CN109235076A - 一种羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺 - Google Patents

一种羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺 Download PDF

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CN109235076A
CN109235076A CN201810982216.0A CN201810982216A CN109235076A CN 109235076 A CN109235076 A CN 109235076A CN 201810982216 A CN201810982216 A CN 201810982216A CN 109235076 A CN109235076 A CN 109235076A
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fleece fabrics
natural dye
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华玉龙
王榴兴
许宏
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Jiangsu Sunshine Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺,包括天然色素的提取、染液配置、染色和清洗四步骤,该羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺采用梧桐树叶作为天然染料来源,利用超声浸泡煮提取染料,通过同浴媒染色法,所得面料耐皂洗色牢度能保持在4级以上,但耐干摩擦色牢度为3级;加入蛋白质衍生物可对羊绒纤维形成保护作用,减弱羊绒高温下的损伤。

Description

一种羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及染色技术领域,具体涉及一种羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺。
背景技术
羊绒是一根根细而弯曲的纤维,其中含有很多的空气,并形成空气层,可以防御外来冷空气的侵袭,保留体温不会减低。山羊绒由鳞片层和皮质层组成,直径通常在13~16μm,无髓质层,鳞片密度较羊毛大,但羊绒鳞片的可见高度低于细羊毛,鳞片相互紧密覆盖在毛干上,并且鳞片层中少量类脂物的存在,也使羊绒具有一定的拒水性, 使得在染料难以渗透到纤维内部。
天然染料具有无毒、生态、色泽柔和、自然有特色,以及良好的环境兼容性和药物保健性等人工合成染料不可比拟的优点,因此天然染料在羊绒染色的应用研究也日趋增多。板栗壳、梧桐叶均可作为天然染料的来源,但羊绒采用梧桐叶中的天然染料染色未见报道。
发明内容
本发明的目的之一在于克服现有技术中存在的缺陷,提供一种羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺,所得羊绒织物具有良好的色牢度。
为实现上述目的,本发明的技术方案为:一种羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
S1:天然色素的提取,将梧桐叶粉碎置于水中,加热80~85℃超声条件下浸泡煮1~1.5h,冷却室温静置 20~30 min 后过滤,得滤液稀释滤液;
S2:向S1所得稀释滤液中加入渗透剂、匀染剂、明矾,混合均匀,得含天然染料的染液,染液中渗透剂中重量百分比为0.5~1.5%,匀染剂的重量百分比为2~3%,明矾的重量百分比为5~6%;
S3:将羊绒织物置于染液中,浴比1:(20~30),缓慢升温至95℃保温反应50~80min,降温至70~80℃,加入1,6-己二醇,保温反应40~60min,取出羊绒织物;
S4:清水清洗羊绒织物,干燥。
优选的技术方案为,渗透剂为选自脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸酯盐和烷基磷酸酯盐中的一种或两种以上的组合。
优选的技术方案为,S3中的缓慢升温速率是1.5~2℃/min。
优选的技术方案为,匀染剂为选自十二烷基二甲基苄基氯化铵、十八烷基二甲基苄基氯化铵、磺化油和高级醇硫酸酯钠盐中的一种或两种以上的组合。
优选的技术方案为,S1中超声频率为35~40kHz。
优选的技术方案为,染液中还含有0.1~0.5%的蛋白质衍生物,蛋白质衍生物为脂蛋白和/或糖蛋白。
本发明的优点和有益效果在于:
该羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺采用梧桐树叶作为天然染料来源,利用超声浸泡煮提取染料,通过同浴媒染色法,所得面料耐皂洗色牢度能保持在 4 级以上,但耐干摩擦色牢度为3级;
加入蛋白质衍生物可对羊绒纤维形成保护作用,减弱羊绒高温下的损伤。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例,对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步描述。以下实施例仅用于更加清楚地说明本发明的技术方案,而不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例1
实施例1羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺包括以下步骤:
S1:天然色素的提取,将梧桐叶粉碎置于水中,加热80℃超声条件下浸泡煮1.5h,冷却室温静置 20min 后过滤,得滤液稀释滤液;
S2:向S1所得稀释滤液中加入渗透剂、匀染剂、明矾,混合均匀,得含天然染料的染液,染液中渗透剂中重量百分比为1.5%,匀染剂的重量百分比为2%,明矾的重量百分比为6%;
S3:将羊绒织物置于染液中,浴比1:20,缓慢升温至95℃保温反应80min,降温至70℃,加入1,6-己二醇,保温反应60min,取出羊绒织物;
S4:清水清洗羊绒织物,干燥。
渗透剂为脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸酯盐;S3中的缓慢升温速率是1.5℃/min;匀染剂为十二烷基二甲基苄基氯化铵;S1中超声频率为35~40kHz。
实施例2
实施例2与实施例1的区别在于:
S1:加热85℃超声条件下浸泡煮1h,冷却室温静置30 min 后过滤;
S2:染液中渗透剂中重量百分比为0.5%,匀染剂的重量百分比为3%,明矾的重量百分比为5%;
S3:将羊绒织物置于染液中,浴比1:30,缓慢升温至95℃保温反应50min,降温至80℃,加入1,6-己二醇,保温反应40min,取出羊绒织物;
渗透剂为烷基磷酸酯盐。
S3中的缓慢升温速率是1.5℃/min。
匀染剂为十二烷基二甲基苄基氯化铵和磺化油以重量比1:2组合而成。S1中超声频率为40kHz。
实施例3
实施例3与实施例2的区别在于:
S1:加热82℃超声条件下浸泡煮1h,冷却室温静置 25 min 后过滤;
S2:染液中渗透剂中重量百分比为1%,匀染剂的重量百分比为2.5%,明矾的重量百分比为5.5%;
S3:将羊绒织物置于染液中,浴比1:25,缓慢升温至95℃保温反应65min,降温至75℃,加入1,6-己二醇,保温反应50min,取出羊绒织物;
S3中的缓慢升温速率是1.7℃/min;匀染剂为磺化油和高级醇硫酸酯钠盐以重量比1:3组合而成;S1中超声频率为37kHz。
实施例4
基于实施例3,染液中还含有0.5%的蛋白质衍生物,蛋白质衍生物为脂蛋白。蛋白质衍生物含量低于0.1%时,对羊绒的保护作用不明显。
染色面料色牢度和织物中羊绒纤维断裂强力对比:
实施例1-4所得面料的耐皂洗色牢度能保持在 4 级以上,但耐干摩擦色牢度为3级,实施例1-3织物中羊绒的断裂强力小于实施例4,说明在高温条件下,蛋白质衍生物对羊绒纤维具有保护作用。
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式,应当指出,对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说,在不脱离本发明技术原理的前提下,还可以做出若干改进和润饰,这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (6)

1.一种羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
S1:天然色素的提取,将梧桐叶粉碎置于水中,加热80~85℃超声条件下浸泡煮1~1.5h,冷却室温静置 20~30 min 后过滤,得滤液稀释滤液;
S2:向S1所得稀释滤液中加入渗透剂、匀染剂、明矾,混合均匀,得含天然染料的染液,染液中渗透剂中重量百分比为0.5~1.5%,匀染剂的重量百分比为2~3%,明矾的重量百分比为5~6%;
S3:将羊绒织物置于染液中,浴比1:(20~30),缓慢升温至95℃保温反应50~80min,降温至70~80℃,加入1,6-己二醇,保温反应40~60min,取出羊绒织物;
S4:清水清洗羊绒织物,干燥。
2.根据权利要求1所述的羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺,其特征在于,渗透剂为选自脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸酯盐和烷基磷酸酯盐中的一种或两种以上的组合。
3.根据权利要求1所述的羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺,其特征在于,S3中的缓慢升温速率是1.5~2℃/min。
4.根据权利要求1所述的羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺,其特征在于,匀染剂为选自十二烷基二甲基苄基氯化铵、十八烷基二甲基苄基氯化铵、磺化油和高级醇硫酸酯钠盐中的一种或两种以上的组合。
5.根据权利要求1所述的羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺,其特征在于,S1中超声频率为35~40kHz。
6.根据权利要求1所述的羊绒织物的天然染料染色工艺,其特征在于,染液中还含有0.1~0.5%的蛋白质衍生物,蛋白质衍生物为脂蛋白和/或糖蛋白。
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CN110318273A (zh) * 2019-08-10 2019-10-11 南通赛威染整科技有限公司 一种应用于混纺纤维的无盐印染助剂及其制备方法
CN110904698A (zh) * 2019-11-21 2020-03-24 宁波广源纺织品有限公司 一种微波-超声波协同辅助天然染料提取染色的方法
CN112522968A (zh) * 2020-12-02 2021-03-19 浙江羊绒世家服饰有限公司 一种提高深色羊绒织物耐摩擦牢度的方法

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