CN105887298A - Compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents

Compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric and production method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105887298A
CN105887298A CN201610431529.8A CN201610431529A CN105887298A CN 105887298 A CN105887298 A CN 105887298A CN 201610431529 A CN201610431529 A CN 201610431529A CN 105887298 A CN105887298 A CN 105887298A
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speed
fabric
tencel
spinning
yarn
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CN105887298B (en
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凌良仲
王圣杰
严以登
姜亚飞
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JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
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JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/008Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8219Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and amide groups
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/08Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamino acids or polypeptides

Abstract

The invention provides a compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric. The fabric is made from 40 parts of CF compact spinning chitin, 30 parts of tencel and 30 parts of long stapled cotton, wherein 19.8tex (60<s>) compact spinning knitting yarn accounts for 95%, 20D spandex accounts for 5%, and the fabric is of a weft plain stitch weave. A production method of the fabric includes the steps of 1, spinning; 2, fabric weaving, wherein a bobbin winder and a circular knitting machine are used, and cropping spot check is carried out; 3, fabric printing and dyeing and after-finishing; 4, fabric after-finishing. The knitted garment fabric made from the three types of fiber blended yarn meets the requirements of people for the functions, comfort and environmental friendliness of fabric and has broad market prospects.

Description

Compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric and production method thereof
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, specifically a kind of compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric and Production method.
Background technology
Knitting fabric has good retractility, flexibility, hygroscopicity and breathability, and therefore knitted dress is suitable for human body The action change at each position, and quality is soft, comfortable and easy to wear.Knitted dress enters easy dress and fashionable dress from traditional underwear Field, and develop towards functional directions such as comfortable, health cares.When consumer demand constantly refines, people more advocate clothing When freedom and individual character, the development of functional knitting fabric is bound to present the trend of constantly rising.
By market survey, sum up and show that functional knitting fabric develops to three below aspect: (1) diversification: Functional knitting fabric will increasingly emphasize the diversification of raw material, the variation of yarn texture and the Composite of fabric tissue.With Differential, functionalized new fiber is the high-grade knitted fabric that development of raw materials goes out, and can improve the wearability of product;Fundamental tissue The integrated use organized with various patterns and knitting and woven, leather etc. compound use, make the flower pattern of knitting fabric, color With style increasingly diversification.(2) fashion-orientation: fashion increasingly focused on by functional knitting fabric.Integrated use color, style Etc. design element, make together with functional knitted dress is closely connected with motion, leisure, body-building etc., further expanded functionality The demand of knitted dress.(3) multi-functional compound: developing from simple function fiber to several functions fiber of knitting fabric Compound, make knitted dress have different functions and style.Functional treatment also from single functional treatment turn to two kinds with The arrangement that upper function combines, makes the Final finishing machining based conception of knitting fabric rise to the functional aspect taken into account mutually with comfortableness On.
Along with the enhancing of people's health care consciousness, the most gradually ventilative, the wind-proof from soft comfortable, moisture absorption to the requirement of textile Rain etc. expand to the functional aspects such as uvioresistant, far infrared, antibacterial and deodouring, anti-mould and anti-moth, antistatic, and various novel fabric Development and application and the development of new technology of preparing so that these requirements are gradually achieved.
During abroad the research and development to functional knitting fabric embodies a concentrated reflection of the research of fiber and yarn, i.e. develop tool There are fiber and the yarn of the functions such as antibacterial, antistatic, far infrared.Main employing physics or the method for chemistry, will have function Property material (antibacterial, ceramic powders etc.) be incorporated into fiber surface or fibrous inside so that it is there is antibacterial, far infrared, anti- Ultraviolets etc. are functional.At present, anti-bacterial fibre mainly has two classes, a class to be natural antibacterial fiber, and this fibrid is per se with antibacterial Function, has the function such as environmental protection, antibacterial and deodouring, and such as chitin fiber, bast-fibre etc., this fibrid market prospect is wide Wealthy.One class prepares antibacterial fibre for being joined when synthetic fiber spinning by antibacterial (such as quaternary ammonium salt or metallic compound) in fiber Dimension, this fibrid have antibacterial, washability good, it is easy to knit the dye advantage such as processing.In recent years, along with the transition of China's textile industry Upgrading, it is domestic that the most always at Study of functional knitting fabric, textile enterprise constantly employs new technology, new raw material, new technology, with time All entering, multi-crossed disciplines, exploitation has the scientific and technological fabric of high added value to meet the demand of people, guides simultaneously and promotes weaving The trend of new product.But, due to the exploitation of functional fiber, cost is high, puts into big, is concentrated mainly on fraction enterprise Industry, is difficult to extensive industrialization in the short time.
The knitting fabric of multifunctionality of multicomponent mixed yarn exploitation becomes the emphasis that domestic and international knitting fabric is paid close attention to.Chitin Fiber has ventilative functional of natural antibacterial, antibacterial pro-skin, moisture absorption, is viscous glue based fibre yet with chitin fiber, its Wet the lowest;By it with soft comfortable, the good tencel of the beautiful drapability of gloss and the highest long-staple cotton fiber blending of strength, it is possible in property Learn from other's strong points to offset one's weaknesses on can, fully demonstrate the premium properties of various fiber, give the multifunctionality of this textile.Use above-mentioned three kinds of fibres The knitted dress fabric of dimension mixed yarn exploitation, meets people to fabric function, comfortable, the requirement of environmental protection, will have wide city Field prospect.
Summary of the invention
In order to solve problems present in prior art, the present invention propose a kind of new compact spinning chitin/tencel/ Cotton blended knitted fabric and production method thereof, specific as follows:
A kind of compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric, this fabric is: CF compact spinning chitin 40/ tencel 30/ long-staple cotton 30 19.8tex (60s) compact spinning stocking yarn accounts for 95%;20D spandex thread accounts for 5%;Fabric tissue is latitude flat pin group Knit.
The effective gate width of fabric is 145cm;Grammes per square metre is 130g/m2.Described tencel is the LF tencel of low fibrillation.
A kind of production method of described fabric, step includes:
1) spinning:
1.1) long-staple cotton is combed clearly process step and is: blowing-carding-drawing unit carries out opening picking and comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning process → pre-drawing → bar also Volume → combing;
1.2) chitin fiber clearly comb process step be: blowing → comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning → pre-drawing;
1.3) tencel clearly comb process step be: blowing → comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning → pre-drawing;
1.4) long-staple cotton, chitin fiber and tencel drafting process: slubbing drafting → bis-also → end also → rove → spun yarn;
2) face weave: bobbin-winding machine → circular knitting machine → cropping sampling observation;
3) fabric printing and dyeing and Final finishing: blank loose winding → margin to seam → pre-setting → dyeing pre-treatment → dyeing → dehydration;
4) fabric Final finishing;
Described step 1) in:
Step 1.1)
Opening picking requires to include: FA106B opener Beater Speed 500r/min;The comprehensive Beater Speed of A072C lapper is 900r/min;Lap designs quantification of 350g/m;Lap length 38.33m;Lap regain 8.2%;
Carding machine requires to include: cylinder and Flat Gauge 7 × 6 × 6 × 6 × 7 English silk;Cylinder speed 360r/min;Licker-in Speed is 720r/min;Doffer speed is 34.5r/min;Cover plate speed is 280mm/min;Mote knife position is flat/90 °;Wet Big ration is 16g/5m;Regain is 7%;
Pre-drawing requires to include: combined roots is 6;First break draft multiple is 1.65;Roller gauge is 11 × 18mm;Speed 180m/min;Regain is 7%;Weight in wet base is quantitatively 21.0g/5m;
Bar rollback request include: combined roots is 28;It is 8 × 12mm that silver lap spaces;Speed is 105m/min;Regain It is 7%;Weight in wet base is quantitatively 68g/m;
Combing requires to include: speed is 215 pincers beat/min;Regain is 6.5%;Linters rate is 20%;
Step 1.2)
Requiring to include of scutcher: comprehensive Beater Speed is 750r/min;Lap roller speed is 10 turns/min;Fan speed Degree is 880 turns/min;Design wet quantification of 380g/m;Design fixed length is 31.6m;Blowing rouleau weighs 13.6kg surely;
Requiring to include of carding machine: cylinder and Flat Gauge are 8 × 7 × 7 × 7 × 8 English silks;Cylinder speed is 350r/ min;Licker-in speed is 680r/min;Cover plate speed is 120mm/min;Sliver exporting speed is 65m/min;Weight in wet base is quantitatively 22g/ 5m;Cotton knot is 3/1g;The interior irregularity cv% that bar is done is 5.97%;Regain is 11.0%;
Pre-drawing requires to include: combined roots is 6;First break draft multiple is 8.25;Roller gauge is 7 × 15mm;Weight in wet base Quantitatively 16.0g/5m;
Step 1.3)
Requiring to include of scutcher: comprehensive Beater Speed is 900r/min;Kirschner beater speed is 1200r/min;Design Wet quantification of 380g/m;Design fixed length is 31.6m;Blowing rouleau is the most heavily 13.6kg;
Requiring to include of comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning: cylinder and Flat Gauge are 8 × 7 × 7 × 7 × 8 English silks;Cylinder speed is 360r/min; Licker-in speed is 645r/min;Sliver exporting speed is 80m/min;Doffing speed is 25r/min;Weight in wet base is quantitatively 21.5g/5m;Cotton Knot is 1/1g;The 6.2% of the interior irregularity cv% that bar is dry;Regain is 9.8%;
Pre-drawing requires to include: combined roots is 6;First break draft multiple is 7.33;Roller gauge is 7 × 15mm;Weight in wet base Quantitatively 18.0g/5m;
Step 1.4)
Slubbing drafting requires to include: wet is quantitatively 22.0g/5m ,+2 tencel pre-drawings of 3 chitin pre-drawings+2 100% long-staple cotton, roller is every being 7 × 15mm, and total draft multiple is 5.95;
Two and require to include: wet is quantitatively 22.0g/5m, and number of doubling is 6, roller every being 7 × 15mm, total draft multiple It is 6;
End also requires to include: wet is quantitatively 17.0g/5m, and number of doubling is 6, roller every being 7 × 15mm, total draft multiple It is 6.52;
Requiring to include of fly frame: quantitative 4.0g/10m done by rove, and the design twist is 3.66, and back zone drafting multiple is 1.11 Times, total draft multiple is 8.5 times, and roller gauge is 25 × 38mm;
Requiring to include of spinning frame: yarn twist factor is 380, the PG1 4254 of rings/guiding principle, wire loop is HY8/0, pressure Power rod spacing block specification is 3.0mm, ratch 18 × 38mm;Spun yarn front roller rotating speed is 220r/min.
Described step 2) in,
Requiring to include of circular knitting machine: type is 30 inches of single-side machines, 28 pins, 90 tunnels;Fabric tissue is latitude flat pin group Knit;Knitting needle arrangement is that needle tray is booked knitting needle;Triangle arrangement is that each road is stitch cam;Requirement of entrying be requirement odd numbers be one Planting yarn, even numbers is entried every one for another kind of yarn that is one, and every road all adds spandex thread;Craft yarn length is 29cm/100 pin;Grey cloth weight It it is 20kg/;Light base door width is 130cm;
Described step 3) in,
Requiring to include of dyeing pre-treatment: add softening agent FT and 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl ammonium chloride sun in alkalescence body lotion Ion etherifying agent;
Requiring to include of dyeing: add 1/2 dyestuff → operating after adding levelling agent → operating 10min → be warming up to 40 DEG C 15min → add 1/2 dyestuff operating 20min → additions sodium chloride → be warming up to 80 DEG C → addition soda → operating 30min → 1 DEG C/min it is cooled in 40 DEG C → pickling and 15min;
Post processing is also carried out, it is desirable to including after dyeing:
Wash 15min → 2 time washing of soaping at 10min → neutralization washes → 90 DEG C, at each 10min → 40 DEG C at fixation Reason 15min → 40 DEG C softening agent processes 15min → discharge opeing;
(described soaping agent is the solid SN-S type soaping agent of moral, consumption reference product consumption;Described color fixing agent without particular requirement, Use conventional aldehyde-free colour stabilizer, consumption reference product consumption;Softening agent, without particular requirement, uses conventional product, Consumption reference product consumption;)
Described step 4) in,
Final finishing requires to include: cut open width → open width preshrunk loose-drying, and temperature is 110 DEG C, time a length of 2min → tentering fixed Shape, temperature is 175 DEG C, time a length of 25m/min → cropping placement → inspection → finished product.
The key problem in technology of the present invention includes:
1, the reasonable of spinning material selects and collocation.The blending rate of research chitin/tencel/cotton knitting mixed yarn, mixed Spinning process route and each road Technology and quality control.
2, the knitting and weaving technology of compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric is studied.Including greige goods fabric tissue Selection, the setting of machine process parameter, the control etc. of weaving humidity.
3, the Dyeing Technology of compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric is studied.Select rational pre-treatment Mode, dyestuff and dyeing, it is ensured that while dye-uptake, reduce the loss of strength.
4, the rear finishing duplex technology of compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric is studied.Including soft finish skill The operations such as art, sizing, preshrunk, it is ensured that the bright and clean softness of fabric, dimensionally stable.
This material uses GB18401-2010 " national general safety technical code for textile products " B class and GB/T22848-2009 " knitting finished fabric ", GB18401-2010 " national general safety technical code for textile products " B class;GB/T20944.3-2008 " the evaluation third portion of antibacterial textile performance: succusion " is checked, and top-quality product rate reaches 100%.
The principle of the invention is described as follows:
1, theory and technology prepares
Tencel fiber smooth surface, bigger than resistance, easily occur yarn slip broken end or produce electrostatic in spinning process Phenomenon, need to carry out pretreatment to tencel (LF) fiber, the cohesive force between reinforcing fiber, improves spinning property.
2, raw material prepares
Raw material: select the viscose chitin fibre of Shanghai Heng Jia trade Co., Ltd, the tencel of Lenzin company of Austria LF fiber and Xinjiang 137 long-staple cotton fiber.
3, equipment prepares
Spinning equipment mainly has: Domestic Blowing-carding Units, FA002A griping cotton machine, A035E mixed cotton slitter, FA106 opener, A092A cotton feeder, A076E lapper, A186F carding machine, JSFA288 combing machine, FA306A drawing frame, JWF1415 fly frame, DTM129 spinning frame, those promises of Italy are got profit circular knitting machine and Germany's Thies (this) Farbekesse type staining machine.
Three, development and research of technique
This compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric select compact spinning chitin fiber, tencel (LF) fiber and Long-staple cotton fiber mixed yarn 9.8tex, additional 20D spandex thread, to weave through large circle machine, dyeing and Final finishing process.Now will be tight The close concrete development process spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric is summarized as follows:
1, raw material choice
For ensureing yarn quality, it is simple to following process, viscose chitin fibre selects 1.67dtex38mm;Tencel (LF) 1.4dtex × 38mm selected by fiber;137 Xinjiang Long staple cotton selected by long-staple cotton, and blending ratio is chitin fiber 40/ tencel LF30/ Long-staple cotton fiber 30, uses compact spinning technology to spin.
2, product weave specification
Fabric tissue uses latitude plain stitch, and additional 20D spandex thread is weaved, and increases elasticity and the extensibility of fabric, can do The knitting fabric such as cotton jersey, backless blouse, grammes per square metre is 130g/m2, fabric color selects the popular colours such as the colour of skin, white, claret.
3, spinning and weaving operation
In spinning process, tencel (LF) fiber tencel fiber smooth surface, bigger than resistance, easily send out in spinning process Raw yarn slips broken end or produces electrostatic phenomenon, tencel (LF) fiber need to be carried out pretreatment.Due to chitin fiber, tencel (LF) different with cotton knot with the performance of long-staple cotton fiber and impurities, should not be at carding procedure hybrid process, chitin fiber Need to be through blowing-comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning with tencel LF fiber, long-staple cotton fiber need to join-combing preparation-combing process through combing, the most each Become bar.Having higher regain due to chitin fiber and moisture absorption is bloating tendency, fibre cohesion is poor, but its irregularity of length Little, impurity is few, so in opening or cleaning operation, should follow the technique of " many pines are few to be beaten, light beating and heavy combing ", between suitable amplification hired roughneck to dirt rod Distance, suitably reduces dirt rod and dirt rod spacer, reduces established angle, to reduce fibre damage.At carding step, mainly solve Chitin fiber becomes net to become the problem of bar difficulty, suitably reduces the speed of cylinder, licker-in, grasp cylinder bigger than normal and Flat Gauge, choosing With rational doffer speed and weight of card sliver, use less Draft Configuration, reduce web tension force.Tencel fiber is prone to shredding also Rare being entangled with, therefore, cotton cleaning process uses abbreviated system, reduces striking point, beats with comb generation, and many combs are few to be beaten, the technique fallen less; Carding step need to reduce the speed of licker-in and cylinder, and increase cover plate spaces with cylinder.At mixing in doubling step, long-staple cotton yarn, The chitin fiber carded sliver and tencel fiber pre-drawing mix on first drawing frame, through three road draftings, it is ensured that mixing is all Even.In mixing in doubling step, reasonable disposition back zone drafting multiple, use the technique concentrating proparea drawing-off, to improve stretching of fiber The depth of parallelism, reduces ripe bar quantitatively and calender roller speed, prevents strip from blocking horn mouth and circle of inclined tube.At Roving Frames, adopt With low velocity, less back area draft, bigger roving twist coefficient, to ensure roving yarn quality, reduce rove broken end.At spun yarn Operation, uses less back zone drafting multiple, can make to embrace between yarn fiber and closely, reduce diffusion, make spinning evenness be changed Kind, the most higher grasp of twist factor, to improve yarn strength, it is ensured that being smoothed out of later process.
During looming weaving, it is more that suitable reduction warp tension and employing can solve Yarn break compared with the slow-speed of revolution, cloth cover broken hole More problem, it is ensured that being smoothed out of production.
4, dyeing and finishing process
Dyeing uses reactive dye one-bath dyeing, and its dyeing mainly comprises pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing process, Be specially kiering, oxygen bleaching, dye, wash, softness, loose-drying, tentering, sizing and shrinking processes.
Detailed description of the invention
This compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric is to use chitin fiber, tencel (LF) and long-staple cotton to mix Spin, utilize Advance of Compact Spinning Technology to spin, process through large circle machine weaving, dyeing and Final finishing.
Compact spinning is a kind of Advanced Spinning Technologies carrying out spinning on the Novel ring spindle spinning frame improved, at ring spindle yarn Add a fibre deposition district before machine travel device, essentially eliminate front roller and twist triangle to the spinning between twisting point District, fiber strip, after front roller nip exports, first passes through abnormity aspiration channel overcoat grid ring, and yarn is attached in grid ring, Together move with grid ring, due to contraction and the polymerization of air-flow, make strand integrated composite, rotation by the air draught groove of special pipe, Progressively transferring cylinder to from flat belt-like, the termination of fiber is all twisted in yarn, and therefore resultant yarn is closely, yarn appearance light Clean, filoplume is few.Due to twisting before ultimate fibre fully stretch, parallel, do not have filoplume to stretch out sliver main body, so resultant yarn filoplume is very Few, closely, mutual cohesive force is big in ultimate fibre arrangement, this strength also contributing to improve yarn, evenness fault, and thick, details refers to It is better than traditional yarn to mark.Due to the These characteristics of compact spinning, provide extraordinary condition for next procedure, alleviate starching, The pressure of the operation such as singe.
Use multiple fiber blend, it is possible to learn from other's strong points to offset one's weaknesses in performance, fully demonstrate the premium properties of various fiber, give This textile product is multi-functional.
Chitin fiber is with natural high polymer dried small shrimps, Carapax Eriocheir sinensis etc. as raw material, through wet spinning technology process green Color fibre, this fiber has natural antibacterial functions, good biocompatibility and an excellent textile process performance, Ke Yimian, The fiber blends such as terylene, are the functional fibers of a kind of environmental protection.
Tencel (LF) fiber is with natural wood as raw material, uses solvent-spinning method, adds cross-linking agent, and the one of production is green Color environment-protection fiber.This fiber without fibrillation, have the gloss as good drapability, silk, washing stability, dyeability and The feel of plentiful softness.
Long-staple cotton fiber has higher strength, and yarn unevenness is little, and cotton knot is few, and impurity is few, and the fabric being processed into is soft Comfortable, moisture absorption is breathed freely.
The development process of this compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric and production method is described as follows:
One, raw material choice technology
The leading indicator of chitin fiber: fiber linear density 1.67dtex, length 38mm, elongation at break 16.98%, disconnected Resistance to spalling 2.27cN/dtex, regain 11.39%;The leading indicator of tencel LF fiber: fineness 1.4dtex, length 38mm, disconnected Resistance to spalling 3.74cN/dtex, regain 9.62%;Long-staple cotton fiber selects 137 Xinjiang Long staple cotton;Employing compact spinning technology spins The knitting mixed yarn of 9.8tex.Wherein the content of chitin fiber accounts for 40%, and the content of tencel LF fiber accounts for 30%, long-staple cotton fiber Content account for 30%.By these three fiber blend, the performance complement of various fibers or enhancing, this mixed yarn knits the knitted side of system Material meets consumer to functionalization, the requirement of comfortable environment-protection.
Two, spinning technology requirement
This is the closeest spin chitin/tencel LF/ cotton blended knitted fabric select compact spinning chitin fiber and tencel (LF) fiber, Long-staple cotton fiber mixed yarn 9.8tex, additional 20D spandex thread, to weave through large circle machine, dyeing and Final finishing process.
In spinning process, owing to tencel (LF) fiber surface is smooth, bigger than resistance, spinning process easily occurs palpus Bar slips broken end or produces electrostatic phenomenon, and tencel (LF) fiber need to carry out pretreatment, improves spinnability.Its preprocess method is such as Under: with accounting for the antistatic oil preparation of tencel dry weight 0.7% and the water mix homogeneously of 10 times, it is sprayed on loose raw material, seals car Between stand after one day, then can spin after 4-5 hour dry.Due to chitin fiber, tencel (LF) and long-staple cotton fiber Performance and impurities different with cotton knot, should not in carding procedure hybrid process, chitin fiber and tencel LF fiber need through Crossing blowing-comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, long-staple cotton fiber need to join-combing preparation-combing process through combing, the most each becomes bar.Due to chitin Fiber has higher regain and moisture absorption is bloating tendency, and fibre cohesion is poor, but its irregularity of length is little, and impurity is few, so In opening or cleaning operation, the technique that " many pines are few to be beaten, light beating and heavy combing " should be followed, suitably amplification hired roughneck to dirt interrod spacing from, suitably reduce Dirt rod and dirt rod spacer, reduce established angle, to reduce fibre damage.At carding step, mainly solve chitin fiber and become Net becomes the problem that bar is difficult, suitably reduces the speed of cylinder, licker-in, grasp cylinder bigger than normal and Flat Gauge, selects rational doffer Speed and weight of card sliver, use less Draft Configuration, reduces web tension force.Tencel fiber is prone to shredding and rare is entangled with, because of This, cotton cleaning process uses abbreviated system, reduces striking point, and to comb for beating, many combs are few to be beaten, the technique fallen less;Carding step needs Reducing licker-in and the speed of cylinder, increase cover plate spaces with cylinder.At mixing in doubling step, long-staple cotton yarn, chitin fiber The carded sliver and tencel fiber pre-drawing mix on first drawing frame, through three road draftings, it is ensured that mix homogeneously.In drafting work In sequence, reasonable disposition back zone drafting multiple, use the technique concentrating proparea drawing-off, to improve the extended parallelization of fiber, reduce Ripe bar quantitatively and calender roller speed, prevents strip from blocking horn mouth and circle of inclined tube.At Roving Frames, use low velocity, relatively Little back area draft, bigger roving twist coefficient, to ensure roving yarn quality, reduces rove broken end.At spinning process, use relatively Little back zone drafting multiple, can make to embrace between yarn fiber and closely, reduce diffusion, make spinning evenness be improved, and twist factor exists Higher grasp in the range of permission, to improve yarn strength, it is ensured that being smoothed out of later process.
Three, weaving process technology requirement
The yarn that compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric is used is compact spinning chitin 40/ tencel LF30/ long-staple cotton 30 9.8tex (60s) knitting yarn, additional 20D spandex thread, select Italy's promise circular knitting machine of getting profit to enter Row trial-production and production.
Table 1 requirements of weaving process
Grey cloth title Compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric
Type 30 〃 (inch) single-side machine 28N (pin) 90F (road)
Yarn count Cotton 30 9.8texK of compact spinning chitin 40/ tencel 30/, add 20D ammonia silk
Fabric tissue Latitude plain stitch
Knitting needle arranges Needle tray is booked knitting needle
Triangle arrangement Each road is stitch cam
Entry requirement Requiring that odd numbers is a kind of yarn, even numbers is another kind of yarn (entrys every), and every road all adds spandex thread.
Craft yarn is long 29cm/100N (pin)
Grey cloth weight 20kg/
Light base door width 130cm
Knitting and weaving operation, first according to door width and the grammes per square metre of yarn count and requirement, selects suitable circular knitting machine model.Machine During upper weaving, to suitably reduce warp tension and use the relatively slow-speed of revolution, to reduce the generation that the accident of yarn extends and breaks end, protecting What card produced is smoothed out.Yarn tension general control is advisable at 3-8g, crosses conference and produces broken hole;The least, it is difficult to drive, the most easily Dropped stitch occurs.Speed 12-15r/min, no more than 18r/min, the most easily there is broken hole in speed.
Four, Final finishing technology requirement
Dyeing rear finishing duplex process flow: blank loose winding margin to seam pre-setting tape edge (one-tenth cylinder) dyeing pre-treatment Dyeing rinse dehydration cut open width sizing fall machine packaging.
The yarn used due to this knitting fabric is viscose chitin fibre, tencel LF fiber and long-staple cotton fiber, institute To use reactive dyeing, this dyeing is selected the reactive dye of Zhejiang Province Runtu intercalated Co., Ltd, its good level-dyeing property, After dyeing, every color fastness is higher.In pre-treatment and dyeing, add antistatic softening agent, prevent fabric in whole process During produce and hook silk, folding line and uneven dyeing.Owing to chitin fiber and cotton fiber there are differences in structure and performance, dye Material dyeing rate on both fibers is different, causes chitin poor with cotton homochromatism, this point when dye dark color product, Show is particularly evident.Use 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl salmiac cation etherifying agent, in alkaline medium, cotton fiber is fitted When cation-modified process, reduce aberration generation.In dyeing course, add cotton levelling agent, make dyestuff be uniformly dispersed, Prevent the too much gathering of dye molecule.Additionally, during Final finishing, fabric is carried out thermal finalization, collated to adjust fabric Shrinkage after processing and meet client to fabric width and the requirement of grammes per square metre stability.
This example is described as follows:
One, product specification
130g/m2The compact spinning chitin 40/ tencel LF30/ long-staple cotton 3019.8tex of 145cm latitude plain stitch 95% (60s) * 5% 20D spandex thread.
Two, the technological process of production
1, spinning technological process
1.--pre-drawing (FA306A)--bar also rolls up (the JSFA360A)--combing (JSFA288) of long-staple cotton: Blowing carding
2. chitin fiber: blowing (A076E)--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning (A186F)--pre-drawing (HSR1000)
3. tencel LF: blowing (FA141A)--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning (FA203A)--pre-drawing (HSR1000)
1.+2.+3.--slubbing drafting (HSR1000)--two also (HSR1000)--end also (HSR1000)--rove (JWF1415)--spun yarn (JW1516)
2, weaving process flow process
GA016 bobbin-winding machine----stack circular knitting machine by the transport of cropping sampling observation--sheet of weighing--grey cloth
3, printing and dyeing and rear finishing duplex process flow
------------soft sizing--preshrunk--falls machine pre-setting margin to seam blank loose winding in dehydration in dyeing in dyeing pre-treatment Packaging
Three, technological parameter and key problem in technology
1, yarning process parameter and key point
(1) long-staple cotton opening or cleaning comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning main technologic parameters
(a) opening picking main technologic parameters:
FA106B Beater Speed 500r/min;
The comprehensive Beater Speed of A072C is 900r/min;
Lap designs quantification of 350g/m;
Lap length 38.33m;
Lap regain 8.2%.
(b) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning main technologic parameters:
Cylinder~Flat Gauge 7 × 6 × 6 × 6 × 7 ";
Cylinder speed 360r/min;
Licker-in speed is 720r/min;
Doffer speed is 34.5r/min;
Cover plate speed is 280mm/min;
Mote knife position: flat, 90 °;
The quantitative 16g/5m of weight in wet base;
Regain 7%.
(c) combing pre-drawing technological parameter:
Combined roots 6;
First break draft 1.65;
Space 11 × 18mm;
Speed 180m/min;
Moisture regain 7%;
Weight in wet base 21.0g/5m.
D () bar also rolls up technological parameter:
Combined roots 28;
Silver lap spaces 8 × 12mm;
Speed 105m/min;
Moisture regain 7%;
Weight in wet base 68g/m.
(e) combing parameter:
Speed: 215 pincers beat/min;
Moisture regain: 6.5%;
Linters rate 20%;
(2) chitin blowing comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning main technologic parameters
(a) opening picking main technologic parameters
A076E comprehensive Beater Speed 750r/min
Lap roller speed: 10 turns/min
Fan speed: 880 turns/min
Design wet quantification of 380g/m
Design fixed length 31.6m
Blowing rouleau weighs 13.6kg (containing cotton pricker) surely
(b) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning main technologic parameters
Cylinder-Flat Gauge 8*7*7*7*8 "
Cylinder speed 350r/min
Licker-in speed 680r/min
Cover plate speed 120mm/min
Sliver exporting speed 65m/min
Quantitatively 22g/5m
Cotton knot: 3/1g
Bar does cv%:5.97%
Moisture regain %:11.0%
(3) tencel LF fiber blowing comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning main technologic parameters
(a) blowing main technologic parameters
FA141 comprehensive Beater Speed 900r/min
Kirschner beater speed 1200r/min
Design wet quantification of 380g/m
Design fixed length 31.6m
Blowing rouleau weighs 13.6kg (containing cotton pricker) surely
(b) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning main technologic parameters
Cylinder-Flat Gauge 8*7*7*7*8 "
Cylinder speed 360r/min
Licker-in speed 645r/min
Sliver exporting speed 80m/min
Doffing speed: 25 turns/min
Quantitative: 21.5g/5m
Cotton knot: 1/1g
Bar does cv%:6.2%
Moisture regain %:9.8%
(4) chitin fiber pre-drawing, tencel LF pre-drawing main technologic parameters:
Table 1 pre-drawing technological parameter
(5) drafting main technologic parameters:
Table 2 drawing process parameter
(6) rove main technologic parameters
Quantitative 4.0g/10m done by rove, designs the twist 3.66, back zone drafting multiple 1.11 times, total draft multiple 8.5 times, sieve Draw the 25*38mm that spaces.
(7) spun yarn main technologic parameters
Yarn twist factor is designed as 380, rings PG1 4254, wire loop HY8/0,3.0 press bar distance clips, roller center Away from 18 × 38;Spun yarn front roller rotating speed 220 revs/min.
2, knitting and weaving
Weaving process flow process:
--looming weaving (single-side machine)--stack by the transport of cropping sampling observation--sheet of weighing--grey cloth in raw material incoming inspection.
Weaving knitting technology:
Table 3 weaving process requires table
Grey cloth title Compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric
Type 30 〃 (inch) single-side machine 28N (pin) 90F (road)
Yarn count Cotton 30 9.8texK of compact spinning chitin 40/ tencel 30/, add 20D ammonia silk
Fabric tissue Latitude plain stitch
Knitting needle arranges Needle tray is booked knitting needle
Triangle arrangement Each road is stitch cam
Entry requirement Requiring that odd numbers is a kind of yarn, even numbers is another kind of yarn (entrys every), and every road all adds spandex thread.
Craft yarn is long 29cm/100N (pin)
Grey cloth weight 20kg/
Light base door width 130cm
3, dyeing, postfinishing process parameter and key point
(1) pre-treating technology
(1) cation pretreating process
Technology preparation:
(2) dyeing
Technology preparation
Dyeing flow process
Add levelling agent operating 10min be warming up to 40 DEG C-add 1/2 dyestuff operating 15min add 1/2 dyestuff Operating 20min addition sodium chloride is warming up to 80 DEG C of addition soda operating 30min 1 DEG C and is cooled in 40 DEG C of pickling And 15min.
(3) dye post processing
Technology preparation
Dispersion soaping agent SN-S 2g/L
Color fixing agent 3.5g/L
Softening agent 2.5g/L
Technological process
Wash in 10min--and wash--soap (90 DEG C, 15min)--washing (10min, 2 times)--color fixing agent fixation (40 DEG C, 15min)--softening agent (40 DEG C, 15min)--discharge opeing
(4) setting process is arranged
Technological process: dehydration--cuing open width--open width preshrunk loose-drying (110 DEG C, 2min)--tentering setting (175 DEG C, 25m/min)--cropping placement--inspection--finished product.
The inspection situation such as following table of this fabric:
Note: the evaluation of GB/T20944.3-2008 antibacterial effect: staphylococcus aureus and colibacillary bacteriostasis rate >= 70%, or the bacteriostasis rate of Candida albicans is reached >=60%, sample has antibacterial effect.

Claims (4)

1. compact spinning chitin/tencel/cotton blended knitted fabric, is characterized in that this fabric is:
CF compact spinning chitin 40/ tencel 30/ long-staple cotton 30 19.8tex (60s) compact spinning stocking yarn accounts for 95%;
20D spandex thread accounts for 5%;
Fabric tissue is latitude plain stitch.
Fabric the most according to claim 1, is characterized in that the effective gate width of this fabric is 145cm;Grammes per square metre is 130g/m2
Fabric the most according to claim 1, is characterized in that the LF tencel that described tencel is low fibrillation.
4. a production method for fabric described in claim 1, is characterized in that step includes:
1) spinning:
1.1) long-staple cotton is combed clearly process step and is: blowing-carding-drawing unit carry out opening picking and comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning process → pre-drawing → bar roll up → Combing;
1.2) chitin fiber clearly comb process step be: blowing → comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning → pre-drawing;
1.3) tencel clearly comb process step be: blowing → comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning → pre-drawing;
1.4) long-staple cotton, chitin fiber and tencel drafting process: slubbing drafting → bis-also → end also → rove → spun yarn;
2) face weave: bobbin-winding machine → circular knitting machine → cropping sampling observation;
3) fabric printing and dyeing and Final finishing: blank loose winding → margin to seam → pre-setting → dyeing pre-treatment → dyeing → dehydration;
4) fabric Final finishing;
Described step 1) in:
Step 1.1)
Opening picking requires to include: FA106B opener Beater Speed 500r/min;The comprehensive Beater Speed of A072C lapper is 900r/min;Lap designs quantification of 350g/m;Lap length 38.33m;Lap regain 8.2%;
Carding machine requires to include: cylinder and Flat Gauge 7 × 6 × 6 × 6 × 7 English silk;Cylinder speed 360r/min;Licker-in speed For 720r/min;Doffer speed is 34.5r/min;Cover plate speed is 280mm/min;Mote knife position is flat/90 °;Weight in wet base is fixed Amount is 16g/5m;Regain is 7%;
Pre-drawing requires to include: combined roots is 6;First break draft multiple is 1.65;Roller gauge is 11 × 18mm;Speed 180m/min;Regain is 7%;Weight in wet base is quantitatively 21.0g/5m;
Bar rollback request include: combined roots is 28;It is 8 × 12mm that silver lap spaces;Speed is 105m/min;Regain is 7%;Weight in wet base is quantitatively 68g/m;
Combing requires to include: speed is 215 pincers beat/min;Regain is 6.5%;Linters rate is 20%;
Step 1.2)
Requiring to include of scutcher: comprehensive Beater Speed is 750r/min;Lap roller speed is 10 turns/min;Fan speed is 880 turns/min;Design wet quantification of 380g/m;Design fixed length is 31.6m;Blowing rouleau weighs 13.6kg surely;
Requiring to include of carding machine: cylinder and Flat Gauge are 8 × 7 × 7 × 7 × 8 English silks;Cylinder speed is 350r/min;Thorn Roller speed is 680r/min;Cover plate speed is 120mm/min;Sliver exporting speed is 65m/min;Weight in wet base is quantitatively 22g/5m;Cotton knot It is 3/1g;The interior irregularity cv% that bar is done is 5.97%;Regain is 11.0%;
Pre-drawing requires to include: combined roots is 6;First break draft multiple is 8.25;Roller gauge is 7 × 15mm;Weight in wet base is quantitative 16.0g/5m;
Step 1.3)
Requiring to include of scutcher: comprehensive Beater Speed is 900r/min;Kirschner beater speed is 1200r/min;It is wet fixed to design Amount is 380g/m;Design fixed length is 31.6m;Blowing rouleau is the most heavily 13.6kg;
Requiring to include of comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning: cylinder and Flat Gauge are 8 × 7 × 7 × 7 × 8 English silks;Cylinder speed is 360r/min;Licker-in Speed is 645r/min;Sliver exporting speed is 80m/min;Doffing speed is 25r/min;Weight in wet base is quantitatively 21.5g/5m;Cotton knot is 1 Grain/1g;The 6.2% of the interior irregularity cv% that bar is dry;Regain is 9.8%;
Pre-drawing requires to include: combined roots is 6;First break draft multiple is 7.33;Roller gauge is 7 × 15mm;Weight in wet base is quantitative 18.0g/5m;
Step 1.4)
Slubbing drafting requires to include: wet is quantitatively 22.0g/5m ,+2 tencel pre-drawings of 3 chitin pre-drawings+2 100% Long-staple cotton, roller is every being 7 × 15mm, and total draft multiple is 5.95;
Two and require to include: wet is quantitatively 22.0g/5m, and number of doubling is 6, and roller is every being 7 × 15mm, and total draft multiple is 6;
End also requires to include: wet is quantitatively 17.0g/5m, and number of doubling is 6, and roller is every being 7 × 15mm, and total draft multiple is 6.52;
Requiring to include of fly frame: quantitative 4.0g/10m done by rove, and the design twist is 3.66, and back zone drafting multiple is 1.11 times, Total draft multiple is 8.5 times, and roller gauge is 25 × 38mm;
Requiring to include of spinning frame: yarn twist factor is 380, the PG1 4254 of rings/guiding principle, wire loop is HY8/0, pressure bar Spacing block specification is 3.0mm, ratch 18 × 38mm;Spun yarn front roller rotating speed is 220r/min.
Described step 2) in,
Requiring to include of circular knitting machine: type is 30 inches of single-side machines, 28 pins, 90 tunnels;Fabric tissue is latitude plain stitch;Knit Faller gill row are that needle tray is booked knitting needle;Triangle arrangement is that each road is stitch cam;Requirement of entrying is requirement odd numbers for a kind of yarn, Even numbers is entried every one for another kind of yarn that is one, and every road all adds spandex thread;Craft yarn length is 29cm/100 pin;Grey cloth weight is 20kg/;Light base door width is 130cm;
Described step 3) in,
Requiring to include of dyeing pre-treatment: add softening agent FT and 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl salmiac cation in alkalescence body lotion Etherifying agent;
Requiring to include of dyeing: add 1/2 dyestuff → operating 15min after adding levelling agent → operating 10min → be warming up to 40 DEG C → add 1/2 80 DEG C → addition of dyestuff operating 20min → additions sodium chloride → be warming up to soda → operating 30min → 1 DEG C/min It is cooled in 40 DEG C → pickling and 15min;
Post processing is also carried out, it is desirable to including after dyeing:
Wash 15min → 2 time washing of soaping at 10min → neutralization washes → 90 DEG C, fixation treatment at each 10min → 40 DEG C 15min → 40 DEG C softening agent processes 15min → discharge opeing;
Described step 4) in,
Final finishing requires to include: cut open width → open width preshrunk loose-drying, and temperature is 110 DEG C, time a length of 2min → tentering setting, temperature Degree is 175 DEG C, time a length of 25m/min → cropping placement → inspection → finished product.
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CN111172644A (en) * 2019-11-28 2020-05-19 江苏悦达家纺有限公司 Production method of colorful ink jacquard fabric

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