CN107385637B - 一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料及其制造方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,所述面料由经纱和纬纱通过织造、染整加工获得;经纱为锦氨包覆丝,纬纱为海岛型超细涤纶丝,一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料的制造方法,包括以下步骤:S1、将经纱锦氨包覆丝在分条整经机上完成整经处理;S2、将Ⅰ品全部拉直理顺并装备到喷气织机进行织造加工;S3、将Ⅱ品进行开纤处理;S4、对Ⅲ品进行磨毛、刷毛处理;S5、将Ⅳ品进行低温染色处理。本发明提出的锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,手感细腻柔软,吸水透气性优异,色牢度好,穿着舒适,其综合性能较涤氨面料有明显提升,可广泛应用于服装加工领域,其制造工艺合理,织造加工效率高,值得推广。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种麂皮绒面料,尤其涉及一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料及其制造方法。
背景技术
利用涤纶海岛纤维开发的仿麂皮绒织物,其许多性能并不亚于天然麂皮,部分性能甚至优于天然麂皮。与纯涤纶麂皮绒面料相比,锦氨包覆丝与涤纶海岛丝交织生产麂皮绒面料,可达到与纯涤纶相同的仿麂皮效果,但穿着舒适性大幅提升。
锦纶和涤纶的公定回潮率分别为4.5%和0.4%,前者的公定回潮率是后者的11倍。相同自然环境下,锦纶较涤纶吸湿透气性大幅提升,锦纶服装穿着过程中形成的微气候区更能满足人体对舒适性的要求;锦氨包覆丝具备氨纶良好的弹性和回复性,与涤氨包覆丝相比,所制成织物弹性、柔软性更能满足高档贴身内衣、健美衣、女士连裤袜、滑雪衫等产品的质量要求,发展前景十分广阔。
与纬弹织物相比,经弹织物生产时,工艺复杂,织造和染整加工技术还不够成熟,生产效率低,使经弹织物成为目前织物生产的难点之一。而从力学舒适性的角度分析,活动时人体纵向拉伸力和拉伸幅度均明显高于横向,织物的经向弹性对人体的力学舒适性将更为重要,因此开发经弹织物是弹力面料发展的重要方向。
涤纶和锦纶虽然同属疏水性纤维,均可用疏水性的分散染料染色,由于纤维结构不同,其染色性能差异明显。锦涤二相同色性差、易出现深浅不同、色光不同,布面色泽不匀等异常,染品的外观质量不佳。涤纶海岛丝要求在125~135℃染色,若温度低于125℃,涤纶上色较浅、牢度不好;而锦纶结构松弛,在煮沸条件下即可获得较高的上染量,染色的常用温度为90~100℃,温度过高,锦纶会“纸化”,造成弹力、强力损失、手感僵硬等质量问题,甚至完全丧失实用价值。基于上述陈述,本发明提出了一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料及其制造方法。
发明内容
本发明的目的是为了解决现有技术中存在的缺点,而提出的一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料及其制造方法,本发明所述面料手感细腻柔软,吸水透气性优异,色牢度好,穿着舒适性较涤氨面料有明显提升,可广泛应用于服装加工领域;本发明所述制造方法工艺搭配合理,各工序便于操作。
一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,所述面料由经纱和纬纱通过织造、染整加工获得;经纱为锦氨包覆丝,纬纱为海岛型超细涤纶丝;
一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料的制造方法,包括以下步骤:
S1、将经纱锦氨包覆丝在分条整经机上完成整经处理,整经落轴时,在距经纱头端2~3m处用胶带进行封条,整经张力为0.2~0.25N,卷绕线速度400m/min,再穿经、穿筘后,得Ⅰ品;
S2、将Ⅰ品全部拉直理顺并装备到喷气织机进行织造加工,喷气织机车速为530~550r/min,综平角度为305~315°;开口高度为34~38mm,上机张力为90kN,综高为105mm,主喷嘴空气压力为0.15~0.2MPa,辅助喷嘴气压为0.45MPa,得Ⅱ品;
S3、将Ⅱ品进行开纤处理,处理温度为90~95℃,处理时间为35min,使海岛丝的海部分充分溶解,水洗后得Ⅲ品;
S4、对Ⅲ品进行磨毛、刷毛处理后得Ⅳ品,处理过程中布料运行线速度为12m/min,逆刺辊表面转速为21r/min,顺刺辊表面转速为12r/min,上、前、后导布辊张力分别控制为25%、28%、35%;
S5、将Ⅳ品进行低温染色处理,控制染色温控工艺参数,染色温控工艺参数为:40~45℃下化料10min,布料进缸,再加入环保型分散染料低温染色载体;以2℃/min升温至70℃,再以1℃/min升温至98℃,保温70min后降温至65~70℃,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅴ品;
S6、将Ⅴ品进行还原清洗处理,纯碱浓度为2g/L,保险粉浓度为2g/L,浴比为1:60~80,处理温度为80℃,处理时间为20min,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅵ品;
S7、对Ⅵ品进行热定型处理,定型温度为160~170℃,风机转速1800r/min,车速为25~35m/min,抗静电剂和柔软剂的添加量分别为布料总质量的3~5%,根据成品门幅和平方米重量控制超喂率,得Ⅶ品。
优选的,经纱密度为330~880根/10cm,纬纱密度为280~720根/10cm;所述锦氨包覆丝中,锦纶线密度为50~105dtex/24~96f,氨纶单丝线密度为30~40dtex;所述海岛型超细涤纶丝的线密度为105~250dtex/36~72f。
优选的,所述步骤S2中的织造处理为:车速为530~550r/min,综平角度为305~315°;开口高度为34~38mm,上机张力为90kN,综高为105mm,主喷嘴空气压力为0.15~0.2MPa,辅助喷嘴气压为0.45MPa。
优选的,所述步骤S3中的开纤处理为:96%片碱浓度为10g/L,碱性去油灵浓度为1g/L,浴比为1:10。
优选的,所述步骤S5中的低温染色处理为:低温型分散染料为布料总质量的2~5%,环保型分散染料低温染色载体为布料总质量的3~5%,螯合分散剂2g/L,浴比为1:40~50,利用体积比为1:6.5的浓度为0.2mol/L的醋酸和0.2mol/L的醋酸钠调节PH至5~5.5。
与现有技术相比,本发明提出的锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,手感细腻柔软,吸水透气性优异,色牢度好,穿着舒适,其综合性能较涤氨面料有明显提升,可广泛应用于服装加工领域,本发明提出的锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料制造方法,工艺合理,织造加工效率高,染色前不需要经过预定型处理,加工流程缩短;涤锦一浴染色,染色温度降低,能耗减小;通过对染色及定型工艺的设计,成品的染色效果及物理性能均得到明显改善,可实现锦涤同浴染深浅色的技术效果,值得推广。
附图说明
图1为本发明的染色温控工艺曲线图;
图2为本发明的织物结构示意图;
图3为实施例1的组织图;
图4为实施例2的组织图;
图5为实施例3的组织图;
图6为实施例4的组织图。
附图中的标记为:
F-织物体,J-经纱,W-纬纱;
黑色方块代表经组织点,白色方块代表纬组织点。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例对本发明作进一步解说。
实施例一
本发明提出的一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,由经纱和纬纱通过织造、染整加工获得;组织如图2和图3所示,经纱为锦氨包覆丝,密度为430根/10cm,其中锦氨包覆丝中的锦纶线密度为70dtex/24f,氨纶线密度为40dtex;纬纱为海岛型超细涤纶丝,密度为720根/10cm,其中海岛型超细涤纶丝的线密度为160dtex/72f;织物组织为五枚二飞纬面缎纹组织。
其制造方法,包括以下步骤:
S1、分调整经张力为0.22N,卷绕线速度为400m/min,将经纱锦氨包覆丝在分条整经机上完成整经处理,整经落轴时,在距经纱头端2m处用胶带进行封条,再穿经、穿筘后,得Ⅰ品;
S2、分调织机转速为530r/min,综平角度为305°;开口高度为34mm,上机张力为90kN,综高为105mm,主喷嘴空气压力为0.2MPa,辅助喷嘴气压为0.45MPa,将Ⅰ品全部拉直理顺并装备到喷气织机进行织造加工,得Ⅱ品;
S3、在96%片碱浓度为10g/L,碱性去油灵浓度为1g/L,浴比为1:10,处理温度为90℃,处理时间为35min的条件下,将Ⅱ品进行开纤处理,使海岛丝的海部分充分溶解,水洗后,得Ⅲ品;
S4、分调布料运行线速度为12m/min,逆刺辊表面转速为21r/min,顺刺辊表面转速为12r/min,上、前、后导布辊张力分别控制为25%、28%、35%,对Ⅲ品进行磨毛处理,然后经刷毛处理得Ⅳ品;
S5、在低温型分散染料为布料总质量的2%,环保型分散染料低温染色载体为布料总质量的3%,螯合分散剂2g/L,浴比为1:40,利用体积比为1:6.5的浓度为0.2mol/L的醋酸和0.2mol/L的醋酸钠调节PH至5的条件下,将Ⅳ品进行低温染色处理,控制染色温控工艺参数为40℃下化料10min,布料进缸,再加入环保型分散染料低温染色载体;以2℃/min升温至70℃,再以1℃/min升温至98℃,保温70min后降温至65℃,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅴ品;
S6、在纯碱浓度为2g/L,保险粉浓度为2g/L,浴比为1:60,处理温度为80℃,处理时间为20min的条件下,将Ⅴ进行还原清洗处理,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅵ品;
S7、在定型温度为160℃,风机转速1800r/min,车速为25m/min,抗静电剂和柔软剂的添加量分别为布料总质量的3%的条件下,对Ⅵ品进行热定型处理,根据成品门幅和平方米重量控制超喂率,得Ⅶ品。
实施例二
本发明提出的一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,由经纱和纬纱通过织造、染整加工获得;组织如图2和图4所示,经纱为锦氨包覆丝,密度为460根/10cm,其中锦氨包覆丝中的锦纶线密度为75dtex/36f,氨纶线密度为40dtex;纬纱为海岛型超细涤纶丝,密度为720根/10cm,其中海岛型超细涤纶丝的线密度为160dtex/72f;织物组织为五枚三飞纬面缎纹组织。
其制造方法,包括以下步骤:
S1、分调整经张力为0.22N,卷绕线速度为400m/min,将经纱锦氨包覆丝在分条整经机上完成整经处理,整经落轴时,在距经纱头端2m处用胶带进行封条,再穿经、穿筘后,得Ⅰ品;
S2、分调织机转速为530r/min,综平角度为305°;开口高度为34mm,上机张力为90kN,综高为105mm,主喷嘴空气压力为0.2MPa,辅助喷嘴气压为0.45MPa,将Ⅰ品全部拉直理顺并装备到喷气织机进行织造加工,得Ⅱ品;
S3、在96%片碱浓度为10g/L,碱性去油灵浓度为1g/L,浴比为1:10,处理温度为95℃,处理时间为35min的条件下,将Ⅱ品进行开纤处理,使海岛丝的海部分充分溶解,水洗后,得Ⅲ品;
S4、分调布料运行线速度为12m/min,逆刺辊表面转速为21r/min,顺刺辊表面转速为12r/min,上、前、后导布辊张力分别控制为25%、28%、35%,对Ⅲ品进行磨毛处理,然后经刷毛处理得Ⅳ品;
S5、在低温型分散染料为布料总质量的5%,环保型分散染料低温染色载体为布料总质量的5%,螯合分散剂2g/L,浴比为1:50,利用体积比为1:6.5的浓度为0.2mol/L的醋酸和0.2mol/L的醋酸钠调节PH至5.5的条件下,将Ⅳ品进行低温染色处理,控制染色温控工艺参数为45℃下化料10min,布料进缸,再加入环保型分散染料低温染色载体;以2℃/min升温至70℃,再以1℃/min升温至98℃,保温70min后降温至70℃,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅴ品;
S6、在纯碱浓度为2g/L,保险粉浓度为2g/L,浴比为1:80,处理温度为80℃,处理时间为20min的条件下,将Ⅴ进行还原清洗处理,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅵ品;
S7、在定型温度为170℃,风机转速1800r/min,车速为35m/min,抗静电剂和柔软剂的添加量分别为布料总质量的5%的条件下,对Ⅵ品进行热定型处理,根据成品门幅和平方米重量控制超喂率,得Ⅶ品。
实施例三
本发明提出的一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,由经纱和纬纱通过织造、染整加工获得;组织如图2和图5所示,经纱为锦氨包覆丝,密度为700根/10cm,其中锦氨包覆丝中的锦纶线密度为105dtex/36f,氨纶线密度为40dtex;纬纱为海岛型超细涤纶丝,密度为300根/10cm,其中海岛型超细涤纶丝的线密度为160dtex/72f;织物组织为八枚三飞经面缎纹组织。
其制造方法,包括以下步骤:
S1、分调整经张力为0.2N,卷绕线速度为400m/min,将经纱锦氨包覆丝在分条整经机上完成整经处理,整经落轴时,在距经纱头端2m处用胶带进行封条,再穿经、穿筘后,得Ⅰ品;
S2、分调织机转速为530r/min,综平角度为305°;开口高度为38mm,上机张力为90kN,综高为105mm,主喷嘴空气压力为0.2MPa,辅助喷嘴气压为0.45MPa,将Ⅰ品全部拉直理顺并装备到喷气织机进行织造加工,得Ⅱ品;
S3、在96%片碱浓度为10g/L,碱性去油灵浓度为1g/L,浴比为1:10,处理温度为93℃,处理时间为35min的条件下,将Ⅱ品进行开纤处理,使海岛丝的海部分充分溶解,水洗后,得Ⅲ品;
S4、分调布料运行线速度为12m/min,逆刺辊表面转速为21r/min,顺刺辊表面转速为12r/min,上、前、后导布辊张力分别控制为25%、28%、35%,对Ⅲ品进行磨毛处理,然后经刷毛处理得Ⅳ品;
S5、在低温型分散染料为布料总质量的3%,环保型分散染料低温染色载体为布料总质量的4%,螯合分散剂2g/L,浴比为1:45,利用体积比为1:6.5的浓度为0.2mol/L的醋酸和0.2mol/L的醋酸钠调节PH至5.2的条件下,将Ⅳ品进行低温染色处理,控制染色温控工艺参数为43℃下化料10min,布料进缸,再加入环保型分散染料低温染色载体;以2℃/min升温至70℃,再以1℃/min升温至98℃,保温70min后降温至68℃,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅴ品;
S6、在纯碱浓度为2g/L,保险粉浓度为2g/L,浴比为1:70,处理温度为80℃,处理时间为20min的条件下,将Ⅴ进行还原清洗处理,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅵ品;
S7、在定型温度为165℃,风机转速1800r/min,车速为30m/min,抗静电剂和柔软剂的添加量分别为布料总质量的4%的条件下,对Ⅵ品进行热定型处理,根据成品门幅和平方米重量控制超喂率,得Ⅶ品。
实施例四
本发明提出的一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,由经纱和纬纱通过织造、染整加工获得;组织如图2和图6所示,经纱为锦氨包覆丝,密度为700根/10cm,其中锦氨包覆丝中的锦纶线密度为105dtex/36f,氨纶线密度为40dtex;纬纱为海岛型超细涤纶丝,密度为300根/10cm,其中海岛型超细涤纶丝的线密度为160dtex/72f;织物组织为八枚五飞纬面缎纹组织。
其制造方法,包括以下步骤:
S1、分调整经张力为0.2N,卷绕线速度为400m/min,将经纱锦氨包覆丝在分条整经机上完成整经处理,整经落轴时,在距经纱头端2m处用胶带进行封条,再穿经、穿筘后,得Ⅰ品;
S2、分调织机转速为530r/min,综平角度为305°;开口高度为38mm,上机张力为90kN,综高为105mm,主喷嘴空气压力为0.2MPa,辅助喷嘴气压为0.45MPa,将Ⅰ品全部拉直理顺并装备到喷气织机进行织造加工,得Ⅱ品;
S3、在96%片碱浓度为10g/L,碱性去油灵浓度为1g/L,浴比为1:10,处理温度为90℃,处理时间为35min的条件下,将Ⅱ品进行开纤处理,使海岛丝的海部分充分溶解,水洗后,得Ⅲ品;
S4、分调布料运行线速度为12m/min,逆刺辊表面转速为21r/min,顺刺辊表面转速为12r/min,上、前、后导布辊张力分别控制为25%、28%、35%,对Ⅲ品进行磨毛处理,然后经刷毛处理得Ⅳ品;
S5、在低温型分散染料为布料总质量的5%,环保型分散染料低温染色载体为布料总质量的3%,螯合分散剂2g/L,浴比为1:50,利用体积比为1:6.5的浓度为0.2mol/L的醋酸和0.2mol/L的醋酸钠调节PH至5的条件下,将Ⅳ品进行低温染色处理,控制染色温控工艺参数为45℃下化料10min,布料进缸,再加入环保型分散染料低温染色载体;以2℃/min升温至70℃,再以1℃/min升温至98℃,保温70min后降温至65℃,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅴ品;
S6、在纯碱浓度为2g/L,保险粉浓度为2g/L,浴比为1:80,处理温度为80℃,处理时间为20min的条件下,将Ⅴ进行还原清洗处理,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅵ品;
S7、在定型温度为160℃,风机转速1800r/min,车速为35m/min,抗静电剂和柔软剂的添加量分别为布料总质量的3%的条件下,对Ⅵ品进行热定型处理,根据成品门幅和平方米重量控制超喂率,得Ⅶ品。
分别测试本发明实施例一~四中制造的锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料的弹性伸长率、干摩擦色牢度和湿摩擦色牢度,得出如下结果:
将本发明实施例一中制造的锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料与市售的某品牌涤氨经弹织物相比,其优势如下表所示:
以上所述,仅为本发明较佳的具体实施方式,但本发明的保护范围并不局限于此,任何熟悉本技术领域的技术人员在本发明揭露的技术范围内,根据本发明的技术方案及其发明构思加以等同替换或改变,都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (4)
1.一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,其特征在于,所述面料由经纱和纬纱通过织造、染整加工获得;经纱为锦氨包覆丝,纬纱为海岛型超细涤纶丝;该面料的制造方法,包括以下步骤:
S1、将经纱锦氨包覆丝在分条整经机上完成整经处理,整经落轴时,在距经纱头端2~3m处用胶带进行封条,整经张力为0.2~0.25N,卷绕线速度400m/min,再穿经、穿扣后,得Ⅰ品;
S2、将Ⅰ品全部拉直理顺并装备到喷气织机进行织造加工,喷气织机车速为530~550r/min,综平角度为305~315˚;开口高度为34~38mm,上机张力为90kN,综高为105mm,主喷嘴空气压力为0.15~0.2MPa,辅助喷嘴气压为0.45MPa,得Ⅱ品;
S3、将Ⅱ品进行开纤处理,处理温度为90~95℃,处理时间为35min,使海岛丝的海部分充分溶解,水洗后得Ⅲ品;
S4、对Ⅲ品进行磨毛、刷毛处理后得Ⅳ品,处理过程中布料运行线速度为12m/min,逆刺辊表面转速为21r/min,顺刺辊表面转速为12r/min,上、前、后导布辊张力分别控制为25%、28%、35%;
S5、将Ⅳ品进行低温染色处理,控制染色温控工艺参数,染色温控工艺参数为:40~45℃下化料10min,布料进缸,再加入环保型分散染料低温染色载体;以2℃/min升温至70℃,再以1℃/min升温至98℃,保温70min后降温至65~70℃,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅴ品;
S6、将Ⅴ品进行还原清洗处理,纯碱浓度为2g/L,保险粉浓度为2g/L,浴比为1:60~80,处理温度为80℃,处理时间为20min,处理完毕后出缸得Ⅵ品;
S7、对Ⅵ品进行热定型处理,定型温度为160~170℃,风机转速1800r/min,车速为25~35m/min,抗静电剂和柔软剂的添加量分别为布料总质量的3~5%,根据成品门幅和平方米重量控制超喂率,得Ⅶ品。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,其特征在于,所述经纱密度为330~880根/10cm,纬纱密度为280~720根/10cm;所述锦氨包覆丝中,锦纶线密度为50~105dtex/24~96f,氨纶单丝线密度为30~40dtex;所述海岛型超细涤纶丝的线密度为105~250dtex/36~72f。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,其特征在于,所述步骤S3中的开纤处理为:96%片碱浓度为10g/L,碱性去油灵浓度为1g/L,浴比为1:10。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种锦涤经弹麂皮绒面料,其特征在于,所述步骤S5中的低温染色处理为:环保型分散染料低温染色载体为布料总质量的3~5%,螯合分散剂2g/L,浴比为1:40~50,利用体积比为1:6.5的浓度为0.2mol/L的醋酸和0.2mol/L的醋酸钠调节PH至5~5.5。
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