CN107299527A - 一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,具体步骤为:1)将长丝纤维与棉纤维混纺成混纺纱;2)以纯棉纱为经线,混纺纱为纬线进行织造基布;3)用碱溶液进行丝光处理,水洗;4)将处理后的基布烘干,进入液氨轧液槽浸渍;5)将液氨处理后的基布放入树脂体系中浸渍,烘干至含潮率为6‑8%,室温堆置,水洗,烘干即得免烫衬衣面料。有益效果为:本发明的加工方法能够改变纤维的分子结构,提高纤维的初始模量,提高织物的尺寸稳定性,提高织物强度,消除皱痕折印,改善织物的最终服用性能;本发明面料具有非常好的防皱免烫效果,免熨烫功能耐久性、耐水洗性能佳,提高其经济价值。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及服装面料领域,特别涉及一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法。
背景技术
随着人们生活质量的不断改善,对纺织服装优良的服用性能越来越重视,因此市场对各种高档面料的需求量也在日益递增。人们对纺织品消费的观念也在逐渐地改变,不再单一追求纯纺面料。当代,纺织面料的发展要求为“可机洗、洗可穿、易保养、轻薄化”,这也得到了世界上大多数设计师的认可,同时他们认为“耐脏易洗,易干免熨烫”将是未来理想服装的研究趋势。纯纺技术很难同时满足以上的要求,而采用多种纤维进行交织、混纺,扬长避短,最大程度地发挥各种纤维的优势,已成为一种趋势。
衬衫作为现代男士生活中必不可少的单品之一,其穿着基本不受季节的限制,四季皆宜。据国家统计局最新统计数据显示,年我国衬衫总产量已达万件。随着人们生活水平的不断提高,市场对各种高档衬衫的需求量日益增加。当今的男士对衬衫的要求也越来越讲究,时尚的设计,精良的制作,高档的质料,精工的剪裁,每一个细节都要求处理的一丝不苟,尽善尽美。而衬衫质量的优劣是由面料质量的优劣决定的,衬衫面料选择的通常原则是:透气性好、吸湿性强、柔软、滑爽、穿着舒适、平挺抗皱、易洗快干、易保管等。男士衬衫面料的开发应注重自然、休闲与个性的结合。目前,棉纤维作为市场的主宰仍然占据着不可动摇的地位,全棉精梳高支府绸是正规衬衫用料中的精品。同时,各种新型纤维的开发也日益涌现,开发成功并较有应用价值的主要有:纤维、竹纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、牛奶蛋白纤维、纤维、纤维、纤维等,这些也开始越来越多的应用于衬衫面料。
现有技术如授权公告号为CN 102018305 B的中国发明专利,公开了一种免烫衬衫的加工工艺,首先选用经液氨潮交联整理的全面或棉混纺免烫面料经裁剪、缝制后,在缝线部位缉明线得打免烫衬衫的半成品,之后将半成品经过后处理得到免烫衬衫成品。采用该工艺生产的免烫衬衫抗皱效果好、成本低,生产效果高,且不含对人体有害的物质,但是该免烫衬衫持久性差。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种具有良好的回弹性和平整度,防皱免烫效果好,免熨烫功能耐久性、耐水洗性能佳,增加衬衫的服用寿命,提高其经济价值的免烫衬衣面料的加工方法。
本发明针对上述技术中提到的问题,采取的技术方案为:一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,包括混纺纱制备、基布制备、前处理、液氨整理、潮交联整理,具体步骤为:
混纺纱制备:将长丝纤维与棉纤维以混纺比为1:4-5混纺成混纺纱,备用,真丝纤维细嫩滑糯,有种触觉的舒适感,棉织物具有轻松保暖,柔和贴身、吸湿性、透气性好的特点,该混纺纱将棉与丝的优点结合,使得产品特色鲜明,外表美观,适用范围广,舒适耐用;
基布制备:以纯棉纱为经线,混纺纱为纬线,以195-200根/10cm的上机纬密进行织造,经热水处理后再用冷水洗,烫斗熨平,备用,织物具有丝绸光滑的手感,又给人柔软、舒适的感觉;
前处理:采用240-260g/L的碱溶液进行丝光处理,在车速55-60m/min的条件下处理基布,水洗,沥干,备用,该步骤能提高织物的尺寸稳定性,降低缩水变形程度,提高织物强度,改善弹性及布面平整度,消除皱痕折印等,为后面的液氨整理打好基础;
液氨整理:将前处理后的基布经过烘筒烘干,并将织物吹风冷却,然后进入箱体内液氨轧液槽浸渍液氨,使液氨均匀渗透并瞬时吸氨,液氨能很容易而且很快渗入棉纤维中,使棉纤维的内部结构发生变化,改善其耐磨和撕破强度,它既不损伤纤维,又能很容易从纤维中渗透出来,可以与碱丝光处理互补,可以改善织物的最终服用性能;
潮交联整理:将液氨处理后的基布放入树脂体系中,采用一浸一轧的整理工艺,轧余率为65-75%,在80-90℃下烘干至含潮率为6-8%,室温堆置20-24h,水洗后经过预烘和烘焙,预烘温度为100-110℃,预烘时间为4-6min,焙烘温度为175-185℃,焙烘时间为30-35s,即得免烫衬衣面料,该面料的棉纤维中分子的结构得到改变,使大分子之间形成交联,分子间形成网状,达到提高纤维的初始模量,增加纤维弹性,具有非常好的防皱免烫效果,具有良好的回弹性和平整度,并且强力损伤也较小。
优选的,树脂体系含有2D树脂、聚氨酯和活性多肽,2D树脂的添加量为160-180g/L、聚氨酯的添加量为40-50g/L、活性肽的添加量为0.2-0.3g/L,活性多肽的氨基酸序列为HSHACASYYVSHRGRCYCRCLRCRVLHPGKLCVCVNCSR,该活性肽能够改变面料纤维的渗透压,打开纤维内部通道,使树脂进入与纤维发生反应,使树脂在织物上的分布和结合更均匀,交联产生的应力分布均匀,从而减缓了织物的强力保留率变化;2D树脂与棉发生交联反应,聚氨酯与真丝上的-NH2、-OH以及棉纤维上的-OH产生共价交联,达到潮交联的目的,提高面料的抗皱性和回弹性,达到免烫的效果。
与现有技术相比,本发明的优点在于:1)本发明的加工方法合理调配棉纤维和真丝纤维的比例,使得混纺纱将棉与丝的优点结合,产品特色鲜明,外表美观,适用范围广,舒适耐用;2)本发明加工方法能够改变纤维的分子结构,提高纤维的初始模量,增加纤维弹性,提高织物的尺寸稳定性,降低缩水变形程度,提高织物强度,消除皱痕折印,改善织物的最终服用性能;3)本发明面料具有非常好的防皱免烫效果,具有良好的回弹性和平整度,并且强力损伤也较小,且免熨烫功能耐久性、耐水洗性能佳,增加衬衫的服用寿命,提高其经济价值。
具体实施方式
下面通过实施例对本发明方案作进一步说明:
实施例1:
一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,包括混纺纱制备、基布制备、前处理、液氨整理、潮交联整理,具体步骤为:
1)混纺纱制备:将长丝纤维与棉纤维以混纺比为1:4混纺成混纺纱,备用,真丝纤维细嫩滑糯,有种触觉的舒适感,棉织物具有轻松保暖,柔和贴身、吸湿性、透气性好的特点,该混纺纱将棉与丝的优点结合,使得产品特色鲜明,外表美观,适用范围广,舒适耐用;
2)基布制备:以纯棉纱为经线,混纺纱为纬线,以196根/10cm的上机纬密进行织造,经热水处理后再用冷水洗,烫斗熨平,备用,织物具有丝绸光滑的手感,又给人柔软、舒适的感觉;
3)前处理:采用250g/L的碱溶液进行丝光处理,在车速60m/min的条件下处理基布,水洗,沥干,备用,该步骤能提高织物的尺寸稳定性,降低缩水变形程度,提高织物强度,改善弹性及布面平整度,消除皱痕折印等,为后面的液氨整理打好基础;
4)液氨整理:将前处理后的基布经过烘筒烘干,并将织物吹风冷却,然后进入箱体内液氨轧液槽浸渍液氨,使液氨均匀渗透并瞬时吸氨,液氨能很容易而且很快渗入棉纤维中,使棉纤维的内部结构发生变化,改善其耐磨和撕破强度,它既不损伤纤维,又能很容易从纤维中渗透出来,可以与碱丝光处理互补,可以改善织物的最终服用性能;
5)潮交联整理:将液氨处理后的基布放入树脂体系中,采用一浸一轧的整理工艺处理基布,轧余率为70%,在85℃下烘干至含潮率为7%,室温堆置22h,水洗,然后经过预烘和烘焙,预烘温度为105℃,预烘时间为5min,焙烘温度为180℃,焙烘时间为30s,即得免烫衬衣面料,该面料的棉纤维中分子的结构得到改变,使大分子之间形成交联,分子间形成网状,达到提高纤维的初始模量,增加纤维弹性,具有非常好的防皱免烫效果,具有良好的回弹性和平整度,并且强力损伤也较小。
步骤5中树脂体系含有2D树脂、聚氨酯和活性多肽,2D树脂的添加量为180g/L、聚氨酯的添加量为50g/L、活性肽的添加量为0.2g/L,活性多肽的氨基酸序列为HSHACASYYVSHRGRCYCRCLRCRVLHPGKLCVCVNCSR,该活性肽能够改变面料纤维的渗透压,打开纤维内部通道,使树脂进入与纤维发生反应,使树脂在织物上的分布和结合更均匀,交联产生的应力分布均匀,从而减缓了织物的强力保留率变化;2D树脂与棉发生交联反应,聚氨酯与真丝上的-NH2、-OH以及棉纤维上的-OH产生共价交联,达到潮交联的目的,提高面料的抗皱性和回弹性,达到免烫的效果。
实施例2:
一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,具体步骤为:
1)将长丝纤维与棉纤维以混纺比为1:5混纺成混纺纱,备用,真丝纤维细嫩滑糯,有种触觉的舒适感,棉织物具有轻松保暖,柔和贴身、吸湿性、透气性好的特点,该混纺纱将棉与丝的优点结合,使得产品特色鲜明,外表美观,适用范围广,舒适耐用;
2)以纯棉纱为经线,混纺纱为纬线,以200根/10cm的上机纬密进行织造,经热水处理后再用冷水洗,烫斗熨平,备用,织物具有丝绸光滑的手感,又给人柔软、舒适的感觉;
3)采用260g/L的碱溶液进行丝光处理,在车速60m/min的条件下处理基布,水洗,沥干,备用,该步骤能提高织物的尺寸稳定性,降低缩水变形程度,提高织物强度,改善弹性及布面平整度,消除皱痕折印等,为后面的液氨整理打好基础;
4)将前处理后的基布经过烘筒烘干,并将织物吹风冷却,然后进入箱体内液氨轧液槽浸渍液氨,使液氨均匀渗透并瞬时吸氨,液氨能很容易而且很快渗入棉纤维中,使棉纤维的内部结构发生变化,改善其耐磨和撕破强度,它既不损伤纤维,又能很容易从纤维中渗透出来,可以与碱丝光处理互补,可以改善织物的最终服用性能;
5)将液氨处理后的基布放入树脂体系中,树脂体系中2D树脂的添加量为160g/L、聚氨酯的添加量为45g/L、活性肽的添加量为0.24g/L,采用一浸一轧的整理工艺,轧余率为72%,在85℃下烘干至含潮率为6%,室温堆置20h,水洗后经过预烘和烘焙,预烘温度为110℃,预烘时间为4min,焙烘温度为175℃,焙烘时间为35s,即得免烫衬衣面料,该面料的棉纤维中分子的结构得到改变,使大分子之间形成交联,分子间形成网状,达到提高纤维的初始模量,增加纤维弹性,具有非常好的防皱免烫效果,具有良好的回弹性和平整度,并且强力损伤也较小。
实施例3:
一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,具体步骤为:
将长丝纤维与棉纤维以混纺比为1:4.5混纺成混纺纱;以纯棉纱为经线,混纺纱为纬线,以195-200根/10cm的上机纬密进行织造,经热水处理后再用冷水洗,烫斗熨平;采用240-260g/L的碱溶液,在车速55-60m/min的条件下处理基布;将处理后的基布烘干,冷却,然后进入箱体内液氨轧液槽浸渍液氨;将液氨处理后的基布放入含有2D树脂170g/L、聚氨酯48g/L、活性肽0.25g/L的树脂体系中,采用一浸一轧的整理工艺处理,轧余率为72%,在88℃下烘干至含潮率为8%,室温堆置24h,水洗,在110℃下预烘4min,在180℃焙烘30s,即得免烫衬衣面料。
本发明的操作步骤中的常规操作为本领域技术人员所熟知,在此不进行赘述。
以上所述的实施例对本发明的技术方案进行了详细说明,应理解的是以上所述仅为本发明的具体实施例,并不用于限制本发明,凡在本发明的原则范围内所做的任何修改、补充或类似方式替代等,均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。
SEQUENCE LISTING
<110> 宁波市海曙区伊万卡农业科技有限公司
<120> 一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法
<130> 1
<160> 1
<170> PatentIn version 3.5
<210> 1
<211> 39
<212> PRT
<213> 人工合成
<400> 1
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1 5 10 15
Tyr Cys Arg Cys Leu Arg Cys Arg Val Leu His Pro Gly Lys Leu Cys
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Val Cys Val Asn Cys Ser Arg
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Claims (9)
1.一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,包括混纺纱制备、基布制备、前处理、液氨整理、潮交联整理,其特征在于:所述的潮交联整理为:将液氨处理后的基布放入树脂体系中,采用一浸一轧的整理工艺浸渍,烘干,堆置,水洗,预烘,烘焙,即得免烫衬衣面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的潮交联整理中树脂体系中2D树脂的添加量为160-180g/L、聚氨酯的添加量为40-50g/L、活性肽的添加量为0.2-0.3g/L。
3.根据权利要求2所述的一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的潮交联整理中活性多肽的氨基酸序列为HSHACASYYVSHRGRCYCRCLRCRVLHPGKLCVCVNCSR。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的潮交联整理中轧余率为65-75%。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的潮交联整理中含潮率为6-8%,室温堆置20-24h。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的潮交联整理中预烘温度为100-110℃,预烘时间为4-6min,焙烘温度为175-185℃,焙烘时间为30-35s。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的混纺纱制备中长丝纤维与棉纤维以混纺比为1:4-5。
8.根据权利要求1所述的一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的基布制备为:以纯棉纱为经线,混纺纱为纬线,以195-200根/10cm的上机纬密进行织造。
9.根据权利要求1所述的一种免烫衬衣面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的前处理中碱溶液浓度为240-260g/L,车速为55-60m/min。
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