CN105332155A - Preparation method of knitted wool-like warm fabric - Google Patents
Preparation method of knitted wool-like warm fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN105332155A CN105332155A CN201510696639.2A CN201510696639A CN105332155A CN 105332155 A CN105332155 A CN 105332155A CN 201510696639 A CN201510696639 A CN 201510696639A CN 105332155 A CN105332155 A CN 105332155A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
- D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
- D06P3/14—Wool
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a preparation method of a knitted wool-like warm fabric. The preparation method comprises the following steps: (1) raw material selection; (2) spinning technology implementation; (3) weaving technology implementation; (4) printing, dyeing and after-finishing. The knitted wool-like warm fabric is formed by performing the after-finishing, such as knitting, dyeing, carbon grinding and softening, on hemp/cotton/polypropylene fiber blended yarns and polyolefin elastic fibers, namely confirmable elastic fibers, which serve as raw materials. By the adoption of hemp, a product can realize antibacterial, health care and anti-ultraviolet functions; cotton fibers are high in hygroscopicity and spinnability; the polypropylene fibers are poor in heat conductance and high in heat insulation property; by the blending of the three types of fibers, a product has the functions of heat insulation, moisture absorption, breathing, bacteria prevention and ultraviolet resistance; by the weaving of the polyolefin elastic fibers, the product is extremely high in elasticity and conformality. The product is soft, fine, breathable, relaxing, high in heat retention property and suitable for making high-end warm coats or skirts, is a high-quality antibacterial, health care and warm fabric which has a wide market development prospect.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation method of fabric, specific design relates to a kind of preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric, belongs to weaving, functional textile technical field.
Background technology
Along with the arrival in winter, people are to the rush of demand of insulation garment product.Insulation garment major part on market or traditional product, as cotton jersey, woollen sweater, down jackets etc., thermal fabric has coral fleece, polar fleece, pearl suede, does not fall suede etc.Coral fleece is a kind of novel fabric, and because between fiber, density is higher, in coralliform, spreadability is good, just as the figure light and soft as coral that lives, colorful, therefore is referred to as coral fleece.Compared with other textiles, its advantage is obvious especially, comprises soft, fine and smooth, does not fall hair, easy dyeing etc.Polar fleece is little ingot knitted structure, large circle machine weaves and forms.Be made into rear grey cloth first dyed, then through plucking, carding, cropping, shake the Various Complex postfinishing process processing process such as grain, fabric front plucking, shake grain fluffy intensive and not easily fall hair, balling-up, reverse side plucking is dredged rare well-balanced, and fine hair is short of, and clear, fluffy elasticity spy is good for tissue texture.Pearl suede composition is 100% terylene; With soft, quality is fine and smooth, environmental protections etc. are feature, reach the specific function such as moistureproof, warming by special processing process, be mainly used in bed gown, steamer, children's garment, clothes inside, the materials of the aspect such as ornaments, handicraft, household decorations in shoes and hats, toy, car.The suede that do not fall is the type through compiling elastic force velvet, the similar material with upright pile of this pile fabric, and fabric sheen is fabulous, high resilience, soft, is the superior fabric making high fashion, fitted garment and adornment.Above-mentioned fabric, clothes are raw materials used is cotton, hair, chemical-fibres filaments etc., weaving process be mainly knitting or again through plucking, cut hair or napping etc., or make for shuttle-woven fabric adds warming wadding, product warmth retention property, comfortableness are all better, but generally do not have health care.Various countries have larger difference to the demand of thermal fabric clothes because of the weather difference of various countries, and cold local demand is larger.In the place of extreme cold, people need to keep out the cold with thick and heavy peltry clothes; In special environment, such as at space, people will wear air-conditioning space suit, and these all need the thermal fabric of fabulous difficult heat conduction to support.Therefore, a kind of new scheme of exigence solves this technical problem.
Summary of the invention
In order to solve above-mentioned Problems existing, the invention discloses a kind of preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric, this knitting simulate wool thermal fabric selects Chinese fiber crops/cotton/polypropylene fibre blended yarn and polyolefin elastic fiber i.e. easypro elater to be raw material, processes through Final finishing such as knitting and weaving, dyeing, carbon sanding, softnesses.Chinese fiber crops are selected to be antibiotic health care, anti-ultraviolet functions in order to obtain product, cotton fiber hygroscopicity, good spinnability, the difficult heat conduction of polypropylene fibre, warmth retention property are good, the mixing energy of three kinds of fibers make product have concurrently warming, moisture absorption ventilative, antibacterial uvioresistant function, add inweaving of polyolefin elastic fiber, make product have good elasticity and conformality.This product is soft fine and smooth, and ventilative pleasant, warmth retention property is strong, and being applicable to makeing high-grade warming coat or skirt, is a superior antibiotic health care thermal fabric, meet that people are warming to thermal fabric, function, comfortable, environmental protection requirement, there is wide market development prospect.
To achieve these goals, technical scheme of the present invention is as follows, and the preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric, is characterized in that, said method comprising the steps of: 1) raw material choice; 2) spinning process; 3) weaving process; 4) printing and dyeing and Final finishing.
The preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, described step 1) Raw apolegamy is specific as follows: select Chinese fiber crops protofibre, the china-hemp fibers of length 55mm, fineness 2500Nm, its overcut fibre rate is 9.13%, runner rate is 10.5%, and numb grain is 35/g, and regain is 9.02%; Polypropylene fiber selects 1.5D × 38mm; 137A Xinjiang Long staple cotton selected by long-staple cotton, and above three kinds of fibers mixture spinning " china-hemp fibers 25%, long-staple cotton and combed cotton 35%; polypropylene fiber 40%; 21 Tekes (28 English prop up) stocking yarn ", add the elater that relaxes when weaving, be specially 75D polypropylene elastic fiber.
As a modification of the present invention, described spinning process is specific as follows:
(1) Chinese fiber crops fibril, concrete technology is, blowing--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning--pre-drawing;
(2) long-staple cotton,--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning--pre-drawing--bar is also rolled up---combing that concrete technology is, blowing;
(3) polypropylene fiber: concrete technology is blowing--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning--pre-drawing;
Three kinds of fiber treatment techniques are as follows, slubbing drafting, and--two also, and--end is--rove--spun yarn also.
As a modification of the present invention, described spinning process is specific as follows: described blowing is exactly opening and cleaning step, is by the cotton shredding of compression, removal of impurities, makes lap after suitable combing.Carding step forms sliver and the carded sliver by after further for lap combing removal of impurities; Pre-drawing is by the many carded slivers and closes synthesize a sliver and pre-drawing after drawing-off; Bar also volume is that pre-drawing comingling is formed silver lap, to feed combing machine; Combing silver lap is carried out combing remove a large amount of short flannel, and and synthesize a yarn; Slubbing drafting, two also, end be that multiple fiber is mixed, and through repeatedly and make after closing drawing-off and can supply Roving Frames sliver used and ripe bar; Rove is that ripe bar draw twisting is become thinner rove bar; Spun yarn is by the finished product yarn designed by rove bar draw twisting one-tenth.
As a modification of the present invention, described spinning process is specific as follows: before spinning, need to carry out preliminary treatment to Chinese fiber crops protofibre, to improve its spinnability, preprocess method adds antistatic softening finish, and antistatic softening finish adds than being 5% of gross weight, with water by being sprayed onto on Chinese fiber crops fibril after 3:7 Homogeneous phase mixing, be put in workshop and leave standstill 4 days, need between storage period to turn over reason for several times, make the regain of Chinese fiber crops fibril more than 15%; Polypropylene fiber regain is almost nil, need add about 2% antistatic additive.
Chinese fiber crops protofibre is more containing numb grain, rigidity greatly and firmly more crisp, without natural crimp, fibre cohesion and Length Regularity poor, needed its preliminary treatment before spinning, china-hemp fibers is after health process, though spinnability increases, can't rolling slivering separately, rolling need be mixed with long-staple cotton in opening or cleaning operation by 1:1 mass ratio, slivering is mixed with combed long staple cotton again after carding machine cards, pre-and rear and polypropylene fibre pre-drawing is mixed and made into ripe bar by three roads, again through rove, spinning process is spun into " china-hemp fibers 25%, long-staple cotton and combed cotton 35%, polypropylene fiber 40%, 21 Tekes (28 English prop up) stocking yarn ".
The numb protofibre of the Chinese and a small amount of long-staple cotton mix in opening or cleaning operation, adopt the technique of " how pine beats less, receives to fall less more ", reduce the speed of hired roughneck, prevent fiber excessive damage; Technique that carding step adopts " big ration, low velocity, few noil ", increase cylinder and licker-in differential surface speed, with the ability that reinforcing fibre is shifted to cylinder by licker-in, reduce strength loss and loss of length that fiber is caused because of excessive combing, ensure the spinnability of fiber; The import of amplifying taker-in grid is spaced, and reduces noil; Again through pre-and after make quantitatively certain pre-drawing.Spin comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning clearly before the long wool of 137A Xinjiang and adopt the few technique of beating of many combs, reduce Beater Speed, reduce fibre damage; Reduce to space, strengthen point comb to remove impurity; Ensure certain linters rate (16%), remove short flannel and cotton knot.The independent slivering of polypropylene fiber, makes pre-drawing after blowing, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning.Chinese fiber crops pre-drawing, long-staple cotton yarn, polypropylene fibre pre-drawing mix by design proportion three road and make ripe bar.Mixed and operation adopts " in quantitatively, greatly space, reasonable tension drawing-off, fully and close, anti-tangle anti-blocking " technique.Rove adopts " heavily pressurize, space greatly, low velocity, in quantitatively, small tension receiving coil " technique, Moistrue Regian of Roving 6.8%; It is 19 × 22mm that finespun drawing-off is spaced, workshop temperature 30 DEG C, relative humidity 65%, with tincture of iodine process roller, prevents the sticky flower of roller, selects suitable spacing block and steel traveler, reduce the generation of telling thick phenomenon and broken end; Winder adopts the technique of " low velocity, subject matter insured matter, joint good, be shaped good ", and waxes, and reduces cotton knot, pastes volt filoplume, reduce broken end, ensure the stable of yarn quality.
As a modification of the present invention, described weaving process is specific as follows: weaving process flow process: raw material enters factory, and------winder--inspection of knitting-fabric--is put in storage for yarn steaming, dewing in inspection.
As a modification of the present invention, described printing and dyeing and rear finishing duplex process flow specific as follows: pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing process.
As a modification of the present invention, described pre-treatment process is specific as follows: (1) kiering, technology preparation:
----wetting running 10min--adds NaOH, and--running 10min--is warming up to 110 DEG C, and--insulation 60min--is cooled to 70 DEG C, and--discharge opeing--heat washes temperature 90 DEG C, and time 15min--washes 10min to enter cloth in technological process: add digesting agent, chelating agent, bleeding agent, softener;
(2) oxygen bleaching, technology preparation
Process flow flow process: add multiple-effect bleach activator, sodium carbonate, wetting softener--running 10min--be warming up to 60 DEG C--hydrogen peroxide--be warming up to 110 DEG C--insulation 60min--be cooled to 70 DEG C--over flow rinse 5min--discharge opeing--heat washes temperature 90 DEG C, time 15min--washes 10min;
(3) ferment treatment, technology preparation:
Technological process, adds bleeding agent, and------------insulation 10min--tapping--washes 10min to be warming up to 80 DEG C in insulation 60min--tapping to add enzyme to add glacial acetic acid to be warming up to 50 DEG C.
As a modification of the present invention, described dyeing is specific as follows: technology preparation: active carbon 0.083%, active red 0.01%, glauber salt 35g/L, sodium carbonate 15g/L,
Levelling agent 2g/L, chelating agent SX1g/L, bath raio 1:15.
As a modification of the present invention, described dye aftertreatment technology prescription:
Technological process: washing 10min--neutralization &washing--soap (90 DEG C, 15min)--washing (10min, 2 times)--color-fixing agent fixation (40 DEG C, 15min)--softener (40 DEG C, 15min)--discharge opeing.
Relative to prior art, advantage of the present invention is as follows, 1) this technical scheme exploitation knitting simulate wool thermal fabric Chinese fiber crops/cotton/polypropylene fibre blended yarn and polypropylene elastomer weave through knitted double-sided large circle machine, dyeing and Final finishing process, Chinese fiber crops are described as " kings in fiber crops ", Chinese fiber crops protofibre is a kind of natural bast fiber produced through special high-tech degumming tech process, it has following features: 1. antibiotic health care, Chinese fiber crops protofibre is hollow structure, containing a large amount of gaps and hole, and mutually intersect between hole, the adsorbable a large amount of oxygen of this microcellular structure, anaerobic bacteria is made to be difficult to existence, therefore there is the effect suppressing anaerobic bacteria.In addition, containing Determination of multiple metal elements in china-hemp fibers, aldehydes matter and derivative, organic acid and inorganic salts, can destroy the structure of thalline; 2. uvioresistant, the cross section of china-hemp fibers is irregular triangle, polygon or ellipse etc., lumen and profile differ, its molecular structure is many prismatics, loosely, have spiral, therefore china-hemp fibers has good dissipation role to sound wave, light wave, without the need to arranging the radiation that can stop strong ultraviolet light especially; 3. moisture absorbing and sweat releasing, china-hemp fibers genesis analysis many vertical lines and small holes, forms excellent capillary effect, therefore perspire good hygroscopicity; 4. antistatic; expose the general moisture content of aerial china-hemp fibers about 12%; feel is but unconsciously wet; therefore the electric discharge that static focus and friction can be avoided easily to cause and balling-up; but Chinese fiber crops bast contains higher pectin and lignin; degumming tech is most important, limits its large-scale development always.At present, military supplies research institute of the General Logistics Department successfully have developed mechanical degumming softening equipment, dodges sudden and violent process equipment, biological degumming, thermophilic digestion equipment.Liquid ammonia finishing equipment and fiber classification carding equipment and correlation technique, Youngor Group Co., Ltd has also captured ring spinning, warping, sizing and the correlation technique difficult problem such as to have weaved, and produces provide technical support for china-hemp fibers industrialization.But it is many that Chinese ramie yarn fabric has filoplume, the difficult problems such as prodding and itching feeling are had never effectively to break through.Polypropylene fibre makes raw material through the fiber be polymerized, melt spinning is obtained by propylene, and its physical property is as follows: 1. form, and the vertical face of polypropylene fibre is straight smooth, and cross section is rounded.
2. density, the maximum advantage of polypropylene fibre is that quality is light, and it is the kind that general chemical fiber Midst density is the lightest that its density is only 0.91g/cm3, so the higher area coverage that polypropylene fibre other fibers comparable of same weight obtain.3. the intensity of stretching property polypropylene fibre is high by force, and extend large, initial modulus is higher, excellent spring, so polypropylene fibre ABRASION RESISTANCE is good.In addition, the wet strong basis of polypropylene fibre originally equals dry strong, so it is the ideal material making fishing net, hawser; 4. hygroscopicity and dyeability light weight warmth retention property good; Moisture absorption hardly, but wicking capacity is very strong, and moisture absorbing and sweat releasing effect is obvious; The hygroscopicity of polypropylene fibre is very little, and the regain under general atmosphere condition is close to zero.But it has core sucting action, transmit steam by the capillary in fabric, but itself does not play any absorption.The dyeability of polypropylene fibre is poor, and chromatogram is incomplete, but can adopt the method for original liquid coloring to cover the shortage; 5. acid-fast alkali-proof polypropylene fibre has good chemical resistance, and except red fuming nitric acid (RFNA), outside dense caustic soda, polypropylene fibre is good to bronsted lowry acids and bases bronsted lowry resistance, so be suitable for use as filtering material and packaging material; 6. light resistance polypropylene fibre light resistance is poor, and heat endurance is also poor, easily aging, not resistance to flatiron.But by adding antiaging agent when spinning, its ageing resistace can be improved.In addition, the electrical insulating property of polypropylene fibre is good, but adds and easily produce electrostatic man-hour.Because the thermal conductivity factor of polypropylene fibre is less, warmth retention property is good; 7. intensity height polypropylene fibre elastic filament intensity is only second to polyamide fibre, but price only has 1/3 of polyamide fibre; Make fabric size to stablize, wearable elastic is also good, and chemical stability is good.But poor heat stability, not sun-resistant, be easy to aging tendering, in polypropylene fibre of being for this reason everlasting, add age resister.Polyolefin elastic fiber is a kind of new elastic fiber, and usage is similar to spandex, but has very unique performance: 1. stable chemical nature, the drift of resistance to strong acid, highly basic, chlorine, ultraviolet irradiation etc.; 2. setting temperature is low, and 120 ° of-130 ° of sizings can obtain stable fixed effect; 3. finished size is stablized: knitted cloth anyhow shrinkage can control within 1-2%; 4. fabric elasticity is comfortable stable, and wearer takes experience sense excellence; Polypropylene fiber has that quality is light, and warming rate is high, and does not drip during burning and spatter, the advantage such as can not cause that wearer scalds, and in the winter time cold-proof underwear market is widely used demand.But polypropylene fibre fusing point is low, just start to melt at about 130 degree, and the setting temperature of spandex is about 170-180 degree.Therefore, cannot add spandex in polypropylene fabric, this causes great limitation with regard to giving the taking of polypropylene fabric, and polypropylene fibre cold-proof underwear cannot be used widely for a long time.Polyolefin elastic fiber, 120 degree time, just can reach good fixed effect, be combined with polypropylene fibre, can improve total solution for cold-proof underwear.Polypropylene fibre+polyolefin elastic thermal fabric, will be novel on market, unique product, have market prospects widely, also can enrich profit for company brings.Polypropylene fiber fabric product advantage: 1. do not drip during burning and spatter, wearer can not be caused to scald; 2. same grammes per square metre, the warming rate of polypropylene fiber fabric is the highest; 3. same warming rate, polypropylene fiber fabric grammes per square metre is minimum; 4. washing shrinkage is low: shrinkage is within 1-2% anyhow; 5. ready-made clothes cost is low: same grammes per square metre, and polypropylene fiber fabric area is maximum; 2) this technical scheme adopts Chinese fiber crops/cotton/polypropylene fibre blended yarn and easypro elater knit fabric piece dyeing finishing technology, select Chinese fiber crops/cotton/polypropylene fibre blended yarn and easypro elater knit fabric rear finishing duplex technology, comprise the technology such as sanding, softness, finished product sizing, select rational pre-setting, kiering, dyestuff and dyeing, while ensureing dye-uptake, reduce powerful loss; 3) the knitting simulate wool thermal fabric of the method exploitation, soft plentiful, velvet is strong, warmth retention property is good, and there is the function of antibacterial and deodouring, adsorb peculiar smell, uvioresistant, hydroscopic fast-drying, be high, the functional strong health environment-friendly thermal fabric of a class, be applicable to makeing medium-to-high grade warming coat or skirt, dark liking by consumers in general, produce market has a extensive future.
Detailed description of the invention
In order to deepen, to understanding of the present invention and understanding, below in conjunction with detailed description of the invention, to illustrate the present invention further.
embodiment 1:
A preparation method for knitting simulate wool thermal fabric, said method comprising the steps of: 1) raw material choice; 60 〞 325g/m
2the relax two-sided rib-loop of elater and fabric width of Chinese fiber crops 25/JC35/ polypropylene fibre 4028S+75D is 60 inches, 325 grams every square metre, and yarn raw material is that Chinese fiber crops 25/JC35/ polypropylene fibre 4028S yarn and 75D relax elater, and fabric is organized as two-sided rib-loop;
Chinese fiber crops protofibre selects the china-hemp fibers of length 55mm, about fineness 2500Nm, and its overcut fibre rate is 9.13%, and runner rate is 10.5%, and numb grain is 35/g, and regain is 9.02%; Polypropylene fiber selects 1.5D × 38mm; 137A Xinjiang Long staple cotton selected by long-staple cotton, above three kinds of fibers mixture spinning Chinese fiber crops 25/JC35/ polypropylene fibre 4021tex (28S) stocking yarn, and easypro elater added when weaving is 75D polypropylene elastic fiber; Chinese fiber crops protofibre is thick and stiff, runner rate and overcut fibre rate higher, spinnability is poor, and blending rate should not be too high.China-hemp fibers is selected to be that polypropylene fiber thermal conductivity factor is little, and warmth retention property is good in order to make product obtain certain antibacterial, anti-ultraviolet function, be applicable to for doing thermal fabric, cotton fiber good hygroscopicity, comfortable nature, putting property is good, can make up the defect of china-hemp fibers spinnability difference.
2) spinning process; Described spinning process is specific as follows: (1) according to mass ratio, the Chinese fiber crops fibril: long-staple cotton 1:1: blowing--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning--pre-drawing; (2)--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning--pre-drawing--the bar is also rolled up---combing of long-staple cotton: blowing; (3) polypropylene fiber: blowing--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning--pre-drawing; Above-mentioned three kinds of fiber treatment techniques are as follows, and--two also, and--end is--rove--spun yarn also for slubbing drafting.
The numb protofibre of the Chinese and a small amount of long-staple cotton mix in opening or cleaning operation, adopt the technique of " how pine beats less, receives to fall less more ", reduce the speed of hired roughneck, prevent fiber excessive damage; Technique that carding step adopts " big ration, low velocity, few noil ", increase cylinder and licker-in differential surface speed, with the ability that reinforcing fibre is shifted to cylinder by licker-in, reduce strength loss and loss of length that fiber is caused because of excessive combing, ensure the spinnability of fiber; The import of amplifying taker-in grid is spaced, and reduces noil; Again through pre-and after make quantitatively certain pre-drawing.Spin comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning clearly before the long wool of 137A Xinjiang and adopt the few technique of beating of many combs, reduce Beater Speed, reduce fibre damage; Reduce to space, strengthen point comb to remove impurity; Ensure certain linters rate (16%), remove short flannel and cotton knot.The independent slivering of polypropylene fiber, makes pre-drawing after blowing, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning.Chinese fiber crops pre-drawing, long-staple cotton yarn, polypropylene fibre pre-drawing mix by design proportion three road and make ripe bar.Mixed and operation adopts " in quantitatively, greatly space, reasonable tension drawing-off, fully and close, anti-tangle anti-blocking " technique.Rove adopts " heavily pressurize, space greatly, low velocity, in quantitatively, small tension receiving coil " technique, Moistrue Regian of Roving 6.8%; It is 19 × 22mm that finespun drawing-off is spaced, workshop temperature 30 DEG C, relative humidity 65%, with tincture of iodine process roller, prevents the sticky flower of roller, selects suitable spacing block and steel traveler, reduce the generation of telling thick phenomenon and broken end; Winder adopts the technique of " low velocity, subject matter insured matter, joint good, be shaped good ", and waxes, and reduces cotton knot, pastes volt filoplume, reduce broken end, ensure the stable of yarn quality.
(1) 50% Chinese fiber crops protofibre and 50% long-staple cotton main technologic parameters:
Cotton cleaning process: rolled design wets quantitative 400g/m, kirschner beater speed 560r/min, comprehensive Beater Speed 720r/min, design fixed length 30m, the surely heavy 13.5kg of blowing rouleau.Carding step: cylinder-Flat Gauge 9 × 8 × 8 × 8 × 9 〃; Sliver exporting speed 70m/min; Weight of card sliver 32g/5m, pre-drawing operation: combined roots 6, regain 7.5%, wet quantitative 28g/5m.
(2) long-staple cotton main technologic parameters:
The comprehensive Beater Speed 780r/min of opening and cleaning step: A076E, 106 Beater Speed 480r/min, quantitative 350g/m, lap weighs surely: 15kg.Carding step: cylinder and Flat Gauge: 7*6*6*6*7 〃, cylinder speed: 345r/min, licker-in speed: 645r/min, sliver exporting speed: 60m/min, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning is quantitative: 16g/5m.Pre-drawing: combined roots: 5, moisture regain: 7%, weight in wet base: 21.5g/5m.Bar also rolls up technique: combined roots: 28; Silver lap spaces: 8 × 12mm; The speed of a motor vehicle: 105m/min; Regain: 7%; Weight in wet base 62g/m.Combing: speed: 255 pincers beat/min, regain: 6.8%, linters rate: 16%, weight in wet base is quantitative: 17g/5m, sliver exporting speed: 80m/min.
(3) polypropylene fiber main technologic parameters:
The comprehensive Beater Speed 750r/min of opening and cleaning step: A076E, 106 Beater Speed 450r/min, quantitative 300g/m, lap weighs surely: 9.5kg.Carding step: cylinder and Flat Gauge: 7*6*6*6*7 〃, cylinder speed: 360r/min, licker-in speed: 690r/min, sliver exporting speed: 60m/min, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning is quantitative: 20g/5m.Pre-drawing: combined roots: 8, quantitatively: 14g/5m.
(4) ribbon finally made of above-mentioned (1), (2), (3), Zai Jing tri-road mixing in doubling step mixes mutually.
Table 1 drawing process parameter
(5) rove main technologic parameters
Quantitative 4.8g/10m done by rove, and the twist 3.94 twists with the fingers/and 10 centimetres, back zone drafting multiple 1.28 times, total draft multiple 7.75 times, ingot speed 850r/min.
(6) spun yarn main technologic parameters
Ramie yarn twist 76 twists with the fingers/and 10 centimetres, rings PG14254, steel traveler udr6/0,3.0 press bar distance clips, ratch 19 × 22; Spun yarn front roller rotating speed 240 revs/min, total draft 22.8.
(7) winder main technologic parameters
Winder speed 800m/min, influence of winding tension circle weight 20g, Clearing Curve N230%, S150% × 1.5cm, L30% × 25cm.
Chinese fiber crops protofibre is more containing numb grain, rigidity greatly and firmly more crisp, without natural crimp, fibre cohesion and Length Regularity poor, needed its preliminary treatment before spinning, to improve its spinnability.Preliminary treatment processes Chinese fiber crops protofibre before namely spinning, concrete grammar adds antistatic softening finish, antistatic softening finish adds than being 5% of gross weight, with water by being sprayed onto on Chinese fiber crops fibril after 3:7 Homogeneous phase mixing, be put in workshop and leave standstill 4 days, need between storage period to turn over reason for several times, make the regain of Chinese fiber crops fibril more than 15%.Polypropylene fiber regain is almost nil, need add about 2% antistatic additive.China-hemp fibers is after health process, though spinnability increases, can't rolling slivering separately, rolling need be mixed in opening or cleaning operation with a small amount of long-staple cotton, slivering is mixed with combed long staple cotton again after carding machine cards, pre-and be mixed and made into ripe bar with polypropylene fibre pre-drawing by three roads afterwards, then be spun into the Chinese numb 25/JC35/ polypropylene fibre 4021tex(28S through rove, spinning process) blended yarn.The numb protofibre of the Chinese and a small amount of long-staple cotton mix in opening or cleaning operation, adopt the technique of " how pine beats less, receives to fall less more ", reduce the speed of hired roughneck, prevent fiber excessive damage; Technique that carding step adopts " big ration, low velocity, few noil ", increase cylinder and licker-in differential surface speed, with the ability that reinforcing fibre is shifted to cylinder by licker-in, reduce strength loss and loss of length that fiber is caused because of excessive combing, ensure the spinnability of fiber; The import of amplifying taker-in grid is spaced, and reduces noil; Again through pre-and after make quantitatively certain pre-drawing.Spin comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning clearly before the long wool of 137A Xinjiang and adopt the few technique of beating of many combs, reduce Beater Speed, reduce fibre damage; Reduce to space, strengthen point comb to remove impurity; Ensure certain linters rate (16%), remove short flannel and cotton knot.The independent slivering of polypropylene fiber, makes pre-drawing after blowing, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning.Chinese fiber crops pre-drawing, long-staple cotton yarn, polypropylene fibre pre-drawing mix by design proportion three road and make ripe bar.Mixed and operation adopts " in quantitatively, greatly space, reasonable tension drawing-off, fully and close, anti-tangle anti-blocking " technique.Rove adopts " heavily pressurize, space greatly, low velocity, in quantitatively, small tension receiving coil " technique, Moistrue Regian of Roving 6.8%; It is 19 × 22mm that finespun drawing-off is spaced, workshop temperature 30 DEG C, relative humidity 65%, with tincture of iodine process roller, prevents the sticky flower of roller, selects suitable spacing block and steel traveler, reduce the generation of telling thick phenomenon and broken end; Winder adopts the technique of " low velocity, subject matter insured matter, joint good, be shaped good ", and waxes, and reduces cotton knot, pastes volt filoplume, reduce broken end, ensure the stable of yarn quality.
3) weaving process; Weaving process flow process: raw material enters factory--inspection--yarn steaming dewing, yarn steaming dewing be exactly yarn is placed in vaporium steam 8 hours to improve the water capacity of yarn--winder--inspection of knitting-fabric--warehouse-in.
Fabric tissue: two-sided rib-loop (interlock fabric).
Weave knitting technology: 34 inches, 24 pins, two-sided large circle machine;
Yarn count: Chinese fiber crops 25/JC35/ polypropylene fibre 4028S+75D relaxes elater;
Yarn is long: 50 pins are 16.5CM, and one adds 70D every one relaxes elater;
Weight: 20kg/, stays drawn needle to cut open width line.
Fabric requires: 1, fabric requires to accomplish that cloth cover is smooth, without horizontal stripe, without vertical bar, fabric defect is within the scope of internal control; 2, the easypro elater in fabric will accomplish three nothings.That is: silk is run, without jumping silk without fracture of wire, nothing; 3, good springiness wanted by fabric, and feel is soft, and velvet is strong.Before circular knitting machine uses, each parts of first inspection machine whether to have defect, it is loosening whether cooperation has, and whether the accuracy of critical piece controls in prescribed limit, and whether rounding is concordant for syringe and the knitting needle on dials, and whether machine is steady.Carry out after measures to rectify and reform put in place weaving debugging, wear blended yarn and easypro elater according to technological requirement, ensure that yarn grows to position.
Before Chinese fiber crops/cotton/polypropylene fibre blended yarn cylinder yarn is got on the bus and carried out knitting and weaving, through yarn steaming, dewing, Chinese fiber crops fibril modulus need be reduced, strengthens pliability and the brute force of yarn.During looming weaving, adopt the less speed of a motor vehicle, the position of metering needle nozzle, the distance that upper and lower needle position staggers, the depth of pressing, yarn tension, the length of the elater that relaxes and face tension, solve the problem that Yarn break is more, cloth cover has broken hole, solve and run silk, jump silk fault, ensure fabric quality.In addition, need to weave ride ambient humidity and be adjusted to more than 60%, one is the flyings that the primary staple fibre of minimizing Chinese fiber crops departs from generation in weaving process from yarn, prevents its blocking knitting needle, impact braiding; Two is the speed reducing moisture loss in Chinese fiber crops/cotton/polypropylene fibre blended yarn, makes the modulus of the fiber crops of the Chinese in yarn protofibre be applicable to requirements of weaving process, ensures normally carrying out of production.
4) printing and dyeing and Final finishing, comprise pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing process, normal temperature dyeing during dyeing adopts, the lower speed of a motor vehicle.Technique mainly comprises pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing process, is specially kiering, oxygen bleaching, dyeing, washing, dehydration, the oven dry of loose formula, soft sizing, carbon sanding, stentering forming and shrinking processes.
(1) pre-treatment process
(1) kiering
Technology preparation:
Technological process
Add digesting agent, chelating agent, bleeding agent, softener--enter cloth--wetting running 10min--adds NaOH--running 10min--is warming up to 110 DEG C--insulation 60min--be cooled to 70 DEG C--discharge opeing--heat is washed (90 DEG C, 15min)--washing 10min
(2) oxygen bleaching
Technology preparation
Technological process: add multiple-effect bleach activator, sodium carbonate, wetting softener--running 10min--be warming up to 60 DEG C--hydrogen peroxide--be warming up to 110 DEG C--insulation 60min--be cooled to 70 DEG C--over flow rinse 5min--discharge opeing--heat washes temperature 90 DEG C, time 15min--washes 10min
(3) ferment treatment
Technology preparation
Technological process
------------insulation 10min--tapping--washes 10min to be warming up to 80 DEG C in insulation 60min--tapping to add enzyme to add glacial acetic acid to be warming up to 50 DEG C to add bleeding agent.
(2) dyeing
Technology preparation
(3) post processing is contaminated
Technology preparation
Technological process
--soap (90 DEG C, 15min)--washing (10min, 2 times)--color-fixing agent fixation (40 DEG C, 15min)--softener (40 DEG C, the 15min)--discharge opeing of washing 10min--neutralization &washing.
(4) setting process is arranged
----the pre-shrinkage porosite formula of--padding special sex change silicone oil--open width is dried to cut open width in dehydration in technological process: washing, temperature is 110 DEG C, time is 2min, and--soft setting temperature is the sanding of 118 DEG C-carbon--drying room boarding machine tentering formalizes, temperature is 118 DEG C-preshrunk--cropping placement--inspection--finished product.
Normal temperature dyeing during dyeing adopts, the lower speed of a motor vehicle.Technique mainly comprises pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing process, is specially kiering, oxygen bleaching, dyeing, washing, dehydration, the oven dry of loose formula, soft sizing, carbon sanding, stentering forming and shrinking processes.
Constituent due to this knit fabric is cellulose fibre, and polypropylene fiber non-refractory, therefore normal temperature REACTIVE DYES one-bath dyeing in adopting, suitably increase the consumption of glauber salt in dyeing course, the dye-uptake of this knitted fabric can be improved; Adopt cellulase process and soft finish, the prodding and itching feeling of flax fabric can be alleviated, strengthen comfort property; Adopt carbon sanding finishing, form the very short and fine hair of softness at fabric face, make fabric have certain bony, sense of hanging down, voluptuousness, strengthens fabric velvet, flexibility and warmth retention property; Sizing makes fabric dimensionally stable, has minimum washing shrinkage, because polypropylene fibre fusing point is low, strictly should control setting temperature, prevent polypropylene fibre from melting.
It should be noted that above-described embodiment is only preferred embodiment of the present invention, be not used for limit protection scope of the present invention, the equivalent replacement that the basis of technique scheme is made or substitute all belong to protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. a preparation method for knitting simulate wool thermal fabric, is characterized in that, said method comprising the steps of: 1) raw material choice; 2) spinning process; 3) weaving process; 4) printing and dyeing and Final finishing.
2. the preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, described step 1) Raw apolegamy is specific as follows: select Chinese fiber crops protofibre, the china-hemp fibers of length 55mm, fineness 2500Nm, its overcut fibre rate is 9.13%, runner rate is 10.5%, and numb grain is 35/g, and regain is 9.02%; Polypropylene fiber selects 1.5D × 38mm; 137A long-staple cotton selected by long-staple cotton, and above three kinds of fibers mixture spinning " china-hemp fibers 25%, long-staple cotton and combed cotton 35%; polypropylene fiber 40%; 21 Tekes (28 English prop up) stocking yarn ", add the elater that relaxes when weaving, be specially 75D polypropylene elastic fiber.
3. the preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric according to claim 2, it is characterized in that, described spinning process is specific as follows:
(1) Chinese fiber crops fibril, concrete technology is, blowing--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning--pre-drawing;
(2) long-staple cotton,--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning--pre-drawing--bar is also rolled up---combing that concrete technology is, blowing;
(3) polypropylene fiber: concrete technology is blowing--comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning--pre-drawing;
Three kinds of fiber treatment techniques are as follows, slubbing drafting, and--two also, and--end is--rove--spun yarn also.
4. the preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric according to claim 3, it is characterized in that, described spinning process is specific as follows: described blowing is exactly opening and cleaning step, is by the cotton shredding of compression, removal of impurities, makes lap after suitable combing; Carding step forms sliver and the carded sliver by after further for lap combing removal of impurities; Pre-drawing is by the many carded slivers and closes synthesize a sliver and pre-drawing after drawing-off; Bar also volume is that pre-drawing comingling is formed silver lap, to feed combing machine; Combing silver lap is carried out combing remove a large amount of short flannel, and and synthesize a yarn; Slubbing drafting, two also, end be that multiple fiber is mixed, and through repeatedly and make after closing drawing-off and can supply Roving Frames sliver used and ripe bar; Rove is that ripe bar draw twisting is become thinner rove bar; Spun yarn is by the finished product yarn designed by rove bar draw twisting one-tenth.
5. the preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric according to claim 3, it is characterized in that, described spinning process is specific as follows: before spinning, need to carry out preliminary treatment to Chinese fiber crops protofibre, to improve its spinnability, preprocess method adds antistatic softening finish, antistatic softening finish adds than being 5% of gross weight, with water by being sprayed onto on Chinese fiber crops fibril after 3:7 Homogeneous phase mixing, be put in workshop and leave standstill 4 days, need between storage period to turn over reason for several times, make the regain of Chinese fiber crops fibril more than 15%; Polypropylene fiber regain is almost nil, need add about 2% antistatic additive; China-hemp fibers is after health process, though spinnability increases, can't rolling slivering separately, need mix rolling with few suede cotton in opening or cleaning operation by 1:1 mass ratio, after carding machine cards, mix slivering with combed long staple cotton again, in advance and afterwards and polypropylene fibre pre-drawing be mixed and made into ripe bar by three roads, be spun into " china-hemp fibers 25%; combed cotton 35%, polypropylene fiber 40%, 21 Tekes (28 English prop up) stocking yarn " through rove, spinning process again.
6. the preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric according to claim 2, it is characterized in that, described weaving process is specific as follows: weaving process flow process: raw material enters factory, and------winder--inspection of knitting-fabric--is put in storage for yarn steaming, dewing in inspection.
7. the preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric according to claim 2, is characterized in that, described printing and dyeing and rear finishing duplex process flow specific as follows: pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing process.
8. the preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric according to claim 5, it is characterized in that, described pre-treatment process is specific as follows: (1) kiering, technology preparation:
----wetting running 10min--adds NaOH, and--running 10min--is warming up to 110 DEG C, and--insulation 60min--is cooled to 70 DEG C, and--discharge opeing--heat washes temperature 90 DEG C, and time 15min--washes 10min to enter cloth in technological process: add digesting agent, chelating agent, bleeding agent, softener;
Oxygen bleaching, technology preparation
Process flow flow process: add multiple-effect bleach activator, sodium carbonate, wetting softener--running 10min--be warming up to 60 DEG C--hydrogen peroxide--be warming up to 110 DEG C--insulation 60min--be cooled to 70 DEG C--over flow rinse 5min--discharge opeing--heat washes temperature 90 DEG C, time 15min--washes 10min;
Ferment treatment, technology preparation:
Technological process, adds bleeding agent, and------------insulation 10min--tapping--washes 10min to be warming up to 80 DEG C in insulation 60min--tapping to add enzyme to add glacial acetic acid to be warming up to 50 DEG C.
9. the preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric according to claim 5, it is characterized in that, described dyeing is specific as follows: technology preparation: active carbon 0.083%, active red 0.01%, glauber salt 35g/L, sodium carbonate 15g/L,
Levelling agent 2g/L, chelating agent SX1g/L, bath raio 1:15.
10. the preparation method of knitting simulate wool thermal fabric according to claim 5, is characterized in that, described dye aftertreatment technology prescription:
Technological process: washing 10min--neutralization &washing--soap (90 DEG C, 15min)--washing (10min, 2 times)--color-fixing agent fixation (40 DEG C, 15min)--softener (40 DEG C, 15min)--discharge opeing.
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| PCT/CN2016/083509 WO2017071198A1 (en) | 2015-10-26 | 2016-05-26 | Method for preparing knitted wool-like warm fabric |
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Application publication date: 20160217 |