JPH11315471A - Production of knitted fabric - Google Patents
Production of knitted fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPH11315471A JPH11315471A JP10118379A JP11837998A JPH11315471A JP H11315471 A JPH11315471 A JP H11315471A JP 10118379 A JP10118379 A JP 10118379A JP 11837998 A JP11837998 A JP 11837998A JP H11315471 A JPH11315471 A JP H11315471A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- knitted fabric
- filaments
- core
- fiber
- present
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Abstract
Description
【0001】[0001]
【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は,衣料に使用される
肌触りがよく,強力,収縮率等の物性に優れた編地の製
造方法に関するものである。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric used for clothing, which has a good touch, and has excellent properties such as strength and shrinkage.
【0002】[0002]
【従来の技術】従来より,綿やポリノジック等のセルロ
ース系繊維は,その肌触りのよさ,吸湿性で衣料用途に
多く使用されてきた。しかし,近年,ファッションの多
様化により,これらセルロース系繊維の使用方法も多様
化してきた。その一例は,ポリノジックや溶剤紡糸リヨ
セルを使用し,ピーチスキン調の布帛を得るべくセルロ
ース系繊維の単糸をさらに割繊するフィブリル加工の方
法である。しかし,これらのフィブリル加工の方法に
は,編地の破裂強力を低下させ,実用に適さなくなった
り,フィブリル加工は長時間を要し,生産性が悪い,安
定性に欠ける等の欠点を有している。この欠点を解決す
るために,使用番手を太くしたり,編度目を詰めたりす
る方法が実施されている。2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, cellulosic fibers such as cotton and polynosic have been widely used for clothing because of their good touch and hygroscopicity. However, in recent years, the use of these cellulosic fibers has been diversified with the diversification of fashion. One example is a fibril processing method using polynosic or solvent-spun lyocell and further splitting a single cellulosic fiber to obtain a peach skin-like fabric. However, these methods of fibril processing have disadvantages such as lowering the bursting strength of the knitted fabric, making it unsuitable for practical use, fibril processing requires a long time, poor productivity, and lack of stability. ing. In order to solve this drawback, a method of increasing the use number or reducing the stitch has been implemented.
【0003】[0003]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】上記のような従来法で
は,比較的薄い軽量の編地では,安定して衣料用のピー
チスキン調の布帛を得ることができないという問題点が
あった。本発明は,この問題を解決し,安定して衣料用
のピーチスキン調の編地を提供することを目的とするも
のである。However, the conventional method as described above has a problem that a peach skin tone fabric for clothing cannot be stably obtained with a relatively thin and lightweight knitted fabric. An object of the present invention is to solve this problem and stably provide a peach skin-like knitted fabric for clothing.
【0004】[0004]
【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者らは,このよう
な課題を解決するために鋭意検討の結果,安定してピー
チスキン調の編地を得るためには,使用するセルロース
繊維がしっかりと固定し,外力に対して動かないことが
重要であるという事実を見出し,本発明に到達した。す
なわち,本発明は,セルロース系繊維が芯部に,合成繊
維2本が鞘部になるようにダブルカバリングした糸条を
用いて編地を編成し,続く染色加工工程で酵素処理,フ
ィブリル加工を施すことを特徴とする編地の製造方法を
要旨とするものである。Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to solve such problems, and as a result, in order to stably obtain a peach skin-like knitted fabric, the cellulose fibers to be used must be firmly used. And found that it is important not to move against external force, and arrived at the present invention. That is, in the present invention, a knitted fabric is knitted using a double-covered yarn such that a cellulosic fiber is used as a core and two synthetic fibers are used as a sheath, and enzymatic treatment and fibril processing are performed in a subsequent dyeing process. The gist of the present invention is a method for producing a knitted fabric, which is characterized by being applied.
【0005】[0005]
【発明の実施の形態】以下,本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明のセルロース系繊維とは,ポリノジック,リヨセ
ルが主な対象であり,綿,通常のビスコースレーヨン
は,フィブリル化しないので本発明からは除外する。ま
た,合成繊維は,ポリエステル,ナイロンが主な対象で
あり,ダブルカバーには,通常10〜30d/fのモノ
フィラメント糸が使用されるが,編地の用途,求める風
合により選択して使用すればよい。ダブルカバー糸と
は,通常,芯糸とそれに相反する撚方向に2本の糸をカ
バリングする方法で生産される糸である。特徴は,芯糸
の補強と撚による風合,表面効果である。撚数は,30
0〜1000t/mが通常の範囲であり,これ以下では
効果が発揮されず,これ以上では効果が変わらない。本
発明でいう編地とは,丸編(シングルジャージィ,ダブ
ルジャージィ)と経編のすべてを含むものである。DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail.
The cellulosic fibers of the present invention are mainly polynosic and lyocell, and cotton and ordinary viscose rayon are excluded from the present invention because they do not fibrillate. Polyester and nylon are mainly used as synthetic fibers, and a monofilament yarn of 10 to 30 d / f is usually used for a double cover. I just need. The double cover yarn is a yarn usually produced by a method of covering a core yarn and two yarns in opposite twist directions. The features are the feeling and surface effect by reinforcing and twisting the core yarn. Twist number is 30
The normal range is from 0 to 1000 t / m. Below this, the effect is not exhibited, and above this, the effect remains unchanged. The knitted fabric referred to in the present invention includes both circular knitting (single jersey and double jersey) and warp knitting.
【0006】次に,染色加工工程を説明する。本発明の
染色仕上げの標準的工程は,「開反」→「晒し」→「酵
素加工」→「フィブリル化加工」→「染色」→「仕上げ
セット」工程である。セルロース系繊維は,塩素や過酸
化水素を使用する「晒し」工程によって精練,漂白され
る。また,本発明でいうポリノジック繊維や溶剤紡糸セ
ルロース(リヨセル)では,編地の表面毛羽をカットす
るために,セルラーゼ等での酵素処理加工を実施する。
さらに,これらのポリノジック繊維や溶剤紡糸セルロー
ス(リヨセル)では,単糸を割繊(フィブリル化)加工
することにより,単糸をより極細にし,タッチをピーチ
スキン調にする方法を実施する。上記染色仕上げ工程で
は,使用されたセルロース系繊維の強力は低下する。そ
の一例は,実施例1の条件でポリノジック繊維60/−
を「晒し」「酵素加工」「フィブリル化加工」工程後,
表1のごとく低下した。Next, the dyeing process will be described. The standard steps of dyeing and finishing in the present invention are “opening” → “bleaching” → “enzyme processing” → “fibrillation processing” → “dyeing” → “finishing set”. Cellulosic fibers are scoured and bleached in an "exposing" process using chlorine and hydrogen peroxide. Further, in the case of polynosic fiber or solvent-spun cellulose (lyocell) referred to in the present invention, an enzymatic treatment with cellulase or the like is carried out in order to cut the fluff on the surface of the knitted fabric.
Furthermore, in these polynosic fibers and solvent-spun cellulose (lyocell), a method of splitting (fibrillating) a single yarn to make the single yarn finer and make the touch a peach skin tone is performed. In the above dyeing and finishing step, the strength of the used cellulosic fiber decreases. One example is polynosic fiber 60 /-under the conditions of Example 1.
After the “exposed”, “enzyme processing” and “fibrillation processing” processes,
It decreased as shown in Table 1.
【0007】[0007]
【表1】 [Table 1]
【0008】糸の強力低下は,編地ではその破裂強力低
下に連動し,極端な低下は,衣料として実用に適さない
範囲までの低下も考えられる。特に薄地の編地では,そ
の現象が起こりやすい。破裂強力の実用化の限度は,使
用する用途によっても異なるが,3.5kgf/cm2 {P
a}程度が目安であろう。もう一方の使用糸である合成
繊維は,これら「晒し」「酵素加工」「フィブリル化加
工」の工程後での強力低下は,上記表1に示すごとく極
めて少ない。[0008] The drop in the strength of the yarn is linked to the drop in the burst strength of the knitted fabric, and the extreme drop may be reduced to a range that is not practical for clothing. In particular, the phenomenon is likely to occur in a thin knitted fabric. The limit of the practical use of burst strength depends on the intended use, but is 3.5 kgf / cm 2 {P
A degree is a guideline. As shown in Table 1 above, the synthetic fiber used as the other yarn has a very small decrease in strength after the steps of "exposing", "enzyme processing" and "fibrillation processing".
【0009】[0009]
【作用】本発明においては,合成繊維でセルロース系繊
維をダブルカバーすることにより,染色工程での外力で
編地のセルロース系繊維が固定され,外力がセルロース
系繊維の固定部に集中し,フィブリル化を促進させる役
目を果たす。In the present invention, by double-covering the cellulosic fibers with synthetic fibers, the cellulosic fibers of the knitted fabric are fixed by the external force in the dyeing process, and the external force is concentrated on the fixing portion of the cellulosic fibers, and the fibril is fixed. Plays the role of promoting
【0010】[0010]
【実施例】編地の破裂強力の測定は,JIS L−10
18にて評価した。編地の風合はハンドリングによる判
定(◎:良好,×:不良),フィブリル化の判定は目視
判定(◎:良好,×:不良)とした。EXAMPLE The measurement of the bursting strength of a knitted fabric was performed according to JIS L-10.
18 was evaluated. The feeling of the knitted fabric was determined by handling (◎: good, ×: poor), and the determination of fibrillation was visually determined (◎: good, ×: poor).
【0011】実施例1 ダブルカバー糸の芯にセルロース系繊維の溶剤紡糸リヨ
セル60/−を,鞘部の合成繊維にポリエステル20d
/1fSD糸を使用し,撚回数600t/mで使用糸を
作成した。編機は,ダブルジャージィ機24G/G×3
3″釜径を使用し,組織は,図1のポンチにて250g
/m目付の編地を編成した。次に,この生機を「開反」
→「晒し」→「酵素加工」→「フィブリル化加工」→
「染色」→「仕上げセット」工程にて仕上げた。その工
程の条件は,「晒し」は過酸化水素2g/リットル×4
0℃×15分,「酵素加工」は液流染色機で酵素セルラ
ーゼ1.2%owf ×50℃×60分,「フィブリル化加
工」はタンブラー機で50℃×75分,「染色」は液流
染色機で分散染料と直接染料を使用し,125℃×12
0分,「仕上げセット」はテンターで160℃×30秒
である。得られた編地は,145cm幅×225g/mで
あった。Example 1 A solvent-spun lyocell 60 /-of cellulosic fiber was used as the core of the double cover yarn, and polyester 20d was used as the synthetic fiber of the sheath.
/ 1fSD yarn was used, and the used yarn was prepared at a twist number of 600 t / m. The knitting machine is a double jersey machine 24G / G × 3
Use a 3 "pot diameter, and the tissue is 250g with the punch of Fig. 1.
/ M knitted fabric was knitted. Next, this greige is called “opening”
→ "Bleaching" → "Enzyme processing" → "Fibrillation processing" →
Finished in “Dyeing” → “Finishing set” process. The conditions of the process are as follows: "Bleaching" is hydrogen peroxide 2 g / liter x 4
0 ° C x 15 minutes, "Enzyme processing" is 1.2% owf of enzyme cellulase with a liquid flow dyeing machine x 50 ° C x 60 minutes, "Fibrillation processing" is 50 ° C x 75 minutes with a tumbler machine, and "Staining" is liquid Using disperse dye and direct dye in flow dyeing machine, 125 ° C × 12
0 minutes, "Finishing set" is 160 ° C. × 30 seconds with a tenter. The obtained knitted fabric was 145 cm wide × 225 g / m.
【0012】比較例1 他の条件は同一で,ダブルカバーの代わりに,それに相
当する太さのリヨセル40/−にて編成,加工し,比較
例1とした。Comparative Example 1 The other conditions were the same, and instead of the double cover, knitting and processing were performed using a lyocell 40 /-having a thickness corresponding to that of Comparative Example 1.
【0013】実施例1,比較例1の「生機」→「開反」
→「晒し」→「酵素加工」→「フィブリル化加工」→
「染色」→「仕上げセット」工程後の破裂強力の測定結
果を表2に示すが,明らかに実施例1の破裂強力は比較
例1のそれより高く,本発明の効果が実証された。"Grawling machine" of Example 1 and Comparative example 1 → "Opening"
→ "Bleaching" → "Enzyme processing" → "Fibrillation processing" →
Table 2 shows the measurement results of the burst strength after the “dyeing” → “finishing set” process. The burst strength of Example 1 was clearly higher than that of Comparative Example 1, and the effect of the present invention was demonstrated.
【0014】[0014]
【表2】 また,表3に示すごとく,その風合は,実施例はソフト
感があり,外観は,実施例はフィブリルがよく発生して
おり,比較例は発生せず,本発明の効果が実証された。[Table 2] Further, as shown in Table 3, the hand feeling was soft in the examples and the fibrils were frequently generated in the examples, and the comparative examples did not occur, and the effect of the present invention was proved. .
【0015】[0015]
【表3】 [Table 3]
【0016】[0016]
【発明の効果】本発明によれば,比較的薄地の編地でも
実用に耐える破裂強力を有し,フィブリルがよく発生し
た編地を生産することができる。According to the present invention, it is possible to produce a knitted fabric having a bursting strength that can withstand practical use even with a relatively thin knitted fabric and in which fibrils are frequently generated.
【図1】実施例1および比較例1にて編地を編成する際
に用いる編組織図である。FIG. 1 is a knitting structure diagram used when knitting a knitted fabric in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.
───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.6 識別記号 FI D06P 3/82 D06P 3/82 A D06M 9/12 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. 6 Identification code FI D06P 3/82 D06P 3/82 A D06M 9/12
Claims (1)
本が鞘部になるようにダブルカバリングした糸条を用い
て編地を編成し,続く染色加工工程で酵素処理,フィブ
リル加工を施すことを特徴とする編地の製造方法。A cellulosic fiber is provided on a core portion of a synthetic fiber.
A method for producing a knitted fabric, comprising knitting a knitted fabric using a double-covered yarn so that a book becomes a sheath portion, and subjecting the knitted fabric to an enzymatic treatment and a fibril processing in a subsequent dyeing process.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP10118379A JPH11315471A (en) | 1998-04-28 | 1998-04-28 | Production of knitted fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP10118379A JPH11315471A (en) | 1998-04-28 | 1998-04-28 | Production of knitted fabric |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JPH11315471A true JPH11315471A (en) | 1999-11-16 |
Family
ID=14735252
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP10118379A Pending JPH11315471A (en) | 1998-04-28 | 1998-04-28 | Production of knitted fabric |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JPH11315471A (en) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2020536182A (en) * | 2017-10-06 | 2020-12-10 | レンチング アクチエンゲゼルシャフト | Knit knit continuous filament lyocell cloth |
-
1998
- 1998-04-28 JP JP10118379A patent/JPH11315471A/en active Pending
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2020536182A (en) * | 2017-10-06 | 2020-12-10 | レンチング アクチエンゲゼルシャフト | Knit knit continuous filament lyocell cloth |
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