BR112020004280A2 - lyocell filament denim - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a denim fabric that is used for clothing (1). The fabric is made from weft threads (4) and warp threads (6). At least one of the warp threads and one of the weft threads contains or consists of lyocell filaments (8). The resulting material combines high mechanical resistance against wear and tear with superior softness, smoothness and shine. In addition, the denim according to the invention is liable to target. The denim according to the invention represents a new class of denim together with existing cotton denim and denim with a silk component.

Description

Descriptive Report of the Invention Patent for "BRIO DE FILIO DE LIOCEL" ,.

[001] The invention relates to a denim fabric.

[002] The denim is a cloth that is usually woven from cotton like a fabric with a warp with a twill pattern. A very common denim fabric is denim dyed denim, in which only the warp is dyed. The plot remains white. The warp core, however, remains undyed, which results in fading characteristics typical of denim. Due to the warp weave, the denim is colored - typically indigo - on the outside and white - colorless - on the inside.

[003] Although cotton is a highly resistant fiber and therefore capable of undergoing an aggressive finish, its mechanical properties and its tactile qualities are not ideal and give the denim only a small variety of features.

[004] Therefore, it has been tried in the past to improve the qualities of denim, replacing at least partially cotton with silk and / or artificial fibers and filaments. An example is the addition of elastane to increase elasticity. Normally, up to 3% elastane can be added; more elastane is detrimental to longevity.

[005] Continuous man-made filament yarns are widely used in the textile industry to produce fabrics with a distinct character compared to fabrics produced from yarns made from discrete (non-continuous) length fibers. A continuous filament yarn is one in which all fibers are continuous along any length of the yarn. A continuous filament yarn will normally consist of 20 to 200 or more individual fibers, which are all parallel to each other and to the yarn axis when produced. The yarn is produced by extruding a solution or melt from a polymer or polymer derivative and then winding the yarn produced on a coil or spool or by forming a cake by centrifugal winding.

[006] Synthetic polymer continuous filament yarns are common. For example, nylon, polyester and polypropylene continuous filament yarns are used in a wide variety of fabrics. They are produced by spinning the melt of a molten polymer through a spinneret with a number of holes that correspond to the number of fibers required in the produced yarn. After the melted polymer has started to solidify, the yarn can be pulled to guide the polymer's molecules and improve the yarn's properties.

[007] Continuous filament yarns can also be spun from cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate, by dry spinning. The polymer is dissolved in a suitable solvent and then extruded through a die. The solvent evaporates quickly after extrusion, causing the polymer to precipitate as a wire. The newly produced yarn can be pulled to guide the polymer molecules.

[008] Continuous filament yarns can also be produced from cellulose using the viscose process. Cellulose is converted to cellulose xanthate by reaction with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide and then dissolved in a sodium hydroxide solution. The cellulose solution, commonly called viscose, is extruded through a die into an acid bath. The sodium hydroxide is neutralized, causing the cellulose to precipitate. At the same time, cellulose xanthate is converted back to cellulose by reacting with the acid. The newly formed fiber is pulled to guide the cellulose molecules, washed to remove reagents from the fiber and then dried and wound in a bobbin. In previous versions of this process, the wet yarn was collected in a cake using a centrifugal reel - a Topham Box. The yarn cake was then dried in an oven before wrapping in a bobbin.

[009] Continuous filament cellulose yarns are also produced using the cupro process. The cellulose is dissolved in a solution of cuprammonium hydroxide. The resulting solution is extruded into a water bath where the cuprammonium hydroxide is diluted and the cellulose precipitates. The resulting yarn is washed, dried and wound in a bobbin.

[010] Cellulosic continuous filament yarns produced by the viscose or cupro process can be made into fabrics by weaving. The fabrics produced are used for a variety of applications, including linings for women's clothing and men's clothing.

[011] Fabrics made from continuous filament cellulose threads are good at treating moisture to increase user comfort. They do not generate static electricity as quickly as fabrics made from synthetic filament yarns.

[012] Fabrics made from currently available continuous filament cellulose yarn generally have poor physical properties. Dry strength and tear resistance are weak compared to fabrics made from synthetic polymers, such as polyester. The wet resistance is much less than the dry resistance due to the interactions between cellulose and water. Abrasion resistance is low. Interactions with water also soften cellulose, making fabrics made from yarn unstable when moistened. This is particularly problematic when washing these materials in a household washing machine.

[013] Due to these deficiencies, products that were originally manufactured with continuous filament yarn are now mainly manufactured with synthetic filament yarn, such as polyester and nylon.

[014] However, there are problems with synthetic yarns. The fabrics made with them do not have the ability to manipulate moisture from fabrics made from cellulose yarns. Synthetic fabrics can generate static electricity. Some people find that fabrics made with synthetic threads are much less comfortable than silk. In addition, fabrics made from synthetic yarns have poor washing tolerance, requiring dry cleaning to prevent excessive shrinkage.

[015] In relation to the available denim fabrics, it is necessary to create a denim fabric with high moisture absorption, which can be finished with a wide variety of aggressive agents, which is washable and soft.

[016] This object is resolved by a denim fabric made of weft and warp threads, in which at least one of the weft and warp threads contains or consists of lyocell filaments.

[017] Such lyocell filament denim supports aggressive finishing substances. In addition, the denim comprising or consisting of lyocell filament yarns is softer and softer than even denim with a silk component. Thus, the lyocell filament denim of the invention gives rise to a new class of fabrics with an entirely new set of properties. This is even more surprising, as one would expect from the properties of the cotton yarn that - if in any way the denim that contains or consists of lyocell fiber would be a substitute for cotton denim.

[018] Liocel is the generic name given to a type of cellulosic fiber manufactured by man, produced by a process of direct dissolution. The lyocell process is described, for example, in US 4,246,221 and WO 93/19230.

[019] A wood pulp paste is formed with a solution of amine oxide in water. The water is then evaporated from the paste in a thin film evaporator container. When the water level is reduced below a certain level, cellulose forms a solution in the amine oxide. The resulting viscous liquid solidifies to a glassy solid below approximately 70 ° C. If kept above that temperature, it can be pumped through a die to form filaments that are immediately immersed in water, where dilution of the amine oxide causes the cellulose to precipitate.

[020] The spinneret used to extrude the amine oxide cellulose solution has several holes corresponding to the number of filaments required in the continuous filament yarn. After extrusion, the newly formed wire is washed clean of the amine oxide with a countercurrent flow of water. This washing can be done in reels with automatic advance, in which water is introduced to wash the fiber. A finish can be applied to aid processing and the wire is dried. The washed and dried yarn is wound on a bobbin.

[021] In the lyocell process, cellulose in the form of wood pulp is the only raw material used. The wood pulp used comes from sustainable managed forests. The filaments produced are 100% cellulose and are the only production from the process. The amine oxide solvent is recovered from the wash water and reused to produce more filaments. This recovery may reach 99.7%. As a result, the environmental impact of the lyocell process is very low. There are practically no releases of gaseous or liquid emissions from the process and the filament produced is free of solvents.

[022] On the other hand, the viscose process uses carbon disulfide, sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid and zinc sulfate. Hydrogen sulfide and carbon disulfide can be released from the process, unless great care is taken. Sodium sulfate is produced as a by-product of the process.

[023] The invention can be further improved by the following additional features, which can be combined independently of each other and each exhibits a different technical effect.

[024] The continuous filament lyocell yarns used to produce the products of the invention can be yarns produced in an untwisted state or can be twisted by rewinding. It may be a bent wire. It can be combined with another continuous filament yarn or staple fiber yarn, by twisting the yarns together or mixing them using, for example, an air jet.

[025] The lyocell denim according to the invention preferably contains at least 10% lyocell filaments in at least one of the warp threads and threads. Preferably, the minimum global content of lyocell filaments in lyocell denim is greater than 10%. A content greater than 10% can significantly improve the manual feel of the fabric, given the soft structure of a thread that contains or consists of lyocell filaments. Consequently, the total lyocell content of at least 10% already produces a tactile impact, regardless of whether the Liocel filament is used in the warp or weft. In addition, a mixture of at least 10% of lyocell filaments with other synthetic or cellulose filaments, for example, with viscose or Cupro filaments, or with Viscose or Cupro staple fibers, or wool and cotton, improves the strength of the thread. Finally, a mixture of at least 10% lyocell and synthetic filaments = significantly improves the breathability and moisture management of the fabric.

[026] The dyeing and finishing procedures for the denim process are very demanding, as they combine a strong chemical impact with a strong mechanical treatment of the fabric. Consequently, viscose and silk fibers cannot be used in these processes, as they would not support this procedure. This is the reason why viscose and / or cupro staple fibers and filaments can only be used in a very small proportion in combination with lyocell filaments or may even need to be replaced with lyocell filaments in another embodiment.

[027] According to another preferred modality, the denim is bleached. In contrast to, for example, twins with a silk content, lyocell filaments are capable of being treated with an aggressive finish of agents such as chlorine-based bleaches. Furthermore, it has been surprisingly found that an aggressive finishing agent, in particular chlorine-based bleach, softens the yarn that contains or consists of lyocell filaments and therefore actually improves the softness and smoothness of lyocell denim .

[028] The lyocell denim according to the invention has superior softness. An indirect measure for smoothness is the TS7 value, as determined by a TSA fabric smoothness analyzer. According to one embodiment, the denim according to the invention has a TS7 value of no more than 8 in the fixed state, that is, before washing the garment. In addition, a TS7 value of no more than 6 can be obtained with the denim of the invention after washing the laundry and even after bleaching.

[029] TSA also generates another parameter, the TS750 value, which is correlated to smoothness. Preferably, the denim according to the invention in the fixed state has a TS750 value not exceeding

120. The ATS750 value of no more than 120 can also be maintained after laundry and / or after bleaching.

[030] With the softness and / or softness indicated above, the denim according to the invention has greater softness and / or softness than a cotton denim and a softness and / or softness up to partially superior to the silk threaded denim.

[031] Preferably, the denim also has high mechanical resilience. For example, the denim can mark at least 15,000 cycles for the formation of the hole in a Martindale abrasion test in the fixed state, that is, before washing the clothes. In another modality, the brim can mark 8,000 cycles for the formation of the hole after washing the clothes and / or after bleaching. This indicates that the denim according to the invention can be used for textiles subject to intense wear.

[032] The outer face of the denim, that is, the warp face of the denim, may, in another modality, have a degree of bubble and lint formation of not less than 5 in the fixed state, that is, before washing the clothes and / or not less than 5 after washing clothes and is no worse than after bleaching.

[033] The resistance of the denim yarn in at least one direction, warp and / or weft, in which the lyocell filament yarn is used is preferably at least 20 cN / tex, more preferably at least 25 cN / tex, in fixed state condition 20/65 and / or at least cN / tex, preferably at least 20 cN / tex in the wet state. After washing the garment, the yarn resistance in at least one direction, warp and / or weft, in which the lyocell filament yarn is used was preferably at least 4.5 cN / tex, more preferably in at least 5 cN / tex condition 20/65 and / or at least 3, preferably at least 20 cN / tex wet. After bleaching the yarn resistance in at least one direction, warp and / or weft, in which the lyocell filament yarn is used is at least 20 cN / tex, preferably at least 25 cN / tex, in condition 20 / 65 and preferably at least 2 cN / tex, more preferably at least 5 cN / tex in the wet state.

[034] The elongation of the weft yarn and / or warp yarn that contains or consists of lyocell filaments can be at least 4% after fixing and / or at least 2% after washing clothes and / or at least 1% after bleaching.

[035] The denim coat according to the invention can have a degree of not less than 4 after washing the garment and not less than 3 after bleaching on the warp face, that is, the outer face of the denim.

[036] The fiber seam of the denim according to the invention can have a grade of not less than 4 before and / or after fixing and / or not less than 4.5 after washing the clothes and / or not less than 4 , 5 after bleaching.

[037] All of the above parameters qualify the denim according to the invention as a suitable fabric for an extremely wide range of denim applications. The combination of softness, smoothness and shine, on the one hand, and the mechanical properties such as wear resistance and yarn resistance, on the other, present a unique combination for denim.

[038] The specific side, as determined by a Handle-O-Meter (testing machine for surface friction and laminated material flexibility) in the direction of the warp and / or weft threads that contain or consist of lyocell filaments is at least at least 4 mN m2g'1 after washing clothes and / or at least 3 mN m2g'1 after bleaching. These values indicate a high softness and flexibility of the denim of the invention.

[039] The brightness of the warp yarn and / or weft containing, preferably consisting of lyocell filaments can be at least 20% reflection. This allows you to create a denim with high gloss.

[040] The invention also relates to a garment, in particular a female garment and / or men's fashion, such as jackets, coats, blouses, dresses and pants, in which a lyocell denim is used as described above.

[041] In addition, the invention relates to the use of a yarn that contains or consists of lyocell filaments in a denim fabric.

[042] The moisture recovery of the fabric, measured according to the ASTMD 1909 standard, is an indicator of the comfort level. Mulberry silk recovers 11% moisture and offers one of the best comfort levels of all fabrics in terms of moisture recovery. The lyocell and / or denim filament yarn according to the invention preferably has a moisture recovery of at least 13%, which results in a similar or even better comfort than mulberry silk.

[043] The lyocell filament denim of the invention can be of any style, fabric or finish that is suitable for production with a continuous filament yarn and results in a denim comparable to cotton. Lyocell filament denim can be constructed as plain fabric, twill, satin, satin, hopsack, cord and sophisticated fabrics. Fabrics can be woven using any loom suitable for weaving continuous filament yarns, including shuttle looms, rapier looms, projectile looms or ribbon looms.

[044] Lyocell denim fabrics produced using continuous filament lyocell yarns may look and look similar to a fabric produced from continuous filament viscose yarns, but have significantly better physical properties. Higher thread resistance and modulus results in greater resistance to fabric breakage, tear resistance, abrasion resistance and stability. The properties of wet tissue are also superior.

[045] Figure 1 schematically shows a garment 1 that is at least partly made from a lyocell denim 2. Garment 1 is shown only schematically as pants, but is not limited to it. The garment 1 can also be a dress, a suit, a suit, a jacket, a shirt or a blouse or parts of / or in those garments.

[046] Lyocell denim 2 comprises weft threads 4 and warp threads 6, which can be twisted. An example of warp and / or weft threads 6, 4 with at least one lyocell filament 8 is shown in Figure 2.

[047] An example of warp yarns and / or weft 6, 4 with at least one lyocell filament 8 is shown in Figure 2. Figure 3 shows a warped yarn and / or yarn 4, 6 with 3 layers with at least one lyocell filament. At least one of the filaments 8 is a lyocell filament. The twisted filament can have any number of filaments and any direction of twist. Preferably, at least 50% of the strands 4, 6 consist of lyocell filaments 8.

[048] To investigate the quality of lyocell filament denim according to the invention on silk, samples were prepared and compared with comparative examples made of denim consisting of / or containing cotton. For the denim, the bottom is the benchmark, against which any denim that uses artificial fibers or filaments must compete in the market. The lyocell filament denim samples of the invention are compared to comparative examples using the following tests:

TESTS

[049] - A Martindale abrasion test according to DIN EN ISO 12947-2;

[050] - A Martindale ball and lint test in accordance with DIN EN ISO 12945-2;

[051] - Wash shrinkage according to DIN EN ISO 5077;

[052] - washing shrinkage according to DIN EN ISO 5077; from the absolute values of the shrinkage in both directions of the sample, the sum was taken as a combined shrinkage;

[053] - Firmness to friction according to ISO 105 X12;

[054] - AATCC durable print classification, according to DIN EN ISO 15487;

[055] - Air permeability according to DIN EN ISO 9237;

[056] - Strength according to DIN EN 20105 - AO2;

[057] - Yarn resistance in the web and weft, in accordance with DIN EN ISO 2062;

[058] - Moisture recovery according to ASTMD 1909,

[059] - The brightness of the wires was determined at an angle of 45º, according to EN 14086 - 01/2003;

[060] - The brightness of the fabrics was determined at an angle of 75º, according to TAPPI T480.

[061] For the end consumer, it is important how the appearance of a fabric changes after washing. To assess this, the hairy, blistering and lint-like surface and fiber splice aspects were determined according to the following tests:

[062] The tests were performed by 3 people in a dark room, in which a Variolux "Multilight Datacolor" color evaluation cabinet with D65 natural light lamps was provided. The lamps were mounted on the top of the cabinet.

[063] To test the hairy aspect, the test sample was kept oblique by the test person and the hairy aspect was classified as best (grade 5, hairless) and worst (grade 1, long protruding fibers up to 2 mm).

[064] The number of ball formations (hairy knots on the fabric surface) was evaluated using reference samples (K3 or K2 meshes or W3 or W2 fabrics) of the EMPA SN 198525 standard, analogous to DIN EN ISO 12 945-2 . The reference samples are rated from 1 to 5 and are compared with the test samples. Grade 5 corresponds to a denim without lint balls. The more balls of lint on the surface of the test samples, the worse the grade. The worst score is 1.

[065] Fiber splice is created if fibriic fibers are moved to the surface by rubbing. Fibrilic fibers have brush-like ends and stand out if the rubbed sample is analyzed under a microscope. To measure the splice of the fiber, an SM microscope with an XHL eyepiece from UHL Technische Mikroskope was used. For a smooth surface that did not have fibrils, grade 5 was given. If there was a dense hair with long tips and curved fiber tips, which were partially detached from the surface, grade 1 was given.

[066] In all three tests, intermediate grades were possible.

[067] If the samples were subjected to washing, the washing was performed according to DIN EN ISO 6330. Tests to evaluate parameters in the dry state are carried out in the conditioned state 65/20. All standards mentioned in this application are included by reference in their entirety.

[068] The samples were prepared as follows. In this way, the weight was determined according to DIN EN 12127.

The counting of threads in the weft and in the warp was carried out according to DIN 53820-3.

[069] An overview of the material and properties of samples 1, 2, 3,5 and 6, which concern a denim with lyocell filaments and comparative samples 4 and 7, which concern the reference cotton, against the which samples 1,2, 3 5 and 65 are tested, is shown in Table 1. Samples 1,2,3,5e 6 and Comparative Samples 4 and 7

[070] Sample 1 was an 1857-A denim, in which the warp consisted of shiny, untwisted threads with dtex 500f300 that was made of lyocell filaments. The weft yarn consisted of cotton yarn with a Lycra T400 core. This resulted in a fabric with 70% lyocell yarn, 20% cotton, 8% elastomultiester and 2% elastane. The denim had a weight of 343 gm ?.

[071] Sample 2 was a 978-150-814 denim containing 33% lyocell filaments and 67% cotton. The weight was 148 gm? 2. The warp was made with Z cotton ring thread. The weft was made with 150f90 dtex thread.

[072] Sample 3 was an 1857-8 denim, in which the warp consisted of 100% shiny lyocell filament untwisted yarn, the yarn having a linear mass density of dtex 500f300. The weft was a 100% polyester yarn with an ELAS Lycra T400 core. Did this result in a 356 gm denim? and 70% lyocell, 28% polyester and 2% elastane.

[073] Sample 6 was an 1857-CNF denim containing 70% lyocell, 28% cotton and 2% elastane. The warp consisted of a lyocell filament yarn with 556 dtex. The weave was made from opaque cotton ring threads with an elastane core.

[074] Sample 5 was a 978-100-814 denim of 45% lyocell and 55% cotton. The warp consisted of the Ze cotton ring yarn and the weft consisted of the dtex 100f60 lyocell yarn. The material weight was 128 gm ?.

[075] Comparative Sample 4 was an 840-814 denim made of 59% cotton and 41% silk, where the warp yarn was made of cotton and the silk weft thread. This resulted in a denim with high softness and smoothness, and a shine. The weight was 171 gm ?.

[076] Comparative Sample 7 was denim 435-4047, composed of 98% cotton and 2% elastane. The warp was made of cotton ring yarn and cotton ring yarn weft with an opaque elastane core.

[077] Samples 1 to 3 and 6 were compared with comparative sample 7 regarding their washing properties, resistance to finishing agents, smoothness, smoothness and shine.

[078] Samples 2 and 5 were compared with comparative sample 4, to compare a lyocell warp denim against a cotton warp denim, as both had the same weft material.

[079] Samples and comparative samples were submitted to the following finishing steps. After each finishing step, samples and comparative examples were tested. Fixation

[080] First, samples 1, 3 and 4 and comparative samples 7 were fixed for 45 seconds at 195ºC and then tested. The results of these tests are summarized in Table 2. Clothing washing

[081] Samples 1, 2, 3, 5.6 and comparative samples 4 and 7 were washed clothes as follows.

[082] The formation of fibrils was carried out with a proportion of liquor of 1:60 with 2.5 kg of tissue and 150 | of liquor at 22 RPM for 20 minutes at 60ºC with maximum heating rate at 2 g / Il Persoftal

L, 2 g / l sodium bicarbonate and 0.3 g / l Lavasperse KDS concentrate.

[083] Then, the liquor was cooled to 40ºC and rinsed cold with 300 |, then rinsed hot with 150 | for 5 minutes at 50ºC, where heating started right at the beginning of the rinse and then rinsed cold again with 300 |

[084] After rinsing, the enzymatic wash was carried out in a 1:60 liquor ratio again with 2.5 kg of fabric and 150 | of liquor at 22 RPM. The liquor contained 2 g / l of Persoftal L, 3 g / l of Peristal E and 0.3 g / |! of Lavasperse KDS concentrate. The pH value was controlled to be between pH 4.5-5. After heating to 55ºC at the maximum heating rate, the pH value was checked. At pH 5.5, 2 g / l of Perizym 2000 were added before adding the enzyme and then the material was processed at 55ºC for 55 minutes. Then the material was heated to 85ºC and treated at 85ºC for minutes.

[085] The liquor was then drained and the material washed as follows: first cold rinse with 300 | and then hot rinse with 150 |, where the heating started with the completion of the second rinse step. The hot wash continued for 5 minutes at 50ºC. Finally, the cold rinse occurred with 300 |.

[086] The renovation took place in a 1:60 liquor ratio as above, using Tubingal RGH 2%, Tubingal RWM 1%, 3g9 / l of Peristal E at 15 minutes and 40ºC after heating at the maximum rate.

[087] The liquor was then drained and the material was drum dried in the machine for 50 minutes at 80ºC and then allowed to cool for 20 minutes.

[088] After that, samples and comparative examples were tested as described above. The results are summarized in Table 3.

Strong Bleach

[089] For a final series of tests, samples 1,2, 3,5,6 and comparative samples 4 and 7 were targeted as follows:

[090] The prewash occurred in a 1:60 proportion of liquor with 2.5 kg of fabric and 150 L of liquor. For the prewash, 2 g / l of Persoftal L, 0.5 g / l of 100% NaOH (1 g / l of 50% NaOH) and 0.2 g / Il of Lava Sperse KDS concentrate were used. The pre-wash was carried out for 20 minutes at 60ºC (maximum heating rate).

[091] After that, it was cooled to 40ºC and then rinsed cold with 300 |

[092] Bleaching occurred at a liquor ratio of 1:60 and RPM, cold, for 30 minutes, again with 2.5 kg of fabrics and 150 | of liquor containing 2 g / l of sodium bicarbonate and 0.4 g / l of Lava Sperse KDS concentrate. The pH value was checked and maintained at pH 10. As a bleaching agent, 3 g / l of active chlorine were used (bleach solution of 20 ml / l, 150 9/1).

[093] The liquor was then drained and the material was cold washed with 300 | and hot washed with 150 | as above.

[094] Dechlorination was performed with 2 ml / l of 50% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes at 40ºC.

[095] Then, cold rinse was performed with 300 |, hot rinse with 150 | for 5 minutes at 50ºC (heating started with the rinse) and cold rinse with 300 |

[096] Then, enzymatic washing, followed by rinsing, recovery and drum drying, occurred as follows:

[097] After rinsing, enzymatic washing was carried out in a 1:60 liquor ratio again with 2.5 kg of fabric and 150 | of liquor at 22 RPM. The liquor contained 2 g / l of Persoftal L, 3 g / l of Peristal E and 0.3 g / l of Lavasperse KDS concentrate. The pH value was maintained between pH 4.5-5. After heating to 55ºC at the maximum heating rate, the pH value was checked, before adding the enzyme and the material was processed at 55ºC for 55 minutes. Then the material was heated to 85ºC and treated at 85ºC for 15 minutes.

[098] The liquor was then drained and the material washed as follows: First cold rinse with 300 | and then hot rinse with 150 |, where the heating started with the completion of the second rinse step. The hot rinse continued for 5 minutes at 50ºC. Finally, the cold rinse occurred with 300 |.

[099] The renovation took place in a 1:60 liquor ratio as above, using Tubingal RGH at 2%, Tubingal RWM at 1%, 3g / l of Peristal E at 15 minutes and 40ºC after heating at the maximum rate.

[0100] After that, samples and comparative examples were tested as above. The results of these tests are summarized in Table 4. Results

[0101] From Tables 1 to 4, the following is evident: Comparing samples 2 and 5 with comparative sample 4, the toughness of the lyocell filament, both wet and dry, according to the invention, is significantly greater than the tenacity of the silk denim in the comparative sample 4. In addition, the strength and elongation of the yarn, both dry and wet, are higher in all lyocell filaments, compared to cotton buds with non-lyocell filaments , as exemplified in comparative sample 4 and 7.

[0102] Furthermore, lyocell filament denim - like cotton - has been shown to withstand even aggressive finishing agents, such as chlorine-based bleach that destroys silk.

[0103] With regard to the formation of lint balls, hair and the joining of fibers, lyocell filament denim is at least comparable, if not better, to a degree than cotton denim before and after washing and after bleaching. In addition, lyocell filaments are not subject to the formation of fibrils that occurs with cotton after washing.

[0104] Although cotton still has greater thread resistance before and after washing the garment and after bleaching, the thread resistance of the lyocell filament denim of the invention is still very good. In particular, the strength of the lyocell filament denim yarn is combined with shine, softness and smoothness that are superior to cotton denim and can only be achieved with a denim containing silk. However, the latter cannot be bleached.

[0105] This is clear from the following tests, in which softness and smoothness are analyzed using the TSA Tissue Software Analyzer (TSA Test), a Handle-O-Meter and a panel for manual sensation. The TSA Test

[0106] The TSA test was performed to verify that the tactile qualities of the lyocell filament denim of samples 1 to 5 are at least equal, if not superior to the tactile qualities of the silk denim of the comparative sample 4.

[0107] The two predominant tactile qualities that are enhanced by the use of silk on denim are softness and smoothness. To objectively assess these characteristics, the TSA test was performed.

[0108] The TSA test is described in Schlofter et al., "Griffbeurteilung von Textilien mittels Schallanalyse", Meilland Textilberichte, 1/2102, p. 43-45, in the emtec Gruner publication, "A new and objective measurement technique for analyzing tissue softness" (2012), in the TSA Operating Instructions, and in "Neue und Objektive Messtechnik fur Softness-Analyze" in the avr report -Allgemeiner Vliesstoff 5/2015, p. 99-

101. Originally developed to measure the softness and smoothness of fabrics and non-fabrics using sound spectra, it has been adapted to also assess the softness and smoothness of fabrics.

[0109] The TSA test was performed using a TSA Tissue Softness Analyzer device from emtec electronics GmbH, Leipzig, Germany, and the ESM software that ships with TSA. TSA measures a sound spectrum that results from the pressure and rotation of a star-shaped body against a sample tissue with a defined force. For testing, the fabric is fastened around its perimeter and not otherwise supported, in particular in front of the rotating body. In the TSA test performed here, the software and its evaluation algorithm were not used. Instead, the sound pressure measured by TSA at 7 kHz (TS7) was taken as an objective indirect measure of smoothness and the sound pressure at 750 Hz (TS750) in the sound spectrum measured by TSA was taken as an objective indirect measure of smoothness . The sound pressure is automatically supplied by the TSA 10 as dB V2 rms, where V is the rotation speed of the rotating body. The use of these values directly avoided any problems that may have arisen due to the EMS algorithm being developed for fabrics, and for non-fabrics. A total of four probes were subjected to the TSA test for each sample.

[0110] For the test, a tissue sample of 11 cm in diameter was fixed as required by the TSA device and tested without stretching.

[0111] Lower values of TS7 indicate greater smoothness and lower values of TS750 indicate greater smoothness value. Handle-O-Meter Tests

[0112] Handle-O-Meter tests were performed using a Handle-O-Meter test device from Thwing-Albert Instrument Company, West Berlin, NJ, USA. The sample size was cm x 10 cm. The 1/4 inch slot was used with a 1,000 g beam and a stainless steel surface. The tests were performed on cond samples. 65/20.

[0113] In both TSA and Handle-O-Meter tests, only the outer right side of the denim was considered. The results are summarized in Table 5.

[0114] As a result, the Handle-O-Meter delivers two force measurements assigned to two orthogonal directions, an MD machine direction that in the chosen configuration corresponded to the warp direction and a cross direction CD in the chosen configuration corresponded to the direction of the plot. These forces are correlated to the stiffness and smoothness of the tested surface. The strength is normalized to the total weight of the test sample, resulting in a specific hand in mMN m? 2, therefore 9-1.

[0115] From Table 5, it appears that the cotton denim from comparative sample 7 is inferior in relation to softness to samples 1, 3 and 6. Although these lyocell filament denim are more rigid than cotton denim, according to comparative sample 7 before washing clothes is softer than comparative sample 7 after washing clothes.

[0116] The silk denim of comparative sample 4 is less smooth than samples 2 and 5, in which endless lyocell filaments are used in the weave instead of silk. In addition, the lyocell filament denim is softer than the silk denim of comparative sample 4 before finishing. After finishing, the softness of samples 2 and 5 corresponds to the softness of comparative sample 4.

[0117] Thus, it can be concluded from the TSA and Handle-O-Meter tests that the lyocell filament denim according to the invention in fact combines superior softness and smoothness with the ability to be bleached. In addition, lyocell filament denim has high toughness. This combination results in a new class of denim fabrics.

[0118] Panel for Manual Sensation.

[0119] To verify the results of the TSA and Handle-O-Meter tests, a manual sensation panel was used. The panel was made up of ten independent textile experts. The task of the panel was to objectively evaluate the touch of lyocell filament denim according to the invention in comparison with the comparative examples.

[0120] To obtain reproducible results independently from the panel members, the manual sensation panel operated as follows:

[0121] All samples to be tested by the manual feel panel were supplied in 17 cm x 17 cm format and glued to carbon using double-sided adhesive tape approximately 2 cm from the edge at the top edge. The fabric sample was glued to the cardboard on the right side, with the warp facing forward. It was oriented in such a way that the weft direction was horizontal and the warp direction was vertical.

[0122] To evaluate the manual sensation, a semantic grid was defined providing contrasting pairs of descriptive adjectives to describe the manual sensation. The term of the contrasting pairs that corresponded to the desired quality is considered "best". Thus, for a fabric where softness was a desired quality, higher grades will be given than for the opposite quantity, roughness. The grades ranged from 1 (worst) to 10 (best).

[0123] In addition, it was prescribed how the evaluation should be made, for example, prescribing the movement of the hand over the fabric to assess the softness.

[0124] Reference sample fabrics of the same type of construction (fabric) with the closest possible construction parameters and, at the same time, significant differences in hand feel were predefined for each word pair. For example, a fabric considered to have a roughness of reference and a fabric being considered to have a softness of reference have been provided to the hand feel panel.

[0125] The notes for the respective reference tissues were set at 2 and 8, respectively. Thus, the reference fabric for the worst quality of a word pair had, by definition, a grade 2 and the reference fabric for the best quality of a word pair, a grade 8. The assignment of grades 2 and 8, respectively , allowed to expand the scale during the test if materials with a better or worse quality than the two reference materials were found. Thus, the reference material for roughness was defined to have a grade of 2 and the reference material for smoothness was defined to have a grade of 8 on the roughness-smoothness scale. All other materials that were tested had to be classified by the manual feel panel in relation to the reference material.

[0126] To test the denim samples, the following semantic grid was used: - to evaluate the touch: cotton type (note 2) and silk type (note 8); - to assess consistency: loose (grade 2) and compact (grade 8); - to assess the sensation of wear: rigid (note 2) and flexible (note 8); - to assess the surface: rough (note 2); and smooth (note 8).

[0127] As a reference material for note 2, comparative sample 7 was used. As a reference material for note 8, comparative sample 4 was used for all word pairs.

[0128] The panel was instructed to evaluate the above characteristics, as follows:

[0129] - To evaluate the touch, the sample card had to be picked up with one hand and the fabric was allowed to be folded. Then, the members of the manual feeling panel were asked to hold the hanging fabric, so that the right side (face of the warp) of the denim touched the palm of the hand.

[0130] - Consistency describes whether the fabric feels like it has a more open or dense weave. The sample card was placed on the table in front of the individual members of the hand feel panel. The fabric was picked up with both hands, kneading and stretching the fabric.

[0131] - The feeling of wear is determined by lifting the sample card again with one hand and allowing the fabric to fold. The sample card is then shaken to assess the pattern of falling tissue. Then, the tissue is grabbed by the free hand for further evaluation.

[0132] - Finally, to judge the sensation of the surface, the cardboard lying on a table. The warped surface was assessed by moving the palm of the hand in the direction of the warp and in the direction of the weft.

[0133] For each sample fabric and each word pair, the mean and deviation from the mean was calculated through the assessments of the individual members of the manual sensation panel. The mean was used to evaluate and classify the samples. A summary of the results is shown in Table 6. Brightness

[0134] The brightness of individual threads usable in a lyocell denim according to the invention was measured using a gloss meter. The results in% of reflection of the incident light are presented in Table 7. To measure the brightness of the wires, they were wrapped in cardboard and the brightness was measured according to EN 14086-01 / 2003 at 45º. The brightness of the fabrics was determined according to TAPPI T480 at 75º. The viewing angle was directed along the wire direction to measure the brightness of the wire.

[0135] Samples 1, 3, 7, 8 were yarns made of 100% shiny lyocell filaments with the linear mass densities shown in Table 7.

[0136] Samples 2, 4, 5, 6 are comparative samples.

[0137] Sample 3 was much brighter than all other samples and comparative examples. The brightness of samples 1 and 6 was comparable to the brim of comparative sample 7, containing silk.

[0138] The brightness of the thread usable for the denim reflected at least 20%.

[0139] Thus, it can be concluded that the lyocell filament denim of the invention also combines a superior gloss with resistance against aggressive finishing agents.

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AND & &

Table 6 - Tests of the Fixed Manual Sensation Panel Washed Clothes Strong Bleach

Comparative Sample 7

Touch: cotton / silk type 2.9 3.2 2.8

Consistency: loose / compact 5.3 5.2 5.6

Feeling when dressing: rigid / flexible 6.0 5.0 5.3

Surface: rough / smooth 3.0 3.3 3.7 Comparative Sample 4

Touch: cotton / silk type 5.7 7.2 -

Consistency: loose / compact 71 6.1 -

Feeling when dressing: rigid / flexible 4.4 7.8 o

Surface: rough / smooth 78 7.5 o Sample 6

Touch: cotton / silk type 41 4.4 5.1

Consistency: loose / compact 6.0 5.9 6.3

Feeling when dressing: rigid / flexible 4.2 5.9 5.9

Surface: rough / smooth 3.3 5.8 6.3 Sample 1

Touch: cotton type / silk type 4.1 5.0 5.3

Consistency: loose / compact 77 6.5 6.7

Feeling when dressing: rigid / flexible 2.6 6.7 5.6

Surface: rough / smooth 5.0 5.9 6.2 Sample 2

Touch: cotton / silk type 7.5 7.2 77

Consistency: loose / compact 6.2 6.0 6.3

Feeling when dressing: rigid / flexible 7.5 7.8 7.9

Surface: rough / smooth 7.8 7.2 7.6 Sample 3

Touch: cotton type / silk type 5.7 5.0 5.5

Consistency: loose / compact 6.4 6.2 6.0

Feeling when dressing: rigid / flexible 5.5 6.8 6.7

Surface: rough / smooth 5.6 5.3 6.6 Sample 5

Touch: cotton / silk type 8.0 7.8 7.6

Consistency: loose / compact 6.3 6.0 5.9

Feeling when dressing: rigid / flexible 77 7.9 7.6

Surface: rough / smooth 8.0 7.83 7.6

Table 7 - Brightness Brightness Sample No. Yarn% Sample Brightness 1 26.10 40 dtex f30 bright (single filament 1.3 dtex) Sample Brightness 2 22.32 56 dtex f30 bright (single filament 1.8 dtex) Cupro Sample Brightness 3 28 , 19 80 dtex f60 brilliant (single filament 1.3 dtex) Sample Brightness 4 23,10. 84 dtex f45 bright (single filament 1.8 dtex) Cupro Sample Brightness 5º 7.89 84 dtex f24 bright (single filament 3.5 dtex) viscose Sample Brightness 6 8.49 110 dtex f40 bright (single filament 2.8 dtex) viscose Sample Brightness 7 21.32 300 dtex f180 bright (single filament 1.6 dtex) Sample Brightness 8 16.32 500 dtex f300 bright (single filament 1.6 dtex)

Claims (14)

1. Lyocell denim (2) made from weft threads (4) and warp threads (6), characterized by the fact that at least one of the weft threads (4) and the warp threads (6) contain or consist of lyocell filaments (8). 2. Lyocell denim, according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the denim is bleached. 3. Lyocell denim, according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by the fact that the denim has a TS7 value not exceeding 6 in a TSA test in the fixed state and / or after washing the clothes and / or after bleaching. 4. Lyocell denim according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by the fact that the denim has a TS750 value not exceeding 100 in the fixed state and / or after washing the clothes and / or after bleaching . Lyocell denim according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the yarn resistance of the yarns containing or consisting of lyocell is at least 25 cN / tex after fixation and / or at least minus 4.5 cN / tex after washing the garment and / or at least 2 cN / tex after bleaching. 6. Lyocell denim according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the denim marks at least one in at least 15,000 cycles for the formation of holes in a Martindale abrasion test in the fixed state and 8,000 cycles for the formation of holes in a Martindale abrasion test after washing the garment and / or after bleaching. 7. Lyocell denim according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the warp face of the denim has a degree of ball formation of not less than 5 in the fixed state and / or not less than 5 after the washing of the garment and not less than 5 after bleaching in a Martindale ball formation test. Lyocell denim according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the elongation of the yarn of at least one of the warp and weft yarns containing the lyocell filaments is at least 4% after fixing and / or at least 2% after washing the garment and / or at least 1% after bleaching. 9. Lyocell denim according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized by the fact that the denim on the warp face has a degree of hairiness of not less than 4 after washing the garment and not less than 3 after washing bleaching. 10. Lyocell denim according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized by the fact that the denim fiber seam has a grade of not less than 4 before and / or after fixing and / or not less than 4, 5 after washing the garment and / or not less than 4.5 after bleaching. 11. Lyocell denim according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by the fact that the specific hand in the direction of the warp and / or weft threads that combine or consist of lyocell filaments is at least 4 mN m? g after washing the garment and / or at least 3 mN m? g 'after bleaching Lyocell denim according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the yarn consisting of or containing lyocell filaments (8) has a gloss of at least 20% reflection. 13. Piece of clothing, characterized by the fact that it contains or consists of a denim with lyocell, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12. 14. Use of a thread, characterized by the fact that it contains or consists of lyocell filaments in a denim fabric. There: It is 4h. EE, ES; "RIO 2 Flo E 4 SS 24 PIO Es 6 ok?