CN105544045A - 羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺 - Google Patents

羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺 Download PDF

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CN105544045A
CN105544045A CN201610107144.6A CN201610107144A CN105544045A CN 105544045 A CN105544045 A CN 105544045A CN 201610107144 A CN201610107144 A CN 201610107144A CN 105544045 A CN105544045 A CN 105544045A
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wool
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overfeeding
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葛立平
杨良岳
赵秀娟
吴洪海
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Jiangsu Fanggu Technology Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，其特征是，包括以下工艺步骤：（1）经纱采用经纱A和经纱B，经纱A为74%～75%澳毛、18%～20%绢丝、3～3.3%锦纶和1.7%～5%氨纶，经纱B为绢丝纱；纬纱为采用15D/1F锦纶长丝与赛络菲尔毛纱纺成的单纱；（2）将经纱和纬纱织造后得到坯布，经纱A和经纱B的排列方式采用4根经纱A和4根经纱B间隔设置；（3）后整理：将步骤（2）得到的坯布经轧水烘呢、熟修、刷毛、烧毛、湿水、平煮、双煮、烘呢、定型、预缩，得到成品。本发明所述羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的呢面具有凹凸不平的效果，呢面星星点点，面料弹性足、立体感强。

Description

羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及一种毛呢的制备工艺，尤其是一种羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺。
背景技术
面对全球纺织产能过剩，国内外市场需求减少以及日益增加的劳动力成本、能源成本、环境治理成本和招工难等问题，作为劳动力密集型产业代表的纺织业遭遇了前所未见的发展瓶颈。低档常规纺织品加工的成本优势已完全丧失。企业怎样在全球化竞争环境的洗礼下提升自身的竞争力关系着企业的生死存亡。
国际品牌的加速进入强化了消费者的品牌消费意识，使品牌消费逐渐成为服装消费的主流。针对这一现象开发时尚、有特色、具有高附加值的品种不失为提高企业竞争力的一种有效方式。
发明内容
本发明的目的是克服现有技术中存在的不足，提供一种羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，该羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的呢面具有凹凸不平的效果，呢面星星点点，面料弹性足、立体感强。
按照本发明提供的技术方案，所述羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，其特征是，包括以下工艺步骤：
（1）经纱采用经纱A和经纱B，经纱A为74%～75%澳毛、18%～20%绢丝、3～3.3%锦纶和1.7%～5%氨纶，经纱B为绢丝纱；纬纱为采用15D/1F锦纶长丝与赛络菲尔毛纱纺成的单纱；
（2）将经纱和纬纱织造后得到坯布，经纱A和经纱B的排列方式采用4根经纱A和4根经纱B间隔设置；
（3）后整理：将步骤（2）得到的坯布经轧水烘呢、熟修、刷毛、烧毛、湿水、平煮、双煮、烘呢、定型、预缩，得到成品。
在一个具体实施方式中，所述澳毛的平均细度为17～18μm，平均长度为80～81mm。
在一个具体实施方式中，所述纬纱在细纱机上由一根赛络菲尔毛纱与一根锦纶长丝以10～12间距喂入细纱牵伸区，牵伸后加捻成纱；牵伸张力为2.5倍，细纱机车速为7000～8000转/分钟。
在一个具体实施方式中，所述经纱A由澳毛、绢丝、锦纶和氨纶在并线车上并线合股，并线时氨纶牵伸倍数为3倍，并线车速为450～500转/分钟。
在一个具体实施方式中，所述纬纱条染时只对赛络菲尔毛纱进行染色。
在一个具体实施方式中，所述烧毛步骤的车速为90～100米/分钟，压力为12～13mbar，采用一正一反烧毛，直烧。
在一个具体实施方式中，所述平煮步骤采用平幅状清洗，呢速为60～80米/分；所述烘呢呢步骤的温度为130～135℃，上超喂20%，下超喂10%，毛刷超喂15%，呢速为30～40米/分；所述定型步骤温度为180～190℃，上超喂20%，下超喂10%，毛刷超喂15%，呢速为15～20米/分钟；所述轧水烘呢步骤的温度为130～135℃，上超喂4%，下超喂3%，毛刷超喂3%，轧液中加入柔软剂，采用1浸1轧；所述刷毛步骤采用2正1反；所述双煮步骤在85～90℃来回煮4次。
本发明所述羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，经纱采用弹力毛纱和绢丝，纬纱采用含有锦纶长丝的毛纱，利用经向弹力毛纱和绢丝不同的伸缩性，采用特殊后整理工艺使呢面产生凹凸不平的效果，经向的绢丝光泽和纬向的锦纶光泽完美融合，呢面星星点点，给消费者展现了一款风格独特的时尚休闲面料。本发明所述面料色彩鲜艳、手感爽、弹性足、立体感强，同时具有时尚和休闲的特点，是一款具有立体美感的男士休闲服饰的理想面料。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
实施例一：一种羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，包括以下工艺步骤：
（1）经纱采用经纱A和经纱B，经纱A为74%澳毛、18%绢丝、3%锦纶和5%氨纶，经纱B为绢丝纱；纬纱为采用15D/1F锦纶长丝与赛络菲尔毛纱纺成的单纱；所述澳毛的平均细度为17μm，平均长度为80mm；
（2）条染复精梳；
所述纬纱条染时只对赛络菲尔毛纱进行染色，染料采用毛用活性染料，为了保证纱线着色牢度确保纱线染色均匀，助剂采用阿伯格B和醋酸；具体染色工艺采用现有的常规染色工艺；一般采用筒染时染缸50℃起染，一分钟10℃升到100℃保温60分钟，然后降温至80℃后用纯碱做后处理去浮色；
（3）纺纱：混条→头针→二针→三针→四针→粗纱→细纱→自络筒→并线→倍捻→蒸纱→成纱；
所述纬纱在细纱机上由一根赛络菲尔毛纱与一根15D/1F锦纶长丝以10～12间距喂入细纱牵伸区，牵伸后加捻成纱；牵伸张力为2.5倍，细纱机车速为7000～8000转/分钟；
所述赛络菲尔毛纱在自络筒上生产时为保证纱线质量加大了纱线张力和接头张力，自络筒车速为700转/分钟；
所述经纱A由澳毛、绢丝、锦纶和氨纶在并线车上并线合股，并线时氨纶牵伸倍数为3倍，并线车速为450转/分钟；
（4）将经纱和纬纱织造后得到坯布，经纱A和经纱B的排列方式采用4根经纱A和4根经纱B间隔设置；
（5）后整理：将步骤（2）得到的坯布经轧水烘呢、熟修、刷毛、烧毛、湿水、平煮、双煮、烘呢、定型、预缩，得到成品；
所述烧毛步骤的车速为90米/分钟，压力为12mbar，采用一正一反烧毛，直烧；
所述平煮步骤采用平幅状清洗，呢速为60米/分；所述烘呢呢步骤的温度为130℃，上超喂20%，下超喂10%，毛刷超喂15%，呢速为30米/分；所述定型步骤温度为180℃，上超喂20%，下超喂10%，毛刷超喂15%，呢速为15米/分钟；所述轧水烘呢步骤的温度为130℃，上超喂4%，下超喂3%，毛刷超喂3%，轧液中加入柔软剂，采用1浸1轧；所述刷毛步骤采用2正1反；所述双煮步骤在85℃来回煮4次。
本发明所述羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢，按照中华人民共和国纺织行业GB/T26382-2011《精梳毛织品》标准执行，各项指标经国家纺织产品质量监督检验中心（江阴）试验室测试，达到一等品标准要求。
本发明所述羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢，手感爽，呢面立体感强，透气性好，穿着舒适，富有弹性，生产加工工艺特殊，具有优良的品质和服用性能，同时具有独特的呢面效果，具备时尚和休闲的一切特征，是一款既时尚又有美感的男士休闲服饰的理想面料。产品一经推向市场就获得了广大消费者的好评和青睐，取得了良好的社会效益。
实施例二：一种羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，包括以下工艺步骤：
（1）经纱采用经纱A和经纱B，经纱A为75%澳毛、20%绢丝、3.3%锦纶和1.7%氨纶，经纱B为绢丝纱；纬纱为采用15D/1F锦纶长丝与赛络菲尔毛纱纺成的单纱；所述澳毛的平均细度为18μm，平均长度为81mm；
（2）条染复精梳；
所述纬纱条染时只对赛络菲尔毛纱进行染色，染料采用毛用活性染料，为了保证纱线着色牢度确保纱线染色均匀，助剂采用阿伯格B和醋酸；具体染色工艺采用现有的常规染色工艺；一般采用筒染时染缸50℃起染，一分钟10℃升到100℃保温60分钟，然后降温至80℃后用纯碱做后处理去浮色；
（3）纺纱：混条→头针→二针→三针→四针→粗纱→细纱→自络筒→并线→倍捻→蒸纱→成纱；
所述纬纱在细纱机上由一根赛络菲尔毛纱与一根15D/1F锦纶长丝以10～12间距喂入细纱牵伸区，牵伸后加捻成纱；牵伸张力为2.5倍，细纱机车速为8000转/分钟；
所述赛络菲尔毛纱在自络筒上生产时为保证纱线质量加大了纱线张力和接头张力，自络筒车速为700转/分钟；
所述经纱A由澳毛、绢丝、锦纶和氨纶在并线车上并线合股，并线时氨纶牵伸倍数为3倍，并线车速为500转/分钟；
（4）将经纱和纬纱织造后得到坯布，经纱A和经纱B的排列方式采用4根经纱A和4根经纱B间隔设置；
（5）后整理：将步骤（2）得到的坯布经轧水烘呢、熟修、刷毛、烧毛、湿水、平煮、双煮、烘呢、定型、预缩，得到成品；
所述烧毛步骤的车速为100米/分钟，压力为13mbar，采用一正一反烧毛，直烧；
所述平煮步骤采用平幅状清洗，呢速为80米/分；所述烘呢呢步骤的温度为135℃，上超喂20%，下超喂10%，毛刷超喂15%，呢速为40米/分；所述定型步骤温度为190℃，上超喂20%，下超喂10%，毛刷超喂15%，呢速为20米/分钟；所述轧水烘呢步骤的温度为130～135℃，上超喂4%，下超喂3%，毛刷超喂3%，轧液中加入柔软剂，采用1浸1轧；所述刷毛步骤采用2正1反；所述双煮步骤在90℃来回煮4次。
实施例三：一种羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，包括以下工艺步骤：
（1）经纱采用经纱A和经纱B，经纱A为74.5%澳毛、19%绢丝、3%锦纶和3.5%氨纶，经纱B为绢丝纱；纬纱为采用15D/1F锦纶长丝与赛络菲尔毛纱纺成的单纱；所述澳毛的平均细度为17.5μm，平均长度为80.5mm；
（2）条染复精梳；
所述纬纱条染时只对赛络菲尔毛纱进行染色，染料采用毛用活性染料，为了保证纱线着色牢度确保纱线染色均匀，助剂采用阿伯格B和醋酸；具体染色工艺采用现有的常规染色工艺；一般采用筒染时染缸50℃起染，一分钟10℃升到100℃保温60分钟，然后降温至80℃后用纯碱做后处理去浮色；
（3）纺纱：混条→头针→二针→三针→四针→粗纱→细纱→自络筒→并线→倍捻→蒸纱→成纱；
所述纬纱在细纱机上由一根赛络菲尔毛纱与一根15D/1F锦纶长丝以10～12间距喂入细纱牵伸区，牵伸后加捻成纱；牵伸张力为2.5倍，细纱机车速为7500转/分钟；
所述赛络菲尔毛纱在自络筒上生产时为保证纱线质量加大了纱线张力和接头张力，自络筒车速为700转/分钟；
所述经纱A由澳毛、绢丝、锦纶和氨纶在并线车上并线合股，并线时氨纶牵伸倍数为3倍，并线车速为460转/分钟；
（4）将经纱和纬纱织造后得到坯布，经纱A和经纱B的排列方式采用4根经纱A和4根经纱B间隔设置；
（5）后整理：将步骤（2）得到的坯布经轧水烘呢、熟修、刷毛、烧毛、湿水、平煮、双煮、烘呢、定型、预缩，得到成品；
所述烧毛步骤的车速为95米/分钟，压力为12.5mbar，采用一正一反烧毛，直烧；
所述平煮步骤采用平幅状清洗，呢速为70米/分；所述烘呢呢步骤的温度为132℃，上超喂20%，下超喂10%，毛刷超喂15%，呢速为35米/分；所述定型步骤温度为185℃，上超喂20%，下超喂10%，毛刷超喂15%，呢速为16米/分钟；所述轧水烘呢步骤的温度为132℃，上超喂4%，下超喂3%，毛刷超喂3%，轧液中加入柔软剂，采用1浸1轧；所述刷毛步骤采用2正1反；所述双煮步骤在86℃来回煮4次。

Claims (7)

1.一种羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，其特征是，包括以下工艺步骤：
（1）经纱采用经纱A和经纱B，经纱A为74%～75%澳毛、18%～20%绢丝、3～3.3%锦纶和1.7%～5%氨纶，经纱B为绢丝纱；纬纱为采用15D/1F锦纶长丝与赛络菲尔毛纱纺成的单纱；
（2）将经纱和纬纱织造后得到坯布，经纱A和经纱B的排列方式采用4根经纱A和4根经纱B间隔设置；
（3）后整理：将步骤（2）得到的坯布经轧水烘呢、熟修、刷毛、烧毛、湿水、平煮、双煮、烘呢、定型、预缩，得到成品。
2.如权利要求1所述的羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，其特征是：所述澳毛的平均细度为17～18μm，平均长度为80～81mm。
3.如权利要求1所述的羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，其特征是：所述纬纱在细纱机上由一根赛络菲尔毛纱与一根锦纶长丝以10～12间距喂入细纱牵伸区，牵伸后加捻成纱；牵伸张力为2.5倍，细纱机车速为7000～8000转/分钟。
4.如权利要求1所述的羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，其特征是：所述经纱A由澳毛、绢丝、锦纶和氨纶在并线车上并线合股，并线时氨纶牵伸倍数为3倍，并线车速为450～500转/分钟。
5.如权利要求1所述的羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，其特征是：所述纬纱条染时只对赛络菲尔毛纱进行染色。
6.如权利要求1所述的羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，其特征是：所述烧毛步骤的车速为90～100米/分钟，压力为12～13mbar，采用一正一反烧毛，直烧。
7.如权利要求1所述的羊毛绢丝弹力星光呢的制备工艺，其特征是：所述平煮步骤采用平幅状清洗，呢速为60～80米/分；所述烘呢呢步骤的温度为130～135℃，上超喂20%，下超喂10%，毛刷超喂15%，呢速为30～40米/分；所述定型步骤温度为180～190℃，上超喂20%，下超喂10%，毛刷超喂15%，呢速为15～20米/分钟；所述轧水烘呢步骤的温度为130～135℃，上超喂4%，下超喂3%，毛刷超喂3%，轧液中加入柔软剂，采用1浸1轧；所述刷毛步骤采用2正1反；所述双煮步骤在85～90℃来回煮4次。
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