CN101568325B - 含包胶香料的乳液和个人护理组合物 - Google Patents
含包胶香料的乳液和个人护理组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN101568325B CN101568325B CN2007800476942A CN200780047694A CN101568325B CN 101568325 B CN101568325 B CN 101568325B CN 2007800476942 A CN2007800476942 A CN 2007800476942A CN 200780047694 A CN200780047694 A CN 200780047694A CN 101568325 B CN101568325 B CN 101568325B
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- 229920001195 polyisoprene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012985 polymerization agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000256 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Substances 0.000 description 1
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- RMGVATURDVPNOZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M potassium;hexadecyl hydrogen phosphate Chemical compound [K+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOP(O)([O-])=O RMGVATURDVPNOZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 150000003141 primary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 description 1
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- CAVXVRQDZKMZDB-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[dodecanoyl(methyl)amino]ethanesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CCS([O-])(=O)=O CAVXVRQDZKMZDB-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- BRMSVEGRHOZCAM-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-dodecanoyloxyethanesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCS([O-])(=O)=O BRMSVEGRHOZCAM-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 230000007928 solubilization Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 229940100459 steareth-20 Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N taurine Chemical compound NCCS(O)(=O)=O XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001988 toxicity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 231100000419 toxicity Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- NPFVOOAXDOBMCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-3-hexenyl acetate Natural products CCC=CCCOC(C)=O NPFVOOAXDOBMCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000007704 transition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001069 triethyl citrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- VMYFZRTXGLUXMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethyl citrate Natural products CCOC(=O)C(O)(C(=O)OCC)C(=O)OCC VMYFZRTXGLUXMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- GETQZCLCWQTVFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethylamine Chemical compound CN(C)C GETQZCLCWQTVFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UWSCPROMPSAQOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethylazanium;sulfate Chemical compound CN(C)C.CN(C)C.OS(O)(=O)=O UWSCPROMPSAQOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000008371 vanilla flavor Substances 0.000 description 1
- MWOOGOJBHIARFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N vanillin Chemical compound COC1=CC(C=O)=CC=C1O MWOOGOJBHIARFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FGQOOHJZONJGDT-UHFFFAOYSA-N vanillin Natural products COC1=CC(O)=CC(C=O)=C1 FGQOOHJZONJGDT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000012141 vanillin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003981 vehicle Substances 0.000 description 1
- WJUFSDZVCOTFON-UHFFFAOYSA-N veratraldehyde Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C=O)C=C1OC WJUFSDZVCOTFON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WXETUDXXEZHSCS-MAVITOTKSA-N vertofix coeur Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(C(/CC3)=C\C(C)=O)[C@@H]3C(C)(C)[C@@H]1C2 WXETUDXXEZHSCS-MAVITOTKSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
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- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
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- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8164—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a carboxyl radical, and containing at least one other carboxyl radical in the molecule, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. poly (methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride)
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Abstract
本发明提供一种乳液,其包含连续水相以及遍及连续水相分布的不连续有机相,其中所述有机相包括:a)有机溶剂和/或b)稳定有机相的物质,所述稳定有机相的物质包含疏水性部分并且所述稳定有机相的物质是在有机相中比在水相中更易溶的物质,以及所述乳液还包括包胶在微粒中的包胶香料。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及用于改善个人护理组合物中香料递送的、包含包胶香料(encapsulated fragrances)的乳液以及包含所述乳液的个人护理组合物。
背景技术
目前所使用的对消费品赋予香味的方法是将香料直接掺和至产品中。这种方法的缺点是:大部分香料在制造、存储和使用期间损失了,这是因为香料分子太易挥发和/或太不稳定。通常,香料还因为缺乏对带香味的支持体(例如皮肤、毛发、织物、瓷砖或任何其它表面)的粘合性而损失。
期望的是,使用有益剂(benefit agents)对各种基质(例如皮肤或毛发)的表面进行处理,所述有益剂例如香精(perfumes)、食用香料(flavours)、药物,和/或包括抗微生物剂、杀虫剂和防霉剂等的生物控制剂(biocontrol agents)。这种处理的目的是使足够的有益剂沉积残留在基质表面上,以将残余益处给予基质表面。
在许多消费品中,期望香精(尤其是香精原料)随时间推移缓慢释放。由于更易挥发的香精原料是消费者所体验的“清新感觉”的原因,所以期望所述更易挥发的香精原料以缓慢的受控的方式释放。
在一些情况中,用环糊精处理香料以形成包合复合物(inclusioncomplexes),从而降低了挥发性以及改善了稳定性。这些方法经常得到不令人满意的结果或成本太高。例如,如美国专利说明书5,382,567中所述,迄今为止使用环糊精的缺点是,它们用于含水应用中时的高水溶性。
WO 2000/41528披露了包含吸收性聚合物、活化剂和释放延迟剂(releaseretardant)的受控释放组合物。
美国专利说明书6,024,952披露了包含阳离子聚合物和阴离子润肤剂(emollient)的个人洗涤制剂,并将所述公开文本在此引入作为参考。
EP-A-925,776披露了为至少一种感官物质(organoleptic substance)提供结合部位的聚合物。
美国专利申请公开文本2004/0092414披露了包含香精聚合物粒子香精原料递送体系的用后需冲洗干净的(rinse-off)个人护理组合物。
美国专利申请公开文本2004/0234558披露了包含有益剂预混或递送媒介物的个人产品组合物。
EP-A-1,407,753披露了聚合包胶香料,其中所述聚合包胶外壳包覆有聚胺聚合物。
因此,需要一种包含包胶香料的乳液,所述包胶香料增强/提高香精原料沉积至基质上和/或从基质释放的水平,以及将香精原料(perfume rawmaterial)递送至基质(特别是皮肤和/或毛发)的方法。
发明内容
本发明提供一种乳液,其包含连续水相(continuous aqueous phase)以及遍及所述连续水相分布的不连续有机相(organic discontinuous phase),其中所述有机相包括:
a)在25℃呈液体的有机溶剂,和/或
b)稳定有机相的物质(organic phase stabilising material),其包含疏水性部分,以及稳定有机相的物质由在有机相中比在水相中更易溶的物质组成,
以及所述乳液还包括包胶香料,所述香料包胶在微粒中。
本发明还涉及个人护理组合物,所述个人护理组合物包括用于改善香料递送的包含包胶香料的乳液。
本发明还涉及使用方法,所述使用方法包括将有效量的液体或固体个人护理组合物施用至身体的至少一部分,所述个人护理组合物包括含包胶在微粒中的香料的乳液。
所述有机相可以包括任何有机溶剂,所述有机溶剂在25℃呈液体并且是所述香料或香精原料活性物在其中可溶、可混溶或可分散的物质。例如,将香料活性物溶解在有机溶剂中。有机溶剂可以是芳族或脂族有机液体,例如C3烷基或更高级烷基取代的芳族化合物或烷基苯/溶剂石脑油。例如,有机溶剂是羧酸烷基酯。例如,溶剂是醇部分含至少4个碳原子的羧酸酯,例如羧酸的C4-C30烷基酯。适合的是单体但饱和的酯,例如乙酸异丁酯、乙酸月桂酯、异丁酸异丁酯和异丁酸月桂酯。单体烯键式不饱和的酯(ethylenically unsaturated ester)如甲基丙烯酸异丁酯或甲基丙烯酸月桂酯是适合的。
当有机相包括有机溶剂时,有机溶剂优选以同时促进乳液稳定性和香料活性物耐久性(longevity)的量存在。有机溶剂以基于乳液总重量约0.01重量%至约50.0重量%的量使用。例如,所述乳液包含的有机溶剂的量为约0.1重量%至约40.0重量%,例如为约1.0重量%至约30.0重量%。例如,当所述乳液包含约1.0重量%至约10.0重量%的有机溶剂时,得到了高效的结果。
可选择地,所述有机相包括稳定有机相的物质,所述稳定有机相的物质是在有机相中比在连续水相中更易溶的物质。所述有机相稳定剂可以选自由a)、b)和c)形成的加成聚合物,其中a)为至少一种含C8-30烷基部分的烯键式不饱和单体,b)为至少一种烯键式不饱和羧酸或烯键式不饱和酸酐,以及c)为任选的其它水不溶性烯键式不饱和单体。
含C8-30烷基部分的烯键式不饱和单体可以是例如(甲基)丙烯酸酯、N-取代的(甲基)丙烯酰胺和(甲基)烯丙基醚。例如,稳定有机相的物质选自由含a)、b)和c)的单体混合物形成的加成聚合物,其中a)为约40.0重量%至约90.0重量%的(甲基)丙烯酸C8-30烷基酯,b)为约10.0重量%至约40.0重量%的至少一种选自马来酸、马来酸酐、丙烯酸和甲基丙烯酸的单体,以及c)为0.0重量%至约50.0重量%的至少一种选自(甲基)丙烯酸C1-7烷基酯、苯乙烯、乙酸乙烯酯和丙烯腈的单体。
在本发明另一种实施方式中,所述稳定有机相的物质是甲基丙烯酸硬脂醇酯/马来酸酐/苯乙烯的共聚物。
在本发明另一种实施方式中,所述稳定有机相的物质是甲基丙烯酸硬脂醇酯/马来酸酐/苯乙烯的共聚物,其中基于单体重量,所述单体重量比率为60/10/30。
所述聚合有机相稳定剂可以通过使用标准聚合技术在有机溶剂中聚合单体混合物而制备。这种聚合物可以适合地通过对单体共混物在适合有机溶剂中的溶液进行聚合并且例如使用适合的生成自由基的引发剂如热引发剂(例如偶氮二异丁腈(AZDN))而形成。
例如,可选择的有机相稳定剂是低亲水亲油平衡值(HLB)表面活性剂。通常所述表面活性剂具有低于7,优选为2至6的亲水亲油平衡值。
低HLB表面活性剂可能不一定是聚合物,只要此化合物包含的亲水和亲油部分的比例使它在有机相中比在水相中更易溶即可。例如,根据本发明的低HLB表面活性剂包括失水山梨醇单油酸酯。
所需要的稳定有机相的物质的量将取决于乳液中所含的特定的稳定剂和分散相对水相的比例而不同。为实现最大稳定性和对所述香料的保护,期望的是,所述稳定有机相的物质在乳液中的存在量为乳液的约0.01重量%至约15.0重量%。当稳定剂的存在量为基于乳液总重量约1.5%至约8%时也得到了良好的结果。
例如,所述乳液在有机相中包含存在量为约5重量%至约50.0重量%的有机溶剂和存在量为约0.1重量%至约15.0重量%的有机相聚合稳定剂,二者均基于乳液总重量。
可期望的是,在本发明第一方面的包胶香料乳液中包括其它成分。例如为防止暴露于低温时不稳定性所导致的问题,包含防冻添加剂(例如丙二醇和乙二醇)可能是理想的。
例如,在本发明另一种实施方式中,包胶香料制剂包括含有机相的稳定乳液,所述有机相包含i)包胶香料和ii)在25℃呈液体的有机溶剂和/或稳定有机相的物质(所述稳定有机相的物质包含疏水性部分并且所述稳定有机相的物质是在有机相中比在水相中更易溶的物质),所述有机相遍及连续水相分布,所述连续水相含有水和水溶性稳定化物质(所述水溶性的稳定化物质是具有多个亲水性和疏水性基团的水溶性的稳定化聚合物)和任选的防冻化合物。
在本发明另一种实施方式中,将所述包胶香料包胶在微粒中。这些微粒由芯-壳构造(core-shell configuration)组成。
优选的是,所述粒子具有芯-壳构造,其中所述芯包括由聚合物壳围绕的聚合物粒子。
更优选地,所述粒子包括含聚合物粒子的芯和含水溶性或部分水溶性聚合物的壳。特别优选的是,水溶性或部分水溶性聚合物的壳在聚合期间围绕聚合物粒子的芯而形成。
芯聚合物或共聚物由甲基丙烯酸酯或丙烯酸酯单体和乙烯基单体的组合所形成,所述甲基丙烯酸酯或丙烯酸酯单体和乙烯基单体的组合能够形成玻璃化转变温度(Tg)低于50℃(优选为低于40℃)的共聚物。
在Kirk Othmer,Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology[第19卷,第四版,第891页]中将聚合物的玻璃化转变温度(Tg)定义为这样的温度,即低于该温度时(1)整个分子的跃迁运动和(2)链的40至50个碳原子链段的卷绕和解绕均冻结。因此,聚合物在低于其Tg时不会呈现出流动性或橡胶弹性。聚合物的Tg可以使用差示扫描量热法(DSC)测定。
对于本发明,可以将所有Tg低于50℃(优选为低于40℃)的苯乙烯与(甲基)丙烯酸烷基酯的共聚物用作苯乙烯-丙烯酸酯芯聚合物或共聚物。
用于形成芯聚合物或共聚物的(甲基)丙烯酸酯单体选自例如(甲基)丙烯酸正丁酯、(甲基)丙烯酸2-乙基己酯、(甲基)丙烯酸己酯、(甲基)丙烯酸异丙酯、(甲基)丙烯酸癸酯或(甲基)丙烯酸月桂酯、(甲基)丙烯酸叔丁酯、(甲基)丙烯酸异丁酯、(甲基)丙烯酸乙酯、(甲基)丙烯酸缩水甘油酯、(甲基)丙烯酸羟烷基酯和二羧酸酯单体如马来酸酯,以及(甲基)丙烯酸丙酯。优选的(甲基)丙烯酸酯单体是(甲基)丙烯酸正丁酯、(甲基)丙烯酸2-乙基己酯和(甲基)丙烯酸叔丁酯,或它们的混合物。
芯聚合物或共聚物的一种或多种乙烯基可聚合单体(vinyl polymerizalemonomer)选自(甲基)丙烯酸甲酯、(甲基)丙烯酸异丁酯、苯乙烯和苯乙烯衍生物,例如α-甲基苯乙烯、烷基化苯乙烯和它们的混合物。优选的一种或多种乙烯基可聚合单体是甲基丙烯酸甲酯、苯乙烯或烷基化苯乙烯。
用于芯聚合物或共聚物的乙烯基可聚合单体是不含酸官能团如(甲基)丙烯酸或丙烯酸的单体,例如上述单体。特别地,苯乙烯、α-甲基苯乙烯和烷基化苯乙烯是优选的。
在芯聚合物或共聚物中(甲基)丙烯酸酯单体对乙烯基可聚合单体的重量比率为约30/70至约70/30,优选地,(甲基)丙烯酸酯单体对乙烯基可聚合单体的重量比率为约35/65至约65/35。更优选地,基于芯聚合物或共聚物的总重量,重量比率为约40/60至约60/40。
例如,本发明的芯聚合物或共聚物包括:
50.0重量%的丙烯酸正丁酯和50.0重量%的苯乙烯,
45.0重量%的丙烯酸正丁酯和55重量%的苯乙烯,
40.0重量%的丙烯酸2-乙基己酯和60.0重量%的苯乙烯,
40.0重量%的丙烯酸2-乙基己酯和30.0重量%的甲基丙烯酸甲酯和30.0重量%的苯乙烯,和
45%重量%的丙烯酸2-乙基己酯和55%重量%的苯乙烯。
这些例子中的每个均得到低Tg(低于50℃)。例如,55/45的苯乙烯/丙烯酸2-乙基己酯芯共聚物得到约22℃的Tg。
所述芯聚合物或共聚物的平均分子量为约150,000至约350,000g/mol(通过GPC使用标准工业参数测定)。优选地,所述聚合物具有约200,000至约300,000g/mol的分子量。更优选地,基质聚合物(matrix polymer)的最佳分子量为约200,000至约275,000g/mol。
芯聚合物或共聚物的平均粒子尺寸直径为小于约300纳米。例如,平均粒子尺寸直径为约60至约200纳米,例如为约60至约150纳米。平均粒子尺寸通过Coulter粒子尺寸分析仪根据文献中详细记载的标准操作进行测定。
为了从这些乙烯基单体得到水分散体,它应足以通过制备稳定分散体的公知方法使用亲水性催化剂(例如过硫酸铵、过硫酸钾或过氧化氢水溶液或氧化还原催化剂)进行单体的乳液聚合。
在芯聚合物或共聚物的聚合期间存在的壳聚合物或共聚物通过以下方法制备:将(甲基)丙烯酸或丙烯酸和不是酸单体的乙烯基可聚合单体共聚,以形成玻璃化转变温度(Tg)为约50℃至约120℃,优选为约70℃至约120℃的共聚物,并且最优选地,Tg为约80℃至约110℃。
壳聚合物或共聚物的一种或多种乙烯基可聚合单体含有(甲基)丙烯酸或丙烯酸和不是酸单体的乙烯基单体。优选地,至少一种乙烯基单体选自:苯乙烯、烷基化苯乙烯、α-甲基苯乙烯、(甲基)丙烯酸丁酯、(甲基)丙烯酸甲酯和它们的混合物。
壳聚合物或共聚物是含酸的聚合物,其是通过将(甲基)丙烯酸或丙烯酸和除(甲基)丙烯酸或丙烯酸以外的乙烯基可聚合单体共聚所制备的,并且由约10.0至约50.0重量%(优选为约10.0至约45.0重量%)的丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸或它们的混合物,和约90.0至约50.0重量%(优选为约90.0至约55.0重量%)的不是(甲基)丙烯酸或丙烯酸单体的乙烯基可聚合单体所形成。单体百分数是基于聚合物或共聚物的总重量。
适当的壳聚合物或共聚物的例子是:
65%的苯乙烯和35%的丙烯酸;
43%的甲基丙烯酸异丁酯、43%的甲基丙烯酸甲酯和14%的丙烯酸;
43%的丙烯酸丁酯、43%的甲基丙烯酸甲酯和14%的丙烯酸;和
80%的乙烯和20%的丙烯酸。
壳聚合物或共聚物的盐可以是任何盐,只要此聚合物维持乳化性质即可。优选地,所述聚合物或共聚物含有挥发性盐;例如铵盐。
壳聚合物或共聚物具有约6,000至约15,000g/mol的平均分子量。优选地,壳聚合物具有约6,000至约12,000g/mol的平均分子量。更优选地,壳聚合物具有约6,000至约10,000g/mol的平均分子量。
将芯-壳聚合物或共聚物提供在含水乳液中,并且可以包括其它添加剂,例如增稠剂、消泡剂或抑泡剂、颜料、爽滑剂(slip additives)、脱模剂(releaseagents)、含氟化学品、淀粉、蜡和防粘连剂。也可以添加诸如含氟化学品、淀粉和蜡的组分以改善油、脂和其它物质的防护性能(barrier properties),例如疏水性和水蒸汽传输防护性(water vapour transmission barrier)。
微粒的平均粒子尺寸直径为约100纳米至约100微米。例如,平均粒子尺寸直径为约500纳米至约50微米;例如为约1微米至约25微米。平均粒子尺寸通过Coulter粒子尺寸分析仪根据文献中记载的标准操作进行测定。
当乳液是例如含例如至少10%香精原料的香料浓缩物时,该乳液可以按原样直接使用或可选择地进行稀释。通常将浓度稀释至活性物浓度为约0.1至约0.5重量%香精原料。
本申请使用的术语“香料(fragrance)”可以包含香精或香精成分或原料、凉爽剂和其它触感剂(tactile agents)或它们的组合。
包含在本发明乳液中的包胶香料占乳液总重量的约0.001重量%至约90重量%;例如,占乳液总重量的约40重量%至约80重量%;例如,占乳液总重量的约50重量%至约70重量%。
包胶香料占乳液总重量的约0.001重量%至约20重量%;例如,占乳液总重量的约0.01重量%至约10重量%;例如,占乳液总重量的约0.1重量%至约1重量%。
本发明乳液中使用的香料或香精成分是本领域中已知的常规成分。甚至当以纯净形式使用时由于挥发性(如通过强度的改变所呈现出)或变色而不稳定的香精成分当浸在如下文所述的香料载体中时也变得稳定并适用于本发明乳液。当在本申请中使用时,如果香料在49℃10天之后不呈现出颜色或强度的可感知的变化和不呈现出挥发性所导致的可感知的损失,则将香料视为“稳定的”。
适合的香精化合物和组合物可以参见本领域文献,包括美国专利说明书4,145,184;4,209,417;4,515,705;4,152,272;5,378,468;5,081,000;4,994,266;4,524,018;3,849,326;3,779,932;1995年7月18日出版的JP07-179,328;1993年9月7日出版的JP 05-230496;WO 96/38528;WO96/14827;WO 95/04809;和WO 95/16660。此外,将P.M.Muller,D.LamparskyPerfumes Art,Science,& Technology Blackie Academic & Professional,(NewYork,1994)在此引入,作为参考。
可以将香精根据挥发性进行分类。高挥发性低沸点香精成分通常具有约250℃或较低的沸点。中度挥发性香精成分沸点为约250℃至约300℃的香精成分。较低挥发性高沸点香精成分是沸点为约300℃或较高的香精成分。
高挥发性低沸点香精成分的例子是:茴香脑(anethole)、苯甲醛(benzaldehyde)、乙酸苄酯(benzyl acetate)、苄醇(benzyl alcohol)、甲酸苄酯(benzyl formate)、乙酸异冰片酯(iso-bornyl acetate)、莰烯(camphene)、顺式柠檬醛(cis-citral)(橙花醛(neral))、香茅醛(citronellal)、香茅醇(citronellol)、乙酸香茅酯(citronellyl acetate)、对伞花烃(paracymene)、癸醛(decanal)、二氢芳樟醇(dihydrolinalool)、二氢月桂烯醇(dihydromyrcenol)、二甲基·苯基甲醇(dimethyl phenyl carbinol)、桉树脑(eucalyptol)、香叶醛(geranial)、香叶醇(geraniol)、乙酸香叶酯(geranyl acetate)、香叶腈(geranyl nitrile)、乙酸顺式-3-己烯基酯(cis-3-hexenyl acetate)、羟基香茅醛(hydroxycitronellal)、d-柠檬烯(d-limonene)、芳樟醇(linalool)、氧化芳樟醇(linalool oxide)、乙酸芳樟酯(li-nalyl acetate)、丙酸芳樟酯(linalyl propionate)、邻氨基苯甲酸甲酯(methylanthranilate)、α-甲基紫罗兰酮(α-methyl ionone)、甲基壬基乙醛(methyl nonylacetaldehyde)、乙酸甲基苯基原酯(methyl phenyl carbonyl acetate)、左旋-乙酸薄荷酯(laevo-menthyl acetate)、薄荷酮(menthone)、异-薄荷酮(iso-menthone)、月桂烯(myrcene)、乙酸月桂烯酯(lyrcenyl acetate)、月桂烯醇(myrcenol)、mero、meryl acetate、乙酸壬酯(nonyl acetate)、苯乙醇、α-、β-或γ-phenene、α-萜品醇(α-terpineol)、β-萜品醇、乙酸萜品酯(terpinyl acetate)和乙酸对叔丁基环己酯(vertenex)(乙酸对叔丁基环己酯(para-tertiary-butyl cyclohexyl acetate))。例如,lavadin包含芳樟醇;乙酸芳樟酯;香叶醇;和香茅醇作为主要组分。柠檬油和橙萜(orange terpenes)均含有约95%的d-柠檬烯。
中度挥发性香精成分的例子是:戊基肉桂醛、水杨酸异戊酯、β-丁香烯、雪松烯、肉桂醇、香豆素、乙酸二甲基苄基原酯、乙基香兰素、丁子香酚、异-丁子香酚、flor acetate、天芥菜精、水杨酸3-顺式-己烯基酯、水杨酸己酯、铃兰醛(对-叔丁基-α-甲基苯丙醛)、γ-甲基紫罗酮、merolidol、绿叶醇、苯基己醇、β-芹子烯(geta-selinene)、乙酸三氯甲基苯基原酯(trichloromethylphenyl carbonyl acetate)、柠檬酸三乙酯、香草醛和藜芦醛。雪松萜(Cedarterpenes)主要包含α-雪松烯、β-雪松烯和其它C15H24倍半萜。
较低挥发性高沸点香精成分的例子是:二苯酮、水杨酸苄酯、麝香T、佳乐麝香(1,3,4,6,7,8-六氢-4,6,6,7,8,8-六甲基-环戊-γ-2-苯并吡喃)、己基肉桂醛、新铃兰醛(4-(4-羟基-4-甲基戊基)-3-环己烯-1-甲醛)、甲基柏木酮(methylcedrylone)、二氢茉莉酮酸甲酯、甲基-β-萘基酮、茚满酮型麝香(muskindanone)、酮麝香、三甲苯麝香(musk tibetene)和苯乙酸苯乙酯。
如下文所说明,本发明中使用的香料也可以包含凉爽剂或凉爽剂的组合。凉爽剂是直接影响那些引起热感觉或冷感觉的神经末梢的化合物。适合的凉爽剂是薄荷醇、基于薄荷醇的羧酰亚胺(carboximides)或非环状的羧酰亚胺、樟脑、桉树脑(Eucalyptus)和基于薄荷醇的缩酮(缩醛)或非环状的缩酮(缩醛)。例如,用于本发明中的凉爽剂是选自以下的凉爽剂:3-(1-薄荷氧基)丙烷-1,2-二醇(3-(1-menthoxy)propane-1,2-diol)、N-取代的-对-薄荷烷-3-甲酰胺(N-substituted-p-menthane-3-carboxamides)和非环状的甲酰胺(carboxamides),以及它们的混合物。
3-(1-薄荷氧基)丙烷1,2-二醇充分详细地描述于美国专利说明书4,459,425。这种挥发性芳香剂(aromatic)可以从日本东京的TakasagoPerfumery Co.,LTD.以TJ-10商购得到。
N-取代的-对-薄荷烷-3-甲酰胺充分地描述于美国专利说明书4,136,163。例如,一种此类的凉爽剂是N-乙基-对-薄荷烷-3-甲酰胺,其可以从Wilkinson Sword Limited以WS-3商购得到。
有用的非环状甲酰胺充分地描述于美国专利说明书4,230,688。例如,一种此类的凉爽剂是比率分别为1∶75∶42的N,2,3-三甲基-2-异丙基丁酰胺。
本发明的另一种实施方式是含乳液的个人护理组合物,所述乳液含有连续水相以及遍及所述连续水相分布的不连续有机相,其中所述有机相包括:
a)在25℃呈液体的有机溶剂,和/或
b)稳定有机相的物质,其包含疏水性部分且是在有机相中比在水相中更易溶的物质,以及所述乳液还含有包胶香料,所述香料包胶在微粒中。
基于个人护理组合物的总重量,本发明个人护理组合物包含约0.01至约40重量%的乳液;例如,约1至约20重量%;以及,例如约2至约15重量%。
所述个人护理组合物还可以含有其它成分;例如,化妆可相容的载体或助剂,和任选的辅助成分。尽管水是化妆可相容的,并且在多数情况中也将存在,但是措辞“化妆可相容的载体或助剂”意在表示在个人护理或化妆组合物中通常使用的至少一种除水以外的物质。
本申请使用的“辅助成分”表示在制备有益剂聚合物递送体系(benefitagent polymeric delivery system)的过程中使用的那些成分。例如,这种递送体系包括个人护理/清洁用品和毛发用品等。辅助成分也称为产品制剂成分。
本发明个人护理组合物可以包含在很多种个人护理制品中。尤其可考虑的是例如以下制品:
·剃须制品,例如剃须皂、发泡剃须膏、非发泡剃须膏、泡沫和凝胶、用于干剃须的剃须前制品、剃须后用品或剃须后护肤蜜(aftershave lotions);
·皮肤护理制品,例如护肤乳液(skin emulsions)、多重乳液(multi-emulsions)或护肤油和爽身粉;
·化妆个人护理制品,例如面部化妆品,形式如下:唇膏、眼影、眼线膏、湿粉底、日霜或粉、润面露(facial lotions)、粉底化妆品、霜和粉末(散粉或粉饼);
·光防护制品,例如晒黑洗剂(sun tan lotions)、膏和油、防晒剂(sunblocks)和预晒黑制品;
·指甲化妆品,例如指甲光亮剂、指甲油、指甲油除去剂、指甲修整剂;
·除臭剂,例如除臭喷雾剂、泵送喷雾剂(pump-action sprays)、除臭凝胶、棒或走珠;
·止汗剂,例如止汗剂棒、霜膏(cream)或走珠;和
·固体/液体个人清洁用品,例如皂、清洁剂、洗发剂、调理剂、毛发处理剂(hair treatments)。
本发明的另一种实施方式是个人护理组合物,其被配制为油包水乳液或水包油乳液、醇或含醇制剂、离子或非离子两亲性类脂的囊泡分散体(vesicular dispersion)、凝胶或固体棒的含水体系或不含水体系。
本发明的另一种实施方式是还包括至少一种选自以下的其它组分的个人护理组合物:螯合剂、非包胶染料、香精、增稠或固化(稠度调节)剂、润肤剂、紫外线吸收剂、表面活性剂、漂白剂、皮肤防护剂、抗氧化剂和防腐剂。
本发明个人护理组合物可以含有一种或多种另外的皮肤护理、指甲护理或毛发护理组分。在优选的实施方式中,其中所述组合物应与人类角质组织接触,所述另外的组分应该适于施用于角质组织,即,当结合至组合物中时,它们适用于与人类角质组织接触,在合理的医疗诊断范围内无过度毒性、不相容性、不稳定性和变态反应等。
CTFA第二版(1992)的化妆品成分手册(Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook)描述了个人护理工业中常用的多种化妆品和药物成分,这些成分适用于本发明个人护理组合物中。
本发明可以任选地包含油结构剂(oil structurant)。所述结构剂能够为分散相提供适当的流变性质。这能够有助于提供在皮肤上的有效沉积和保留,在1Sec-1测量时,所述结构化的油或油相的粘度应为100至约200,000Pa·s,优选为200至约100,000Pa·s,并且最优选为200至约50,000Pa·s。产生该粘度所需要的结构剂的量将取决于所述油和结构剂而不同,但通常,所述结构剂将优选小于分散油相(dispersed oil phase)的75重量%,更优选为小于分散油相的50重量%,并且更加优选为小于分散油相的35重量%。
所述结构剂可以是有机结构剂或无机结构剂。适用于本发明的有机增稠剂的例子是固体脂肪酸酯、天然脂肪或改性脂肪、脂肪酸、脂肪胺、脂肪醇、天然蜡和合成蜡,和矿脂(petrolatum),以及Shell以商标销售的嵌段共聚物。无机结构剂包括疏水性改性的硅石或疏水性改性的粘土。无机结构剂的例子是来自Rheox的27V、BENTONE 38V或BENTONE GEL MIO V;以及来自Cabot Corporation的Cab-o-TS720或CAB-O-SIL M5。
使所选择的皮肤相容性油符合上述要求的结构剂能够形成3-维网络以增加所选择的油的粘度。已经发现,该结构化的油相(即,用所述3-维网络构建的油相)对于用作沐浴中使用的湿润皮肤处理组合物是非常理想的。这些结构化的油能够非常有效地沉积并保留在湿润皮肤上,并且在漂洗和干燥之后被保留,从而提供长效的洗后皮肤益处,同时不导致太油/腻的湿润感觉和干燥感觉。该结构化的油的非常理想的使用中(in-use)和使用后(after-use)性质被认为是由于它们的剪切致稀流变性质和弱的网络结构的原因。由于它的低剪切粘度(low-shear viscosity)高,所以在皮肤调理剂的施用期间,3-维网络结构化的油能够很好地粘着并保留在皮肤上。在沉积在皮肤上之后,由于晶体网络的弱结构化和结构化的油的高剪切粘度较低,所述网络在揉搓(rubbing)期间易于形成。
很多种表面活性剂可用于本申请中,既可以用于对分散相进行乳化以及提供可接受的铺展性,又可以用于改善非发泡体系的使用性能。对于清洁应用,所述表面活性剂相也用于清洁皮肤并提供给使用者可接受的量的泡沫。所述组合物的表面活性剂含量优选为不超过约50重量%,更优选为不超过约30重量%,更加优选为不超过约15重量%,并且甚至更优选为不超过约5重量%。所述组合物的表面活性剂含量优选为至少约5重量%,更优选为至少约3重量%,更加优选为至少约1重量%,并且甚至更优选为至少约0.1重量%。对于清洁应用,所述个人护理组合物产生的总泡沫体积如发泡体积测试中所述优选为至少300ml,更优选为多于600ml。优选地,所述个人护理组合物产生的总泡沫体积如发泡体积测试中所述为至少100ml,优选为多于200ml,更优选为多于300ml。
优选的表面活性剂包括选自以下的表面活性剂:阴离子表面活性剂、非离子表面活性剂、两性表面活性剂、非发泡表面活性剂、乳化剂和它们的混合物。可用于本发明组合物的表面活性剂的例子披露于美国专利说明书6,280,757。
可用于本发明个人护理组合物中的阴离子表面活性剂的例子披露于Allured Publishing Corporation出版的McCutcheon的Detergents andEmulsifiers,North American edition(1986);McCutcheon的FunctionalMaterials,North American Edition(1992);和美国专利说明书3,929,678。
阴离子表面活性剂的例子包括选自以下的阴离子表面活性剂:肌氨酸盐、硫酸盐、羟乙磺酸盐、牛磺酸盐、磷酸盐、乳酰乳酸盐(lactylates)、谷氨酸盐和它们的混合物。在羟乙磺酸盐中,烷酰基羟乙磺酸盐(alkoylisethionates)是优选的,以及在硫酸盐中,烷基硫酸盐和烷基醚硫酸盐是优选的。
可用于本申请的其它阴离子材料是脂肪酸皂(即,碱金属盐,例如,钠盐或钾盐),所述脂肪酸皂的脂肪酸通常具有约8至约24个碳原子,优选为约10至约20个碳原子。制备所述皂所使用的这些脂肪酸可以得自天然来源,例如衍生自植物或动物的甘油酯(例如,棕榈油、椰油、豆油、蓖麻油、牛油、猪脂等)。所述脂肪酸也可以是合成制备的。皂和它们的制备描述于美国专利说明书4,557,853。
其它阴离子材料包括磷酸盐,例如单烷基磷酸盐、二烷基磷酸盐和三烷基磷酸盐。可用于本申请的优选的阴离子发泡表面活性剂的例子包括选自以下的阴离子发泡表面活性剂:月桂基硫酸钠、月桂基硫酸铵、月桂基聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵、月桂基聚氧乙烯醚硫酸钠、十三烷基聚氧乙烯醚硫酸钠、鲸蜡基硫酸铵、鲸蜡基硫酸钠、椰油酰基羟乙磺酸铵(ammonium cocoylisethionate)、月桂酰基羟乙磺酸纳(sodium lauroyl isethionate)、月桂酰基乳酰乳酸钠(sodium lauroyl lactylate)、三乙醇胺月桂酰基乳酰乳酸盐(triethanolamine lauroyl lactylate)、己酰基乳酰乳酸钠(sodium caproyllactylate)、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠、肉豆蔻酰基肌氨酸钠、椰油酰基肌氨酸钠、月桂酰基甲基牛磺酸钠(sodium lauroyl methyl taurate)、椰油酰基甲基牛磺酸钠、月桂酰基谷氨酸钠、肉豆蔻酰基谷氨酸钠和椰油酰基谷氨酸钠和它们的混合物。
本申请尤其优选使用的是月桂基硫酸铵、月桂基聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠、椰油酰基肌氨酸钠、肉豆蔻酰基肌氨酸钠、月桂酰基乳酰乳酸钠和三乙醇胺月桂酰基乳酰乳酸盐。
用于本发明个人护理组合物中的非离子表面活性剂的例子披露于McCutcheon′s,Detergents and Emulsifiers,loc.cit,和McCutcheon′s,Functional Materials,loc.cit.。
可用于本申请中的非离子表面活性剂包括选自以下的非离子表面活性剂:烷基葡糖苷、烷基聚葡糖苷(alkyl polyglucosides)、多羟基脂肪酰胺、烷氧基化的脂肪酸酯、蔗糖酯、胺氧化物和它们的混合物。
可用于本申请的优选的非离子表面活性剂的例子是选自以下的非离子表面活性剂:C8-C14葡糖酰胺、C8-C14烷基聚葡糖苷、椰油酸蔗糖酯、月桂酸蔗糖酯、月桂胺氧化物、椰油胺氧化物和它们的混合物。
术语两性表面活性剂包括两性离子表面活性剂,所述两性离子表面活性剂作为两性表面活性剂的子集是本领域配制者所公知的。
很多种两性发泡表面活性剂可用于本发明个人护理组合物中。尤其有用的是被概括性地描述为脂族仲胺衍生物和脂族叔胺衍生物的那些,优选为氮为阳离子的那些,其中所述脂族基团(aliphatic radicals)可以是直链的或支链的,并且其中一个基团包含可离子化的水增溶性基团(ionizable watersolubilizing group),例如,羧基、磺酸根、硫酸根、磷酸根或膦酸根。
可用于本发明组合物的两性表面活性剂的例子披露于McCutcheon′s,Detergents and Emulsifiers,loc.cit.和McCutcheon′s,Functional Materials,loc.cit.。
两性离子表面活性剂的例子是选自以下的两性离子表面活性剂:甜菜碱(betaines)、磺基甜菜碱(sultaines)、羟磺基甜菜碱(hydroxysultaines)、烷基亚氨基乙酸盐(alkyliminoacetates)、亚氨基二烷酸盐(iminodialkanoates)、氨基烷酸盐(aminoalkanoates)和它们的混合物。
可用于本申请的优选的表面活性剂是以下的表面活性剂,其中所述阴离子表面活性剂选自:月桂酰基肌氨酸铵、十三烷基聚氧乙烯醚硫酸钠、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠、月桂基聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵、月桂基聚氧乙烯醚硫酸钠、月桂基硫酸铵、月桂基硫酸钠、椰油酰基羟乙磺酸铵、椰油酰基羟乙磺酸钠、月桂酰基羟乙磺酸钠、鲸蜡基硫酸钠、月桂酰基乳酰乳酸钠、三乙醇胺月桂酰基乳酰乳酸盐和它们的混合物;其中所述非离子表面活性剂选自:月桂胺氧化物、椰油胺氧化物、癸基聚葡萄糖苷、月桂基聚葡萄糖苷、椰油酸蔗糖酯、C12-14葡糖酰胺、月桂酸蔗糖酯和它们的混合物;以及其中所述两性表面活性剂选自:N-月桂酰胺基乙基-N-羧甲基氨基乙氧基乙酸二钠(disodium lauroamphodiacetate)、N-月桂酰胺基乙基-N-羟乙基氨基乙酸钠(sodium lauroamphoacetate)、鲸蜡基二甲基甜菜碱(cetyl dimethyl betaine)、椰油酰胺基丙基甜菜碱(cocoamidopropyl betaine)、椰油酰胺基丙基羟基磺基丙基甜菜碱(cocoamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine)和它们的混合物。
很多种非发泡表面活性剂可用于本申请中。本发明个人护理组合物可以包含足量的一种或多种非发泡表面活性剂以对分散相进行乳化,从而产生适当的颗粒尺寸和在湿润皮肤上良好的应用性能。
这些非发泡组合物的例子是:失水山梨醇聚氧乙烯(20)醚单月桂酸酯(Polysorbate 20)、聚氧乙烯(5)大豆甾醇、硬脂基聚氧乙烯(20)醚(Steareth-20)、十六/十八醇聚氧乙烯(20)醚(Ceteareth-20)、甲基葡糖聚氧丙烯(2)醚二硬脂酸酯、鲸蜡基聚氧乙烯(10)醚(Ceteth-10)、失水山梨醇聚氧乙烯(20)醚油酸酯(Polysorbate 80)、磷酸鲸蜡酯、磷酸鲸蜡酯钾(potassium cetyl phosphate)、鲸蜡基磷酸二乙醇胺(diethanolamine cetyl phosphate)、失水山梨醇聚氧乙烯(20)醚硬脂酸酯(Polysorbate 60)、硬脂酸甘油酯、硬脂酸聚乙二醇(100)酯、失水山梨醇聚氧乙烯(20)醚三油酸酯(Polysorbate 85)、失水山梨醇单月桂酸酯、月桂基聚氧乙烯(4)醚、硬脂酸钠、异硬脂酸聚甘油(4)酯、月桂酸己酯、硬脂基聚氧乙烯(20)醚、十六/十八醇聚氧乙烯(20)醚、甲基葡糖聚氧丙烯(2)醚二硬脂酸酯、鲸蜡基聚氧乙烯(10)醚、鲸蜡基磷酸二乙醇胺、硬脂酸甘油酯、硬脂酸聚乙二醇(100)酯和它们的混合物。
此外,存在数种可用于本发明个人护理组合物的一些实施方式中的商业乳化剂混合物。例子包括来自ISP的PROLIPID 141(硬脂酸甘油酯、山萮醇、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、卵磷脂、月桂醇、肉豆蔻醇和鲸蜡醇)和151(硬脂酸甘油酯、十六/十八醇(cetearyl alcohol)、硬脂酸、3-氨基-N-(2-羟基乙基)-N,N-二甲基-N-C16-18酰基-1-丙铵衍生物,例如氯化物(1-propanamium,3-amino,N-(2-hydroxyethyl),N,N-Dimethyl,N-C16-18 acyl derivatives,e.g chlorides));来自Croda的POLAWAX NF(乳化蜡NF)、INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS(山萮基三甲基硫酸铵和十六/十八醇);以及来自Gattefosse的EMULLIUMDELTA(鲸蜡醇、硬脂酸甘油酯、硬脂酸聚乙二醇(75)酯、鲸蜡基聚氧乙烯(20)醚和硬脂基聚氧乙烯(20)醚)。
本发明个人护理组合物还可以包含一种或多种增稠/水相稳定剂(thickening/aqueous phase stability agents)。因为不同稳定剂的增稠效率不同,所以难以提供准确的组成范围,当存在时,所述增稠/水相稳定剂占个人护理组合物的百分数优选为不超过约10.0重量%,更优选为不超过约8.0重量%,并且更加优选为不超过约7.0重量%。当存在时,所述增稠/水相稳定剂占个人护理组合物的百分数优选为至少约0.01重量%,更优选为至少约0.05重量%,并且更加优选为至少约0.1重量%。描述稳定剂的较好的方法是它必须增加产品中的粘度。这可以使用稳定剂粘度测试(Stability AgentViscosity Test)来测量。优选地,稳定剂在这种测试中产生的粘度为至少1000cps,更优选为至少1500cps,并且更加优选为至少2000cps。
可用于本申请的增稠剂的例子包括羧酸聚合物如卡波姆(carbomers)(例如可以从B.F.Goodrich以商品名900系列商购得到的那些;例如,954)。其它合适的羧酸聚合试剂包括丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯(C10-30 alkyl acrylates)与下面一种或多种单体的共聚物,所述一种或多种单体选自丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸或丙烯酸和甲基丙烯酸的一种短链(即,C1-4醇)酯,其中交联剂是蔗糖烯丙基醚或季戊四醇烯丙基醚。这些共聚物被称为丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯交联聚合物,并且可以以1342、CARBOPOL 1382、TR-1和PEMULEN TR-2(B.F.Goodrich)商购得到。
增稠剂的其它例子包括交联的聚丙烯酸酯聚合物,所述交联的聚丙烯酸酯聚合物包括阳离子聚合物和非离子聚合物。
增稠剂的其它例子包括聚丙烯酰胺聚合物,尤其为非离子聚丙烯酰胺聚合物,所述非离子聚丙烯酰胺聚合物包括取代的支化或非支化的聚合物。在这些聚丙烯酰胺聚合物中,更优选的是可以从Seppic Corporation(Fairfield,USA)以商品名305商购得到的CTFA命名为聚丙烯酰胺和异链烷烃和月桂基聚氧乙烯(7)醚的非离子聚合物。可用于本申请的其它聚丙烯酰胺聚合物包括丙烯酰胺或取代的丙烯酰胺与丙烯酸或取代的丙烯酸的多嵌段共聚物。这些多嵌段共聚物的可商购得到的例子包括来自LipoChemicals,Inc.,(Patterson,USA)的SR150H、SS500V、SS500W、SSSA100H。
可用于本申请的另一类增稠剂是多糖。多糖胶凝剂的例子包括选自纤维素和纤维素衍生物的多糖胶凝剂。在烷基羟烷基纤维素醚中优选的是可以从Aqualon Corporation(Wilmington,USA)以商品名CS PLUS商购得到的CTFA命名为鲸蜡基羟乙基纤维素(cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose)的物质,该物质是鲸蜡醇和羟乙基纤维素的醚。其它有用的多糖包括硬葡聚糖(scleroglucans),所述硬葡聚糖是直链的(1-3)连接的葡萄糖单元,且每三个单元具有(1-6)个连接的葡萄糖,可商购得到的例子是来自MichelMercier Products Inc.(Mountainside,USA)的CS 11。
可用于本申请的另一类增稠剂是胶(gums)。可用于本申请的胶的例子包括水辉石(hectorite)、硅凝胶(hydrated silica)、黄原胶(xantham gum)和它们的混合物。
可用于本申请的另一类增稠剂是变性淀粉。可以使用丙烯酸酯改性的淀粉如(Grain Processing Corporation)。磷酸羟丙基淀粉(Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate)(National Starch的Structure XL)是有用的改性淀粉的另一例子,以及其它有用的例子包括Clariant的HMB(丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸铵(Ammonium Acrylodimethyltaruate)/甲基丙烯酸山萮基聚氧乙烯(25)酯交联聚合物)和阳离子stabylens。
本发明个人护理组合物也可以包含有机阳离子沉积聚合物。基于个人护理组合物的重量,所述阳离子沉积聚合物的浓度优选为约0.025%至约3.0%,更优选为约0.05%至约2.0%,甚至更优选为约0.1%至约1.0%。
用于本发明的合适的阳离子沉积聚合物包含含氮的阳离子部分(cationic nitrogen-containing moieties)如季铵部分或阳离子质子化氨基部分(cationic protonated amino moieties)。取决于个人清洁组合物的特定种类和所选择的pH,所述阳离子质子化的胺可以是伯胺、仲胺或叔胺(优选为仲胺或叔胺)。阳离子沉积聚合物的平均分子量为约5,000至约1×106,优选为至少约100,000,更优选为至少约200,000,但是优选为不超过约2×106,更优选为不超过约1.5×106。在个人清洁组合物预期用途的pH时,聚合物的阳离子电荷密度为约0.2meq/g至约5meq/g,优选为至少约0.4meq/g,更优选为至少约0.6meq/g,所述pH将为约pH 4至约pH 9,优选为约pH 5至约pH 8。
用于个人护理组合物中的阳离子沉积聚合物的例子包括多糖聚合物,例如阳离子纤维素衍生物。优选的阳离子纤维素聚合物是羟乙基纤维素与取代有三甲基铵的环氧化物反应所得到的盐,在工业(CTFA)中称为聚季铵盐10(Polyquaternium 10),其可得自Amerchol Corp.(Edison,N.J.,USA)的Polymer KG、JR和LR聚合物系列,最优选为KG-30M。
其它合适的阳离子沉积聚合物包括阳离子瓜尔胶衍生物如瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵(guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride),具体例子包括可以从Rhodia Inc.商购得到的Jaguar系列(优选为Jaguar C-17)和可以从Aqualon商购得到的N-Hance聚合物系列。
其它合适的阳离子沉积聚合物包括合成阳离子聚合物。适用于本申请个人清洁组合物中的所述阳离子聚合物是水溶性的或水可分散的,非交联的阳离子聚合物,所述阳离子聚合物的阳离子电荷密度为约4meq/g至约7meq/g,优选为约4meq/g至约6meq/g,更优选为约4.2meq/g至约5.5meq/g。所选择的聚合物的平均分子量也必须为约1,000至约1×106,优选为约10,000至约500,000,更优选为约75,000至约250,000。
基于组合物的重量,所述阳离子聚合物在个人护理组合物中的浓度为约0.025%至约5.0%,优选为约0.1%至约3.0%,更优选为约0.2%至约1.0%。
任选成分的其它例子包括选自以下的有益剂:维生素及其衍生物(例如,抗坏血酸、维生素E和乙酸生育酚酯(tocopheryl acetate)等);防晒剂;增稠剂(例如,可以从Croda以CROTHIX得到的烷氧基多元醇酯(polyolalkoxy ester));用于维持清洁组合物的抗微生物完整性的防腐剂;抗痤疮药剂(例如间苯二酚、水杨酸等);抗氧化剂;皮肤抚慰和治愈剂如芦荟提取物、尿囊素等;螯合剂(chelators)和多价螯合剂(sequestrants);和适用于美观用途(aesthetic purposes)的试剂如香料、精油、皮肤感觉剂(skin sensates)、颜料、珠光剂(例如,云母和二氧化钛)、色淀、染料等(例如,丁子香油、薄荷醇、樟脑、桉油(eucalyptus oil)和丁子香酚),抗菌剂和它们的混合物。可以将这些材料以足以提供需要的益处的范围进行使用,这一点对于本领域技术人员是显而易见的。
本发明个人护理组合物可以通过用本领域公知的方法将含包胶香料的适合的乳液物理共混至个人护理组合物或制剂中而制备。实施例阐明了几种该方法。
在所述方法的一种实施方式中,所述个人护理或化妆组合物包含包胶香料的共混物,所述包胶香料单独地提供在单一的聚合物基质材料(singlepolymeric matrix material)中。在另一种实施方式中,所述个人护理或化妆组合物包含如上所述含不同包胶香料的微粒的共混物,所述包胶香料单独地提供在分开的聚合物基质材料(separate polymeric matrix materials)中。
本发明的另一种实施方式是对毛发和皮肤进行护理/清洁的方法,所述方法包括以下步骤:
a)将毛发和/或皮肤用水湿润,
b)将有效量的个人护理组合物施用至毛发和/或皮肤,所述个人护理组合物在乳液中包胶香料,以及
c)用水将组合物从毛发和/或皮肤漂洗掉。
可以根据需要将这些步骤重复多次,以实现希望的个人护理和香料沉积益处。
本发明的另一种实施方式是将香料递送至身体的改进方法,所述方法包括以下步骤:
a)将有效量的个人护理组合物施用至身体的至少一部分,所述个人护理组合物包括含包胶香料的乳液;以及
b)用足够的力揉搓身体的受影响部分(effected part),以有效地使个人护理组合物均匀分布。
本发明组合物可以含有另外的聚合物作为辅助成分,所述另外的聚合物与可以预混有香精聚合物粒子和/或聚合物粒子的微粒分离。
具体实施方式
以下实施例描述了本发明的某些实施方式,但本发明不限于此。
实施例1
含包胶香料的乳液的制备
油相是通过将10.0份植物香料(floral fragrance)(Moonlight Path,IFF)、5.0份化妆品级油TN(苯甲酸C12-15烷基酯,Fintex),以及2.0份甲基丙烯酸硬脂酯、苯乙烯和马来酸酐(60/30/10重量%)的油溶性稳定剂共聚物添加至25ml烧杯而制备。搅拌混合物直至得到均匀溶液。水相是通过在单独的150ml烧杯中添加60.0份去离子水(DI)、7.0份丙二醇和11.0份实施例7中制备的乳液共聚物而制备。将混合物用Silverson均化器以低速搅拌,直至所有组分溶解。当缓慢地添加油相时,将均化器速度提高。将所得的具有包胶香料的乳液以一定速度均化以得到直径为1-5微米的粒子。用常青树香料(evergreen fragrance)重复所述操作。得到含包胶香料的乳液。
实施例2
使用含包胶香料的乳液制备调理洗发剂
制备含所述包胶香料的调理洗发剂:
在适当的容器中,将部分A加入并开始中度搅拌。将部分B加入并将混合物加热至70℃。在每次添加之间,一边搅拌一边添加部分C的成分。将混合物混合20分钟,然后冷却。将部分D的成分加入并混合至均匀。将混合物冷却至50℃。将部分E加入,混合15分钟并冷却至35℃。在混合期间,添加部分F的成分。将部分G中的香料加入并混合均匀。然后将泥料(batch)冷却至室温。
实施例3
在发缕上对洗发剂的评价
将发缕用2ml实施例2中的制剂处理并揉搓1分钟。然后将发缕用水漂洗30秒。将发缕风干。
使每位评审成员嗅闻编有号码的发缕并且要求其确定是否对每一发缕能够检测出较强的香味,或者是否无差别。评审结果示于下表。
这阐明,用本发明调理洗发剂处理的毛发比用不含包胶香料的调理洗发剂处理的毛发保留较强的香味。
实施例4
制备含包胶香草香料(Vanilla Fragrance)的乳液
油相是通过将5.0份香草精(Carrubba)、2.5份化妆品级油FINSOLV TN(苯甲酸C12-15烷基酯,Fintex)和2.0份油溶性稳定剂(失水山梨醇单油酸酯,80)添加至25ml烧杯而制备。搅拌混合物,直至得到均匀溶液。水相是通过在单独的100ml烧杯中加入35.0份去离子水、3.75份丁二醇和7.0份实施例7中得到的乳液共聚物而制备。将混合物用Silverson均化器以低速搅拌,直至所有组分溶解。当缓慢地添加油相时,将均化器速度提高。将所得的乳液以一定速度均化以得到直径为1-5微米的粒子。
实施例5
制备含包胶芒果香料(Mango Fragrance)的乳液
油相是通过将5.0份芒果油香料(Mango Oil,Carrubba)、2.5份化妆品级油FINSOLV TN(苯甲酸C12-15烷基酯,Fintex)和2.0份油溶性稳定剂(失水山梨醇单油酸酯,80)添加至25ml烧杯而制备。搅拌混合物,直至得到均匀溶液。水相是通过在单独的100ml烧杯中加入35.0份去离子水、3.75份丁二醇和7.0份实施例7中得到的乳液共聚物而制备。将混合物用Silverson均化器以低速搅拌,直至所有组分溶解。当缓慢地添加油相时,将均化器速度提高。将所得的乳液以一定速度均化以得到直径为1-5微米的粒子。
实施例6
制备含包胶橘子香料(encapsulated orange)的乳液
油相是通过将5.0份橘子油(Orange Oil,IFF)、2.5份化妆品级油FINSOLV TN和2.0份油溶性稳定剂(失水山梨醇单油酸酯,SPAN 80)添加至25ml烧杯而制备。搅拌混合物,直至得到均匀溶液。水相是通过在单独的100ml烧杯中加入35.0份去离子水、3.75份丁二醇,以及7.0份由丙烯酸丁酯、丙烯酸乙酯、甲基丙烯酸甲酯和甲基丙烯酸(30/30/25/15重量%,水溶性稳定剂(aqueous stabilizer))组成的共聚物而制备。将混合物用Silverson均化器以低速搅拌,直至所有组分溶解。当缓慢地添加油相时,将均化器速度提高。将所得的乳液以一定速度均化以得到直径为1-5微米的粒子。稳定性如下确定:基于乳液在下列条件储存一周之后当对香料强度的人嗅闻测试(human stiff test)进行判断时是否明显地释放香味。
Org.Stab.是油溶性稳定剂;Aq.Stab.是水溶性稳定剂;PG是丙二醇。组分的重量用g表示。所得产品的稳定性在45℃1周之后测定。对试验A-E的每种组合物均未得到稳定性。这表明,不对香料进行包胶会导致不稳定的香料组合物或乳液。
实施例7
芯壳共聚物的制备
向配有必需辅助设备的实验室反应器添加铵盐形式的苯乙烯/丙烯酸共聚物(铵盐形式的65重量%苯乙烯/35重量%丙烯酸共聚物,988g,分子量为7,000)、水(3520g)、过硫酸铵(3.4g)和TETRALON B(1.5g)。将搅拌的反应器内容物加热至85℃。将单体溶液[苯乙烯(1294g)和丙烯酸2-乙基己酯(1058g)的溶液]和引发剂溶液[溶解在水(210g)中的过硫酸铵(9g)的溶液]同时添加。将单体溶液历经3小时加入,而引发剂溶液历经4小时加入。将所得的聚合物乳液冷却至环境温度以及固含量为约46%。粒子组分是芯,70份苯乙烯/丙烯酸2-乙基己酯共聚物(55/45,分子量250,000),以及壳,30份(65/35)苯乙烯/丙烯酸共聚物。芯-壳的粒子尺寸典型为约80nm至约120nm。玻璃化转变温度(Tg)为37℃。
Claims (2)
1.一种含遍及连续水相分布的有机不连续相的乳液,其中所述有机相包括:
a)在25℃呈液体的有机溶剂,和
b)有机相稳定化物质,所述有机相稳定化物质是甲基丙烯酸硬脂醇酯/马来酸酐/苯乙烯共聚物,其中基于单体重量,所述单体重量比率为60/10/30,
以及所述乳液还包括包胶香料,所述香料包胶在微粒中;
其中所述微粒为核-壳构型,以及
其中所述微粒的壳部分由以下物质组成:由甲基丙烯酸或丙烯酸和乙烯基单体的组合形成的聚合物,所述乙烯基单体选自:苯乙烯、烷基化苯乙烯、(甲基)丙烯酸丁酯、(甲基)丙烯酸甲酯和它们的混合物,
其中所述微粒的核部分由以下物质组成:由能够形成玻璃化转变温度Tg低于50℃的共聚物的甲基丙烯酸酯或丙烯酸酯单体和苯乙烯的组合形成的聚合物。
2.含有效量的如权利要求1所述的乳液的个人护理组合物。
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US87593806P | 2006-12-20 | 2006-12-20 | |
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PCT/EP2007/063567 WO2008074675A1 (en) | 2006-12-20 | 2007-12-10 | Emulsions containing encapsulated fragrances and personal care compositions |
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JP5536457B2 (ja) | 2014-07-02 |
JP2010513369A (ja) | 2010-04-30 |
EP2091511A1 (en) | 2009-08-26 |
WO2008074675A1 (en) | 2008-06-26 |
BRPI0720424A2 (pt) | 2013-12-31 |
US20080153736A1 (en) | 2008-06-26 |
CN101568325A (zh) | 2009-10-28 |
US8076280B2 (en) | 2011-12-13 |
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