CN105078810A - Plant-based active elastin factor (AEF) capable of improving skin elasticity - Google Patents
Plant-based active elastin factor (AEF) capable of improving skin elasticity Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention relates to a plant-based active elastin factor (AEF) capable of improving skin elasticity, in particular to a skin care product containing the plant-based active elastin factor and used for improving skin elasticity. The plant-based active elastin factor is composed of a dioscorea opposita root extractive, a tremella extractive and an emblic leafflower fruit extractive, and can effectively prevent elastin and collagen from hydrolysis or oxygenolysis; and the emblic leafflower fruit extractive contains emblic leafflower fruit tannin which can be in condensation reaction with protein in a hydrophobic bond and hydrogen bond manner to realize the effects of tightening and converging skin. When the skin care product containing the plant-based active elastin factor is applied to skin, the effect of improving skin elasticity can be realized.
Description
Technical field:
The invention belongs to cosmetic field, relating to a kind of vegetable active elastic force factors A EF (Plant-basedActiveElastinFactor) for improving skin elasticity.Especially a kind of skin care item that can be used for improving skin elasticity containing this vegetable active elastic force factors A EF (Plant-basedActiveElastinFactor) are related to.
Background technology:
Skin elasticity is realized by the elastic fiber be present in dermis of skin and collagen fiber, and elastic fiber and collagen fiber are made up of elastin laminin and collagen protein respectively.Elastic fiber has very low coefficient of elasticity, even if be subject to very little external force extruding just easy modification, and just can be returned to original state easily when this external force disappears.Collagen fiber and elastic fiber all have unique aminoacid composition, form stable cross-linked structure, and this structure cause skin to have the elasticity the same with rubber in long peptide chain.
Certainly, only have the elastic fiber containing elastin laminin and collagen fiber to exist simultaneously, and and if only if when enough elastin laminins and collagen protein exist skin elasticity just can be kept.
Simultaneously, due to function of human body is aging or ultraviolet light, electron radiation etc. to the infringement of skin, cause the reduction of Skin Cell, cause the production declining of elastin laminin and collagen protein and the decomposition of elastin laminin and collagen protein, thus result in the reduction of skin elasticity.In addition, ultraviolet light, electron radiation etc. also can make elastoser and Collagenase express in skin, and make normal elastin laminin and collagen degradation, cause skin elasticity to decline.
About relating to the patent increasing skin elasticity, the skin care compositions (patent 102631308A) that can improve skin texture increase skin elasticity effect such as containing Tremella extract, to skin, there is outstanding moistening effect from the vegetable mucin isolating high solubility of Rhizoma Dioscoreae (DIOSCOREAOPPOSITA), antioxidant effect and the effect (Korean Patent 10-2011-0136261) improving wrinkle.These prior aries relate to the effect suppressing the oxidation of collagen protein or elastin laminin or hydrolysis to realize increasing skin elasticity simply, single according to the independent using function of the material of these prior aries, there is certain limitation to the effect improving skin elasticity, the effect that it is maximum can not be played.
Mucin is that epithelial cell produces and secretes, and has the mucus protein of very high molecular.Mucin, mainly by the chemical barrier of cell aspect, plays Cell protection from the infringement of extracellular material and super fatting agent.Its gene code is expressed as club shaped structure unit, and enriched glycosylation modify.This thickness mucinous real " sugared shell coat " gives its powerful moisture holding capacity, effectively stops the hydrolysis of elastin laminin and collagen protein simultaneously, and this hydrolysis often makes the elastin laminin in skin and collagen content reduce.Mucinous source, comprises the Limax of animal origin, Rhopilema esculenta, and the tuber of the long pubescence Rhizoma Dioscoreae root of plant origin.Limax pituitary extract has been accepted for improving in the wrinkle removing anti-aging skin care product of skin, and the mucin lipidated protein of plant origin and content higher, repairing effect is more excellent, and safer to skin through the vegetable mucin of purification process, through test without anaphylaxis.
Tremella polysaccharide is a kind of revolutionary plant-derived efficient moisture-retention agent and antioxidant, and it has and surmounts hyaluronic moistening effect, is the natural moisture preserving material of unique 1,000,000 molecular weight at present.Meanwhile, it can also significantly improve the activity of horn cell and fibrocyte superoxide dismutase, can suppress the activity of active oxygen in skin, prevent skin aging.It integrates moisture retention, defying age, increase skinfeel three zones, and its main active is different polysaccharide protein nucleic acid complex.Tremella polysaccharide is with α-(1-3) mannose for main chain, its 2 carbon atoms is connected with 2 β-(1-2) two xylose, 1 fucose, and 1 β-mannose and 3 beta-glucuronic acids are the different polysaccharide of side base.Tremella polysaccharide directly or indirectly affects the characteristic of the inner albumen of horny layer or lipid water coke slurry after being absorbed by horny layer.By above approach, keep containing suitable moisture in skin, prevent the oxidation Decomposition of elastin laminin and collagen protein, thus prevent skin aging, maintain healthy beautiful skin.
Fructus Phyllanthi, also known as Yunnan Fructus Canarii albi, its fruit is eaten raw sour-sweet and micro-puckery, and aftertaste is sweet, and therefore named emblic, has another name called wooden ripple (Yunnan Dai Nationality language), Buddhist nunnery Luo Guo etc.Fructus Phyllanthi extract adopts the genuine Fructus Phyllanthi fruit in Yunnan, and the Fructus Phyllanthi extract through purification process contains Fructus Phyllanthi tannin, and tannin is the polyphenol components of a class high polymeric in plant, generally includes Hydrolysable Tannins and condensed tannin.Fructus Phyllanthi tannin mainly Hydrolysable Tannins is main, has very outstanding antioxidant activity.Meanwhile, tannin and protein are with the mode such as hydrophobic bond and hydrogen bond generation condensation reaction, and collapsible enlarged pores, strengthens skin elasticity, reduces wrinkle, the fine and smooth outward appearance of display skin etc.
There is not yet in the industry the skin care item combinationally using vegetable mucin, tremella polysaccharide and Fructus Phyllanthi extract at present.
Summary of the invention:
The object of the invention is to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, a kind of vegetable active elastic force factors A EF (Plant-basedActiveElastinFactor) containing improving skin elasticity is provided, this vegetable active elastic force factors A EF (Plant-basedActiveElastinFactor) is made up of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Fructus Phyllanthi extract and Tremella extract, make an addition in skin care item and can provide enhancing elasticity for skin, reduce wrinkle, Musk Extract, the functions such as the fine and smooth outward appearance of display skin.
Above-mentioned purpose of the present invention is achieved by the following technical programs:
The skin care item containing the vegetable active elastic force factors A EF (Plant-basedActiveElastinFactor) that can improve skin elasticity of the present invention, comprise following component by weight ratio:
Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, with the tuber weighing scale of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root, 1 ~ 30 part; Tremella extract, with Tremella weighing scale 0.01 ~ 25 part; Fructus Phyllanthi extract, with Fructus Phyllanthi fruit weighing scale, 1 ~ 15 part; Vegetable oil, 0.001 ~ 10 part; High fatty alcohol, 1 ~ 5 part; Hydrogenated vegetable oil, 0.001 ~ 3 part; Glyceryl stearate, 0.1 ~ 5 part; Phytosterol, 0.001 ~ 1 part; And tocopherol, 0.001 ~ 1 part.In the one-tenth of these skin care item is grouped into, the proportioning of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Fructus Phyllanthi extract and Tremella extract is weight according to raw material and fixed.
According to the further feature of skin care item of the present invention, described Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract is prepared by the following method: squeezed the juice by the tuber of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root, filter, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, extracting solution and precipitate with ethanol after evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, make ethanol content reach 65 ~ 75%.Again through concentrating under reduced pressure, filtration obtains.
Preferably, in the preparation method of described Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, the residue that filtration obtains and cellulosic decoct with water extraction 2 ~ 3 hours, extract 3 ~ 4 times, merge extractive liquid.
Preferably, in the preparation method of described Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, working concentration is that 95% ethanol carries out precipitate with ethanol.
According to the further feature of skin care item of the present invention, described Tremella extract is prepared by the following method: after being pulverized by Tremella, adds ethanol water and extracts, and extracting solution concentrates and filter gained after butanediol dilution.
Preferably, in the preparation method of described Tremella extract, in ethanol water, the mass fraction of ethanol is 70%; The Tremella of every 1 part of weight adds the ethanol water of 5-9 parts of weight.
Preferably, in described preparation method, after adding ethanol water, heating and refluxing extraction 2 ~ 3 hours, extracts 3 ~ 4 times, merge extractive liquid.
According to the further feature of skin care item of the present invention, described Fructus Phyllanthi extract is prepared by the following method: squeezed the juice by fresh fruit of fructus phyllanthi, filter, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, extracting solution and precipitate with ethanol after evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, make ethanol content reach 65 ~ 75%.Again through concentrating under reduced pressure, filtration obtains.
Preferably, in the preparation method of described Fructus Phyllanthi extract, the residue that filtration obtains and cellulosic decoct with water extraction 2 ~ 3 hours, extract 3 ~ 4 times, merge extractive liquid.
Preferably, in the preparation method of described Fructus Phyllanthi extract, working concentration is that 95% ethanol carries out precipitate with ethanol.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract obtains by the following method: squeezed the juice by the tuber of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65 ~ 75% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Tremella extract obtains by the following method: cross 10 eye mesh screens after being pulverized by Tremella, obtain the sample that grain diameter is 0.5 ~ 2.0mm, carry out mixing (ethanol mass fraction is 70%) with the ratio of the ethanol-water solution of 5 ~ 9 parts of weight in the Tremella fine powder that sieves of 1 part of weight, (temperature is between 100 ~ 115 DEG C) is heated on electric jacket, reflux, extract, 2 ~ 3 hours, extracts 3 ~ 4 times.Collect the extracting solution of each time, use Rotary Evaporators and vacuum pump using circulatory water to carry out concentrating under reduced pressure for basic device, obtain concentrated solution.Concentrated solution take butanediol as solvent, dilutes according to the ratio of 1: 1, and diluent leaves standstill 24 hours, and sucking filtration, obtains Tremella extract.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Fructus Phyllanthi extract obtains by the following method: squeezed the juice by fresh fruit of fructus phyllanthi, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65 ~ 75% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Fructus Phyllanthi extract.
Compared with prior art, skin care item provided by the present invention have the hydrolysis or oxidation Decomposition that effectively stop elastin laminin and collagen protein, simultaneously, in compositions, Fructus Phyllanthi tannin can also with protein with the mode such as hydrophobic bond and hydrogen bond generation condensation reaction, thus to human body skin energy Musk Extract, strengthen elasticity, reduce wrinkle, the fine and smooth outward appearance of display skin.Specifically, following aspect is comprised:
First, protect Skin Cell from the infringement of extracellular material by the vegetable mucin in Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, give the moisture holding capacity that skin is powerful, effectively stop the hydrolysis of elastin laminin and collagen protein simultaneously.After the purified process of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract of the present invention, purity and the content of vegetable mucin are higher, and mucin is mainly by the chemical barrier of cell aspect, play Cell protection from the infringement of extracellular material and super fatting agent.Its gene code is expressed as club shaped structure unit, and enriched glycosylation modify.This thickness mucinous real " sugared shell coat " gives its powerful moisture holding capacity, effectively stops the hydrolysis of elastin laminin and collagen protein simultaneously, and this hydrolysis often makes the elastin laminin in skin and collagen content reduce.
Secondly, the oxidation Decomposition of elastin laminin and collagen protein is prevented by the tremella polysaccharide in Tremella extract.
After the purified process of Tremella extract of the present invention, purity and the content of tremella polysaccharide are higher, be a kind of revolutionary plant-derived efficient moisture-retention agent and antioxidant, it has and surmounts hyaluronic moistening effect, is the natural moisture preserving material of unique 1,000,000 molecular weight at present.Meanwhile, it can also significantly improve the activity of horn cell and fibrocyte superoxide dismutase, can suppress the activity of active oxygen in skin, prevent skin aging.It integrates moisture retention, defying age, increase skinfeel three zones, and its main active is different polysaccharide protein nucleic acid complex.Tremella polysaccharide is with α-(1-3) mannose for main chain, its 2 carbon atoms is connected with 2 β-(1-2) two xylose, 1 fucose, and 1 β-mannose and 3 beta-glucuronic acids are the different polysaccharide of side base.Tremella polysaccharide directly or indirectly affects the characteristic of the inner albumen of horny layer or lipid water coke slurry after being absorbed by horny layer.By above approach, keep containing suitable moisture in skin, prevent the oxidation Decomposition of elastin laminin and collagen protein, thus prevent skin aging, maintain healthy beautiful skin.
Again, by the Fructus Phyllanthi tannin in Fructus Phyllanthi extract and protein with the mode such as hydrophobic bond and hydrogen bond generation condensation reaction, the compactness of skin can be promoted, thus strengthen the elasticity of skin.
Sweet seed extract of the present invention adopts the genuine Fructus Phyllanthi fruit in Yunnan, and after purification process, containing Fructus Phyllanthi tannin, tannin is the polyphenol components of a class high polymeric in plant, has very outstanding antioxidant activity.Meanwhile, tannin and protein are with the mode such as hydrophobic bond and hydrogen bond generation condensation reaction, and collapsible enlarged pores, strengthens skin elasticity, reduces wrinkle, the fine and smooth outward appearance of display skin etc.
Finally, one group of compositions with skin affinity is provided, they comprise the compositions such as vegetable oil, high fatty alcohol, hydrogenated vegetable oil, glyceryl stearate, phytosterol and tocopherol, when said composition is on skin, show soft skin feel, and can promote that skin is to the absorption of above-mentioned active component.
Except these components above-mentioned, these skin care item can also add the common wetting agents such as Butyrospermum parkii fruit fat, tocopherol acetas, trimethyl glycine, hyaluronate sodium, and the usual ingredients in other skin care item.Skin care item that the material basis of concrete interpolation will be prepared and determining.The skin care item type that can be used for preparing is extensive, comprises cold cream frost, emulsion, eye protection elite dew, clean product, astringent etc.
Detailed description of the invention
The skin care item containing the vegetable active elastic force factors A EF (Plant-basedActiveElastinFactor) that can improve skin elasticity provided by the invention, all comprise following component by weight ratio:
Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, with the tuber weighing scale of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root, 1 ~ 30 part; Tremella extract, with Tremella weighing scale 0.01 ~ 25 part; Fructus Phyllanthi extract, with Fructus Phyllanthi fruit weighing scale, 1 ~ 15 part; Vegetable oil, 0.001 ~ 10 part; High fatty alcohol, 1 ~ 5 part; Hydrogenated vegetable oil, 0.001 ~ 3 part; Glyceryl stearate, 0.1 ~ 5 part; Phytosterol, 0.001 ~ 1 part; And tocopherol, 0.001 ~ 1 part.In the one-tenth of these skin care item is grouped into, the proportioning of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Fructus Phyllanthi extract and Tremella extract is weight according to raw material and fixed.And vegetable oil, high fatty alcohol, hydrogenated vegetable oil, glyceryl stearate, phytosterol and tocopherol are all the existing procucts on market, at aforementioned proportion latitude of formulation after can buying respectively.
Technical scheme of the present invention is set forth further below by way of concrete case study on implementation.
Embodiment 1: protective skin cream 1
The preparation of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract:
The tuber of the Rhizoma Dioscoreae root of 1 part of weight is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95%7 alcohol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract.
The preparation of Tremella extract:
The mistake 10 mesh sieve Tremella fine powder of 1 part of weight is carried out mixing (ethanol mass fraction is 70%) with the ratio of the ethanol-water solution of 5 parts of weight, (temperature is between 100 ~ 115 DEG C) is heated on electric jacket, reflux, extract, 3 hours, extracts 4 times.Collect the extracting solution of each time, be evaporated to 1/3rd of total extracting liquid volume.The concentrated solution obtained, take butanediol as solvent, dilutes according to the ratio of 1: 1, and diluent leaves standstill 24 hours, and sucking filtration, obtains required Tremella extract.
The preparation of Fructus Phyllanthi extract:
1 part of weight fresh fruit of fructus phyllanthi is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Fructus Phyllanthi extract.
The preparation of protective skin cream 1:
Active component: above-mentioned Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Tremella extract, Fructus Phyllanthi extract are mixed with butanediol (weight 5 parts), glycerol (weight 5 parts), hyaluronate sodium (weight 0.03 part) and trimethyl glycine (weight 1.5 parts), can suitably add water in this operating process, as water miscible active component; Above-mentioned vegetable oil (weight 0.3 part), high fatty alcohol (weight 1 part), hydrogenated vegetable oil (weight 0.5 part), glyceryl stearate (weight 1 part), phytosterol (weight 0.3 part) and tocopherol (weight 0.01 part) are mixed with Butyrospermum parkii fruit fat (weight 2 parts), tocopherol acetas (weight 2 parts), can suitable heating for dissolving in this process, as oil-soluble active component.
Adjuvant: oil phase has caprylic/capric triglyceride (weight 3 parts), Cyclomethicone (weight 5 parts), glyceryl stearate (weight 3 parts), high fatty alcohol (weight 2 parts), caprylyl methicone (weight 2 parts), methyl hydroxybenzoate (weight 0.2 part) and propyl hydroxybenzoate (weight 0.1 part); Aqueous phase has 2-(Acryloyloxy)ethanol/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers (weight 0.3 part), acrylic acid (ester) class/C10-30 alkylol acrylamide acid esters cross linked polymer (weight 0.2 part), EDETATE SODIUM (weight 0.03 part), and it is 100 parts that deionized water mends ad pond om.
Each adjuvant is heated to 78 DEG C respectively, mix and blend, is placed in emulsator fully emulsified, insulated and stirred 20 minutes, cooling.Active component is added when temperature is down to 45 DEG C, and the auxiliary element such as aminomethyl propanol (weight 0.12 part), phenoxyethanol (weight 0.75 part), essence, stir.
Embodiment 2: protective skin cream 2
The preparation of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract:
The tuber of the Rhizoma Dioscoreae root of 1 part of weight is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract.
The preparation of Tremella extract:
The mistake 10 mesh sieve Tremella fine powder of 1 part of weight is carried out mixing (ethanol mass fraction is 70%) with the ratio of the ethanol-water solution of 5 parts of weight, (temperature is between 100 ~ 115 DEG C) is heated on electric jacket, reflux, extract, 3 hours, extracts 4 times.Collect the extracting solution of each time, be evaporated to 1/3rd of total extracting liquid volume.The concentrated solution obtained, take butanediol as solvent, dilutes according to the ratio of 1: 1, and diluent leaves standstill 24 hours, and sucking filtration, obtains required Tremella extract.
The preparation of Fructus Phyllanthi extract:
1 part of weight fresh fruit of fructus phyllanthi is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Fructus Phyllanthi extract.
The preparation of protective skin cream 2:
Active component: above-mentioned Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Tremella extract, Fructus Phyllanthi extract are mixed with butanediol (weight 5 parts), glycerol (weight 5 parts), hyaluronate sodium (weight 0.01 part) and trimethyl glycine (weight 1.5 parts), can suitably add water in this operating process, as water miscible active component; Above-mentioned vegetable oil (weight 0.3 part), high fatty alcohol (weight 1 part), hydrogenated vegetable oil (weight 0.5 part), glyceryl stearate (weight 1 part), phytosterol (weight 0.3 part) and tocopherol (weight 0.01 part) are mixed with Butyrospermum parkii fruit fat (weight 2 parts), tocopherol acetas (weight 0.5 part), can suitable heating for dissolving in this process, as oil-soluble active component.
Adjuvant: oil phase has polyglycereol-3 methyl distearate (weight 2.3 parts), glyceryl stearate (weight 2 parts), caprylic/capric triglyceride (weight 2.7 parts), Jojoba seed oil (weight 2.5 parts), Cyclomethicone (weight 4.5 parts), methyl hydroxybenzoate (weight 0.18 part) and propyl hydroxybenzoate (weight 0.09 part); Aqueous phase has carbomer (weight 0.1 part), AVC (weight 0.1 part), allantoin (weight 0.2 part) and EDETATE SODIUM (weight 0.03 part), and it is 100 parts that deionized water mends ad pond om.
Each adjuvant is heated to 78 DEG C respectively, mix and blend, is placed in emulsator fully emulsified, insulated and stirred 20 minutes, cooling.Active component is added when temperature is down to 45 DEG C, and the auxiliary element such as aminomethyl propanol (weight 0.048 part), phenoxyethanol (weight 0.75 part), essence, stir.
Embodiment 3: moisturizer
The preparation of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract:
The tuber of the Rhizoma Dioscoreae root of 1 part of weight is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract.
The preparation of Tremella extract:
The mistake 10 mesh sieve Tremella fine powder of 1 part of weight is carried out mixing (ethanol mass fraction is 70%) with the ratio of the ethanol-water solution of 5 parts of weight, (temperature is between 100 ~ 115 DEG C) is heated on electric jacket, reflux, extract, 3 hours, extracts 4 times.Collect the extracting solution of each time, be evaporated to 1/3rd of total extracting liquid volume.The concentrated solution obtained, take butanediol as solvent, dilutes according to the ratio of 1: 1, and diluent leaves standstill 24 hours, and sucking filtration, obtains required Tremella extract.
The preparation of Fructus Phyllanthi extract:
1 part of weight fresh fruit of fructus phyllanthi is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95%7 alcohol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Fructus Phyllanthi extract.
The preparation of moisturizer:
Active component: above-mentioned Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Tremella extract, Fructus Phyllanthi extract are mixed with butanediol (weight 5 parts), glycerol (weight 5 parts), hyaluronate sodium (weight 0.05 part) and trimethyl glycine (weight 1 part), can suitably add water in this operating process, as water miscible active component; Above-mentioned vegetable oil (weight 0.3 part), high fatty alcohol (weight 1 part), hydrogenated vegetable oil (weight 0.5 part), glyceryl stearate (weight 1 part), phytosterol (weight 0.3 part) and tocopherol (weight 0.01 part) are mixed with Butyrospermum parkii fruit fat (weight 2 parts), tocopherol acetas (weight 0.5 part), can suitable heating for dissolving in this process, as oil-soluble active component.
Adjuvant: oil phase has polyglycereol-3 methyl distearate (weight 2 parts), glyceryl stearate (weight 1 part), ethylhexyl palmitate (weight 3 parts), hydrogenated polydecene (weight 2 parts), Jojoba seed oil (weight 2 parts), methyl hydroxybenzoate (weight 0.18 part) and propyl hydroxybenzoate (weight 0.09 part); Aqueous phase has 2-(Acryloyloxy)ethanol/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers (weight 0.2 part), allantoin (weight 0.2 part) and EDETATE SODIUM (weight 0.03 part), and it is 100 parts that deionized water mends ad pond om.
Each adjuvant is heated to 78 DEG C respectively, mix and blend, is placed in emulsator fully emulsified, insulated and stirred 20 minutes, cooling.Active component is added when temperature is down to 45 DEG C, and the auxiliary element such as toluene oxyethanol (weight 0.73 part), essence, stir.
Embodiment 4: clean skin Gel mile
The preparation of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract:
The tuber of the Rhizoma Dioscoreae root of 1 part of weight is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract.
The preparation of Tremella extract:
The mistake 10 mesh sieve Tremella fine powder of 1 part of weight is carried out mixing (ethanol mass fraction is 70%) with the ratio of the ethanol-water solution of 5 parts of weight, (temperature is between 100 ~ 115 DEG C) is heated on electric jacket, reflux, extract, 2 hours, extracts 3 times.Collect the extracting solution of each time, be evaporated to 1/3rd of total extracting liquid volume.The concentrated solution obtained, take butanediol as solvent, dilutes according to the ratio of 1: 1, and diluent leaves standstill 24 hours, and sucking filtration, obtains required Tremella extract.
The preparation of Fructus Phyllanthi extract:
1 part of weight fresh fruit of fructus phyllanthi is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Fructus Phyllanthi extract.
The preparation of clean skin Gel mile:
Active component: above-mentioned Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Tremella extract, Fructus Phyllanthi extract are mixed with olive oil PEG-7 esters (weight 1 part) and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate (weight 1 part), can suitably add water in this operating process, as water miscible active component.
Adjuvant: acrylic acid (ester) analog copolymer (weight 3 parts), lauroylamidopropyl betaine (weight 10 parts), coconut oleoyl amine DEA (weight 2 parts), sodium laureth sulfate (weight 8 parts), methyl hydroxybenzoate (weight 0.2 part), propyl hydroxybenzoate (weight 0.1 part), EDETATE SODIUM (weight 0.1 part), it is 100 parts that deionized water mends ad pond om.
By each adjuvant mixing and stirring, be heated to 78 DEG C, insulated and stirred 20 minutes, cooling.When temperature is down to 45 DEG C, add active component, and the auxiliary element such as aminomethyl propanol (weight 0.024 part), phenoxyethanol (weight 0.75 part), essence, stir.
Embodiment 5: moisturizing eye Gel mile
The preparation of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract:
The tuber of the Rhizoma Dioscoreae root of 1 part of weight is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract.
The preparation of Tremella extract:
The mistake 10 mesh sieve Tremella fine powder of 1 part of weight is carried out mixing (ethanol mass fraction is 70%) with the ratio of the ethanol-water solution of 5 parts of weight, (temperature is between 100 ~ 115 DEG C) is heated on electric jacket, reflux, extract, 2 hours, extracts 3 times.Collect the extracting solution of each time, be evaporated to 1/3rd of total extracting liquid volume.The concentrated solution obtained, take butanediol as solvent, dilutes according to the ratio of 1: 1, and diluent leaves standstill 24 hours, and sucking filtration, obtains required Tremella extract.
The preparation of Fructus Phyllanthi extract:
1 part of weight fresh fruit of fructus phyllanthi is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Fructus Phyllanthi extract.
The preparation that moisturizing eye is Gel mile:
Active component: above-mentioned Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Tremella extract, Fructus Phyllanthi extract are mixed with butanediol (weight 5 parts), hyaluronate sodium (weight 0.05 part), can suitably add water in this operating process, as water miscible active component.
Adjuvant: ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/behenyl alcohol polyethers-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer (weight 0.7 part), allantoin (weight 0.2 part), glycerol (weight 8 parts), methyl hydroxybenzoate (weight 0.15 part), EDETATE SODIUM (weight 0.05 part), it is 100 parts that deionized water mends ad pond om.
By each adjuvant mixing and stirring, be heated to 78 DEG C, insulated and stirred 20 minutes, cooling.When temperature is down to 45 DEG C, add active component, and the auxiliary element such as phenoxyethanol (weight 0.75 part), essence, stir.
Embodiment 6: moisturizing astringent
The preparation of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract:
The tuber of the Rhizoma Dioscoreae root of 1 part of weight is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add/enter 95%7 alcohol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract.
The preparation of Tremella extract:
The mistake 10 mesh sieve Tremella fine powder of 1 part of weight is carried out mixing (ethanol mass fraction is 70%) with the ratio of the ethanol-water solution of 5 parts of weight, (temperature is between 100 ~ 115 DEG C) is heated on electric jacket, reflux, extract, 3 hours, extracts 4 times.Collect the extracting solution of each time, be evaporated to 1/3rd of total extracting liquid volume.The concentrated solution obtained, take butanediol as solvent, dilutes according to the ratio of 1: 1, and diluent leaves standstill 24 hours, and sucking filtration, obtains required Tremella extract.
The preparation of Fructus Phyllanthi extract:
1 part of weight fresh fruit of fructus phyllanthi is squeezed the juice, filters, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, volume is to 1/3rd of total amount of squeezing the juice.After concentrated solution lets cool, add 95% ethanol while stirring, until it is 65% that alcohol meter records ethanol content, airtight cold preservation 48 hours, filter, filtrate reclaims ethanol through concentrating under reduced pressure, and gained refined liquid adds phenoxyethanol in 1% ratio, obtains Fructus Phyllanthi extract.
The preparation of moisturizing astringent:
Active component: above-mentioned Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Tremella extract, Fructus Phyllanthi extract are mixed with butanediol (weight 5 parts), hyaluronate sodium (weight 0.02 part), can suitably add water in this operating process, as water miscible active component.
Adjuvant: ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/behenyl alcohol polyethers-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer (weight 0.2 part), allantoin (weight 0.2 part), glycerol (weight 8 parts), methyl hydroxybenzoate (weight 0.15 part), EDETATE SODIUM (weight 0.05 part), it is 100 parts that deionized water mends ad pond om.
By each adjuvant mixing and stirring, be heated to 78 DEG C, insulated and stirred 20 minutes, cooling.When temperature is down to 45 DEG C, add active component, and the auxiliary element such as phenoxyethanol (weight 0.75 part), essence, stir.
Embodiment 7: common protective skin cream 1
The preparation of common protective skin cream 1:
Except lacking except Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Tremella extract and Fructus Phyllanthi extract in batching, the other the same as in Example 1.
Embodiment 8: common protective skin cream 2
The preparation of common protective skin cream 2:
Except lacking except Tremella extract and Fructus Phyllanthi extract in batching, the other the same as in Example 2.
Embodiment 9: common moisturizer
The preparation of common moisturizer:
Except lacking except Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract and Fructus Phyllanthi extract in batching, the other the same as in Example 3.
Embodiment 10: common clean skin Gel mile
The preparation of common clean skin Gel mile:
Except lacking except Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract and Tremella extract in batching, the other the same as in Example 4.
Embodiment 11: common moisturizing eye Gel mile
The preparation of common moisturizing eye Gel mile:
Except lacking except Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract in batching, the other the same as in Example 5.
Embodiment 12: common moisturizing astringent 1
The preparation of common moisturizing astringent 1:
Except lacking except Tremella extract in batching, other is with embodiment 6.
Embodiment 13: common moisturizing astringent 2
The preparation of common moisturizing astringent 2:
Except lacking except Fructus Phyllanthi extract in batching, other is with embodiment 6.
Embodiment 14: the elastic test of human body skin:
Choose 20 ~ 35 years old tested volunteer of women 18, wherein less than 25 years old 6, be numbered 1 ~ 6, as First Year age group experimenter; 25 ~ 30 years old 6, be numbered 7 ~ 12, as Second Year age group experimenter; 30 ~ 35 years old 6, be numbered 13 ~ 18, as the 3rd age group experimenter.Choose two regions of face's symmetry, respectively as the test zone of matched group and test group, the protective skin cream 1 of test group prepared by embodiment 1, the common protective skin cream 1 prepared by matched group embodiment 7, the two does same test under the same conditions.The cycle of flexibility test is 28 days, and every day, interval was tested for 30 minutes after smearing sample.
Skin elasticity is tested:
Suction and stretching principle is adopted to test, produce a constant negative pressure (450mbar) by skin inspiration fc-specific test FC probe at tested skin surface, the skin degree of depth be sucked in test probe is recorded by a contactless optic testing system.Emitter and the receptor of light is comprised in test probe, the ratio (ratio of utilizing emitted light and reception light) of light is directly proportional with the degree of depth being inhaled into skin, so just obtain length and the relation curve of time that a skin is stretched, then determined the elastic performance of skin by MPA software analysis.
Skin elasticity test is done once every day, every day, interval was tested for 30 minutes after smearing sample, test period is 28 days, experimenter cleans skin of face, after sitting quietly in constant environment 30 minutes, skinanalysis apparatus (German CK, CutometerMPA580) is used to carry out the measurement of recipient site blank value.According to the facial zone subregion of test group and matched group, protective skin cream 1 prepared by the embodiment 1 of smearing equivalent respectively at cheek antimere and common protective skin cream 1 prepared by embodiment 7, smear the skin elasticity that sample room tested two regions respectively after 30 minutes, equal conditions tests 28 days.Elasticity measurement value (the ElasticityMeasurementValue of result by setting of skin elasticity, EMV) represent, namely skin stretch amount, record the skin elasticity of three groups of experimenters in test group and matched group region, record the test data in whole cycle, and calculate skin elasticity increment rate.Each test data is deducted the change that its blank value is this period EMV value, then divided by blank value is
Draw the increment rate of EMV value.The result of skin elasticity test is represented by skin elasticity increment rate.
Skin elasticity increment rate computing formula is:
Skin elasticity increment rate %=(EMVt-EMVO)/EMVO × 100%
EMVO---smear front skin EMV
EMVt---smear rear t period skin EMV
The result of the test of First Year age group skin elasticity increment rate is as follows:
The result of the test of Second Year age group skin elasticity increment rate is as follows:
The result of the test of the 3rd age group skin elasticity increment rate is as follows:
According to above test data, draw following result of the test:
1. the trial zone of skin and check plot are obtained for the increase of skin elasticity, and result display trial zone is apparently higher than check plot.Describe and use the skin elasticity in the region of the protective skin cream 1 adding the vegetable active elastic force factor be made up of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Tremella extract and Fructus Phyllanthi extract obviously higher than the skin elasticity in the region of not adding this vegetable active elastic force factor.
2. can be found out by three groups of result of the tests, with advancing age, the elasticity of skin increases degree and also weakens gradually, is also consistent with practical situation.
In addition, according to above-mentioned skin elasticity method of testing, according to the protective skin cream 2 prepared by embodiment 2 and the common protective skin cream 2 prepared by embodiment 8 as test and contrast, moisturizer prepared by embodiment 3 and the common moisturizer prepared by embodiment 9 are as test and contrast, clean skin Gel mile prepared by embodiment 4 is carried out facial cleansing with common clean skin Gel mile prepared by embodiment 10 as test and contrast, moisturizing eye prepared by embodiment 5 Gel mile and common moisturizing eye Gel mile prepared by embodiment 11 are as test and contrast, moisturizing astringent prepared by embodiment 6 and the common moisturizing astringent 1 prepared by embodiment 12 are as test and contrast, moisturizing astringent prepared by embodiment 6 and the common moisturizing astringent 2 prepared by embodiment 13 are as test and contrast, carry out the test of skin elasticity increment rate change, the result obtained is: containing Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, the skin care item of the vegetable active elastic force factor of Tremella extract and Fructus Phyllanthi extract are than containing Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, one or both skin care item in Tremella extract and Fructus Phyllanthi extract three kinds of active component are all far better to the improvement of skin elasticity.The effective combination describing this three be used alone than it or both composite to the improvement effect of skin elasticity be all eager to excel many.And then prove that the improvement being made up of vegetable active elastic force factor pair skin elasticity Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, Tremella extract and Fructus Phyllanthi extract is useful, be efficient.
Claims (10)
1. contain the skin care item of the vegetable active elastic force factor improving skin elasticity, it is characterized in that, join by weight
Than comprising following component:
Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, with the tuber weighing scale of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root, 1 ~ 30 part;
Tremella extract, with Tremella weighing scale 0.01 ~ 25 part;
Fructus Phyllanthi extract, with Fructus Phyllanthi fruit weighing scale, 1 ~ 15 part;
Vegetable oil, 0.001 ~ 10 part;
High fatty alcohol, 1 ~ 5 part;
Hydrogenated vegetable oil, 0.001 ~ 3 part;
Glyceryl stearate, 0.1 ~ 5 part;
Phytosterol, 0.001 ~ 1 part;
Tocopherol, 0.001 ~ 1 part.
2. skin care item according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, described Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract is prepared by the following method: squeezed the juice by the tuber of Rhizoma Dioscoreae root, filter, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and precipitate with ethanol after evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, make ethanol content reach 65 ~ 75%.Again through concentrating under reduced pressure, filtration obtains.
3. skin care item according to claim 2, is characterized in that: in the preparation method of described Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, and working concentration is that 95% ethanol carries out precipitate with ethanol.
4. skin care item according to claim 2, is characterized in that: in the preparation method of described Rhizoma Dioscoreae root extract, and the residue that filtration obtains and cellulosic decoct with water extraction 2 ~ 3 hours, extract 3 ~ 4 times, merge extractive liquid.
5. skin care item according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described Tremella extract is prepared by the following method: after being pulverized by Tremella, add ethanol water and extract, and extracting solution concentrates and filter gained after butanediol dilution.
6. skin care item according to claim 5, is characterized in that: in the preparation method of described Tremella extract, and in ethanol water, the mass fraction of ethanol is 70%; The Tremella of every 1 part of weight adds the ethanol water of 5-9 parts of weight.
7. skin care item according to claim 5, is characterized in that: in described preparation method, after adding ethanol water, heating and refluxing extraction 2 ~ 3 hours, extract 2 ~ 4 times, merge extractive liquid.
8. skin care item according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, described Fructus Phyllanthi extract is prepared by the following method: squeezed the juice by fresh fruit of fructus phyllanthi, filter, must squeeze the juice, residue and cellulosic, residue and cellulosic decoct with water extraction, and extracting solution and precipitate with ethanol after evaporation and concentration of squeezing the juice, make ethanol content reach 65 ~ 75%.Again through concentrating under reduced pressure, filtration obtains.
9. skin care item according to claim 2, is characterized in that: in the preparation method of described Fructus Phyllanthi extract, and working concentration is that 95% ethanol carries out precipitate with ethanol.
10. skin care item according to claim 2, is characterized in that: in the preparation method of described Fructus Phyllanthi extract, and the residue that filtration obtains and cellulosic decoct with water extraction 2 ~ 3 hours, extract 3 ~ 4 times, merge extractive liquid.
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