processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric - Google Patents
A kind of processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN110055668A CN110055668A CN201910313991.1A CN201910313991A CN110055668A CN 110055668 A CN110055668 A CN 110055668A CN 201910313991 A CN201910313991 A CN 201910313991A CN 110055668 A CN110055668 A CN 110055668A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
- D04B1/126—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C13/00—Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C21/00—Shrinking by compressing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
- D06C3/10—Hooks, pin-blocks, or like apparatus
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/39—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using acid dyes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/445—Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
- D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
- D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8209—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing amide groups
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/20—Protein-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2211/24—Casein
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of processing methods of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric, include the following steps: raw material selection → yarn dyeing → weaving → final finishing → finished product packing, wherein, postfinishing process: including: fulling, and --- shaking grain, --- open-width --- rolls softening agent --- pre-setting --- plucking --- bur carding --- sizing --- hot light --- cropping --- decatizing.Raw material of the invention uses 80% wool protein fiber, 20% it is wool blended, wool protein fiber integrates the advantages of natural wool fiber and regenerated celulose fibre, gloss with silk, the softness of suede, soft feel of the fabric produced such as cashmere, thermal property is excellent, is rich in amino acid, with good skin-friendly, sucting wet air permeability is excellent, comfort is good, bright-colored, gloss is beautiful, can acid one-bath dyeing, original performance is still kept after dyeing, take safety with fabulous, can natural degradation, meet environmental requirement.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile industry fabric fields, and in particular to a kind of processing side of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric
Method.
Background technique
Wool protein fiber is wool to be ground into the suitable protein powder of partial size, and right using superfine powder technology
It carries out special process protection processing, the protein composite fibre prepared by regenerated celulose fibre production technology.The fibre
Dimension is different from traditional azlon technology of preparing, avoids proteolytic, will not destroy the original knot of protein
Structure has prevented traditional handicraft environmental pollution caused by subsequent crosslinking curing process, fiber material is realized in microstructure
The perfection of material and protein material coexists.
Fiber properties are analyzed as follows: 1. superior thermal properties are originated from special cross-section: common viscose fiber, azelon are cut
Face, cashmere section；2. being rich in a variety of amino acid, pro-skin moisturizing；3.C shape hollow section, is rich in amino acid, and moisture absorption heating is antibacterial
Antibacterial.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating faces
The processing method of material.
Technical solution: a kind of processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric includes the following steps:
Raw material selection → yarn dyeing → weaving → final finishing → finished product packing；
1 raw material is selected:
Yarn count 1:16Nm, slubbing (20% wool/80% Ai Silun)；
Yarn count 2:40D polyamide fibre；
2 yarn dyeings:
Black formula for dye liquor:
Dyeing: temperature is 100 DEG C, time 30min；
Grey formula for dye liquor:
Dyeing: temperature is 100 DEG C, time 30min；
The weaving of 3 fabrics:
Using computer Double-face clockwise hair jacquard fabric, using the layout of swallow-grid, fabric knitting is come out with jacquard,
Fabric is passed through to the finishing process of Double-face clockwise hair, the two sides of fabric there can be into good pile effects；
4 postfinishing process: including: fulling, and --- shaking grain, --- open-width --- rolls softening agent --- pre-setting --- drawing
Hair --- bur carding --- sizing --- hot light --- cropping --- decatizing；
The fulling: using rope form fulling, by the way that fabric is first put into machine entrance on one side, then passes through rotary machine
From entering out, then head and the tail are sewn to one piece of process with needlework.Rope form gatte rwalking is led to by the way that fabric to be put into wherein
Overregulate machine enters that cloth is wide, and air pressure, the control of time can be good at shrinking Density, and fabric thickens, and will knit
The villus covering of object on the surface of the fabric, plays the effect of flannelette；
Preparation is as follows: the fabric for first weaving large circle machine carries out overboard washing and takes off dry, then starting in fabric two
Do the mark that a length is one meter in rice or so place.Periodically sample will be compared with fabric for fulling process, keep sample
Shrinkage is similar to fabric.Fulling finishes, and carries out the record work of fabric, by the fulling time of fabric, door width after fulling, and one meter
Length records are got up after the contracting of cloth mark, parameter are provided for sizing below, in addition, to carry out the cleaner of fulling machine before fulling
Make；
Fulling parameter request is as follows: color is grey black, and 23KG/, the fulling time is 18 minutes, and door width is 50CM, fulling
Length is 80CM/100CM afterwards；
Described shakes grain: by the way that the good fabric of fulling is put into pellet rocker, the water of addition detergent and proper temperature,
Carry out specified time shakes grain, shakes grain five minutes；It, can be fold of fabric during fulling by carrying out shaking grain to fabric
Removal, can will also be attached to fabric surface, but the individuals fibers that do not reinforce wash away；It is as follows to shake a parameter request: shaking the time
It is 5 minutes；It is detergent with agent.
As optimization: described rolls softening agent: squezzing parameter request is as follows: speed 15km/h,.
As optimization: the pre-setting: upper confidential to ask: upper machine overfeeding (point upper overfeeding and lower super by adjusting machine
Hello) and breadth realize grammes per square metre and door width of the fabric in lower machine；By adjusting the temperature of forming machine, the speed of air blower, machine
Device running speed, to realize the moisture content and version type being formed and expect below；Set factors of being formed is as follows: machine run speed
11.5km/h；Upper overfeeding 118.3%；Lower overfeeding 106.6%；Breadth 105cm；160 DEG C of temperature.
As optimization: the pre-setting: under confidential ask: lower machine overfeeding (the upper overfeeding and lower super by adjusting machine
Hello), for preventing fabric from arc or lower arc situation on skew of weft and fabric occur；It is weighed again with engraving to fabric quarter, measures lower gate
Width is weighed to cloth；Lower machine parameter of being formed is as follows: grammes per square metre 430gsm；Door width 103cm；One weight 21kg.
As optimization: the plucking: using double-acting raising machine, is respectively provided on the roller that fluffs along needle and inverse two kinds of needle
Porcupine roller, they are successively spaced and arrange, wherein it is identical as the fabric direction of motion along porcupine roller, play the role of along hair, inverse porcupine roller and face
The material direction of motion is on the contrary, play the role of plucking, by adjusting the speed of fabric respectively or along needle, the speed of inverse porcupine roller, Ke Yiqi
To different suitable hair and plucking effect；Front is drawn 8 times, and reverse side is drawn 6 times.
As optimization: the bur carding: teazle gig therein mainly by bur, falls frame, and sink is tight
Frame, jockey pulley, fluff roller, small deflector roll, dust exhaust apparatus, and arc rushes down plate composition, because bur surface is by the consistent acicular hook in direction
Constitute, thus by its it is regular be distributed on swift, fluffing roller is formed, by adjusting fabric and carding roller
Contact surface can produce hairy effect, and have a brush roll below carding roller, with fabric rotation direction on the contrary, with
Fiber extra on bur is removed, fiber then removes by dust exhaust apparatus.
As optimization: the sizing: sizing set factors is as follows: machine run speed 11.5km/h；Upper overfeeding
116.3%；Lower overfeeding 105.6%；Breadth 105cm；160 DEG C of temperature；Lower machine side material parameter of being formed is as follows: grammes per square metre 430gsm；Door
Width 103cm；One weight 21kg.
As optimization: the cropping: being Double-face clockwise hair due to selecting fabric, needs two-sided cropping, and cooperation hot light is handled,
That is hot light processing is primary, and cropping is primary, repeatedly for three times.
As optimization: the decatizing: there is stable shape stability under conditions of damp and hot according to wool fiber, so sharp
It with the decatizing effect of decatizing, improve the feel of fabric and gloss can；Before decatizing, first lining cloth to be released, pay attention to lining
Cloth it is clean and tidy, be then placed on fabric is smooth in lining cloth, one piece wound in decatizing roller, steam is entered by lining cloth and is knitted
In object, decatizing operation is carried out；Decatizing parameter request is as follows: cloth feeding tension 800N, is incremented by tension 400N, cloth outputting tension 500N, speed
Degree is 18km/h, and the time is 10 minutes.
As optimization: the finished fabric specification is as follows: coil length is wool/Ai Silun of 148mm/50N；It is horizontal close
For 78 stringer numbers/10cm；Indulging close is 72 course counts/10cm.
The utility model has the advantages that raw material of the invention uses 80% wool protein fiber, 20% wool blended, wool protein fibre
The advantages of dimension integrates natural wool fiber and regenerated celulose fibre, the gloss with silk, the softness of suede, the face produced
Expect soft feel such as cashmere, thermal property is excellent, it is rich in amino acid, with good skin-friendly, sucting wet air permeability is excellent,
Comfort is good, bright-colored, gloss is beautiful, can acid one-bath dyeing, original performance is still kept after dyeing, there are fabulous clothes
With safety, can natural degradation, meet environmental requirement.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is flower pattern plan of weave of the invention；
Fig. 2 is weave diagram of the invention；
Fig. 3 is shearing machine structure chart of the invention.
Specific embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiments of the invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field
Personnel can better understand advantages and features of the invention, to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention
It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention
In embodiment, those of ordinary skill in the art's every other implementation obtained without making creative work
Example, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment
Process flow of the invention is as follows: raw material selection → yarn dyeing → weaving → final finishing → finished product packing.
1 raw material is selected:
Yarn count 1:16Nm, slubbing (20% wool/80% Ai Silun)；
Yarn count 2:40D polyamide fibre.
2 yarn dyeings:
Black formula for dye liquor:
Dyeing: temperature is 100 DEG C, time 30min；
Grey formula for dye liquor:
Dyeing: temperature is 100 DEG C, time 30min；
The weaving of 3 fabrics:
Use computer Double-face clockwise hair jacquard fabric.
Design idea:
Using the layout of swallow-grid, fabric knitting is come out with jacquard.Fabric is passed through into the rear whole of Double-face clockwise hair
The two sides of fabric can be had good pile effects by science and engineering sequence.It is simple generous using simple stitch technique.It is believed that energy
Access liking for masses.
Weaving process:
Equipment choosing: loom specification is introduced as shown in table 1.
1 loom specification of table
Flower pattern plan of weave is as shown in Figure 1；Weave diagram is as shown in Figure 2.
Triangle and row's needle arrangement such as table 2, shown in table 3.
2 triangle of table
4 postfinishing process
Including: fulling, --- shaking grain, --- open-width --- rolls softening agent --- pre-setting --- plucking --- bur comb
Hair --- sizing --- hot light --- cropping --- decatizing.
4.1 fulling
(1) rope form fulling
By the way that fabric is first put into machine entrance on one side, then then needle will be used from entering out by rotary machine from beginning to end
Line is sewn to one piece of process.Rope form gatte rwalking is by the way that fabric to be put into wherein, by wide, the gas that enters cloth for adjusting machine
Pressure, the control of time can be good at shrinking Density, and fabric thickens, and the villus of fabric is covered on fabric
On surface, the effect of flannelette is played.
(2) working principle of rope form gatte rwalking
According to the distinctive rubbing effectiveness of wool, i.e., wool is much larger than according to the coefficient of friction of the forbidden lamella piece with wool
Along the coefficient of friction principle of scale, being formed with forbidden lamella piece is leading rubbing effect.Then pass through the repeatedly outer of gatte rwalking
Power extrusion friction, formation fabric, which is constantly shunk, to thicken, the effect of surface nappy.
(3) preparation
The overboard washing of fabric progress that first large circle machine is woven is de- dry, then does one at two meters or so places of fabric beginning
The mark that length is one meter.Periodically sample will be compared with fabric for fulling process, keep the shrinkage of sample similar to fabric.
Fulling finishes, and carries out the record work of fabric, and by the fulling time of fabric, door width after fulling is long after the contracting of one meter of cloth mark
Degree record gets up, and provides parameter for sizing below.In addition, to carry out the cleaning of fulling machine before fulling.
(4) fulling requires as shown in table 4.
The requirement of 4 fulling of table
4.2 shake grain
(1) effect of industry washer
By the way that the good fabric of fulling to be put into pellet rocker, the water of detergent and proper temperature is added, when being specified
Between shake grain, shake grain five minutes.By carrying out shaking grain to fabric, fold of fabric during fulling can be removed, also can
It will be attached to fabric surface, but the individuals fibers that do not reinforce wash away.
(2) it is as shown in table 5 to shake a parameter request.
Table 5 shakes a parameter request
4.3 open-width
The effect of scutcher
Because large circle machine weave come be round fabric in rope form, in order to facilitate subsequent processings such as the sizings of fabric, need by
Row open-width, so the carry out open-width work for needing staff conscientious.
4.4 roll softening agent
Parameter request is as shown in table 6.
6 squezzing parameter request of table
4.5 pre-setting
(1) sizing purpose
Because wool fiber has good high-temperature shaping stability, i.e., it is unlikely to deform after high-temperature process, it being capable of moulding.And
It and is that the grammes per square metre of customer requirement, door width, the important link basis of the requirements such as fabric function (softness) are reached according to customer demand.
(2) the operation requirement of machine
1. above confidential ask
Gram of the fabric in lower machine is realized by adjusting upper machine overfeeding (point upper overfeeding and lower overfeeding) and the breadth of machine
Weight and door width.
By adjusting the temperature of forming machine, the speed of air blower, machine run speed, to realize that it is aqueous that sizing is expected below
Rate and version type.
Set factors of being formed is as shown in table 7.
The sizing set factors of table 7
It is confidential under 2. to ask
By adjusting the lower machine overfeeding (upper overfeeding and lower overfeeding) of machine, for preventing fabric from arc on skew of weft and fabric occur
Or lower arc situation.
It is weighed again with engraving to fabric quarter, measures lower gate width, weigh to cloth.
Lower machine side material parameter of being formed is as shown in table 8.
Machine parameter under table 8 is formed
4.6 napper
Full name card-clothing raising machine is divided into single-lift and double-acting raising machine.It is mainly by the machine of giving a dinner of welcome, jockey pulley, hair
Brush roll, into roller, porcupine roller, bristle roller, fluffing roller constituted.Here using double-acting raising machine.
(1) working principle of double-acting raising machine
It is respectively provided on fluffing roller along needle and inverse two kinds of porcupine rollers of needle, they are successively spaced and arrange.Wherein along porcupine roller and face
Expect that the direction of motion is identical, plays the role of along hair.Inverse porcupine roller and the fabric direction of motion are on the contrary, play the role of plucking.Pass through difference
It adjusts the speed of fabric or along needle, the speed of inverse porcupine roller can play different suitable hair and plucking effect.
(2) plucking
Plucking requires parameter as shown in table 9.
9 plucking of table requires parameter
4.7 bur combing machine for furs
Also known as teazle gig.Mainly by bur, frame is fallen, sink, tight frame, jockey pulley, fluff roller, small deflector roll,
Dust exhaust apparatus, arc rush down plate composition.
(1) working principle of bur combing machine for fur
Because bur surface be made of the consistent acicular hook in direction, so by its it is regular be distributed on swift, with regard to shape
At present carding roller (i.e. fluffing roller).By adjusting the contact surface of fabric and carding roller, capillary effect can produce
Fruit.And there is a brush roll below carding roller, with fabric rotation direction on the contrary, being used to remove fibre extra on bur
Dimension.Fiber is then removed by dust exhaust apparatus.
(2) bur carding
Bur carding requires parameter as shown in table 10.
10 bur carding parameter request of table
4.8 sizing
Set factors of being formed is as shown in table 11.
The sizing set factors of table 11
Lower machine side material parameter of being formed is as shown in table 12.
Machine side material parameter under table 12 is formed
4.9 hot light
(1) effect of single roller natural lustre finishing machine twice
Bright, the surface villus more soft fluffy by hot light treated shade fabric is used cooperatively energy with shearing machine
Enough play better effect.
The parameter request of single roller natural lustre finishing machine twice is as shown in table 13.
13 hot light parameter request of table
4.10 cropping
(1) cropping purpose
After hot light of fluffing, since the pile on fabric is different in size, in order to improve the tidiness of fabric, it is therefore desirable to give
Pile is had one's hair trimmed.
(2) shearing machine structure chart is as shown in Fig. 3 shearing machine structure chart, 1- circular knife, 2- flat cutter, 3- bracket, 4- fabric.
(3) shearing technology
According to style, the difference of kind, the shearing technology of fabric is also different.This selects fabric because being Double-face clockwise
Hair, needs two-sided cropping.Cooperate hot light processing, i.e. hot light processing is primary, and cropping is primary, repeatedly for three times.
(3) points for attention
General Influence cropping effect other than shearing technology, there are also shearing machines itself.Predominantly hair clipper, drag knife, mill
Whether the option of whetstone is reasonable.
General villus has the fixed-direction of oneself, so if forward cropping, fiber meeting fasciculation has ripple.It is inverse
To cropping, then fabric can be allowed concordantly smooth.
(5) cropping
Cropping parameter is as shown in table 14.
14 cropping parameter of table
4.11 decatizing
(1) purpose of decatizing
There is stable shape stability under conditions of damp and hot according to wool fiber, so making using the decatizing effect of decatizing
The feel and gloss of fabric can be improved.Before decatizing, first lining cloth to be released, then by fabric it is smooth be placed on lining cloth
In, one piece wound in decatizing roller.Steam is entered in fabric by lining cloth, carries out decatizing operation.
(2) factor of fabric is influenced
With the enhancing of decatizing time and pressure, the stability of fabric can be more preferable.But if overlong time or pressure too
Greatly, then the institutional framework that can damage fabric fibre causes irreversible consequence.In addition, because wool fabric is protein fibre, institute
It is also not easy with decatizing temperature excessively high.The clean and tidy of lining cloth is paid attention to before decatizing, prevents colour contamination.
3 decatizing require parameter as shown in Table 15.
15 decatizing parameter request of table
5 finished fabric specifications
Fabric specification is as shown in table 16.
16 fabric parameter of table
Raw material of the invention use 80% wool protein fiber, 20% it is wool blended, wool protein fiber collection is natural
The advantages of wool fiber and regenerated celulose fibre, has the gloss of silk, the softness of suede, the fabric produced such as cashmere
As soft feel, thermal property is excellent, is rich in amino acid, has good skin-friendly, and sucting wet air permeability is excellent, comfort
It is good, it is bright-colored, gloss is beautiful, can acid one-bath dyeing, original performance is still kept after dyeing, takes safety with fabulous
Property, can natural degradation, meet environmental requirement.
Claims (10)
1. a kind of processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric, characterized by the following steps: raw material selection →
Yarn dyeing → weaving → final finishing → finished product packing；
1 raw material is selected:
Yarn count 1:16Nm, slubbing (20% wool/80% Ai Silun)；
Yarn count 2:40D polyamide fibre；
2 yarn dyeings:
Black formula for dye liquor:
Dyeing: temperature is 100 DEG C, time 30min；
Grey formula for dye liquor:
Dyeing: temperature is 100 DEG C, time 30min；
The weaving of 3 fabrics:
Using computer Double-face clockwise hair jacquard fabric, using the layout of swallow-grid, fabric knitting is come out with jacquard, will be knitted
Object passes through the finishing process of Double-face clockwise hair, the two sides of fabric can be had good pile effects；
4 postfinishing process: including: fulling, and --- shaking grain, --- open-width --- rolls softening agent --- pre-setting --- plucking --- thorn
Fruit carding --- sizing --- hot light --- cropping --- decatizing；
The fulling: use rope form fulling, by by fabric on one side be first put into machine entrance, then by rotary machine from into
To out, then head and the tail are sewn to one piece of process with needlework.Rope form gatte rwalking passes through tune by the way that fabric to be put into wherein
Section machine enters that cloth is wide, and air pressure, the control of time can be good at shrinking Density, and fabric thickens, by fabric
Villus covers on the surface of the fabric, plays the effect of flannelette；
Preparation is as follows: the overboard washing of fabric progress for first weaving large circle machine is de- dry, then on two meters of left sides of fabric beginning
Do the mark that a length is one meter in right place.Periodically sample will be compared with fabric for fulling process, keep the shrinkage of sample
It is similar to fabric.Fulling finishes, and carries out the record work of fabric, by the fulling time of fabric, door width after fulling, and a meter Bu Ji
Number contracting after length records get up, for below sizing parameter is provided, in addition, to carry out the cleaning of fulling machine before fulling；
Fulling parameter request is as follows: color is grey black, and 23KG/, the fulling time is 18 minutes, and door width is 50CM, length after fulling
Degree is 80CM/100CM；
Described shakes grain: by the way that the good fabric of fulling to be put into pellet rocker, the water of detergent and proper temperature is added, carries out
Specified time shakes grain, shakes grain five minutes；By carrying out shaking grain to fabric, fold of fabric during fulling can be gone
It removes, can will also be attached to fabric surface, but the individuals fibers that do not reinforce wash away；It is as follows to shake a parameter request: shaking the time is 5
Minute；It is detergent with agent.
2. the processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: described rolls
Softening agent: squezzing parameter request is as follows: speed 15km/h,.
3. the processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: described is pre-
Sizing: above confidential to ask: to realize fabric in lower machine by adjusting upper machine overfeeding (point upper overfeeding and lower overfeeding) and the breadth of machine
When grammes per square metre and door width；By adjusting the temperature of forming machine, the speed of air blower, machine run speed, to realize sizing below
The moisture content and version type of material；Set factors of being formed is as follows: machine run speed 11.5km/h；Upper overfeeding 118.3%；Lower overfeeding
106.6%；Breadth 105cm；160 DEG C of temperature.
4. the processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: described is pre-
Sizing: under confidential ask: the lower machine overfeeding (upper overfeeding and lower overfeeding) by adjusting machine, for preventing fabric from skew of weft and face occur
Arc or lower arc situation on material；It is weighed again with engraving to fabric quarter, measures lower gate width, weigh to cloth；Lower machine of being formed is joined
Number is as follows: grammes per square metre 430gsm；Door width 103cm；One weight 21kg.
5. the processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the drawing
Hair: using double-acting raising machine, is respectively provided on the roller that fluffs along needle and inverse two kinds of porcupine rollers of needle, they are successively spaced and arrange,
In it is identical with the fabric direction of motion along porcupine roller, play the role of along hair, inverse porcupine roller and the fabric direction of motion are made on the contrary, playing plucking
With by adjusting the speed of fabric respectively or along needle, the speed of inverse porcupine roller can play different suitable hair and plucking effect；Just
Face is drawn 8 times, and reverse side is drawn 6 times.
6. the processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the thorn
Fruit carding: teazle gig therein mainly by bur, falls frame, and sink, tight frame, jockey pulley, fluff roller, small deflector roll,
Dust exhaust apparatus, arc rush down plate composition, because bur surface is made of the consistent acicular hook in direction, so its regular is distributed in
On swift, it is formed fluffing roller, by the contact surface of adjusting fabric and carding roller, can produce hairy effect, and
And have a brush roll below carding roller, with fabric rotation direction on the contrary, being used to remove fiber extra on bur, fiber
Then removed by dust exhaust apparatus.
7. the processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: described determines
Type: sizing set factors is as follows: machine run speed 11.5km/h；Upper overfeeding 116.3%；Lower overfeeding 105.6%；Breadth
105cm；160 DEG C of temperature；Lower machine side material parameter of being formed is as follows: grammes per square metre 430gsm；Door width 103cm；One weight 21kg.
8. the processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: described cuts
Hair: being Double-face clockwise hair due to selecting fabric, needs two-sided cropping, and cooperation hot light processing, i.e. hot light processing is primary, and cropping is primary,
Repeatedly for three times.
9. the processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the steaming
: stable shape stability is had under conditions of damp and hot according to wool fiber, so making fabric using the decatizing effect of decatizing
Feel and gloss can be improved；Before decatizing, first lining cloth to be released, pay attention to the clean and tidy of lining cloth, it is then that fabric is smooth
Be placed in lining cloth, one piece wound in decatizing roller, steam is entered in fabric by lining cloth, carry out decatizing operation；Decatizing ginseng
Number requires as follows: cloth feeding tension 800N, is incremented by tension 400N, cloth outputting tension 500N, speed 18km/h, the time is 10 minutes.
10. the processing method of novel hosiery jacquard weave over coating fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: described
Finished fabric specification is as follows: coil length is wool/Ai Silun of 148mm/50N；Close cross is 78 stringer numbers/10cm；It indulges and close is
72 course counts/10cm.
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| CN113279111A (en) * | 2021-04-26 | 2021-08-20 | 杭州新天元织造有限公司 | Double-sided special-shaped colored spun fabric and production method thereof |
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