JP3533279B2 - Processing method of stretch fabric - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for processing a stretch woven fabric, and more particularly to a method for processing a stretch woven fabric capable of obtaining excellent stretchability and appearance quality.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, stretch woven and knitted fabrics include filament-processed yarns of thermoplastic synthetic fibers, blended yarns of natural and synthetic fibers, twisted yarns, yarns obtained by covering other fibers with polyurethane elastic yarns, and wool yarns. Those used are known. Typical stretch composite yarns include yarns obtained by covering polyurethane elastic yarns with polyamide fibers, such as single covering yarns, which are mainly used for knitting such as pantyhose and the like. Not in the form of simple fabrics.

Examples of stretch woven fabrics containing cellulosic fibers include those using composite yarns with polyester fibers as described in JP-A-2-6644. However, although these are stretchable by the polyester fibers, they do not have sufficient stretchability. If a woven fabric using a composite yarn containing a cellulosic fiber is simply finished by a conventional dyeing process, the appearance, texture and stretchability of the woven fabric are inferior, and a cellulosic fiber having practical stretchability and appearance quality is obtained. There was a problem that the contained fabric could not be obtained.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a method for processing a stretchable fabric rich in cellulosic fibers, which has good stretchability, is soft, has little scratches and pits, and has an extremely excellent appearance quality. To do.

[0005]

In order to solve the above problems, the present inventor tried a woven fabric by using a composite yarn composed of a cellulosic fiber and a polyurethane elastic yarn, and conducted a study to find a good stretch. It is important to combine the dyeing process with the continuous alkali treatment process, the relaxation drying process and the kneading fabric relaxation treatment process in order to impart stretchability and to obtain a stretch woven fabric with a soft texture with less scratches and fluffing. The present invention has led to the present invention.

That is, the invention claimed by the present invention is as follows. (1) Treating a woven fabric using a composite yarn composed of a cellulosic fiber and a polyurethane elastic yarn as a warp and / or a weft at least in an alkali continuous treatment step, a relaxation drying treatment step, a dyeing treatment step and a kneading cloth relaxation treatment step. A method for processing a stretch woven fabric characterized by: (2) The method for processing a stretch woven fabric according to (1), wherein the dyeing step is a continuous dyeing step using a reactive dye.

The composite yarn composed of the cellulose fiber and the polyurethane elastic yarn used in the present invention includes natural cellulose fibers such as cotton and hemp, regenerated cellulose fibers such as viscose rayon and copper ammonia rayon, and lyocell by solvent spinning. It refers to a composite of cellulosic fibers such as purified cellulose fibers and polyurethane elastic yarn. The form of the composite yarn may be any form such as core spun yarn, single covering yarn, double covering yarn, ply yarn, plied yarn, etc. It is preferable that it is exposed on the surface. Specifically, the covering rate of the cellulosic fiber is 50% or more, preferably 7%.
It is preferable that the composite is made uniformly so as to be 0% or more. Such a composite yarn has a twist angle of 30 in its manufacturing process.
It is obtained by making it more than once.

The woven fabric used in the present invention is not limited to a woven fabric structure as long as it is a woven fabric in which a composite yarn composed of a cellulosic fiber and a polyurethane elastic yarn is used as at least a warp or a weft. In the present invention, the woven fabric is processed in an alkali continuous treatment step, a relaxation drying treatment step, a dyeing treatment step and a kneading cloth relaxation treatment step,
The combination order of these processing steps is not particularly limited,
Further, processing steps other than these may be combined. For example, when the alkaline continuous treatment step is A, the relaxing drying step is B, the dyeing step is C, and the kneading treatment step is D, a preferable combination mode in the present invention is A → B.
→ C → D, A → D → B → C → B and the like.

In the present invention, the continuous alkali treatment step means a step of sufficiently swelling the fiber with alkali to remove the strain of the cloth itself and to provide a relaxing effect. The preferred continuous alkali treatment in the present invention is 20
g / l to 110 g / l caustic soda 5 to 15 to 50 ° C.
Examples include a treatment of dipping for 2 seconds to 3 minutes. For the alkali treatment at this time, a relaxing type treatment machine such as a Hinecken type treatment machine or a jet dyeing machine to which rubbing is applied may be used. When a fabric tensioning machine such as a mercerizing machine is used, the characteristics of the stretch woven fabric are deteriorated, and therefore it is necessary to carry out a repeating relaxing step as described below after or after the alkali treatment.

In the continuous alkali treatment, if the caustic soda concentration is too low, the swelling state of the fiber is not so large that strain relaxation / relaxation effects are difficult to obtain, and conversely, if the caustic soda concentration is too high, the strength of the entire fabric decreases. It may end up. Further, if the alkali treatment temperature is too low, the strength is largely reduced, and if the temperature is too high, the cellulose may yellow. Further, if the alkali treatment time is too short, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient strain relaxation / relaxation effect because the alkali swelling state of the cloth is small, and if it is too long, the strength of the entire cloth may decrease. Further, in the case of a woven fabric using a composite yarn such as a short fiber or a core spun yarn using a short fiber, fluff can be efficiently removed by performing the above-mentioned alkali continuous treatment.

In the present invention, the relaxing drying treatment step means that the cloth is dried under low tension until the moisture content of the cloth reaches 15 to 25%. Specifically, it is a net conveyor hot air dryer or Relaxed drying using an airflow dryer such as an air tumbler. Under low tension,
It means a state in which tension is not applied to the fabric as much as possible. If the moisture content of the fabric is dried below 15%, new distortion is likely to occur, and if the moisture content of the fabric exceeds 25%, the fabric is still wet.

In the present invention, the dyeing treatment step means a step of dyeing a cloth with an aqueous dye solution containing a dye for cellulosic fibers. As the cellulosic fiber dye, a direct dye and a reactive dye are preferable. As a dyeing method, a rope dyeing or a Jigger dyeing machine using a jet dyeing machine, a Wins dyeing machine, an airflow dyeing machine, a pad batch dyeing, a pad roll dyeing, a pad steam dyeing, or a spread dyeing of a pad thermosol dyeing, etc. In either case, in the case of spread-like dyeing, it is a preferred embodiment to combine a relaxing drying step or a kneading cloth relaxing step after dyeing.

In the present invention, the kneading cloth relaxing treatment step is a step of rubbing the cloth to remove the distortion of the cloth, thereby giving a relaxing effect and making the cloth softer. Specifically, for example, 50
Examples of the treatment include an airflow dryer, a drum type tumbler dryer, a jet dyeing machine, and an airflow dyeing machine, which are provided with a water content of not less than%. Further, by using a jet dyeing machine or the like in the alkali continuous treatment step described above, both the alkali continuous treatment and the kneading cloth relaxing treatment can be simultaneously performed. Also,
The relaxing effect can be further enhanced by combining with the above-mentioned relaxing drying treatment step.

In the present invention, the woven fabric using the composite yarn composed of the cellulosic fiber and the polyurethane elastic yarn has the above-mentioned alkali continuous treatment step, relax drying treatment step,
It is processed in the dyeing treatment step and the kneading cloth relaxation treatment step, which makes it possible to obtain a cellulose fiber-rich stretch woven fabric having an excellent stretchability and appearance quality which have not been obtained in the past.

[0015]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Example 1 75d (45 filaments) of copper ammonium rayon yarn (Bemberg, manufactured by Asahi Kasei) was used as warp, and 40d of polyurethane elastic yarn (Leica, manufactured by Asahi Kasei).
Is covered with 30/1 cotton count of copper ammonium rayon yarn (draft rate 3.2 times, twist number 23.2 T / inc)
h) Threads (cellulosic fiber covering rate 85%)
Weaving machine using weft as the weft (warp density 125 threads / in
ch, weft density 65 yarns / inch) is processed according to the process of FIG. 1, warp density 140 yarns / inch, weft yarn density 7
2 / inch stretch fabric was finished.

Example 2 The polyurethane elastic yarn used in Example 1 was covered with copper ammonium rayon yarn for the warp and weft of a woven fabric, and the weaving of the woven fabric (warp density of 68 / inch, weft density of 60 / inch) is processed in the same manner as in Example 1,
Warp density 103 threads / inch, weft density 86 threads / in
Finished in ch stretch fabric. Example 3 The textile fabric used in Example 2 was processed in the process of FIG.
Warp density 103 threads / inch, weft density 89 threads / inc
Finished as h stretch fabric.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 In Example 1, the warp density was 135 yarns / inch, the weft yarn density was 66 yarns / i without alkali treatment after burning.
Finished into nch stretch fabric. Comparative Example 2 In Example 2, the warp density was 103 yarns / inch and the weft yarn density was 86 yarns / i without alkali treatment after burning.
Finished into nch stretch fabric. Comparative Example 3 In Example 2, the liquid flow relaxation and the tumbler treatment were not performed, and the tumbler drying was carried out by pin tenter drying to obtain a warp density of 92 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 78 yarns / in.
Finished in ch stretch fabric.

<Test Example> Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 1
The stretchability, washing shrinkage, and appearance of each stretch woven fabric obtained in Example 3 were evaluated by the following methods, and the results are shown in Table 1. (1) Elasticity: According to JIS-L-1096, the elongation rate was measured by the B method, and the elongation recovery rate and the residual strain rate were measured by the B-1 method. The obtained values are displayed as the warp direction / the weft direction. In the present invention, both the warp and the weft pass the elongation rate of 25% or more, the elongation recovery rate of 60% or more (after 1 hour) and the residual strain rate of 20% or less (after 1 hour). And (2) Washing shrinkage ratio: Measured according to the household washing machine method (G method) of JIS-L-1042, and expressed as warp shrinkage ratio (%) / weft shrinkage ratio (%). In the present invention, 3% or less was passed in both history. (3) Appearance: Visually observed and marked with no fluffs, threads or attrition, ◎, partially visible, ○, slightly visible overall, △, violently visible × ◎ and ○ were passed. (4) Texture: A soft one was evaluated as O and a hard one was evaluated as X according to the feel of the hand.

[0019]

[Table 1]

From the results shown in Table 1, the stretch fabric processed by the processing method of the present invention has excellent stretchability,
Further, it is clear that not only the washing shrinkage rate but also the appearance and texture are excellent.

[0021]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the method for processing a stretch woven fabric of the present invention, since the processing is carried out in the alkali continuous treatment step, the relaxation drying step, the dyeing step and the kneading cloth relaxation treatment step, a texture which has not been obtained in the past can be obtained. It is possible to obtain a cellulosic fiber-rich stretch fabric having excellent stretchability and appearance quality.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a processing step diagram showing an embodiment of a processing method of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a processing step diagram showing another embodiment of the processing method of the present invention.

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. A woven fabric in which a composite yarn composed of a cellulosic fiber and a polyurethane elastic yarn is used as a warp and / or a weft at least in an alkali continuous treatment step, a relaxation drying treatment step, a dyeing treatment step and a kneading cloth relaxation treatment step. A method for processing a stretch woven fabric, comprising: 2. The method for processing a stretch woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing process is a continuous dyeing process using a reactive dye.