CN103181862B - Composite moisturizing agent and application thereof - Google Patents
Composite moisturizing agent and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN103181862B CN103181862B CN201110453528.0A CN201110453528A CN103181862B CN 103181862 B CN103181862 B CN 103181862B CN 201110453528 A CN201110453528 A CN 201110453528A CN 103181862 B CN103181862 B CN 103181862B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a composite moisturizing agent characterized in comprising, by weight, 30-50% of glycerol, 15-30% of water, 12-15% of sodium lactate, 12-15% of PCA sodium, 3-10% of allantoin, 2-5% of beta-glucan, 0.5-2.5% of polyquaternium-51, and 0-1% of sodium hyaluronate. The composite moisturizing agent composition provided by the invention has a far better effect against skin water loss than those of independent applications of single components in the composition. The composition provided by the invention has a far better effect for skin elasticity than those of independent applications of single samples. Therefore, the components provide a synergetic effect. When the composition is compounded, skin moisture retention can be improved. Also, the composition provided by the invention has a far better effect in improving skin moisture retention than reference samples such as polyethylene glycol, ceramide, collagen, and chitin. Therefore, the composite moisturizing agent provided by the invention is a high-efficiency moisturizing agent.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, specifically composite humectant and application thereof.
Background technology
We are from biochemical viewpoint, the water content of skin moisture-keeping and skin, and effect and the epidermis of skin emollient keep the effect of moisture relevant.Under generic condition, when the water content of epidermis and its steaming pressure ratio surrounding height, moisture can be evaporated by skin surface and scatter and disappear; Under the condition of low humidity, or due to reasons such as lower layers of skin hydration deficiency and air flowings, cause the excessive dehydration of epidermis, skin just there will be xerosis shape.Only in drying, the skin surface of fragility applies one deck lipid material can not make epidermis soften, but exists even without lipid material, as long as skin re-starts hydration, and the softness that will become and flexible.Therefore think, in keratodermatitis, moisture maintains skin softness and elastic most important factor.
From physiological angle, the intercellular clayey of dry skin mesocuticle has defect.The pliability of skin is not only relevant with water content, and with skin contained by the quality of fat relevant.The diffusion of the barrier that lipid is formed controlled moisture turnover skin, lipid barrier is connected with keratin, and keratin makes water be combined with skin, contributes to scattering and disappearing of anti-sealing.Barrier action is physical action, depends on osmotic pressure and diffusion, i.e. humidity, cuticular thickness and integrity thereof.If skin barrier damages, transdermal moisture dissipation speed speeds.Epidermis is from basal layer, and between each layer, water content is in the trend reduced, and there is the concentration difference of water.When after the evaporation of outermost layer horny layer moisture, the moisture of internal layer, just to external diffusion, compensates the loss of cutin moisture.Hydrone may be dissolved in lipid, can permeate and by lipid layer, and this pattern can be described through scattering and disappearing (being called for short TEWL) of stratamocornium moisture preferably.
It is generally acknowledged that the mechanism of action of preserving moisture and protecting skin cosmetics can be divided into two kinds: one to be the oil film protective layer forming one deck closure at skin surface, reduce or stop moisture to evaporate from skin surface, making lower layers of skin diffuse to cuticular moisture and the further hydration of horny layer; Two is from air, absorb moisture make skin keep moistening, is better simply physical process, i.e. evaporation of water, diffusion and absorption.Wetting agent in cosmetics has water absorption, makes horny layer from top to bottom form steam gradient, supplements the loss that surface moisture evaporates to dry atmosphere environment.And some oils, directly can not make skin emolliency, be form closure oil film at skin surface, and horny layer softens indirectly, makes skin soft and moist.
In recent years, Elias proposes " fragment of brick-mud " model theory and explains cuticular labyrinth and function.
The main following a few class of wetting agent in cosmetics: polyalcohols wetting agent, hyaluronic acid wetting agent, lactic acid and sodium lactate, pyrrolidone sodium carboxylate, ceramide type wetting agent, amide-type wetting agent, glucose esters wetting agent, collagen protein class wetting agent, chitin derivative and chitosan etc.They are existing defects in some respects, such as: although the glycerol of the polyalcohols moisture absorbed in air reaches the effect of moisturizing, can not form the effect of protecting film and deep water supplement.The moisture retention of hyaluronic acid solution is embodied in the thin film forming viscoelasticity and has very strong water-retaining property (having water-retaining property as the hyaluronic acid in the intercellular matrix of skin conjunctive tissue), it is completely transparent, without remnant and greasy feeling, and have softness, the level and smooth sensation with lubricating.But it can not permeate the defect (even if the hyaluronic acid degradation thing of the short chain of 5 ~ 10 disaccharide units also not easily passs through horny layer of epidermis) of horny layer of epidermis.
Moisturizing mechanism due to skin suppresses moisture based on often being secreted the sebum film being coated on skin surface by sebaceous gland, through skin evaporation and the two kinds of effects being present in the water solublity hygroscopic component (being called nature moisturizing factor NMF) in horn cell.If Shortcomings in one aspect, will there will be and make xerosis cutis and coarse, the problem such as follow the string.
Summary of the invention
One object of the present invention is, in order to overcome various wetting agent existing defects, to provide a kind of composite humectant, and the moisture retention of this composite humectant to skin has potent effect.
To achieve these goals, technical scheme of the present invention is as follows: a kind of composite humectant, it is characterized in that by weight percentage, the proportioning of this composite humectant is: glycerol 30 ~ 50%, water 15 ~ 30%, sodium lactate 12 ~ 15%, Anjidew NL50 12 ~ 15%, allantoin 3 ~ 10%, beta glucan 2 ~ 5%, polyquaternary ammonium salt-510.5 ~ 2.5%, hyaluronate sodium 0 ~ 1%.
Another object of the present invention is to the application providing a kind of composite humectant, this composite humectant can be used for preparing moisturiser.
To achieve these goals, technical scheme of the present invention is as follows: a kind of application of composite humectant, it is characterized in that described composite humectant is for the preparation of moisturiser, in gross weight 100 parts, the weight of described composite humectant is 5 parts, this moisturiser comprises oil phase and aqueous phase, wherein oil phase comprises 5 ~ 10 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 0 ~ 5 part of liquid paraffin, 3 parts of Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, 2 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1.75 part cetearyl alcohol, 0.75 part of sodium polyacrylate, 1 part of hydrogenated polydecene, 0.5 part of PPG-5-laureth-5, 0.1 part of bisabolol, 0 ~ 1.5 part of glyceryl stearate, 0 ~ 1 part of PEG-100 stearate, aqueous phase comprises 0 ~ 3 part of PEG-20 methyl sesquistearate, 0 ~ 1.5 part of methyl sesquialter isostearate, 5 ~ 10 parts of butanediols, 3 ~ 8 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of described composite humectants, surplus is water.
Another object of the present invention is to the application providing a kind of composite humectant, this composite humectant can be used for preparing skin-moisturizing, skin breast.
To achieve these goals, technical scheme of the present invention is as follows: a kind of application of composite humectant, it is characterized in that described composite humectant is for the preparation of skin-moisturizing, skin breast, in gross weight 100 parts, the weight of described composite humectant is 5 parts, this skin-moisturizing, skin breast comprises oil phase and aqueous phase, wherein oil phase comprises 5 ~ 10 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 0 ~ 5 part of liquid paraffin, 3 parts of Parleam, 2 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.5 part of cetearyl alcohol, 0.25 part of sodium polyacrylate, 0.1 part of HANSHENGJIAO, 1 part of hydrogenated polydecene, 0.5 part of PPG-5-laureth-5, 0.1 part of bisabolol, 0 ~ 1.5 part of glyceryl stearate, 0 ~ 1 part of PEG-100 stearate, aqueous phase comprises 0 ~ 3 part of PEG-20 methyl sesquistearate, 0 ~ 1.5 part of methyl sesquialter isostearate, 5 ~ 10 parts of hydroxyethyl urea, 3 ~ 8 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of described composite humectants, 0.1 part of glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, surplus is water.
Composite humectant of the present invention improves a lot to skin moisture-keeping.The compositions of the composite humectant that the present invention obtains is scattered and disappeared to moisture of skin, than each composition in compositions be used alone will be good many.The compositions that the present invention obtains is to skin elasticity, more much higher than various A single sample, illustrates to have synergism between various sample, is conducive to composite for compositions the moisture retention improving skin.In addition, the present invention obtains compositions to raising skin moisture-keeping, and also than reference substance Polyethylene Glycol, ceramide, collagen protein, chitin is much improved to skin moisture-keeping.Therefore the composite humectant that the present invention obtains is a kind of potent wetting agent.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is that moisture of skin of the present invention scatters and disappears test chart.
Fig. 2 is elastic curve of the present invention and parameter declaration figure.
Detailed description of the invention
A kind of composite humectant, it is characterized in that by weight percentage, the proportioning of this composite humectant is: glycerol 30 ~ 50%, water 15 ~ 30%, sodium lactate 12 ~ 15%, Anjidew NL50 (Anjidew NL50 and original pyrrolidone sodium carboxylate) 12 ~ 15%, allantoin 3 ~ 10%: beta glucan 2 ~ 5%: polyquaternary ammonium salt-510.5 ~ 2.5%, hyaluronate sodium 0 ~ 1%.
According to the first embodiment of the present invention, this composite humectant 100g is by 30g glycerol, and 30g water, 12g sodium lactate, 12g Anjidew NL50,8g allantoin, 5g beta glucan, 2.5g polyquaternary ammonium salt-51,0.5g hyaluronate sodium forms.
According to a second embodiment of the present invention, this composite humectant 100g is by 40g glycerol, and 15g water, 15g sodium lactate, 15g Anjidew NL50,10g allantoin, 2.5g beta glucan, 2.5g polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 forms.
According to the third embodiment of the invention, this composite humectant 100g is by 50g glycerol, and 17g water, 13g sodium lactate, 13g Anjidew NL50,3g allantoin, 3g beta glucan, 0.5g polyquaternary ammonium salt-51,0.5g hyaluronate sodium forms.
According to a fourth embodiment of the invention, this composite humectant 100g is by 45g glycerol, and 20g water, 12g sodium lactate, 12g Anjidew NL50,8g allantoin, 2g beta glucan, 1g polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 forms.
According to a fifth embodiment of the invention, this composite humectant 100g is by 40g glycerol, and 25g water, 12g sodium lactate, 12g Anjidew NL50,5g allantoin, 4g beta glucan, 1.5g polyquaternary ammonium salt-51,0.5g hyaluronate sodium forms.
According to a sixth embodiment of the invention, this composite humectant 100g is by 33g glycerol, and 30g water, 12g sodium lactate, 12g Anjidew NL50,8g allantoin, 2g beta glucan, 2g polyquaternary ammonium salt-51,1g hyaluronate sodium forms.
The present invention relates to glycerol, sodium lactate, Anjidew NL50, allantoin, beta glucan, polyquaternary ammonium salt-51, the compositions of the many kinds of substances such as hyaluronate sodium is to the improve of skin moisture-keeping.According to the skin moisture-keeping mechanism of action, the present invention adopts the moisture of skin tester that scatters and disappears to measure the method for moisture through the method for skin windage and skin elasticity tester test skin elasticity.
Test instrunment: TM210Tewameter (moisture of skin scatter and disappear tester)
The method of inspection is as follows: tubular probe vertical is placed in 15S on tested skin, just can reading numerical values after measured value is stable, and instrument gathers TEWL data automatically, curve, meansigma methods and standard deviation.The meansigma methods of the numerical value of the different minute test of desirable several is final result.
Test condition: the health of testee is normal, and at 20 DEG C, relative humidity is under the condition of 40% ~ 60%, environment avoids air to flow, the minimum 30min in advance of testee enters in test environment quiet to be measured, and during test, whole body loosens, and takes the posture lain low.
Test result as shown in Figure 1.Can learn from figure, the compositions of the composite humectant that the present invention obtains is scattered and disappeared to moisture of skin, all will be good than single component arbitrary in compositions many.This figure further illustrates, the comprehensive and lasting effect of composite humectant.Composite humectant of the present invention is to the epidermis of skin, and corium and subcutaneous tissue three part, carry out moisturizing respectively.
Test instrunment: SEM575 type skin elasticity tester
Under the condition of 20 DEG C and 40% ~ 60% relative humidity, to keep constant negative-pressure model, as the elastic curve of Fig. 2 and parameter declaration figure are depicted as curve and the data of twice follow-on test.Wherein 0 ~ 1s is constant negative pressure, and 1 ~ 2s is for cancelling negative pressure, and skin recovers, and 2 ~ 4s is second time test curve figure.
In Fig. 2: ∪ f=∪ e+ ∪ v
The maximum tension amount of ∪ f------skin in formula;
∪ e-----------constant negative pressure is added to after on skin, and the amount of tension of skin during 0.1S, is decided to be elastic part amount of tension;
∪ v-----------∪ f-∪ e is the viscoelasticity part of skin, or is called plastic amount of tension.
After cancelling negative pressure, skin will recover ortho states rapidly, be divided into elastic part ∪ r value namely to cancel recovery value and the viscoelasticity partial value (or claiming plastic value) (∪ a-∪ r) of skin after negative pressure 0.1S equally, ∪ a be from cancel negative pressure to follow-on test skin surface next time again negative pressure time skin recovery value.
The compositions that the present invention obtains is to skin elasticity, more much higher than various A single sample, illustrates to have synergism between various sample, is conducive to composite for compositions the moisture retention improving skin.In addition, the present invention obtains compositions to raising skin moisture-keeping, and also than reference substance Polyethylene Glycol, ceramide, collagen protein, chitin is much improved to skin moisture-keeping, illustrates that the compositions that the present invention obtains is a kind of potent wetting agent.
Below more according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the application of composite humectant of the present invention is described.
Below by way of instantiation, the present invention is further illustrated, but these examples are only in order to illustrate, are not limitations of the present invention.
The preparation (in gross weight 100 parts) of embodiment one nourishing and moisturizing frost
Provide the moisturiser formula containing composite humectant compositions below, the consumption mass fraction of each material represents.
The preparation method of nourishing and moisturizing frost: by the component A mixing in formula table, be heated to 78 DEG C, fusing stirs, as oil phase; By the B component mixing in formula table, be heated to 78 DEG C, stirring and dissolving is even, as aqueous phase.Aqueous phase is added in oil phase, homogenizing 3 minutes after stirring, be incubated 20 minutes and stir when being cooled to 45 DEG C, stir, be cooled to 35 DEG C, be nourishing and moisturizing frost.Also containing appropriate essence and antiseptic in this nourishing and moisturizing frost, wherein antiseptic is one or more the combination in Methylisothiazolinone, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, phenoxyethanol (MXP), essence is also the essence of prior art, the content of antiseptic and essence is lower, in general 0.5% of gross weight is amounted to, this belongs to the content of prior art, does not repeat them here.
The preparation (in gross weight 100 parts) of embodiment two skin-moisturizing, skin emulsion
Show the skin-moisturizing, skin emulsion formulations provided containing composite humectant compositions, the consumption mass fraction of each material represents.
The preparation method of skin-moisturizing, skin breast: by the component A mixing in formula table, be heated to 78 DEG C, fusing stirs, as oil phase; By the B component mixing in formula table, be heated to 78 DEG C, stirring and dissolving is even, as aqueous phase.Aqueous phase is added in oil phase, homogenizing 3 minutes after stirring, be incubated 20 minutes and stir when being cooled to 45 DEG C, stir, be cooled to 35 DEG C, be skin-moisturizing, skin breast.Also appropriate essence and antiseptic can be contained in this nourishing and moisturizing frost, wherein antiseptic is one or more the combination in Methylisothiazolinone, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, phenoxyethanol (MXP), essence is also the essence of prior art, the content of antiseptic and essence is lower, in general within amounting to 0.5% of gross weight, this belongs to the content of prior art, does not repeat them here.
Prepare the moisture-keeping nutrient frost containing composite humectant compositions according to the formula one in embodiment one and do not contain each portion of moisture-keeping nutrient frost of composite humectant compositions, as experiment preparation, the former is sample, the latter is reference substance, selects 50 women of 20 years old ~ ~ 50 years old as object on probation.Sooner or later after washing one's face every day, at the left face of face and left hand forearm painting sample, at right face and right hand forearm painting reference substance.Use after January, use moisture of skin to scatter and disappear the evaluation result of tester and skin elasticity tester.
Standard: " ++ " represents that recording TEWL value should obviously reduce, and difference is larger, illustrates that moistening effect is fine; "+" represents that recording TEWL value reduces, and difference is little, and moistening effect has been described; "-" represents unchanged.
For each trier, skin elasticity tester is used to measure the elasticity using front and back forearm area skin.It is as shown in the table for result.
As seen from table, the cosmetics that with the addition of composite humectant of the present invention have the effect of good moisture retention.
Claims (3)
1. a composite humectant, is characterized in that by weight percentage, and the proportioning of this composite humectant is: glycerol 30 ~ 50%, water 15 ~ 30%, sodium lactate 12 ~ 15%, Anjidew NL50 12 ~ 15 %, allantoin 3 ~ 10%, beta glucan 2 ~ 5%, polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 0.5 ~ 2.5%, hyaluronate sodium 0 ~ 1%.
2. the application of a composite humectant as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that described composite humectant is for the preparation of moisturiser, it is 100 parts in gross weight, the weight of described composite humectant is 5 parts, this moisturiser comprises oil phase and aqueous phase, wherein oil phase comprises 5 ~ 10 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 0 ~ 5 part of liquid paraffin, 3 parts of Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, 2 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1.75 part cetearyl alcohol, 0.75 part of sodium polyacrylate, 1 part of hydrogenated polydecene, 0.5 part of PPG-5-laureth-5, 0.1 part of bisabolol, 0 ~ 1.5 part of glyceryl stearate, 0 ~ 1 part of PEG-100 stearate, aqueous phase comprises 0 ~ 3 part of PEG-20 methyl sesquistearate, 0 ~ 1.5 part of methyl sesquialter isostearate, 5 ~ 10 parts of butanediols, 3 ~ 8 parts of glycerol, and 5 parts of described composite humectants, surplus is water.
3. the application of a composite humectant as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that described composite humectant is for the preparation of skin-moisturizing, skin breast, it is 100 parts in gross weight, the weight of described composite humectant is 5 parts, this skin-moisturizing, skin breast comprises oil phase and aqueous phase, wherein oil phase comprises 5 ~ 10 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 0 ~ 5 part of liquid paraffin, 3 parts of Parleam, 2 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.5 part of cetearyl alcohol, 0.25 part of sodium polyacrylate, 0.1 part of HANSHENGJIAO, 1 part of hydrogenated polydecene, 0.5 part of PPG-5-laureth-5, 0.1 part of bisabolol, 0 ~ 1.5 part of glyceryl stearate, 0 ~ 1 part of PEG-100 stearate, aqueous phase comprises 0 ~ 3 part of PEG-20 methyl sesquistearate, 0 ~ 1.5 part of methyl sesquialter isostearate, 5 ~ 10 parts of hydroxyethyl urea, 3 ~ 8 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of described composite humectants, 0.1 part of glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, surplus is water.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201110453528.0A CN103181862B (en) | 2011-12-29 | 2011-12-29 | Composite moisturizing agent and application thereof |
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| CN201110453528.0A CN103181862B (en) | 2011-12-29 | 2011-12-29 | Composite moisturizing agent and application thereof |
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| CN103181862A CN103181862A (en) | 2013-07-03 |
| CN103181862B true CN103181862B (en) | 2015-03-18 |
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Families Citing this family (17)
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| CN103767971B (en) * | 2014-01-15 | 2015-11-18 | 陈海 | A kind of whitening and softening skin facial film and preparation method thereof |
| CN105232357B (en) * | 2014-07-11 | 2020-06-26 | 杭州泽芙雪化妆品有限公司 | Moisturizing cream for treating xeroderma and preparation method thereof |
| CN104434647B (en) * | 2014-11-17 | 2017-05-03 | 上海应用技术学院 | Nourishing and conditioning moisturizer containing highland barley beta-glucan and preparation method of moisturizer |
| CN104840400A (en) * | 2015-05-18 | 2015-08-19 | 中山安理汇日用品有限公司 | Skin care lotion formula with self corrosion-resistant property |
| CN105030564B (en) * | 2015-08-18 | 2017-12-26 | 广东轻工职业技术学院 | A kind of composition and its application with long-lasting moisturization |
| CN105616336A (en) * | 2015-12-14 | 2016-06-01 | 诺斯贝尔化妆品股份有限公司 | Naturally sourced composite moisturizing agent |
| AU2017218138B2 (en) * | 2016-02-12 | 2022-04-07 | Rodan & Fields Beauty, Llc | Moisturizing compositions and uses thereof |
| CN105853288A (en) * | 2016-05-05 | 2016-08-17 | 广州丹奇日用化工厂有限公司 | Hand cream for preventing hangnails of children |
| CN105902418A (en) * | 2016-05-19 | 2016-08-31 | 重庆苗秀生物科技股份有限公司 | Imitated sebum matrix, external preparation including imitated sebum matrix and application thereof |
| CN107802535B (en) * | 2017-11-14 | 2020-07-24 | 欧诗漫生物股份有限公司 | Skin-care face cream containing purple bamboo shoot and tea and preparation method of skin-care face cream |
| CN109846748A (en) * | 2018-11-02 | 2019-06-07 | 上海珈凯生物科技有限公司 | A kind of moisturiser containing black phycocolloid and preparation method thereof, application |
| CN113332171B (en) * | 2018-12-26 | 2022-06-03 | 南京林业大学 | Preparation method of organic-inorganic compound skin moisturizer |
| CN109528523B (en) * | 2018-12-28 | 2021-10-26 | 蓓悠清(广东)健康科技有限公司 | Amino acid facial cleanser |
| CN110731939A (en) * | 2019-11-19 | 2020-01-31 | 山东义才和锐生物技术有限公司 | moisturizing and skin-activating day cream and preparation method thereof |
| US11696888B2 (en) | 2020-05-27 | 2023-07-11 | Mary Kay Inc. | Topical compositions and methods |
| CN111773131A (en) * | 2020-08-13 | 2020-10-16 | 广州贝玛生物科技有限公司 | Cream containing high-concentration allantoin and preparation method thereof |
| CN117357414A (en) * | 2023-05-15 | 2024-01-09 | 配方化妆品科技(广州)有限公司 | Skin moisturizing and repairing composition containing urea factor |
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