CN102187026A - 包含聚氨酯弹性纱线的织物 - Google Patents

包含聚氨酯弹性纱线的织物 Download PDF

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CN102187026A
CN102187026A CN2009801407794A CN200980140779A CN102187026A CN 102187026 A CN102187026 A CN 102187026A CN 2009801407794 A CN2009801407794 A CN 2009801407794A CN 200980140779 A CN200980140779 A CN 200980140779A CN 102187026 A CN102187026 A CN 102187026A
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fabric
yarn
dyeable
acid
dyes
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G·D·希特帕斯
R·杜赫斯特
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Invista Technologies SARL Switzerland
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Abstract

包括织物的制品，其中所述的织物包括阳离子可染聚氨酯弹性纱线和酸性可染纱线。

Description

包含聚氨酯弹性纱线的织物
背景技术
技术领域
本发明涉及织物，该织物由具有阳离子可染功能(functionality)的聚氨酯弹性纱线和酸性可染纱线制得。当该织物采用单独的染色体系(separate dye systems)制备时，能够具有均匀的颜色。
相关技术描述
这种包含弹性纤维(嵌段聚氨酯，也称为氨纶(spandex))的织物拥有公认的舒适性、合身性以及定形性的优点。另外，明显的是，消费者依据专业的外观来评价织物，该外观包括具有均匀的颜色。织物工业无法解决的一个问题在于，将弹性纤维的益处与均匀的颜色相结合，具体来说，就是染色弹性纱线达到组合纱线(例如聚酰胺纤维(尼龙))的相似深度的色调的能力。这个问题随着弹性纤维在织物中含量的增加而随之增加，并且在针织织物中，包括那些在伸长状态(extended state)成型的(molded)，表现更为突出。对于针织织物来说，在两种情形下，在针织结构中固有的拉伸允许更高的织物伸张以及更多的暴露氨纶的纱线的移动。在商业中，弹性纤维在不期望的方式下，在被拉伸的织物区域变得可见的问题，通常称为“露底(grin through)”。
无法将弹性纤维染色成与该组合纤维(尤其是尼龙)共同的色调，与几个因素有关，这几个因素对于色调匹配用同类的染料染色的任何两种化学上不同的纤维是共同的。例如，酸性染料用于染色聚酰胺，丝，以及毛，并且它们也能够沾染(stain)弹性纤维，因此，两种纤维“一起”染色。除了在染料分子和两种或更多种不同纤维类型之间的亲和力和化学反应速率的差异之外，色调的深度也公认地的受纱线的性能影响，这些性能例如分特，纱线束中的单丝分特，以及在染色加工条件下的纤维的热性能。
先前将弹性纤维功能的益处与均匀着色相结合的尝试，是试图提高弹性纤维对于常用于聚酰胺的酸性染料类型的亲和力以及色调的深度，例如由Selle等人做出的美国专利申请公开号为2005/0165200A1中那样。这些努力受到与色调匹配的困难相同困难的影响，这些困难来自于在弹性纤维和组合纱线之间的物理性能以及染料摄取量的差异(参见例子“Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers”5th ed.By E.R.Trotman(“纺织纤维中的染色和化学技术”第五版，E.R.Trotman编著))。
因此，需要具有更均匀的颜色的包括弹性纱线和聚酰胺纱线和/或蛋白质纱线的改善弹力织物。
发明内容
在一些实施方案中，是包括织物的制品，其中该织物包括阳离子可染聚氨酯弹性纱线和酸性可染纱线。阳离子可染纱线选择那些公开在日本OPELONTEXCO.，Ltd的公开号为WO2008/075605的文献中，其全文在此纳入作为参考。
在一些实施方案中，是包括织物的制品，其中该织物具有均匀的颜色。织物包括阳离子可染聚氨酯弹性纱线，酸性可染纱线，阳离子染料，以及酸性染料，其中该酸性可染纱线选自聚酰胺，蛋白质以及其组合。
在另一实施方案中，提供了制备织物的方法，包括：
(a)提供包括阳离子可染聚氨酯纱线和酸性可染纱线的织物，
(b)使所述的织物与阳离子染料接触，以及
(c)使所述的织物与酸性染料接触，
其中所述的织物具有均匀的颜色。
发明的具体描述
出人意料地是，已经发现，通过制备如公开号为WO2008/075605公开的包括具有阳离子染料可染功能的聚氨酯弹性纱线和具有酸性染料可染功能的组合纱线的独特组合的织物，可以克服具有弹性纱线和酸性可染纱线的弹力织物的缺点。
本文所用的术语，氨纶，弹性纤维，以及聚氨酯弹性纱线可以互换使用，并且是指嵌段聚氨酯弹性纱线。
阳离子可染聚氨酯弹性纱线和酸性可染纱线可以结合在同一根纱线内或者分别的结合在织物内。该织物能够制备成任何合适的组织结构，包括圆筒形针织、经编以及机织结构。在织物制得之后，该织物分别用阳离子染料和酸性染料处理。阳离子染料或酸性染料可以根据所需织物的特性首先应用。阳离子可染弹性纤维可以以任何合适的量用于织物中，来提供给织物所需的拉伸-回复性能。例如，该织物可以包括大于零到至多约60％重量的阳离子可染弹性纤维。
另一种获得具有均匀地着色的织物的合适的方法，是制备具有阳离子可染弹性纤维和酸性可染组合纱线的针织或者机织织物。该织物首先与酸性染料接触，以使用完全不染色或者仅轻微染色或者沾染该阳离子可染弹性纤维的染料获得对于组合纱线的所需色调。然后，该织物与阳离子染料接触以染色该弹性纤维。织物的弹性纱线的染色可以以单独的步骤发生或者在其中该染色该酸性可染纱线的相同染浴中发生。当使用一个染浴时，酸性染浴与可选择的染料配方(该阳离子染料)相结合以匹配该组合纱线的色调，所述染料配方已经针对该弹性纤维的独特化学性质和纤维直径进行特别地调整。
另外，假定该弹性纱线拉伸达到500％，并且色调外观取决于纤维直径，则该弹性纤维颜色深度可以优化以匹配在织物中处于松弛状态下的或者在特别的目标水平的伸长下的组合纱线。
该组合纱线可以包括任何的酸性可染纱线。可以用酸性染料染色的纤维的例子包括聚酰胺和蛋白质纤维。在现有技术中，聚酰胺聚合物是公知的。它们通常是由二羧酸与二胺的缩聚反应，或者是由通常来自内部的内酰胺(internal lactam)的单氨基单羧酸的缩合制得。该聚酰胺的例子是尼龙6，6或者尼龙-6，它们分别由六亚甲基二胺-己二酸的混合物和ε-己内酰胺制得。其他的成纤聚酰胺的例子是尼龙-6/6，6共聚物，尼龙-11，尼龙-12。蛋白质纤维的例子包括丝，毛，马海毛，安哥拉毛和阿尔帕卡(alpaca)。这些纤维的组合可以应用于同一根纱线中或者用于可以被结合到织物中的单成分纱线中。
有用的酸性染料的例子包括颜色指数(CI)染料：酸性黄24，40，59，159，184，204和246，酸性橙142和156，酸性红50，51，52，138，151，299，361，362，酸性绿104和108，酸性蓝113，171，185，193，277和324，酸性紫90，酸性棕298，酸性黑52，131:1，132:1，172，187和194。实例中有用的非颜色指数染料包括：Lanaset蓝2R，Lanaset深蓝R，Lanaset红G，Lanaset红2GA，Lanaset紫B，Lanaset棕B，Burconyl砖红AF-3b，Burconyl宝石红AF-GR，Burconyl橙AF-3R，Burconyl绿AF-B，Burconyl亮蓝AF-R，Burconyl品蓝AF-R，Burconyl亮黄AF-4G，、Erionyl红A-3G，Erionyl蓝RL200，以及Nylanthrene亮蓝2RFF。
其它有用的染料，包括现有技术中已知的以及WO2008/075605所公开的阳离子染料。
利用使用D65/10度光源的Datacolor Spectraflash Model SF-300比色计(Datacolor International，Lawrenceville，NJ)在织物上进行颜色测量。测量结果是使用由“Commission Internationale de L′Eclairage”(Paris，France)，(International Society for Illumination/Lighting)，(“CIE”)发布的国际标准颜色测量方法报告的，该方法使用CIELABL*a*b*色空间的标准颜色坐标：其中“L”表示亮度的坐标；“a”表示红/绿坐标(+a表示红以及-a表示绿)；以及“b”表示黄/蓝坐标(+b表示黄以及-b表示蓝)。在两个样品之间的总的颜色差异，ΔE，是通过在L*，a*，和b*坐标之间的差异获得的。织物的均匀颜色包括，如通过a-颜色，b-颜色，和L-值测得的织物的颜色是在通过从织物中去除阳离子可染聚氨酯弹性纱线获得的值的10％以内。
一般加工条件
·制备
·在85-115℃范围的高压釜温度下预蒸的袜子或服装，能够用来稳定(stabilise)服装的上浆(sizing)以及在后续湿处理中最大程度地减少折皱。
·平幅织物定形，特别用于LYCRA纤维混合物(blends)能够在设置在160-200℃的干燥加热展幅机上进行60-45秒来实现。取决于织物质量，在预设置过程中，可以在衬垫中使用抗氧化保护以保护胺端基/聚酰胺的染色位点(dye sites)(工业实例2-3％owf的Spanscour Spark Tanatex)。
·精练
·1-2g/l的非离子洗涤剂
·1-2G/l的纯碱在70-80℃下进行20分钟
·单浴二步法
·由于色泽一致的色调颜色效果(solid shade colour effects)是基于阴离子和阳离子染料的组合，所以改进单浴的染色以促进两种染料类型的分别尽染是重要的。
·阳离子染料比阴离子染料的瞬染(strike)速度快，和应当首先在尽可能低的温度下与阳离子匀染剂施用在染浴中。在40-70℃下进行10-30分钟的后续处理会实现显著的尽染。在冷却回到40℃之后，酸性染料的施用则能够更安全控制，以1℃/分钟的速度升温到98℃，染色30-60分钟。
·两浴法
如在单浴法中所述将阳离子染料施加到氨纶，冷却并且漂洗，然后在第二浴中将酸性染料施加到聚酰胺上，这对于非常深的色调是优选的，在这种情况下可能存在染料沉淀的风险，即，没有在纤维上尽染的阳离子染料残留在染浴中，导致在该阳离子染料在加入酸性染料时沉淀。
染色过程控制
·尽管能够使用释酸剂(acid donors)，但是以恒定的pH染色将确保色调和颜色再现性的最佳平衡。
·恒定的pH6.5-7将是最优的，但是有时需要向下调整到pH4.5-5.5以实现染料尽染。重要的是，在添加阳离子染料之前设定pH以避免来自残余精练碱(scour alkali)的在氨纶上的快速瞬染。
·阳离子染料在氨纶上的改进的匀染和泳移，能够通过向染色浴同时增加0.1％Tinegal MR(Huntsman)而实现。此产品能够更容易地起泡和因此每升另外施用0.5ml的Aphrogene NS(得自Uniqema的非硅氧烷防沫剂)会有帮助。
·结晶硫酸钠(Glaubers salt)缓染了在氨纶上的阳离子染料，且也改善了匀染。
·0.25％含量的非离子抗沉淀剂Uniperol KA(BASF)能够减少在单浴染色应用中的沉淀风险。当存在发泡的问题时，可以使用两性的-Albegal A(Huntsman)。

Claims (7)

1.包括织物的制品，其中所述的织物包括阳离子可染聚氨酯弹性纱线和酸性可染纱线。
2.如权利要求1所述的制品，其中所述的织物包括选自圆筒形针织、经编和机织结构的结构。
3.如权利要求1所述的制品，其中所述的酸性可染纱线选自聚酰胺，丝，毛，马海毛，安哥拉毛，阿尔帕卡以及其组合。
4.如权利要求1所述的制品，其中由a-颜色，b-颜色，L-值测量的织物的颜色，是在通过从织物中去除阳离子可染弹性纱线得到的值的10％以内。
5.如权利要求4所述的制品，其中该织物包括具有低于该织物的60％重量的量的具有阳离子可染功能的聚氨酯弹性纱线。
6.包括织物的制品，其中该织物具有均匀的颜色，并且包括阳离子可染聚氨酯弹性纱线，酸性可染纱线，阳离子染料，以及酸性染料，其中所述的酸性可染纱线选自聚酰胺，蛋白质及其组合。
7.处理织物的方法，该方法包括：
(a)提供包括阳离子可染聚氨酯弹性纱线和酸性可染纱线的织物，
(b)使所述的织物与阳离子染料接触，以及
(c)使所述的织物与酸性染料接触，
其中所述的织物具有均匀的颜色。
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