CN108338950B - Anti-aging composition with function of stabilizing adhesion between epidermis and dermis and application thereof - Google Patents

Anti-aging composition with function of stabilizing adhesion between epidermis and dermis and application thereof Download PDF

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CN108338950B
CN108338950B CN201810260729.0A CN201810260729A CN108338950B CN 108338950 B CN108338950 B CN 108338950B CN 201810260729 A CN201810260729 A CN 201810260729A CN 108338950 B CN108338950 B CN 108338950B
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epidermis
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composition
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CN108338950A (en
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赵伟
黄静
桑建梅
冷男
高宏旗
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Shanghai linqingxuan Biotechnology Co., Ltd
SHANGHAI QITAN BIOTECHNOLOGY Co.,Ltd.
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Shanghai Qitan Biotechnology Co ltd
Shanghai Forest Cabin Biological Tech Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10General cosmetic use

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Abstract

The invention provides an anti-aging composition and application thereof, in particular to an anti-aging composition with the function of stabilizing the adhesion between epidermis and dermis and application thereof, wherein the composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 20-30% of peony extract, 5-15% of oat polypeptide, 5-10% of asiaticoside, 5-15% of soybean isoflavone, 5-15% of Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract, 1-5% of acetylhydroxyproline, 10-20% of ginseng extract and 10-20% of cordyceps sinensis extract. The invention has the following beneficial effects: the target of action is multiple, not only the expression of collagen is promoted, but also the stable adhesion of the epidermis and the dermis can be kept; the synergistic capability is strong, and the effect of the composition exceeds that of a single raw material; has mild effect and little irritation.

Description

Anti-aging composition with function of stabilizing adhesion between epidermis and dermis and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of daily necessities, in particular to an anti-aging composition and application thereof, and specifically relates to an anti-aging composition with a function of stabilizing adhesion between epidermis and dermis and application thereof.
Background
The skin consists of the stratum corneum, stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum and dermis, and the barrier structures in these cell layers play an important role in protecting the skin from attack by external harmful factors. At present, except for aging caused by natural factors, blue light generated by computers and mobile phones, pollutants in air generated by environmental pollution, improper use of cosmetics and ultraviolet rays can cause skin damage, damage of skin barriers and acceleration of skin aging. The metabolism of the epidermis is closely related to the basement membrane, for example, the epidermis is proliferated and differentiated from the basement membrane to obtain growth factors, and a special structure, namely laminin 5, is arranged between the epidermis and the basement membrane, so that the adhesion between the epidermis and dermal tissues is stabilized. And when the age is over 25 years old, the decomposition speed of the collagen exceeds the synthesis speed of the collagen, the skin is loosened and wrinkled, and the elastic fibers are degraded, thinned and disappeared. In 1986, a report on the effectiveness of vitamin a acid in treating skin photoaging was first published in journal of american dermatological society, but since vitamin a acid has large irritation and many adverse reaction cases in application history, the use of vitamin a acid is limited, so that subsequent retinaldehyde, retinol (retinol), retinol palmitate, retinol propionate, retinol acetate and the like are derived and widely applied, but the raw materials still have problems of photostability and irritation, and the current anti-aging direction is not limited to only increasing collagen, but also needs to be researched to research the correlation between aging and skin basic structure, so that a raw material or a raw material combination with good stability, low irritation, clear mechanism and new anti-aging direction needs to be searched.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the drawbacks of the prior art, the present invention provides an anti-aging composition with stable adhesion between epidermis and dermis and its use, to stabilize the adhesion between epidermis and dermis, and to increase collagen expression and reduce collagen degradation.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect, the present invention provides an anti-aging composition with a function of stabilizing the adhesion between epidermis and dermis, comprising the following components by weight:
Figure BDA0001610213080000021
preferably, the extraction method of the peony extract comprises the following steps: pulverizing root and bark of peony, soaking or refluxing with extraction solvent, filtering, and concentrating; the extraction solvent comprises at least one of water, 1, 3-butanediol, glycerol, and 1, 2-propylene glycol.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides the use of an anti-aging composition having the effect of stabilizing the adhesion between the epidermis and the dermis in cosmetics.
In a third aspect, the invention provides an emulsion containing the anti-aging composition with the function of stabilizing the adhesion between epidermis and dermis, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1-3% of the anti-aging composition, 2-15% of glycerol, 0.5-5% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.01-2% of EDTA disodium, 0.5-5% of PEG-100 stearate, 0.1-5% of glycerol stearate, 0.1-5% of cholesterol hydroxystearate, 0.1-5% of cetyl alcohol, 0.1-5% of behenyl alcohol, 0.1-5% of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.1-2% of cholesterol, 0.1-1% of xanthan gum, 1-5% of butanediol, 0.1-0.5% of phenoxyethanol, 0.1-0.5% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.01-0.1% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.01-0.5% of essence and the balance of water.
In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing an emulsion of an anti-aging composition having the effect of stabilizing the adhesion between the epidermis and the dermis, comprising the steps of:
s1, weighing the components, sequentially adding water phase component water, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol and EDTA disodium into a water pot, heating to 85-95 ℃, cooling to 65-70 ℃, adding peony extract, oat polypeptide, asiaticoside, acetylhydroxyproline, cordyceps sinensis extract and ginseng extract, and uniformly stirring at the stirring speed of 15-25 rpm;
s2, sequentially adding PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, cholesteryl hydroxy stearate, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polydimethylsiloxane, cholesterol, soybean isoflavone and Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract as oil phase components into an oil pan, heating to 80-85 deg.C, stirring uniformly at the speed of 15-25 rpm;
s3, mixing the oil phase component and the water phase component, adding a mixed solution of xanthan gum and butanediol, homogenizing, and then preserving heat for 60-70 ℃;
s4, sequentially adding the mixed solution of phenoxyethanol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, the aqueous solution of sodium hyaluronate and the essence, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. has multiple action targets, is not limited to promoting the expression of collagen, and can also keep the stable adhesion of the epidermis and the dermis.
2. The synergistic capability is strong, and the effect of the composition exceeds that of a single raw material. When the action concentration of a certain raw material reaches the highest, the raw material does not act any more, and other raw materials can act in the signal path, so that the action of the signal path is further enhanced.
3. Has mild effect and little irritation.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to specific examples. The following examples will assist those skilled in the art in further understanding the invention, but are not intended to limit the invention in any way. It should be noted that it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit of the invention. All falling within the scope of the present invention.
Examples 1 to 3
Examples 1 to 3 relate to an antiaging composition having an effect of stabilizing the adhesion between epidermis and dermis, whose specific components and contents are shown in Table 1. The method for obtaining the peony extract comprises the following steps: pulverizing root and bark of peony, soaking or refluxing with extraction solvent, filtering, and concentrating; the solvent can be used singly or in combination, and comprises water, 1, 3-butanediol, glycerol, 1, 2-propanediol and the like; impurities are removed by membrane filtration or resin, and dried products may be used.
TABLE 1 EXAMPLES 1-3 Components and amounts of anti-aging compositions
Figure BDA0001610213080000031
Figure BDA0001610213080000041
Comparative examples 1 to 10
Comparative examples 1-10 relate to an anti-aging composition, the specific components and amounts of which are shown in table 2.
TABLE 2 comparative examples 1-10 Components and amounts of anti-aging compositions
Figure BDA0001610213080000042
Effect verification
First, test for promoting the production of laminin 5
The experimental steps are as follows:
1. culturing epidermal keratinocytes (isolated from human foreskin), adding 0.2mM calcium to the culture medium, and adding EGF and bovine pituitary extract
2. After 3 generations of culture, dispersing cells with trypsin and EDTA, filtering with 200 mesh nylon net to obtain cell suspension, centrifuging, and counting
3. According to 6X 104Culturing in culture medium at a density of one/ml
4. 0.5ml of the cell suspension was added to a 24-well plate, and 0.01% of the samples of examples and comparative examples were added and cultured for 24 hours
5. Centrifuging after finishing the culture, taking supernatant, adding tris hydrochloric acid buffer solution containing surfactant, and preserving at-25 ℃. The next day, ultrasonic treatment, and storage at-25 deg.C. On the third day, centrifuging, and collecting supernatant
6. The amount of laminin 5 produced was determined by the Elisa method, and the blank control was set at 100%
The results of the experiment are shown in table 3 below:
TABLE 3 amounts of laminin 5 produced
Sample (I) Amount of laminin 5 produced (%)
Example 1 128
Example 2 127
Example 3 127
Comparative example 1 120
Comparative example 2 118
Comparative example 3 115
Comparative example 4 111
Comparative example 5 106
Comparative example 6 105
Comparative example 7 107
Comparative example 8 112
Comparative example 9 119
Comparative example 10 118
From the analysis of the results in table 3 above, it can be seen that the compositions of the examples have a significant promoting effect on the generation of laminin 5 due to the synergistic effect between the components.
Second, test for promoting collagen expression and inhibiting MMP-1 production
The experimental steps are as follows:
1. culturing fibroblast to logarithmic phase, dispersing with trypsin to obtain cell suspension, and counting
2. According to 1 × 104Each/ml was inoculated into a 96-well plate, 200. mu.l of each well was added, 100. mu.g/ml of each of the samples of examples and comparative examples was added, and no sample was added to the blank
3. Detecting the expression level of mRNA of Col I and MMP-1 by using an RT-PCR method after 24h of culture
The results of the experiments are shown in tables 4 and 5 below:
TABLE 4 quantitative analysis results of Col I
Figure BDA0001610213080000051
Figure BDA0001610213080000061
As can be seen from the analysis of the results in table 4 above, the compositions of the examples have a significant effect of promoting the expression of collagen I due to the synergistic effect between the groups.
TABLE 5 quantitative analysis results of MMP-1
Figure BDA0001610213080000062
Figure BDA0001610213080000071
From the results analysis in Table 5 above, it can be seen that the compositions of the examples have a significant promoting effect on the inhibition of MMP-1 due to the synergistic effect between the groups.
Examples 4 to 9
Examples 4 to 9 relate to an emulsion of an anti-aging composition with a function of stabilizing the adhesion between the epidermis and the dermis, comprising the following components in percentage by mass: the anti-aging composition comprises, by weight, 1% -3% of glycerol, 2% -15% of 1, 2-pentanediol 0.5% -5%, disodium EDTA 0.01% -2%, PEG-100 stearate 0.5% -5%, glyceryl stearate 0.1% -5%, cholesterol hydroxystearate 0.1% -5%, cetyl alcohol 0.1% -5%, behenyl alcohol 0.1% -5%, polydimethylsiloxane 0.1% -5%, cholesterol 0.1% -2%, xanthan gum 0.1% -1%, butanediol 1% -5%, phenoxyethanol 0.1% -0.5%, p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.1% -0.5%, sodium hyaluronate 0.01% -0.1%, essence 0.01% -0.5%, and the balance water.
The specific addition amount of the anti-aging composition in the emulsion is shown in Table 6, and the preparation method comprises the following steps:
a1, weighing the components, sequentially adding water phase components such as water, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol and EDTA disodium into a water kettle, heating to 85-95 ℃, cooling to 65-70 ℃, adding peony extract, oat polypeptide, asiaticoside, acetylhydroxyproline, cordyceps extract and ginseng extract, and uniformly stirring at the stirring speed of 15-25 rpm;
a2, sequentially adding PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polydimethylsiloxane, cholesterol, soybean isoflavone and Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract as oil phase components into an oil pan, heating to 80-85 deg.C, stirring uniformly at the speed of 15-25 rpm;
a3, mixing the oil phase component and the water phase component, adding a mixed solution of xanthan gum and butanediol, homogenizing, and then preserving heat at 60-70 ℃;
a4, sequentially adding a mixed solution of phenoxyethanol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, an aqueous solution of sodium hyaluronate and essence, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
Comparative examples 11 to 14
Comparative examples 11-14 relate to emulsions of an anti-aging composition, wherein the specific amounts of the composition added are shown in Table 6, and the method of preparation is consistent with examples 4-9.
TABLE 6 addition amount of anti-aging composition in each of examples 4 to 9 and comparative examples 11 to 14
Figure BDA0001610213080000072
Figure BDA0001610213080000081
Skin elasticity test
30 healthy volunteers participated in the experiment (same as the two groups of experiments), male and female are not limited, the age is between 50 and 65 years, and no clinical test method of any medicine, cosmetics or health care products is participated in the last three months: random, double blind, control methods were used.
The method comprises the following specific steps:
1. marking the regions of the subject to be examined with the instrument by using a template prepared in advance, wherein each region has a size of 2.5cm2
2. The subjects applied emulsions containing different amounts of the examples and comparative examples to 4 random areas of the left and right arms, and the remaining two areas were applied with a blank (no active added) emulsion;
3. the blank control areas of the left and right arms were removed, and all test areas were marked with a skin marker, one for each of the morning and eveningThen, the sample is continuously used for 4 months, and the using amount of the sample is 2mg/cm2
3. Any other skin care products or medicines cannot be used within 30 days;
4. the test instrument is Corneometer (CK) and skin elasticity tester; the test time points are before the sample is used and after the sample is used for 4 months (the control group is before the sample is used, and the examples and the comparative examples are tested after the sample is used for 4 months), before the test, the skin is washed by water, and after the skin is dried after 30min, the test is carried out (the environmental temperature of a laboratory is controlled to be 22 +/-2 ℃, and the relative humidity is 50 +/-5%);
5. the original life rule is kept during the experiment.
Statistical treatment:
statistical analysis of the differences between the control group and the other experimental groups using the T test in SPSS19.0
The experimental results are as follows:
r5 ═ Ur/Ue (Ur means the part of skin which recovers quickly and Ue means the part which springs up quickly due to suction), the ratio of the elastic part during skin recovery to the elastic part during application of negative pressure in the first cycle of the skin test, the closer to 1, the better the skin elasticity is indicated
Table 7 results of skin viscoelasticity test
Figure BDA0001610213080000091
Figure BDA0001610213080000092
Significance is high, P < 0.01; indicates significant difference, P <0.05
According to result analysis, the composition obviously has the effect of increasing skin elasticity, the effect is linearly increased within the concentration range of 1-3%, the effect is not obvious when the concentration is low, and the effect is not enhanced when the concentration is increased to a certain range.
The above analyses were combined: the above results show that the invention increases skin elasticity by promoting the expression of laminin 5 and collagen, reducing collagen degradation, maintaining the adhesion between basement membrane and epidermis, and increasing the firmness between epidermis and dermis.
The foregoing description of specific embodiments of the present invention has been presented. It is to be understood that the present invention is not limited to the specific embodiments described above, and that various changes or modifications may be made by one skilled in the art within the scope of the appended claims without departing from the spirit of the invention. The embodiments and features of the embodiments of the present application may be combined with each other arbitrarily without conflict.

Claims (4)

1. An anti-aging composition with the function of stabilizing the adhesion between epidermis and dermis is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure FDA0002299009070000011
the extraction method of the peony extract comprises the following steps: pulverizing root and bark of peony, soaking or refluxing with extraction solvent, filtering, and concentrating; the extraction solvent comprises at least one of water, 1, 3-butanediol, glycerol, and 1, 2-propylene glycol.
2. Use of the anti-aging composition for stabilizing the adhesion between epidermis and dermis according to claim 1 in cosmetics.
3. An emulsion containing the anti-aging composition with the function of stabilizing the adhesion between the epidermis and the dermis according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: the composition of claim 1-3%, glycerin 2-15%, 1, 2-pentanediol 0.5-5%, disodium EDTA 0.01-2%, PEG-100 stearate 0.5-5%, glyceryl stearate 0.1-5%, cholesteryl hydroxystearate 0.1-5%, cetyl alcohol 0.1-5%, behenyl alcohol 0.1-5%, polydimethylsiloxane 0.1-5%, cholesterol 0.1-2%, xanthan gum 0.1-1%, butanediol 1-5%, phenoxyethanol 0.1-0.5%, p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.1-0.5%, sodium hyaluronate 0.01-0.1%, essence 0.01-0.5%, and water in balance.
4. A process for the preparation of an emulsion of an antiaging composition with stable epidermal-dermal adhesion according to claim 3, comprising the steps of:
s1, weighing the components, sequentially adding water phase component water, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol and EDTA disodium into a water pot, heating to 85-95 ℃, cooling to 65-70 ℃, adding peony extract, oat polypeptide, asiaticoside, acetylhydroxyproline, cordyceps sinensis extract and ginseng extract, and uniformly stirring at the stirring speed of 15-25 rpm;
s2, sequentially adding PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, cholesteryl hydroxy stearate, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polydimethylsiloxane, cholesterol, soybean isoflavone and Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract as oil phase components into an oil pan, heating to 80-85 deg.C, stirring uniformly at the speed of 15-25 rpm;
s3, mixing the oil phase component and the water phase component, adding a mixed solution of xanthan gum and butanediol, homogenizing, and then preserving heat for 60-70 ℃;
s4, sequentially adding the mixed solution of phenoxyethanol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, the aqueous solution of sodium hyaluronate and the essence, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
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CN107582450A (en) * 2017-09-15 2018-01-16 广州赛莱拉干细胞科技股份有限公司 A kind of anti-apolexis composition and the skin care item containing said composition

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