CN101133200A

CN101133200A - Washable wool stretch fabrics with dimensional stability

Info

Publication number: CN101133200A
Application number: CNA2006800070455A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 高彤; A·洛拉拉米亚
Original assignee: Dow Global Technologies LLC
Current assignee: Dow Global Technologies LLC
Priority date: 2005-03-04
Filing date: 2006-03-03
Publication date: 2008-02-27
Anticipated expiration: 2026-03-03
Also published as: EP1859091A1; DE602006011130D1; EP1859091B1; ES2334825T3; US20090011672A1; CA2599102A1; BRPI0607993A2; AU2006220812A1; JP2008538388A; CN101133200B; WO2006096567A1; ATE452230T1

Abstract

The present disclosure is directed to washable wool stretch or elastic textile articles which are dimensionally stable. Preferably, the articles are characterized in that they have not been subjected to temperatures greater than 1600C. The disclosure is also directed to a method to make dimensionally stable wool stretch articles characterized by the absence of a traditional heat-setting step.

Description

Washable wool stretch fabrics with DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

The present invention relates to have the machine washable wool stretch fabrics of good DIMENSIONAL STABILITY.This fabric also has improved heat settability.On the one hand, the present invention relates to contain the stockinette of wool fibre and elastomer, wherein elastomer comprises crosslinked, heat resistant elastic fibre, and this kind fabric do not need heat setting, but the fabric of this arrangement repeatedly has splendid DIMENSIONAL STABILITY after the washing.

The fabric of being made by wool fibre to small part is well known in the art.Be known that equally these fabrics in the fabric wet process or because the consumer uses and nurses, may shrink or otherwise distortion.Wool is by constituting around the crossover scale (overlapping scales) of inner core (internal core) is outer, and this inner core is by the slender spindle-shaped cellularity of countless length, and this skin mainly is made up of keratin.Except the crossover part---begin in this one deck scale termination and another layer scale, skin only has one deck scale usually on thickness.Scale is all usually along the fiber directed outside, towards the tip.It is believed that this structure causes the contraction in the common wet scrubbing process, because this profile of fiber has promoted moving on the fibrous root extreme direction.The difference of this behavior and ratchet mechanism (ratchet mechanism) is that relative motion is unidirectional.Fiber becomes and more and more tightens, and tightens and form wool " felt " fully up to them.Reported in the presence of water, when particularly combining with mechanical agitation, felting (felting) aggravation.

In order to prevent this contraction, adopted chemical treatment to peel off the outer scale of wool.In case scale is removed, " felting " phenomenon is promptly eliminated, and contraction is minimized.The various chemical treatments of adopting are at present carried out on wool top (wool top) usually, and comprise various chlorine treatment, the potassium permanganate that combines with hypochlorite handles (referring to GB 569,730), sodium sulphate is handled (being sometimes referred to as International Wool Secretariat Process), oxidizing ferment or peroxidase processing (referring to US 5,980,579) and permonosulphuric acid handle.People advise that also permonosulphuric acid is handled and can be carried out with controlling dimension stability on the ready-made clothes that wool fabric is made.These processing methods have been made and can be labeled as " Machine Washable " or " the fully easily nursing " fabric and the clothes of (this shows that these clothes are suitable for using the washing agent of no bleaching agent and enzyme, adopts family's machine washing of the pure wool designation program (wool grease scouring or 40 ℃ of soft programs) of approval).

If clothes meet following industrial standard, promptly be considered to machine-washable:

Clothes/dimensional stability for fabric:

Washing back DIMENSIONAL STABILITY is less than ± 3% (can washing wet the measurement according to the ISW Tm 31:5cyclesofISO 6330 5A wash of modification)

According to DIMENSIONAL STABILITY behind the steam ironing of ISO 3005 less than ± 3%

Though existing Machine Washable Woolens, they do not contain elastomer at present and help to provide extensibility for this fabric.At fashion industry, extensible clothes become more and more popular.Use spandex fibre making extensile wool fabric, but this kind fabric is owing to there not being suitable dimensions stability to be considered to wash with wool.In addition, the chemical treatment of handling as above-mentioned chlorine or permonosulphuric acid is considered to spandex and Yan Taiqiang, it can cause the unacceptable damaged degree of spandex fibre, has therefore limited technological flexibility, because this chemical treatment should be carried out under the situation that does not have spandex fibre.

In addition, dimensional instability itself even before fabric is exposed in the water, just occur, because shown in the fabric width in fabric width difference between the different fabric warrpings or the identical fabric volume changed, wool/spandex fibre was reported in the uniformity that the fabric width aspect has extreme difference.

In order to overcome these problems, wish to use the existing fabric manufacturer of wool/spandex fabric at high temperature to use one or more additional heat shaping process usually, and adjust extremely required scope of fabric width with " fix " fabric width.

Heat setting is the common method that reduces or eliminate dimensional instability.The heat setting process generally includes time and the temperature with the fabric size when applying thermosetting process that the formative memory (morphology memory) of synthetic fiber is reformed, and makes fabric pass through heating region.Time that heat treatment is required and temperature depend on the factor as the thermal history before the type of other fiber that exists in fabric construction, fabric weight, the fabric, synthetic fiber and this synthetic fiber.For the elastic force textiles, Bian Zhi stockinette particularly, the dimensional instability problem is especially obvious.

For stockinette, for example contain those of spandex, typical heat-setting condition is 180 ℃ to 210 ℃ to be descended 15 to 90 seconds.These harsh relatively conditions influence the toughness of companion with (companion) fiber unfriendly, and cause changing color of textile.In addition, heat setting step normally increases the additional step of fabric production process expense.Shown in the fabric width in fabric width difference between the different fabric warrpings or the identical fabric volume changed, wool/spandex fibre of putting in order was reported in the uniformity that the fabric width aspect has extreme difference.The heat setting process causes the fabric extension level of putting in order inconsistent.

Therefore, the wool fabric that contains elastomer of dimensionally stable is desirable, and it does not need special heat setting step, so that heat setting can be finished simultaneously with other step in the fabric production process.

Therefore the present invention relates to the wool fabric that comprises stretching or elastomer, and this fabric keeps its DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, preferably need not traditional heat setting step.The invention still further relates to the method for making wool stretch fabrics with good dimensional stability, wherein this method is a feature with the chemical treatment of removing wool scale, and is feature there not to be any step of carrying out in the manufacture process under 160 ℃ or higher temperature further.This stockinette can also comprise other fiber, comprises cellulose family, and is more preferably synthetic, comprises polyolefin, for example polyethylene and/or polypropylene, polyester, polyamide and segmented polyurethane fibre.The stockinette of putting in order preferably has less than ± 5%, is more preferably less than ± 3%, and more more preferably in ± 2.0%, the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY in ± 1.5% most preferably.Dimensional stability values shown in the present invention is meant and the laundering in AATCC135-1987 definition adds rotary drying (preferably pass through drying means: the A-rotary drying) size of fabric on length and width of putting in order before the vs. afterwards is poor.Negative value shows that final washed size is shorter than original size, promptly shrinks.

The invention still further relates to being that 9% to 30% consistent the elongation is the fabric of feature according to method of testing IWS TM 179.Feature of the present invention is that also the finished product fabric color visible flavescence can not occur.

Machine washable wool stretch fabrics of the present invention contains wool fibre and elastomer at least.Wool fibre of the present invention can be the wool fibre of any kind that uses in the clothing industry.Common used wool is the fiber from sheep or baby lamb, but for example also comprises the fiber from the hair of Angora goat or Kashmir goat, camel, alpaca, no peak camel, vigone and Angora rabbit.Wool can exist with any amount, but most preferably is 20 to 99 weight %.According to required purposes, desirably have at least 35%, 50%, 60% or even 70% wool, similarly, purposes can be stipulated to have and be less than 98%, 97%, 96%, 95%, 80%, 75% or 70% wool.

Regardless of originating, the wool fibre under the native state is a feature to have scale, and the ratchet shape (ratchet down) that these scales are tending towards being downward is also interlocked with one another, in being called the process of felting fiber is combined thus.Therefore, handle wool fibre used among the present invention to remove at least a portion scale.This processing method is well known in the art, and can use any these class methods in the present invention.Common method comprises chlorine treatment and permonosulphuric acid processing.May chemically treated example used in this invention be included in US 5,980,579, describe among WO2005/005710, EP 0687764, US 5,571,286, US 5,755,827 and the WO9502085 those, they are incorporated herein by this reference separately in full.

Can carry out scale at the arbitrary steps in the clothing process and remove processing.For example, best in many cases is to remove scale as first step, so that in any follow-up production process, felting can not occur, but in other cases, by the time make final ready-made clothes and handle whole clothing immediately so that remove to the small part scale from wool fibre, this can be useful.Also can be in intermediate steps, for example after forming silver, wool top, rove, yarn (, comprising elastomeric yarn) if mix with elastomer; Or carry out this processing after making fabric.Usually carrying out this processing on the wool top or on ready-made clothes.

Machine Washable fabric of the present invention and clothing are that stretch or flexible, and it is meant that for the purpose of the present invention they contain elastomer.For the purpose of the present invention, elastomer be first elongate the back and be stretched to 100% strain (double length) the 4th time after, can recover the about at least 50% of its tensile elongation, more preferably about at least fiber of 60%, more preferably 70%.A kind of proper method of carrying out this test is based at International Bureau for Standardization ofManmade Fibers, and that finds among BISFA 1998, the 7 chapter option A is the sort of.When this tests, fiber is placed between the anchor clamps group at 4 inches at interval, draw back to 8 inches distance with the about 20 inches speed of per minute immediately, it is recovered at once.Elastic force textiles of the present invention preferably has high percent elastic recovery (promptly low percent permanent set) after applying bias force.Ideally, elastomeric material is with the feature that is combined into of three kinds of critical natures, that is: low stress or the load during (i) strain; (ii) low percent stress relaxation or load relaxation; (iii) low percentage permanent set.In other words, should have (i) stretch this material required low stress or load; In case (ii) this material is tightened up, zero or low stress relaxation or off-load; (iii) after stopping, tension, biasing or strain return to original size fully or highly.

Elastomer comprises that some is by the fiber of making as polyethylene or polyacrylic polyolefin and block polyurethane.The elastomer that uses among the present invention is preferred enough durable removes processing to bear scale, so that can carry out this type of processing in the presence of elastomer.Therefore, preferably, elastomer is crosslinked polyamide fiber, more preferably crosslinked polyethylene fiber, and wherein crosslinked even branched ethylene polymer is preferred especially.At US 6,437, described this material in 014 (it is incorporated herein by this reference in full), and be referred to as lastol.This fibrid can be with trade name DOW XLA fiber available from The Dow Chemical Company.Elastomer preferably constitutes 2 to 20 weight % of goods.According to required purposes, goods preferably contain at least 3,4,5,6,7,8,9 or even 10% elastomer, similarly, required purposes can stipulate to have the elastomer less than 20,15,10,9,8,7,6 or 5%.It is desirable that knitwear are contained the elastomer of Duoing than textiles.

Although not necessarily preferred, in goods of the present invention, can use the elastomer of more than one types.But, elastomer does not preferably comprise the fiber of being made by block polyurethane, because this material may be degraded, and under the situation that is being higher than 160 ℃ of heat settings, further promoted dimensional instability under the harsh relatively chemical treatment conditions of sheet that is used to scale.

Be used for elastomer of the present invention and can have any thickness, although the 20-140 DENIER is most preferred, particularly when this fiber is preferred crosslinked even branched ethylene polymer.The lastol fiber of 40 DENIER and 70 DENIER is because commercial availability and especially preferred.Except that monfil, elastomer can also be a conjugate fiber, for example, and sheath/core bicomponent fiber.As known in the art, elastomer can use barely, or at first sneaks into multifilament, for example, in the envelope curve, or sneaks into staple fiber, for example, and in the cladded yarn.In preferred embodiments, this elastomer and wool match network spins to form stretch wool.

Textiles of the present invention can further contain additional non-resilient natural or synthetic fiber.Non-resilient synthetic fiber comprise those that made by for example material of polyester, nylon, polyethylene, polypropylene and composition thereof.Natural fabric comprises the fiber of being made by for example cellulosic material of cotton, flax, ramie, rayon, viscose glue and hemp.In textiles of the present invention, also can use natural fabric, for example comprise the fiber of silk or mohair from other material.

Can make washable wool stretch fabrics of the present invention by any conventional method.Therefore, goods of the present invention comprise weaving (wherein, elastomer or yarn can be at warp-wises, broadwise or on two directions) or knitting fabric, comprise through (for example compiling, Milanese, Raschel and Tricot braiding), weft knitting (for example, circular knit and cross machine knitting) and clothes knitting skill, for example dipped goods.The type of knitted structure neither limiting factor of the present invention.Known structure type comprises plain weave single jersey (plain single jersey), contain single jersey (for example Lapique, Cross-mis 1 * 1, the Lacoste ﹠amp of seam pleat and empty needle; Plain pique), double jersey (as Plain Rib and Plain Interlock), contain double jersey (for example Milano Rib, Cardigan, the Single Pique ﹠amp of seam pleat and empty needle; Punto di Roma).

Wool fabric, particularly knitting wool fabric knownly lacks DIMENSIONAL STABILITY in family's laundering process, for example, excessively stretch or shrink.Therefore the conventional method of manufacturing needles fabric comprises the heat setting step, particularly when this fabric comprises the fiber that contains synthetic polymer.After knitting, carry out the heat setting step, and can before dyeing or after the dyeing, carry out.This heat setting process generally includes and applies bias force so that fabric remains on its required size (using stenter usually), and it is imposed high temperature, particularly than this fiber or goods in subsequent processes (for example, dyeing) or use the high temperature of any temperature that may run in (for example washing, dry and/or flatiron).Although do not want to be limited by theory, the heat setting process is considered to usually following carrying out: heat-set temperature makes at least a portion crystal fusion in the fiber.Subsequently fabric is removed from thermal source, and made puddle crystallization again, remove bias force subsequently.Crystallization makes this fabric have the size " memory " that this fabric is kept in the heat setting process again, even removes behind the bias force also like this.

Have been found that by selecting some to be used for the synthetic elastomer of knitted fabric, can omit the heat setting step, still make fabric simultaneously with acceptable DIMENSIONAL STABILITY.Therefore one aspect of the present invention relates to the method for making the Machine Washable tricot de laine, it is characterized in that entire method carries out being lower than about 160 ℃ temperature.Content according to other fiber that constitutes fabric can use even lower temperature under the situation of not sacrificing DIMENSIONAL STABILITY.Therefore, entire method can be lower than 150 ℃, 140 ℃, 125 ℃, 100 ℃ or even 80 ℃ temperature under carry out.

In certain embodiments of the invention, this method is a feature there not to be tentering further.Therefore, yarn or the fiber needle that contains certain at least elastomeric material can be made into fabric, and can directly impose required arrangement processing, and not need to be placed on fabric in the stenter and make it bear the high temperature relevant usually with heat setting to fabric.

Arrangement is handled and is preferably included the step that at least one temperature is higher than 80 ℃.Fabric to be being similar to the mode of traditional hot setting method thus, but under lower temperature, and need not special equipment with the situation of guaranteeing bias force under with fabric " setting ".Typical case arrangement step is carried out under 80 ℃ or higher temperature, and this is enough for purpose, but this kind fabric can not bear so high temperature usually in daily use and nursing process.

The invention still further relates to Machine Washable wool textile product with stretching and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY.For the present invention, " textiles " comprises fabric of putting in order and the product of being made by this fabric, comprises sheet and other lingerie and clothes.Goods of the present invention, plain weave single jersey particularly of the present invention, preferably be stretched to (1) horizontal 100% and/or (2) vertical 45% (for 50 mm wides, the sample that gauge length is 100 millimeters, all these are all with the extension speed of 500 mm/min) return to rapidly afterwards than the big size below 20% of its original size.More preferably, this product return to original size 15% in, more preferably return in 10%.It should be understood that stretching and amount of recovery become with fabric weight and fabric structure.Also expect, goods of the present invention have stretching in more than one direction, and this is preferred for many purposes really.Within the scope of the invention, goods needn't have identical amount of tension on each direction.

Textiles of the present invention is a dimensionally stable.For the present invention, " dimensionally stable " is meant the change of stockinette on either direction less than 5% (elongation or shrink), more preferably on either direction less than 3%, more preferably on either direction less than 2%, most preferably in ± 1.5%.Shrink the canonical form that is considered to dimensional instability usually, and fabric of the present invention has on width and/or length direction the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY that is higher than (promptly so not negative)-5%, preferably be higher than-4%, more preferably be higher than-3%, most preferably be higher than-2% (0% representative does not have contraction or elongation).By the fabric put in order the difference driven dimension stability value of the size on length and width before the vs. after laundering.For size up stability, measure the length and the width of goods put, subsequently goods are laundered (AATCC135-1987 drying means for example: the method described in the A-rotary drying).Measure length and width after the laundering again, and calculate percentage: DIMENSIONAL STABILITY=(new size-original size)/original size according to following formula.Those skilled in the art are understood that easily negative value is meant that final washed size is shorter than original size, promptly shrink.

Should be understood that according to the fiber that exists in the fabric, certain heat setting can be favourable, even do not need this type of heat setting owing to use preferred elastic fiber of the present invention.For example, if there is polyester, can advantageously use temperature about 160 ℃ only to provide DIMENSIONAL STABILITY to polyester content.Even cotton-containing fabrics also usually is exposed to up to dry so that handle the back in dressing under 140 ℃ the temperature.Therefore, for cotton-containing fabrics of the present invention, the arrangement step up to 140 ℃ may be desirable.

After forming nature fabric, can use any method for sorting known in the art.This comprise scrub, mercerising is handled, dyeing and dry and so on method.Preferably be higher than any temperature that the end user may apply clothes, carrying out at least a of these method for sorting as under 80 ℃ or the higher temperature.

Embodiment

Embodiment 1: polyester and wool and DOW XLA ^TM The mixing of fiber 40D

On wool top, handle wool fibre to remove wool scale with the chlorine treatment forensic chemistry.The wool fibre of this processing mixes with polyester fiber subsequently to make the yarn of about 65 weight % polyester and 35 weight % wools.Subsequently blended fiber is dyeed.With after the match network spin with 4.3 draft the fiber of dyeing and the DOW XLA of 40 DENIER ^TMFiber (can available from the DowChemical Company) mixes to make elastomeric yarn.(warp thread is not the polyester/wool fiber of the dyeing that as above prepares, not and DOW XLA to use this elastomeric yarn to have warp thread with manufacturing on weft direction ^TMFiber is matched network together and is spun) the bifilar and weft yarn number (Nm) of number (Nm) 52 52 bifilar have 24 warp thread/centimetre and the fabric of 22.5 picks per centimeter.The gained fabric contains about 33 weight % wools, 63% polyester and 4%Dow XLA fiber.The gained fabric has 240.7gm/m ²Weight (as measuring) by ASTM D3776-1996 (2002) (240.7GSM).According to standard method finish fabric and measurement.The fabric of putting in order shows 16% the elongation level of measuring according to IWS TM 179.This fabric is imposed IWS method of testing 31:5cycles of ISO 6330 5A Wash, the wet measurement.Measure this fabric subsequently again.

This fabric shows the broadwise wash shrinkage (method of testing IWS TM 31) less than 1.9 after 5 washings.Because the industrial standard of " Machine Washable " clothing is less than 3%, this fabric easily meets this industrial standard.

(Super 100 Superwash wools are with DOW XLA for embodiment 2-5 wool ^TM Fiber 40D Mix)

Super 100 Superwash wool fibres are to handle to remove the fiber of wool scale with the chlorine treatment forensic chemistry on wool top.With after the match network spins the wool and the 40 DENIER DOW XLA that will handle with 4.3 draft ^TMMixed with fibers is to make elastomeric yarn.(warp thread is 100% wool) uses this yarn to have the bifilar fabric of the bifilar and weft yarn number (Nm) of warp thread number (Nm) 80 76 with manufacturing on weft direction.The gained fabric is about 96% wool and about 4%DOWXLA ^TMElastomer, this can become with specific braided structure.

The a series of different braided structures of preparation as shown in table 1, and according to standard method with textile dyeing and arrangement.Each width of fabric is about 150 centimetres.As in Example 1, according to ISO 63305A washing methods, wet measurement (being IWS TM31) is in the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of washing these fabrics of test after 5 times.Also, scald the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of handling the back test fabric in vapour pressure according to method of testing ISO 3005.According to stretching and the expendable elongation on the IWS TM 179 mensuration broadwises.These samples are summarised in the table 1, and as can be seen from the table, all samples all meets the industrial standard of " Machine Washable ".

Table 1

Embodiment

Weave

Weight

Chi after the washing

Vapour pressure is scalded

Stretch

Can not be extensive

Number		(g/m ²)	Very little stable warp/shute	DIMENSIONAL STABILITY warp/shute after the processing	％	Multiple elongation %
Number		(g/m ²)	Very little stable warp/shute	DIMENSIONAL STABILITY warp/shute after the processing	％	Multiple elongation %	2	2/1 gabardine	290	2.2/-0.9	0.3/0.6	16.5	2.8
3	2/1 serge	265	2.0/-0.02	0.2/0.9	16.5	2.6	2	2/1 gabardine	290	2.2/-0.9	0.3/0.6	16.5	2.8
3	2/1 serge	265	2.0/-0.02	0.2/0.9	16.5	2.6	4	2/2 herringbone	300	1.5/-0.2	0.3/1.1	19.3	3.8
5	2/1 herringbone	265	1.7/0.1	0.3/2.5	17.3	2	4	2/2 herringbone	300	1.5/-0.2	0.3/1.1	19.3	3.8

Claims

1. washable wool goods that contain elastomer, this elastomer contains crosslinked polyolefin polymer, it is characterized in that this based article has the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY in ± 3% after washing and/or vapour pressure are scalded.

2. goods according to claim 1, wherein elastomer contains crosslinked even branched ethylene polymer.

3. goods according to claim 1, wherein these goods do not stand to be higher than 160 ℃ temperature.

4. wool product according to claim 1, it has after washing and/or vapour pressure are scalded ± 1.5% DIMENSIONAL STABILITY.

5. washable wool goods according to claim 1, wherein these goods contain the elastomer of 2-20 weight %.

6. washable wool goods according to claim 1, wherein these goods contain at least 65% wool.

7. washable wool goods according to claim 1, it further comprises additional non-resilient natural or synthetic fiber.

8. a manufacturing contains the method for washable wool elongated article of the dimensionally stable of the fiber of being made by elastomeric material, and described method is characterised in that the temperature in the goods arrangement process is no more than 160 ℃.

9. method according to claim 10 is further characterized in that this method does not comprise the use stenter.

10. method according to claim 10 is further characterized in that the goods arrangement comprises the heat setting step.

11. method according to claim 10 comprises and selects the step of one or more cross-linked polyolefin polymer as elastomeric material.

12. goods according to claim 9, wherein these goods comprise polyester or nylon fiber in addition.

13. goods according to claim 4, wherein the fiber of being made by crosslinked even branched ethylene polymer constitutes 2 weight % to 10 weight % of these goods.

14. goods according to claim 1, wherein these goods contain the fiber of being made by polypropylene.

15. goods according to claim 1, wherein these goods are clothing form.

16. goods according to claim 1, wherein these goods are the lingerie form.

17. goods according to claim 1, the wherein form of fabric of these goods for putting in order.

18. washable wool goods that contain elastomer and at least 65 weight % wools is characterized in that this based article has the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY in ± 3% after washing and/or vapour pressure are scalded.

19. goods according to claim 18, wherein this wool comprises the wool of 70 to 96 weight %.