CN107326693A - 一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法 - Google Patents

一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法 Download PDF

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CN107326693A
CN107326693A CN201710728624.9A CN201710728624A CN107326693A CN 107326693 A CN107326693 A CN 107326693A CN 201710728624 A CN201710728624 A CN 201710728624A CN 107326693 A CN107326693 A CN 107326693A
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fabric
coating
preparation
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毛瑞元
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Jiangsu Eray Family Industrial Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法，包括坯布制造、坯布烧毛、退浆、丝光、涂层、预缩、验整工序，本发明采用多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料中特有的断裂伸率大(700‑1100％)和断裂强度好(≥250kgf/cm2)等特点生产，可解决常规弹力面料涂层手感粗糙硬实，回弹力小、拉伸裂纹等缺点，提升涂层面料柔软、滑爽、增加热透气性、稳定性以及黏着性等，特别是在女装超弹力服装性能上有明显改善。

Description

一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法
技术领域
本发明属于面料领域，具体涉及一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法。
背景技术
目前，市场弹力面料需求量大，但大部分含氨纶丝的弹力织物不耐高温，不耐热浓碱，加工时难以去除折痕，难以达到规定的弹性和尺寸稳定性。由于弹力坯布下机后，其幅宽方向的回收缩可高达40-60％，在加工时，极易导致布面起皱和卷边，生产难度大。含氨纶弹力织物会受到碱和有效氯的攻击，使弹力纤维断键水解，造成弹性和强力下降，并且高温也会损失强力及弹性，因此大大限制了其加工条件，很多功能性整理不适合于氨纶弹力织物，如抗皱整理，防水、防油、防污整理。而一般涤棉混纺织物耐高温，适合于工装面料加工，对加工工艺条件要求不苛刻，适合所有的后整理加工，市场需求量大，价格便宜，颜色丰富、手感柔软，但缺点是弹力较差，穿着不舒服、不美观、档次低，同时常规弹力牛仔经过涂层后布面手感硬实，纬向弹力布面组织点经涂层浆料填充覆盖后水洗回缩率较小失去原有弹力风格，整体布面弹力减少50％左右，且面料水洗后涂层面经拉伸后容易出现经向裂纹影响面料美观及服装价值。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于针对现有技术的缺陷和不足，提供一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法。
为实现上述目的，本发明采用以下技术方案：
一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法，包括坯布制造、坯布烧毛、退浆、丝光、涂层、预缩、验整工序，其特征在于；
所述的坯布烧毛中车速50-60米/分；
在所述的退浆中先采用浸扎酶液处理，所述的浸扎酶液是由10-12g/LBF-7658淀粉酶、6-8g/L Nacl、3-4g/L渗透剂JFC混合组成，先在40-50℃下堆置30-40分钟，然后在50-60℃下汽蒸，再用60-80℃的热水洗，再用冷水洗至常温，拉斜8-10cm，3组锡林烘干落布，烘干温度为100-120℃；
所述的丝光过程中具体过程为：面料车速40-50米/分，浸扎碱液，所述的碱液是由250-300g/L的烧碱、9-10g/L的丝光渗透剂混合组成，浸扎温度为15-25℃，然后采用2-3g/L的冰醋酸中和，50-60℃的水洗3-4次，25-30℃的水洗3-4次，拉斜8-10cm，3组锡林烘干落布，烘干温度100-120℃；
所述的涂层为采用溶剂型多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料进行涂层，包括2次涂层，第1次涂层的温控为150-160℃，车速25-30米/分，轧光温控为170-180℃，车速30-35米/分，第2次涂层的温控为160-170℃，车速35-40米/分；所述的溶剂型多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料是由下述重量份的原料组成的：
聚氨酯原料60-70、甲苯30-40、柔软剂3-5、助剂3-4；
所述的预缩处理在莫里森预缩机内进行，车速为40-50米/分，经向缩率4％以内、纬向3％以内。
所述的柔软剂为聚二甲基硅氧烷。
所述的助剂是由下述重量份的原料组成的：
辛基异噻唑啉酮0.8-1、肉豆蔻酸钠皂2-3、乙基纤维素1-2、乙酸乙酯7-9、胶联剂5-6；
制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)取乙基纤维素，加热软化，加入到乙酸乙酯中，搅拌均匀，得纤维溶液；
(2)取肉豆蔻酸钠皂，加入到其重量5-7倍的去离子水中，搅拌均匀，加入胶联剂，在50-60℃下保温搅拌10-20分钟，与上述纤维溶液混合，加入辛基异噻唑啉酮，超声3-5分钟，脱水，即得所述助剂。
所述的胶联剂为N-羟甲基丙烯酰胺。
本发明的优点：
本发明采用多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料中特有的断裂伸率大(700-1100％)和断裂强度好(≥250kgf/cm2)等特点生产，可解决常规弹力面料涂层手感粗糙硬实，回弹力小、拉伸裂纹等缺点，提升涂层面料柔软、滑爽、增加热透气性、稳定性以及黏着性等，特别是在女装超弹力服装性能上有明显改善，同时本发明的多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料中含加入有辛基异噻唑啉酮，可以提高成品面料的抑菌防腐性能，加入的乙基纤维素能够增强涂层与面料的粘附效果，增强附着力，提高耐洗性。
具体实施方式
实施例1
一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法，包括坯布制造、坯布烧毛、退浆、丝光、涂层、预缩、验整工序；
所述的坯布烧毛中车速60米/分；
在所述的退浆中先采用浸扎酶液处理，所述的浸扎酶液是由12g/LBF-7658淀粉酶、8g/L Nacl、4g/L渗透剂JFC混合组成，先在50℃下堆置40分钟，然后在60℃下汽蒸，再用80℃的热水洗，再用冷水洗至常温，拉斜10cm，3组锡林烘干落布，烘干温度为120℃；
所述的丝光过程中具体过程为：面料车速50米/分，浸扎碱液，所述的碱液是由300g/L的烧碱、10g/L的丝光渗透剂混合组成，浸扎温度为25℃，然后采-3g/L的冰醋酸中和，60℃的水洗4次，30℃的水洗4次，拉斜10cm，3组锡林烘干落布，烘干温度120℃；
所述的涂层为采用溶剂型多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料进行涂层，包括2次涂层，第1次涂层的温控为160℃，车速30米/分，轧光温控为180℃，车速35米/分，第2次涂层的温控为170℃，车速40米/分；所述的溶剂型多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料是由下述重量份的原料组成的：
聚氨酯原料70、甲苯40、柔软剂5、助剂4；
所述的预缩处理在莫里森预缩机内进行，车速为50米/分，经向缩率4％以内、纬向3％以内。
所述的柔软剂为聚二甲基硅氧烷。
所述的助剂是由下述重量份的原料组成的：
辛基异噻唑啉酮1、肉豆蔻酸钠皂3、乙基纤维素2、乙酸乙酯9、胶联剂6；
制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)取乙基纤维素，加热软化，加入到乙酸乙酯中，搅拌均匀，得纤维溶液；
(2)取肉豆蔻酸钠皂，加入到其重量7倍的去离子水中，搅拌均匀，加入胶联剂，在60℃下保温搅拌20分钟，与上述纤维溶液混合，加入辛基异噻唑啉酮，超声5分钟，脱水，即得所述助剂。
所述的胶联剂为N-羟甲基丙烯酰胺。
实施例2
一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法，包括坯布制造、坯布烧毛、退浆、丝光、涂层、预缩、验整工序，所述的坯布烧毛中车速50米/分；
在所述的退浆中先采用浸扎酶液处理，所述的浸扎酶液是由10g/LBF-7658淀粉酶、6g/L Nacl、3-4g/L渗透剂JFC混合组成，先在40℃下堆置30分钟，然后在50℃下汽蒸，再用60℃的热水洗，再用冷水洗至常温，拉斜8cm，3组锡林烘干落布，烘干温度为100℃；
所述的丝光过程中具体过程为：面料车速40米/分，浸扎碱液，所述的碱液是由250g/L的烧碱、9g/L的丝光渗透剂混合组成，浸扎温度为15℃，然后采用2g/L的冰醋酸中和，50℃的水洗3次，25℃的水洗3次，拉斜8cm，3组锡林烘干落布，烘干温度100℃；
所述的涂层为采用溶剂型多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料进行涂层，包括2次涂层，第1次涂层的温控为150℃，车速25米/分，轧光温控为170℃，车速30米/分，第2次涂层的温控为160℃，车速35米/分；所述的溶剂型多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料是由下述重量份的原料组成的：
聚氨酯原料60、甲苯30、柔软剂3、助剂3；
所述的预缩处理在莫里森预缩机内进行，车速为40米/分，经向缩率4％以内、纬向3％以内。
所述的柔软剂为聚二甲基硅氧烷。
所述的助剂是由下述重量份的原料组成的：
辛基异噻唑啉酮0.8、肉豆蔻酸钠皂2、乙基纤维素1、乙酸乙酯7、胶联剂5；
制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)取乙基纤维素，加热软化，加入到乙酸乙酯中，搅拌均匀，得纤维溶液；
(2)取肉豆蔻酸钠皂，加入到其重量5倍的去离子水中，搅拌均匀，加入胶联剂，在50℃下保温搅拌10分钟，与上述纤维溶液混合，加入辛基异噻唑啉酮，超声3分钟，脱水，即得所述助剂。
所述的胶联剂为N-羟甲基丙烯酰胺。

Claims (4)

1.一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法，包括坯布制造、坯布烧毛、退浆、丝光、涂层、预缩、验整工序，其特征在于；
所述的坯布烧毛中车速50-60米/分；
在所述的退浆中先采用浸扎酶液处理，所述的浸扎酶液是由10-12g/LBF-7658淀粉酶、6-8g/L Nacl、3-4g/L渗透剂JFC混合组成，先在40-50℃下堆置30-40分钟，然后在50-60℃下汽蒸，再用60-80℃的热水洗，再用冷水洗至常温，拉斜8-10cm，3组锡林烘干落布，烘干温度为100-120℃；
所述的丝光过程中具体过程为：面料车速40-50米/分，浸扎碱液，所述的碱液是由250-300g/L的烧碱、9-10g/L的丝光渗透剂混合组成，浸扎温度为15-25℃，然后采用2-3g/L的冰醋酸中和，50-60℃的水洗3-4次，25-30℃的水洗3-4次，拉斜8-10cm，3组锡林烘干落布，烘干温度100-120℃；
所述的涂层为采用溶剂型多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料进行涂层，包括2次涂层，第1次涂层的温控为150-160℃，车速25-30米/分，轧光温控为170-180℃，车速30-35米/分，第2次涂层的温控为160-170℃，车速35-40米/分；所述的溶剂型多元醇聚氨酯树脂浆料是由下述重量份的原料组成的：
聚氨酯原料60-70、甲苯30-40、柔软剂3-5、助剂3-4；
所述的预缩处理在莫里森预缩机内进行，车速为40-50米/分，经向缩率4％以内、纬向3％以内。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述的柔软剂为聚二甲基硅氧烷。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述的助剂是由下述重量份的原料组成的：
辛基异噻唑啉酮0.8-1、肉豆蔻酸钠皂2-3、乙基纤维素1-2、乙酸乙酯7-9、胶联剂5-6；
制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)取乙基纤维素，加热软化，加入到乙酸乙酯中，搅拌均匀，得纤维溶液；
(2)取肉豆蔻酸钠皂，加入到其重量5-7倍的去离子水中，搅拌均匀，加入胶联剂，在50-60℃下保温搅拌10-20分钟，与上述纤维溶液混合，加入辛基异噻唑啉酮，超声3-5分钟，脱水，即得所述助剂。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一种肤感涂层牛仔弹力面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述的胶联剂为N-羟甲基丙烯酰胺。
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108796772A (zh) * 2018-07-04 2018-11-13 江苏英瑞世家实业有限公司 吸热保暖牛仔面料及其生产工艺
CN108951189A (zh) * 2018-09-28 2018-12-07 无锡佳纺面料有限公司 一种棉纱全棉皮膜肤感涂层处理工艺

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CN104928879A (zh) * 2015-04-15 2015-09-23 张家港英瑞实业有限公司 一种牛仔布的制造方法
CN105970683A (zh) * 2016-05-24 2016-09-28 淄博大染坊丝绸集团有限公司 一种丝锦弹力面料的染整工艺

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CN104928879A (zh) * 2015-04-15 2015-09-23 张家港英瑞实业有限公司 一种牛仔布的制造方法
CN105970683A (zh) * 2016-05-24 2016-09-28 淄博大染坊丝绸集团有限公司 一种丝锦弹力面料的染整工艺

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108796772A (zh) * 2018-07-04 2018-11-13 江苏英瑞世家实业有限公司 吸热保暖牛仔面料及其生产工艺
CN108951189A (zh) * 2018-09-28 2018-12-07 无锡佳纺面料有限公司 一种棉纱全棉皮膜肤感涂层处理工艺

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