CN102552065B - Carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream, preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents
Carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream, preparation method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN102552065B CN102552065B CN2012100240025A CN201210024002A CN102552065B CN 102552065 B CN102552065 B CN 102552065B CN 2012100240025 A CN2012100240025 A CN 2012100240025A CN 201210024002 A CN201210024002 A CN 201210024002A CN 102552065 B CN102552065 B CN 102552065B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream, its preparation method and its application. The carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream comprises the following components: water as a solvent, a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and C12-20 alkyl glucoside, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate as an emulsifier, caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane and ring polydimethylsiloxane as a softener, carboxymethyl yeast dextran, propylene glycol, xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, panthenol, methyl hydroxybenzoate, EDTA disodium, triethanolamine, daily used essence and phenoxyethanol. The preparation method comprises the following steps: mixing the emulsifier and the softener and heating to 80 DEG C, stirring and dissolving, dissolving propylene glycol, xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, panthenol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and EDTA disodium in water and adding the mixture of the emulsifier and the softener, dissolving at 85 DEG C, homogenizing with high speed, defoaming, cooling, adding triethanolamine, adding other raw materials at 45 DEG C, standing for 12 hours at 39 DEG C, and filtering by a sieve with 200 meshes to obtain the product. The carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream has the efficacy of moisture retention, skin moisten, aging resistance and the like, and can be used for daily nursing eyes.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the cosmetics technical field, be specifically related to a kind of carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream and its preparation method and application.
Background technology
Yeast dextran is a kind ofly with the 1-3 glycosidic bond, to be connected to the master, contain the branch that a small amount of 1-6 glycosidic bond connects, macromolecule polysaccharide with triple helix tight structure, yeast from discarded beer yeast cells wall separation, glucosan has been realized industrialization, and product is applied to the immunoactivator of body-care food and animal feed.Research is discovery also, and yeast dextran can accelerate skin wound healing, and good skin moisture-keeping performance and crease-resistant, anti-senescence function are arranged simultaneously, and good application prospect is arranged aspect skin care item.
Though the insoluble yeast dextran energy of alkali water absorption and swelling, but be insoluble in water, also be insoluble to the common solvent such as ethanol, thereby limited application aspect skin care item, method by chemical modification is introduced special chemical group, be the conventional means that increases the slightly water-soluble high molecular polymer, as Sulfation, Phosphation, carboxy methylation etc., wherein comparatively the human safety of maturation and product is high for the carboxy methylation technology of polysaccharide always.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of carboxy methylation that contains to modify the eye skin care item of glucosan, i.e. a kind of carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream.
Another object of the present invention is to provide the preparation method of above-mentioned carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream.
Another purpose of the present invention is to provide the application of above-mentioned carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream.
We adopt the carboxymethyl yeast dextran to overcome the water-fast problem of yeast dextran, add in the eye skin care item, obtain the cosmetics that compatibility is good, effect is good.
The present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions above-mentioned purpose:
a kind of carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream, formed by following raw material, by the quality percentage composition, be respectively: water 70.00 ~ 85.00%, the mixture 0.50 ~ 4.00% of the pure and mild C12 of cetearyl alcohol ~ 20 alkyl androstanediol, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 1.00 ~ 3.00%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 3.00 ~ 8.00%, squalane 1.00 ~ 5.00%, polydimethylsiloxane 0.50 ~ 3.00%, Cyclomethicone 1.00 ~ 4.00%, mass percentage concentration is 1% carboxymethyl yeast dextran pure water solution 0.10 ~ 10.00%, propylene glycol 2.00 ~ 5.00%, xanthan gum 0.10 ~ 2.00%, carbomer 0.01 ~ 5.00%, hydroxyethyl-cellulose 0.01 ~ 1.00%, pantothenylol 0.10 ~ 1.00%, methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.05 ~ 0.30%, EDETATE SODIUM 0.01 ~ 0.50%, triethanolamine 0.10 ~ 2.00%, essence 0.01 ~ 0.50%, phenoxyethanol 0.01 ~ 1.00%.
as a kind of preferred version, above-mentioned carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream is calculated and forms by the quality percentage composition by following raw material: water 70.75 ~ 74.30%, (mass ratio of the pure and mild C12 of cetearyl alcohol ~ 20 alkyl androstanediol is 3 ~ 5:5 ~ 7 to the mixture of the pure and mild C12 of cetearyl alcohol ~ 20 alkyl androstanediol, preferred mass ratio is 4:6) 2.00 ~ 3.00%, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 1.20 ~ 2.20%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 4.00 ~ 6.00%, squalane 2.00 ~ 3.00%, polydimethylsiloxane 2.00 ~ 3.00%, Cyclomethicone 2.00 ~ 3.00%, mass percentage concentration is 1% carboxymethyl yeast dextran pure water solution 3.50 ~ 4.00%, propylene glycol 3.50 ~ 5.00%, xanthan gum 0.20 ~ 0.30%, carbomer 0.20 ~ 0.40%, hydroxyethyl-cellulose 0.20 ~ 0.30%, pantothenylol 0.50 ~ 0.60%, methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.10 ~ 0.16%, EDETATE SODIUM 0.08 ~ 0.12%, triethanolamine 0.20 ~ 0.40%, essence 0.05 ~ 0.10%, phenoxyethanol 0.50 ~ 0.60%.
In above-mentioned formula, C12 ~ 20 alkyl androstanediol refer to the alkyl androstanediol of carbon number in 12 ~ 20 scopes.Caprylic/capric triglyceride is the mixture of Trivent OCG and tricaprin, and this product I NCI name is called: CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE; No. CAS: 65381-09-1; 73398-61-5, can directly buy in market.Essence refers to can use in article of everyday use such as food, articles for washing, skin care item or cosmetics, can give the reagent of the certain odor type of article of everyday use, can be natural essence or compound essence.
In above-mentioned formula, the mixture of the pure and mild C12 of cetearyl alcohol ~ 20 alkyl androstanediol, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate are mainly as emulsifying agent; Caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane and Cyclomethicone use as emollient; Carboxymethyl yeast dextran and propylene glycol and pantothenylol are skin conditioning agent; Xanthan gum and carbomer are thickening stabilizing agent; Hydroxyethyl-cellulose is the skinfeel regulator; Methyl hydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol are antiseptic, and EDETATE SODIUM is chelating agen, and triethanolamine is used for regulating pH value, and essence uses as aromatic.
The preparation method of above-mentioned carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream, step is as follows:
(1) first all production equipments and apparatus are cleaned, disinfect;
(2) with the mixture of the pure and mild C12 of cetearyl alcohol ~ 20 alkyl androstanediol, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane and Cyclomethicone mix and blend, heat to 80 ℃, obtain mixture after stirring predissolve fully standby;
(3) add respectively propylene glycol, xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, pantothenylol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and EDETATE SODIUM in 85 ℃ of pure water, stirring and dissolving is complete, be aided with high speed homogenization (2000-5000 rev/min) 5 minutes, insulation 20min stirs and obtains mixed liquor;
(4) mixture of step (2) is joined in the mixed liquor of step (3), stirred after 3 minutes high speed homogenization (2000-5000 rev/min) 5 minutes, insulation 20min, emulsifying froth breaking;
(5) lower the temperature after froth breaking, add triethanolamine in the time of 70 ℃, rear continuation cooling stirs;
While (6) cooling to 45 ℃, then add respectively carboxymethyl yeast dextran, essence and phenoxyethanol, continue to be cooled to 39 ℃ after stirring and dissolving is complete;
(7) standing 12 hours, 200 orders filtered discharging and obtain semi-finished product.
(8) semi-finished product are through being up to the standards after (cosmetic field be correlated with routine inspection), get the packaging material that cleaning and sterilizing crosses and carry out fill under clean environment, and assemble each accessory by product requirement and form product;
(9) product is tested (cosmetics finished product be correlated with routine inspection), warehousing after passing.
Carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream of the present invention can be used for preventing circumference of eyes skin aging, desalination wrinkle, increases skin elasticity or increase the skin moisture-keeping degree, is the good nursing product of circumference of eyes skin.
Compared with prior art, the present invention has following beneficial effect:
Preparation method of the present invention is simple to operation, preparation condition is gentle, can not destroy the effect of formula components, the carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream exquisite quality for preparing, but rapid osmotic skin, have and prevent that better eye part skin is aging, the effect of increase skin vitality than other like products, and high to human safety, have wide market prospect.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1
production weight 50kg, each raw material and weight are: water 37.15kg(74.30%), the mixture 1.00kg(2.00% that the pure and mild C12 of cetearyl alcohol ~ 20 alkyl androstanediol are mixed with for 4:6 in mass ratio), PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 1.10kg(2.20%), caprylic/capric triglyceride 2.5kg(5.00%), squalane 1.00kg(2.00%), polydimethylsiloxane 1.00kg(2.00%), Cyclomethicone 1.5kg(3.00%), mass percentage concentration is 1% carboxymethyl yeast dextran pure water solution 1.8kg(3.60%), propylene glycol 1.75kg(3.50%), xanthan gum 0.13kg(0.26%), carbomer 0.10kg(0.20%), hydroxyethyl-cellulose 0.15kg(0.30%), pantothenylol 0.25kg(0.50%), methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.08kg(0.16%), EDETATE SODIUM 0.04kg(0.08%), triethanolamine 0.10kg(0.20%), essence 0.05kg(0.10%), phenoxyethanol 0.30kg(0.60%).
To produce the cleaning and sterilizings such as required utensil, equipment standby.First the mixture of the pure and mild C12-20 alkyl androstanediol of cetearyl alcohol, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane and Cyclomethicone are stirred and are warmed up to 80 ℃ in oil cauldron, the stirring predissolve is fully standby.Add water in main cooker, be warming up to 85 ℃, then propylene glycol, xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, pantothenylol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and EDETATE SODIUM are joined respectively in main cooker, stirring and dissolving is complete, be aided with high speed (2500 rev/mins) homogenizing 5 minutes, insulated and stirred 20 minutes.The mixture of several materials in the oil cauldron of handling well is slowly joined in main cooker, stir after 3 minutes, opened high speed (2500 rev/mins) homogenizing 5 minutes, be incubated 20 minutes emulsifying froth breakings.Start cooling after insulation finishes, in the time of 70 ℃, triethanolamine is joined, rear continuation cooling stirs.With mass percentage concentration, be during 1% carboxymethyl yeast dextran pure water solution, daily essence and phenoxyethanol join main cooker respectively 45 ℃ of left and right, stirring and dissolving continues to be cooled to 39 ℃ after fully.
Qualified rear standing 12 hours of the said goods self check, then cross 100 orders filtration dischargings and obtain semi-finished product, the qualified rear fill of the inspection of semifinished product, product inspection warehousing after passing.
Embodiment 2
Production weight 100kg.composition of raw materials: water 73.90kg(73.9%), the mixture 3.00kg(3.00% that the pure and mild C12-20 alkyl androstanediol of cetearyl alcohol is mixed with for 3:7 in mass ratio), PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 1.20kg(1.20%), caprylic/capric triglyceride 4.00kg(4.00%), squalane 3.00kg(3.00%), polydimethylsiloxane 2.50kg(2.50%), Cyclomethicone 2.50kg(2.50%), mass percentage concentration is 1% carboxymethyl yeast dextran pure water solution 3.50kg(3.50%), propylene glycol 4.00kg(4.00%), xanthan gum 0.20kg(0.20%), carbomer 0.30kg(0.30%), hydroxyethyl-cellulose 0.20kg(0.20%), pantothenylol 0.60kg(0.60%), methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.10kg(0.10%), EDETATE SODIUM 0.12kg(0.12%), triethanolamine 0.30kg(0.30%), essence 0.08kg(0.08%), phenoxyethanol 0.50kg(0.50%).
To produce the cleaning and sterilizings such as required utensil, equipment standby.First the mixture of the pure and mild C12 of cetearyl alcohol ~ 20 alkyl androstanediol, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane and Cyclomethicone are stirred and are warmed up to 80 ℃ in oil cauldron, the stirring predissolve is fully standby.Add water in main cooker, be warming up to 85 ℃, then propylene glycol, xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, pantothenylol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and EDETATE SODIUM are joined respectively in main cooker, stirring and dissolving is complete, be aided with high speed (3500 rev/mins) homogenizing 5 minutes, insulated and stirred 20 minutes.The mixture of several materials in the oil cauldron of handling well is slowly joined in main cooker, stir after 3 minutes, opened high speed (3500 rev/mins) homogenizing 5 minutes, be incubated 20 minutes emulsifying froth breakings.Start cooling after insulation finishes, in the time of 70 ℃, triethanolamine is joined, rear continuation cooling stirs.With mass percentage concentration, be during 1% carboxymethyl yeast dextran pure water solution, daily essence and phenoxyethanol join main cooker respectively 45 ℃ of left and right, stirring and dissolving continues to be cooled to 39 ℃ after fully.
Qualified rear standing 12 hours of the said goods self check, then cross 100 orders filtration dischargings and obtain semi-finished product, the qualified rear fill of the inspection of semifinished product, product inspection warehousing after passing.
Embodiment 3
Production weight 200kg.composition of raw materials: water 141.50kg(70.75%), the mixture 5.00kg(2.50% that the pure and mild C12-20 alkyl androstanediol of cetearyl alcohol is mixed with for 5:5 in mass ratio), PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 4.00kg(2.00%), caprylic/capric triglyceride 12.00kg(6.00%), squalane 4.00kg(2.00%), polydimethylsiloxane 6.00kg(3.00%), Cyclomethicone 4.00kg(2.00%), mass percentage concentration is 1% carboxymethyl yeast dextran pure water solution 8.00kg(4.00%), propylene glycol 10.00kg(5.00%), xanthan gum 0.60kg(0.30%), carbomer 0.80kg(0.40%), hydroxyethyl-cellulose 0.50kg(0.25%), pantothenylol 1.10kg(0.55%), methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.30kg(0.15%), EDETATE SODIUM 0.20kg(0.10%), triethanolamine 0.80kg(0.40%), essence 0.10kg(0.05%), phenoxyethanol 1.10kg(0.55%).
To produce the cleaning and sterilizings such as required utensil, equipment standby.First the mixture of the pure and mild C12-20 alkyl androstanediol of cetearyl alcohol, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane and Cyclomethicone are stirred and are warmed up to 80 ℃ in oil cauldron, the stirring predissolve is fully standby.Add water in main cooker, be warming up to 85 ℃, then propylene glycol, xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, pantothenylol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and EDETATE SODIUM are joined respectively in main cooker, stirring and dissolving is complete, be aided with high speed (4500 rev/mins) homogenizing 5 minutes, insulated and stirred 20 minutes.The mixture of several materials in the oil cauldron of handling well is slowly joined in main cooker, stir after 3 minutes, opened high speed (4500 rev/mins) homogenizing 5 minutes, be incubated 20 minutes emulsifying froth breakings.Start cooling after insulation finishes, in the time of 70 ℃, triethanolamine is joined, rear continuation cooling stirs.With mass percentage concentration, be during 1% carboxymethyl yeast dextran pure water solution, daily essence and phenoxyethanol join main cooker respectively 45 ℃ of left and right, stirring and dissolving continues to be cooled to 39 ℃ after fully.
Qualified rear standing 12 hours of the said goods self check, then cross 100 orders filtration dischargings and obtain semi-finished product, the qualified rear fill of the inspection of semifinished product, product inspection warehousing after passing.
Embodiment 4
Select the crowd in three groups of all ages and classes stages to try out the carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream that embodiment 1 prepares.
First group of number 20 people on probation, age level, at 50 ~ 55 years old, is observed result on trial after different time on probation under the same conditions, in Table 1:
Table 1
| One week | Two weeks | One month | Two months | |
| Test result | The skin moisture-keeping performance obviously increases, and wrinkle is without obviously improving (18 people produce effect) | The skin moisture-keeping performance increases obviously, and the eye wrinkle-removing degree of depth can be seen has a little to improve (16 people have a little effect) | The skin moisture-keeping degree is high, microgroove is obviously desalinated in eye wrinkle-removing, (18 people have obvious desalination effect) | The skin moisture-keeping degree is high, microgroove is obviously desalinated in eye wrinkle-removing, and crows-feet is improved phenomenon, and skin elasticity increases.(18 people have obvious desalination effect) |
Second group of number 20 people on probation, age level, at 40 ~ 45 years old, is observed result on trial after different time on probation under the same conditions, in Table 2:
Table 2
| One week | Two weeks | One month | Two months | |
| Test result | The skin moisture-keeping performance obviously increases, and wrinkle is without obviously improving (18 people produce effect) | The skin moisture-keeping performance increases obviously, and the eye wrinkle-removing degree of depth can be seen has a little to improve (16 people have a little effect) | The skin moisture-keeping degree is high, microgroove is obviously desalinated in eye wrinkle-removing, (18 people have obvious desalination effect) | The skin moisture-keeping degree is high, microgroove is obviously desalinated in eye wrinkle-removing, and crows-feet is improved phenomenon, and skin elasticity increases.(18 people have obvious desalination effect) |
The 3rd group of number 20 people on probation, age level, at 30 ~ 35 years old, is observed result on trial after different time on probation under the same conditions, in Table 3:
Table 3
| One week | Two weeks | One month | Two months | |
| Test result | The skin moisture-keeping performance obviously increases, and observes the microgroove of regeneration without obviously increasing (18 people produce effect) | The skin moisture-keeping performance increases obviously, and the eye microgroove degree of depth can be seen has a little to improve (16 people have a little effect) | The skin moisture-keeping degree is high, microgroove is obviously desalinated in eye wrinkle-removing, (18 people have obvious desalination effect) | The skin moisture-keeping degree is high, microgroove is obviously desalinated in eye wrinkle-removing, and skin elasticity increases obviously.(18 people have obvious desalination effect) |
Claims (2)
1. carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream, it is characterized in that being formed by following raw material, by the quality percentage composition, be respectively: water 70.00 ~ 85.00%, the mixture 0.50 ~ 4.00% of the pure and mild C12 of cetearyl alcohol ~ 20 alkyl androstanediol, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 1.00 ~ 3.00%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 3.00 ~ 8.00%, squalane 1.00 ~ 5.00%, polydimethylsiloxane 0.50 ~ 3.00%, Cyclomethicone 1.00 ~ 4.00%, mass percentage concentration is 1% carboxymethyl yeast dextran pure water solution 0.10 ~ 10.00%, propylene glycol 2.00 ~ 5.00%, xanthan gum 0.10 ~ 2.00%, carbomer 0.01 ~ 5.00%, hydroxyethyl-cellulose 0.01 ~ 1.00%, pantothenylol 0.10 ~ 1.00%, methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.05 ~ 0.30%, EDETATE SODIUM 0.01 ~ 0.50%, triethanolamine 0.10 ~ 2.00%, essence 0.01 ~ 0.50%, phenoxyethanol 0.01 ~ 1.00%,
Described carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream prepares by the following method and obtains:
(1) all production equipments and apparatus are cleaned, disinfect;
(2) with the mixture of the pure and mild C12 of cetearyl alcohol ~ 20 alkyl androstanediol, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane and Cyclomethicone mix and blend, heat to 80 ℃, obtain mixture after stirring predissolve fully standby;
(3) add respectively propylene glycol, xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, pantothenylol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and EDETATE SODIUM in 85 ℃ of pure water, stirring and dissolving is complete, be aided with the speed homogenizing 5 minutes of 2000 ~ 5000 rev/mins, insulation 20min stirs and obtains mixed liquor;
(4) mixture of step (2) is joined in the mixed liquor of step (3), stir after 3 minutes with the speed homogenizing of 2000 ~ 5000 rev/mins 5 minutes insulation 20min, emulsifying froth breaking;
(5) lower the temperature after froth breaking, add triethanolamine in the time of 70 ℃, rear continuation cooling stirs;
While (6) cooling to 45 ℃, then to add respectively mass percentage concentration be 1% carboxymethyl yeast dextran pure water solution, essence and phenoxyethanol, and stirring and dissolving continues to be cooled to 39 ℃ after fully;
(7) standing 12 hours, 100 orders filtered discharging and obtain semi-finished product;
(8) semi-finished product are through after the assay was approved, get the packaging material that cleaning and sterilizing crosses and carry out fill under clean environment, and assemble each accessory by product requirement and form product;
(9) product is tested, warehousing after passing.
2. the application of the described carboxymethyl yeast dextran of claim 1 eye cream, is characterized in that carboxymethyl yeast dextran eye cream is for the preparation of the eye skin care item that prevent skin aging, increase skin elasticity or increase skin moisture-keeping degree.
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| CN105147590B (en) * | 2015-10-19 | 2018-05-22 | 广州科玛生物科技股份有限公司 | A kind of anti-wrinkle eye cream and preparation method thereof |
| CN106811502A (en) * | 2015-12-01 | 2017-06-09 | 江南大学 | The preparation method of the skincare product containing almond polypeptide |
| CN107095812A (en) * | 2017-04-24 | 2017-08-29 | 诺斯贝尔化妆品股份有限公司 | A kind of bar-shaped eye cream of solid-state |
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| CN1251985A (en) * | 1997-04-10 | 2000-05-03 | 朗开斯特集团有限公司 | Cosmetic and dermatological agent with hard-magnetic particle base |
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| CN1251985A (en) * | 1997-04-10 | 2000-05-03 | 朗开斯特集团有限公司 | Cosmetic and dermatological agent with hard-magnetic particle base |
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| 刘德军主编.眼霜.《现代中药化妆品制作工艺及配方》.化学工业出版社,2009,(第1版),第234-235页. * |
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