CN108950843A - 一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法 - Google Patents

一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法 Download PDF

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CN108950843A
CN108950843A CN201810799273.5A CN201810799273A CN108950843A CN 108950843 A CN108950843 A CN 108950843A CN 201810799273 A CN201810799273 A CN 201810799273A CN 108950843 A CN108950843 A CN 108950843A
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crease
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黄小良
徐高阳
王富军
邹银芳
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JIANGSU DANMAO TEXTILE CO Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
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    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/58—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides
    • D06M11/59—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides with ammonia; with complexes of organic amines with inorganic substances
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    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/564—Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
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    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/32—Polyesters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/34—Polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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Abstract

本发明提供一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：1）原料选择；采用细支羊毛、化学纤维、弹性纤维；2）条染；对于羊毛动物纤维，采用85‑90°C的低温染色；3）复精梳；4）纺纱；采用紧密纺纺纱；5）针织；采用28针、36针、40针等高密针织园机织造；6）染整；采用助剂BAP：30‑60g/l，New BAP：80‑120g/l，纳米聚氨酯BAYPRET NANO PU：30‑60g/l，二浸二轧，焙烘，进行机可洗、抗皱一体性整理；7）成品检验。相对于现有技术，本发明的主要技术效果在于：系统、全面提高了毛精纺针织面料的抗皱、免烫、机可洗、高保型的功能，获得了一种高档、时尚、舒适、抗皱、保型、易护理的高抗皱易护理时尚精纺针织面料。

Description

一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织技术领域，特别是涉及一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法。
背景技术
我国“纺织工业发展规划”要求，加强产品形态、产品功能、消费体验等各环节创意设计，开发时尚、个性、健康舒适、免烫防污、易护理等功能性纺织品，改善天然纤维面料舒适、易护理性能，提高天然纤维面料品质。同时，毛精纺针织面料的发展，已不仅仅局限于毛衫类，现在针织外套类被更多人喜欢。
而高保型易护理时尚精纺针织面料，具有高档、时尚、舒适、抗皱、保型、易护理、机可洗等优点，正切准我国纺织工业发展规划的要求，符合毛针织产品的发展趋势，适应现代快节奏的生活方式，满足国内外市场的需求。
为此，要积极把握需求增长与消费升级的趋势，开发高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料。
发明内容
本发明所要解决的技术问题是提供一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法，获得一种抗皱、保型、易护理、机可洗性能优良的高档、时尚、舒适的毛精纺针织面料。
为解决上述技术问题，本发明的目的可以通过以下技术解决方案来实现。
一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法，包括以下步骤：
1）原料选择；采用细支羊毛、化学纤维、弹性纤维；
进一步地，步骤1）所述化学纤维包括锦纶、涤纶；
进一步地，步骤1）所述弹性纤维包括CM800、SORONA、莱卡等，弹性纤维的采用，很好地提高了毛精纺针织面料的弹性、弹性恢复性，抗皱性、褶皱回复性；
2）条染；对于羊毛动物纤维，采用85-90°C的低温染色，以减少羊毛纤维因高温染色所造成的损伤，发挥和保护羊毛纤维的抗皱、弹性及其回复性等优良性能，使毛精纺针织面料保型、抗皱性能得到更好地体现；同时，提高了高支纱纺纱的可纺性、及纤维、纱线强力，也保证和提高了毛精纺针织面料的织造效率和产品质量；
3）复精梳；
4）纺纱；采用紧密纺纺纱，其纱线结构紧密，纤维顺直，使得纱线及其毛针织面料不易变形，提高了抗皱、保型性能；同时，其纺纱条干、强力好、毛羽少，有利于高支、紧密、细针园机的织造，提高生产效率及高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的质量和档次；
进一步地，步骤4）所述紧密纺纺纱的纺纱支数采用Nm50s/1-100s/1的高支纱，或莱卡包芯纱，以使高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料结构紧密，或具有弹性及弹性回复性，更进一步提高毛精纺针织面料的抗皱、保型性能；
5）针织；采用28针、36针、40针等高密针织园机织造，织造高密的针织面料，使本具有较好弹性、抗皱、保型的针织面料更具高保型的性能；
6）染整；采用助剂BAP：30-60g/l，New BAP：80-120g/l，纳米聚氨酯BAYPRET NANO PU：30-60g/l，二浸二轧，焙烘，进行机可洗、抗皱一体性整理，以使高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料达到极佳的既抗皱保型又机可洗的双重功能；
进一步地，在步骤6）所述机可洗、抗皱一体性整理之前，采用液氨整理，以使棉纤维及其织物缩率小、弹性好、抗皱性强、尺寸稳定，手感柔韧，赋予了织物防缩、防皱、柔软的效果；使羊毛纤维及其织物生成新的基团，新基团之间、及新基团与纤维中的其他基团形成新的交联，从而结构稳定性提高，弹性增加，抗皱性提高；
7）成品检验。
有益效果
相对于现有技术，本发明的主要技术效果在于：高支羊毛等原料的选用，尤其是弹性纤维的选用，提高了毛精纺针织面料的弹性、弹性恢复性，抗皱性、褶皱回复性；对于羊毛动物纤维的低温染色，采用紧密纺纺纱的紧密高支纱的纺制，高密针织园机的高密度针织面料的织造，尤其是后整理抗皱及机可洗功能性整理的技术融合，更或进行液氨整理，系统、全面提高了毛精纺针织面料的抗皱、免烫、机可洗、高保型的功能，获得了一种高档、时尚、舒适、抗皱、保型、易护理的高抗皱易护理时尚精纺针织面料。
具体实施方式
下面详细描述本发明的实施例。
实施例1
一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法，包括以下步骤：原料选择—条染—复精梳—纺纱—针织—染整—成品检验，
1、上述的原料选择，采用100S细支羊毛，莱卡纤维；
2、上述的条染，对100S细支羊毛，采用85°C的低温染色，低温染色采用公知技术；
3、上述的复精梳，采用公知技术；
4、上述的纺纱，采用紧密纺纺纱；
更进一步的在于，纺纱支数采用Nm70s/1的高支莱卡包芯纺单纱，纺纱采用公知技术；
5、上述的针织，采用36针的高密针织园机织造，针织采用公知技术；
6、上述的染整，采用日本化药株式会社的机可洗助剂BAP：50g/l，New BAP：120g/l，拓纳贸易（上海）有限公司的纳米聚氨酯BAYPRET NANO PU：50g/l，二浸二轧，焙烘，进行机可洗、抗皱一体性整理；
7、上述的成品检验，采用公知技术。
采用此种方法制造出的成品，抗皱、保型性达到美国AATCC 128标准4-5级及以上，机洗缩率≤-5.0-2.0%，洗后外观面料平整度≥4-5级。
实施例2
一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法，包括以下步骤：原料选择—条染—复精梳—纺纱—针织—染整—成品检验，
1、上述的原料选择，采用80S细支羊毛，涤纶化学纤维，CM800弹性长丝纤维。
2、上述的条染，对80S细支羊毛采用90°C的低温染色，低温染色采用公知技术；
3、上述的复精梳，采用公知技术；
4、上述的纺纱，采用紧密纺纺纱；
更进一步的在于，纺纱支数采用Nm85的高支单纱，纺纱采用公知技术；
5、上述的针织，采用40针高密针织园机织造，针织采用公知技术；
6、上述的染整，采用日本化药株式会社的机可洗助剂BAP：40g/l，New BAP：90g/l，拓纳贸易（上海）有限公司的纳米聚氨酯BAYPRET NANO PU：40g/l，二浸二轧，焙烘，进行机可洗、抗皱一体性整理；
更进一步的在于，在上述的机可洗、抗皱一体性整理之前，采用液氨整理，液氨整理采用公知技术；
7、上述的成品检验，采用公知技术。
采用此种方法制造出的成品，抗皱、保型性达到美国AATCC 128标准4-5级及以上，机洗缩率≤-5.0-2.0%，洗后外观面料平整度≥4-5级。
相对于现有技术，本发明的主要技术效果在于：高支羊毛等原料的选用，尤其是弹性纤维的选用，提高了毛精纺针织面料的弹性、弹性恢复性，抗皱性、褶皱回复性；对于羊毛动物纤维的低温染色，采用紧密纺纺纱的紧密高支纱的纺制，高密针织园机的高密度针织面料的织造，尤其是后整理抗皱及机可洗功能性整理的技术融合，更或进行液氨整理，系统、全面提高了毛精纺针织面料的抗皱、免烫、机可洗、高保型的功能，抗皱、保型性达到美国AATCC 128标准4-5级及以上，机洗缩率≤-5.0-2.0%，洗后外观面料平整度≥4-5级，获得了一种高档、时尚、舒适、抗皱、保型、易护理的高抗皱易护理时尚精纺针织面料。
以上所述仅为本发明的优选实施例而已，并不用于限制本发明，尽管参照前述实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明，对于本领域的技术人员来说，其依然可以对前述各实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改，或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换。凡在本发明的精神和原则之内，所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等，均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (5)

1.一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
1）原料选择；采用细支羊毛、化学纤维、弹性纤维；
2）条染；对于羊毛动物纤维，采用85-90°C的低温染色；
3）复精梳；
4）纺纱；采用紧密纺纺纱；
5）针织；采用28针、36针、40针等高密针织园机织造；
6）染整；采用助剂BAP：30-60g/l，New BAP：80-120g/l，纳米聚氨酯BAYPRET NANO PU：30-60g/l，二浸二轧，焙烘，进行机可洗、抗皱一体性整理；
7）成品检验。
2.根据权利要求1所述一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法，其特征在于，步骤1）所述化学纤维包括涤纶、锦纶。
3.根据权利要求1所述一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法，其特征在于，步骤1）所述弹性纤维包括CM800、SORONA、莱卡。
4.根据权利要求1所述一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法，其特征在于，步骤4）所述紧密纺纺纱的纺纱支数采用Nm50s/1-100s/1的高支纱，或莱卡包芯纱。
5.根据权利要求1所述一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法，其特征在于，在步骤6）所述机可洗、抗皱一体性整理之前，采用液氨整理。
CN201810799273.5A 2018-07-19 2018-07-19 一种高保型易护理毛精纺针织面料的制作方法 Pending CN108950843A (zh)

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Application publication date: 20181207