RU2745811C1 - Knitted fabrics from continuous lyocell fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: textile.

SUBSTANCE: present invention relates to a knitted fabric. There is a need for knitted fabrics that provide wearing comfort and have good wash stability and high softness. Good washing stability implies both dimensional stability of the fabric and the retention of positive characteristics of the surface appearance, such as the absence of hairiness, rolling into knots and weaving of fibers, even after several washes. This problem is solved by a knitted fabric according to the present invention, made from at least one thread, which consists of lyocell fibers or contains them.

EFFECT: resulting fabric provides high wearing comfort and excellent mechanical properties.

14 cl, 5 tbl

Description

The present invention relates to knitted fabrics containing at least one thread, which consists of continuous fibers or contains them.

In the case of a knitted fabric, this fabric is formed by at least one thread that is intertwined in loops. This is in contrast to woven fabric, where two different threads are intertwined, representing the warp and weft threads.

Man-made continuous filaments are widely used in the textile industry to produce fabrics that have distinctive characteristics over fabrics made from staple filaments. A continuous filament is a filament in which all filaments run continuously along the entire length of the filament. A continuous filament typically contains 20 to 200 or more individual filaments (technically continuous filaments), all of which are parallel to each other and to the filament axis during production. The yarn is made by extrusion of a solution or melt of a polymer or a polymer derivative, and then the produced yarn is wound on a bobbin or bobbin, or a coil is obtained by centrifugal winding. The thread can be twisted or twisted, which changes its characteristics.

Filaments made of continuous synthetic polymer fibers are also common. For example, continuous nylon, polyester and polypropylene filaments are used in a wide variety of webs. They are made from a melt by spinning a molten polymer through a spinning mechanism having a number of holes corresponding to the required number of fibers in the yarn to be produced. After the molten polymer begins to solidify, the filament can be pulled to orient the polymer molecules and improve the properties of the filament.

Continuous filaments can also be spun from cellulose derivatives such as cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate by dry spinning. The polymer is dissolved in a suitable solvent and then extruded through a spinning machine. The solvent quickly evaporates after extrusion, causing the polymer to precipitate in the form of a filament. The newly made thread can be stretched to orient the polymer molecules.

In addition, continuous filaments can be made from cellulose using the rayon process. Cellulose is converted to cellulose xanthate by reaction with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, and then dissolved in sodium hydroxide solution. The cellulose solution, commonly called rayon, is extruded through a spinning machine into an acid bath. Sodium hydroxide is neutralized causing cellulose to precipitate. In this case, cellulose xanthate is converted back to cellulose through reaction with an acid. The newly formed fiber is stretched to orient the cellulose molecules, washed to remove reagents from the fiber, and then dried and wound onto a bobbin. In early versions of this process, the wet yarn was collected into a skein using a spinning wheel such as the Tofama system. The coil of yarn is then oven dried before being wound onto a bobbin.

Continuous cellulose filaments are also made using the copper-ammonia process. Cellulose is dissolved in a solution of copper ammonia complex hydroxide. The resulting solution is extruded into a water bath where the ammonia copper hydroxide is diluted and cellulose is precipitated. The resulting yarn is washed, dried and wound onto a bobbin.

A yarn of cellulose continuous fibers, made using a viscose or copper-ammonia method, can be turned into fabrics by a knitted method. Applications for continuous cellulose fiber knitted fabrics include women's underwear, undergarments, hosiery, and women's blouses and shirts.

Knitted fabrics made from filaments containing continuous cellulose fibers can have a high gloss. They have good moisture control properties, which improves user comfort. They do not generate static electricity as easily as canvases made from continuous synthetic filaments.

Webs made using currently available continuous cellulosic filaments generally have poor physical properties. Dry strength and tensile strength are unsatisfactory compared to webs made from synthetic polymers such as polyester. The wet strength is significantly less than the dry strength due to the interaction between cellulose and water. The abrasion resistance is low. Interaction with water also softens the cellulose, resulting in webs made from such filament, which are unstable when wet.

Due to these disadvantages, knitted fabrics, which were originally made using continuous cellulosic filaments, are now made mainly using continuous synthetic polymer filaments such as polyester and nylon fibers.

However, synthetic threads still have certain disadvantages. Webs made with them do not have the same moisture control properties as webs made with cellulose filaments. Synthetic fabrics can generate static electricity. Some users find clothing made with synthetic fibers to be significantly less comfortable to wear compared to fabrics containing cellulose.

There is a need for knitted fabrics that provide wearing comfort and also have good wash stability and high softness. Good wash stability implies the simultaneous dimensional stability of the fabric and the retention of an attractive surface appearance, including the absence of lint, knotting and fiber interlacing even after several washes.

This problem is solved by a knitted fabric according to the present invention, made from at least one yarn, which consists of lyocell fibers or contains them.

It has surprisingly been found that knitted fabrics can be made from yarns containing continuous lyocell fibers, and that such knitted fabrics have physical properties significantly superior to fabrics made from continuous rayon or copper-ammonia fibers. In addition, it has surprisingly been found that lyocell webs can have gloss, moisture control properties and low static electricity production, which are the desirable characteristics of continuous rayon and copper-ammonia webs. The wash fastness of a knitted fabric containing at least one lyocell fiber yarn is excellent compared to fabrics using synthetic, woolen and / or silk fibers.

Lyocell is the generic name given to a type of cellulosic man-made fiber made by a direct dissolution process. The lyocell process is described, for example, in documents US 4,246,221 and WO 93/19230.

A pulp suspension is prepared using an aqueous amine oxide solution. The water is then evaporated from the slurry in a thin film flash tank. When the water level falls below a certain level, cellulose forms a solution in amine oxide. The resulting viscous liquid solidifies at temperatures below about 70 ° C to form a glassy solid. If the liquid is kept above this temperature, it can be pumped through a spinning mechanism to form fibers, which are then immediately immersed in water where dilution of the amine oxide causes the cellulose to precipitate.

The lyocell process can be used to make filaments from continuous lyocell fibers. The spinning mechanism used to extrude the cellulose amine oxide solution has a number of holes corresponding to the required number of fibers in the continuous filaments. After extrusion, the newly made filament is washed with water in a countercurrent mode to remove amine oxide. This rinsing can be carried out on movable spools, which are supplied with water to rinse the fibers. For further processing, a sizing agent can be applied, after which the thread is dried. The washed and dried thread is wound on a bobbin.

In the lyocell process, cellulose in the form of wood pulp is the only raw material used. The wood pulp used comes from permanently regenerated commercial forests. The fibers produced are 100% cellulose and are the only product of the manufacturing process. The amine oxide solvent is recovered from the wash water and reused to produce the following fibers. The degree of this regeneration can be very high, up to 99.7%. As a result, the environmental impact of the lyocell process is very low. There are virtually no emissions of gaseous or liquid substances in this process, and there is no solvent in the fiber produced.

On the other hand, the viscose process uses carbon disulfide, sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid and zinc sulfate. This process can release hydrogen sulphide and carbon disulfide unless significant precautions are taken. Sodium sulfate is obtained as a by-product of this process.

In the copper-ammonia process, there is a risk of the release of copper compounds into the environment with subsequent adverse effects.

Fiber made using the Lyocell process has significantly higher tensile strength than fiber made using the rayon process. As a result, webs can be obtained having improved stability, tear strength and abrasion resistance.

The web of the present invention can be further improved by the following features, all of which are independent of each other.

The continuous lyocell filaments used to make the articles of the present invention can be freshly produced filaments in an untwisted state, or they can be twisted by rewinding. The thread can be a double thread. It can be combined with another continuous filament or staple filament by twisting the filaments together or by weaving using, for example, an air jet.

The twist ratio of the lyocell fiber yarn can be between 0 and 3500 kr / m. In particular, it can be at least 1000 cr / m or at least 2000 cr / m if special surface effects are desired.

The knitted fabric according to the present invention preferably has good washing fastness, in particular low shrinkage. This is a unique property of a yarn consisting of lyocell fibers, or preferably containing at least 10% or at least 25% lyocell fibers. Due to the low shrinkage of the lyocell fiber yarn, yarns having 0 cr / m or very low twist rates, for example below 100 cr / m, can be used without compromising the wash stability.

In one embodiment, the total shrinkage, i. E. the sum of the absolute values of shrinkage in two perpendicular directions for a twist ratio from 0 cr / m to 700 cr / m can be less than 12% or even less than 5% after one and / or five washes. For blends of lyocell fibers containing at least 3%, preferably 5 to 10% elastane and / or synthetic fibers or fibers containing at least 10%, preferably 30 to 50% polyester or polyamide have a total shrinkage, a component of less than 5% or even less than 2%.

The knitted fabric according to the present invention has very good surface qualities. Knitted fabric containing at least one yarn of lyocell fiber, i. E. lyocell fiber filament, can withstand at least 40,000 cycles, preferably more than 100,000 cycles, before hole formation and / or before breakage before and after the first wash in the Martindale abrasion test, in particular when synthetic fibers are mixed with the lyocell fiber, constituting a minimum 30% and preferably 50%.

The lyocell denim according to the present invention preferably contains at least 10% lyocell fibers in at least one of the weft and warp threads. Preferably, the minimum total content of lyocell fibers in lyocell denim is greater than 10%. Content of more than 10% can significantly improve the tactile properties of the fabric, provided by the soft structure of the yarn containing or consisting of lyocell fibers. Therefore, a total lyocell content of at least 10% already provides a tactile effect, regardless of whether the lyocell fiber is used in the warp or weft yarn. In addition, the strength of the yarn improves the mixing of at least 10% of lyocell fibers with other synthetic or cellulose fibers, for example, with rayon or copper-ammonia fibers, or with viscose or copper-ammonia staple fibers, or wool and cotton fibers. Finally, the breathability and moisture control of the web is significant. Improves blending of at least 10% lyocell fibers and synthetic fibers.

Residual moisture, which is measured according to ASTM D 1909, is a measure of the comfort level of the web. The silkworm silk has a residual moisture content of 11% and provides one of the best comfort levels of all fabrics in terms of residual moisture. Testing of lyocell fiber shows a residual moisture of 13%, and thus a similar or higher level of comfort can be expected than that provided by silkworm silk.

Another advantage of lyocell knitted fabric is its ability to withstand even aggressive processing agents such as chlorine bleach. It has been found that the use of such processing reagents can even increase the softness of the lyocell knitted fabric.

The loss of wet strength in the case of lyocell fibers is significantly less than for viscose fibers. This means that deformation of the Lyocell webs in the wet state is more difficult, which gives the web stability. In addition, Lyocell fabrics are more durable when wet than equivalent rayon fabrics.

Webs made with continuous lyocell filaments can have the appearance and aesthetic properties of webs made with continuous rayon filaments, but have surprisingly good physical properties.

For example, a knitted fabric according to the present invention may have a score of no worse than 3, in particular 4 in the Martindale knot test after 1000 cycles and / or no worse than 3.5 after 2000 cycles in the initial state and / or after the first washing

The lint of the knitted fabric according to the present invention can have a rating of no worse than 3 in the initial state and / or after one wash and / or after five washes.

The spirality of the knitted fabric of the present invention measured over 50 cm can be less than 20 mm after one wash and less than 25 mm after five washes. The spirality can be influenced by the dressing, as well as the elastane content of the fabric.

Articles according to the present invention include articles made using filament of lyocell continuous fibers immediately after manufacture or after further processing. Products include, but are not limited to, knitted fabrics made with flat knitting machines, single cylinder circular knitting machines, double cylinder circular knitting machines, and warp knitting machines. Any machine that produces knitted fabric using continuous lyocell yarn, alone or in combination with other yarns, can be used.

The articles of the present invention are characterized by the superior physical properties that can be achieved with continuous lyocell filaments over other continuous cellulosic filaments.

The continuous lyocell filament used to make the articles of the present invention can be a freshly made filament in an untwisted state, or it can be twisted by rewinding. The thread can be a double thread. It can be combined with another continuous filament or staple filament by twisting the filaments together or by weaving using, for example, an air jet.

Knitted fabrics can be made using continuous lyocell filament by any knitting technology used in the textile industry. They can be made using single or double round knitting, flat knitting, warp knitting, or tie knitting.

The webs can be made using continuous lyocell knitted yarns while knitting other yarns on the same machine. The yarns can be fed into the machine through the same feeder to produce the same yarns in each knit loop. The yarns can be fed into the machine through separate feeders to produce different combinations of yarns in adjacent stitch rows or ribs.

Knitted fabrics made with continuous lyocell yarns, alone or in combination with other yarns, can have similar aesthetic properties and appearance to fabrics made with continuous rayon filaments, but have significantly improved physical properties. Higher tensile strength and modulus values for continuous lyocell yarn result in improved web performance in terms of tear strength, abrasion resistance and stability. In addition, the web has excellent wet properties.

For example, a knitted fabric made using continuous lyocell yarn has a similar gloss, feel and appearance to a knitted fabric having the same basis weight and structure and made using continuous rayon fiber. However, lyocell fabric has significantly improved properties.

Webs made from continuous lyocell filaments can be dyed and finished using any of the dyeing methods commonly used for dyeing and finishing cellulosic webs. They can be colored using reactive, vat, direct or sulfur dyes.

Continuous lyocell webs can be rope dyed, spread dyed or batch dyed. Care should be taken to ensure that the surface of the web is not deformed or damaged during painting, and appropriate equipment should be used. It is well known that lyocell webs can be subjected to fibrillonium during wet processing. Short fibrils can form on surfaces where wet abrasion occurs. Measures should be taken to control this fibrillation by allowing it to occur in a uniform and controlled manner or by completely preventing the occurrence of fibrillation. Spread dyeing and batch dyeing are known methods for preventing the occurrence of fibrillation.

The knitted fabric of the present invention may be resin-finished and / or mechanically polished and / or a peach-skin effect may be imparted to the fabric. Such a web has an excellent surface appearance.

Fibrillation can be used to produce a peach skin effect web by using a continuous lyocell filament. For example, if the web is dyed in an air jet dyeing machine, where the surface of the web is subjected to uniform wet abrasion, it will be provided with a smooth and attractive fibrillated surface.

Continuous lyocell webs can be finished with resin to prevent fibrillation during use and during washing. Resin finishing also improves the stability properties of the web and makes it easier to maintain. The resin size crosslinks the cellulose molecules and prevents them from splitting from each other when the web is subjected to wet abrasion.

Fibrillation can also be prevented by the use of certain dyes containing more than one reactive group per dye molecule. These colorants cross-link the cellulose in the same manner as resin sizing and thus prevent fibrillation of the fibers during wet abrasion.

Knitted fabrics made with continuous lyocell filaments can be used for any application where fabrics made with continuous rayon or copper-ammonia filaments have been or are currently being used. They can also be used for other applications where webs made with continuous rayon or copper-ammonia filaments do not have sufficient properties to provide the required performance characteristics.

The knitted fabric of the present invention may be jersey.

Knitted fabrics made with continuous lyocell yarn can be used to make outerwear, hosiery, women's underwear and underwear.

It will be appreciated by those skilled in the textile art that webs and other articles can be made from combinations, combinations, or blends of continuous lyocell filaments with other filaments and fibers. In the textile industry, it is common practice to blend yarns into a fabric to take advantage of the properties of the components. For example, a knitted fabric can be made by combining continuous lyocell yarn and elastane yarn on a circular knitting machine. The resulting web will have the characteristics of both constituent yarns. For example, the presence of an elastane thread will impart stretch and recovery properties to the web that 100% lyocell web does not exhibit.

Knitwear is a fashionable garment that should be available in a variety of forms and with a variety of tactile qualities. Thus, it is advantageous that the lyocell fibers allow the knitted fabric of the present invention to be made from a wide variety of combinations, combinations or blends of continuous lyocell fibers with continuous and staple fibers and yarns made from other synthetic, natural or cellulosic materials. It is intended to include within the scope of the present invention, in particular, any knitted fabric or article in which the main component is continuous lyocell fiber.

The present invention also relates to the use of yarn containing or consisting of lyocell fibers in a knitted fabric.

RESEARCH

• Abrasion test according to Martindale according to DIN EN ISO 12947-2;

• test for rolling into knots according to Martindale according to DIN EN ISO 12945-2;

• shrinkage during washing according to DIN EN ISO 5077; from the absolute values of shrinkage in both directions of the samples, the sum is calculated, which is the total shrinkage;

• resistance to friction according to ISO 105 X12;

• crease resistance index, determined by the Association of Chemists and Colorists of the US Textile Industry (AATCC) according to DIN EN ISO 15487;

• breathability according to DIN EN ISO 9237;

• wear resistance according to DIN EN 20105-A02;

• strength of warp and weft thread according to DIN EN ISO 2062.

• residual moisture according to ASTMD 1909;

• gloss of threads, determined at an angle of 45 ° according to EN 14086-01 / 2003; and

• The gloss of the webs measured at a 75 ° angle according to TAPPI T480.

It is important for the end consumer how the appearance of the linen will change after washing. To evaluate this surface appearance, hairiness, knotting and fiber interlacing were determined using the following methods:

The studies were carried out by three researchers in a dark room in which a Multilight Datacolor unit containing Variolux D65 fluorescent lamps was installed. The lamps were installed on the top of the unit.

To study hairiness, the test specimen was placed in an inclined position in relation to the investigator, who determined the hairiness from the best (score 5, no hairiness) to the worst (score 1, long protruding fibers up to 2 mm).

The number of knots rolled (puffs on the surface of the fabric) was determined using standard samples (knitted fabrics K3 or K2 or woven fabrics W3 or W2) according to the Swiss Federal Laboratory for Materials Science (EMPA) SN 198525, similar to DIN EN ISO 12 945-2. Standard samples were evaluated on a scale from 1 to 5 and compared with the test samples. A score of 5 corresponds to denim that does not roll into knots. The greater the degree of rolling into nodules on the surface, the lower the assessment is obtained for the test samples. The worst estimate is 1.

Fiber entanglement occurs when fibrillated fibers move across the surface under the action of cleaning. Fibrillated fibers are cyst-like, protruding ends when viewed under a microscope for a cleaned sample. An SM microscope with an X10 eyepiece from UHL Technische Mikroskope was used to measure fiber plexus. A smooth surface that is free of fibrillated fibers meets a score of 5. If there was dense fluff of long, curved fiber ends that were partially detached from the surface, a score of 1 was scored.

Interim estimates are possible in all three studies.

If the samples were washed, the washing was carried out according to DIN EN ISO 6330. The dry tests were carried out under 20/65 conditioned conditions. All standards mentioned in this application are incorporated in their entirety in this document by reference.

Samples were made as follows. Here, areal density was determined according to DIN EN 12127. The number of fibers in the weft and warp threads was determined according to DIN 53820-3.

Spirality was determined by measuring the deviation from the loop row in millimeters at a distance of 50 cm from the original position.

All standards mentioned in this application are incorporated in their entirety by reference.

The samples were made as follows.

Samples

The materials and characteristics of Samples 1-9 of the single fiber jersey blends are summarized in Tables 1a and 1b.

These samples demonstrate combinations of different fibers in the yarns, as well as the positive effect of lyocell fibers in knitted fabrics in relation to wash resistance, in particular when studying Martindale shrinkage and knotting after washing. In addition, it has been demonstrated that shrinkage is significantly influenced by the torsion factor. The yarn legs in the case of a lyocell fiber yarn can have any number of layers, as well as any twist and any direction. Core yarns can be used. And the threads can be intertwined.

The web samples were considered to have a low basis weight if it was not more than 100 g / m ² , having an average basis weight if it was more than 100 g / m ² and not more than 220 g / m ² , and having a high basis weight if it exceeded 220 g / m ² .

Sample 1 was made as a plain weave jersey using a yarn containing 90 lyocell fibers and having a linear density of 150 dtex and 0 twists per meter (r / m). The resulting web contained 100% lyocell fiber. The cloth jersey plain weave had an average surface density of 140 g / m ^2.

Sample 2 was made as a plain weave jersey using a yarn containing 90 lyocell fibers and having a linear density of 150 dtex and 160 cr / m. The resulting web contained 100% lyocell fiber. The cloth jersey plain weave has a low surface density of 89 g / m ^2.

Sample 3 was made as a plain weave jersey using a yarn containing 90 lyocell fibers and having a linear density of 150 dtex and 1200 cr / m. The resulting web contained 100% lyocell fiber. The cloth jersey plain weave has a low surface density of 99 g / m ^2.

Sample 4 was made as a plain weave jersey using a yarn containing 90 lyocell fibers and having a linear density of 150 dtex and 2100 cr / m. The resulting web contained 100% lyocell fiber. The cloth jersey plain weave had an average surface density of 121 g / m ^2.

Sample 5 was made as a plain weave jersey using a double strand of 60 woven lyocell fibers having a linear density of 100 dtex and 1200 cr / m. The resulting web contained 100% lyocell fiber. The cloth jersey plain weave have a high surface density of 289 g / m ^2.

Sample 6 was made as a plain weave jersey fabric using a double strand of 180 woven lyocell fibers having a linear density of 300 dtex, the resulting fabric containing 100% lyocell fiber. The cloth jersey plain weave had an average surface density of 181 g / m ^2.

Sample 7 was made as a plain weave jersey using a yarn containing 30 lyocell fibers and having a linear density of 60 dtex and 0 cr / m. The resulting web contained 100% lyocell fiber. The cloth jersey plain weave has a low surface density of 100 g / m ^2.

Sample 8 was made as a plain jersey fabric using a yarn containing 30 lyocell fibers, having a linear density of 60 dtex and 0 cr / m and knitted with an elastane having a linear density of 22 dtex. The resulting fabric contained 90% lyocell fibers and 10% elastane. The cloth jersey plain weave had an average surface density of 129 g / m ^2.

Sample 9 was made as plain weave jersey using a double strand of 30 lyocell fibers having a linear density of 40 dtex and 500 cr / m plated with elastane having a linear density of 22 dtex. The resulting fabric contained 90% lyocell and 10% elastane. The cloth jersey plain weave has a low surface density of 100 g / m ^2.

The materials and performance after washing and drying of Samples 1-4 of the plain weave of 100% lyocell fiber are summarized in Table 1a, and the materials and characteristics after washing and drying of Samples 5-9 of the plain weave jersey are summarized in Table 1b.

Sample 10 was made as a plain jersey fabric using a double strand of 30 lyocell fibers having a linear density of 40 dtex and 1200 ct / m and knitted with an elastane having a linear density of 22 dtex. The resulting fabric contained 90% lyocell fibers and 10% elastane. The cloth jersey plain weave had an average surface density of 101 g / m ^2.

Sample 11 is a comparative example of a commercially available fabric containing 85% polyamide and 15% elastane. The cloth jersey plain weave had an average surface density of 122 g / m ^2.

Sample 12 was made as a plain jersey fabric using a shiny 60 fiber yarn having a linear density of 80 dtex and 0 cr / m and interlaced with a polyester textured yarn. The resulting web contained 50% lyocell fiber and 50% polyester. The cloth jersey plain weave have a high surface density of 227 g / m ^2.

Sample 13 is a comparative example of a commercially available web containing 92% polyester fiber and 8% elastane. The cloth jersey plain weave had an average surface density of 161 g / m ^2.

The materials and characteristics of Samples 10-13 of the plain weave blended jersey are summarized in Table 2. These samples demonstrate the combinations of different fibers in the yarns, as well as the positive effect of Lyocell fibers in the knitted fabric in relation to washing resistance, in particular shrinkage and shear in Martindale nodules in the study after washing. For example, a yarn of staple fibers can be braided with at least one lyocell fiber. The legs of the threads can have any number of layers, any twist and any direction. Core yarns can be used. In addition, the threads can be intertwined.

Sample 14 was made as an interlock fabric by combining a 90 fiber yarn having a linear density of 150 dtex and 0 cr / m and an elastic polyamide core yarn in a 2x2 knit system. The resulting fabric contained 60% lyocell fiber, 40% polyamide and 10% elastane. The interlock fabric had a high basis weight of 347 g / m ² .

Sample 15 was made as an interlock fabric using a glossy yarn containing 60 fibers, having a linear density of 80 dtex and 0 cr / m and interlaced with a polyester matt fiber. The resulting web contained 50% lyocell fiber and 50% polyester. The interlock fabric had a high basis weight of 270 g / m ² .

Sample 16 was made as an interlock fabric using a 60 fiber matte yarn having a linear density of 80 dtex and 0 cr / m and interlaced with a polyester matte fiber. The resulting web contained 50% lyocell fiber and 50% polyester. The interlock fabric had an average basis weight of 192 g / m ² .

Sample 17 was made as an interlock fabric using a shiny yarn containing 30 lyocell fibers having a linear density of 50 dtex and 0 cr / m and interlaced with a matte elastane fiber having a linear density of 22 dtex. The interlock fabric had an average basis weight of 189 g / m ² .

Table 3 provides an overview of Interlock Samples 14-17 with respect to material composition and properties. It can be seen that throughout the wide range of yarns having a linear density of 50 to 150 dtex and cr / m, the resulting knitted fabrics are wash resistant and have excellent low shrinkage.

Samples 18-21 were made as an interlock fabric using a shiny yarn containing 30 lyocell fibers having a linear density of 50 dtex and 0 cr / m and interwoven with a matte elastane fiber having a linear density of 22 dtex. The interlock fabric had an average basis weight of 204 g / m ² . Samples 18-21 contained identical material. However, they varied in their processing in order to investigate the possible effect of fibrillation and the nature of the effect of fibrillation on the appearance of the surfaces of the knitted fabric, including rolling into knots, hairiness and weaving of fibers.

Fibrillation studies

Sample 18 was finished with resin to give sample 19, mechanically polished to give sample 20, and peach skin treatment to give sample 21. Sample materials 18-21 and their characteristics change due to different types of processing are summarized in table 4.

Resin finishing

The resin formulation for sizing the material of sample 18 contained:

40 g / l Knittex FEL,

12 g / l MgCl ₂ .

Spin effect: 80%.

Drying was carried out at 130 ° C. Curing was carried out for 45 seconds at 175 ° C. Thus, sample 19 was obtained.

Mechanical polishing

Sample 18 material was also mechanically polished to obtain sample 21 as follows.

First, the sample was washed using a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 ° C and 22 rpm, using 1 g / L Kieralon JET, 2 g / L soda and 1 g / L Persoftal L (1.2 kg material and 150 liters of water). After washing, the sample was rinsed and squeezed out in a centrifuge, and then dried in a suspended state. Thereafter, sizing with resin was carried out on the tenter frame using the above formulation. After finishing with resin, mechanical polishing was carried out by inverting the sample in an air drum for 7 minutes.

Peach rind effect

For the peach rind treatment, sample 18 was first washed, enzyme treated, sizing, and drum dried.

First, the sample was washed using a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 ° C and 22 rpm, using 1 g / L Kieralon JET, 2 g / L soda and 1 g / L Persoftal L (1.2 kg material and 150 liters of water). After washing, the sample was rinsed and squeezed out in a centrifuge, and then dried in a suspended state. Thereafter, sizing with resin was carried out on the tenter frame using the above formulation.

First, the sample was washed using a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 ° C and 22 rpm, using 1 g / L Kieralon JET, 2 g / L soda and 1 g / L Persoftal L (1.2 kg material and 150 liters of water). After washing, the sample was rinsed.

To achieve the peach rind effect, the enzymatic treatment was carried out in a Tupesa washing machine at 22 rpm using 0.6 kg of material and 100 l of water containing:

0.5 g / l Perlavin NIC,

4.0 g / l Perilan VF,

0.4 g / L Perilan RFC,

3.0 g / l Peristal E.

The enzymatic treatment was started at 55 ° C. After 5 minutes, the pH was adjusted. If this value reached 5.5, 2.0 g / L Perizym 2000 was added. The treatment was then continued for 45 minutes at 55 ° C.

After the end of the enzymatic treatment, heating was carried out to 85 ° C and the treatment was continued for 15 minutes. After that, the water was poured off, the material was rinsed in warm water and then in cold water.

For additional finishing, 2% Tubingal RGH was added to the Tupesa washing machine and treatment continued for 20 minutes at 40 ° C. at pH 6.

After that, the material was squeezed out in a centrifuge and dried in a drum at 80 ° C for 50 minutes. The material was then allowed to cool for 10 minutes. As a result, sample 21 was obtained.

TSA study

A TSA study was carried out to verify that the tactile qualities of a lyocell knitted fabric are at least as good as, if not superior to, existing knitted fabrics.

The TSA study was carried out to evaluate softness and smoothness, as these two tactile qualities are very important for the end user.

et al., "Исследование грифа текстильных материалов с применением акустического анализа", Meilland Textilberichte, 1/2102, p. 43-45; в публикации ЕМТЕС,

"Новая и объективная измерительная методика для анализа мягкости ткани" (2012); в инструкциях по эксплуатации прибора TSA; и в статье "Новая и объективная измерительная методика для анализа мягкости", Allgemeiner Vliesstoff Report (AVR), 5/2015, p. 99-101. Это исследование, первоначально разработанное для измерении мягкости и гладкости тонкой бумаги и нетканых материалов с применением акустических спектров, было также приспособлено для оценки мягкости и гладкости тканых полотен.The TSA study is described in the article

et al., "Investigating the Neck of Textile Materials Using Acoustic Analysis", Meilland Textilberichte, 1/2102, p. 43-45; in the EMTEC publication,

"New and Objective Measurement Technique for Tissue Softness Analysis"(2012); in the instructions for use of the TSA instrument; and in the article "A New and Objective Measurement Technique for Softness Analysis", Allgemeiner Vliesstoff Report (AVR), 5/2015, p. 99-101. This study, originally designed to measure the softness and smoothness of tissue paper and nonwovens using acoustic spectra, was also adapted to evaluate the softness and smoothness of woven fabrics.

The TSA study was carried out using a tissue softness analyzer (TSA) device from EMTEC Electronics GmbH (Leipzig, Germany) and the ESM software that is supplied with the TSA device. In the TSA study, the acoustic spectrum is measured, which is obtained by pressing and rotating a star-shaped body against a web sample with a predetermined force. For research, the web is clamped around its perimeter and left unsupported at other points, in particular, opposite the rotating body. Here, the TSA study did not use software and associated scoring algorithms. Instead, in the acoustic spectrum, the TS7 acoustic pressure measured by the TSA at 7 kHz was taken as an objective indirect measure of softness, and the TS750 acoustic pressure measured by the TSA at 750 Hz was taken as an objective indirect measure of smoothness. The acoustic pressure was automatically determined by the TSA as the rms dB⋅V ² , where V is the rotational speed of the rotating body. The direct application of these values avoided any problems that might arise from the Evaluation, Maximization, and Smoothing (EMS) algorithm designed for tissue paper rather than woven fabrics. The TSA study was performed on four samples for each sample.

For testing, a sample of 11 cm diameter web was clamped in the TSA device, which was examined without stretching.

Smaller TS7 values show higher softness and lower TS750 values show higher smoothness.

Neck Testing

дюйма, балку массой 1000 г и поверхность из нержавеющей стали. Исследования образцов проводили в условиях 20/65.Headstock studies were performed using an appropriate instrument from the Thwing-Albert Instrument Company (West Berlin, NJ, USA). The sample dimensions were 10 cm × 10 cm. A slit with a width of

inch, 1000 g beam and stainless steel surface. Samples were tested under 20/65 conditions.

In both studies using the TSA and the neck tester, only the face (outer) side of the knit was analyzed.

During testing, the bar finder makes two force measurements that correspond to two orthogonal directions, including the machine direction MD, which in the selected orientation is the main direction, and the transverse direction CD, which in the selected orientation is the weft direction. The stiffness and smoothness of the investigated surface are correlated with the indicated forces. The force is normalized in relation to the surface density of the test sample, and as a result, a bar is obtained, expressed in mN⋅m ² ⋅g ^-1 .

Based on studies using a tissue softness analyzer and a fingerprint tester, it can be concluded that the lyocell knitted fabric of the present invention exhibits excellent tactile properties.

Claims (14)

1. Knitted fabric made from at least one yarn that contains or consists of lyocell fibers, the total shrinkage of the knitted fabric after one wash and / or after five washes is less than 10%. 2. The knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the yarn contains at least 10% lyocell fibers. 3. A knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the thread has at least 2000 cr / m. 4. Knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the total shrinkage of the knitted fabric after one wash and / or after five washes is less than 5%. 5. Knitted fabric according to any one of paragraphs. 1-4, in which the helicality over 50 cm is less than 20 mm after one wash and / or less than 25 mm after five washes. 6. Knitted fabric according to any one of paragraphs. 1-5, and the hairiness of the knitted fabric has an assessment of not worse than 3 in the initial state and / or after one wash. 7. Knitted fabric according to any one of paragraphs. 1-6, and the knitted fabric is rated no worse than 4 in the Martindale knot test after 1000 and / or 2000 cycles and / or no worse than 3.5 after 5000 cycles in the initial state and / or after five washes. 8. Knitted fabric according to any one of paragraphs. 1-7, and the knitted fabric withstands at least 40,000 cycles to break and / or to form holes. 9. Knitted fabric according to any one of paragraphs. 1-8, wherein the web is dyed with at least one of reactive, vat, sulfur, and direct dye. 10. A knitted fabric according to claim 9, wherein the dye used is at least one of a bifunctional and multifunctional dye, and wherein the cellulose in the yarn is crosslinked. 11. Knitted fabric according to any one of paragraphs. 1-10, and the canvas is treated with a resin sizing. 12. Knitted fabric according to any one of paragraphs. 1-11, the web being a peach skin effect web. 13. Textile product, such as clothing, containing a knitted fabric according to any one of paragraphs. 1-12. 14. The use of yarn containing or consisting of lyocell fibers, in a knitted fabric, the total shrinkage of which after one wash and / or after five washes is less than 10%.