BR112020004547A2 - knitted continuous filament lyocell fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a knitted fabric. There is a need for knitted fabrics that are comfortable to use, have good washing capacity and high softness. A good washing capacity implies both dimensional stability of the fabric and maintenance of positive aspects of the surface, such as hairiness, pellet formation and fiber splicing, even after several washes. This objective is solved according to the invention by a knitted fabric made from at least one thread that consists of or contains lyocell filaments. The resulting fabric has high wearing comfort and superior mechanical qualities.

Description

Descriptive Report of the Invention Patent for "KNITTED LIOCEL FABRICS OF KNITTED".

[0001] The present invention relates to knitted fabrics comprising at least one yarn consisting of or containing continuous filaments.

[0002] In a knitted fabric, a fabric is formed by at least one thread that is interwoven into loops. This contrasts with a woven cloth in which two different threads, a weft and warp thread are intertwined.

[0003] Continuous filament yarns are used in the textile industry to produce fabrics with a distinctive character compared to fabrics produced from yarns made from textile fibers. A continuous filament yarn is one in which all fibers (technically: filaments) are continuous along any length of the yarn. A continuous filament yarn will normally consist of 20 to 200 or more individual fibers, all parallel to each other and to the yarn axis when produced. The yarn is produced by extruding a solution or melting of a polymer or polymer derivative and then winding the yarn produced on a coil or spool or forming a cake by centrifugal winding. The yarn can be twisted or mixed to change its characteristics.

[0004] Continuous synthetic polymer filament yarns are common. For example, nylon, polyester and polypropylene continuous filament yarns are used in a wide variety of fabrics. They are produced by spinning by melting a molten polymer through a spinner with a number of holes corresponding to the number of fibers required in the produced yarn. After the molten polymer starts to solidify, the yarn can be pulled to guide the polymer's molecules and improve the yarn's properties.

[0005] Continuous filament yarns can also be spun from cellulose derivatives like cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate by dry spinning. The polymer is dissolved in a suitable solvent and then extruded through a spinner. The solvent evaporates quickly after extrusion causing the polymer to precipitate as a wire. The newly produced wire can be pulled to guide the polymer molecules.

[0006] Continuous filament yarns can be produced from cellulose using the viscose process. Cellulose is converted to cellulose xanthate by reaction with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide and then dissolved in a sodium hydroxide solution. The cellulose solution, commonly called viscose, is extruded through a spinner to an acid bath. The sodium hydroxide is neutralized causing the cellulose to precipitate. At the same time, cellulose xanthate is converted back to cellulose by reacting with the acid. The newly formed fiber is pulled to guide the cellulose molecules, washed to remove reagents from the fiber and then dried and wound in a bobbin. In previous versions of this process, the wet yarn was collected in a cake using a centrifugal winder - a Topham Box. The yarn cake was then dried in an oven before being rolled up in a bobbin.

[0007] Continuous filament cellulose yarns are also produced using the cupro process. The cellulose is dissolved in a solution of cuprammonium hydroxide. The resulting solution is extruded into a water bath where the cuprammonium hydroxide is diluted and the cellulose precipitates. The resulting yarn is washed, dried and wound in a bobbin.

[0008] The continuous cellulosic filament yarns produced by the process of viscose or cupro can be transformed into fabrics by knitting. Orders for continuous filament knitted cellulosic fabrics include lingerie, underwear, women's socks and blouses and tops.

[0009] Knitted fabrics made with continuous filament cellulose yarn can have a high luster. They are good at handling moisture to increase user comfort. They do not generate static electricity as quickly as fabrics made from synthetic filament yarns.

[0010] Fabrics made from currently available continuous filament cellulose yarn generally have poor physical properties. Dry strength and tear resistance are weak compared to fabrics made from synthetic polymers, such as polyester. The wet strength is much less than the dry strength due to the interactions between cellulose and water. Abrasion resistance is low. Interactions with water also soften cellulose, making fabrics made from yarn unstable when moistened.

[0011] Due to these deficiencies, the knitted fabrics that were originally made with continuous filament cellulose yarn are now mainly produced with synthetic filament continuous filament yarn, such as polyester and nylon.

[0012] However, there may be problems with synthetic yarns. The fabrics made with them do not have the ability to manipulate moisture from fabrics made from cellulose yarn. Synthetic fabrics can generate static electricity. Some people find that garments made with synthetic yarns are much less comfortable to wear than fabrics that contain cellulose.

[0013] Knitted fabrics are necessary that are comfortable to use, have good washing capacity and high softness. A good washing capacity implies dimensional stability of the fabric and maintenance of positive aspects of the surface, such as hairiness, formation of balls and fiber splicing, even after several washes.

[0014] This objective is solved according to the invention by a knitted fabric made from at least one thread that consists of or contains lyocell filaments.

[0015] Surprisingly, it has been found that knitted fabrics can be produced from continuous filament lyocell yarns and that this knitted fabric has physical properties far superior to those produced from viscose or cuff from continuous filaments. It has also surprisingly been discovered that lyocell fabrics can have luster, moisture handling properties and low static generation, which are the desirable characteristics of viscose and cuffed filament fabrics. The washability of the knitted fabric containing at least one lyocell filament yarn is superior to fabrics that use synthetic, wool and / or silk filaments.

[0016] Liocel is the generic name given to a type of synthetic cellulosic fiber produced by the process of direct dissolution. Processed lyocell is described in US 4,246,221 and WO 93/19230.

[0017] A wood pulp paste is formed with a solution of amine oxide in the water. The water is then evaporated from the paste in a thin film evaporator container. When the water level is reduced below a certain level, cellulose forms a solution in the amine oxide. The resulting viscous liquid solidifies to a glassy solid below about 70 ° C. If kept above this temperature, it can be pumped through a spinner to form fibers that are immediately immersed in water, where the dilution of the amine oxide causes the cellulose to precipitate.

[0018] The lyocell process can be used to produce continuous filament lyocell yarns. The spinner used to extrude the amine oxide cellulose solution has several holes corresponding to the number of fibers required in the continuous filament yarn. After extrusion, the newly formed yarn is washed clean with amine oxide with a counterflow of water. This washing can be done on reels with automatic advance, in which water is introduced to wash the fiber. A finish can be applied to aid processing and the wire is dried. The washed and dried yarn is wound on a bobbin.

[0019] In the lyocell process, cellulose in the form of wood pulp is the only raw material used. The wood pulp used comes from sustainable managed forests. The fiber produced is 100% cellulose and is the only way out of the process. The amine oxide solvent is covered with washing water and reused to produce more fibers. This recovery can be as high as 99.7%. As a result, the environmental impact of the lyocell process is very low. There are practically no releases of gaseous or liquid emissions from the process and the fiber produced is free of solvents.

[0020] On the other hand, the viscose process uses carbon disulfide, sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid and zinc sulfate. Hydrogen sulfide and carbon disulfide can be released from the process unless great care is taken. Sodium sulfate is produced as a by-product of the process.

[0021] In the cupro process, there is a risk of releasing copper compounds into the environment, with consequent negative effects.

[0022] The fiber produced by the lyocell process has a considerably higher resistance to tension than the fiber produced by the viscose process. This can result in fabrics with better strength, tear resistance and abrasion resistance.

[0023] The fabric according to the invention can be further improved by the following characteristics, which are all independent of each other.

[0024] The continuous filament lyocell yarns used to produce the products of the invention can be the yarns produced in an untwisted state or can be twisted by rewinding. It may be a bent wire. It can be combined with another continuous filament yarn or textile fiber yarn, twisting the yarns together or mixing using, for example, an air jet.

[0025] The twist of the lyocell filament yarn can be between 0 and 3500 TPM. In particular, it can be at least 1000 TPM or at least 2000 TPM if special surface effects are desired.

[0026] The knitted fabric according to the invention preferably has good washing capacity, in particular low shrinkage. This is a unique property of the yarn which preferably consists of or contains at least 10% or at least 25% of lyocell filaments. Due to the low shrinkage of the lyocell filament yarn, yarns with 0 TPM or a very low twist, eg below 100 TPM, can be used without compromising washability.

[0027] The combined shrinkage, that is, the sum of the absolute shrinkage values in two perpendicular directions between TPM 0 and TPM 700 can, in one mode, be less than 12% or even less than 5% after one and / or five washes. For mixtures of lyocell filaments with at least 3%, preferably 5 to 10%, elastane and / or synthetic fibers or filaments of at least 10%, preferably between 30 and 50%, of polyester or polyamide have a combined shrinkage less than 5% or even less than 2%.

[0028] The surface qualities of the knitted fabric according to the invention are very good. Mesh fabric comprising at least one lyocell filament yarn, i.e. a lyocell filament yarn, can score at least 40,000 cycles, preferably more than 100,000 cycles for orifice formation and / or no destruction before and after the first wash in a Martindale abrasion test, especially when the lyocell filament is mixed with synthetic fibers of at least 30%, preferably 50%.

[0029] The lyocell denim according to the invention preferably contains at least 10% lyocell filaments in at least one weft and warp yarn. Preferably, the minimum total content of lyocell filaments in lyocell denim is greater than 10%. A content greater than 10% can significantly improve the manual feel of the fabric, given the soft structure of a thread that contains or consists of lyocell filaments. Consequently, the total lyocell content of at least 10% already produces a tactile impact, regardless of whether the lyocell filament is used in weft or warp. In addition, a mixture of at least 10% of lyocell filaments with other synthetic or cellulose filaments, for example, with viscose or cupro filaments, or with viscose or cupro textile fibers or wool and cotton, improves the strength of the yarn . Finally, a mixture of at least 10% lyocell and synthetic filaments significantly improves the breathability and moisture management of the fabric.

[0030] The moisture recovery of the fabric, measured according to the ASTMD 1909 standard, is an indicator of the comfort level. Mulberry silk has 11% moisture recovery and offers one of the best comfort levels of all fabrics in terms of moisture recovery. Testing a lyocell filament shows a moisture recovery of at least 13%, which is similar or even better than the comfort offered by mulberry silk and better than expected.

[0031] Another advantage of lyocell mesh filament fabric is its ability to withstand even aggressive finishing agents, such as chlorine-based bleach. It has even been discovered that the application of such finishing agents can increase the softness of the lyocell filament mesh fabric.

[0032] The loss of strength when the lyocell fibers are moistened is much less than for viscose fibers. This means that lyocell fabrics are more difficult to deform when wet, providing better tissue stability. Lyocell fabrics are also stronger when wet than equivalent viscose fabrics.

[0033] Fabrics produced with continuous filament lyocell yarns may have the appearance and aesthetic properties of fabrics produced with continuous filament viscose yarns, but unexpectedly have good physical properties.

[0034] For example, the knitted fabric according to the invention can have a grade of not less than 3, in particular 4 in a Martindale ball formation test after 1000 cycles and / or not less than 3.5 after 2000 cycles in the original state and / or after the first wash

[0035] The hairiness of the knitted fabric according to the invention can have a degree of not less than 3 in the original state and / or after one wash and / or after five washes.

[0036] Spirality of the knitted fabric according to the invention, measured above 50 cm can be less than 20 mm after one wash and less than 25 mm after five washes. Spirality can be influenced by the finish and also by the elastane content in the fabric.

[0037] The products of the invention include products made from lyocell continuous filament yarn as produced or after further processing. Products include, among others, knitted fabrics produced using table knitting machines, single cylinder circular knitting machines, double cylinder circular knitting machines and warp knitting machines. Any machine can be used to form a fabric by knitting with continuous filament lyocell threads on its own or in combination with other threads.

[0038] The products of the invention are characterized by the superior physical properties that can be obtained using continuous filament lyocell yarns compared to other continuous filament cellulose yarns.

[0039] The continuous filament lyocell yarns used to produce the products of the invention can be the yarns produced in an untwisted state or can be twisted by rewinding. It may be a bent wire. It can be combined with another continuous filament yarn or textile fiber yarn, twisting the yarns together or mixing using, for example, an air jet.

[0040] Knitted fabrics can be produced from continuous filament lyocell yarns by any knitting technique used in the textile industry. They can be produced by single or double cylinder circular knitting, flat bed knitting, warp knitting or fully formed knitting.

[0041] Fabrics can be produced by knitting continuous filament lyocell threads at the same time as knitting with other threads on the same machine. The threads can be fed to the machine through the same feeder to produce the same threads in each knitted loop. Yarns can be fed to the machine through separate feeders to produce different combinations of yarns on adjacent strands or strands.

[0042] Knitted fabrics produced using continuous filament lyocell yarns, alone or in combination with other yarns, may have aesthetics and appearance similar to a fabric produced from continuous filament viscose yarns, but have physical properties significantly better. The higher strength and modulus of the continuous filament lyocell yarn result in a proven resistance to tissue breakage, tear resistance, abrasion resistance and stability. The properties of wet tissue are also superior.

[0043] For example, a knitted fabric using continuous filament lyocell yarn has a luster, handle and appearance similar to a knitted fabric with the same weight and construction produced using continuous filament viscose. However, the properties of lyocell fabric are considerably better.

[0044] Fabrics made with continuous filament lyocell yarns can be dyed and finished using any of the dyeing methods commonly used to dye and finish cellulosic fabrics. They can be dyed with reactive, vat, direct or sulfur dyes.

[0045] Continuous filament lyocell fabrics can be dyed with rope, dyed in open width or dyed in batch. Care must be taken to ensure that the fabric surface is not disturbed or damaged during dyeing and that the appropriate equipment is used. It is known that lyocell tissues can fibrillate during wet processing. Short fibers can form on the surface where wet abrasion occurs. It is necessary to take measures to control this fibrillation, allowing it to have a uniform and controlled manner or preventing the occurrence of fibrillation. Open-width dyeing and batch dyeing are known methods to prevent fibrillation from occurring.

[0046] The knitted fabric according to the invention can be mechanically resinized and / or polished and / or a peach skin fabric. This tissue has superior surface aspects.

[0047] Fibrillation can be used to produce a peach touch fabric using continuous filament lyocell threads. For example, if the fabric is dyed in an air jet dyeing machine, where the fabric surface is evenly worn when wet, it will produce a uniform and attractive fibrillated surface.

[0048] Continuous filament lyocell fabrics can be finished with resin to prevent fibrillation in use and during washing. The resin finish also improves the stability and easy maintenance properties of the fabric. The resin finish cross-links the cellulose molecules and prevents them from separating when the fabric is subjected to wet abrasion.

[0049] Fibrillation can also be prevented by the use of certain dyes with more than one reactive group in the dye molecule. These dyes cross-link cellulose in a similar way to resin finishes and thus prevent fibers from fibrilating during wet abrasion.

[0050] Knitted fabrics using continuous filament lyocell yarn can be used for any application in which fabrics made with viscose yarn or continuous filament cupro have been or are currently being used. They can also be used for other applications where fabrics made with viscose or continuous filament cupro do not have adequate properties to provide the required performance.

[0051] The knitted fabric according to the invention can be a shirt.

[0052] Knitted fabrics made using continuous filament lyocell yarn can be used to produce garments, socks, lingerie and underwear.

[0053] It will be clear to experts on textiles that fabrics and other articles can be produced from combinations, blends or mixtures of continuous filament lyocell yarns with other yarns and fibers. It is common practice in the textile industry to mix yarns into a fabric to obtain the benefits of component properties. For example, a knitted fabric can be produced using a continuous filament lyocell yarn and an elastane yarn together in a circular knitting machine. The resulting fabric would have characteristics attributable to the two component threads. For example, the presence of the elastane yarn would give the fabric stretch and recovery properties that would not be shown on a 100% lyocell fabric.

[0054] Knitted products are fashion items that need to be available in a variety of looks and tactile sensations. Therefore, it is an advantage that lyocell filaments allow the knitted fabric according to the invention to be made from a wide variety of combinations, blends or mixtures of continuous lyocell filaments with filaments, fibers and yarns made from other materials synthetic, natural or cellulosic. The scope of this invention is intended to include, in particular, any fabric or knitted item in which continuous filament lyocell is a major component.

[0055] The invention also relates to the use of a yarn that contains or consists of lyocell filaments in a mesh fabric.

TESTS - A Martindale abrasion test according to DIN EN ISO 12947-2; - A Martindale ball formation test according to DIN EN ISO 12945-2; - shrinkage when washing according to DIN EN ISO 5077; of the absolute values of the shrinkage in both directions of the sample, the sum was taken as a combined shrinkage; - friction fastness according to ISO 105 X12; - AATCC classification for permanent ironing according to DIN EN ISO 15487; - air permeability according to DIN EN ISO 9237; - solidity according to DIN EN 20105 - A02; - yarn resistance in weft and warp according to DIN EN ISO 2062; - moisture recovery according to ASTMD 1909; - gloss of the wires was determined at an angle of 45 ° according to EN 14086 - 01/2003; e - gloss of the fabrics was determined at an angle of 75 ° according to TAPPI T480.

[0056] For the final consumer, it is important how the appearance of a fabric changes after washing. To assess this, the surface aspects of hairiness, pellet formation and fiber splice were determined according to the following methods:

[0057] The tests were carried out by 3 people in a dark room, in which a color evaluation booth “Multilight Datacolor” by Variolux was provided with D65 natural light lamps. The lamps were mounted on the top of the cabin.

[0058] To test the hairiness, the sample was kept oblique by the tester and the hairiness was classified between best (grade 5, absence of hair) and worst (grade 1, long protruding fibers of up to 2 mm).

[0059] The number of balls was evaluated using reference samples (K3 or K2 meshes, or W3 or W2 fabrics) of the EMPA SN 198525 standard, analogous to DIN EN ISO 12 945-2. The reference samples are graded from 1 to 5 and are compared with the test samples. For no ball, grade 5 is given. The more balls on the surface of the test samples, the worse the grade. The worst grade is 1.

[0060] The fiber splice is created if the fibril fibers are moved to the surface by rubbing. Fibrilic fibers have brush-like ends and stand out if the rubbed sample is analyzed under a microscope. To measure the splice of the fiber, an SM microscope with an XHL eyepiece from UHL Technische Mikroskope was used. For a smooth surface that did not have fibrils, grade 5 was given. If there was a dense hair with long ends and fiber curves, which were partially detached from the surface, grade 1 was given.

[0061] In the three tests, intermediate degrees were possible.

[0062] If the samples were subjected to washing, the washing was carried out according to DIN EN ISO 6330. The tests to evaluate the parameters in the dry state are carried out in the conditioned state 65/20, that is, in the state in which the fabric is in balance with the surrounding environment which has been maintained at 65% humidity and 20 ° C.

[0063] In this way, the weight was determined according to DIN EN

12127. The yarn count in the weft and warp was carried out according to DIN 53820-3.

[0064] Spirality was determined by measuring the course deviation in mm, at a distance of 50 cm from the origin.

[0065] All the standards mentioned in this application are included by reference in their entirety.

[0066] The samples were prepared as follows. Samples

[0067] The materials and characteristics of the single-jacket mixtures of samples 1 to 9 are summarized in Table 1a and 1b.

[0068] These samples demonstrate the combinations of different filaments in the threads, as well as the positive influence of the lyocell filaments on the knit fabric in relation to washability, in particular the shrinkage and the formation of balls, according to the Martindale test after the washing. It is also shown that shrinkage is strongly influenced by the torsion level. The legs of the lyocell filament yarn can have any number of layers, any twist and any direction. The core wires can be used. And the wires can be mixed.

[0069] In the samples, a fabric was considered light if its weight does not exceed 100 g / m², medium if the weight exceeds 100 g / m² and does not exceed 220 g / m² and heavy if the weight exceeds to 220 g / m².

[0070] Sample 1 was made as a single shirt with a lyocell dtex 150f90 filament yarn count with 0 TPM (twists per meter). This resulted in a fabric with 100% lyocell filament. The single shirt had an average weight of 140 g / m².

[0071] Sample 2 was made as a single shirt with a lyocell dtex 150f90 filament yarn count with TPM 160. This resulted in a fabric with 100% lyocell filament. The single shirt had a light weight of 89 g / m².

[0072] Sample 3 was made as a single shirt with a lyocell dtex 150f90 filament yarn count with TPM 1200. This resulted in a fabric with 100% lyocell filament. The single shirt had a light weight of 99 g / m².

[0073] Sample 4 was made as a single shirt with a lyocell dtex 150f90 filament yarn count with TPM 2100. This resulted in a fabric with 100% lyocell filament. The single shirt had an average weight of 121 g / m².

[0074] Sample 5 was made as a single shirt with two strata of dtex 100f60 lyocell filament and twisted with TPM 1200. This resulted in a fabric with 100% lyocell filament. The single shirt had a heavy weight of 289 g / m².

[0075] Sample 6 was made as a single shirt with two strata of lyocell dtex 300f180 filament. This resulted in a fabric with 100% lyocell filament. The single shirt had an average weight of 181 g / m².

[0076] Sample 7 was made as a single shirt with a lyocell dtex filament yarn count 60f30 with 0 TPM. This resulted in a fabric with 100% lyocell filament. The single shirt had a light weight of 100 g / m².

[0077] Sample 8 was made as a single shirt with a lyocell dtex filament yarn count 60f30 with 0 TPM bathed in a knitting machine with 22 dtex elastane. This resulted in a fabric with a 90% lyocell and 10% elastane filament. The single shirt had an average weight of 129 g / m².

[0078] Sample 9 was made as a single shirt with double twist of lyocell filament dtex 40f30 twisted with TPM 500 bathed with 22 dtex of elastane. This resulted in a fabric with a 90% lyocell and 10% elastane filament. The single shirt had a light weight of 100 g / m².

[0079] The materials and characteristics after washing and drying the single liners of 100% lyocell filament of samples 1 to 4 are summarized in Table 1a, those of the single liners of samples 5 to 9 in Table 1b.

[0080] Sample 10 was made as a single shirt with double twist based on lyocell dtex filament 40f30 with twist of TPM 1200 thread bathed in a knitting machine with 22 dtex of elastane. This resulted in a fabric with a 90% lyocell and 10% elastane filament. The single shirt had an average weight of 101 g / m².

[0081] Sample 11 is a comparative sample commercially available with 85% polyamide and 15% elastane. The single shirt had an average weight of 122 g / m².

[0082] Sample 12 was made as a single shirt with a thread count of 80 dtex with 60 bright filaments of 0 TPM mixed with a textured polyester thread. This resulted in a fabric with 50% lyocell and 50% polyester filament. The single shirt had a heavy weight of 227 g / m².

[0083] Sample 13 is a commercially available comparative sample having 92% polyamide and 8% elastane filament. The single shirt had an average weight of 161 g / m².

[0084] The materials and characteristics of the single jacket mixtures of samples 10 to 13 are summarized in Table 2. These samples demonstrate the combinations of different filaments in the yarns, as well as the positive influence of lyocell filaments on the knitted fabric in relation washability, in particular shrinkage and ball formation, according to the Martindale test after washing. For example, a textile fiber yarn can be folded with at least one lyocell filament. The yarn legs can have any number of layers, any twist and any direction. The core wires can be used. And the wires can be mixed.

[0085] Sample 14 was made as an interconnect with a 150 dtex yarn count with 90 filaments and 0 TPM used together with an elastic polyamide core yarn in a 2 by 2 mesh system. This resulted in a fabric with filament of 60% lyocell and 10% elastane. The interconnected had a heavy weight of 347 g / m².

[0086] Sample 15 was made as an interconnect with an 80 dtex yarn count with 60 bright 0 TPM filaments mixed with an opaque polyester filament. This resulted in a fabric with 50% lyocell and 50% polyester filament. The interconnected had a heavy weight of 270 g / m².

[0087] Sample 16 was made as an interconnect with an 80 dtex yarn count with 60 0 TPM opaque filaments mixed with an opaque polyester filament. This resulted in a fabric with 50% lyocell and 50% polyester filament. The interconnected had an average weight of 192 g / m².

[0088] Sample 17 was made as interconnected with a thread interlaced at the base of the 50 dtex lyocell filament with 30 single shiny filaments with 0 TPM and 22 dtex opaque elastane. The interconnected had an average weight of 189 g / m².

[0089] Table 3 presents an overview of interconnected samples 14 to 17 in relation to composition and material properties. It can be seen that in a wide range of 50 to 150 dtex and for threads with 0 TPM, the resulting knitted fabrics are washable and have an excellent shrinkage.

[0090] Samples 18 to 21 were made as interconnected with a thread interlaced at the base of the 50 dtex lyocell filament with 30 single shiny filaments with 0 TPM and 22 dtex opaque elastane. The interconnected had an average weight of 204 g / m². The material of samples 18 to 21 is identical. They differ, however, in the treatment to follow to investigate how fibrillation can be influenced and how fibrillation affects the surface aspects of the mesh, such as ball formation, hairiness and fiber splice. Fibrillation test

[0091] The material of sample 18 was submitted to resin finishing, which resulted in sample 19, to mechanical polishing, which resulted in sample 20, and to the treatment of peach skin, which resulted in sample 21. The material of samples 18 to 21 and the change in characteristics due to the different treatments are summarized in Table 4. Resin finish

[0092] The resin recipe for finishing the material of sample 18 was 40 g / l Knittex FEL 12 g / l MgCl2 compression effect: 80%.

[0093] Drying was carried out at 130 ° C. Curing was carried out for 45 s at 175 ° C. Thus, sample 19 was obtained. Mechanical polishing

[0094] The material in sample 18 was also mechanically polished to obtain sample 21 as follows.

[0095] First, the sample was washed using a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 ° C and 22 rpm using 1 g / l Kieralon JET, 2 g / l Soda and 1 g / l Persoftal L (1.2 kg as detergent) of material and 150 l of water). After washing, the sample was washed and centrifuged and then dried hanging. After that, the resin finishing took place on a Stenter machine, using the formula above. After the resin finish, mechanical polishing was applied by rotating the sample in a mixer by dropping air for 7 minutes. Peach skin

[0096] For the treatment of peach skin, the material of sample 18 was first washed, then treated with enzymes, finished and then dried in the washing machine.

[0097] First, the sample was washed using a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 ° C and 22 rpm using 1 g / l Kieralon JET, 2 g / l Soda and 1 g / l Persoftal L (1.2 kg) of material and 150 l of water). After washing, the sample was washed and centrifuged and then dried hanging. After that, the resin finishing took place in a Stenter, using the formula above.

[0098] First, the sample was washed in a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 ° C and 22 rpm using 1 g / l Kieralon JET, 2 g / l Soda and 1 g / l Persoftal L (1.2 kg as detergent) of material and 150 l of water). After washing, the sample was rinsed.

[0099] To obtain a peach skin effect, enzymatic treatment, a Tupesa washing machine was performed at 22 rpm, using 0.6 kg of material and 100 l of water with 0.5 g / l Perlavin NIC 4.0 g / l Perilan VF 0.4 g / l Perilan RFC 3.0 g / l Peristal E.

[0100] Enzyme treatment started at 55 ° C. After 5 min, the pH value was controlled. If the pH reached 5.5, 2.0 g / l Perizym 2000 were added. Then the treatment continued for 45 minutes at 55 ° C.

[0101] At the end of the enzymatic treatment, heating occurred at 85 ° C and the treatment continued for 15 minutes. After the water was drained, the material was washed with warm water and then cold water.

[0102] For additional finishing, 2% of Tubingal RGH was applied in the Tupesa washing machine and the treatment continued for 20 minutes at 40 ° C at pH 6.

[0103] After that, the material was centrifuged and dried in a mixer by tipping at 80 ° C for 50 minutes. The material was then cooled for 10 minutes. This resulted in sample 21. The TSA test

[0104] The TSA test was carried out to verify that the haptic qualities of the lyocell filament mesh are at least equal if not superior to the existing meshes.

[0105] The TSA test was carried out to assess softness and smoothness, the two haptic qualities that are very important for the final consumer.

[0106] The TSA test is described in Schloßer et al., “Griffbeurteilung von Textilien mittels Schal-lanalyse”, Meilland Textilberichte, 1/2102, p. 43-45, in the emtec Grüner publication, “A new and objective measuring technique to analyze the softness of tissue” (2012), in the TSA Operating Instructions, and in “Neue und Objektive Messtechnik für Softness- Analyze” in avr-Allgemeiner Vliesstoff Report 5/2015, p. 99-101. Originally developed to measure the softness and smoothness of fabrics and nonwovens using sound spectra, it has been adapted to also assess the softness and smoothness of fabrics.

[0107] The TSA test was performed using a TSA Tissue Softness Analyzer device from emtec electronics GmbH, Leipzig, Germany, and the ESM software shipped with the TSA. The TSA measures a sound spectrum that results from the pressure and rotation of a star-shaped body against a sample tissue with a defined force. For the test, the fabric is fastened around its perimeter and, otherwise, it is not supported, especially on the side opposite the rotating body. In the TSA test performed here, the software and its evaluation algorithm were not used. Instead, the sound pressure measured by TSA at 7 kHz (TS7) was taken as an objective indirect measure of smoothness and the sound pressure at 750 Hz (TS750) in the sound spectrum measured by TSA was taken as an objective indirect measure of smoothness . The sound pressure is automatically supplied by the TSA as dB V2 rms, where V is the rotation speed of the rotating body. The use of these values directly avoided any problems that may have arisen due to the EMS algorithm developed for fabrics, and not for non-fabrics. A total of four probes were subjected to the TSA test for each sample.

[0108] For the test, an 11 cm diameter tissue sample was attached as required by the TSA device and tested without stretching.

[0109] Lower values of TS7 indicate greater softness and lower values of TS750 indicate greater value of smoothness. Handle-O-Meter Tests

[0110] Handle-O-Meter tests were performed using a Handle-O-Meter test device from Thwing-Albert Instrument Company, West Berlin, NJ, USA. The sample size was 10 cm x 10 cm. The ¼-inch groove was used with a 1,000 g beam and a stainless steel surface. The tests were performed on cond samples. 65/20.

[0111] In the TSA and Handle-O-Meter tests, only the right side of the mesh was considered.

[0112] As a result, the Handle-O-Meter generates two force measurements assigned to two orthogonal directions, one direction of the MD machine which in the chosen configuration corresponds to the warp direction and a cross direction CD in the chosen configuration corresponding to the weft direction . These forces are correlated to the stiffness and smoothness of the tested surface. The strength is normalized to the total weight of the test sample, resulting in a specific hand in mN m2 g-1.

[0113] It can be concluded by the TSA and Handle-O-Meter tests that the mesh lyocell filament according to the invention shows an excellent tactile sensation. Table 1a - Samples 1 to 4: Unique 100% lyocell filament liners Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Type of fabric Single liner Single liner Single liner Medium light weight medium light weight medium weight Filament Composition Filament Filament Filament fabric material 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell Material analysis Filament Filament Filament 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell brighter brighter brighter brighter dtex 150 f90 dtex 150 f90 dtex 150 f90 dtex 150 f90 TPM 0 TPM 160 TPM 1200 TPM 2100 Special finish stamped open width open width dyed dyed dyed open construction Flat yarn construction 0 TPM 160 TPM 1200 TPM 2100 TPM yarn count dtex 150 150 150 150 Number of filaments 90 90 90 90 weight g / m² 140 89 99 121 surface appearance after washing cycles hairiness degree after 1st 2.5 4 4.5 4.5 degree wash after 5th 3 4 4.5 4.5 washing pellet formationgrade after 1st 4 4 4.5 4.5 grade wash after 5th 3.5 4 4.5 4.5 grade seam wash after 1st 1.5 1.5 1.5 1 grade wash after 5th 1 1 1 1 wash line wash test at 40 ° C. drying after each wash shrinkage in wash L% cond. after 1st -3.2 -11.4 -17.4 -31.9 wash 20/65 cond. after 5a -5.3 -15.7 -27.6 -43.5 wash 20/65 line wash test at 40 ° C. drying after each wash shrinkage in wash C% cond. after 1st -1.3 3.8 10.5 28.3 washing 20/65 cond. after the 5th -0.6 6 12.1 27 washing 20/65 spirality - over 50 cm after the 1st washing 16 25 13 43 mm after the 5th washing 0 25 0 50 mm

Table 1b - Samples 5 to 9: 100% lyocell single filament shirts Sample 5 Sample 6 Sample 7 Sample 8 Sample 9 Shirt Shirt Shirt Shirt Single fabric type single shirt single single single medium weight light weight medium weight heavy medium weight Filament Filament Filament 90% lyocell composition Filament 90% lyocell 90% lyocell fabric material / 10% 100% lyocell 100% lyocell / 10% / 10% elastane elastane elastane Filament Filament Lyocell lyocell filament more Filament 100% lyocell most brilliant Filament brilliant bright dtex 100 100% lyocell most brilliant 60 dtex f30 count f60 plus mixed 2 brilliant 60 dtex f30 count Analysis of filament material strata count dtex 300 single filament: 1.48 TPM 1200 of f180 single: dtex filament mixed elastane 2.17 dtex dtex 40 f30 single: plated: 2.23 dtex elastane 2 layers opaque lycra plated: TPM 500 22 dtex lycra opaque elastane

22 dtex plated: opaque lycra 22 dtex width width width width wide open open open stamped Special finish dyed dyed dyed flat 0 mixed - flat 0 flat 0 TPM yarn construction - 500 TPM 1200 TPM TPM TPM mixed yarn count 100 300 64 65 82 dtex number of filaments 60 180 30 30 60/2 single yarn count 41 dtex weight g / m² 269 181 100 129 103 surface appearance after washing cycles hairiness degree after 1st 3,5 3 3 4 3,5 degree washing after the 5th 4 4 4 5 3.5 washing grade ball formation after the 1st 3.5 3 3.5 3.5 4 degree washing after the 5th 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 4 washing splice grade fibers after 1st 2 1.5 2 2 2 grade wash after 5th 1 1 1 1 1.5 wash line wash test at 40 ° C. drying after each wash shrinkage in wash L% cond. after 1st -0.7 -7.8 0.3 0 -0.7 wash 20/65 cond. after the 5th 0.3 -10.8 -3.1 -0.7 -2 wash 20/65 line wash test at 40 ° C. drying after each wash shrinkage in wash C% cond. after 1st 3.6 -1.9 -1 -2 -2.6 washing 20/65 cond. after 5th 2.3 -4.1 -1.7 -3.7 0 washing 20/65 spirality - over 50 cm after 1st washing 0 20 13 0 0 mm after 5th washing 0 23 18 0 0 mm

Table 2 - Mixtures of single shirts Sample Sample Comparative sample 10 Comparative sample 12 11 13 Single shirt Single shirt Single shirt Single shirt Type of fabric weight weight medium medium weight heavy heavy weight single shirt single shirt single shirt single code design dark blue red melange blue Filament 90% Filament 50% 92% material ratio 85% polyamide lyocell lyocell polyamide fabric 15% elastane / 10% elastane / 50% polyester 8% elastane Filament filament lyocel dtex40f30 bright lyocell dtex80f60 two layers 85 % shiny Filament 92% twisted polyamide material mixed with Z-twisted polyester + S- 15% spandex yarn / 8% twisted spandex textured with TPM 1200 designed plated with dtex75f36 spandex 22 dtex open width finish open width dyed only dyed special dyed filament lyocell two layers 100% 4 threads: 60% polyester twisted: polyamide 100% opaque polyester 1 thread: opaque opaque- 1 , 68 dtex Filament 100% 1,14 dtex filament 40% polyester lyocell (optical n = 20) 1 thread: opaque Material analysis elastane count Filament 1,06 dtex fused filament 100% lyocell (optical n = 20) single: 1 , 29 dtex (100% lycra filament count S-twisted opaque 22 dtex elastane filament 1 thread: - single: 1.44 fused (fixed Filament 100% filament) dtex towards the lyocell count point)

Sample Sample Sample 10 comparative Sample 12 comparative 11 13 filament (100% single lycra: 1.29 shiny dtex 22 Z-twisted dtex- filament filament) in elastane-plated machine (100% opaque lycra 22 dtex - filament)

2-strata yarn construction: twisted with mixed TPM 1200 thread count 40 x 2 44 476 100 dtex thread count 40 80 single dtex number of S-twisted: 60 41 57 84 Z-twisted filaments: 60 twisted thread TPM 1200 _ _ _ weight g / m² 101 122 227 200 washing test at 40 ° C delicate. drum drying after each wash shrinkage in wash L% cond. after 1st -1.9 -3.3 -1.9 -1.3 wash 20/65 cond. after the 5th -2.4 -3.6 -5.6 -1.7 wash 20/65 shrinkage in wash C% cond. after 1st 1.8 -0.7 0 -0.3 wash 20/65 cond. after the 5th 1.4 -0.3 -0.7 0 wash 20/65 spirality - over 50 cm after the 1st wash 19 0 mm after the 5th wash 25 0 mm surface appearance after hair wash cycles

Sample Sample Sample 10 comparative Sample 12 comparative 11 13 degree after the 1st 3 5 degree wash after the 5th 3.5 4.5 wash ball formation after the 1st 3.5 5 degree wash after the 5th 2.5 4.5 wash grade of fiber seam grade after 1st 2.5 4.5 grade wash after 5th 2 2.5 wash yarn strength original cN / tex 15.6 30.9 22.9 33.5 after 1st wash 17 , 6 19.7 24.9 31.9 after the 5th wash 16 22.1 24.7 28.2 yarn elongation% original 2.7 23.9 24.3 26.7 after the 1st wash 3.1 17 , 1 30.5 23.3 after the 5th wash 3.1 19.1 29.6 19.4 original Martindale abrasion test cycles - sample 1875> 100000 100000 41250 undestroyed cycles for 2375> 100000> 100000 46250 formation of holes after 1st wash cycles - sample 1875> 100000 100000 57500 undestroyed cycles for 2375> 100000> 100000 67500 hole formation Martindale ball formation test original degree after 1000 3.5 5 4 4.5 degree cycles after 2000 4 4.5 5 4.5 degree cycles after 5000 4 4.5 5 4.5 cycles

Sample Sample Comparative sample 10 Comparative sample 12 13 13 after 1st degree wash after 1000 4.5 5 4 5 degree cycles after 2000 4 5 5 5 degree cycles after 5000 3.5 5 5 4.5 cycles

Table 3 - Interconnected fabrics Sample 14 Sample 15 Sample 16 Sample 17 Interconnected Interconnected Interconnected Interconnected Fabric type heavy weight medium weight medium weight heavy weight Filament Filament Filament 60% lyocell ratio of tissue material 50% lyocell 50% lyocell 90% lyocell / 40% PA / / 50% PES / 50% PES / 10% EL 10% EL Lyocell Lyocell Filament Filament Lyocell Lyocell Filament 80f60 dtex 80f60 Lyocell material dtex 150dtex bright shiny 50dtex f30 f90 bright 0 TPM 0 TPM bright 0 Mixed TPM mixed 0 TPM with PES with PES open width dyed open width dyed open width special finish only dyed dyed lyocell filament filament dyed lyocell dyed system 2: 2: system 2 2 threads: system 2 folds - Filament folds - core-yarn: mixed: 100% lyocell mixed: Filament 1 yarn: 1-thread count: 100% lyocell Filament filament 100% single lyocell count: 1.64 100% l iocel dtex opaque filament single count: 2 count yarn Construction count: 1.79 dtex filament 100% single filament: 1.37 with single core: 1.35 polyamide 6.6 dtex opaque dtex elastane 1 thread: (100 % lycra 1 yarn: 100% opaque filament 100% polyester core 22 dtex - elastane polyester: filament filament) 100% opaque opaque lycra opaque 33 dtex filament construction filament mixed lyocell mixed lyocell 0 TPM 0 TPM count of dtex thread 161 270 192 65

Sample 14 Sample 15 Sample 16 Sample 17 number of filaments 90 60 60 30 Twisted filament TPM 0 0 0 0 weight g / m² 347 190 173 189 washing test at 40 ° C delicate. drum drying after each wash. shrinkage in washing L% cond. after the 1st wash 1 -1 -3.3 -6.9 20/65 cond. after 5th wash 0 -1.3 -5 -6.6 20/65 shrinkage in wash C% cond. after the 1st wash -5.5 -0.3 -1 1 20/65 cond. after 5th wash -6 0.3 -1 2 20/65 surface appearance after wash cycles original hairiness 3 3 degree after 1st 4 3 3 3 degree wash after 5th 3.5 3 3 3 wash original pellet formation 3 3 degree after 1st 4 3.5 3 3 degree wash after 5th 3.5 3.5 2.5 3.5 original fiber splice wash 2 3 degree after 1st 4.5 2 2 2.5 degree wash after the 5th 3.5 2 2 1.5 washing resistance of the original cN / tex yarn 17.1 22.8 16.3 9.7 after the 1st washing 21.2 22.2 15.9 13.6 after the 5th washing 8.6 21.9 13.9 11.3 yarn elongation% original 7.6 24.3 15.8 4.6 after the first wash 9.6 23.4 15 5.1

Sample 14 Sample 15 Sample 16 Sample 17 after the 5th wash 7.3 21.8 14.2 4.6 Air permeability l / m² / s 569 2370 1435 485 original Martindale abrasion test cycles - sample no> 100000> 100000 50000 12000 * destroyed formation cycles> 100000> 100000 55000 14000 * of holes after the 1st wash cycles - sample no> 100000> 100000 47500 14000 * destroyed formation cycles> 100000> 100000 52500 14000 * of holes for ball formation test Martindale original grade after 1000 cycles 4,5 3,5 4,5 5 grade after 2000 cycles 3,5 3 4 5 grade after 5000 cycles 2 3 3,5 5 after the 1st degree wash after 1000 cycles 4,5 4,5 4.5 5 degree after 2000 cycles 3.5 4 4 4.5 degree after 5000 cycles 2 3.5 4 5

Table 4 - Interconnected, fibrillation effect Sample 18 Sample 19 Sample 20 Sample 21 Interconnected Interconnected Interconnected Fabric type heavy weight heavy weight heavy weight heavy weight Filament Filament Filament Filament material ratio 90% lyocell / 90% lyocell / 90% lyocell / 90% lyocell / fabric 10% EL1 10% EL 10% EL 10% EL filament filament filament 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell dtex 50f30 dtex 50f30 dtex 50f30 dtex 50f30 bright shiny bright shiny mixed mixed mixed mixed mixed mixed mixed mixed + elastane + elastane + elastane + elastane 22 dtex 22 dtex 22 dtex 22 dtex open width Finishing Polishing Special finish skin dyed with mechanical peach resin

1 EL: Elastane core-yarn: core-yarn: core-yarn: core-yarn: Filament Filament Filament 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell filament count count filament count filament single filament: single: single: single: Yarn construction 1.79 dtex 1.79 dtex 1.79 dtex 1.79 dtex core core core core core core core core core core core core core core core core core core core core (100% lycra (100% lycra ( 100% lycra (100% opaque opaque opaque opaque opaque 22 dtex - 22 dtex - 22 dtex - 22 dtex - filament) filament) filament) mixed yarn construction mixed mixed mixed yarn count dtex 65 65 65 65 number of filaments 30 30 30 30 Twisted filament TPM 0 0 0 0 weight g / m² 204 204 204 204 washing test at 40 ° C delicate. drum drying after each wash shrinkage in wash L% cond. after 1st -6.3 -5.4 -5.8 -6.8 wash 20/65 cond. after 5th -6.3 -5.3 -5.7 -6.4 wash 20/65 shrinkage in wash C% cond. after 1st 1.6 1.4 1.5 1.7 wash 20/65 cond. after 5th 1.6 1.4 1.5 1.7 washing 20/65 surface appearance after washing cycles Pilosity Original grade after 1st 3 3.5 4 3 washing degree after 5th 4 3 3.5 4 washing dot formation original grade after 1st 3.5 3.5 4 3.5 grade wash after 5th 4.5 3 3 3.5 fiber splice wash Original grade after 1st 2 4 5 2 grade wash after 5th 1 , 5 3,5 4,5 1,5 washing

Claims (15)

1. Knitted fabric made with at least one thread, characterized by the fact that it contains or consists of lyocell filaments. 2. Knitted fabric, according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the yarn contains at least 10% of lyocell filaments. 3. Knitted fabric, according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by the fact that the yarn has at least 2000 TPM. Mesh fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the combined shrinkage of the mesh fabric after one wash and / or after five washes is less than 10%. 5. Knitted fabric according to claim 4, characterized by the fact that the combined shrinkage of the knitted fabric after one wash and / or after five washes is less than 5%. Mesh fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized by the fact that the spiral greater than 50 cm is less than 20 mm after one wash and / or less than 25 mm after five washes. Mesh fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the hairiness of the mesh fabric is not less than 3 in the original state and / or after washing. Mesh fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized by the fact that the mesh fabric has a grade of not less than 4 in a Martindale ball formation test after 1000 and / or 2000 cycles and / or not less than 3.5 after 5000 cycles in the original state and / or after five washes. Mesh fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the mesh fabric has a rating of at least 40,000 cycles without destruction and / or hole formation in a Martindale abrasion test. Mesh fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the fabric is dyed with at least one of the reactive, tub, direct or sulfur dyes. 11. Mesh fabric according to claim 10, characterized by the fact that the dye used is at least one of a bifunctional and multifunctional dye, and in which the cellulose in the thread is cross-linked. Mesh fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the fabric has a resin finish. 13. Knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the fabric is a fabric with a peach touch. 14. Textile article, such as clothing, characterized by the fact that it contains a knitted fabric as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13. 15. Use of a thread, characterized by the fact that it contains or consists of lyocell filaments in a mesh fabric.