CN110302101B - Moisturizing repair emulsion and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Moisturizing repair emulsion and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN110302101B CN110302101B CN201910588248.7A CN201910588248A CN110302101B CN 110302101 B CN110302101 B CN 110302101B CN 201910588248 A CN201910588248 A CN 201910588248A CN 110302101 B CN110302101 B CN 110302101B
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- China
- Prior art keywords
- moisturizing
- skin
- panthenol
- bisabolol
- caprylic
- Prior art date
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- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 82
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 35
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title abstract description 11
- 238000004945 emulsification Methods 0.000 title description 2
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-ZETCQYMHSA-N D-panthenol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCCO SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- WTVHAMTYZJGJLJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+)-(4S,8R)-8-epi-beta-bisabolol Natural products CC(C)=CCCC(C)C1(O)CCC(C)=CC1 WTVHAMTYZJGJLJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- RGZSQWQPBWRIAQ-CABCVRRESA-N (-)-alpha-Bisabolol Chemical compound CC(C)=CCC[C@](C)(O)[C@H]1CCC(C)=CC1 RGZSQWQPBWRIAQ-CABCVRRESA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- RGZSQWQPBWRIAQ-LSDHHAIUSA-N alpha-Bisabolol Natural products CC(C)=CCC[C@@](C)(O)[C@@H]1CCC(C)=CC1 RGZSQWQPBWRIAQ-LSDHHAIUSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 229940036350 bisabolol Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- HHGZABIIYIWLGA-UHFFFAOYSA-N bisabolol Natural products CC1CCC(C(C)(O)CCC=C(C)C)CC1 HHGZABIIYIWLGA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-URKRLVJHSA-N (2s,3r,4s,5s,6r)-2-[(2r,4r,5r,6s)-4,5-dihydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-6-[(2r,4r,5r,6s)-4,5,6-trihydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-3-yl]oxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxane-3,4,5-triol Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H](OC2[C@H](O[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]2O)CO)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-URKRLVJHSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 229920002498 Beta-glucan Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 17
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- UWJJYHHHVWZFEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(O)O UWJJYHHHVWZFEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
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- 235000018936 Vitellaria paradoxa Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 10
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- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N (±)-α-Tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCO HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 229930003427 Vitamin E Natural products 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-tocopherol Natural products CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC1CCC2C(C)C(O)C(C)C(C)C2O1 WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
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- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- OMIGHNLMNHATMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxyethyl prop-2-enoate Chemical compound OCCOC(=O)C=C OMIGHNLMNHATMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
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- 229930182478 glucoside Natural products 0.000 claims description 10
- 150000008131 glucosides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
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- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 claims description 10
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- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 10
- 229940082500 cetostearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 9
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- -1 polydimethylsiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
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- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
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- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940078812 myristyl myristate Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCC DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
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- 239000004909 Moisturizer Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
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- 230000007774 longterm Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000007246 mechanism Effects 0.000 description 3
- HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N α-D-glucopyranosyl-α-D-glucopyranoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)O1 HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-WSWWMNSNSA-N Trehalose Natural products O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-WSWWMNSNSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- CONKBQPVFMXDOV-QHCPKHFHSA-N 6-[(5S)-5-[[4-[2-(2,3-dihydro-1H-inden-2-ylamino)pyrimidin-5-yl]piperazin-1-yl]methyl]-2-oxo-1,3-oxazolidin-3-yl]-3H-1,3-benzoxazol-2-one Chemical compound C1C(CC2=CC=CC=C12)NC1=NC=C(C=N1)N1CCN(CC1)C[C@H]1CN(C(O1)=O)C1=CC2=C(NC(O2)=O)C=C1 CONKBQPVFMXDOV-QHCPKHFHSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- BIVBRWYINDPWKA-VLQRKCJKSA-L Glycyrrhizinate dipotassium Chemical compound [K+].[K+].O([C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O[C@@H]1O[C@H]1CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]3C(=O)C=C4[C@@H]5C[C@](C)(CC[C@@]5(CC[C@@]4(C)[C@]3(C)CC[C@H]2C1(C)C)C)C(O)=O)C([O-])=O)[C@@H]1O[C@H](C([O-])=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O BIVBRWYINDPWKA-VLQRKCJKSA-L 0.000 description 1
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- HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-LIZSDCNHSA-N alpha,alpha-trehalose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 HDTRYLNUVZCQOY-LIZSDCNHSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 125000000647 trehalose group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
- A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Biophysics (AREA)
- Molecular Biology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses moisturizing repair emulsion and a preparation method thereof, wherein the moisturizing repair emulsion comprises the following components: moisturizing restoratives, emollients, and moisturizers; the moisturizing repair agent comprises beta-glucan, D-panthenol and bisabolol in a weight ratio of 1-3:2-4:1-3; the emollient comprises emollient oil, wherein the emollient oil comprises butter of Butyrospermum parkii, hydrogenated polydecene, caprylic/capric triglyceride and hydrogenated lecithin in a weight ratio of 1-4:1-4:2-5:0.2-1.2; the humectant comprises glycerin and pentanediol in a ratio of 1-3:2-4. The moisturizing repair emulsion provided by the invention has a long-acting moisturizing repair effect, the moisturizing grease combination has the effects of promoting penetration, resisting inflammation and moisturizing skin, and the prepared product has the advantages of glossy appearance, excellent extensibility and easiness in application.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to a cosmetic composition and a preparation method thereof, and particularly relates to moisturizing repair emulsion and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Moisturizing is the most basic function of cosmetics, but the stratum corneum is challenged by external environment, such as ultraviolet rays, surfactants and the like, skin becomes sensitive and fragile, and becomes dry and desquamated, especially in autumn and winter, which is serious, consumers consider that skin is caused by water deficiency in the traditional sense, and moisturizing products on the market are mainly divided into two main categories: firstly, moisturizing effect brought by moisturizing and water-locking components; secondly, moisture preservation is used as a basis for carrying out other effects. These two classes of products rarely relate skin moisturization to barrier repair. The moisturizing and the barrier repairing complement each other, so that the active substances can penetrate the skin more easily to repair the skin barrier, and the barrier repairing can better moisturize the sebum membrane after the sebum membrane has normal function. And some products pursue low cost, the additive amount of active substances is low, the moisturizing component is single, only the instant moisturizing effect can be brought, and long-time moisturizing can not be carried out. When endogenous and exogenous factors cause barrier destruction and skin moisture content reduction, the moisturizing restoration agent with optimized proportion can relieve skin irritation, supplement moisture and reduce skin moisture loss. In the first prior art, a mask essence for deep moisturizing and barrier repair is provided, but the essence can only play a role in surface repair, has the same action mechanism as the existing moisturizing product, and cannot deeply repair the skin.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to: the invention aims to provide a moisturizing repair emulsion, which has the following advantages: the types and the amounts of the raw materials are strictly limited, and the skin moisturizing and repairing mechanism is met.
The technical scheme is as follows: the invention relates to moisturizing repair emulsion, which at least comprises the following components: moisturizing restoratives, emollients, and moisturizers; the moisturizing repair agent comprises beta-glucan, D-panthenol and bisabolol in a weight ratio of 1-3:2-4:1-3; the emollient comprises emollient oil, wherein the emollient oil comprises butter of Butyrospermum parkii, hydrogenated polydecene, caprylic/capric triglyceride and hydrogenated lecithin in a weight ratio of 1-4:1-4:2-5:0.2-1.2; the humectant comprises glycerin and pentanediol in a ratio of 1-3:2-4.
The beta-glucan, the D-panthenol and the bisabolol are selected as moisturizing restoratives, and the beta-glucan is natural high-polysaccharide, can form a transparent and breathable film on skin, has a macromolecular structure, can lock moisture, prevents moisture loss and has high-efficiency moisturizing property; d-panthenol is extremely well tolerated by the skin for external use, and many studies report its cosmetic effects including moisturizing, soothing, anti-inflammatory, etc., D-panthenol is an effective moisturizing agent for the stratum corneum, can penetrate the stratum corneum, supplement dextran, form a protective film on the surface, and enter the stratum corneum to retain water. D-panthenol can also reduce irritation by improving skin barrier function in addition to moisturizing; the bisabolol is water-soluble bisabolol, and can be used as an active ingredient for protecting skin and resisting inflammation. The three components are combined, the beta-glucan epidermis forms a film to lock water, D-panthenol passes through the stratum corneum to carry out internal moisturizing, the internal and external combinations are cooperated to carry out moisturizing, the panthenol can improve the skin barrier while moisturizing, and the bisabolol has anti-inflammatory effect and can have obvious effect on instant inflammation of the skin.
According to the invention, skin barrier is repaired while skin moisturizing is realized through the skin moisturizing grease, and caprylic acid/capric triglyceride in the skin moisturizing grease has a structure similar to that of the skin grease, so that the skin moisturizing grease is easily absorbed by the skin, and the skin is glossy; the butter is rich in unsaturated fatty acid extracted from fruits of the butter tree, can increase the moisturizing ability of skin, has a certain moisturizing effect on dry skin, and can also provide soft skin feel for the product; hydrogenated polydecene: colorless, odorless, transparent, and has high moistening and moisturizing properties, so that the product is easy to push away. Hydrogenated lecithin: the emulsion has the characteristics that the butter fruit oil in the four types of grease endows the emulsion with soft skin feel, the hydrogenated polydecene endows the product with easy push-away property, the caprylic/capric triglyceride is easy to be absorbed by skin, the grease required by the skin is quickly supplemented, and the hydrogenated lecithin can promote the active matter to further permeate into the stratum corneum. The four grease combinations serve as carriers of active substances to transport the active substances to deep skin, and besides, the four grease combinations have the effects of moisturizing and repairing and have non-sticky and high-grade skin feel.
Preferably, the moisturizing repair emulsion consists of the following components in percentage by weight:
moisturizing restoratives: 1-3% beta-glucan, 2-4%D-panthenol and 1-3% bisabolol;
an emollient: 1-4% of shea butter, 1-3% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-4% of hydrogenated polydecene, 1-3% of myristyl myristate, 1-3% of vitamin E, 2-5% of caprylic/capric triglyceride and 0.2-1.2% of hydrogenated lecithin;
humectant: 1-3% glycerol and 2-4% pentanediol;
thickening stabilizer: 0.1-0.16% hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and 0.03-0.06% xanthan gum;
emulsifying agent: 1-3% cetostearyl glucoside, 1-3% glyceryl stearate, and 1-3% cetostearyl alcohol;
preservative: 0.3-1% of a glycol;
the balance being water.
Preferably, the β -glucan: d-panthenol: the weight ratio of the bisabolol is 1:2:1.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the shea butter, the hydrogenated polydecene, the caprylic/capric triglyceride and the hydrogenated lecithin is 2:2:2:1.
Preferably, the emollient is selected from the group consisting of butter fruit, dimethicone, hydrogenated polydecene, myristyl alcohol myristate, vitamin E, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and hydrogenated lecithin in an amount of 10-13% by weight based on the total weight of the product; most preferably, the emollient comprises 12% by weight of the product.
Preferably, the moisturizing repair emulsion consists of the following components in percentage by weight:
moisturizing restoratives: 1% beta-glucan, 2% d-panthenol and 1% bisabolol;
an emollient: 2% of fruit butter of Butyrospermum parkii, 1-3% of polydimethylsiloxane, 2% of hydrogenated polydecene, 1-3% of myristyl myristate, 1-3% of vitamin E, 2% of caprylic/capric triglyceride and 1% of hydrogenated lecithin;
humectant: 1-3% glycerol and 2-4% pentanediol;
thickening stabilizer: 0.1-0.16% hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and 0.03-0.06% xanthan gum;
emulsifying agent: 1-3% cetostearyl glucoside, 1-3% glyceryl stearate, and 1-3% cetostearyl alcohol;
preservative: 0.3-1% of a glycol;
the balance being water.
Preferably, the moisturizing repair emulsion consists of the following components in percentage by weight:
moisturizing restoratives: 1% beta-glucan, 2% d-panthenol and 1% bisabolol;
an emollient: 2% shea butter, 2% polydimethylsiloxane, 2% hydrogenated polydecene, 2% myristyl myristate, 1% vitamin E, 2% caprylic/capric triglyceride, and 1% hydrogenated lecithin;
humectant: 2% glycerol and 3% pentanediol;
thickening stabilizer: 0.1% hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and 0.05% xanthan gum;
emulsifying agent: 2% cetostearyl glucoside, 1% glyceryl stearate, 1% cetostearyl alcohol;
preservative: 0.5% of a glycol;
the balance being water.
The preparation method of the moisturizing repair emulsion comprises the following steps:
(1) Heating and stirring water, glycerol, pentanediol and xanthan gum to 85-90 ℃, and dissolving to obtain a phase A completely;
(2) Heating hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, cetostearyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, cetostearyl alcohol, butter fruit, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polydecene, myristyl alcohol myristate, vitamin E, caprylic/capric triglyceride and hydrogenated lecithin to 85-90 ℃ to dissolve completely to obtain phase B;
(3) Adding phase B, homogenizing and emulsifying for 8-10min, stirring, cooling to 40-45deg.C, and adding beta-dextran, D-panthenol, bisabolol and neodiol.
The beneficial effects are that: (1) The invention accords with the skin moisturizing and repairing mechanism by strictly limiting the types and the dosage of raw materials; (2) The moisturizing and repairing skin emulsion has the effects of long-acting moisturizing and repairing through the moisturizing and repairing agent combination, and the moisturizing grease combination has the effects of promoting penetration, resisting inflammation and moisturizing skin, so that the prepared product has glossy appearance, excellent extensibility and easy application; (3) The invention realizes the short-term increase of the water retention of the horny layer, the improvement of ecdysis in the middle stage and the strengthening of the skin barrier function in the long term.
Detailed Description
The above-described matters of the present invention will be further described in detail by way of examples, and it should not be construed that the scope of the above-described subject matter of the present invention is limited to the following examples, but the technologies based on the above-described matters of the present invention are all within the scope of the present invention.
The experimental methods used in the following examples are all conventional methods unless otherwise specified; reagents, materials, instruments and the like used in the examples described below are commercially available unless otherwise specified.
1. Preparation method
(1) Heating and stirring water, glycerol, pentanediol and xanthan gum to 85 ℃, and dissolving to obtain phase A completely.
(2) Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, cetostearyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, cetostearyl alcohol, butter fruit, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polydecene, myristyl alcohol myristate, vitamin E, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and hydrogenated lecithin are heated to 85deg.C and dissolved to obtain phase B.
(3) Adding phase B, homogenizing and emulsifying for 8min, stirring and cooling to 45deg.C, adding beta-dextran, D-panthenol, bisabolol and neodiol68T)。
2. Product preparation
According to the preparation method of the first part, the moisturizing skin lotion is prepared by weight percent of each formula in table 1, and the balance is water.
TABLE 1 product composition (in weight percent)
Note that: in Table 1, the component of comparative example 4 was replaced with trehalose for the beta-glucan, D-panthenol and bisabolol components.
3. Product inspection
3.1 skin moisturizing efficacy test
Volunteers between 20-40 years old were healthy, had no history of skin disease or allergy, and the subjects did not use any cosmetic or pharmaceutical products prior to testing. The subjects were required to clean the site to be tested 1 hour before testing, and were stable for at least 30 minutes before testing, and the test environment was recorded. Each subject used a sample on the front side of the arm and the moisture content and the transepidermal water loss were measured 1, 4, and 8 hours before and after the sample use.
(1) Human skin moisture content (MMV) test
And (3) marking test points: the test area (5 cm. Times.5 cm) was marked on the inside of the arm of each subject with a mold, holes were dug in the mold, the test point positions of the test probes were marked, and the samples were evenly applied to the test area of the arm. The test was performed by a capacitance method, the test site was the front side of the arm, and each test area was measured 3 times in parallel, and the average value was obtained. Blank values (0 h) of each test area were measured first, and then the emulsions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 5 of the present invention were uniformly applied to the test areas, respectively. After smearing, measuring MMV values of the tested area at 1h, 4h and 8h respectively, subtracting a blank value from the average value detected each time to obtain a change value of the MMV value in the period, and removing the blank value to obtain the increase rate of the MMV value. The results are shown in Table 2:
TABLE 2 determination of skin MMV value variation during skin t period
t/h | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Comparative example 3 | Comparative example 4 | Comparative example 5 |
1 | 55.3% | 54.2% | 48.2% | 30.4% | 36.1% | 22.3% | 20.3% | 30.5% |
4 | 57.2% | 58.6% | 50.4% | 28.3% | 32.5% | 17.2% | 18.2% | 26.6% |
8 | 56.9% | 52.3% | 47.3% | 25.1% | 30.2% | 13.9% | 15.6% | 20.3% |
The test results showed that the moisture-retaining restoratives in examples 1, 2, 3 and 5 were gradually increased in content, but from the standpoint of data, the embodiment 1 was not greatly different from the embodiment 2, and from the standpoint of cost, the embodiment 1 scheme was preferred, whereas the moisture-retaining effects in examples 3 and 5 were reduced, because the viscosity of the product was increased as the content of β -glucan, D-panthenol and the like was increased, the skin feel of the product was decreased, the components likely to be absorbed by the skin was decreased to cause poor long-term moisture-retaining effects, or the moisture absorption by the skin was no longer continued after reaching a certain value to cause a lower value. The moisturizing effects of comparative example 1, comparative example 2 and comparative example 3 are not as good as those of example 1, which means that the effect of using three raw materials alone is not as good as the mixing effect of the three raw materials, and that a single raw material such as dextran may have a good instant moisturizing effect, and the value is reduced along with the change of time, and only bisabolol is added in comparative example 3, and the raw materials are mostly used for relief repair, so the moisturizing effect is poor. The moisturizing repair composition in comparative example 4 was replaced with the currently common moisturizing polysaccharide trehalose, and the results show that the moisturizing repair composition has a lower moisturizing effect than that of example 1, and in summary, the moisturizing repair emulsion provided in example 1 has an optimal long-term moisturizing effect on skin and can maintain a stable moisturizing effect.
(2) Determination of moisture transdermal loss
Skin moisture loss (TEWL) is very important for assessing the function of the skin moisture protective layer, the better the red energy of the skin moisture protective layer, the higher the moisture content. Skin barrier repair may be represented by TEWL.
And (3) marking test points: the test area (5 cm. Times.5 cm) was marked on the inside of the arm of each subject with a mold, holes were dug in the mold, the test point positions of the test probes were marked, and the samples were evenly applied to the test area of the arm. The configured plastic foil aid is mounted on the probe. Pressing the "start" button initiates the TEWL measurement. The test time is 30-40 seconds by default, the test part is the front side of the arm, and each test area is measured for 3 times in parallel, and the average value is obtained.
The results are shown in Table 3:
TABLE 3 skin TEWL value measurement results at skin t period
From table 3, it can be seen that the TEWL value of example 1 is the lowest, indicating that example 1 has a better skin barrier repair effect, examples 2, 3, and comparative example 5 times, because the complex contents of examples 2, 3, and comparative example 5 are increased to reach the peak of skin absorption, and the viscosity of the active is increased after the D-panthenol and β -glucan amount is increased, preventing the continued absorption of the active. The value of the comparative example 3 is superior to that of the comparative example 4, and the analysis is that the bisabolol is added in the comparative example 3, so that the bisabolol has anti-inflammatory effect, can quickly repair skin barriers, can increase the water retention rate of skin after the skin barriers are repaired, and can reduce the water loss of skin.
4. The invention relates to a characteristic test of moisturizing skin emulsion
4.1 preparation of the product
Example 1, comparative examples 6-8, and the balance water were prepared according to the weight percentages of the components of table 4.
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Heating and stirring water, glycerol, pentanediol, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and xanthan gum to 85 ℃, and dissolving to obtain phase A.
(2) The hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, cetostearyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, cetostearyl butter, dimethicone, hydrogenated polydecene, myristyl alcohol myristate, vitamin E, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated lecithin were heated to 85deg.C and dissolved to obtain phase B.
(3) Homogenizing and emulsifying phase B in phase A for 8min, stirring and cooling to 45deg.C, adding oat glucan, D-panthenol, bisabolol and panaxadiol68T)。
The moisturizing skin emulsion provided in example 1 of the present invention has good extensibility and absorbability, and caprylic/capric triglyceride is easily absorbed by skin according to the products prepared in Table 4; the butter can provide soft skin feel for the product; hydrogenation of polydecene makes the product easy to push away. The hydrogenated lecithin promotes the absorption of active substances, and the four kinds of grease are matched with the skin care cream to have the effects of moisturizing and repairing and have non-sticky high-grade skin feel.
Table 4 product composition (in weight%)
4.2 evaluation of products
Ductility: 0.05mL of product was extruded at the 0 scale of the pad, towed using a coating bar, and the length of the trailing trace was observed. 8-10cm indicates that the ductility is still good, and no prominence is calculated; the ductility of 11-15cm is better; more than 15cm is excellent in ductility.
Absorption degree: the paste with the size of rice grains is taken at the front side of the arm, and is dragged by a finger to linearly smear back and forth within the range of 5cm at the front side of the arm. The number of the rubbing is more than 10 to indicate slow absorption, 5 to 10 to indicate better absorption and less than 5 to indicate better absorption.
Greasy condition: collecting rice-sized paste at front side of arm, uniformly applying, and collecting paste 0.5m 3 The paper sheets of the (B) are pasted on the paste to see whether the paper sheets can be pasted on the skin or not, if the paper sheets can not be pasted on the skin, the non-greasy condition of the product is indicated, and if the paper sheets are pasted on the skin, the greasy condition of the product is indicated.
The commercial products were selected for comparison with the emulsions provided in inventive example 1, examples 4-6, and the results are shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 evaluation results of emulsion Properties
From Table 5, it can be seen that the moisturizing repair emulsion of example 1 has good extensibility, good absorbency, and no greasy condition, and example 4 has a poor skin feel, particularly greasy, due to excessive oil. Example 5 reduced the content of hydrogenated polydecene, increased the content of caprylic/capric triglyceride, butter fruit fat, resulted in a slightly greasy skin feel and was not easily pushed open. Example 6 the content of the four oils was reduced so that the product was too dry to be applied, without a skin feel, which was a firm skin feel. From the amounts of emollients used in examples 1 and 4-6, it can be seen that the preferred level of emollients in the present product is 12-13%, most preferably 12% by weight of the total product, and thus the best oil formulation in example 1.
The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the invention in any way, and any person skilled in the art may make modifications or alterations to the disclosed technical content to the equivalent embodiments. However, any simple modification, equivalent variation and variation of the above embodiments according to the technical substance of the present invention still fall within the protection scope of the technical solution of the present invention.
Claims (5)
1. The moisturizing repair emulsion is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: moisturizing restoratives: 1-3% of beta-glucan, 2-4% of D-panthenol and 1-3% of bisabolol; an emollient: 1-4% of shea butter, 1-3% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-4% of hydrogenated polydecene, 1-3% of myristyl alcohol myristate, 1-3% of vitamin E, 2-5% of caprylic/capric triglyceride and 0.2-1.2% of hydrogenated lecithin; humectant: 1-3% of glycerol and 2-4% of pentanediol; thickening stabilizer: 0.1-0.16% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and 0.03-0.06% of xanthan gum; emulsifying agent: 1-3% of cetostearyl glucoside, 1-3% of glyceryl stearate and 1-3% of cetostearyl alcohol; preservative: 0.3-1% of a glycol; the balance being water; the beta-glucan: d-panthenol: the weight ratio of the bisabolol is 1:2:1.
2. The moisturizing repair emulsion of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of shea butter, hydrogenated polydecene, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and hydrogenated lecithin is 2:2:2:1.
3. The moisturizing repair emulsion of claim 1, wherein the moisturizing repair emulsion is composed of the following components in percentage by weight: moisturizing restoratives: 1% beta-glucan, 2% d-panthenol and 1% bisabolol; an emollient: 2% of fruit butter of Butyrospermum parkii, 1-3% of polydimethylsiloxane, 2% of hydrogenated polydecene, 1-3% of myristyl myristate, 1-3% of vitamin E, 2% of caprylic/capric triglyceride and 1% of hydrogenated lecithin; humectant: 1-3% of glycerol and 2-4% of pentanediol; thickening stabilizer: 0.1-0.16% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and 0.03-0.06% of xanthan gum; emulsifying agent: 1-3% of cetostearyl glucoside, 1-3% of glyceryl stearate and 1-3% of cetostearyl alcohol; preservative: 0.3-1% of a glycol; the balance being water.
4. The moisturizing repair emulsion of claim 1, wherein the moisturizing repair emulsion is composed of the following components in percentage by weight: moisturizing restoratives: 1% beta-glucan, 2% d-panthenol and 1% bisabolol; an emollient: 2% shea butter, 2% polydimethylsiloxane, 2% hydrogenated polydecene, 2% myristyl myristate, 1% vitamin E, 2% caprylic/capric triglyceride, and 1% hydrogenated lecithin; humectant: 2% glycerol and 3% pentanediol;
thickening stabilizer: 0.1% hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and 0.05% xanthan gum;
emulsifying agent: 2% cetostearyl glucoside, 1% glyceryl stearate, 1% cetostearyl alcohol; preservative: 0.5% of a glycol; the balance being water.
5. The method for preparing moisturizing repair emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) Heating and stirring water, glycerol, pentanediol and xanthan gum to 85-90 ℃, and dissolving to obtain a phase A completely;
(2) Heating hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, cetostearyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, cetostearyl alcohol, butter fruit, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polydecene, myristyl alcohol myristate, vitamin E, caprylic/capric triglyceride and hydrogenated lecithin to 85-90 ℃ to dissolve completely to obtain a phase B;
(3) Adding phase B into phase A, homogenizing and emulsifying for 8-10min, stirring and cooling to 40-45 ℃, and adding beta-glucan, D-panthenol, bisabolol and neodiol.
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CN111329802B (en) * | 2020-03-03 | 2023-11-07 | 澳美制药厂有限公司 | Skin moisturizing emulsion and preparation method thereof |
CN111568847A (en) * | 2020-05-30 | 2020-08-25 | 杭州心悦化妆品有限公司 | Emulsion easy to be absorbed by skin and production process thereof |
CN111568782B (en) * | 2020-06-15 | 2023-02-24 | 花安堂生物科技集团有限公司 | Nanoemulsion composition capable of improving skin barrier and application thereof |
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