CN109662938B

CN109662938B - Plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor and preparation method and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN109662938B
Application number: CN201910114524.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 孙一心
Original assignee: Chongqing City Zhousa Technology Development Co ltd
Current assignee: Chongqing City Zhousa Technology Development Co ltd
Priority date: 2019-02-14
Filing date: 2019-02-14
Publication date: 2022-02-01
Anticipated expiration: 2039-02-14
Also published as: CN109662938A

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to a plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor and a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the polysaccharide moisturizing factor comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2-3% of tremella polysaccharide, 2-3% of trehalose, 2-3% of fructan, 11-2% of biogum carbohydrate gum, 1-2% of oat bran extract, 1-2% of wolfberry fruit extract, 1-2% of honey extract, 0.5-0.8% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of double distilled water. The polysaccharide moisturizing factor can be applied to freckle-removing, whitening, wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, sun-screening, moisturizing and repairing cosmetics or facial mask products. The polysaccharide moisturizing factor has excellent functions of intelligently moisturizing and maintaining the physiological activity of skin and regulating the moisture content of the skin, and also has strong repairing, immunizing and slow-release functions.

Description

Plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor and preparation method and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to a plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor and a preparation method and application thereof.

Background

The development of the modern times and the innovation and progress of the technology lead the cosmetic industry to develop rapidly, meanwhile, the requirements of people on the cosmetic products are continuously improved, and the cosmetic products with various functions, dosage forms and unique appearances attract the eyes of consumption. The cosmetic is a product which is applied to any part of the human body surface (such as skin, nail, lip, oral cavity, etc.) by smearing, spraying or other similar methods, so as to achieve the purposes of cleaning, eliminating bad smell, caring skin, beautifying and decorating, etc. When the air temperature is reduced, the skin cuticle can not timely regulate enough moisturizing factors, the activity of the oil glands is reduced, the oil and water on the face are reduced, the skin can be tightened, and fine wrinkles are even formed below the eyes and around the nose. The skin contains 18-20% of water in the whole body, the water in the skin is mainly concentrated in the dermis, and under the normal condition, the water content of the stratum corneum of women accounts for more than about 20% of the water content of the skin, and the rest is in the dermis. The moisture content of the stratum corneum is determined by skin feel, luster and the like, but the moisture content of the dermis is a reliable source for providing the moisture content of the stratum corneum, and the stratum corneum is close to and inseparable. When the water content of the stratum corneum is low, the dry skin can be transformed. Dry skin has a series of problems such as rough skin, more dandruff, thin horny layer, weak skin allergy resistance, more fine lines and the like.

The stratum corneum is composed of non-living keratin cells. Keratin cells are 30 microns wide and 0.8 microns thick, are hexagonal in shape, are closely connected, are stacked and staggered, and have about 10-20 layers constituting the stratum corneum and a thickness of about 10-15 microns. The keratin intercellular space is about 0.02-0.2 microns and is filled with lipid substances of lamellar structure. The amount of water bound to the membrane, cell contents and intercellular matrix of the keratin cells in the stratum corneum determines the softness of the skin. The following three substances play an important role in maintaining skin elasticity: firstly, water; the second is water-soluble substances for retaining water in the skin (among which lactate and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid-PCA play a key role), called NMF, which is a natural moisturizing factor, and the molecular structure of the substances contains hydroxyl groups capable of holding water molecules like hands, thereby keeping the water molecules in the stratum corneum; the third is the lipids in the skin, which cover the skin surface thinly, prevent water evaporation, prevent water molecules from escaping into the surrounding environment, and also affect skin moisturization by affecting the adhesion of stratum corneum cells.

With the development of the beauty cosmetics industry, natural plant products are welcomed due to the advantages of safe use, mild action, obvious effect and the like. The plant extract containing effective components is obtained by corresponding processing, and is added into cosmetics. In addition, the moisture-retaining cosmetics also need to achieve the function of rapidly moisturizing the skin and unique fresh and moist skin feel. At present, in order to increase the moisturizing function of the cosmetics, a large amount of moisture absorbents such as hyaluronic acids and biological fermentation polysaccharides are added to the products on the market, however, if the usage amount is too large, the skin feel is greasy and not fresh, and if the usage amount is low, the moisturizing effect is not obvious, and the moisturizing effect is almost different from that of common purified water. Moreover, the current moisturizing cosmetics on the market are very easy to cause phenomena of allergy, easy mildew and deterioration, poor stability and the like. Therefore, it is an urgent problem to select which plant to safely apply to cosmetics to achieve better moisturizing effect.

Disclosure of Invention

In view of the above, the present invention aims to provide a plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor, a preparation method and an application thereof, wherein the moisturizing factor has an excellent function of intelligently moisturizing and maintaining the physiological activity of skin, regulating the moisture content of skin, and has strong repairing, immunizing and slow-release functions.

The invention solves the technical problems by the following technical means:

a plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor comprises Tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, fructan, biological carbohydrate gum-1, oat bran extract, fructus Lycii extract, Mel extract, and phenoxyethanol.

Further, the moisturizing factor comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2-3% of tremella polysaccharide, 2-3% of trehalose, 2-3% of fructan, 11-2% of biogum carbohydrate gum, 1-2% of oat bran extract, 1-2% of wolfberry fruit extract, 1-2% of honey extract, 0.5-0.8% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of double distilled water.

Further, the moisturizing factor comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2.5% of tremella polysaccharide, 2.5% of trehalose, 2.5% of fructan, 12% of biogum carbohydrate gum, 1% of oat bran extract, 2% of boxthorn fruit extract, 2% of honey extract, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of double distilled water.

Further, the mass ratio of the tremella polysaccharide to the trehalose to the levan is 1:1: 1.

Further, the lycium barbarum fruit extract is prepared as follows: micronizing dried fructus Lycii to 800-1000 mesh, separating at 45-50 deg.C under 6-8 MPa and CO under 5-7 MPa₂Supercritical CO is carried out under the condition of the flow rate of 16L/h₂Extracting to obtain extractive solution, i.e. fructus Lycii extract.

In addition, the invention also discloses a preparation method of the moisturizing factor, which comprises the following steps: mixing oat bran extract, fructus Lycii extract and Mel extract, performing microwave oscillation at normal temperature, adding Tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, levan and biological carbohydrate gum-1, stirring at 150rpm for 20min, adding phenoxyethanol and double distilled water, and stirring to obtain moisturizing factor.

Further, the microwave oscillation and uniform mixing is specifically oscillation for 1min under 200W and 350MHz, oscillation for 1min under 200W and 500MHz, and oscillation for 2min under 150W and 350 MHz.

In addition, the invention also discloses application of the moisturizing factor, and the moisturizing factor can be applied to freckle-removing, whitening, wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, sun-screening, moisturizing and repairing cosmetics or facial mask products.

Furthermore, the dosage of the moisturizing factor in the cosmetics or facial mask products for removing freckles, whitening, removing wrinkles, resisting aging, preventing sunburn and moisturizing and repairing is 1-8%.

The moisturizing factor of the invention is prepared from natural active compound polysaccharide components obtained from natural plant raw materials such as tremella, medlar, oat, honey and the like by using modern biotechnology, is also compounded with trehalose with biological 'fresh-keeping' function, has tenacious life due to desert plants, and contains abundant trehalose and natural moisturizing factors such as biological carbohydrate gum contained in fucoidin, and has more extensive and lasting bioactive components and excellent moisturizing effect compared with common single polysaccharide. In addition, the moisturizing agent has excellent intelligent moisturizing function for regulating the moisture content of the skin, biological fresh-keeping function for maintaining the physiological activity of the skin, and also has strong repairing, immunizing and slow-release functions.

The moisturizing factor can promote the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells, so that the water environment of the damaged part of the skin is kept stable, the regeneration of the skin of the damaged part is facilitated, and the moisturizing factor is very suitable for moisturizing and repairing the skin after freckle removing and skin changing and repairing the skin after being exposed to the sun; can also induce maturation of dendritic cells with immunity, promote production of cytokine such as interleukin by dendritic cells, and enhance immunity of macrophage. The intercellular substance function, hydration function and slight capillary vessel dilating function of the composite bioactive skin-care polysaccharide are beneficial to the transdermal absorption of various nutrient components and physiological active components, and meanwhile, the network structure and the large ion function of macromolecules thereof have very good slow release function. And the small molecular trehalose, biological carbohydrate gum and the like can prevent the skin from seriously losing water. The moisturizing factor is also an indispensable functional raw material for preparing various kinds of retention products, such as facial masks, night creams, and various skin care products for moisturizing, sun protection, whitening, repairing and the like.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the effect of cell renewal after the use of the polysaccharide moisturizing factor of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the effect of polysaccharide moisturizing factors of the present invention on the expression of messenger RNA, which is a coat protein and a pre-filament protein.

Detailed Description

The invention will be described in detail below with reference to the following figures and specific examples:

the invention relates to a plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2-3% of tremella polysaccharide, 2-3% of trehalose, 2-3% of fructan, 11-2% of biogum carbohydrate gum, 1-2% of oat bran extract, 1-2% of wolfberry fruit extract, 1-2% of honey extract, 0.5-0.8% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of double distilled water. Wherein the mass ratio of the tremella polysaccharide to the trehalose to the levan is 1:1: 1.

The medlar fruit extract used in the invention adopts supercritical CO₂The extraction method is characterized by micronizing dried fructus Lycii to 800-1000 mesh, and separating at 45-50 deg.C under 6-8 MPa and 5-7 MPa under CO₂Supercritical CO is carried out under the condition of the flow rate of 16L/h₂Extracting to obtain extractive solution, i.e. fructus Lycii extract.

The moisturizing factor can be applied to freckle-removing, whitening, wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, sun-screening, moisturizing and repairing cosmetics or facial mask products, and the dosage is 1-8%.

Example one

The Lycium chinense Miller extract used in this example was supercriticalCO₂Extracting with extraction method, specifically micronizing dried fructus Lycii to 1000 mesh, and separating at 45-50 deg.C under 7MPa and 6MPa with CO₂Supercritical CO is carried out under the condition of the flow rate of 16L/h₂Extracting to obtain extractive solution, i.e. fructus Lycii extract.

The moisturizing factor of the embodiment comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2% of tremella polysaccharide, 2% of trehalose, 2% of fructan, 12% of biological carbohydrate gum, 2% of oat bran extract, 1% of wolfberry fruit extract, 1% of honey extract, 0.8% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of double distilled water. The preparation method comprises the following steps:

weighing the raw materials according to the mass percentage, taking oat bran extract, wolfberry fruit extract and honey extract, mixing uniformly, carrying out microwave oscillation for 1min under the conditions of 200W and 350MHz at normal temperature, carrying out microwave oscillation for 1min under the conditions of 200W and 500MHz, carrying out microwave oscillation for 2min under the conditions of 150W and 350MHz, then adding tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, levan and bioglycan-1, stirring for 20min at the rotating speed of 150rpm, adding phenoxyethanol and double distilled water, and stirring uniformly to obtain the moisturizing factor.

Example two

The Lycium chinense Miller extract used in this example was supercritical CO₂Extracting with extraction method, specifically micronizing dried fructus Lycii to 900 mesh, separating at 45-50 deg.C under 6MPa and 5MPa under CO₂Supercritical CO is carried out under the condition of the flow rate of 16L/h₂Extracting to obtain extractive solution, i.e. fructus Lycii extract.

The moisturizing factor of the embodiment comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 3% of tremella polysaccharide, 3% of trehalose, 2.5% of fructan, 13% of biogenic carbohydrate gum, 1.5% of oat bran extract, 1.5% of wolfberry fruit extract, 1.5% of honey extract, 0.6% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of double distilled water. The preparation method comprises the following steps:

EXAMPLE III

The Lycium chinense Miller extract used in this example was supercritical CO₂The extraction method comprises micronizing dried fructus Lycii to 800 mesh, and separating at 45-50 deg.C under 8MPa and 7MPa with CO₂Supercritical CO is carried out under the condition of the flow rate of 16L/h₂Extracting to obtain extractive solution, i.e. fructus Lycii extract.

The moisturizing factor of the embodiment comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2.5% of tremella polysaccharide, 2.5% of trehalose, 2.5% of fructan, 12% of biogum carbohydrate gum, 2% of oat bran extract, 1% of boxthorn fruit extract, 2% of honey extract, 0.7% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of double distilled water. The preparation method comprises the following steps:

Example four

The preparation of the lycium barbarum fruit extract used in this example was the same as that of example 1.

The moisturizing factor of the embodiment comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2.5% of tremella polysaccharide, 2.5% of trehalose, 2.5% of fructan, 12% of biogum carbohydrate gum, 1% of oat bran extract, 2% of boxthorn fruit extract, 2% of honey extract, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of double distilled water. The preparation method comprises the following steps:

And (4) relevant testing:

1. promoting stratum corneum turnover

The purpose of the study was to determine the effect of polysaccharide moisturizing factor on cell renewal. After 15 male volunteer test subjects continuously patted their back skin with an aqueous solution containing the moisturizing factor of example four, SCCE (stratum corneum chymotrypsin) and epidermal transudate water loss (TEWL) were measured, as shown in fig. 1. The results show that: analysis of the stratum corneum sampling shows that 5% polysaccharide moisturizing factor can significantly improve the SCCE content by 82% compared with the blank product, and measurement of epidermal moisture loss shows that 5% polysaccharide moisturizing factor significantly reduces epidermal moisture loss by 4% compared with the blank product.

2. Influence on epidermal water loss

The in vivo study of 18 female volunteer testers was conducted to show the effect of polysaccharide moisturizing factor on barrier function enhancement by detecting epidermal water loss. The air pressure gradient of the water vapor layer surrounding the skin was measured using a keratometer. After repeated rinsing with 10% sodium lauryl sulfate and continuous stimulation of the stratum corneum, the emulsion product containing 5% of the polysaccharide moisturizing factor prepared in example four was used twice a day, and after two weeks, the loss of epidermal water through the skin was significantly reduced to 17% compared to the blank product.

3. Promoting cell differentiation

Synthesis of involucrin and silk protein-in vitro research aiming at determining the influence of polysaccharide moisturizing factors on the expression of involucrin and silk protein messenger RNA (mRNA) participating in the differentiation process, as shown in figure 2, testing 5% of polysaccharide moisturizing factors in human keratinocytes can improve the expression of involucrin and silk protein messenger RNA by 21% and 47%, respectively.

Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims. The techniques, shapes, and configurations not described in detail in the present invention are all known techniques.

Claims

1. The plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor is characterized by being prepared from the following components in percentage by mass: 2-3% of tremella polysaccharide, 2-3% of trehalose, 2-3% of fructan, 11-2% of biogum carbohydrate gum, 1-2% of oat bran extract, 1-2% of wolfberry fruit extract, 1-2% of honey extract, 0.5-0.8% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of double distilled water; the mass ratio of the tremella polysaccharide to the trehalose to the fructan is 1:1: 1.

2. The plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor of claim 1, wherein the moisturizing factor comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2.5% of tremella polysaccharide, 2.5% of trehalose, 2.5% of fructan, 12% of biogum carbohydrate gum, 1% of oat bran extract, 2% of boxthorn fruit extract, 2% of honey extract, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of double distilled water.

3. The plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor of claim 2, wherein the wolfberry fruit extract is prepared by: micronizing dried fructus Lycii to 800-1000 mesh, separating at 45-50 deg.C under 6-8 MPa and CO under 5-7 MPa₂Supercritical CO is carried out under the condition of the flow rate of 16L/h₂Extracting to obtain extractive solution, i.e. fructus Lycii extract.

4. The method for preparing the plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the method comprises the following steps: mixing oat bran extract, fructus Lycii extract and Mel extract, performing microwave oscillation at normal temperature, adding Tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, levan and biological carbohydrate gum-1, stirring at 150rpm for 20min, adding phenoxyethanol and double distilled water, and stirring to obtain moisturizing factor.

5. The method for preparing the plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor according to claim 4, wherein the microwave oscillation mixing is specifically 1min under 200W and 350MHz, 1min under 200W and 500MHz, and 2min under 150W and 350 MHz.

6. The application of the plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the moisturizing factor is applied to the preparation of freckle-removing, whitening, wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, sun-screening, moisturizing and repairing cosmetics or facial mask products.

7. The application of the plant polysaccharide moisturizing factor as claimed in claim 6, wherein the amount of the moisturizing factor in preparing cosmetics or facial mask products for removing freckles, whitening, removing wrinkles, resisting aging, preventing sunburn, moisturizing and repairing is 1-8%.