JP5054596B2 - Cloth for clothing - Google Patents
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- JP5054596B2 JP5054596B2 JP2008100230A JP2008100230A JP5054596B2 JP 5054596 B2 JP5054596 B2 JP 5054596B2 JP 2008100230 A JP2008100230 A JP 2008100230A JP 2008100230 A JP2008100230 A JP 2008100230A JP 5054596 B2 JP5054596 B2 JP 5054596B2
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Description
本発明は、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、および吸放湿性に優れた衣料用布帛及びそれを用いた衣料製品に関する。 The present invention relates to a cloth for clothing excellent in bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic properties, and moisture absorption and desorption, and a clothing product using the same.
近年、衣料用布帛は、快適性嗜好のニーズが高まり、耐久性や取り扱い性等の機能性だけでなく、着用或いは使用時の快適性、所謂、人の感性に訴える機能が要求されている。
従来、衣料用布帛の保温性を確保するために、合繊の中わた材が用いられ、ポリエステルやポリアミドといった合繊短繊維からなる中わたは、機械的性能をバランス良く具備することから、キルティングジャケット、ダウンジャケットなどの衣料用として広く用いられている。
中わたに要求される特性として、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、吸放湿性が挙げられるが、従来の中わたに用いられている合繊短繊維は、その断面形状が丸断面である場合が一般的であり、単糸自身の柔軟性に乏しく、繊維間空隙が大きいこと等が原因で、長時間着用すると、身体の動作に衣服素材が追従せず、十分な保温感が得られないばかりか、蒸れ感を感じたり、内衣との摩擦により静電気が発生する等、着心地が悪いものであった。
In recent years, the demand for comfort has increased in the fabric for clothing, and not only the functionality such as durability and handleability but also the comfort at the time of wearing or use, that is, the so-called human sensitivity is required.
Conventionally, in order to ensure the heat-retaining property of the cloth for clothing, a synthetic cotton medium is used, and the middle cotton made of synthetic short fibers such as polyester and polyamide has a good balance of mechanical performance. Widely used for clothing such as down jackets.
The properties required for the middle cotton include bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic properties, moisture absorption / release properties, but the synthetic short fibers used in conventional middle cotton have a cross-sectional shape. In general, it has a round cross section, and the single yarn itself is not flexible enough, and the gap between fibers is large. In addition to not being able to obtain a feeling, the feeling of stuffiness was felt, and static electricity was generated due to friction with the inner garment.
上記の様な、中わたの欠点を改善すべく、非相溶である2成分がブレンドされてなる繊維であり、且つ繊維内部に空隙を300個以上有し、さらに空隙の平均直径が0.01μm以上,1μm以下であり、空隙数が繊維の外層部に対し内層部に1.3倍以上分布する傾斜構造をもつ、断面形状が異形断面を含むボイド繊維を用いてなることを特徴とする中わたが提案されている(特許文献1参照)。確かに、微細空隙を多数有するポリエステル繊維を用いているため、保温性等は若干改善されるものの、やはり満足のいく保温性を有するものではなく、それと合わせて衣料用途に必須とされている、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、制電性及び吸放湿性等の人体生理や感性に係る高度な機能性は極めて劣るものであり、この中わたを使用した衣料は着心地の悪い、ウレタンライクの低品位な衣料製品となってしまうものであった。
上記の様な、中わたの欠点を改善し、表地との相性を改善することで、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、吸放湿性が改善されうる衣料用布帛の提供が望まれている。
In order to improve the above-mentioned defect of the inside cotton, it is a fiber in which two components that are incompatible with each other are blended, and has 300 or more voids inside the fiber, and the average diameter of the voids is 0.00. It is characterized by using void fibers having an inclined structure in which the number of voids is 1.3 times or more distributed in the inner layer portion with respect to the outer layer portion of the fiber, and the cross-sectional shape includes an irregular cross section. Medium cotton has been proposed (see Patent Document 1). Certainly, since polyester fibers having a large number of fine voids are used, the heat retention and the like are slightly improved, but they still do not have satisfactory heat retention, and are indispensable for clothing use together with it, High functionality related to human physiology and sensibility such as bending flexibility, compression flexibility, antistatic and moisture absorption / release properties is extremely inferior, and clothing using this cotton is not comfortable to wear, urethane-like It would be a low-grade clothing product.
Providing a fabric for clothing that can improve the bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic properties, moisture absorption and desorption properties by improving the above-mentioned drawbacks of cotton and compatibility with the outer surface. Is desired.
本発明の課題は、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性及び吸放湿性に優れた衣料用布帛を提供することにある。 An object of the present invention is to provide a cloth for clothing excellent in bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retaining property, antistatic property and moisture absorption / release property.
本発明者らは、上記課題に鑑み、側地織物と中わた材から構成される衣料用布帛において、中わた材として、断面形状がW型断面であるポリエステル系短繊維、再生セルロース系短繊維及び合繊系短繊維を含む中わたを用い、上下の織物の少なくとも片方に、セルロース系繊維を含有する織物を用いる事で、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性及び吸放湿性に優れた衣料用布帛を得ることを見出し、本発明を完成させるに至った。 In view of the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors, in a clothing fabric composed of a side fabric and a middle cotton material, as a middle cotton material, a polyester short fiber having a W-shaped cross section, a regenerated cellulose short fiber, In addition, by using a middle cotton containing synthetic fiber short fibers and using a fabric containing cellulosic fibers on at least one of the upper and lower fabrics, bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic properties and moisture absorption / release properties The present inventors have found that an excellent cloth for clothing can be obtained and have completed the present invention.
即ち、本発明は下記の通りである。
(1)上下に織物、中間に中わた材を配し、縫合された布帛であって、該中わたが、断
面形状がW型であるポリエステル系短繊維(A)、再生セルロース系短繊維(B)及び合繊系短繊維(C)を含むものであり、該織物の少なくとも片方が、セルロース系長繊維を含有していることを特徴とする衣料用布帛。
(2)A、B及びCの混合重量比率が、A:B:C=(10%〜40%):(10%〜40%):(20%〜80%)であることを特徴とする上記(1)記載の衣料用布帛。
(3)前記中わたが、さらに、熱接着性繊維(D)を(A)〜(D)の繊維全体に対し1〜20重量%の混合重量比率で有することを特徴とする上記(1)に記載の衣料用布帛。
(4)前記中わたの繊維充填率が0.6%〜5%であることを特徴とする上記(1)〜(3)のいずれかに記載の衣料用布帛。
(5)Aの異型度が2〜4であることを特徴とする上記(1)〜(4)のいずれかに記載の衣料用布帛。
(6)Bが銅アンモニアレーヨン繊維であることを特徴とする上記(1)〜(5)のいずれかに記載の衣料用布帛。
(7)前記上下の少なくとも片方の織物において、経糸及び/又は緯糸がセルロース系長繊維であることを特徴とする上記(1)〜(6)のいずれかに記載の衣料用布帛。
(8)前記上下の少なくとも片方の織物において、通気性が10〜100cc/cm2/secの範囲であることを特徴とする上記(1)〜(7)のいずれかに記載の衣料用布帛。
(9)前記上下の少なくとも片方の織物において、カバーファクターが800〜2000の範囲であることを特徴とする上記(1)〜(8)のいずれかに記載の衣料用布帛。
(10)前記セルロース系長繊維が銅アンモニアレーヨン繊維であることを特徴とする上記(7)〜(9)のいずれかに記載の衣料用布帛。
(11)前記布帛の湿度移行性が400g/m2・HR以上であることを特徴とする上記(1)〜(10)のいずれかに記載の衣料用布帛。
(12)上記(1)〜(11)に記載の衣料用布帛を1部又は全部に用いることを特徴とする衣料製品。
That is, the present invention is as follows.
(1) A fabric in which a woven fabric is arranged on the upper and lower sides, a middle cotton material is placed in the middle and stitched, and the middle cotton has a W-shaped cross section, and polyester short fibers (A), regenerated cellulose short fibers ( B) and synthetic short fiber (C), and at least one of the woven fabrics contains cellulosic long fibers.
(2) The mixing weight ratio of A, B and C is A: B: C = (10% to 40%) :( 10% to 40%) :( 20% to 80%) The cloth for clothing as described in said (1).
(3) The above-mentioned (1), wherein the inner cotton further has a heat-adhesive fiber (D) in a mixed weight ratio of 1 to 20% by weight with respect to the whole fibers (A) to (D). The cloth for clothing described in 1.
(4) The cloth for clothing according to any one of (1) to (3) above, wherein a fiber filling rate of the inner cotton is 0.6% to 5%.
(5) The cloth for clothing according to any one of the above (1) to (4), wherein the degree of atypical A is 2 to 4.
(6) The cloth for clothing according to any one of the above (1) to (5), wherein B is copper ammonia rayon fiber.
(7) The clothing fabric according to any one of (1) to (6), wherein in at least one of the upper and lower woven fabrics, the warp and / or the weft are cellulosic long fibers.
(8) The clothing fabric according to any one of (1) to (7) above, wherein in at least one of the upper and lower fabrics, air permeability is in a range of 10 to 100 cc / cm 2 / sec.
(9) The clothing fabric according to any one of (1) to (8) above, wherein a cover factor is in a range of 800 to 2000 in at least one of the upper and lower fabrics.
(10) The cloth for clothing according to any one of (7) to (9), wherein the cellulose-based long fibers are copper ammonia rayon fibers.
(11) The cloth for clothing according to any one of (1) to (10) above, wherein the cloth has a moisture transfer property of 400 g / m 2 · HR or more.
(12) A clothing product, wherein the clothing fabric according to any one of (1) to (11) is used in one part or all.
本発明の衣料用布帛は、上下の織物と、中間の中わたから構成される衣料用布帛であって、中わた材として、断面形状がW型断面であるポリエステル系短繊維、再生セルロース系短繊維及び合成系短繊維を含む中わたを用い、上下の織物の少なくとも片方に、セルロース系繊維を含有する織物を用いることで、中わた材の消費特性と、上下の織物の特性が相互に相まって、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性及び吸放湿性に優れた衣料用布帛を提供することができる。
特に、中わたは、断面形状がW型断面であるポリエステル系短繊維(以下、Aとする)、再生セルロース系短繊維(以下、Bとする)及び合成系短繊維(以下、Cとする)を含むことにより、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性及び吸放湿性に優れている。
本発明の第一の特徴は、A及びBは、いずれも繊維自身が屈曲に対して優れた柔軟性を有しているため、A、B及びCで構成された該中わたの曲げ柔軟性も優れたものとなる。
本発明の第二の特徴は、Aは、その繊維断面形状がW型であるがゆえに、繊維表面積が大きくなるので、本発明の中わたの繊維充填率が大きくなる。そして短繊維間の空隙に、より多量の動かない空気(デッドエアー)を保持でき、保温性が大幅に向上する。更に、Aは断面の細かい溝によって水分をしっかり吸水するため、該中わたが吸水した際に、短繊維間の空隙部に水や汗が浸透し優れた吸水性が得られ、且つ保水された水が外に出難いため、汗のべとつき感と肌に触れた時のひんやり感がなく、優れた濡れ戻り性が同時に得られるという効果を有する。又、乾燥時は、Aの表面積が大きいことによるラジエタ−効果からも速乾性も得ることができる。
本発明の第三の特徴は、Bは公定水分率が約11%程度と高い吸湿性を有するため、優れた吸放湿性を有しており、身体から発散する湿気を素早く吸収し、外へ放出するため、
湿度の高い環境下で着用した場合でも、蒸れ感やべたつき感を抑え快適性が得られる。更に、静電気を素早く空気中に逃がす性質があるので、不快なまとわりつきや着用時のパチパチ、埃の付着といったトラブルを軽減する。
本発明の第四の特徴は、Cはその繊維断面形状がW型以外の合繊系短繊維であるため、中わたの圧縮回復性および耐へたり性を低下することなく、圧縮耐久性が保持できる。
また、本発明者らは、A、B及びCの各繊維成分の選択、さらに、それらの混合重量比率を鋭意検討し、曲げ柔軟性及び圧縮柔軟性に優れているのみならず、相反する圧縮回復性や耐へたり性等の圧縮耐久性をも兼ね備えた、保温効果の高い中わたを発明するに至った。
本発明の第五の特徴は、前述の中わたを中間に用いて、上下の織物の少なくとも片方に、経糸及び/又は緯糸にセルロース系長繊維を配することで、中わたと表地との相性が改善され、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性が改善され、湿度移行性が400〜1000g/m2・HRであるという優れた吸放湿性を有することができる。
具体的には、経糸にポリエステル系長繊維且つ緯糸にセルロース系長繊維を用いて製織された裏地織物、又は経糸にセルロース系長繊維且つ緯糸にポリエステル系長繊維を用いて製織された裏地織物、又は経糸と緯糸いずれもセルロース系長繊維を用いて製織された裏地織物を、表裏どちらか片面又は表裏両面に縫合してなる布帛を提供することで、中わたの特性を十分に発揮できる衣料用布帛となる。以上のことから、本発明の布帛はキルティングジャケット、ダウンジャケット、防寒服などの衣料用途に好適に用いられる。
The cloth for clothing of the present invention is a cloth for clothing composed of upper and lower woven fabrics and an intermediate middle cotton, and as the middle cotton material, a polyester short fiber having a W-shaped cross section, a regenerated cellulose short Using cotton containing fibers and synthetic short fibers, and using a fabric containing cellulosic fibers in at least one of the upper and lower fabrics, the consumption characteristics of the middle cotton material and the properties of the upper and lower fabrics are combined with each other. It is possible to provide a cloth for clothing excellent in bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic property and moisture absorption / release.
In particular, the inner cotton is a polyester short fiber (hereinafter referred to as A), a regenerated cellulose short fiber (hereinafter referred to as B), and a synthetic short fiber (hereinafter referred to as C) whose cross-sectional shape is a W-shaped cross section. By containing, it is excellent in bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic property and moisture absorption / release.
The first feature of the present invention is that both A and B have the flexibility that the fiber itself is excellent in bending, so that the bending flexibility of the inner cotton composed of A, B, and C is as follows. Will also be excellent.
The second feature of the present invention is that since A has a W-shaped fiber cross-sectional shape, the fiber surface area is increased, so that the fiber filling rate of the present invention is increased. A larger amount of air that does not move (dead air) can be held in the gaps between the short fibers, and the heat retention is greatly improved. Furthermore, since A absorbs moisture firmly by the grooves having a fine cross section, when the inner cotton absorbs water, sweat and water permeate into the gaps between the short fibers, and excellent water absorption is obtained and retained. Since it is difficult for water to go outside, there is no sticky feeling of sweat and a cool feeling when touching the skin, and it has the effect that excellent wet-back properties can be obtained at the same time. Moreover, at the time of drying, quick-drying can also be obtained from the radiator effect due to the large surface area of A.
The third feature of the present invention is that B has a high hygroscopic property with an official moisture content of about 11%, and therefore has an excellent moisture absorption and desorption property, and quickly absorbs the moisture that emanates from the body. To release
Even when worn in a humid environment, comfort is obtained by suppressing the feeling of stuffiness and stickiness. Furthermore, since it has the property of quickly discharging static electricity into the air, troubles such as unpleasant clinging, crackling when worn, and adhesion of dust are reduced.
The fourth feature of the present invention is that since C is a synthetic short fiber having a fiber cross-sectional shape other than W-type, compression durability is maintained without deteriorating compression recovery and sag resistance of the inner cotton. it can.
In addition, the inventors have selected each of the fiber components A, B and C, and further studied their mixing weight ratio, and are not only excellent in bending flexibility and compression flexibility, but also in conflicting compression. The inventors have invented a middle warmer having a high heat retention effect and also having compression durability such as recovery and sag resistance.
The fifth feature of the present invention is that the middle cotton is used in the middle, and cellulosic long fibers are arranged on the warp and / or the weft on at least one of the upper and lower fabrics. Can be improved, bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention and antistatic properties can be improved, and the moisture transfer property can be excellent in moisture absorption / release of 400 to 1000 g / m 2 · HR.
Specifically, a lining fabric woven using polyester-based long fibers for warps and cellulose-based long fibers for wefts, or a lining fabric woven using cellulose-based long fibers for warps and polyester-based long fibers for wefts, Or for clothing that can fully demonstrate the characteristics of the inside cotton by providing a fabric formed by stitching a woven fabric woven using cellulosic long fibers on both the front and back sides or both sides of the front and back. It becomes a fabric. From the above, the fabric of the present invention is suitably used for clothing applications such as quilting jackets, down jackets, and cold clothes.
以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明に用いる中わたは、断面形状がW型断面であるポリエステル系短繊維(以下、Aとする)、再生セルロース系短繊維(以下、Bとする)及び合成系短繊維(以下、Cとする)を含むものである。
中わた材の構成繊維であるAとしては、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートなどのホモポリマー、これらポリマーとのポリエステル共重合体等の繊維形成性を有するポリエステル重合体からなる短繊維が用いられる。短繊維中に、制電剤、難燃剤、耐熱剤、耐光剤、酸化チタン等の添加剤を添加されていても何ら差し支えはない。強度、剛性および耐久性の観点から、ポリエチレンテレフタレートが好ましい。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The inside cotton used in the present invention comprises a polyester short fiber (hereinafter referred to as A), a regenerated cellulose short fiber (hereinafter referred to as B), and a synthetic short fiber (hereinafter referred to as C) having a W-shaped cross section. Included).
Short fiber made of polyester polymer having fiber-forming properties, such as homopolymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polyester copolymers with these polymers Is used. There may be no problem even if additives such as antistatic agents, flame retardants, heat-resistant agents, light-proofing agents, and titanium oxide are added to the short fibers. From the viewpoint of strength, rigidity and durability, polyethylene terephthalate is preferable.
中わた材の構成繊維Bとしては、セルロース系再生繊維であり、銅アンモニアレーヨン、ビスコースレーヨン(強力レーヨン、ポリノジックレーヨン、ハイウェットモジュラスレーヨンを含む)、精製セルロース(リヨセル)等の短繊維が用いられる。 特に制限されるものではないが、本発明の中わたの曲げ柔軟性や圧縮柔軟性を格段に向上させるには、銅アンモニアレーヨン繊維であることがより好ましく、具体的には、旭化成せんい(株)製キュプラ(ベンベルグR)が挙げられる。セルロース系再生繊維の短繊維が、銅アンモニアレーヨン以外の場合は、再生セルロース系短繊維自身の曲げ応力がやや大きくなり、中わたの曲げ柔軟性や圧縮柔軟性が低下する傾向にある。 The constituent fiber B of the middle cotton material is a cellulose-based regenerated fiber, and short fibers such as copper ammonia rayon, viscose rayon (including strong rayon, polynosic rayon, high wet modulus rayon), and purified cellulose (lyocell) are used. It is done. Although not particularly limited, copper ammonia rayon fiber is more preferable in order to remarkably improve the bending flexibility and compression flexibility of the inside cotton of the present invention. Specifically, Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd. ) Cupra (Bemberg R). When the short fiber of the cellulose-based regenerated fiber is other than copper ammonia rayon, the bending stress of the regenerated cellulose-based short fiber itself is slightly increased, and the bending flexibility and compression flexibility of the cotton tend to be reduced.
中わた材の構成繊維Cとは、ポリエステル系繊維、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリアクリルニトリル系繊維、ポリビニル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、ポリウレタン系繊維等の合成短繊維であれば特に制限されるものではなく、単糸断面形状には特に限定されず、丸形、W型でもよく、また三角型、五角型、星型、L型、T型、Y型、H型、π型、+型、#型、*型、八葉型、ドッグボーン型等の異型断面形状や、これらの中空断面形状であってもよい。 The constituent fiber C of the inner cotton material is not particularly limited as long as it is a synthetic short fiber such as a polyester fiber, a polyamide fiber, a polyacrylonitrile fiber, a polyvinyl fiber, a polypropylene fiber, and a polyurethane fiber. The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is not particularly limited, and may be round, W, triangular, pentagonal, star, L, T, Y, H, π, +, # , * -Type, Yaba-type, dog-bone type, etc., and these hollow cross-sectional shapes.
本発明における、中わた構成繊維の混合重量比率は、A:B:C=(10%〜40%):(10%〜40%):(20%〜80%)がであり、より好ましくは、A:B:C=(
15%〜35%):(15%〜35%):(30%〜70%)、更に好ましくは、A:B:C=(20%〜30%):(20%〜30%):(40%〜60%)である。
A及びBの混合重量比率がそれぞれ10%未満であると、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、又は制電性が低下する傾向にある。更に、保温性または吸放湿性がやや低下する。A又はBの混合重量比率がそれぞれ40%を超えると、制電性及び吸放湿性は問題ないが、曲げ柔軟性及び圧縮柔軟性が低下する傾向にあり、保温性も低下する傾向にある。
In the present invention, the mixing weight ratio of the inner constituent fibers is A: B: C = (10% to 40%) :( 10% to 40%) :( 20% to 80%), more preferably. , A: B: C = (
15% to 35%): (15% to 35%): (30% to 70%), more preferably A: B: C = (20% to 30%): (20% to 30%) :( 40% to 60%).
When the mixing weight ratio of A and B is less than 10%, bending flexibility, compression flexibility, or antistatic property tends to be lowered. Furthermore, heat retention or moisture absorption / release properties are slightly reduced. When the mixing weight ratio of A or B exceeds 40%, there is no problem with antistatic properties and moisture absorption / release properties, but bending flexibility and compression flexibility tend to decrease, and heat retention tends to decrease.
中わた材の繊維充填率とは、単位体積中に占める繊維の割合を言う。繊維充填率は0.6%〜5%であることが好ましい。より好ましくは0.7%〜4%、更に好ましくは0.8%〜3%である。繊維充填率が0.6%未満であると、保温性がやや低下する。又、そのような中わたを用いたキルティングジャケット、ダウンジャケット、防寒服等の衣料では、中わたの圧縮回復性が低下する傾向であり、適度な膨らみのあるシルエットが得られず、長期に着用していると外観品位が低下し、繰返しの家庭洗濯やドライクリーニング等の洗濯耐久性がなく、形態安定性に劣る。中わたを繊維充填率が5%を超えると、空気の流れが不良となり、身体から発生する熱や湿気がこもり不快感を伴う。中わた材の繊維充填率が0.6%〜5%であることは、空気層の空隙率が、95〜99.4%であることを意味し、本発明において、中わた材の空隙率が高いことが重要な特性である。 The fiber filling rate of the middle cotton material refers to the proportion of fibers in a unit volume. The fiber filling rate is preferably 0.6% to 5%. More preferably, they are 0.7%-4%, More preferably, they are 0.8%-3%. When the fiber filling rate is less than 0.6%, the heat retention is slightly lowered. In addition, in clothing such as quilted jackets, down jackets, and winter clothes that use such cotton, the compression recovery of the cotton has a tendency to decline, and a silhouette with an appropriate swelling cannot be obtained and worn for a long time. If this is the case, the appearance quality will be reduced, there will be no durability for washing such as repeated home washing and dry cleaning, and the form stability will be poor. If the fiber filling rate of the inner cotton exceeds 5%, the air flow becomes poor, and heat and moisture generated from the body are accumulated, resulting in discomfort. The fiber filling rate of the middle cotton material being 0.6% to 5% means that the porosity of the air layer is 95 to 99.4%. In the present invention, the porosity of the middle cotton material is High is an important characteristic.
A繊維における異型度とは、W型断面に外接する長方形を描き、この長辺Lを短辺Hで割った値を言う。Aの異型度が2〜4であることが好ましく、より好ましくは2.5〜3.5、更に好ましくは2.8〜3.3である。
異型度が2より小さいと、Aの曲げ応力が大きくなり、中わたの曲げ柔軟性や圧縮柔軟性が低下し、しなやかさやソフト感が得られないものとなり、更に、繊維充填率が0.6%未満となり、十分な保温性が得られにくくなる。
The degree of irregularity in the A fiber refers to a value obtained by drawing a rectangle circumscribing the W-shaped cross section and dividing the long side L by the short side H. It is preferable that the variant degree of A is 2 to 4, more preferably 2.5 to 3.5, and still more preferably 2.8 to 3.3.
If the degree of profile is less than 2, the bending stress of A becomes large, the bending flexibility and compression flexibility of the inner cotton are lowered, and the flexibility and softness cannot be obtained, and the fiber filling rate is 0.6. %, It becomes difficult to obtain sufficient heat retention.
異型度が4を超えると単糸間の空隙が極めて小さくなり、中わたとしたときの膨らみ感及び保温性が得られにくい。更に繊維充填率が5%を超えると、中わた内の空隙率が低下し、空気の流れが不良となりやすく、身体から発生する熱や湿気がこもり不快感を伴うことも生じやすい。又、W型断面の開口角度は、W型断面糸の下部凹部の両端より引き出した線を引いたときの角度で表され、W型断面形状の鋭利差を意味し、角度が大きいほど偏平となる。本発明において、W型断面の開口角度は110〜150度の範囲が好ましく、120〜140度がより好ましい。 When the degree of profile exceeds 4, the gap between the single yarns becomes extremely small, and it is difficult to obtain a feeling of swelling and heat retention when the inside yarn is used. Further, when the fiber filling rate exceeds 5%, the void ratio in the inside cotton is lowered, the air flow tends to be poor, and heat and moisture generated from the body tend to be accumulated and uncomfortable. In addition, the opening angle of the W-shaped cross section is expressed as an angle when a line drawn from both ends of the lower concave portion of the W-shaped cross-sectional yarn is drawn, and means a sharp difference in the W-shaped cross-sectional shape. Become. In the present invention, the opening angle of the W-shaped cross section is preferably in the range of 110 to 150 degrees, more preferably 120 to 140 degrees.
本発明における中わたの剛軟度とは、剛さ(しなやかさ)の程度を言う。中わたの剛軟度が65mm以下であることが好ましく、より好ましくは63mm以下、更に好ましくは60mm以下である。剛軟度が65mmを超えると、着用中の動作時の拘束感が大きいので動きにくく、身体へのフィット感が劣るものとなり着心地が悪い。中わたの剛軟度がこの範囲であると、衣料用布帛としても、充分な柔軟性、しなやか性を有し、局面追従性が向上し、身体へのフィット感にすぐれる。 In the present invention, the bending resistance of the inner cotton refers to the degree of rigidity. The bending resistance of the middle cotton is preferably 65 mm or less, more preferably 63 mm or less, and still more preferably 60 mm or less. When the bending resistance exceeds 65 mm, the feeling of restraint during operation during wearing is large, so that it is difficult to move, and the fit to the body is inferior, resulting in poor comfort. When the bending resistance of the inner cotton is within this range, the cloth for clothing has sufficient flexibility and flexibility, and the follow-up performance is improved, and the fit to the body is excellent.
中わた材の圧縮剛性とは、中わたを厚み方向に圧縮する際の圧縮のし易さの程度を言いう。圧縮剛性が0.7以下であることが好ましく、より好ましくは0.6以下である。圧縮剛性が0.7以下であると、中わたを用いた衣料を着用する際に、良好な圧縮柔らかさが得られると共に、適度な変形量で中わたが圧縮されるため、快適な着用感や寝心地が体感できる。圧縮剛性が0.7を超えると着用時に中わたが圧縮されず、着用中にごわつきを感じたり身体の動きが拘束される等の不快感が顕著であり、圧縮柔軟性が不十分となる。中わたの圧縮剛性がこの範囲であると、衣料用布帛としても、充分な圧縮剛性を有し、快適な着用感や寝心地が体感できる。 The compression rigidity of the middle cotton material refers to the degree of ease of compression when the middle cotton is compressed in the thickness direction. The compression rigidity is preferably 0.7 or less, more preferably 0.6 or less. When the compression rigidity is 0.7 or less, a good compression softness can be obtained when wearing a garment using a middle cotton, and the middle cotton is compressed with an appropriate amount of deformation. You can experience the comfort of sleeping. When the compression rigidity exceeds 0.7, the inner cotton is not compressed at the time of wearing, and uncomfortable feeling such as feeling of wobbling or restraining the movement of the body is remarkable, and the compression flexibility becomes insufficient. When the compression rigidity of the middle cotton is within this range, the cloth for clothing has sufficient compression rigidity, so that a comfortable wearing feeling and sleeping comfort can be experienced.
中わた材の半減期とは、10kVの電圧を30秒間印加した後、帯電圧が初期帯電圧の
二分の一に減衰するまでの時間である。本発明の中わたは、帯電圧の半減期が30秒以下であることが好ましく、より好ましくは20秒以下、更に好ましくは17秒以下である。半減期が30秒を超えると、例えば衣料の場合は、内衣との摩擦により静電気が発生して着心地が悪いのみならず、埃や花粉等が付着しやすく、衣服の汚れが顕著で、又花粉症を引き起こす原因ともなる。中わたの半減期がこの範囲であると、衣料用布帛としても、充分な制電性を有し、快適な着用感や粉塵付着防止効果が体感できる。
The half-life of the middle cotton material is the time from when a voltage of 10 kV is applied for 30 seconds until the charged voltage decays to one half of the initial charged voltage. In the middle cotton of the present invention, the half-life of the charged voltage is preferably 30 seconds or less, more preferably 20 seconds or less, still more preferably 17 seconds or less. If the half-life exceeds 30 seconds, for example, in the case of clothing, static electricity is generated due to friction with the inner garment, resulting in poor comfort, and dust and pollen are likely to adhere, and dirt on the clothing is noticeable. It can also cause hay fever. When the half-life of the middle cotton is within this range, the cloth for clothing has sufficient antistatic properties, and a comfortable wearing feeling and a dust adhesion preventing effect can be experienced.
本発明における織物は、通気性が10〜100cc/cm2/secであることが好ましく、より好ましくは20〜90cc/cm2/sec、更に好ましくは30〜80cc/cm2/secである。通気性が10cc/cm2/secより低いと、十分な換気効果が得られず、故に身体から発散する熱や水蒸気がこもり、蒸れ感を防止して清涼性を高めることが困難である。通気性が100cc/cm2/secを超えると、衣服内の保温性を維持することができず、しかも外気からの風が布帛を通過して衣服内に入り込み、体温が低下し防寒服の機能を発揮しないものとなる。 The woven fabric in the present invention preferably has an air permeability of 10 to 100 cc / cm 2 / sec, more preferably 20 to 90 cc / cm 2 / sec, and still more preferably 30 to 80 cc / cm 2 / sec. When the air permeability is lower than 10 cc / cm 2 / sec, a sufficient ventilation effect cannot be obtained, and therefore heat and water vapor emitted from the body are accumulated, and it is difficult to prevent a feeling of stuffiness and increase the coolness. If the air permeability exceeds 100 cc / cm 2 / sec, the heat retaining property in the clothes cannot be maintained, and the wind from the outside air passes through the cloth and enters the clothes, so that the body temperature is lowered and the function of the winter clothes. Will not exhibit.
本発明における織物は、カバーファクターが800〜2000であることが好ましく、より好ましくは900〜1900、更に好ましくは1000〜1800である。カバーファクターが800よりも小さいと、経糸と緯糸とで形成される空隙が大きくなるため、保温性が低下したり、中わた材の短繊維が吹き出す等のクレームが生じる。カバーファクターが2000よりも大きいと経糸と緯糸とで形成される空隙が小さくなるため、通気性が低くなり、十分な換気効果が得られず、故に身体から発散する熱や水蒸気がこもり、蒸れ感を防止して清涼性を高めることが困難となる。 The woven fabric in the present invention preferably has a cover factor of 800 to 2000, more preferably 900 to 1900, and still more preferably 1000 to 1800. When the cover factor is less than 800, the gap formed by the warp and the weft becomes large, so that there is a complaint that the heat retaining property is lowered or the short fibers of the inner cotton material are blown out. If the cover factor is greater than 2000, the gap formed by the warp and weft will be smaller, resulting in lower ventilation and insufficient ventilation. It is difficult to prevent and improve the coolness.
本発明における衣料用布帛の吸放湿性能を定量化する尺度として湿度移行性が挙げられる。湿度移行性とは衣服内の湿気を外部へ放出する能力を言い、高湿環境から低湿環境への布帛を通過する湿度移行量を測定する。湿度移行量は400g/m2・HR以上が好ましく、より好ましくは450〜2000g/m2・HRである。湿度移行量が400g/m2・HR未満であると、身体から発散する湿気を吸収して外へ放出することができず、特に湿度の高い環境下で着用した場合は、蒸れ感やべたつき感が増大し不快感を感じる。湿度移行量が2000g/m2・HRを超えると、身体からの水分蒸散量が増大し、その結果、皮膚の保湿作用が著しく低下するので、皮膚がかさついたり、痒くなったりする等の皮膚障害が生じる。尚、上記の各測定方法の詳細については後述する。 Humidity transferability is mentioned as a scale for quantifying the moisture absorption / release performance of the cloth for clothing in the present invention. Humidity transferability refers to the ability to release moisture in clothes to the outside, and measures the amount of humidity transfer that passes through the fabric from a high-humidity environment to a low-humidity environment. Humidity migration amount is preferably at least 400g / m 2 · HR, more preferably 450~2000g / m 2 · HR. If the amount of humidity transfer is less than 400 g / m 2 · HR, it will not be possible to absorb moisture released from the body and release it to the outside, especially when worn in a humid environment and feeling of stuffiness and stickiness Increases discomfort. When the amount of humidity transfer exceeds 2000 g / m 2 · HR, the amount of moisture transpiration from the body increases, and as a result, the skin's moisturizing action decreases significantly, causing skin to become thick and itchy. Failure occurs. The details of each measurement method will be described later.
上下の少なくとも片方の織物に使用されるセルロース系長繊維は、銅アンモニアレーヨン、ビスコースレーヨン(強力レーヨン、ポリノジックレーヨン、ハイウェットモジュラスレーヨンを含む)、精製セルロース(リヨセル)、アセテート繊維等が挙げられる。糸繊度は、33〜133dtex、好ましくは56〜111dtexであり、単糸繊度は特に限定されるものではないが0.5〜10d、好ましくは0.6〜6dtexである。この糸は、無撚糸で原糸(フラットヤーン)で用いられることが最も好ましい。しかし、糸の収束性を向上させるために、長繊維糸は軽度の撚り(10〜200T/M程度)やインターレース加工が施されていたり、仮撚りや空気噴射加工等の捲縮嵩高加工処理が施されていてもかまわない。特別な表面効果、触感効果を得る目的で、経糸に強撚した糸を用いることもできる。 Cellulosic long fibers used in at least one of the upper and lower fabrics include copper ammonia rayon, viscose rayon (including strong rayon, polynosic rayon, and high wet modulus rayon), purified cellulose (lyocell), acetate fiber, and the like. . The yarn fineness is 33 to 133 dtex, preferably 56 to 111 dtex, and the single yarn fineness is not particularly limited, but is 0.5 to 10 d, preferably 0.6 to 6 dtex. Most preferably, this yarn is a non-twisted yarn and used as a raw yarn (flat yarn). However, in order to improve the convergence of the yarn, the long fiber yarn is lightly twisted (about 10 to 200 T / M) or interlaced, or subjected to crimped bulk processing such as false twisting or air injection processing. It may be given. For the purpose of obtaining special surface effects and tactile sensations, it is also possible to use yarns that are strongly twisted on warps.
本発明における織物には、ポリエステル系長繊維も使用することができ、該ポリエステル系長繊維とはポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートなどのホモポリマー、これらポリマーとのポリエステル共重合体などの繊維形成性有するポリエステル重合体からなる繊維が用いられる。繊維中に、制電剤、難燃剤、耐熱剤、耐光剤、酸化チタン等の添加剤を添加されていても何ら差し支えはない。繊維の断面形状は、特に制限されるものはなく、丸型の他に三角型、L型、Y型、T
型、の多角形型でも良いし、多葉型、中空型や扁平型、不定形型など任意である。糸繊度は、33〜133dtex、好ましくは56〜111dtexであり、単糸繊度は特に限定されるものではないが0.5〜10d、好ましくは0.6〜6dtexである。この糸は、無撚糸で原糸(フラットヤーン)で用いられることが最も好ましい。しかし、糸の収束性を向上させるために、長繊維糸は軽度の撚り(10〜200T/M程度)やインターレース加工が施されていたり、仮撚りや空気噴射加工等の捲縮嵩高加工処理が施されていてもかまわない。特別な表面効果、触感効果を得る目的で、経糸に強撚した糸を用いることもできる。
Polyester long fibers can also be used for the woven fabric in the present invention. The polyester long fibers are homopolymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyester copolymers with these polymers, and the like. A fiber made of a polyester polymer having a fiber-forming property is used. There may be no problem even if additives such as antistatic agents, flame retardants, heat-resistant agents, light-proofing agents, and titanium oxide are added to the fibers. The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited, and in addition to the round shape, triangular shape, L shape, Y shape, T
The shape may be a polygonal shape, or a multi-leaf shape, a hollow shape, a flat shape, or an indeterminate shape. The yarn fineness is 33 to 133 dtex, preferably 56 to 111 dtex, and the single yarn fineness is not particularly limited, but is 0.5 to 10 d, preferably 0.6 to 6 dtex. Most preferably, this yarn is a non-twisted yarn and used as a raw yarn (flat yarn). However, in order to improve the convergence of the yarn, the long fiber yarn is lightly twisted (about 10 to 200 T / M) or interlaced, or subjected to crimped bulk processing such as false twisting or air injection processing. It may be given. For the purpose of obtaining special surface effects and tactile sensations, it is also possible to use yarns that are strongly twisted on warps.
本発明における織物は、経糸及び/又は緯糸がセルロース系長繊維であることが好ましい。したがって、経糸にポリエステル系長繊維且つ緯糸にセルロース系長繊維を用いても、経糸にセルロース系長繊維且つ緯糸にポリエステル系長繊維を用いても、経糸と緯糸いずれもセルロース系長繊維経を用いても、いずれの場合でもよく特に限定されるものではないが、実着用時の快適性(吸放湿性能や湿度移行性及び制電性)やドレープ性が要求される高価な衣服の場合は、経/緯糸ともセルロース系長繊維の組み合わせよりなるセルロース系繊維100%の裏地であることが好ましい。又、上記の裏地織物を、表裏どちらか片面に使用しても、表裏両面に使用してもいずれの場合でもよく特に限定されるものではないが、表裏両面に使用した方が好ましく、着用時の快適性が向上する。 In the woven fabric in the present invention, the warp and / or the weft are preferably cellulosic long fibers. Therefore, even if a polyester long fiber is used for the warp and a cellulose long fiber is used for the weft, a cellulose long fiber is used for the warp and a polyester long fiber is used for the weft, and both the warp and the weft use the cellulosic long fiber warp. However, in any case, it is not particularly limited, but in the case of expensive clothes that require comfort (moisture absorption / release performance, humidity transfer and antistatic properties) and drapeability when actually worn The warp / weft is preferably a 100% cellulosic lining made of a combination of cellulosic long fibers. In addition, the above-mentioned lining fabric may be used on either the front or back side, or on both front and back sides, and it is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use it on both sides. Comfort is improved.
織物組織としては、平織、綾織、朱子織などが挙げられるが、何れの織組織を採用するかは裏地の用途領域、要求特性などによって適宜決定することができる。例えば婦人服に関しては、薄くてソフトな風合が好まれることから、特に平織組織の裏地とすることが好ましい。又、本発明の効果を妨げない範囲で、常法の精練、染色、熱セット等の加工を受けてもよく、艶付けプレス、エンボスプレス、コンパクト加工、柔軟加工、ヒートセッティング等の物理的処理加工や、ボンディング加工、ラミネート加工、コーティング加工、蒸着加工、防汚加工、撥水加工、帯電防止加工、防炎加工、防虫加工、衛生加工、泡樹脂加工等の化学的処理加工や、その他にマイクロ波応用や、超音波応用、遠赤外線応用、紫外線応用、低温プラズマ応用等の応用処理がなされていても良い。 Examples of the woven structure include plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. Which woven structure is used can be appropriately determined depending on the use area of the lining, required characteristics, and the like. For example, with regard to women's clothing, a thin and soft texture is preferred, so that a plain weave lining is particularly preferred. Moreover, as long as the effect of the present invention is not hindered, it may be subjected to processing such as conventional scouring, dyeing, and heat setting, and physical processing such as glazing press, embossing press, compact processing, flexible processing, heat setting, etc. Chemical processing such as processing, bonding processing, laminating processing, coating processing, vapor deposition processing, antifouling processing, water repellent processing, antistatic processing, flameproofing processing, insectproof processing, sanitary processing, foam resin processing, etc. Application processing such as microwave application, ultrasonic application, far-infrared application, ultraviolet application, and low-temperature plasma application may be performed.
本発明における中わたとは、3次元的に絡合して繊維集合体を形成したものであり、例えば側地と側地との間に繊維を充填した形態のものであっても良く、A、B及びCの3種を混綿した後、得られた混綿塊をシート状の繊維集積層にする。繊維集積層を形成する主な方法としては、乾式法、湿式法、スパンボンド法、メルトブロー法等があるが、短繊維を用いる場合は乾式法或いは湿式法が好ましい。乾式法は、短繊維を紡績用カード、又は空気流によるランダム・ウェッバーで繊維集積層を作る方法である。一方、湿式法は、短繊維を水中に分散し、抄紙工程によってシート化する方法である。いずれの方法も繊維集積層をそのまま、或いは交差積層して結合する。繊維集積層を結合する方法としては、サーマルボンド法、ケミカルボンド法(含浸法及びスプレー法)、ニードルパンチ法、水流絡合法等があり、特に限定されるものではないが、本発明の中わたは、断面形状がW型断面であるポリエステル短繊維、再生セルロース系短繊維及び合成短繊維を用いて構成されているため、サーマルボンド法及びスプレー法によるケミカルボンド法を、どちらか単独で行うか、或いは両方法を組み合わせるのが好ましい。サーマルボンド法を採用する場合は、A、B及びC以外に、熱接着性繊維を含めた4種を混綿して、熱処理することによって生じた融着点を繊維間に保持すれば良い。特に家庭洗濯や工業洗濯により機械的外力が加わる場合は、耐へたり性に優れ、綿切れなどが生じないことが要求されることから、A、B、C及び熱接着性繊維(以下、Dとする)の4種を混綿し、繊維間に融着点を有することが好ましい。 The middle cotton in the present invention is a three-dimensionally entangled fiber aggregate, for example, a fiber filled between the side ground and the side ground. , B and C are mixed, and the resulting mixed cotton lump is made into a sheet-like fiber accumulation layer. As a main method for forming the fiber accumulation layer, there are a dry method, a wet method, a spun bond method, a melt blow method, and the like. When short fibers are used, a dry method or a wet method is preferable. The dry method is a method of forming a fiber accumulation layer by using short fibers in a spinning card or a random weber by airflow. On the other hand, the wet method is a method in which short fibers are dispersed in water and formed into a sheet by a papermaking process. In any method, the fiber accumulation layer is bonded as it is or by cross-laminating. As a method for bonding the fiber accumulation layer, there are a thermal bond method, a chemical bond method (impregnation method and spray method), a needle punch method, a water flow entanglement method, and the like. Is composed of polyester short fibers, regenerated cellulose short fibers and synthetic short fibers whose cross-sectional shape is a W-shaped cross section, so either the thermal bond method or the chemical bond method by the spray method is performed alone Alternatively, it is preferable to combine both methods. When the thermal bond method is adopted, in addition to A, B, and C, four types including heat-adhesive fibers may be mixed and the fusion point generated by heat treatment may be held between the fibers. In particular, when mechanical external force is applied by household washing or industrial washing, it is required to have excellent sag resistance and no splintering, so that A, B, C and heat-bonding fibers (hereinafter referred to as D) It is preferable to blend four types of the above and have a fusion point between the fibers.
本発明の中わた材に用いる熱接着性繊維としては、繊維全体が熱接着性成分からなるものであっても、繊維表面の一部又は全部に熱接着性成分が存在するものであっても良い。
Dの形態安定性が高くでき、結果として耐熱性の高い中わたとなる点で、熱接着性成分と熱接着性成分以上の軟化点或いは融点を有する成分からなり、繊維表面の一部或いは全部に熱接着性成分が存在する熱接着性複合繊維を用いることが好ましい。その場合の中わた材中での熱接着性繊維Dの混合重量比率は、A〜Dの繊維成分全体に対して1〜20重量%が好ましく、より好ましくは5〜15重量%である。
該熱接着性繊維Dが1重量%以上であれば、繊維集積層を結合するには十分であり、20重量%以内であれば、柔軟性等にも支障はない。
As the heat-adhesive fiber used for the inner cotton material of the present invention, the entire fiber may be composed of a heat-adhesive component, or the heat-adhesive component may be present on a part or all of the fiber surface. good.
D is composed of a heat-adhesive component and a component having a softening point or a melting point higher than that of the heat-adhesive component in that the form stability of D can be increased, resulting in high heat resistance, and part or all of the fiber surface It is preferable to use a thermoadhesive conjugate fiber in which a thermoadhesive component is present. In that case, the mixing weight ratio of the heat-adhesive fibers D in the inside cotton material is preferably 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight, based on the whole fiber components A to D.
If the heat-adhesive fiber D is 1% by weight or more, it is sufficient for bonding the fiber accumulation layer, and if it is within 20% by weight, there is no problem in flexibility.
熱接着性成分は特に制限されるものではなく、非晶性ポリマであっても、結晶性ポリマであっても良い。例えば、ポリエステル、ポリアミド、ポリオレフィン、ポリウレタンや、ポリエステル系エラストマー、ポリオフィン系エラストマー等の熱可塑性エラストマーが挙げられ、得られる中わたが適度な形態安定性柔軟性を有する点で、イソフタル酸共重合PET、イソフタル酸共重合PBT、或いは熱可塑性エラストマーであることが好ましい。単糸断面形状には特に限定されず、丸形、W型でもよく、また三角型、五角型、星型、L型、T型、Y型、H型、π型、+型、#型、*型、八葉型、ドッグボーン型等の異型断面形状や、これらの中空断面形状であってもよい。 The thermal adhesive component is not particularly limited, and may be an amorphous polymer or a crystalline polymer. Examples include polyesters, polyamides, polyolefins, polyurethanes, and thermoplastic elastomers such as polyester elastomers and polyolefin elastomers. Isophthalic acid copolymerized PET is obtained in that the obtained cotton has an appropriate shape stability flexibility. It is preferably an isophthalic acid copolymerized PBT or a thermoplastic elastomer. The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is not particularly limited, and may be round, W-shaped, triangular, pentagonal, star-shaped, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, H-shaped, π-shaped, + -shaped, # -shaped, * Atypical cross-sectional shape such as a mold, an eight-leaf type, and a dog bone type, or a hollow cross-sectional shape thereof may be used.
一方、スプレー法によるケミカルボンド法は、バインダの溶液を表裏のどちらか片面或いは表裏両面に均一にスプレーし、乾燥させる方法であり、バインダの溶液としては一般的なアクリル樹脂を用いれば特に限定されるものではない。
本発明の中わたは、A、B、C及びDを混綿したウェブ状の繊維集合体を積層して熱処理を施した不織布状の形態のものが好ましい。もちろん不織布でも側地の間に内在された形態であっても良く、目的用途に応じて便宜選択すれば良い。
On the other hand, the chemical bond method by the spray method is a method in which the binder solution is sprayed uniformly on one side or both sides of the front and back sides and dried, and the binder solution is particularly limited if a general acrylic resin is used. It is not something.
The inside cotton of the present invention is preferably in the form of a non-woven fabric obtained by laminating web-like fiber assemblies in which A, B, C and D are mixed and heat-treated. Of course, it may be a non-woven fabric or a form embedded between the sides, and may be conveniently selected according to the intended use.
本発明の中わたに用いる、A、B、C及びDの単糸繊度は目的用途に応じて便宜選択すればよいが、0.6dtex〜6dtexが好ましく、より好ましくは1.0dtex〜5dtexである。0.6dtexより細いと、単糸切れが発生し、中わた製造工程での生産性が悪く、消費性能面では繰返し着用したり、家庭洗濯や工業洗濯の機械的外力により外観品位が低下し、圧縮回復性及び耐へたり性に劣る。6dtexを超えると曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性に劣り、快適な着心地が得られない。
本発明の中わたに用いる、A、B、C及びDの繊維長は目的用途に応じて便宜選択すればよいが、過度に短いと繊維の絡合性が低下して、カード通過性が悪化することがあるため、繊維長は10mm以上であることが好ましく、20mm以上であることがより好ましい。また過度に長いと開繊性が低下して嵩高性が悪化することがあるため、200mm以下であることが好ましく、100mm以下であることがより好ましい。
The single yarn fineness of A, B, C and D used in the middle cotton of the present invention may be conveniently selected according to the intended use, but is preferably 0.6 to 6 dtex, more preferably 1.0 to 5 dtex. . If it is thinner than 0.6 dtex, single yarn breakage will occur, the productivity in the middle cotton production process will be poor, it will be worn repeatedly in terms of consumption performance, or the appearance quality will deteriorate due to the mechanical external force of home washing and industrial washing, Inferior to compression recovery and sag resistance. If it exceeds 6 dtex, the bending flexibility and the compression flexibility are inferior, and a comfortable wearing comfort cannot be obtained.
The fiber lengths of A, B, C and D used in the middle cotton of the present invention may be conveniently selected according to the intended use. However, if the fiber length is too short, the fiber entanglement will be deteriorated and the card passing property will deteriorate. Therefore, the fiber length is preferably 10 mm or more, and more preferably 20 mm or more. In addition, if the length is excessively long, the spreadability may be reduced and the bulkiness may be deteriorated, so that it is preferably 200 mm or less, and more preferably 100 mm or less.
本発明の中わたは、優れた曲げ柔軟性を有するA、B及びCを混綿して成型されているため、用いる繊維の重量が少なくても、圧縮された時の底打ち感が無く、且つ優れた圧縮柔軟性を示す。このため、中わたの目付けについては制限されず目的用途に応じて選択できる。例えば、極寒環境で着用する保温性の高い防寒着等を得るには、目付けは高いことが好ましく、1000g/m2以上であることが好ましく、1500g/m2以上であることがより好ましい。又、例えば、アウトドア用のカジュアルな衣料や婦人用衣料用途等の、ファッション性や着用快適性や或いは軽量性が要求される用途に用いる場合は、低目付であることが好ましく、500g/m2以下であることが好ましく、より好ましくは300g/m2以下であり、更に好ましくは100g/m2以下である。又、中わたの厚さについても同様に適宜選択すれば良い。 Since the inside cotton of the present invention is formed by blending A, B and C having excellent bending flexibility, there is no bottoming feeling when compressed even if the weight of the fiber used is small, and Excellent compression flexibility. For this reason, the weight of the inner cotton is not limited and can be selected according to the intended use. For example, in order to obtain a high temperature insulation winter clothing worn in an extremely cold environment, the basis weight is preferably high, preferably 1000 g / m 2 or more, and more preferably 1500 g / m 2 or more. In addition, for example, when used for applications that require fashionability, wearing comfort, or light weight, such as outdoor casual clothing or women's clothing, it is preferable that the fabric has a low weight per unit area of 500 g / m 2. It is preferable that it is below, More preferably, it is 300 g / m < 2 > or less, More preferably, it is 100 g / m < 2 > or less. Similarly, the thickness of the inner cotton may be selected as appropriate.
本発明を実施例に基づいて説明する。
本発明における測定方法及び評価方法は以下の通りである。
(1)中わたの糸物性の測定
1)繊度
JIS−L−1015の8−5−1に記載の繊度試験方法(短繊維−重量法)に準拠して行う。
2)繊維長
JIS−L−1015に記載の繊維長試験方法(ステープルダイヤグラム法)に準拠して行う。
The present invention will be described based on examples.
The measurement method and evaluation method in the present invention are as follows.
(1) Measurement of thread physical properties
1) Fineness This is performed in accordance with the fineness test method (short fiber-weight method) described in JIS-L-1015, 8-5-1.
2) Fiber length
This is performed according to the fiber length test method (staple diagram method) described in JIS-L-1015.
(2)織物の糸物性及び密度の測定
1)繊度
JIS−L−1013に記載の繊度試験方法(長繊維−重量法)に準拠して行う。
2)密度
JIS−L−1096に記載の密度試験方法に準拠して行う。
(3)繊維充填率
中わた繊維充填率は次式より算出した。
繊維充填率(%)
=目付け/{(厚み×(比重a×混率a+比重b×混率b+‥‥))}×100 (1)
(2) Measurement of yarn physical properties and density of fabric
1) Fineness This is performed according to the fineness test method (long fiber-weight method) described in JIS-L-1013.
2) Density Conducted according to the density test method described in JIS-L-1096.
(3) Fiber filling rate The medium cotton filling rate was calculated from the following equation.
Fiber filling rate (%)
= Weight / {(Thickness × (Specific gravity a × Mixing ratio a + Specific gravity b × Mixing ratio b +...))} × 100 (1)
(4)異型度の算出
W型断面に外接する長方形を描き、この長辺Lを短辺Hで割った値を異型度とした。
(5)剛軟度
JIS L−1096 剛軟度試験方法A法(45°カンチレバー法)に準拠して行う。
(6)圧縮剛性の測定
カトーテック(株)製KES−G5圧縮試験機を使用し、中わた試料を面積10cm2の円形表面を持つ銅板間(圧縮速度0.05cm/sec)で圧縮し、圧縮力P=10gf/cm2における 試料の圧縮剛さを測定した。
(4) Calculation of degree of irregularity A rectangle circumscribing the W-shaped cross section was drawn, and a value obtained by dividing the long side L by the short side H was defined as the degree of irregularity.
(5) Bending softness It is performed in accordance with JIS L-1096 Bending Softness Test Method A (45 ° cantilever method).
(6) Measurement of compression rigidity Using a KES-G5 compression tester manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., compressing the inner cotton sample between copper plates having a circular surface with an area of 10 cm 2 (compression speed 0.05 cm / sec), Compressive force P = 10 gf / cm 2 The compression stiffness of the sample was measured.
(7)制電性
JIS L−1094 半減期試験方法A法に準拠して行う。
(8)保温性
JIS L−1096 保温性試験方法(冷却法)に準拠して行う。
(9)通気性
JIS−L−1096 通気性試験方法(A法空気量)に準拠して行う。
(10)カバーファクター
織物のカバーファクターは次式より算出した。
カバーファクター=(DWp/1.1)1/2×MWp+(DWf/1.1)1/2×MWf
但し、DWpは経糸繊度(dtex)、MWpは経糸織密度(本/インチ)、DWfは緯糸繊度(dtex)、MWfは緯糸織密度(本/インチ)である。
(7) Antistatic property Performed in accordance with JIS L-1094 half-life test method A method.
(8) Thermal insulation JIS L-1096 Performed according to the thermal insulation test method (cooling method).
(9) Breathability Performed according to JIS-L-1096 breathability test method (Method A air volume).
(10) Cover factor The cover factor of the fabric was calculated from the following equation.
Cover factor = (DWp / 1.1) 1/2 × MWp + (DWf / 1.1) 1/2 × MWf
However, DWp is the warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (lines / inch), DWf is the weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weave density (lines / inch).
(11)吸放湿性
所定量の衣料用布帛をサンプリングし、絶乾状態での重量を測定する(絶乾条件は105℃×2時間である)。雰囲気X(20℃×65%RH)及び雰囲気Y(30℃×90%RH)で24時間放置した後の重量を測定する。これらの測定値から、雰囲気Xでの吸湿率は(2)式で求め、雰囲気Yでの吸湿率は(3)式で求めた。又、吸放湿能力(%)は(4)式で求めた。
雰囲気Xの吸湿率(重量%)=(雰囲気Xでの重量―絶乾重量)/絶乾重量×100 (2)
雰囲気Yの吸湿率(重量%)=(雰囲気Yでの重量―絶乾重量)/絶乾重量×100 (3)
吸湿能力(重量%)=(雰囲気Yでの吸湿率)−(雰囲気Xでの吸湿率) (4)
吸湿率は大きい方が吸湿量が多い。又、吸放湿能力は快適性を得るためのドライビングフォースであり、大きい方が良い。
(11) Moisture absorption / release property A predetermined amount of cloth for clothing is sampled, and the weight in an absolutely dry state is measured (the absolutely dry condition is 105 ° C. × 2 hours). The weight after being allowed to stand for 24 hours in the atmosphere X (20 ° C. × 65% RH) and the atmosphere Y (30 ° C. × 90% RH) is measured. From these measured values, the moisture absorption rate in the atmosphere X was determined by the equation (2), and the moisture absorption rate in the atmosphere Y was determined by the equation (3). Further, the moisture absorption / release capacity (%) was obtained by the equation (4).
Moisture absorption rate of atmosphere X (% by weight) = (weight in atmosphere X−absolute dry weight) / absolute dry weight × 100 (2)
Moisture absorption rate (% by weight) of atmosphere Y = (weight in atmosphere Y−absolute dry weight) / absolute dry weight × 100 (3)
Hygroscopic capacity (% by weight) = (Hygroscopic rate in atmosphere Y)-(Hygroscopic rate in atmosphere X) (4)
The higher the moisture absorption rate, the greater the amount of moisture absorption. Moreover, the moisture absorption / release capacity is a driving force for obtaining comfort, and a larger one is better.
(12)湿度移行性
カトーテック(株)製、サーモラボIIを使用し、20℃、65%RH環境下で、30℃の熱板(熱板全体が12cm角、その内、計測用熱板が10cm角、周囲に幅1cmのガード熱板あり)に、アクリル樹脂枠(15cm角、中央に10cm角の穴が有り、厚み5mm、中央の穴にポリエステルモノフィラメント糸を15mm間隔に縦横格子状に張ったもの)をのせ、その上に試料15cm角の裏面(身体側になる面)を熱板側に向けて設置し、更に上から発泡スチロール枠(15cm角、中央に10cm角の穴)を乗せる。発泡スチロール枠の周囲をドラフティングテープ(ニチバン(株)製)で固定し、風速0.3m/secにおいて20分間静置の後、熱板を30℃に保つのに必要な熱量WI(W)を計測した。次に、30℃の熱板(熱板全体が12cm角、その内、計測用熱板が10cm角、周囲に幅1cmのガード熱板あり)の上から9cm角の濾紙を熱板の中央に乗せ、水0.25mlを濾紙全体に含浸させ、アクリル樹脂枠(15cm角、中央に10cm角の穴が有り、厚み5mm、中央の穴にポリエステルモノフィラメント糸を15mm間隔に縦横格子状に張ったもの)を乗せる。その上から15cm角の試料の裏面(身体側になる面)を熱板側に向けて設置し、更に上から発泡スチロール枠(15cm角、中央に10cm角の穴)を乗せる。発泡スチロール枠の周囲をドラフティングテープ(ニチバン(株)製)で固定し、風速0.3m/secにおいて20分間静置の後、熱板を30℃に保つのに必要な熱量WII(W)を計測する。請求項9に記載の布帛の湿度移行量は次式より算出した。
湿度移行量(g/m2・HR)
=(WII−WI)/6.08/1.30×1.36×3600 (5)
(12) Humidity transfer Using Thermolab II, manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., at 20 ° C. and 65% RH environment, a 30 ° C. hot plate (the entire hot plate is 12 cm square, of which the hot plate for measurement is A 10cm square with a guard hot plate with a width of 1cm around it, and an acrylic resin frame (15cm square, with a 10cm square hole in the center, 5mm thick, and polyester monofilament yarns in the center hole stretched in a vertical and horizontal lattice at 15mm intervals. A 15 cm square back surface (the body side) is placed on the hot plate, and a Styrofoam frame (15 cm square, 10 cm square hole in the center) is placed on the top. The amount of heat WI (W) required to keep the hot plate at 30 ° C after fixing the periphery of the expanded polystyrene frame with a drafting tape (manufactured by Nichiban Co., Ltd.) and leaving it at a wind speed of 0.3 m / sec for 20 minutes. Measured. Next, a 9 cm square filter paper is placed in the center of the hot plate at 30 ° C. (the entire hot plate is 12 cm square, of which the measuring hot plate is 10 cm square and there is a guard hot plate with a width of 1 cm around). Put 0.25 ml of water on the filter paper and place it on an acrylic resin frame (15 cm square, with a 10 cm square hole in the center, 5 mm thickness, polyester monofilament yarn stretched at 15 mm intervals in a vertical and horizontal lattice pattern in the center hole ). From the top, the back side of the 15 cm square sample (the surface that becomes the body side) is placed facing the hot plate, and from the top, the expanded polystyrene frame (15 cm square, 10 cm square hole in the center) is placed. Fix the periphery of the expanded polystyrene frame with drafting tape (manufactured by Nichiban Co., Ltd.) and let stand for 20 minutes at a wind speed of 0.3 m / sec. measure. The humidity shift amount of the fabric according to claim 9 was calculated from the following equation.
Humidity transfer amount (g / m 2 · HR)
= (WII-WI) /6.08/1.30×1.36×3600 (5)
[実施例1]
Aは繊度1.4dtex、繊維長38mm、Bは繊度1.4dtex、繊維長51mm、Cは繊度1.1dtex、繊維長38mm、Dは繊度1.4dtex、繊維長38mmを、A:B:C:D=30:20:40:10の重量比率で混綿し、サーマルボンド法とケミカルボンド法(スプレー法)を併用した成形方法によって中わたを製造した。
次に経糸に56dtex/30fの銅アンモニアレーヨン長繊維、緯糸に84dtex/45fの銅アンモニアレーヨン長繊維を用いて、経糸密度130本/インチ、緯糸密度82本/インチ、目付65g/m2、製織後の織物幅145cmの平組織の生機を製織した。その後、表1記載の条件でオープンソーパー型連続精練機を用いて精練を行った。引き続き表2記載の条件で染色した後、表3記載の仕上げ加工条件で樹脂加工を行って裏地織物を得た。
上記の裏地織物を中わたの表裏両面に用いて縫合し、キルティング状布帛を作製した。中わたの曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、及びキルティング状布帛の吸放湿性、湿度移行性を評価した。その結果を表7に示す。
[Example 1]
A is fineness 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, B is fineness 1.4 dtex, fiber length 51 mm, C is fineness 1.1 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, D is fineness 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, A: B: C : D = 30: 20: 40: 10 was blended at a weight ratio, and a cotton was produced by a molding method using a thermal bond method and a chemical bond method (spray method) in combination.
Next, using 56 dtex / 30f copper ammonia rayon long fiber for warp and 84 dtex / 45f copper ammonia rayon long fiber for weft, weft density 130 / inch, weft density 82 / inch, basis weight 65g / m 2 , weaving Later, a plain machine with a woven fabric width of 145 cm was woven. Thereafter, scouring was performed using an open soap type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 1. Subsequently, after dyeing under the conditions described in Table 2, resin processing was performed under the finishing conditions described in Table 3 to obtain a lining fabric.
The above lining fabric was stitched using both the front and back sides of the inner cotton to produce a quilted fabric. The bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic property, and moisture absorption / release properties and moisture transferability of the quilted fabric were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 7.
[実施例2]
実施例1と同様の方法で、A:B:C:D=10:40:40:10の重量比率で混綿し、中わたを得た。
次に経糸に56dtex/30fの銅アンモニアレーヨン長繊維と緯糸に84dtex/36fのポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊維を用いて、経糸密度131本/インチ、緯糸密度82本/インチ、目付63g/m2、生機幅132.0cmの平組織の生機を製織した。その後、表1記載の条件でオープンソーパー型連続精練機を用いて精練を行った。引き続き表4記載の条件で染色した後、表3記載の仕上げ加工条件で樹脂加工を行い裏地織物を得た。
上記の裏地織物を中わたの表裏両面に用いて縫合し、キルティング状布帛を作製した。中わたの曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、及びキルティング状布帛の吸放湿性、湿度移行性を評価した。その結果を表7に示す。
[Example 2]
In the same manner as in Example 1, A: B: C: D was blended at a weight ratio of 10: 40: 40: 10 to obtain cotton.
Next, using 56 dtex / 30 f copper ammonia rayon long fiber for the warp and 84 dtex / 36 f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber for the weft, the warp density is 131 yarns / inch, the weft density is 82 yarns / inch, the basis weight is 63 g / m 2 , and the machine width is A 132.0 cm plain machine was woven. Thereafter, scouring was performed using an open soap type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 1. Subsequently, after dyeing under the conditions described in Table 4, resin processing was performed under the finishing conditions described in Table 3 to obtain a lining fabric.
The above lining fabric was stitched using both the front and back sides of the inner cotton to produce a quilted fabric. The bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic property, and moisture absorption / release properties and moisture transferability of the quilted fabric were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 7.
[実施例3]
実施例1と同様の方法で、A:B:C:D=40:10:40:10の重量比率で混綿し、中わたを製造した。次に実施例2と同様の方法で裏地織物を得た。
上記の裏地織物を中わたの表裏両面に用いて縫合し、キルティング状布帛を作製した。中わたの曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、及びキルティング状布帛の吸放湿性、湿度移行性を評価した。その結果を表7に示す。
[Example 3]
In the same manner as in Example 1, A: B: C: D was mixed at a weight ratio of 40: 10: 40: 10 to produce a cotton. Next, a lining fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2.
The above lining fabric was stitched using both the front and back sides of the inner cotton to produce a quilted fabric. The bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic property, and moisture absorption / release properties and moisture transferability of the quilted fabric were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 7.
[比較例1]
実施例1と同様の方法で、Bとしてビスコースレーヨンの繊度1.4dtex、繊維長51mmを用い、A:B:C:D=0:45:50:5の重量比率で混綿し中わたを製造した。次に実施例2と同様の方法で裏地織物を得た。
上記の裏地織物を中わたの表裏両面に用いて縫合し、キルティング状布帛を作製した。中わたの曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、及びキルティング状布帛の吸放湿性、湿度移行性を評価した。その結果を表7に示す。
[Comparative Example 1]
In the same manner as in Example 1, using viscose rayon with a fineness of 1.4 dtex and a fiber length of 51 mm as B, blending cotton with a weight ratio of A: B: C: D = 0: 45: 50: 5 Manufactured. Next, a lining fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2.
The above lining fabric was stitched using both the front and back sides of the inner cotton to produce a quilted fabric. The bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic property, and moisture absorption / release properties and moisture transferability of the quilted fabric were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 7.
[比較例2]
実施例1と同様の方法で、A:B:C:D=45:0:50:5の重量比率で混綿し中わたを製造した。次に実施例2と同様の方法で裏地織物を得た。
上記の裏地織物を中わたの表裏両面に用いて縫合し、キルティング状布帛を作製した。中わたの曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、及びキルティング状布帛の吸放湿性、湿度移行性を評価した。その結果を表7に示す。
[Comparative Example 2]
In the same manner as in Example 1, mixed cotton was produced by blending with a weight ratio of A: B: C: D = 45: 0: 50: 5. Next, a lining fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2.
The above lining fabric was stitched using both the front and back sides of the inner cotton to produce a quilted fabric. The bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic property, and moisture absorption / release properties and moisture transferability of the quilted fabric were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 7.
[比較例3]
繊度3.3dtex、繊維長51mmのCを100%用いてニードルパンチ法による成形方法によって中わたを製造した。
次に経糸に56dtex/24fのポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊維、緯糸に84dtex/36fのポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊維を用いて、経糸の密度144本/インチ、緯糸の密度124本/インチ、目付67g/m2、製織後の織物幅131.5cmの平組織の生機を製織した。次に2g/Lの炭酸ソーダと2g/Lのスコアロール(花王(株)社製)を含む水溶液を用いて、液流染色機で130℃×10分の精練を行った。その後、液流染色機により表5記載の条件で染色を行い、還元洗浄を経て染色織物を得た。この染色織物を表6記載の条件で仕上加工を行って裏地織物を得た。
上記の裏地織物を中わたの表裏両面に用いて縫合し、キルティング状布帛を作製した。中わたの曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、及びキルティング状布帛の吸放湿性、湿度移行性を評価した。その結果を表7に示す。
[Comparative Example 3]
Using 100% C with a fineness of 3.3 dtex and a fiber length of 51 mm, a cotton was produced by a molding method using the needle punch method.
Next, using 56 dtex / 24f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber for warp and 84 dtex / 36f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber for weft, the density of warp is 144 yarns / inch, the density of weft yarns is 124 yarns / inch, the fabric weight is 67 g / m 2 , weaving Later, a plain machine with a fabric width of 131.5 cm was woven. Next, using an aqueous solution containing 2 g / L sodium carbonate and 2 g / L score roll (manufactured by Kao Corporation), scouring was performed at 130 ° C. for 10 minutes with a liquid dyeing machine. Then, it dye | stained on the conditions of Table 5 with the liquid-flow dyeing machine, and dyeing | staining textile fabric was obtained through the reduction | restoration washing | cleaning. The dyed fabric was finished under the conditions shown in Table 6 to obtain a lining fabric.
The above lining fabric was stitched using both the front and back sides of the inner cotton to produce a quilted fabric. The bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic property, and moisture absorption / release properties and moisture transferability of the quilted fabric were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 7.
表7から明らかなように、実施例1〜3は曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、吸放湿性及び湿度移行性の全てにおいて優れたものとなった。特に実施例2はBの重量比率を大きくしているので、実施例1及び実施例3に比べて吸放湿性に優れ、蒸れ感やべたつき感が殆ど感じられない。一方、実施例3はAの重量比率を大きくしているので、実施例1及び実施例2に比べて保温性が格段に向上する。
しかし、比較例1は曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、及び保温性に劣るものであり、比較例2及び比較例3は曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、吸放湿性、湿度移行性の全てにおいて劣るものであった。
As is apparent from Table 7, Examples 1 to 3 were excellent in all of bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic properties, moisture absorption / release properties, and humidity transfer properties. Particularly in Example 2, since the weight ratio of B is increased, the moisture absorption and desorption properties are superior to those of Examples 1 and 3, and the feeling of stuffiness and stickiness is hardly felt. On the other hand, in Example 3, since the weight ratio of A is increased, the heat retaining property is remarkably improved as compared with Examples 1 and 2.
However, Comparative Example 1 is inferior in bending flexibility, compression flexibility, and heat retention, and Comparative Example 2 and Comparative Example 3 are bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic, moisture absorption / release, The humidity transferability was inferior.
本発明は、曲げ柔軟性、圧縮柔軟性、保温性、制電性、および吸放湿性に優れた衣料用布帛及びそれを用いた衣料製品を提供するものであり、キルティングジャケット、ダウンジャケット、防寒服等の衣料用途に好適に用いられる。 The present invention provides a fabric for clothing excellent in bending flexibility, compression flexibility, heat retention, antistatic property, and moisture absorption and desorption, and a clothing product using the same, and includes a quilting jacket, down jacket, cold protection It is suitably used for clothing applications such as clothes.
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