CN105073090A - 半永久性头发拉直组合物和方法 - Google Patents
半永久性头发拉直组合物和方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN105073090A CN105073090A CN201480019246.1A CN201480019246A CN105073090A CN 105073090 A CN105073090 A CN 105073090A CN 201480019246 A CN201480019246 A CN 201480019246A CN 105073090 A CN105073090 A CN 105073090A
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
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Abstract
公开了将头发拉直的组合物和方法。该方法包括将角蛋白纤维用包含热活化剂的组合物涂覆,和使涂覆的角蛋白纤维与温度为至少185℃的加热装置接触足够的时间以将角蛋白纤维改性。热活化剂包含5或6元环中含有2个选自氮和氧的杂原子的杂环化合物,例如环状碳酸亚烷基酯。
Description
背景
示例实施方案涉及通过施用热将头发拉直的方法,和可通过施加热而活化的组合物,所述组合物包含5或6元环中含有2个选自氮和氧的杂原子的杂环化合物,例如环状碳酸亚烷基酯。
各种方法可用于头发的半永久和永久性拉直,其可使头发对几次洗涤而言保持改良的状态。许多永久性处理方法使用苛性化学品,所述苛性化学品可能对执行和接受处理的那些是危险的或者释放不愉悦的气味。这些方法中的一些基于存在于角蛋白中的胱氨酸二硫共价键的分裂。在一种方法中,二硫键首先用还原剂打破。然后施用固定剂,例如过氧化氢,同时使头发在张力下以不同的排列重构二硫键。过氧化物可导致对头发和头皮的损害。其它方法使用氢氧化物碱,其在两阶段方法中,在第一步骤中使用氢氧离子并在第二步骤中使用硫醇基团而用羊毛硫氨酸键(-CH2-S-CH2-)代替二硫键(-CH2-S-S-CH2-)。氢氧化物以相当高的浓度使用并且可导致头皮灼伤,并且刺激或损害眼睛和鼻子。硫醇使头发具有不愉悦的气味并可导致头发纤维降解。
半永久方法使用交联剂以在头发加热时形成键。甲醛例如作为组合物的成分或者作为在头发加热时形成的反应产物用于许多商业拉直产品中。然而,它可导致皮肤、眼睛和肺的过敏反应,可导致眼睛的严重损害并引起其它健康风险。甲醛在头发拉直组合物中的使用在一些国家是不鼓励或禁止的,但由于其效力,其仍然广泛使用。还提出了包含变性剂如脲的松弛组合物。然而,尽管脲比氢氧化物基组合物的腐蚀性更小,但它可在用于热头发拉直的高温下分解成氨和有毒的异氰酸。
简述
根据示例实施方案的一个方面,拉直头发的方法包括将角蛋白纤维用包含热活化剂的组合物涂覆,和使涂覆的角蛋白纤维与温度为至少185℃的加热装置接触足够的时间以改良角蛋白纤维。热活化剂具有结构(I)的通式:
其中:
A选自N和O;
R和R’相互独立地选自H、CH3、CH2CH3和CH2OH;
X和Y相互独立地选自H和烷基;且
n=0或1。
另一方面,用于将头发拉直的组合物包含:溶剂和至少15重量%热活化剂,所述热活化剂具有结构(I)的通式:
其中:
A选自N和O;
R和R’相互独立地选自H、CH3、CH2CH3和CH2OH;
X和Y相互独立地选自H和烷基;且
n=0或1;和
阳离子表面活性剂和流变改进剂中的至少一种,
所述组合物具有小于7.5的pH和至少400cPs的粘度。
详述
示例实施方案的各方面涉及半永久头发拉直组合物和使用方法。示例组合物包含可以以总计为组合物的至多95重量%或至多70重量%存在的至少一种热活化剂,并且进一步包含热活化剂可溶于或分散于其中的溶剂/稀释剂。“热活化”意指该试剂可通过热(如在头发拉直方法中)活化,但该术语不意欲认为限制组合物中该试剂的操作模式。组合物可以为液体、霜、摩丝、凝胶、喷雾等的形式。
另一方面,将角蛋白纤维,例如人类头发拉直的方法包括使角蛋白纤维与示例组合物接触以涂覆纤维,保持角蛋白纤维与组合物接触足够的时间以在将纤维加热时进行拉直,和任选将纤维干燥以除去至少一些溶剂。使涂有组合物的角蛋白纤维与具有185-230℃的温度的加热装置,例如直发器(平烙铁flatiron)的表面接触足够的时间以例如通过达到玻璃化转变温度而使角蛋白纤维松弛,所述玻璃化转变温度取决于含湿量一定程度地变化。松弛通常导致(如在将一束卷曲纤维从载体上悬垂时所测量)角蛋白纤维的平均长度增加至少5%或至少10%,其可经几次洗发处理(涉及洗发和将头发干燥),例如至少10或至少20次洗涤保持。示例方法为半永久的,即随着时间过去,拉直的纤维开始恢复其初始卷曲状态。尽管可使用该方法形成非常直的头发,它也可用于产生半永久烫的方法中。
半永久头发拉直组合物和方法中所用热活化剂为具有显示为结构(I)的通式的杂环化合物:
其中:
A选自N(氮)和O(氧);
R和R’相互独立地选自H、CH3、CH2CH3和CH2OH;
X和Y相互独立地选自H和烷基,例如C1-C6或C1-C3烷基,例如CH3;且
n=0或1。
在一个实施方案中,A=O。该结构因此表示碳酸亚烷基酯。
在一个实施方案中,R和R’中的至少一个=H。在另一实施方案中,R和R’都=H
在一个实施方案中,n=0,即结构表示显示为结构(II)的通式的5元环:
其中A、R和R’如上文所定义。
作为一个实例,碳酸亚烷基酯可具有结构(III)的通式:
其中R如上文。
5元碳酸亚烷基酯(1,3-二氧戊环-2-酮),例如碳酸亚乙酯(“EC”,其中R和R’=H)、碳酸亚丙酯(R=CH3且R’=H)、碳酸亚丁酯(其中R=CH2CH3且R’=H或其中R=CH3且R’=CH3)和碳酸甘油酯(R=CH2OH且R’=H)为此处有用的示例热活化剂。
在一个实施方案中,当n=1时,X和Y中的至少一个或两个=H。
此处有用的6元碳酸亚烷基酯(1,3-二烷-2-酮)包括碳酸亚丙酯(X和Y=H,R且R’=H)。其中A=N的示例热活化剂包括2-唑烷酮(R和R’=H,n=0)及其衍生物。
根据结构(I)的示例热活化剂为小分子(MW≤800g/mol,或者≤600g/mol,例如≤200g/mol)而不是低聚化合物或聚合物(≥1000g/mol)。它们为水相容且稳定的,能够渗透并与角蛋白材料反应,并且可通过≤210℃的平或圆烙铁活化。
结构(I)化合物,例如碳酸亚烷基酯特别适于示例的应用,因为它们通常具有低毒性且在加热阶段期间不形成有毒的副产物。它们在室温(25℃)下也高度可溶于水,其中碳酸亚乙酯是高度可溶的(在水中超过50重量%的浓度是容易可行的)且碳酸亚丙酯以较少的量可溶(至多约20重量%)。
在一个实施方案中,根据结构(I)的热活化剂以至少5重量%,或者至少7重量%,或者至少10重量%,或者至少12重量%,或者至少15重量%,或者至少18重量%的浓度存在于拉直组合物中,在一些实施方案下,热活化剂以至多95重量%,或者至多70重量%,或者至多55重量%,或者至多50重量%,或者至多40重量%,或者至多35重量%,或者至多30重量%的浓度存在于拉直组合物中。在本文所述示例配制剂中,热活化剂选自碳酸亚乙酯(1,3-二氧戊环-2-酮)、碳酸亚丙酯、碳酸甘油酯、碳酸亚丙酯、2-唑烷酮及其组合。在这种情况下,热活化剂可适当地以10-40重量%,或者至少15重量%的总浓度存在于组合物中。
在一个实施方案中,热活化剂包括重量比为95/5-5/95,例如至少10/90的碳酸亚乙酯和碳酸亚丙酯的混合物。在这类实施方案中,碳酸亚丙酯可代替组合物中所用的一些或所有其它溶剂。
适用于本文中的碳酸亚烷基酯可以以商品名碳酸亚烷基酯由HuntsmanCorporation得到。JEFFSOL碳酸亚乙酯在室温下为固体。JEFFSOLEC-75、EC-50和EC-25分别为75/25、50/50和25/75的重量比的JEFFSOL碳酸亚乙酯和碳酸亚丙酯的混合物。这些混合物在室温下为液体。出售时,认为这些产物为至少99.8%纯的。较高纯度变体也是可得到的。
美国专利No.2,873,282描述了通过使氧化烯或其化合物与二氧化碳反应而制备碳酸亚烷基酯的方法。美国专利No.2,773,070描述了类似的方法。通常,使用烷基卤化铵催化剂,例如四乙基溴化铵。碳酸甘油(甘油)酯(GC)是市售的,并且可通过甘油与碳酸酯来源如光气、碳酸二烷基酯或碳酸亚烷基酯反应;通过甘油与脲、二氧化碳和氧气反应;或者通过二氧化碳与缩水甘油反应而合成。
在一个实施方案中,组合物(和本文所述处理方法)不含或者基本不含(少于1重量%,例如少于0.1重量%)不同于结构(I)的那些的热活化剂/交联剂。在示例实施方案中,结构(I)的热活化剂为唯一的热活化剂。特别地,组合物和方法不含或者基本不含甲醛。示例方法和组合物在组合物中不直接或者通过方法期间任何甲醛来源的反应而使用甲醛。类似地,组合物和方法可以不含或者基本不含可能分解形成刺激物的二羟乙酸、脲及其衍生物。
在一个实施方案中,组合物(和本文所述处理方法)不含或者基本不含(少于1重量%,或者少于0.1重量%,或者少于0.01重量%)环状含巯基(硫醇)化合物。环状含巯基化合物为包含直接与环碳原子连接的S-H基团的环状化合物。在一个实施方案中,组合物(和本文所述处理方法)不含或基本不含(少于1重量%,例如少于0.1重量%)所有含有硫醇基团的化合物,包括脂族和环状含硫醇基团化合物。
在一个实施方案中,组合物和方法不含或基本不含(少于1重量%,或者少于0.1重量%,或者少于0.01重量%)亚硫酸盐,所述亚硫酸盐可打破角蛋白纤维中的二硫键(通常用于永久性烫发组合物中)。
溶剂/稀释剂
除了存在的一种或多种热活化剂外,组合物可包含热活化剂可溶于/分散于其中的溶剂。溶剂可选自水及其组合。具体实例包括水和/或乙醇。
组合物可作为无水或水基配制剂制备,还预期包含水溶混性辅助溶剂和/或稀释剂的配制剂。
常用的有用溶剂通常为液体,例如水(去离子水、蒸馏水或净化水),醇,例如C1-C10脂族和芳族醇(包括二醇和三醇,例如二醇,例如乙二醇、丙二醇和甘油)、多元醇等,及其混合物。
不同于水的溶剂的实例包括线性和支化醇,例如乙醇、丙醇、异丙醇、己醇等;和芳族醇,例如苄醇、环己醇等。多元醇的非限定性实例包括多羟基醇,例如甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇、己二醇,C2-C4烷氧基化醇和C2-C4烷氧基化多元醇,例如醇、二醇和具有约2至约30个碳原子和1至约40个烷氧基单元的多元醇的乙氧基化、丙氧基化和丁氧基化醚,聚丙二醇、聚丁二醇等。非水溶剂或稀释剂的其它实例包括聚硅氧烷和聚硅氧烷衍生物,例如环二甲基硅酮等,酮,例如丙酮和甲乙酮;天然和合成油和蜡,例如植物油、植物油、动物油、香精油、矿物油、C7-C40异链烷烃,烷基羧酸酯,例如乙酸乙酯、乙酸戊酯、乳酸乙酯等,霍霍巴油、鲨鱼肝油等。上述非水辅助剂溶剂或稀释剂中的一些也可用作调理剂和乳化剂。然而,为了以重量计,这段中列出的所有液体被认为是溶剂/稀释剂。
pH改进剂
组合物的pH可以为1.5-9.5,例如至少4.5,或者至少5.5。在一些实施方案中,pH为至多8.5,或者至多7.5,或者至多6.5。为提供所选择的pH,组合物可包含一种或多种选自有机和无机酸和碱的pH改进剂。
组合物的pH可用本领域中已知的酸性和/或碱性pH调节剂的任何组合调整。酸性材料包括有机酸和无机酸,特别是单羧酸、二羧酸和三羧酸,例如乙酸、柠檬酸、酒石酸、α-羟基酸、β-羟基酸、水杨酸、乳酸、苹果酸、羟基乙酸、氨基酸,和天然果酸,或者无机酸,例如盐酸、硝酸、硫酸、氨基磺酸、磷酸及其组合。
碱性材料包括无机和有机碱及其组合。无机碱的实例包括但不限于碱金属氢氧化物(尤其是钠、钾和铵),和碱金属盐,例如硼酸钠(硼砂)、磷酸钠、焦磷酸钠等;及其混合物。有机碱的实例包括三乙醇胺(TEA)、二异丙醇胺、三异丙醇胺、氨基甲基丙醇、十二胺、椰油胺、油胺、吗啉、三戊胺、三乙胺、四(羟丙基)乙二胺、L-精氨酸、氨基甲基丙醇、氨丁三醇(2-氨基2-羟甲基-1,3-丙二醇)和PEG-15椰油胺。
这类pH改进剂可以以基于活性组分为0.0001重量%至50重量%存在。
组合物的辅助组分
组合物可包含一种或多种辅助组分,例如流变改进剂、表面活性剂、乳化剂、调理剂、湿润剂、润肤剂、防腐剂、螯合剂、推进剂、芳香剂、植物性材料、头发定型剂、着色剂、其组合等。
1.流变改进剂
为提供良好地附着在头发纤维上的组合物,组合物可包含提高组合物的总粘度的流变改进剂。当施用于头发上时,组合物的粘度可以为至少400cPs,或者至少1000cPs,或者至少2000cPs,或者至少3000cPs,并且可以为至多10,000cPs。
为提高粘度,组合物可包含一种或多种流变改进剂,所述流变改进剂可以为合成或天然的。
实例包括脂肪醇,例如C10-C32醇,例如C12-C22醇,天然油,以及丙烯酸和/或甲基丙烯酸的聚合物,例如卡波姆(carbomer)。示例的天然油包括矿物油(主要C15-C40线性和支化脂族烷烃,具有次要量的环烷烃),其可作为凡士林油出售。
示例的合成流变改进剂包括丙烯酸基聚合物和共聚物。一类丙烯酸基流变改进剂为由丙烯酸单独或者与其它烯属不饱和单体组合自由基聚合而制备的羧基官能碱溶胀和碱溶性增稠剂(AST)。聚合物可通过溶剂/沉淀以及乳液聚合技术合成。示例的这类合成流变改进剂包括丙烯酸或甲基丙烯酸的均聚物和由以下一种或多种单体聚合的共聚物:丙烯酸、取代丙烯酸以及丙烯酸和取代丙烯酸的盐和C1-C30烷基酯。如本文所定义,取代丙烯酸包含在分子的α和/或β碳原子上的取代基,其中在一个方面中,取代基独立地选自C1-4烷基、-CN和–COOH。任选,其它烯属不饱和单体,例如苯乙烯、乙酸乙烯酯、乙烯、丁二烯、丙烯腈及其混合物可共聚到骨架中。前述聚合物任选通过包含两个或更多个含有烯属不饱和的结构部分的单体交联。在一个方面中,交联剂选自每分子含有至少2个烯基醚基团的多元醇的多烯基聚醚。其它示例交联剂选自蔗糖的烯丙基醚和季戊四醇的烯丙基醚及其混合物。这些聚合物更完整地描述于美国专利No.5,087,445;美国专利No.4,509,949;和美国专利No.2,798,053中。
在一个方面中,AST流变改进剂或增稠剂为由丙烯酸或甲基丙烯酸聚合的交联均聚物并且通常以INCI名卡波姆提及。市售的卡波姆包括可由LubrizolAdvancedMaterials,Inc得到的聚合物934、940、941、956、980和996。在另一方面中,流变改进剂选自由第一单体和第二单体聚合的交联共聚物,所述第一单体选自以下一种或多种单体:丙烯酸、取代丙烯酸、丙烯酸的盐和取代丙烯酸的盐,所述第二单体选自丙烯酸或甲基丙烯酸的一种或多种丙烯酸C10-C30烷基酯。在一个方面中,单体可在如美国专利No.5,288,814所述空间稳定剂的存在下聚合,通过引用将其并入本文中。前述聚合物中的一些以INCI命名法指定为丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯交联共聚物,并且以商品名1342和1382、Ultrez20和21、ETD2020以及TR-1和TR-2由LubrizolAdvancedMaterials,Inc市购。
在另一方面中,辅助流变改进剂可以为如美国专利No.7,205,271所述的交联、线性聚(乙烯酰胺/丙烯酸)共聚物,通过引用将其公开内容并入本文中。
适用于组合物中的另一类合成流变改进剂包括疏水改性AST,通常称为疏水改性碱溶胀和碱溶性乳液(HASE)聚合物。典型的HASE聚合物为由pH敏感性或疏水性单体(例如丙烯酸和/或甲基丙烯酸)、疏水性单体(例如丙烯酸和/或甲基丙烯酸的C1-C30烷基酯、丙烯腈、苯乙烯)、“缔合单体”和任选交联单体聚合的自由基加成聚合物。缔合单体包含烯属不饱和可聚合端基、被疏水性端基封端的非离子亲水中段。非离子亲水中段包含聚氧化烯基团,例如聚氧化乙烯、聚氧化丙烯或者聚氧化乙烯/聚氧化丙烯链段的混合物。末端疏水性端基通常为C8-C40脂族结构部分。示例的脂族结构部分选自线性和支化烷基取代基、线性和支化烯基取代基、碳环取代基、芳基取代基、芳烷基取代基、芳基烷基取代基和烷基芳基取代基。在一个方面中,缔合单体可通过聚乙氧基化和/或聚丙氧基化脂族醇(通常包含支化或非支化C8-C40脂族结构部分)与包含羧酸基团的烯属不饱和单体(例如丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸)、不饱和环酐单体(例如马来酸酐、衣康酸酐、柠康酸酐)、单烯属不饱和单异氰酸酯(例如α,α-二甲基-间-异丙烯基苄基异氰酸酯)或包含羟基的烯属不饱和单体(例如乙烯醇、烯丙醇)缩合(例如酯化或醚化)而制备。聚乙氧基化和/或聚丙氧基化脂族醇为包含C8-C40脂族结构部分的单醇的氧化乙烯和/或氧化丙烯加合物。包含C8-C40脂族结构部分的醇的非限定性实例为辛醇、异辛醇(2-乙基己醇)、壬醇(1-壬醇)、癸醇、月桂醇、肉豆蔻醇、鲸蜡醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇(C16-C18单醇的混合物)、硬脂醇、异硬脂醇、反十八烯醇、油醇、花生醇、山萮醇、二十四醇、蜡醇、褐煤醇、蜂花醇、紫胶蜡醇(laccerylalcohol)、坎达蜡醇(geddylalcohol)和C2-C20烷基取代酚(例如壬酚)等。
示例的HASE聚合物公开于美国专利Nos.3,657,175;4,384,096;4,464,524;4,801,671;和5,292,843中。另外,HASE聚合物的广泛回顾在GregoryD.Shay,第25章,“Alkali-SwellableandAlkali-SolubleThickenerTechnologyAReview”,PolymersinAqueousMedia-PerformanceThroughAssociation,AdvancesinChemistrySeries223,J.EdwardGlass(编者),ACS,第457-494页,DivisionPolymericMaterials,Washington,DC(1989)中找到,通过引用将其相关公开内容并入本文中。市售的HASE聚合物以商品名22(INCI名:丙烯酸酯/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯(Steareth-20Methacrylate)共聚物)、44(INCI名:PEG-150/癸醇/SMDI共聚物)、Aculyn(INCI名:PEG-150/硬脂醇/SMDI共聚物)和88(INCI名:丙烯酸酯/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯(Steareth-20Methacrylate)交联共聚物)由Rohm&Haas以及NovethixTML-10(INCI名:丙烯酸酯/山萮醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯(Beheneth-25Methacrylate)共聚物)由LubrizolAdvancedMaterials,Inc出售。
在另一实施方案中,酸溶胀性缔合聚合物可与本发明疏水改性阳离子聚合物一起使用。这类聚合物通常具有阳离子和缔合特征。这些聚合物为由单体混合物聚合的自由基加成聚合物,所述单体混合物包含酸敏性氨基取代亲水单体(例如二烷基氨基烷基(甲基)丙烯酸酯或(甲基)丙烯酰胺)、缔合单体(上文定义的)、较低级烷基(甲基)丙烯酸酯或者选自如下的其它可自由基聚合共聚单体:(甲基)丙烯酸的羟基烷基酯、聚乙二醇的乙烯基和/或烯丙基醚、聚丙二醇的乙烯基和/或烯丙基醚、聚乙二醇/聚丙二醇的乙烯基和/或烯丙基醚、(甲基)丙烯酸的聚乙二醇酯、(甲基)丙烯酸的聚丙二醇酯、(甲基)丙烯酸的聚乙二醇/聚丙二醇酯及其组合。这些聚合物可任选为交联的。酸敏意指氨基取代基在低pH值,通常0.5-6.5下变成阳离子。示例的酸溶胀性缔合聚合物以商品名Plus(INCI名:丙烯酸酯/氨基丙烯酸酯/C10-C30烷基PEG-20衣康酸酯)由AkzoNobel以及AquaCC(INCI名:聚丙烯酸酯-1交联聚合物)由LubrizolAdvancedMaterials,Inc市购。在一个方面中,酸溶胀性聚合物为一种或多种(甲基)丙烯酸C1-C5烷基酯、C1-C4二烷基氨基C1-C6烷基甲基丙烯酸酯、PEG/PPG-30/5烯丙基醚、PEG20-25C10-C30烷基醚甲基丙烯酸酯、羟基C2-C6烷基甲基丙烯酸酯与乙二醇二甲基丙烯酸酯交联的共聚物。其它有用的酸溶胀性缔合聚合物公开于美国专利No.7,378,479中。
疏水改性的烷氧基化甲基葡糖苷,例如可分别以商品名DOE-120、GlucamateTMLT和GlucamateTMSSE-20由LubrizolAdvancedMaterials,Inc.得到的PEG-120甲基葡萄糖二油酸酯、PEG-120甲基葡萄糖三油酸酯和PEG-20甲基葡萄糖倍半硬脂酸酯也适用作流变改进剂。
由树木和灌木分泌物(shrubexudate)得到的多糖,例如阿拉伯树胶、印度胶(gumgahatti)和黄芪树胶以及果胶;海藻提取物,例如海藻酸盐和角叉菜聚糖(例如λ、κ、η及其盐);藻类提取物,例如琼脂;微生物多糖,例如黄原胶、结冷胶(gellan)和威兰胶(wellan);纤维素醚,例如乙基己基乙基纤维素、羟丁基甲基纤维素、羟乙基甲基纤维素、羟丙基甲基纤维素、甲基纤维素、羧甲基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素和羟丙基纤维素;半乳甘露聚糖胶(polygalactomannan),例如胡芦巴胶、决明子胶、刺槐豆胶、塔拉胶和瓜尔胶;淀粉,例如玉米淀粉、木薯淀粉、米淀粉、小麦淀粉、土豆淀粉和高粱淀粉也可作为合适的流变改进剂用于组合物中。
流变改进剂可单独或组合使用,并且可基于活性物质以基于组合物的总重量为0.001-50重量%,例如至少0.1重量%,或者至少1重量%,例如至多20重量%,或者至多10重量%%,或者至多3重量%的总浓度存在于组合物中。
2.表面活性剂
组合物还可包含一种或多种表面活性剂,例如阴离子、阳离子、两性和非离子表面活性剂及其混合物。
存在的阳离子表面活性剂可充当调理剂并且通过确保加热装置在头发纤维上平滑地运行而帮助加热步骤。尽管表面活性剂也可帮助提高粘度,就描述本文中的示例实施方案而言,不认为它们是流变改进剂。
阳离子表面活性剂可以为含水表面活性剂组合物领域中已知或先前使用的阳离子表面活性剂中的任一种。合适类别的阳离子表面活性剂为烷基胺、烷基咪唑啉、乙氧基化胺、季铵化合物和季铵化酯。另外,烷基胺氧化物可在低pH下充当阳离子表面活性剂。
烷基胺表面活性剂可以为取代或未取代的伯、仲和叔C12-C22脂肪烷基胺的盐,和有时称为“酰胺胺”的物质。烷基胺及其盐的实例包括二甲基椰油胺、二甲基棕榈胺、二辛胺、二甲基硬脂胺、二甲基大豆胺、大豆胺、肉豆蔻基胺、十三烷基胺、乙基硬脂基胺、N-牛脂基丙二胺、乙氧基化硬脂基胺、二羟基乙基硬脂基胺、花生基山萮基胺、二甲基月桂胺、硬脂基胺氢氯化物、大豆胺氯化物、硬脂基胺甲酸盐、N-牛脂基丙二胺二氯化物,和氨端聚二甲基硅氧烷(amodimethicone)(用氨基官能团封端的聚硅氧烷聚合物,例如氨基乙基氨基丙基硅氧烷的INCI名)。
酰胺胺及其盐的实例包括硬脂酰胺基丙基二甲胺、硬脂酰胺丙基二甲胺柠檬酸盐、棕榈酰胺丙基二乙胺和椰油酰胺丙基二甲胺乳酸盐。
烷基咪唑啉表面活性剂的实例包括烷基羟乙基咪唑啉,例如硬脂基羟乙基咪唑啉、椰油基羟乙基咪唑啉、乙基羟甲基油基唑啉等。
乙氧基化胺的实例包括PEG-椰油多胺、PEG-15牛脂胺、季铵盐-52等。
在用作阳离子表面活性剂的季铵化合物中,一些相当于通式:(R5R6R7R8N+)E-,其中R5、R6、R7和R8相互独立地选自具有1至约22个碳原子的脂族基团,或者烷基链中具有1至约22个碳原子的芳族、烷氧基、聚氧化烯、烷基酰胺基、羟烷基、芳基或烷基芳基;且E-为成盐阴离子,例如选自卤素(例如氯、溴)、乙酸根、柠檬酸根、乳酸根、甘醇酸根、磷酸根、硝酸根、硫酸根和烷基硫酸根的那些。除碳和氢原子外,脂族基团可包含醚键、酯键和其它基团如氨基。较长链脂族基团,例如具有约12个碳或更高(烷基链中C10-C32)的那些可以为饱和或不饱和的。在一个方面中,芳基选自苯基和苄基。
示例的季铵表面活性剂包括但不限于鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵(西曲氯铵)、鲸蜡基氯化吡啶、二鲸蜡基二甲基氯化铵、二-十六烷基二甲基氯化铵、硬脂基二甲基苄基氯化铵、二-十八烷基二甲基氯化铵、二-二十烷基二甲基氯化铵、二-二十二烷基二甲基氯化铵、二-十六烷基二甲基氯化铵、二-十六烷基二甲基乙酸铵、山萮基三甲基氯化铵(山萮基三甲基氯化铵)、苯扎氯铵、苄索氯铵和二(椰子烷基)二甲基氯化铵、二-牛脂基二甲基氯化铵、二(氢化牛脂)二甲基氯化铵、二(氢化牛脂)二甲基乙酸铵、二牛脂二甲基甲基硫酸铵、二牛脂二丙基磷酸铵和二牛脂二甲基硝酸铵。
在低pH下,胺氧化物可质子化并类似于N-烷基胺行为。实例包括但不限于二甲基-十二烷基胺氧化物、油基二(2-羟乙基)胺氧化物、二甲基十四烷基胺氧化物、二(2-羟乙基)-十四烷基胺氧化物、二甲基十六烷基胺氧化物、山萮胺氧化物、椰油胺氧化物、癸基十四烷基胺氧化物、二羟乙基C12-15烷氧基丙胺氧化物、二羟乙基椰油胺氧化物、二羟乙基月桂胺氧化物、二羟乙基硬脂胺氧化物、二羟乙基牛脂胺氧化物、氢化棕榈仁胺氧化物、氢化牛脂胺氧化物、羟乙基羟丙基C12-C15烷氧基丙胺氧化物、月桂胺氧化物、肉豆蔻基胺氧化物、鲸蜡基胺氧化物、油酰胺丙胺氧化物、油胺氧化物、棕榈胺氧化物、PEG-3月桂胺氧化物、二甲基月桂胺氧化物、三膦基甲基胺氧化钾、大豆酰胺丙基胺氧化物、椰油酰胺丙基铵氧化物、硬脂胺氧化物、牛脂胺氧化物及其混合物。
特别有用的阳离子表面活性剂包括脂肪酸衍生物,例如脂肪(烷基链中C10-C32)烷基铵氯化物,例如西曲氯铵和山萮基三甲基氯化铵。这类表面活性剂也可用作调理剂和润肤剂。
其它表面活性剂可作为各种组分存在,例如要求悬浮或稳定的基本不溶性材料(例如聚硅氧烷、油质材料、珠光材料、美学和化妆品珠粒和颗粒、气泡、剥离剂(exfoliant)等)可存在于组合物中。
阴离子表面活性剂可以为含水表面活性剂组合物领域中已知或先前使用的阴离子表面活性剂中的任一种。合适的阴离子表面活性剂包括但不限于烷基硫酸盐、烷基醚硫酸盐、烷基磺酸盐、烷芳基磺酸盐、α-烯烃磺酸盐、烷基酰胺磺酸盐、烷芳基聚醚硫酸盐、烷基酰氨基醚硫酸盐、烷基单甘油基醚硫酸盐、烷基单甘油酯硫酸盐、烷基单甘油酯磺酸盐、烷基琥珀酸盐、烷基磺基琥珀酸盐、烷基磺化琥珀酰胺酸盐、烷基醚磺基琥珀酸盐、烷基酰氨基磺基琥珀酸盐;烷基磺基乙酸盐、烷基磷酸盐、烷基醚磷酸盐、烷基醚羧酸盐、烷基酰氨基醚羧酸盐、N-烷基氨基酸、N-酰基氨基酸、烷基肽、N-酰基牛磺酸盐、烷基羟乙磺酸盐、羧酸盐,其中酰基衍生自脂肪酸;以及其碱金属、碱土金属、铵、胺和三乙醇胺盐。
在一个方面中,前述盐的阳离子结构部分可选自钠、钾、镁、铵、单-、二-和三乙醇胺盐,以及单-、二-和三异丙基胺盐。前述表面活性剂的烷基和酰基包含在一个方面中约6至约24个碳原子,在另一方面中8-22个碳原子,在另一方面中约12-18个碳原子,且可以为不饱和的。表面活性剂中的芳基可选自苯基或苄基。上述含醚表面活性剂可包含在一个方面中1-10个氧化乙烯和/或氧化丙烯单元每表面活性剂分子,在另一方面中1-3个氧化乙烯单元每表面活性剂分子。
合适阴离子表面活性剂的实例包括用1、2和3摩尔氧化乙烯乙氧基化的月桂醇聚醚(laureth)硫酸酯、十三醇聚醚(trideceth)硫酸酯、肉豆蔻醇聚醚(myreth)硫酸酯、C12-C13链烷醇聚醚(pareth)硫酸酯、C12-C14链烷醇聚醚硫酸酯和C12-C15链烷醇聚醚硫酸酯的钠、钾、锂、镁和铵盐;钠、钾、锂、镁、铵和三乙醇胺月桂基硫酸盐、椰油基硫酸盐、十三烷基硫酸盐、肉豆蔻基硫酸盐、鲸蜡基硫酸盐、鲸蜡硬脂基(cetearyl)硫酸盐、硬脂基硫酸盐、油基硫酸盐和牛脂硫酸盐,月桂基磺基琥珀酸二钠、月桂醇聚醚磺基琥珀酸二钠、椰油酰羟乙磺酸酯钠、C12-C14烯烃磺酸钠、月桂醇聚醚-6羧酸钠、甲基椰油酰基牛磺酸钠、椰油酰甘氨酸钠、肉豆蔻基肌氨酸钠、十二烷基苯磺酸钠、椰油酰肌氨酸钠、椰油酰谷氨酸钠、肉豆蔻酰谷氨酸钾、三乙醇胺单月桂基磷酸盐和脂肪酸皂,包括包含约8至约22个碳原子的饱和和不饱和脂肪酸的钠、钾、铵和三乙醇胺盐。
两亲或两性离子表面活性剂为包含酸性和碱性结构部分且能够作为酸或碱行为的分子。合适的表面活性剂可以为含水表面活性剂组合物领域中已知或先前使用的两亲表面活性剂。示例的两亲表面活性剂类包括但不限于氨基酸(例如N烷基氨基酸和N-酰基氨基酸)、甜菜碱、磺基甜菜碱和烷基两性羧酸盐。
适用于本文中的氨基酸基表面活性剂包括下式所示表面活性剂:
其中R10表示具有10-22个碳原子的饱和或不饱和烃基或者包含具有9-22个碳原子的饱和或不饱和烃基的酰基,Y为氢或甲基,Z选自氢、-CH3、-CH(CH3)2、-CH2CH(CH3)2、-CH(CH3)CH2CH3、-CH2C6H5、-CH2C6H4OH、-CH2OH、-CH(OH)CH3、-(CH2)4NH2、-(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2、-CH2C(O)O-M+、-(CH2)2C(O)O-M+。M为成盐阳离子。在一个方面中,R10表示选自线性或支化C10-C22烷基、线性或支化C10-C22烯基、R11C(O)-所示酰基的基团,其中R11选自线性或支化C9-C22烷基、线性或支化C9-C22烯基。在一个方面中,M+选自钠、钾、铵和三乙醇胺(TEA)。
氨基酸表面活性剂可衍生自α-氨基酸如丙氨酸、精氨酸、天冬氨酸、谷氨酸、甘氨酸、异亮氨酸、亮氨酸、赖氨酸、苯基丙氨酸、丝氨酸、酪氨酸和缬氨酸的烷基化和酰基化。代表性N-酰基氨基酸表面活性剂为但不限于N-酰化谷氨酸的单-和二羧酸盐(例如钠、钾、铵和TEA),例如椰油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰谷氨酸钠、肉豆蔻酰谷氨酸钠、棕榈酰谷氨酸钠、硬脂酰谷氨酸钠、椰油酰谷氨酸二钠、硬脂酰谷氨酸二钠、椰油酰谷氨酸钾、月桂酰谷氨酸钾和肉豆蔻酰谷氨酸钾;N-酰化丙氨酸的羧酸盐(例如钠、钾、铵和TEA),例如椰油酰丙氨酸钠和TEA月桂酰丙氨酸盐;N-酰化甘氨酸的羧酸盐(例如钠、钾、铵和TEA),例如椰油酰甘氨酸钠和椰油酰甘氨酸钾;N-酰化肌氨酸的羧酸盐(例如钠、钾、铵和TEA),例如月桂酰肌氨酸钠、椰油酰肌氨酸钠、肉豆蔻酰肌氨酸钠、油酰肌氨酸钠和月桂酰肌氨酸铵;和上述表面活性剂的混合物。
用于组合物中的甜菜碱和磺基甜菜碱选自下式表示的烷基甜菜碱、烷基氨基甜菜碱和烷基酰氨基甜菜碱以及相应磺基甜菜碱(磺基甜菜碱):
其中R12为C7-C22烷基或烯基,各个R13独立地为C1-C4烷基,R14为C1-C5亚烷基或羟基取代C1-C5亚烷基,n为2-6的整数,A为羧酸酯或磺酸酯基团,且M为成盐阳离子。在一个方面中,R12为C11-C18烷基或C11-C18烯基。在一个方面中,R13为甲基。在一个方面中,R14为亚甲基、亚乙基或羟基亚丙基。在一个方面中,n为3。在另一方面中,M选自钠、钾、镁、铵以及单-、二-和三乙醇胺阳离子。
合适甜菜碱的实例包括月桂基甜菜碱、椰油基甜菜碱、油基甜菜碱、椰油十六烷基二甲基甜菜碱、月桂基酰氨基丙基甜菜碱、椰油酰氨基丙基甜菜碱和椰油酰氨基丙基羟基磺基甜菜碱。
烷基两性羧酸盐如烷基两性乙酸盐和烷基两性丙酸盐(单-和二取代羧酸盐)可由下式表示:
其中R12为C7-C22烷基或烯基,R15为–CH2C(O)O-M+、-CH2CH2C(O)O-M+或–CH2CH(OH)CH2SO3 -M+,R16为氢或–CH2C(O)O-M+,且M为选自钠、钾、镁、铵以及单-、二-和三乙醇胺的阳离子。
示例的烷基两性羧酸盐包括椰油酰两性乙酸钠、月桂酰两性乙酸钠、辛酰两性乙酸钠、椰油酰两性二乙酸二钠、月桂酰两性二乙酸二钠、癸酰两性二乙酸二钠、辛酰两性二乙酸二钠、椰油酰两性二丙酸二钠、月桂酰两性二丙酸二钠、癸酰两性二丙酸二钠和辛酰两性二丙酸二钠。
非离子表面活性剂可以为含水表面活性剂组合物领域中已知或先前使用的非离子表面活性剂中的任一种。合适的非离子表面活性剂包括但不限于脂族(C6-C18)伯或者仲线性或支链酸、醇或苯酚;烷基乙氧基化物;烷基苯酚烷氧基化物(尤其是乙氧基化物和混合乙氧基/丙氧基结构部分);烷基苯酚的嵌段氧化烯缩合物;链烷醇的氧化烯缩合物;和氧化乙烯/氧化丙烯嵌段共聚物。其它合适的非离子表面活性剂包括单-或二烷基链烷醇酰胺;烷基聚葡糖苷(APG);脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯;聚氧化乙烯脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯;聚氧化乙烯山梨糖醇酯;聚氧化乙烯酸和聚氧化乙烯醇。合适非离子表面活性剂的其它实例包括椰油基单-或二乙醇酰胺、椰油基葡糖苷、癸基二葡糖苷、月桂基二葡糖苷、椰油基二葡糖苷、聚山梨酸酯20、40、60和80、乙氧基化线性醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇、羊毛脂醇、硬脂酸、硬脂酸甘油酯、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、月桂醇聚醚7和油醇聚醚20。
在另一实施方案中,非离子表面活性剂包括烷氧基化甲基葡糖苷,例如甲基葡糖醇聚醚-10、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-20、PPG-10甲基葡萄糖醚和PPG-20甲基葡萄糖醚,其分别可以以商品名E10、E20、P10和P20由LubrizolAdvancedMaterials,Inc.得到;合适的还有疏水改性烷氧基化甲基葡糖苷,例如PEG-120甲基葡萄糖二油酸酯、PEG-120甲基葡萄糖三油酸酯和PEG-20甲基葡萄糖倍半硬脂酸酯,其分别可以以商品名DOE-120、GlucamateTMLT和GlucamateTMSSE-20由LubrizolAdvancedMaterials,Inc.得到。其它示例的疏水改性烷氧基化甲基葡糖苷公开于美国专利Nos.6,573,375和6,727,357中。
可用于组合物中的其它表面活性剂更详细地描述于WO99/21530、美国专利Nos.3,929,678、4,565,647、5,720,964和5,858,948中。另外,合适的表面活性剂还描述于McCutcheon’sEmulsifiersandDetergents(北美和国际版,Schwartz,Perry和Berch)中。
尽管包含示例热活化剂的组合物中所用表面活性剂的量可取决于所需应用宽泛地变化,通用量通常基于活性物质为1重量%至80重量%。例如,表面活性剂可以以基于活性物质为0.001-20重量%,例如至少0.1重量%的总浓度存在。
3.乳化剂
脂肪醇和脂肪酸以及它们的烷氧基化物、聚甘油的偏酯以及低聚硅氧烷用于本文中。脂肪醇可由天然来源得到,因此为醇的混合物。
当用于示例组合物中时,乳化剂可包括脂肪醇,例如或C12-C32或C12-C22脂肪醇,烷氧基化醇,例如C12-C32或C12-C22烷氧基化醇,脂肪酸,例如C12-C32或C12-C22脂肪酸,烷氧基化脂肪酸,例如C12-C32或C12-C22烷氧基化脂肪酸(各自具有存在于分子中的10-80个氧化乙烯、氧化丙烯以及氧化乙烯/氧化丙烯组合单元的烷氧基化物)、C8-C22烷基多糖(APG)、乙氧基化甾醇(其中氧化乙烯单元的数目为2至约150)、聚甘油的偏酯、具有2-6个碳原子的多元醇的酯和偏酯、聚甘油的偏酯和有机硅氧烷及其组合。
用于本文中的一种示例醇为鲸蜡硬脂醇,其为脂肪醇(主要是鲸蜡醇和硬脂醇)的混合物。由于这类脂肪醇可在组合物中用作流变改进剂,它们因此被认为是流变改进剂以限定组合物的各组分的重量。这类脂肪醇也可用作润肤剂和/或调理剂。
特别合适的乳化剂包括聚氧化乙烯醚,例如鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-n(其中n表示链中的聚乙烯单元的数目,例如2-100,例如5-50),例如鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚20。
示例的烷基葡糖苷和低聚糖苷可选自辛基葡糖苷、癸基葡糖苷、月桂基葡糖苷、棕榈基葡糖苷、异硬脂基葡糖苷、硬脂基葡糖苷、花生基葡糖苷和山萮基葡糖苷及其混合物。
基于具有2-6个碳原子的多元醇与具有12to30个碳原子的线性饱和和不饱和脂肪酸缩合的酯和偏酯的乳化剂为例如甘油或乙二醇的单酯和二酯或者丙二醇与饱和和不饱和C12-C30脂肪酸的单酯。
乳化剂可适当地以组合物的0.01-20重量%,例如至少0.1重量%,例如至多5重量%存在,为计算存在于组合物中的量,其不包括上文作为流变改进剂列出的那些。
4.调理剂
示例的调理剂包括polyquaternium-n(聚合物中含有季铵中心的多阳离子聚合物),其中n为1-47,n各自表示具体聚合物,例如polyquaternium37,和胺官能化聚硅氧烷,例如氨端聚二甲基硅氧烷。另一合适的调理剂为水解角蛋白。
这类调理剂可以以组合物的0.01-20重量%,例如至少0.1重量%,例如至多5重量%存在。
5.湿润剂
适用于本发明组合物中的湿润剂包括但不限于甘油、聚甘油、山梨糖醇、丙-1,2-二醇(丙二醇)、丁-1,2,3-三醇、聚乙二醇、葡萄糖、甘露糖醇、木糖醇及其组合物。
这类湿润剂可以以组合物的0.01-20重量%,例如至少0.1重量%,或者至少1重量%,例如至多8重量%,或者至多5重量%存在。
6.防腐剂
在一个方面中,适用于个人护理中的任何防腐剂可用于拉直头发的组合物中。合适的防腐剂包括聚甲氧基二环唑烷、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯、对羟基苯甲酸乙酯、对羟基苯甲酸丁酯、苯基三唑、DMDM乙内酰脲(也称为1,3-二甲基-5,5-二甲基乙内酰脲)、咪唑烷基脲、苯氧基乙醇、苯氧基对羟基苯甲酸乙酯、甲基异噻唑啉酮、甲基氯异噻唑啉酮、苯并异噻唑啉酮、三氯生和如上文所公开的合适聚季铵盐(例如polyquaternium-1化合物)。
在另一方面中,酸基防腐剂用于示例组合物中。酸基防腐剂的使用促进配制低pH范围内的产物。除了适于拉直方法外,降低配置的pH固有地提供微生物生长的荒凉环境。此外,在低pH下配制增强酸基防腐剂的效力,并提供保持皮肤上的酸性pH平衡的个人护理产品。可用于个人护理产品中的任何酸基防腐剂可用于示例组合物中。在一个方面中,酸防腐剂为式R3C(O)OH表示的羧酸化合物,其中R3表示氢、包含1-8个碳原子的饱和和不饱和烃基或C6-C10芳基。在另一方面中,R3选自氢、C1-C8烷基、C2-C8烯基或苯基。示例的酸为但不限于甲酸、乙酸、丙酸、山梨酸、己酸和苯甲酸及其混合物。
在另一方面中,合适的酸包括但不限于草酸、琥珀酸、戊二酸、己二酸、壬二酸、马来酸、富马酸、乳酸、甘油酸、丙醇二酸、苹果酸、酒石酸、葡糖酸、柠檬酸、抗坏血酸、水杨酸、邻苯二甲酸、扁桃酸、二苯乙醇酸及其混合物。
上述酸的盐也是有用的,条件是它们在低pH值下保持效力。合适的盐包括上述酸的碱金属(例如钠、钾、钙)和铵盐。
酸基防腐剂和/或它们的盐可单独使用或者与常用于个人护理、家居护理、健康护理以及机关和工业护理产品中的非酸防腐剂组合使用。
防腐剂可包含在一个方面中头发拉直组合物的总重量的0.01重量%至3.0重量%,或者0.1重量%至1重量%,或者0.3重量%至1重量%。
7.螯合剂
螯合剂可用于稳定组合物以防金属离子的有害作用。当使用时,合适的螯合剂包括EDTA(乙二胺四乙酸)及其盐如二钠EDTA、柠檬酸及其盐、环糊精等及其混合物。
这类合适的螯合剂可包含头发拉直组合物的总重量的0.001重量%至3重量%,例如0.01重量%至2重量%或者0.01重量%至1重量%。
8.推进剂
如果需要的话,任何已知的气溶胶推进剂可用于将头发拉直组合物提供到待拉直的头发表面上。示例的推进剂包括较低沸点烃,例如C3-C6直链和支链烃。示例的烃推进剂包括丙烷、丁烷、异丁烯及其混合物。其它合适的推进剂包括醚,例如二甲醚,氢氟碳,例如1,1-二氟乙烷,和压缩气体,例如空气和二氧化碳。
在一个方面中,这些组合物可包含基于组合物的总重量为0.1重量%至60重量%,或者0.5-35重量%的推进剂。
9.芳香剂和香料
可用于示例组合物中的芳香剂和香料组分包括天然和合成芳香剂、香料、香水和香精以及发出香味的任何其它物质。作为天然芳香剂,存在植物来源的那些,例如来自花(例如百合、熏衣草、玫瑰、茉莉、橙花、依兰)、茎和叶(老鹤草、广藿香、苦橙叶、胡椒薄荷)、果实(大茴香、芫荽、小茴香、杜松)、果皮(香柠檬、柠檬、橙)、根(肉豆蔻、当归、芹菜、小豆蔻、闭鞘姜、鸢尾、白菖)、木(松树、檀香木、愈创树木、雪松、蔷薇木、肉桂)、药草和草(龙蒿、芸香草、鼠尾草、百里香)、针状物和枝条(云杉、松树、欧洲红松、石松)、以及树脂和香液(白松香、榄香脂、安息香、没药、乳香、愈伤草树脂)的油提取物,以及动物来源的那些,例如麝香、麝猫香、海狸香、龙涎香等,及其混合物。
合成芳香剂和香料的实例为芳族酯、醚、醛、酮、醇和烃,包括乙酸苄基酯、异丁酸苯氧基乙酯、乙酸对-叔丁基环己基酯、乙酸里哪醇酯、乙酸二甲基苄基甲酯、乙酸苯基乙酯、苯甲酸里哪醇酯、甲酸苄基酯、甘氨酸乙基甲基苯酯、丙酸烯丙基环己基酯、丙酸苏合香酯和水杨酸苄基酯;苄基乙基醚;具有8-18个碳原子的直链醛、柠檬醛、香茅醛、香茅基含氧乙醛、仙客来醛、羟基香茅醛、铃兰醛和对叔丁基苯丙醛;紫罗酮化合物、α-异甲基紫罗酮和甲基柏木酮;茴香脑、香茅醇、丁子香酚、异丁子香酚、香叶醇、熏衣草醇、橙花叔醇、里哪醇、苯乙醇和萜品醇、α-蒎烯、萜烯(例如柠檬烯),和香脂,及其混合物。
10.植物成分
用于本文中的合适植物成分可包括例如来自紫雏菊属(Echinacea)(例如狭叶紫椎菊(angustifolia)、紫松果菊(purpurea)、苍白紫松果菊(pallida)属)、小丝兰(yuccaglauca)、柳草(willowherb)、紫苏叶(basilleave)、土耳其牛至(Turkishoregano)、胡萝卜根、葡萄柚、茴香籽、迷迭香、姜黄、百里香、蓝莓、柿子椒、黑莓、螺旋藻、黑醋栗、茶叶如中国茶、黑茶(例如变种花橙黄白毫(FloweryOrangePekoe)、金色花橙黄白毫(GoldenFloweryOrangePekoe)、精制花橙黄白毫(FineTippyGoldenFloweryOrangePekoe))、绿茶(例如变种日本茶、大吉岭茶(GreenDarjeeling))、乌龙茶、咖啡子、蒲公英根、枣椰果实(datepalmfruit)、银杏叶、绿茶、山楂、甘草、鼠尾草、草莓、香豌豆、西红柿、香草果、紫草、山金车、积雪草(centellaasiatica)、矢车菊、马栗树、常春藤、木兰、燕麦、三色紫罗兰、黄芩、沙棘、白荨麻和金缕梅。植物提取物还可包括例如绿原酸、谷胱甘肽、甘草甜、新橙皮苷、栎精、芸香苷、桑色素、杨梅黄酮、苦艾和春黄菊的提取物。
11.头发定型剂
除示例的热活化剂外,可包含头发定型组合物,包括聚合物定型剂,例如3-氨基丙基甲基、二甲基,聚硅氧烷和硅氧烷与2-乙基-4,5-二氢唑均聚物、硫酸乙酯的反应产物,例如聚硅氧烷-9,和成膜聚合物,例如聚丙烯酸和聚丙烯酸钠聚合物定型剂,例如可由LubrizolCorp得到的FixateTMRSP。
头发定型剂可以以0.001重量%至20重量%,例如至少0.1重量%,或者至多5重量%存在于组合物中。
12.润肤剂
不同于上文所列那些的润肤剂可包括硅油、官能化硅油、烃油、脂肪醇、脂肪醇醚、脂肪酸、一元和/或二元和/或三元和/或多元羧酸与一元和多元醇的酯、聚氧化乙烯、聚氧化丙烯、脂肪醇的聚氧化乙烯和聚氧化丙烯醚的混合物,及其混合物。润肤剂可以为饱和或不饱和的,具有脂族特征且为直链或支链或者包含脂环族或芳族环。
用于本文中的示例润肤剂为己二酸二丙酯。
13.缓冲剂
缓冲剂可用于示例组合物中。合适的缓冲剂包括碱或碱土金属碳酸盐、磷酸盐、碳酸氢盐、柠檬酸盐、硼酸盐、乙酸盐、酸酐、琥珀酸盐等,例如磷酸钠、柠檬酸钠、乙酸钠、碳酸氢钠和碳酸钠。
用于本文中的其它辅助组分可包括UV吸收剂,例如二苯甲酮-4。
组合物可不包含在头发拉直应用中不具有益处的某些组分,例如头发着色剂(染发剂)、肽、亚硫酸盐、亚硫酸氢盐和环状巯基化合物。
示例霜配制剂
作为一个实例,霜配制剂可如表1所示配制:
表1:示例组合物
如所理解的,组合物可通过将来自实施例1和2的范围组合而形成。另外,所选择的方法,例如接触时间和加热温度也可影响组合物组分及其量的选择,如以下实施例所阐述的。
可提供半永久头发拉直组合物并由合适的包装形式,例如加压和非加压溶剂,例如罐、瓶、袋、安瓿瓶、广口瓶、管等分配。喷雾组合物可作为包含推进剂的加压气溶胶喷雾、摩丝、针剂(spritze)和泡沫,或者作为非加压机械推进喷雾和泡沫由手指起动泵装置分配。
示例组合物可用于头发上以通过使用热赋予优异的拉直效果。处理方法包括首先将头发用组合物涂覆。这可用任何合适的涂布器,例如刷、梳子、海绵、垫、布、手指例如佩戴手套进行以将纤维用组合物涂覆。保持组合物与头发接触足够的时间以使热活化剂渗透到纤维中,例如几分钟,例如至少5或至少10分钟,或者至少20分钟,或者至少30分钟,且至多60分钟,或者至多40分钟,或者至多30分钟。最佳的接触时间可取决于因素如热活化剂的浓度和在加热阶段中用于接触头发的加热装置的温度而变化。
热可用加热装置施用,所述加热装置提供足以将结构(1)的热活化剂活化的温度,例如至少185℃,或者至少190℃,或者至少200℃,或者至少205℃或至少约210℃,且至多230℃或至多225℃,或者至多220℃的温度。保持加热装置与头发接触足够的时间以进行所需的改变,例如发绺长度提高至少5%,或者至少10%。时间取决于大量因素,例如头发的含湿量、加热装置的温度、热活化剂的浓度等,但通常对每厘米头发长度总计至少10秒,或者至少1或2分钟。示例的加热装置包括平或圆烙铁、微波发生器、红外辐射源等。在平或圆烙铁的情况下,例如加热装置具有至少一个表面(其与纤维接触),所述表面例如用电力电源提高至至少180℃,或者至少190℃,或者至少200℃,或者至少205℃或至少约210℃,且至多230℃或至多225℃,或者至多220℃的表面温度。
发绺的温度可例如用位于发绺内的热电偶测量,并且在用加热装置加热期间可达到至少150℃或至少170℃的温度。
任选,可将头发在用拉直组合物处理以后和在施用热以前干燥至一定程度以提高角蛋白纤维的温度和/或避免加热阶段期间蒸汽的实质性释放。例如部分干燥可通过用吹风机、温度约100℃的干燥罩吹干,通过冻干、用毛巾擦等实现。例如,组合物的含湿量在用加热装置施用热以前可降至10重量%或更少,例如约2重量%。一般而言,进行干燥以除去溶剂,同时保持至少一部分或者所有施用的热活化剂在头发上。也由于该原因,在示例实施方案中,在施用与加热阶段之间不冲洗头发(例如用水或其它水溶液)。
烙铁与头发接触的一端通常具有两个平表面。这两个平表面可以为金属或陶瓷的。它们可以为光滑或有凹口的。烙铁的应用可通过间隔数秒的连续接触,或者沿着发束逐步移动或滑动而进行。在示例方法中,烙铁的应用通过在一个或多个程,例如至少5个程中从发根至发梢连续移动而进行。
不愿受任何特定理论束缚,提出热平烙铁将硬α-角蛋白软化并将头发纤维拉直,并且协同地,由平烙铁赋予的热使环状碳酸酯(或者根据结构(I)的其它热活化剂)与头发纤维的胺基团之间的反应(例如交联或其它改性反应)活化,可能产生N,N’-二取代脲键。这导致新形成的形状定型。
试验结果提出碳酸亚乙酯例如在水溶液中尤其可容易地渗透头发纤维并借助温度高于185℃或例如约210℃的平烙铁与硬蛋白质材料反应。试验中所用卷曲发绺在拉直时可经得住多达50次洗发水洗涤循环。拉直的发绺看起来发亮并且感觉光滑且丝滑而没有臭味。碳酸亚丙酯和碳酸甘油酯在相同条件下单独使用时是不太有效,但可与结构(I)的其它热活化剂或其它交联剂组合使用。
碳酸亚烷基酯,特别是碳酸亚乙酯显示出为有效的蛋白质改性剂或交联剂,其在作用于角蛋白肽上时赋予所需反应的容易性和效力。简言之,将包含碳酸亚乙酯的水溶液施用于头发上,其后热平烙铁处理(例如≤210℃)可有效地根据需要改变其形状,且该形状可持续数天至数星期(例如50次洗发水或者等于约4个月)而不恢复其初始卷曲状态。这非常有利地与甲醛基配制剂相当。
例如,该方法提供以下属性中的一些或所有:
1.借助平烙铁活化以产生直、光滑、光亮的头发
2.保持发型至少24次洗发水洗涤和至多8或12星期(对于使用3次洗发水洗涤/星期的消费者而言),并且可以为至多50次洗发水洗涤或者等于约4个月或者更久
3.对高湿度具有抗性
4.与现有甲醛基头发拉直组合物相比对头发更少的热损害
5.低或者无挥发性有机化合物(VOC)
6.无甲醛
7.适用于所有头发类型,包括天然和化学处理头发
8.适用于家庭使用以及沙龙应用。
不意欲限制示例实施方案的范围,以下实施例阐述示例组合物的效力。
实施例
在以下实施例中,头发类型和卷曲性基于L’Oréal(RolanddelaMettrie等人“ShapeVariabilityandClassificationofHumanHair:AWorldwideApproach”,HumanBiology,2007年6月)公开的定义。这指定头发I-VIII的数字,其中I为最直的,且VIII表示浓密、非常卷曲的头发。一般而言,本文所用试样为卷曲的,归类为4-5型。在热拉直以后,发绺通常变成I型。然而,头发在洗涤以后松弛。如果在3-洗发水洗涤循环以后,发绺松弛至3-4型,这可被认为是无效的拉直(松弛)。
为模拟人类头上的头发,卷曲的巴西发绺由InternationalHairImporterandProductInc得到。各个单一发绺的重量为约2.5g且具有20cm长且最宽处10cm宽的近似尺寸。发绺各自在发梢夹持。
在使用以前,将各原深褐色卷曲发绺通过使用商业澄清洗发水(VO5TM或SuaveTM洗发水)温和地按摩30秒,其后用流动温水(35-38℃)冲洗60秒而洗涤。然后将各洗涤发绺在室温下在30-50%RH条件下干燥。
评估两种不同的应用方法:
1.溶液-浸渍
该方法主要用于筛选和选择备选分子作为可能的热活化剂。通常,在合适的溶剂体系中制备备选分子的溶液。将发绺以可控备选热活化剂浓度、pH、温度和浸泡时间如达60分钟完全浸入溶液中。然后将发绺从溶液中取出,挤压掉过量的水,并在热拉直以前将发绺吹干至至少95%干度。
2.霜底
将对溶液浸渍方法执行良好的备选热活化剂以如表2所示不同的浓度和pH并入阳离子乳液或霜底中:
表2:霜底配方
根据协议将产物施用于清洗的卷曲发绺上并使其静止。在可控施用时间以后,在热拉直以前将发绺吹干至至少95%干度。
为通过平烙铁热拉直,使用以商品名NanoTitaniumTM由BaBylissPRO出售的商业平烙铁。所用协议如下:
1.将平烙铁设置为目标温度(≤210℃)。
2.在约12秒内将热平烙铁从发绺顶部拉至底部。
3.为实现所需拉直水平,重复该热方法(例如在210℃下10-12程)。
在热拉直处理以后,使发绺冷却至室温。
洗涤牢度:洗发水洗涤牢度通过将洗发水(VO5或Suave洗发水)施用于发绺上,将其按摩30秒,其后用流动温水(32-35℃)冲洗60秒而进行。然后将洗涤的发绺在23℃和50%RH下干燥。不经干燥步骤而进行连续的洗发水洗涤循环。
耐湿性:在特定次数的洗发水洗涤以后将热拉直的发绺干燥,然后放入具有可控温度和%RH的湿度室中。
使用两种方法评估热拉直效率:
1.视觉评估:目测检查处理的发绺并与未处理的发绺对比。还进行与仅热处理的对照的对比。
2.图像分析:该方法可用于量化不同处理的卷曲发绺热拉直效率。可用该方法进行发绺长度和半长宽度的测量。
在以下初始筛选试验中,通过目测检查在包含至多30重量%备选热活化剂的溶液中处理45分钟,在210℃下平熨烫(10×12秒)的发绺而进行对热拉直发绺的检查。在三个连续洗涤循环以后,如果干发绺(23℃和50%RH)变得卷曲,则认为该材料是无效的,即不值得在霜配制剂进一步评估。
热破损量化:在特定次数的次洗发水洗涤以后将热拉直发绺干燥,然后放入具有可控温度和%RH的湿度室中。然后用梳子以恒定力从发根到发梢梳理单一发绺,并重复抚摸100次。在完成时,计数从发绺中破裂的头发纤维碎片用于对比。
结果
在第一评估(溶液基)中对比九组小分子:
1)环状碳酸酯:
a.碳酸亚乙酯(EC),
b.碳酸亚丙酯(PC),
c.碳酸甘油酯(GC),
d.碳酸亚丙酯(TC);
2)线性碳酸酯:
a.碳酸二甲酯,
b.碳酸二乙酯;
3)环状内酯:
a.γ-戊内酯,
b.δ-戊内酯,
c.ε-己内酯,
d.泛内酯;
4)环状内酰胺:
a.γ-丁内酰胺,
b.1-甲基-2-吡咯烷酮,
c.δ-戊内酰胺,
d.ε-己内酰胺;
5)其它杂环分子:
a.2-唑烷酮(O),
b.2-咪唑烷酮;
6)砜:
a.二甲砜,
b.环丁砜(2,3,4,5-四氢噻吩-1,1-二氧化物);
7)脲
a.脲(U),
b.亚乙基脲(EU)
8)二羟乙酸(GA),
9)甲醛(F)。
使用霜配制进一步评估所选择的备选分子。表3-5显示关于霜配制剂得到的一些结果,其中使用以下缩写:
初始头发状况:
NR=新接收的(原发)
PU=先前使用的(用于其它评估中,导致头发的一些损害)
洗发水处理:
S=恰在拉直以后的洗发水
L=在第一次洗涤以前保持整夜(12小时)
在完成处理协议以后进行目测观察。
表3:关于具有碳酸亚乙酯的霜配制剂的结果
表4:关于具有碳酸亚乙酯+碳酸亚丙酯的霜配制剂的结果
表5:关于具有碳酸亚丙酯的霜配制剂的结果
实施例21-27和32-36几乎不具有恶臭,并且是平滑、光滑和健康外观。在225℃以上的温度下拉直的实施例28-31显示一些损害,这可能是由于较高的温度。
结果证明拉直可通过浸泡时间、平烙铁温度和热活化剂浓度的选择实现。例如,提高的浸泡时间可补偿较低的烙铁温度和/或浓度。
图像分析
开发图像分析方法以评估示例热活化剂(碳酸亚乙酯、碳酸亚丙酯和唑烷酮)和其它小分子如甲醛、脲和二羟乙酸的热拉直效率。
关于其它试验,将卷曲的发绺浸入所选择的一种小分子的水溶液中并浸泡45分钟。各个溶液包含等摩尔量的所选择小分子。然后将发绺从溶液中取出,手动地挤压出过量的水,并如上所述在热拉直以前通过吹风机将头发干燥至所需干度。
使用图像分析方法测量在热拉直方法以前和以后以及在各洗发水洗涤循环以后发绺的总长度和宽度。更具体而言,相对于纯色背景用安装三脚架的数码相机取得发绺或发绺束的照片。选择照明以使可能影响测量的阴影最小化。将发绺从杆上悬垂,所述杆能使发绺旋转90度,使得图片可从四个不同的角度取得,提供发绺的全部视图,其中直尺作为比例尺安装在发绺附近。
TheNationalInstitutesforHealth’sImageJ软件程序用于图像加工和分析。表6显示长度和宽度(在半长处)。卷曲的发绺具有20cm的轮廓长度,且顶部粘结部分为2.0cm宽且为约0.4cm长。因此,有效的发绺轮廓长度为19.6cm。
因此,图像分析数据显示碳酸亚乙酯(EC)和碳酸亚丙酯(TC)类似于甲醛(F)和二羟乙酸(GA)行为,又不具有这些小分子引起的潜在危险。唑烷酮(O)得到比脲(U)和亚乙基脲(EU)更好的拉直结果。脲和亚乙基脲使卷曲发绺一定程度地松弛。来自该数据的关于半永久热拉直效率的分子排列为:
GA≈EC≈F≥TC>O>EU>U
表6:通过图像分析方法分析的热拉直效力
配制剂试验
在以下试验中,将碳酸亚乙酯或碳酸亚丙酯与各种商业头发处理产品混合并评估混合物的拉直效率。
将碳酸亚乙酯或碳酸亚丙酯在约40℃下熔融,将所得液体快速加入所选择的商品中并混合直至均匀。在以下试验中,混合物的EC或TC活性物质含量为15重量%至30重量%。
在使卷曲发绺经受与上文所述相同的热头发拉直方法以后,如表7所示,得到与以上关于简单水溶液所述试验得到的那些类似的拉直结果,表明头发拉直组合物可用多种常规头发处理辅助剂配制而不具有有害效应。基于目测检查,可以指出试验中所用商品在单独使用时都不提供长期半永久头发拉直效果,但一些提供初始拉直效果,其在单一洗涤以后失去。
表7:商品混合物
重量%热活化剂 | 拉直效率(洗发水洗涤循环次数) | |
商品A(凝胶配制剂,定型剂) | 15%EC | ≥30 |
商品B(毛躁减少剂) | 25%TC | ≥30 |
商品C(霜毛躁减少剂) | 20%EC | ≥30 |
商品D(霜发式定型配制剂) | 30%EC | ≥30 |
商品E(霜拉直配制剂) | 30%EC | ≥30 |
商品F(含角蛋白拉直配制剂) | 30%EC | ≥30 |
结果显示碳酸亚乙酯和碳酸亚丙酯与宽范围的组合物的相容性。
示例组合物
表8显示示例的喷雾配制。
表8:头发毛躁减少喷雾
表9显示示例的霜配制。
表9:发卷控制霜
表10显示另一示例配制剂。
表10:头发拉直体系
表11显示另一示例配制剂。
表11:闪光头发拉直
表12显示一种示例的凝胶配制剂。
表12:头发拉直凝胶
通过引用将以上提及的各文件全部并入本文中。除实施例中,或另外明确说明外,在本说明书中描述材料的量、反应条件、分子量、碳原子数等的所有数量应当理解被措辞“约”修饰。除非另有说明,本文提及的各个化学品或组合物应当理解为可含有异构体、副产物、衍生物和通常应当理解存在于商品级中的其它这类材料的商品级材料。然而,除非另有说明,各个化学组分的量表示为排除了通常可存在于商业材料中的任何溶剂或稀释油。应当理解本文所述量、范围和比的上限和下限可独立地组合。类似地,本发明各个元素的范围和量可以与任何其它元素的范围或量一起使用。如本文所用,表述“基本由…组成”容许包括不实质上影响所考虑的组合物的基本和新特征的物质。如本文所用,权利要求书可不包含一个种属(或列)的任何成员。
应当理解上述和其它特征和功能的变体或其等价物可组合成许多其它不同的体系或应用。本文各个目前未预见或未预料的替选方案、改进、变化或改善可随后由本领域技术人员做出,其也意欲包括在以下权利要求书中。
Claims (36)
1.拉直头发的方法,其包括:
将角蛋白纤维用包含热活化剂的组合物涂覆;和
使涂覆的角蛋白纤维与温度为至少185℃的加热装置接触足够的时间以将角蛋白纤维改性,
热活化剂具有通式:
其中:
A选自N和O;
R和R’相互独立地选自H、CH3、CH2CH3和CH2OH;
X和Y相互独立地选自H和烷基;且
n=0或1。
2.根据权利要求1的方法,其中组合物进一步包含溶剂。
3.根据权利要求1的方法,其中溶剂选自水、C1-C12醇及其组合。
4.根据权利要求1的方法,其中A=O。
5.根据权利要求1的方法,其中R和R’中的至少一个=H。
6.根据权利要求1的方法,其中n=0。
7.根据权利要求1的方法,其中热活化剂包含结构(III)通式的碳酸亚烷基酯:
8.根据权利要求1的方法,其中热活化剂包含1,3-二氧戊环-2-酮和1,3-二烷-2-酮中的至少一种。
9.根据权利要求8的方法,其中热活化剂包含选自碳酸亚乙酯、碳酸亚丙酯、碳酸亚丁酯和碳酸甘油酯的1,3-二氧戊环-2-酮。
10.根据权利要求8的方法,其中热活化剂包含碳酸亚乙酯。
11.根据权利要求8的方法,其中组合物包含至少5重量%碳酸亚乙酯。
12.根据权利要求8的方法,其中热活化剂包含1,3-二烷-2-酮,1,3-二烷-2-酮包括碳酸亚丙酯。
13.根据权利要求1的方法,其中热活化剂包含2-唑烷酮或其衍生物。
14.根据权利要求1的方法,其中n=1,且X和Y中的至少一个为H。
15.根据权利要求1的方法,其中热活化剂总计以组合物的少于70重量%存在。
16.根据权利要求1的方法,其中热活化剂总计以组合物的至少5重量%存在。
17.根据权利要求1的方法,其中组合物具有至多9.5的pH。
18.根据权利要求17的方法,其中组合物具有至多7.5的pH。
19.根据权利要求1的方法,其中组合物具有至少4.5的pH。
20.根据权利要求1的方法,其中组合物包含选自酸和碱的pH改进剂。
21.根据权利要求1的方法,其中组合物为水溶液或增稠霜的形式。
22.根据权利要求1的方法,其中组合物具有至少400cps的粘度。
23.根据权利要求1的方法,其中组合物包含流变改进剂和阳离子表面活性剂中的至少一种。
24.根据权利要求23的方法,其中组合物包含阳离子表面活性剂。
25.根据权利要求1的方法,其中加热装置包含平烙铁。
26.根据权利要求25的方法,其中平烙铁具有至少200℃的表面温度。
27.根据权利要求1的方法,其进一步包括在加热以前将角蛋白纤维干燥以除去至少一部分溶剂。
28.根据权利要求1的方法,其中将角蛋白纤维用组合物涂覆包括使角蛋白纤维与组合物接触至少30分钟。
29.根据权利要求1的方法,其中角蛋白纤维的改性导致纤维绺的长度提高至少5%。
30.用于将头发拉直的组合物,其包含:
溶剂;
至少15重量%热活化剂,
热活化剂具有结构(I)的通式:
其中:
A选自N和O;
R和R’相互独立地选自H、CH3、CH2CH3和CH2OH;
X和Y相互独立地选自H和烷基;且
n=0或1;和
阳离子表面活性剂和流变改进剂中的至少一种,
所述组合物具有小于7.5的pH和至少400cps的粘度。
31.根据权利要求30的组合物,其中所述热活化剂包含结构(III)通式的碳酸亚烷基酯:
32.根据权利要求31的组合物,其中在所述热活化剂中,R选自H、CH3、CH2CH3和CH2OH。
33.根据权利要求30、31或32的组合物,其中所述热活化剂选自碳酸亚乙酯、碳酸亚丙酯、碳酸亚丁酯、碳酸甘油酯及其组合。
34.根据权利要求30、31、32或33的组合物,其中所述热活化剂包含碳酸亚乙酯。
35.根据权利要求30、31、32、33或34的组合物,其中所述热活化剂为碳酸亚乙酯。
36.根据权利要求30-35的组合物在将头发拉直中的用途。
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- 2014-02-03 CN CN201480019246.1A patent/CN105073090B/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2014-02-03 KR KR1020157024088A patent/KR102197099B1/ko active IP Right Grant
- 2014-02-03 EP EP14705651.9A patent/EP2953610B1/en active Active
- 2014-02-03 BR BR112015018706A patent/BR112015018706B1/pt active IP Right Grant
- 2014-02-03 WO PCT/US2014/014409 patent/WO2014123805A1/en active Application Filing
- 2014-02-03 JP JP2015556199A patent/JP6452625B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2014-02-03 AU AU2014215569A patent/AU2014215569B2/en not_active Ceased
- 2014-02-03 CA CA2899597A patent/CA2899597A1/en not_active Abandoned
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CN112218612A (zh) * | 2018-04-12 | 2021-01-12 | 路博润先进材料公司 | 头发修饰组合物及其方法 |
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US9872824B2 (en) | 2018-01-23 |
WO2014123805A1 (en) | 2014-08-14 |
US20150374604A1 (en) | 2015-12-31 |
KR102197099B1 (ko) | 2020-12-30 |
AU2014215569A1 (en) | 2015-08-13 |
MX357773B (es) | 2018-07-24 |
CA2899597A1 (en) | 2014-08-14 |
JP2016507528A (ja) | 2016-03-10 |
KR20150113206A (ko) | 2015-10-07 |
BR112015018706A2 (pt) | 2017-07-18 |
MX2015010160A (es) | 2016-01-12 |
BR112015018706B1 (pt) | 2020-04-22 |
JP6452625B2 (ja) | 2019-01-16 |
EP2953610A1 (en) | 2015-12-16 |
AU2014215569B2 (en) | 2018-08-02 |
EP2953610B1 (en) | 2019-04-10 |
CN105073090B (zh) | 2018-10-16 |
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