CN108589297A - 透气舒适女装及其加工工艺 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种透气舒适女装及其加工工艺，所述透气舒适女装，由透气面料制备而成。本发明透气舒适女装及其加工工艺，采用先进的测试手段，以面料的物理力学性能、透气舒适性能为指标，自主开发了一种新型透气面料，该透气面料应用在女装加工中提高生产效率及产品质量，穿着舒适、柔软、弹性好，并具有良好的抗菌性能。
Description
技术领域
本发明一种女装，尤其涉及一种透气舒适女装及其加工工艺。
背景技术
随着社会变革、市场经济发展与生活质量的提高，经历了几十年的跨越，生活方式的巨大改变，使服装设计及服装产品研发的目的、功能、品类、手法上都发生了相应的变革。服装设计是社会发展最美的符号。服装设计在为人体扬长避短，体现修饰美及成为代表不同群体身份和角色的符号，以及为既满足人体舒适的功能需求的同时能表达不同年龄群体、社会阶层群体的个性审美需求，这两个角色间运动与转变。
70后、80后与90后一代有着不尽相同的价值观、生活方式及消费行为，大多数70后有着节制，对事物保持来之不易，好好珍惜的观念；80后接受良好的教育和高素质的文化，且伴随全球化与互联网长大，其行为特征中形成了自我、追求个性与创新、不受传统约束的特点；90后是一个极速崛起发展的新兴消费群体；他们不仅是一个独立的消费群体，也影响着家庭的消费。80后与90后这两个年轻族群逐渐向市场的核心消费群转变，并且70后族群多已成为社会的中坚消费主力。
服装材料是服装的载体和服装设一计的灵感源，离开材料谈服装等于纸上谈兵。作为服装的基本要素，服装面料与服装造型之间存在着密切的内在联系。一方面，材料是服装设计的表现工具，服装设计师必须依靠各种材料来实现自己的构想，正如雕塑家需要大理石、木工需要木材一样。良好的造型与结构设想需要通过相适应的面料材质与色彩才一能得到完美体现。另一方面，当代服装多元化的发展趋势对服装材料提出了新的要求，服装思潮的变化推动了而料的创新。
随着现代科技的高速发展，新型面料层出不穷、风格各异，从而对服装设计师的设计技巧提出了新的挑战，正确理解面料和造型之间的相互关系就成为设计师必备的技巧。大量的实践表明：服装造型与面料特性之间存在着紧密的联系：面料的重量、厚度、悬垂性、方向性、伸展性以及图案特征等均会对服装造型造成影响。
发明内容
在下文中给出关于本发明的简要概述，以便提供关于本发明的某些方面的基本理解。应当理解，这个概述并不是关于本发明的穷举性概述。它并不是意图确定本发明的关键或重要部分，也不是意图限定本发明的范围。其目的仅仅是以简化的形式给出某些概念，以此作为稍后论述的更详细描述的前序。
本发明要解决的技术问题是提供一种透气舒适女装及其加工工艺。
一种透气舒适女装，由透气面料制备而成。
所述透气面料的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
S1、将5-15重量份氟碳乳液、0.5-1.5重量份甘油磷酸酯、1-3重量份三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷、2-4重量份钛酸酯偶联剂、10-20重量份二巯基乙酸乙二醇酯、1-3重量份抑菌剂、10-20重量份月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚、0.3-0.9重量份氨基硅油加入100-120重量份水中混合均匀得到整理液；
S2、将面料在整理液中浸渍10-30min，将浸渍后的面料进行轧液，轧余率为60-80％，烘干，得到透气面料。
所述浸渍的温度为30-50℃，所述面料与整理液的质量比为1：(5-15)。
所述烘干的温度为65-85℃，时间为3-9h。
所述抑菌剂为油酸咪唑啉季铵盐和/或1-苄基-1-氨乙基-2-庚烷基咪唑啉季铵盐。作为优选，所述抑菌剂由60-70wt％油酸咪唑啉季铵盐和30-40wt％1-苄基-1-氨乙基-2-庚烷基咪唑啉季铵盐组成。
所述面料由涤纶、桑蚕丝、氨纶中的一种或多种织造而成。所述面料克重为20-120g/m2。
所述钛酸酯偶联剂为异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯。
进一步地，所述钛酸酯偶联剂为改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯。
所述改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯的制备方法为：将120-130g异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯升温至55-75℃，加入0.05-0.2g对羟基苯甲醚、0.003-0.009g二月桂酸二丁基锡，保持温度为55-75℃，在转速为200-500r/min下滴加5-15g甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯和20-30g甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯，滴加完毕后，加入5-15g二氧化铈，将温度升至95-105℃，以转速为100-300r/min下反应2-5h，即得改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯。
所述甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯的滴加速度为0.01-0.05g/s。
所述甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯的滴加速度为0.01-0.05g/s。
上述透气舒适女装的加工工艺，将透气面料按常规女装生产工艺制备即得。
本发明透气舒适女装的加工工艺，采用先进的测试手段，以面料的物理力学性能、透气舒适性能为指标，自主开发了一种新型透气面料，该透气面料应用在女装加工中提高生产效率及产品质量，穿着舒适，柔软，弹性好，并具有良好的抗菌性能。
具体实施方式
悬垂性测试：参考FZ/T 01045-1996进行，测试仪器采用武汉国量仪器有限公司提供的型号为YG811E的织物悬垂性能测定仪；试验前将抗菌透湿面料在温度为20℃、相对湿度为65％的条件下调湿24小时。织物的悬垂性是织物服用性能的一个重要指标，具有良好悬垂性的服装能够形成光滑流畅的曲面造型，并能与人体恰当地贴合，给人视觉上的舒适性。
透气性能检测：按国家标准GB/T5453-1997《纺织品织物透气性的测定》进行，在1.3kPa条件下测定单位时间(秒)内每平方米面积所透过空气的量(L/m2·s)。
抑菌性能测试：参照《中华人民共和国国家标准GB15979-1995，一次性使用卫生用品卫生标准》，检测制得的透气面料对下述微生物的抑菌性能。所测试的微生物：白色念珠菌(ATCC10231)、肺炎克雷伯氏菌(ATCC4352)。将制得的透气面料(每片面积为70cm2)分别经波长为253.7nm、照射强度为200μW/cm2紫外光照射1.5min杀菌后，在每片透气面料上均匀涂布白色念珠菌1.0×105CFU/片，肺炎克雷伯氏菌1.0×105CFU/片，作用30分钟后测试每片透气面料菌含量。
实施例中原料介绍：
氟碳乳液按照申请号为申请号201410771906.3的中国专利中实施例1所示方法制备。
甘油磷酸酯，CAS号：57-03-4。
三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷，CAS号：2374-14-3。
二巯基乙酸乙二醇酯，CAS号：123-81-9。
油酸咪唑啉季铵盐按照吴效楠发表的论文《油酸咪唑啉季铵盐的合成及缓蚀性能的研究》确定的最佳工艺条件和方法进行制备。
1-苄基-1-氨乙基-2-庚烷基咪唑啉季铵盐按照申请号为200910305443.0的中国专利中具体实施方式二所示方法制备。
月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚由江苏省海安石油化工厂提供，产品规格为L-3。
异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯，CAS号：67691-13-8。
对羟基苯甲醚，CAS号：150-76-5。
二月桂酸二丁基锡，CAS号：77-58-7。
甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯，CAS号：868-77-9。
甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯，CAS号：27813-02-1。
二氧化铈，CAS号：1306-38-3，粒径200nm。
所述面料由湖州永瑞纺织有限公司提供，颜色为白色，成分为100％桑蚕丝，克重为34g/m2。
氨基硅油为嘉善江南纺织材料有限公司提供的型号为JF-8060的氨基硅油。
实施例1
透气舒适女装，由透气面料制备而成。
所述透气面料的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
S1、将10重量份氟碳乳液、1重量份甘油磷酸酯、1.5重量份三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷、3重量份异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯、12重量份二巯基乙酸乙二醇酯、2重量份油酸咪唑啉季铵盐、12重量份月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚、0.5重量份氨基硅油加入110重量份去离子水中以转速为300r/min搅拌20min混合均匀得到整理液；
S2、将面料在整理液中浸渍20min，所述浸渍的温度为40℃，所述面料与整理液的质量比为1：10，将浸渍后的面料进行轧液，轧余率为70wt％，在温度为70℃下烘干7h，得到透气面料。
上述透气舒适女装的加工工艺，将透气面料按常规女装生产工艺制备即得。
实施例2
透气舒适女装，由透气面料制备而成。
所述透气面料的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
S1、将10重量份氟碳乳液、1重量份甘油磷酸酯、1.5重量份三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷、3重量份改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯、12重量份二巯基乙酸乙二醇酯、2重量份油酸咪唑啉季铵盐、12重量份月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚、0.5重量份氨基硅油加入110重量份去离子水中以转速为300r/min搅拌20min混合均匀得到整理液；
S2、将面料在整理液中浸渍20min，所述浸渍的温度为40℃，所述面料与整理液的质量比为1：10，将浸渍后的面料进行轧液，轧余率为70wt％，在温度为70℃下烘干7h，得到透气面料。
所述改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯的制备方法为：将125g异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯升温至65℃，加入0.1g对羟基苯甲醚、0.005g二月桂酸二丁基锡，保持温度为65℃，在转速为300r/min下滴加10g甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯和25g甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯，所述甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯的滴加速度为0.02g/s，所述甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯的滴加速度为0.02g/s，待甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯和甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯都滴加完毕后，加入10g二氧化铈，将温度升至95℃，以转速为150r/min下反应4h，即得改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯。
上述透气舒适女装的加工工艺，将透气面料按常规女装生产工艺制备即得。
实施例3
透气舒适女装，由透气面料制备而成。
所述透气面料的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
S1、将10重量份氟碳乳液、1重量份甘油磷酸酯、1.5重量份三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷、3重量份改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯、12重量份二巯基乙酸乙二醇酯、2重量份油酸咪唑啉季铵盐、12重量份月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚、0.5重量份氨基硅油加入110重量份去离子水中以转速为300r/min搅拌20min混合均匀得到整理液；
S2、将面料在整理液中浸渍20min，所述浸渍的温度为40℃，所述面料与整理液的质量比为1：10，将浸渍后的面料进行轧液，轧余率为70wt％，在温度为70℃下烘干7h，得到透气面料。
所述改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯的制备方法为：将125g异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯升温至65℃，加入0.1g对羟基苯甲醚、0.005g二月桂酸二丁基锡，保持温度为65℃，在转速为300r/min下滴加10g甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯和25g甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯，所述甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯的滴加速度为0.02g/s，所述甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯的滴加速度为0.02g/s，待甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯和甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯都滴加完毕后，将温度升至95℃，以转速为150r/min下反应4h，即得改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯。
上述透气舒适女装的加工工艺，将透气面料按常规女装生产工艺制备即得。
实施例4
透气舒适女装，由透气面料制备而成。
所述透气面料的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
S1、将10重量份氟碳乳液、1重量份甘油磷酸酯、1.5重量份三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷、3重量份改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯、12重量份二巯基乙酸乙二醇酯、2重量份1-苄基-1-氨乙基-2-庚烷基咪唑啉季铵盐、12重量份月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚、0.5重量份氨基硅油加入110重量份去离子水中以转速为300r/min搅拌20min混合均匀得到整理液；
S2、将面料在整理液中浸渍20min，所述浸渍的温度为40℃，所述面料与整理液的质量比为1：10，将浸渍后的面料进行轧液，轧余率为70wt％，在温度为70℃下烘干7h，得到透气面料。
所述改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯的制备方法为：将125g异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯升温至65℃，加入0.1g对羟基苯甲醚、0.005g二月桂酸二丁基锡，保持温度为65℃，在转速为300r/min下滴加10g甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯和25g甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯，所述甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯的滴加速度为0.02g/s，所述甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯的滴加速度为0.02g/s，待甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯和甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯都滴加完毕后，加入10g二氧化铈，将温度升至95℃，以转速为150r/min下反应4h，即得改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯。
上述透气舒适女装的加工工艺，将透气面料按常规女装生产工艺制备即得。
实施例5
透气舒适女装，由透气面料制备而成。
所述透气面料的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
S1、将10重量份氟碳乳液、1重量份甘油磷酸酯、1.5重量份三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷、3重量份改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯、12重量份二巯基乙酸乙二醇酯、1.2重量份油酸咪唑啉季铵盐、0.8重量份1-苄基-1-氨乙基-2-庚烷基咪唑啉季铵盐、12重量份月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚、0.5重量份氨基硅油加入110重量份去离子水中以转速为300r/min搅拌20min混合均匀得到整理液；
S2、将面料在整理液中浸渍20min，所述浸渍的温度为40℃，所述面料与整理液的质量比为1：10，将浸渍后的面料进行轧液，轧余率为70wt％，在温度为70℃下烘干7h，得到透气面料。透气面料性能测试结果：白色念珠菌为2.6×103CFU/片，肺炎克雷伯氏菌为2.3×103CFU/片，透气性能为408L/m2·s，悬垂系数为5.93％。
所述改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯的制备方法为：将125g异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯升温至65℃，加入0.1g对羟基苯甲醚、0.005g二月桂酸二丁基锡，保持温度为65℃，在转速为300r/min下滴加10g甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯和25g甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯，所述甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯的滴加速度为0.02g/s，所述甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯的滴加速度为0.02g/s，待甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯和甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯都滴加完毕后，加入10g二氧化铈，将温度升至95℃，以转速为150r/min下反应4h，即得改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯。
上述透气舒适女装的加工工艺，将透气面料按常规女装生产工艺制备。
测试例1
将实施例1-4制备的透气面料性能进行测试。具体测试结果见表1。
表1：测试结果表
本发明透气舒适女装的加工工艺，采用先进的测试手段，以面料的物理力学性能、透气舒适性能为指标，自主开发了一种新型透气面料，该透气面料应用在女装加工中提高生产效率及产品质量，穿着舒适，柔软，弹性好，并具有良好的抗菌性能。
Claims (10)
1.一种透气舒适女装，其特征在于，由透气面料制备而成。
2.如权利要求1所述透气舒适女装，其特征在于，所述透气面料的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
S1、将5-15重量份氟碳乳液、0.5-1.5重量份甘油磷酸酯、1-3重量份三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷、2-4重量份钛酸酯偶联剂、10-20重量份二巯基乙酸乙二醇酯、1-3重量份抑菌剂、10-20重量份月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚、0.3-0.9重量份氨基硅油加入100-120重量份水中混合均匀得到整理液；
S2、将面料在整理液中浸渍10-30min，将浸渍后的面料进行轧液，轧余率为60-80％，烘干，得到透气面料。
3.如权利要求2所述透气舒适女装，其特征在于：所述浸渍的温度为30-50℃，所述面料与整理液的质量比为1：(5-15)。
4.如权利要求2所述透气舒适女装，其特征在于：所述烘干的温度为65-85℃，时间为3-9h。
5.如权利要求2所述透气舒适女装，其特征在于：所述抑菌剂为油酸咪唑啉季铵盐和/或1-苄基-1-氨乙基-2-庚烷基咪唑啉季铵盐。
6.如权利要求2所述透气舒适女装，其特征在于：所述面料由涤纶、桑蚕丝、氨纶中的一种或多种织造而成。所述面料克重为20-120g/m2。
7.如权利要求2所述透气舒适女装，其特征在于：所述钛酸酯偶联剂为异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯。
8.如权利要求2所述透气舒适女装，其特征在于：所述钛酸酯偶联剂为改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯；所述改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯的制备方法为：将120-130g异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯升温至55-75℃，加入0.05-0.2g对羟基苯甲醚、0.003-0.009g二月桂酸二丁基锡，保持温度为55-75℃，在转速为200-500r/min下滴加5-15g甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯和20-30g甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯，滴加完毕后，加入5-15g二氧化铈，将温度升至95-105℃，以转速为100-300r/min下反应2-5h，即得改性异丙基三(二辛基焦磷酸酰氧基)钛酸酯。
9.如权利要求8所述透气舒适女装，其特征在于：所述甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯的滴加速度为0.01-0.05g/s；所述甲基丙烯酸羟丙酯的滴加速度为0.01-0.05g/s。
10.如权利要求1-9中任一项所述透气舒适女装的加工工艺，将透气面料按常规女装生产工艺制备即得。
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