CN111183249A - Lyocell filament jean - Google Patents

Lyocell filament jean Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111183249A
CN111183249A CN201880064912.1A CN201880064912A CN111183249A CN 111183249 A CN111183249 A CN 111183249A CN 201880064912 A CN201880064912 A CN 201880064912A CN 111183249 A CN111183249 A CN 111183249A
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China
Prior art keywords
denim
lyocell
yarn
warp
garment
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CN201880064912.1A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
S.卡尔斯
M.诺伊恩托伊费尔
D.艾兴格
C.施伦普夫
M.阿布-鲁斯
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Lenzing AG
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Lenzing AG
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F2/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of cellulose or cellulose derivatives; Manufacture thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D03D1/0017—Woven household fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/20—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which contain halogen
    • D06L4/22—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which contain halogen using inorganic agents
    • D06L4/24—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which contain halogen using inorganic agents using chlorites or chlorine dioxide
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a denim fabric for a garment (1). The fabric is made of weft yarns (4) and warp yarns (6). At least one of the warp and weft yarns comprises or consists of lyocell filaments (8). The resulting material combines high abrasion and tear mechanical strength with excellent softness, smoothness and gloss. Furthermore, the denim according to the invention is bleachable. In addition to the existing cotton denim and denim with silk component, the denim according to the invention represents a new type of denim.

Description

Lyocell filament jean
The invention relates to a denim fabric.
Denim is a fabric that is typically woven from cotton as a warp-faced textile with a twill pattern. One very common denim fabric is indigo dyed denim, wherein only the warp yarns are dyed. The weft yarn remains white. However, the core of the warp yarn remains undyed, which leads to the characteristic fading characteristics of denim. Due to the warp-faced weaving, the denim is colored (usually indigo) on the outside and white (uncolored) on the inside.
Although cotton is a highly resistant fiber and therefore capable of undergoing even aggressive finishes, its mechanical properties and its tactile quality are not ideal, thereby giving denim only a small range of properties.
Therefore, attempts have been made in the past to improve the quality of denim by at least partially replacing the cotton with filaments and/or staple fibres and filaments. One such example is the addition of elastane fibers to increase elasticity. Up to 3% of elastic fibers may be added in general; more elastic fibers are detrimental to life.
Artificial continuous filament yarns are widely used in the textile industry to produce fabrics with distinctive characteristics compared to fabrics produced from yarns made from staple fibres. A continuous filament yarn is a yarn in which all the fibers are continuous over any length of the yarn. Continuous filament yarns will typically consist of 20 to 200 or more individual fibers, all of which are parallel to each other and to the axis of the yarn as produced. The yarn is produced by extruding a solution or melt of the polymer or polymer derivative and then winding the produced yarn onto a bobbin or a wire frame, or forming a cake by centrifugal winding.
Synthetic polymeric continuous filament yarns are common. For example, nylon, polyester, and polypropylene continuous filament yarns are used in a variety of fabrics. They are produced by melt spinning a molten polymer through a spinneret having a number of holes corresponding to the number of fibers desired in the yarn produced. After the molten polymer begins to solidify, the yarn may be drawn to orient the polymer molecules and improve the properties of the yarn.
Continuous filament yarns can also be spun from cellulose derivatives such as cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate by dry spinning. The polymer is dissolved in a suitable solvent and then extruded through a spinneret. The solvent evaporates rapidly after extrusion, resulting in the precipitation of the polymer in the form of a yarn. The newly produced yarn may be drawn to orient the polymer molecules.
The continuous filament yarn can be further produced from cellulose using the viscose process. Cellulose is converted to cellulose xanthate by reaction with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, which is then dissolved in sodium hydroxide solution. The cellulose solution, commonly referred to as viscose, is extruded through a spinneret into an acid bath. Neutralization of sodium hydroxide results in precipitation of cellulose. At the same time, the cellulose xanthate is converted back to cellulose by reaction with an acid. The newly formed fibers are drawn to orient the cellulose molecules, washed to remove the reactants from the fibers, and then dried and wound onto bobbins. In an early version of this process, the wet yarn was collected into a cake using a centrifugal winder-TophamBox. The yarn cake was then dried in an oven and then wound onto bobbins.
Continuous filament cellulose yarns are also produced using the cupro process. The cellulose was dissolved in a copper ammonium hydroxide solution. The resulting solution was extruded into a water bath where the copper ammonia hydroxide was diluted and the cellulose precipitated. The resulting yarn was washed, dried and wound onto a bobbin.
Cellulosic continuous filament yarns produced by the viscose or cuprammonium process can be woven into fabrics. The produced fabrics are used in a variety of applications, including lady clothing and liners for men's clothing.
Fabrics made from continuous filament cellulose yarns perform well in moisture management to improve wearer comfort. They do not generate static electricity as readily as fabrics made using continuous filament synthetic yarns.
Fabrics made from currently available continuous filament cellulose yarns typically have poor physical properties. Dry strength and tear strength are poor compared to fabrics made from synthetic polymers such as polyester. Wet strength is much lower than dry strength due to the interaction between cellulose and water. The wear resistance is low. The interaction with water also softens the cellulose, resulting in instability of fabrics made from the yarn when wet. This is particularly problematic when washing these materials in a domestic washing machine.
Because of these deficiencies, products originally made using continuous filament cellulose yarns are now predominantly made from synthetic polymer continuous filament yarns, such as polyester and nylon.
However, synthetic yarns have problems. The fabrics made using them do not have the moisture handling capacity of fabrics made from cellulose yarns. The synthetic fabric generates static electricity. Some have found that fabrics made with synthetic yarns are much less comfortable to wear than silk. Furthermore, fabrics made from synthetic yarns have poor wash durability and require dry cleaning to avoid excessive shrinkage.
With regard to the denim fabrics available, there is therefore a need to create a washable and soft denim fabric with high moisture absorption, which can be finished with a variety of even aggressive agents.
This object is solved by a denim fabric made of weft and warp yarns, wherein at least one of the weft and warp yarns comprises or consists of lyocell (lyocell) filaments.
The lyocell filament denim is subjected to an aggressive finish. Furthermore, denim comprising or consisting of lyocell filament yarns is even softer and smoother than denim with a silk component. Thus, the lyocell filament denim of the present invention creates a new class of fabrics with a completely new set of characteristics. This is all the more surprising since it would be expected from the properties of cotton yarn that denim comprising or consisting of lyocell staple fibres would replace cotton denim, if any.
Lyocell is a generic name given to a class of cellulose rayon fibers produced by the direct dissolution method. The lyocell process is described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,246,221 and WO 93/19230.
The pulp slurry is formed from a solution of amine oxide in water. Water is then evaporated from the slurry in a thin film evaporator vessel. When the water content falls below a certain level, the cellulose forms a solution in the amine oxide. The resulting viscous liquid cures to a glassy solid at temperatures below about 70 ℃. If maintained above this temperature, it may be pumped through a spinneret to form filaments, which are then immediately immersed in water, where dilution of the amine oxide causes cellulose to precipitate.
The spinneret used to extrude the amine oxide cellulose solution has a number of holes corresponding to the number of filaments required in the continuous filament yarn. After extrusion, the newly formed yarn was washed with counter-current water to remove the amine oxide. The washing may be performed on a self-advancing wire frame, onto which water is introduced to wash the fibers. A finish may be applied to aid in further processing and drying of the yarn. The washed and dried yarn was wound onto a bobbin.
In the lyocell process, cellulose in the form of wood pulp is the only raw material used. The wood pulp used is from a sustainable forest. The filaments produced were 100% cellulose and were the only product from the process. The amine oxide solvent is recovered from the wash water and reused for the production of other filaments. The recovery rate can reach 99.7%. As a result, the environmental impact of the lyocell process is very low. The process releases little gaseous or liquid emissions and produces filaments free of solvent.
In contrast, the viscose process uses carbon disulfide, sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid and zinc sulfate. Unless otherwise noted, hydrogen sulfide and carbon disulfide can be released from the process. Sodium sulfate is produced as a by-product of the process.
The invention can be further improved by the following additional features, which can be combined independently of one another and each exhibit different technical effects.
The continuous filament lyocell yarn used to produce the product of the present invention may be in the untwisted state as produced, or may be twisted by rewinding. It may be a doubled yarn. The yarns may be combined with another continuous filament yarn or staple fiber yarn by twisting them together or by interlacing using, for example, an air jet.
The lyocell denim according to the invention preferably comprises at least 10% lyocell filaments in at least one of the weft and warp yarns. Preferably, the minimum total content of lyocell filaments in the lyocell denim is higher than 10%. In view of the soft structure of the yarn comprising or consisting of lyocell filaments, a content of more than 10% can significantly improve the hand of the fabric. Thus, a total content of at least 10% lyocell has produced a tactile effect, irrespective of whether the lyocell filaments are used for warp or weft yarns. Furthermore, blends of at least 10% lyocell filaments with other synthetic or cellulosic filaments, for example with viscose or cuprammonium filaments, or with viscose or cuprammonium staple fibres, or wool and cotton, improve the strength of the yarn. Finally, a blend of at least 10% lyocell filaments and synthetic fibers significantly improves the air permeability and moisture management of the fabric.
The dyeing and finishing process of the denim method is very demanding because it combines strong chemical impact and strong mechanical treatment of the fabric. Thus, viscose and silk fibers cannot be used in these processes because they cannot be subjected to this procedure. This is why, in another embodiment, the viscose and/or cuprammonium staple fibers and filaments can only be used in a very small part in combination with or even need to be replaced by lyocell filaments.
According to another preferred embodiment, the denim is bleached. Compared to, for example, denim with silk content, lyocell filaments can be treated with aggressive finishes (e.g. chlorine bleach). Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that such aggressive finishes, in particular chlorine bleaches, soften yarns comprising or consisting of lyocell filaments, thus actually improving the softness and smoothness of lyocell denim.
The lyocell denim according to the invention has superior softness. An indirect measure of softness is the TS7 value determined by the TSA tissue softness analyzer. According to one embodiment, the denim according to the invention has a TS7 value not greater than 8 in the set state, i.e. before garment washing. Furthermore, the denim of the invention after washing of the garments and even after bleaching can obtain TS7 values not exceeding 6.
The TSA also produces another parameter, TS750 value, which correlates to smoothness. Preferably, the denim according to the invention in the set state has a TS750 value not greater than 120. A TS750 value of no greater than 120 may also be maintained after garment washing and/or bleaching.
The denim according to the invention having the smoothness and/or softness described above has a higher smoothness and/or softness than cotton denim and even a better softness and/or smoothness than the denim part with the filament yarns.
Preferably, the denim fabric also has a high mechanical elasticity. For example, in the fastened state, i.e., before garment washing, denim may score at least 15,000 cycles to hole formation in the martindale abrasion test. In another embodiment, the denim may be formed in 8,000 cycles after the garment is washed and/or after bleaching. This shows that the denim according to the invention can be used for textiles which are subject to strong wear.
In another embodiment, the outer surface of the denim, i.e. the warp face of the denim, has a pilling rating no worse than 5 in the set state, i.e. before garment washing, and/or has a pilling rating no worse than 5 after garment washing, and has a pilling rating no worse than 5 after bleaching.
In the attached state (conditioned, 20/65), in at least one (warp and/or weft) direction in which the lyocell filament yarns are used, the yarn strength of the denim is preferably at least 20cN/tex, more preferably at least 25cN/tex and/or at least 10cN/tex, preferably at least 20cN/tex, in the wet state. After washing of the garment, the yarn strength in at least one (warp and/or weft) direction in which the lyocell filament yarns are used is preferably at least 4.5cN/tex, more preferably at least 5cN/tex in the conditioned state 20/65, and preferably at least 3, preferably at least 7cN/tex in the wet state. After bleaching, the yarn strength in at least one direction (of warp and/or weft) in which the lyocell filament yarns are used is at least 2cN/tex, preferably at least 3cN/tex in the conditioned state 20/65, and preferably at least 2cN/tex, more preferably at least 5cN/tex in the wet state.
The yarn elongation of the weft and/or warp yarns comprising or consisting of lyocell filaments may be at least 4% after fixation, and/or at least 2% after garment washing, and/or at least 1% after bleaching.
The hairiness of the denim according to the invention can have a rating no worse than 4 after washing of the garment and a rating no worse than 3 on the warp side, i.e. the outer surface of the denim, after bleaching.
The fiber splices of the denim according to the invention may have a rating of not less than 4 before and/or after fixation, and/or a rating of not less than 4.5 after garment washing, and/or a rating of not less than 4.5 after bleaching.
All the above parameters prove that the denim according to the invention is acceptable as a fabric suitable for an extremely wide range of denim applications. The combination of softness, smoothness and gloss, on the one hand, and the set of mechanical properties such as abrasion resistance and yarn strength, on the other hand, provides a unique combination for denim.
The specific hand, determined by the textile hand tester in the direction of the warp and/or weft containing or consisting of lyocell filaments, is at least 4mN m.m after washing the clothing2·g-1And/or after bleaching at least 3 mN.m2·g-1. These values indicate the high smoothness and flexibility of the denim of the invention.
The gloss of the warp and/or weft yarns comprising and preferably consisting of lyocell filaments may be at least 20% reflective. This allows to produce denim with a high gloss.
The invention also relates to a garment, in particular a lady garment and/or a men's garment, such as a jacket, a coat, a blouse, a dress and trousers, wherein lyocell denim as described above is used.
Furthermore, the invention relates to the use of a yarn comprising or consisting of lyocell filaments in a denim fabric.
The fabric moisture regain measured according to astm d 190g is an indicator of comfort level. Mulberry silk has a moisture regain of 11% and provides one of the best comfort levels in all fabrics in terms of moisture regain. The lyocell filament yarn and/or denim according to the invention preferably has a moisture regain of at least 13%, which results in a similar or even better comfort as mulberry silk.
The lyocell filament denim of the present invention may be any form, weave or finish suitable for production from continuous filament yarn and resulting in a denim comparable to cotton. The lyocell filament denim may be constructed as plain weave, twill, satin, weft-faced satin, basket, rib and fancy weave fabrics. The fabric may be woven using any loom suitable for weaving continuous filament yarns, including a shuttle loom, a rapier loom, a gripper loom, or a ribbon loom.
Lyocell denim fabrics produced using continuous filament lyocell yarns can have aesthetics and appearance similar to those produced from continuous filament viscose yarns, but with significantly better physical properties. The higher strength and modulus of the yarn results in improved fabric breaking strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and stability. The properties of wet fabrics are also superior.
Fig. 1 schematically shows a garment 1, which is at least partly made of lyocell denim 2. The garment 1 is only schematically shown as a pair of trousers, but is not limited thereto. The garment 1 may also be a dress, suit, costume, jacket, shirt or blouse or parts of and/or on such garments.
The lyocell denim 2 comprises weft yarns 4 and warp yarns 6 which may be twisted. At least one of the weft yarns 4 and the warp yarns 6 comprises or consists of lyocell filaments.
An example of a warp and/or weft yarn 6, 4 with at least one lyocell filament 8 is shown in fig. 2. Fig. 3 shows a twisted warp and/or weft triple 4, 6 with at least one lyocell filament. At least one of the filaments 8 is a lyocell filament. The twisted filaments may have any number of filaments and any twist direction. Preferably, at least 50% of the yarns 4, 6 consist of lyocell filaments 8.
In order to investigate the superior quality of lyocell filament denim according to the present invention over silk, samples were prepared and compared with comparative examples made of denim consisting of or containing cotton. For denim, the base is the benchmark, with which any denim using yarns from rayon or filaments must compete. The lyocell filament denim samples of the present invention were compared to the comparative examples using the following tests:
testing
Martindale abrasion resistance test according to DIN EN ISO 12947-2;
-the martindale pilling test according to DIN EN ISO 12945-2;
-washing shrinkage according to DIN EN ISO 5077; the sum of the absolute values of the shrinkage in the two sample directions was taken
The combined shrinkage is calculated;
rubfastness according to ISO 105X 12;
-AATCC durable press rating according to DIN EN ISO 15487;
-gas permeability according to DIN EN ISO 9237;
-colour fastness to DIN EN 20105-a 02;
-the yarn strength of the warp and weft yarns according to DIN EN ISO 2062,
-moisture regain according to ASTM D1909,
-measuring the gloss of the yarn at an angle of 45 ℃ according to EN 14086-01/2003,
gloss of the fabric is measured according to TAPPI T480 at an angle of 75 °.
It is important for the end consumer how the fabric changes appearance after washing. To evaluate this, the surface appearance hairiness, pilling and fiber splices were determined according to the following tests:
the test was performed by 3 people in a dark room containing Variolux's color assessment cabinet "Multi light data color" and daylight lamp D65. The lamp is installed at the upper side of the cabinet.
To test the hairiness, the tester keeps the test sample tilted and grades the hairiness to the best (grade 5, no hairiness) and worst (grade 1, up to 2mm long protruding fibers).
The number of fuzz-pilling (neps on the fabric surface) was evaluated using a reference sample (knit K3 or K2, or woven W3 or W2) similar to the EMPA Standard SN 198525 to DIN EN ISO 12945-2. The reference samples were graded from 1 to 5 and compared to the test samples. Grade 5 corresponds to denim without pilling. The more fuzz and pilling on the surface of the test sample, the worse the grade obtained. The worst rating is 1.
If the fibrils are transferred to the surface by scouring, fiber splices will result. If the scoured sample is analyzed under a microscope, the fibrils have protruding brush-like ends. For measuring the fibre splices, a microscope SM with X10 eyepiece from UHL technische mikroskope was used. For smooth surfaces showing no fibrils, a rating of 5 is given. A rating of 1 is given if there is a dense fur with long and curved fiber ends partially detached from the surface.
In all three tests, a medium rating is possible.
If the samples are subjected to washing, the washing is carried out according to DIN EN ISO 6330. The test to evaluate the parameters in the dry state was performed in the conditioning state 65/20. All standards mentioned in this application are incorporated by reference in their entirety.
Samples were prepared as follows. Accordingly, the weight was determined according to DIN EN 12127. The count of the threads in the weft and in the warp is carried out in accordance with DIN 53820-3.
A summary of the materials and properties of samples 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 (relating to lyocell denim) and comparative samples 4 and 7 (relating to reference cotton) relative to their test samples 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 are given in table 1.
Samples 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6, and comparative samples 4 and 7
Sample 1 was denim 1857-A, wherein the warp yarns consisted of bright untwisted yarns made from lyocell filaments having a dtex 500f 300. The weft yarn consists of cotton yarn with a lycra T400 core. This resulted in a fabric having 70% lyocell yarn, 20% cotton, 8% elastic polyester fiber and 2% elastic fiber. The weight of the jean is 343 g.m-2。
Sample 2 is a denim 978-150-814 containing 33% lyocell filaments and 67% cotton. The weight of the glass is 143 g.m-2. The warp yarns are made of cotton ring spun yarn Z. The weft yarn was made of dtex 150f90 yarn.
Sample 3 is denim 1857-8, where the warp consists of a bright untwisted yarn of 100% lyocell filaments, the yarn having a linear mass density of dtex 500f 300. The weft yarn was a 100% polyester yarn with an ELAS core of lycra T400. This resulted in a denim fabric with 356g m-2And 70% lyocell, 28% polyester and 2% spandex.
Sample 6 is denim 1857-CNF comprising 70% lyocell, 28% cotton and 2% elastane. The warp yarns consisted of 556dtex lyocell filament yarn. The weft yarns are made of a matte cotton ring spun yarn having an elastomeric fiber core.
Sample 5 is 45% lyocell and 55% cotton denim 978-100-814. The warp yarns consisted of cotton ring spun yarn Z and the weft yarns consisted of lyocell yarn dtex 100f 60. The weight of the material is 128 g.m-2。
Comparative sample 4 is denim 840-814 made of 59% cotton and 41% silk, wherein the warp yarns are made of cotton and the weft yarns are made of silk. This results in denim with high softness and smoothness and gloss. Weight 171 g.m-2。
Comparative sample 7 is a denim 435-4047 composed of 98% cotton and 2% elastic fiber. The warp yarns are made of cotton ring spun yarns and the weft yarns are made of cotton ring spun yarns having a core of matt elastomeric fibers.
Samples 1 to 3 and 6 were benchmarked relative to comparative sample 7 in terms of washfastness, resistance to finishes, smoothness, softness and gloss.
Samples 2 and 5 were referenced to comparative sample 4 to compare lyocell warp denim and cotton warp denim, since both had the same weft material.
The samples and comparative samples were subjected to the following finishing steps. After each finishing step, the samples and comparative examples were tested.
Fixation
First, samples 1, 3 and 4 and comparative sample 7 were fixed at 195 ℃ for 45 seconds and then subjected to the test. The results of these tests are summarized in table 2.
Clothes washing
Samples 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and comparative samples 4 and 7 were garment washed as follows.
Fibrillation was carried out with 2.5kg of fabric and 150I liquid at a liquor ratio of 1: 60 at 22rpm for 20 minutes at 60 ℃ with maximum heating rates used in 2g/L Persoftal L, 2g/L soda and 0.3g/L concentrated Lavasperse KDS.
The liquid was then cooled to 40 ℃ and cold rinsed with 300I, then warm rinsed with 150I at 50 ℃ for 5 minutes, with heating beginning at the beginning of rinsing, and then cold rinsed again with 300I.
After rinsing, an enzymatic wash was again carried out with 2.5kg of fabric and 150I liquor at a liquor ratio of 1: 60 at 22 rpm. The liquid contained 2g/L Persoftal L, 3g/L Peristal E and 0.3g/L concentrated Lavasperse KDS. The pH value is controlled between pH 4.5-5. After heating to 55 ℃ at the maximum heating rate, the pH was checked. At pH 5.5, 2g/l Perizym 2000 was added, followed by enzyme, and the material was then treated at 55 ℃ for 55 minutes. The material was then heated to 85 ℃ and treated at 85 ℃ for 15 minutes.
The liquid was then drained and the material was rinsed as follows: first, cold rinse with 300I, then warm rinse with 150I, with heating starting from the fill of the second rinse step. Warm rinsing was continued at 50 ℃ for 5 minutes. Finally, cold flushing was performed with 300I.
After heating at maximum rate, regeneration was carried out at 15 minutes and 40 ℃ using 2% Tubingal RGH, 1% Tubingal RWM, 3g/l Peristal E in a liquor ratio of 1: 60 as above.
The liquid was then drained and the material was drum dried at 80 ℃ for 50 minutes and then allowed to cool for 20 minutes.
Thereafter, the samples and comparative examples were tested as described above. The results are summarized in table 3.
Strong bleaching
For the final series of tests, bleaching of samples 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and comparative samples 4 and 7 was performed as follows:
pre-scouring was performed with 2.5kg of fabric and 150I liquor at a liquor ratio of 1: 60. For the prewashing, the Lava SperseKDS was concentrated using 2g/L Persoftal L, 0.5g/L NaOH 100% (1g/L NaOH 50%) and 0.2 g/L. Pre-scouring was performed at 60 ℃ for 20 minutes (maximum heating rate).
After this time, it was cooled to 40 ℃ and then cold-rinsed with 300I.
The cold bleaching was again carried out with 2.5kg of fabric and 150I of a liquor containing 2g/l soda and 0.4g/l concentrated Lava Sperse KDS at a liquor ratio of 1: 60 and 15rpm for 30 minutes. The pH was checked and maintained at pH 10. As bleaching agent, 3g/l of active chlorine (20ml/l of bleaching lye solution (150g/l)) was used.
The liquid was then drained and the material was cold rinsed with 300I and warm rinsed with 150I as above.
Dechlorination was carried out at 40 ℃ for 30 minutes with 2ml/l 50% hydrogen peroxide.
Then cold-rinsed with 300I, warm-rinsed with 150I at 50 ℃ for 5 minutes (heating from rinsing), and cold-rinsed with 300I.
Then, enzyme washing, followed by rinsing and regeneration and drum drying was performed as follows:
after rinsing, an enzymatic wash was again carried out with 2.5kg of fabric and 150I liquor at a liquor ratio of 1: 60 at 22 rpm. The liquid contained 2g/L Persoftal L, 3g/L Peristal E and 0.3g/L concentrated Lavasperse KDS. The pH is maintained between pH 4.5 and pH 5. After heating to 55 ℃ at the maximum heating rate, the pH was checked. The material was then treated at 55 ℃ for 55 minutes before the enzyme was added. The material was then heated to 85 ℃ and treated at 85 ℃ for 15 minutes.
The liquid was then drained and the material was rinsed as follows: first, cold rinse with 300I, then warm rinse with 150I, with heating starting from the fill of the second rinse step. The warm water rinse was continued at 50 ℃ for 5 minutes. Finally, cold flushing was performed with 300I.
After heating at maximum rate, regeneration was carried out at 15 minutes and 40 ℃ using 2% Tubingal RGH, 1% Tubingal RWM, 3g/l Peristal E in a liquor ratio of 1: 60 as above.
Then, the samples and comparative examples were tested as above. The results of these tests are summarized in table 4.
Results
The following are evident from tables 1 to 4: comparing samples 2 and 5 with comparative sample 4, the wet and dry tenacity of lyocell filaments according to the present invention are significantly higher than the tenacity of the silk denim of comparative sample 4. Furthermore, both dry and wet yarn strength and yarn elongation were better for all lyocell filament denim compared to the non-lyocell cotton denim exemplified in comparative samples 4 and 7.
Furthermore, it has been demonstrated that lyocell filament denim (like cotton) is even subjected to aggressive finishes, such as chlorine bleach which destroys the filaments.
With respect to pilling, hairiness and fiber splicing, lyocell filament denim is at least comparable (if not better a grade) to cotton denim before and after washing and after bleaching of the garment. Furthermore, lyocell filaments do not undergo fibrillation of the cotton after washing.
Although cotton still has high yarn strength before and after washing of the garment and after bleaching, the yarn strength of the lyocell filament denim of the present invention is still very good. In particular, the yarn strength of lyocell filament denim is matched to the gloss, softness and smoothness, which are superior to cotton denim and can only be achieved with denim containing filaments. However, the latter cannot be bleached.
This is evident from the following tests, in which softness and smoothness were analyzed using a TSA tissue software Analyzer (TSA test), a hand-feel tester and a hand panel.
TSA test
The TSA test was performed to verify that the tactile quality of the lyocell filament denim of samples 1 to 5 is at least equal to that of the silk denim of comparative sample 4 (if not better).
The two main tactile qualities improved by using filaments in denim are softness and smoothness. To objectively evaluate these properties, TSA tests were performed.
TSA testing is described in Schlo β er et al, "Griffbergeulteulng von textile miterlschallanalyse", Meilland textile, 1/2102, pages 43-45, in emtec publications, Gr ü ner, "A new and objective measuring technique to the software application" (2012), in TSA operating instructions and in the avr-Allgemeerner Vliestoff report 5/2015, "New und Objjektive textile Soft-analyser", pages 99-101, originally developed for measuring Softness and smoothness of thin nonwovens (tissue) and nonwovens using acoustic spectroscopy, which is now suitable for use in evaluating woven and smooth fabrics as well.
TSA testing was performed using a TSA Tissue software Analyzer device from Leibtin emtec electronics GmbH, Germany, and the software ESM shipped with the TSA. The TSA measures the acoustic spectrum that results from pressing a star-shaped object against the sample web with a defined force and rotating it. For testing, the fabric was clamped around its periphery and was not otherwise supported, particularly opposite the rotating body. In the TSA test performed here, the software and its evaluation algorithm were not used. Instead, the sound pressure measured by TSA at 7kHz (TS7) was taken as an objective indirect measure of softness, and the sound pressure at 750Hz (TS750) in the sound spectrum measured by TSA was taken as an objective indirect measure of smoothness. TSA automatically gives sound pressure as dB.V2Rms, where V is the rotational speed of the rotating body. The direct use of these values avoids any problems due to the EMS algorithm developed for thin nonwovens rather than woven fabrics. For each sample, a total of four were usedThe probes were subjected to TSA testing.
For testing, a fabric sample of 11cm diameter was clamped as required by the TSA equipment and tested without stretching.
A lower TS7 value indicates a higher softness, and a lower TS750 value indicates a higher smoothness value.
Textile hand tester test
Hand feel tester testing was performed using the hand feel tester testing equipment of Thwing-Albert instruments, west berlin, new jersey, usa. Sample size was 10cm x10 cm. A1/4 inch slot was used for 1,000g of rod and stainless steel surface. The test was performed on samples at conditioning 65/20.
In the TSA and hand-feel tester tests, only the right outer side of the denim is considered. The results are summarized in table 5.
As a result, the textile hand-feel determinator produces two force measurements, which are assigned to two orthogonal directions: a machine direction MD corresponding to the warp direction in the selected arrangement and a cross direction CD corresponding to the weft direction in the selected arrangement. These forces are related to the stiffness and smoothness of the measured surface. The force is normalized by the volume weight of the test specimen to give mN · m2·g-1The specific hand of the meter.
As can be seen from table 5, the cotton denim of comparative sample 7 is inferior to samples 1, 3 and 6 in terms of smoothness. Although these lyocell filament denim fabrics were stiffer than the cotton denim fabric of comparative sample 7 before garment washing, they were softer than comparative sample 7 after garment washing.
The silk denim of comparative sample 4 is not as smooth as samples 2 and 5, and in samples 2 and 5 lyocell non-endless filaments are used in the weft instead of silk. Furthermore, the lyocell filament denim was softer than the silk denim of comparative sample 4 before finishing. After finishing, the softness of samples 2 and 5 corresponds to the softness of comparative sample 4.
It can therefore be concluded from TSA and fabric hand tester tests that the lyocell filament denim according to the invention does combine superior softness and smoothness and ability to be bleached. In addition, the lyocell filament denim has high tenacity. This combination creates a new class of denim fabrics.
Handfeel group
To validate the results from TSA and fabric hand tester tests, a hand panel was used. The panel consisted of ten independent textile experts. The task of the panel was to objectively evaluate the feel of the lyocell filament denim according to the present invention compared to the comparative examples.
To obtain reproducible results independent of panelists, the hand panel was operated as follows:
all samples to be tested by the hand panel were provided in the form of 17cm x 17cm and adhered to the cardboard using a double-sided adhesive at about 2cm from the upper edge boundary. The fabric sample was adhered to the cardboard with the right warp-facing side facing forward. It is oriented so that the weft direction is horizontal and the warp direction is vertical.
To evaluate hand feel, a semantic grid is defined by providing pairs of contrasting descriptive adjectives that describe hand feel. The term corresponding to a contrasted pair of desired qualities is considered "optimal". Thus, for fabrics where smoothness is the desired quality, a higher rating will be given compared to the relative quality-roughness. The ratings range from 1 (worst) to 10 (best).
Furthermore, it is specified how the evaluation should be made, for example by specifying the movement of the hand on the fabric to evaluate the smoothness.
A reference sample fabric of the same construction type (woven) with construction parameters as close as possible and at the same time with a significant hand difference was predefined for each word pair. For example, fabrics considered to have a reference roughness and fabrics considered to have a reference smoothness are provided to the hand panel.
The respective reference fabric grades are fixed at 2 and 8, respectively. Thus, a reference fabric with a word pair of poor quality is defined as level 2, and a reference fabric with a word pair of better quality is defined as level 8. Assigning grades 2 and 8, respectively, allows for scaling up the grade during testing if a material of better or worse quality than the two reference materials is encountered. Thus, in the roughness-smoothness grade, the reference material for roughness is defined to have a grade of 2, and the reference material for smoothness is defined to have a grade of 8. All other materials subsequently tested must be graded by the hand panel against the reference material.
To test the denim sample, the following semantic mesh was used:
-for evaluating the feel: cotton (grade 2) and silk (grade 8);
-for evaluating the consistency (consistency): loose (level 2) and compact (level 8);
-for assessing the wearing sensation: stiffness (grade 2) and flexibility (grade 8);
-for evaluating a surface: coarse (grade 2); and smooth (grade 8).
As a reference material for grade 2, comparative sample 7 was used. As reference material for level 8, comparative sample 4 was used for all word pairs.
The panel was instructed to evaluate the above characteristics as follows:
to evaluate the feel, the sample card must be picked up with one hand and the fabric turned down. Then, the hand panel was asked to grasp the fabric to be treated in such a manner that the right side (warp side) of the denim fabric was in contact with the palm.
Consistency describes whether the fabric is given a feel of being more loosely woven or more densely woven. The sample cards were placed on a table in front of each hand panel member. The fabric was picked up with both hands and kneaded and stretched.
The wearing sensation was determined by lifting the sample card again with one hand and letting the fabric turn down. The sample card was then shaken to assess the drop pattern of the fabric. The fabric was then grasped with an empty hand for further evaluation.
Finally, to judge the surface feel, the cardboard is laid on a table. The warp-side surface was evaluated by moving the palm in the warp and weft directions.
For each sample fabric and each word pair, the average of the individual hand panel evaluations and the deviation from the average was calculated. The average is used to evaluate and rank the samples. A summary of the results is given in table 6.
Gloss of
The gloss of the individual yarns that can be used in the lyocell denim according to the present invention is measured using a gloss meter. The results for% reflectance of incident light are given in table 7. To measure the gloss of the yarns, they were wound on a pleated cardboard and the gloss was measured at 45 ° according to EN 14086-01/2003. The gloss of the fabric was measured according to TAPPI T480 at 75 ℃. The viewing angle was oriented in the yarn direction to measure yarn gloss.
Samples 1, 3, 7, 8 are yarns made from 100% high gloss lyocell filaments having the linear mass density shown in table 7.
Samples 2, 4, 5, 6 are comparative samples.
Sample 3 had better gloss than all other samples and comparative examples. The gloss of samples 1 and 6 is comparable to that of denim fabric of comparative sample 7 comprising silk.
The yarn useful for denim has a gloss of at least 20% reflectance.
It can therefore be concluded that the lyocell filament denim of the present invention also combines superior gloss and resistance to aggressive finishes.
TABLE 1 untreated samples and comparative examples
Figure BDA0002438492960000141
Figure BDA0002438492960000151
TABLE 2 samples and comparative examples after fixation
Sample 3 Sample 1 Sample No. 5 Sample 2 Comparative sample 4 Comparative sample 7 Sample No. 6
Yarn Strength-warp cN/tex
Regulation status 20/65 26.1 27.6 14.5 14.6 15.6 15.4 25.3
Wet 20.9 19.5 16.2 15.9 16 16.7 19.9
Yarn Strength-weft cN/tex
Regulation status 20/65 22.9 12.4 27.5 32.8 25.5 13.8 12.8
Wet 24.1 15.7 13 27.8 18.7 16.7 14.9
Yarn elongation-warp%
Regulation status 20/65 8.4 7.9 4.4 5 5.2 5.9 7.5
Wet 9.2 10.1 7.7 7.6 7.3 6.6 9.5
Yarn elongation-weft yarn%
Regulation status 20/65 31.3 26.1 7.9 9.8 11.5 6.8 6.2
Wet 34 34.9 9.3 11.5 13.5 7.7 7.4
Martindale abrasion test
Number of cycles-sample undamaged 41250 40000 17000 16000 28750 27500
Number of cycles to pore formation 51250 48750 19000 18000 36250 32500
Surface appearance-front-pristine after wash cycle Blue filament Blue filament Blue yarn Blue yarn Blue yarn Blue yarn Blue filament
Feather of feather 2 2 2 2 4 2.5 4.5
Pilling 5 3 4 3.5 5 3.5 5
Fiber splicing 2.5 3 2 2 2.5 2.5 2.5
Surface appearance-Back-pristine after Wash cycle Black yarn White yarn White filament White filament White filament White yarn White yarn
Feather of feather 1 1 2.5 3 3 2 1.5
Pilling 3.5 4 4 4 5 3 4
Fiber splicing 3.5 2 2.5 2.5 2 3 2.5
TABLE 3 post-garment washing samples and comparative examples
Sample 3 Sample 1 Sample No. 5 Sample 2 Comparative example 1 Comparative example 2 Sample No. 4
Yarn Strength-warp cN/tex
Regulation status 20/65 5.5 5.1 8.1 5.5 4.5 11.8 4.4
Wet 10.3 7.3 9 9 7.5 17 7.9
Yarn Strength-weft cN/tex
Regulation status 20/65 19.9 8.2 4.7 7.3 19.6 10.2 8.4
Wet 23.6 10.4 3.9 5.8 15.5 15.3 11.8
Yarn elongation-warp%
Regulation status 20/65 1.6 2.2 4.2 2.7 2.2 4.5 1.6
Wet 5.3 4.3 6.9 6.8 5.1 8.6 4.4
Yarn elongation-weft yarn%
Regulation status 20/65 25.4 27.5 2.4 2.1 9.4 5.4 5
Wet 37.7 32.6 2.9 2.9 13 12.2 10.2
Martindale abrasion test
Number of cycles-sample undamaged 6500 6500 11000
Number of cycles to pore formation 8500 9500 13000
Surface appearance-front face-pristine after wash cycle Blue filament Blue filament Blue yarn Blue yarn Blue yarn Blue yarn Blue filament
Feather of feather 3.5 3 3 3 2.5 2.5 2.5
Pilling 4 4 4 3.5 3 4 5
Fiber splicing 1 1 3 2.5 2 1.5 1
Surface appearance-Back-pristine after Wash cycle Black yarn White yarn White filament White filament White filament White yarn White yarn
Feather of feather 1 2.5 4 4 2.5 3 3
Pilling 3 4 4.5 5 2 4 5
Fiber splicing 4.5 2 1.5 1.5 1 3 2.5
TABLE 4 samples and comparative examples after Strong chlorine bleaching
Sample 3 Sample 1 Sample No. 5 Sample 2 Comparative example 1 Comparative example 2 Sample No. 4
Yarn Strength-warp cN/tex
Regulation status 20/65 4.3 3.4 4.9 4.6 Without data 9.8 2.1
Wet 6 6.4 8.6 7.8 Without data 14.9 5.7
Yarn Strength-weft cN/tex
Regulation status 20/65 21.7 9.2 2.3 3.6 Without data 10 8.8
Wet 22.8 10.7 2.2 3.8 Without data 14.3 11.3
Yarn elongation-warp%
Regulation status 20/65 1.5 1.9 2.8 3 Without data 4.2 1.3
Wet 3.4 3.8 6.8 6.5 Without data 6.3 3.4
Yarn elongation-weft yarn%
Regulation status 20/65 27.8 31.4 1 1.5 Without data 5.4 7.6
Wet 33.2 34 1.7 2.4 Without data 11 9.9
Martindale abrasion test
Number of cycles-sample undamaged 5000 Without data
Number of cycles to pore formation 9500 Without data
Surface appearance-front-pristine after wash cycle Blue filament Blue filament Blue yarn Blue yarn Blue yarn Blue yarn Blue filament
Feather of feather 3 3 3.5 3 Not tested 3 3
Pilling 5 5 4 4 4 5
Fiber splicing 1 1 2 2 1.5 1
Surface appearance-Back-pristine after Wash cycle Black yarn White yarn White filament White filament White filament White yarn White yarn
Feather of feather 1.5 3 4.5 4 Not tested 3.5 4
Pilling 3 3.5 5 5 5 5
Fiber splicing 4.5 2.5 1.5 1.5 2 2
TABLE 5 TSA and hand-feel tester test results
Figure BDA0002438492960000191
TABLE 6 hand feeling test
Figure BDA0002438492960000192
Figure BDA0002438492960000201
TABLE 7 gloss
Figure BDA0002438492960000202

Claims (14)

1. Lyocell denim (2) made of weft yarns (4) and warp yarns (6), wherein at least one of the weft yarns (4) and the warp yarns (6) comprises or consists of Lyocell filaments (8).
2. Lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the denim is bleached.
3. Lyocell denim according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the denim has a TS7 value in the TSA test of not more than 6 in the set state and/or after garment washing and/or after bleaching.
4. Lyocell denim according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the denim has a TS750 value of not more than 100 in the set state and/or after garment washing and/or after bleaching.
5. Lyocell denim according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the yarn strength of the yarn comprising or consisting of Lyocell is at least 25cN/tex after fixation and/or at least 4.5cN/tex after garment washing and/or at least 2cN/tex after bleaching.
6. The lyocell denim according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the denim in the set state scores at least 15,000 cycles to pore formation in the Martindale abrasion test, and scores 8,000 cycles to pore formation in the Martindale abrasion test after garment washing and/or after bleaching.
7. Lyocell denim according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the warp face of the denim has a pilling rating in the fixed state of not inferior to 5 in the Martindale pilling test, and/or not inferior to 5 after washing of the garment and not inferior to 5 after bleaching.
8. Lyocell denim according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the yarn elongation of at least one of the warp and weft yarns comprising lyocell filaments is at least 4% after fixation and/or at least 2% after garment washing and/or at least 1% after bleaching.
9. Lyocell denim according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the hairiness rating of the denim on the warp side is not inferior to 4 after washing of the garment and not inferior to 3 after bleaching.
10. Lyocell denim according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the denim has a fiber twist rating of no worse than 4 before and/or after fixation, and/or no worse than 4.5 after garment washing and/or no worse than 4.5 after bleaching.
11. Lyocell denim according to any of claims 1 to 10, wherein the specific hand in the direction of the warp and/or weft yarns combined or consisting of the Lyocell filaments is at least 4mN ∙ m after washing of the garment2∙g-1And/or at least 3mN ∙ m after bleaching2∙g-1。
12. Lyocell denim according to any of the claims 1 to 11, wherein the yarn consisting of or comprising Lyocell filaments (8) has a gloss of at least 20% reflection.
13. A garment comprising or consisting of lyocell denim according to any of claims 1 to 12.
14. Use of a yarn comprising or consisting of lyocell filaments in a denim fabric.
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